Electric drill IE-1035. E-1 U2 is designed for drilling holes with a diameter of 3 to 16 mm in durable materials such as metal, concrete or asphalt. Based on this electric drill, a model with an internal cone was developed, as well as a tool with a more powerful gearbox and the ability to reverse drilling.
Drill IE-1035. E-1 U2 and its modifications are manufactured at the Rostov Power Tools Plant. It consists of an electrical part, reliably protected by a housing made of shockproof plastic, and a two-stage metal gearbox. Let's take a closer look at the design of a power tool.
Gearbox device
The gear housing is made entirely of of stainless steel 20 mm thick. Inside the gearbox there are two metal gears that ensure rotation of the working element and the chuck. The gearbox is lubricated at the factory; additional lubrication of the gears will not be required during the 5-year warranty period.
Gearbox of the modified drill “IE-1035. E-2 U2" - more complex. It is equipped with an internal cone designed to operate the drill without a chuck. Drills with a conical shank from 3 to 16 mm are installed in the inner cone. You can also install a nozzle for mixing concrete in the cone of this modification. There are special holes on the side walls of the gearbox. They serve to make it more convenient to remove drills.
Electrical structure
Inside the plastic case there is a starter and a rotor with copper winding. The starter is placed in plastic casing, which protects it from impacts during operation. The rotor takes on the main load. Rotor modification IE-1035. E-3 U2 has a reverse drilling function. The gearbox performs a shock-absorbing function and softens the vibrations of the drill during operation.
On the rear handle of the drill there is a motor start button, which responds to pressing force. The rotation speed can be adjusted using a switch located above the start button.
Specifications
The drill is equipped with a 1 kW motor, which makes the tool powerful enough to drill 50 mm thick metal beams. The drill is also equipped mechanical protection from breakdowns. The maximum drilling diameter for metal is 13 mm, for wood – 16 mm. There is a button on the side panel of the electric drill permanent job. Thanks to the compact size of the gearbox, the drill can be installed on a work stand.
We decided to devote this article to one of the Russian electric drills, or rather the IE-1035 electric drill produced in Rostov.
This drill is not professional tool, however, it is intended for use under fairly heavy loads during construction and repairs.
The drill has a durable metal body. Thanks to this, it is not afraid of falls, although it is much heavier than imported drills of similar power. All components used in this drill are made in Russia.
The electric drill is equipped with a metal three-jaw chuck PS-16. By the way, you cannot insert a drill larger than 14 mm into an imported drill; such cartridges are simply not used on them.
The standard chuck on most electric drills has a maximum diameter of 13mm. In principle, there is no point in equipping electric drills with cartridges for drills of larger diameter. The engine simply cannot cope with the task of turning the drill in durable material- for example in a steel billet.
Like most modern electric drills, the IE-1035 is also equipped with an additional handle. This element is usually simply irreplaceable when drilling with thick drill bits. The additional handle, unlike most other similar tools, is installed not on the body neck in front of the chuck, but directly into the body. The handle is screwed in like the handle in an angle grinder.
On the one hand, it is reliable, on the other hand, you cannot change the position of the handle by turning it, for example, 20 degrees. The position is strictly fixed.
As a minus, it is worth noting that this model of electric drill does not have a reverse, so you need to drill carefully, especially metal. If the drill gets stuck, you will have to struggle to free it. Yes and taking into account high power engine, if you do not hold the drill in your hands, you may be injured.
At the same time, the absence of some functions can significantly reduce the price of a drill, which is why the demand for it remains quite high. This tool is often purchased by people involved in various construction work their main source of income is shabatniks. The advantage of this is that the tool has a durable body, a low price, is quite reliable and has the power needed.
As a rule, these people don’t bother with instrument repair - they just work until it completely fails. During this time, the tool pays for itself several times over, although if it is necessary to repair this drill, it is much easier than imported ones. There are always enough spare parts for the IE-1035 drill in specialized stores, and in the markets too.
Externally, the drill is not very beautiful modern design, on the other hand, you shouldn’t admire her. The body is made in black and silver. Distinctive feature This electric drill is the main handle. It is not a pistol pistol, but a double pistol. If you drill holes in the floor, you can hold on to it with both hands. By the way, due to the heavy weight, drilling walls and ceilings with this drill is not very convenient - your hands get tired quickly.
Characteristics of electric drill IE-1035:
Chuck size: 16mm
Motor power: 600W
Speed: from 0 to 600 rpm. in a minute
Voltage: 220 V
Package weight: 4 kg
Impact drilling: yes
Reverse function: no
Production: Russia
In 1994, my father purchased an IE-1505E impact drill: power 320 watts, 10 mm chuck, speed controller (0-960 rpm), weight 1.75 kg.
In my opinion - a little strange, in design and quality!
Because he practically didn’t use it, that’s why it’s still alive.
Although at the very beginning, still at warranty period– it broke down and... I don’t remember the details, but when they repaired it, they also replaced part of the body.
And then I found a diagram of an IE 1505e drill on the Internet.
Therefore, part of the body turned blue...
Photo of drill IE 1505e.
Review of drill Ie 1505e.
From the very beginning, the idea of an impact drill does not seem entirely successful to me. I prefer a special tool sharpened for one of the operations!
Because I worked in construction for 10 years. Then take my word for it, an impact drill is not something I will buy.
As for the Ie 1505e drill, when you drill with the impact mechanism turned off, an incomprehensible movement occurs when removing the drill. I can’t even describe it more precisely - in one word
When my dad passed away, I inherited the drill. Therefore, he decided that she had no place in the village and took her to the city (especially since the village was sold to the enemy in the past).
If you are involved in various construction projects, then you know that there is often a need for several drills.
You can use one drill, put in a small drill, drill, take out the small drill, put in a large one, chamfer, pull out big drill, put the nozzle on, tightened the self-tapping screw or screw, pulled out the nozzle, put in a small drill... And again, again.
How many body movements do you need to make!!? And how much time do you need to spend on this!!!?
Is this appropriate when there is one such hole, but what if you have 100 or more such operations? Therefore, I decided that I would use it.
How dad used it, but the cartridge was missing one of the three sponges. So I went and bought a new chuck for this drill. It turned out that the cartridge is on a tricky thread. I searched the whole city, and by some miracle I found a cartridge with such a thread!
And besides, the size for the drills in the old chuck was small.
Keywords drill, ie, 1505e. , Soviet, Soviet, 1505e.v, 1994, ohm, father, acquired, himself, shock, 1505e, power, 320, watt, 10, millimeter, cartridge, regulator, revolutions, 960, rev. , min. , weight, 1 , 75 Soviet, photograph, drills, review,When the file was created - 6.5.2014
date last change file 05/06/2019
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The drill is considered one of the most popular tools for home craftsmen and is used for many types of work. Due to intensive use, parts of the tool can break, which disables the device. Don't rush in service center: It’s quite possible to repair a drill yourself and save a lot of money.
If you know the structure of the drill and the principle of operation of the tool, then do-it-yourself repair products will not bother you.
Regardless of the model or manufacturer, all of these power tools consist of a typical set of basic components.
- Network cable. Many users do not pay due attention to the cord connecting the tool to the network, but according to statistics, 50% of malfunctions of electrical products occur because of it. The cord breaks easily during operation; its frequent break points are the entrance to the device handle and the place where the contacts are soldered on the start button. The defect often occurs due to the mobility of the entire button block.
- Capacitor. This small detail rectangular shape located in the handle of the drill and is designed to suppress interference from sparking.
- Start button. One of the most weak points- if problems arise in the electrical part of the product, it is tested immediately after the cable.
- Electric motor stator. In the event of a short circuit, a breakdown of the winding may occur - a very unpleasant case, the entire winding must be rewinded. Inside is a rotor or armature.
- Support bearing.
- Location nodes motor brushes. The brushes are made of durable graphite and are washable long service life, they may be to blame for the malfunction of the electrical part of the product - during normal operation, each of them sparks. Frequent problems are a wad of dust between the brush body and the rotor.
- Collector. If its contacts are clean, then the rotor rotates smoothly.
- Product body.
- Fan. It is designed to constantly cool the electric drill motor.
- Mode switch.
- Gearbox. Always present in any model, since the cartridge does not fit directly onto the rotor axis.
- The largest gear in the gearbox. Frequent malfunctions: dust and foreign particles get into the lubricant, because of this it loses its properties, and the gearbox quickly wears out and needs to be replaced.
- Two chuck bearings. They bear the heaviest load, so they require periodic inspection and maintenance- removal, washing, replacement of lubricant.
- The axis on which the cartridge is mounted. In hammer drill models, it has a return spring.
- Product cartridge. Its collet mechanism for clamping a drill or various attachments can be of a quick-release type or clamped with a special key.
Any repair of a drill with your own hands must begin with visual inspection all the details. The principle here is simple - from simple to complex, i.e. first we check the cord, wiring, contacts, various fasteners, then we begin to test the blocks and the engine. Before complete disassembly the product does not always arrive, but in practice one must be prepared for such a development of events. The instruction manual will help you disassemble a specific model.
Common breakdowns
Regardless of the build quality and manufacturer, the following malfunctions occur quite often:
- the electric motor fails due to a broken armature or stator;
- extreme wear of brushes;
- bearing problems;
- The speed control button does not work;
- the contacts of the start button oxidize or burn out;
- failure of the chuck clamping the drill due to wear of the jaws.
If you decide to make repairs electric drill yourself, you first need to diagnose and find the fault. It is rarely possible to repair a faulty part on your own; as a rule, it is simply replaced with a new one.
Electrical problems
Before disassembling the drill, you should make sure that it is unplugged. Any disassembly begins with removing the fasteners. Then we unscrew the screws and screws, remove the upper part of the product - all the components remain in the lower part. Electrical diagram of a drill It’s quite simple - there’s no need to separately describe all the elements, everything is already intuitive.
Naturally, models with electronic adjustments it is much more complicated, but it is unlikely that you will be able to repair a drill with such components on your own; it is better to entrust this to specialists from the service center.
Connection cord
When the power goes out, you just need to change the position of the product - the reason lies in the cable, most likely one of the wires broke. You need to unplug the drill and check it with a multimeter cable. Can be used simplest option- light bulb and battery in one circuit.
Attention! Pulling the cord when the drill is plugged in is strictly prohibited, in order to avoid short circuit- you will have to rewind the motor winding.
After checking, you can bend it however you like to find the break point, then part of the cable is cut off, the wires are stripped and new contacts are created for connection. When a break occurs in the middle of the cable, it must be completely replaced with a new one. True, thrifty users prefer to connect broken wires by soldering, followed by reliable insulation of the repair site, but there is no longer complete trust in such a wire.
Power button
This item has a very simple design, but if a problem occurs it will prevent the drill from turning on. Its operation is simple: the key slides in a special block and closes the contacts with a pusher finger. From long-term use inside the block dust is gathering, which prevents the button from moving and blocks it, preventing it from closing the contact circuit. The defect can be eliminated simply by opening it and removing dust with a brush.
Important! Never try to lubricate the sliding surfaces of the button - dust mixes with the lubricant and wear occurs, as a result of which the entire unit must be replaced.
To repair the drill button, you need to remove the side wall and check the integrity of the contacts. When carbon deposits have formed, clean the contact with fine sandpaper. If the contact burns, we replace the entire unit.
Rotor brushes
Not all users know that power from the mains is transmitted to the rotor using brushes made of graphite - when normal operation There is constant sparking between them and the rotor. There are times when a wad of dust has accumulated between the armature and the brush, and since dust is a dielectric, the drill will not work until we remove the dust and restore contact.
During operation, the brushes gradually become smaller because their lower part is worn out. They need to be inspected and replaced periodically - this is not difficult to do, you just need to have a new set in stock.
When you notice strong sparking in the area of the brushes, and you have changed them recently, this may happen due to problems with the rotor or its collector.
Checking the rotor
For a thorough check, carefully remove the rotor from the stator. The contacts may be charred or have scale - you need to clean them with sandpaper strictly in the direction of rotation. Reason appearance of scale May be long work at maximum speed. How to check the rotor for serviceability? Test the adjacent lamellas with a multimeter - their resistance should be identical.
Do not forget check the winding- whether there was a short circuit with the magnetic circuit housing. If a breakdown is detected, the faulty winding is rewound independently or taken to a service center.
Drill stator
Visual inspection must be done periodically: in case of overheating, when the product was working with maximum loads, could melt protective varnish and happen turn-to-turn short circuit. In this case, the winding will burn out, and the electric motor is unsuitable for further operation. The check is done in the same way as in the case of the rotor - we check the windings using a multimeter. If a breakdown is detected, the stator winding must be rewinded.
Leading manufacturers impact drills Special attention pay attention to the protection of winding wires, because their products operate in a special mode.
Mechanical damage
Why is the device still not functioning if you have checked everything and ruled out any breakdowns? electrical diagram drills? There can be only one answer - the non-working condition of the product arose due to the presence of mechanical faults.
- Bearings don't work. Dust gets into the lubricant due to a breakthrough in the oil seal, so they wear out quickly and may at some point jam. It's easy to fix: wash the bearing in kerosene, change the seals, fill in new grease, better special staff for products with high rotation speeds.
- Broken gearbox- a very serious breakdown, spare gears are needed, or the entire module will have to be replaced. You only need to install the same model. If the drill is a common modification, then buying spare parts for it in stores is not a problem.
- Experts consider another of the most difficult malfunctions damage to cartridge parts.
During operation, drilling waste often gets into the inside of the chuck and mixes with lubricant, which jams the internal jaws. The cartridge must be disassembled, all parts are washed and lubricated before assembly. If extreme wear is detected, the part must be replaced; if the base or sleeve is severely worn, the entire unit must be replaced.
We tried to talk about all the failures that occur during the operation of electric drills. Remember that DIY repairs are always much cheaper than buying a new product.