Wooden shed 3 x 6. We build with our own hands a shed with a pitched roof at our dacha

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At the dacha you can’t do without a shed. Materials and working tools are stored here, and some settle in it for a while while the house is being built. The 3x6 format is the most popular. Most often it is done with pitched roof. Order a project outbuilding It’s a very expensive pleasure, it’s better to make the drawings yourself. And from our article with photos and videos you will learn how to build this building with your own hands.

Choosing a place for a construction site

Since the barn is an auxiliary building, special architectural delights are not needed here, but it should not stand out in the overall design of the site. Optimal options 2:

  • adjoin close to the house;
  • take it to the edge of the site.

When choosing the location of the building, you should proceed from the following considerations:

  1. The soil at the construction site should be the least suitable for laying out beds. Perhaps there is a place where nothing grows because of strong shade or with such a relief that it is impossible to place anything else there except a shed.
  2. TO utility room there must be convenient access.
  3. The shed must be placed at such a distance from the work site that it is not far to carry heavy tools and equipment used on the site.

There are quite a lot of options for buildings, let’s consider some that are not very complex.

Attention! When constructing a utility unit, the presence of drawings or at least sketches made by hand, required condition. Without this, it will be difficult for you to correctly determine the location for the construction of the future shed; you will not be able to calculate how much material you need to purchase.

Frame shed made of OSB boards

Having cleared and leveled the site according to the hydraulic level, they begin to construct the foundation. The easiest way is to lay it around the perimeter foundation blocks. Can be done columnar foundation, having dug holes under it and arranging a pillow at their bottom, place it vertically on it ready-made blocks. The second option is to make the base yourself by pouring concrete mixture. Further:

  • assemble the lower trim;
  • treat with an antiseptic;
  • lay the floor from rot-proof boards;
  • install the first frame post, secure it with metal corner, attach a temporary spacer for rigidity;
  • attach an OSB sheet to the stand and base;
  • install the second rack, secure it to the previously installed sheet;
  • remove the spacer and repeat everything;
  • assemble directly on site top harness from timber;
  • install the structure on the racks and secure it;
  • assemble the truss structure;
  • attach the sheathing;
  • cover the shed with corrugated sheets or other material.

All that remains is to paint the building and make steps.

Advice. It is better to attach the sheets to the bottom of the frame, retreating 5 cm. To do this, attach a block, the height of which is 50 mm, to the bottom trim. The sheet is rested on it, secured, and the control bar is moved further.

3x6 shed with a pitched roof from what was found

Outbuilding with pitched roof It’s not difficult to build, it’s inexpensive, especially if you use existing leftover building materials, it looks interesting. To build such a building with your own hands, you only need to have minimal carpentry experience.

Before we begin construction, we will collect tools and materials in one place. You can do everything manually, but if you have a screwdriver, electric planer and a jigsaw, grinder, drill, construction will be completed 2 times faster. The material you need to have is:

  1. The beam is 15x10 cm. The frame is constructed from it.
  2. Edged boards 5x15 cm, 4x15 cm for slings and sheathing, respectively.
  3. Unedged boards. The lathing is made from them.
  4. Roofing material.
  5. Waterproofing.
  6. Ingredients for preparing concrete mass.
  7. Self-tapping screws, nails.
  8. Ruberoid.

A barn like this lightweight materials, but it also needs a foundation. The most rational decision- columns laid to a depth of 0.4-0.5 m. Having considered all the nuances, we begin to work:

  • mark the outline of the future structure using a tape measure;
  • drive pegs into the corners and pull the rope;
  • mark the places where it is planned to install poles;
  • holes are made with a drill;
  • formwork is made on top, protruding 0.2-0.3 m;
  • arrange a cushion of gravel and sand, insert reinforcing bars;
  • fill;
  • let stand for 4 days;
  • the wood is treated with an antiseptic composition;
  • remove the formwork from the pillars;
  • cover the head with double folded roofing material;
  • a frame is assembled from a timber and tightened with staples;
  • install the racks, checking the verticality with a level;
  • strengthen the vertical beams with the help of temporary slopes, while the racks of the front wall must be higher to ensure an average roof slope of 17 degrees;
  • install logs with a distance of 0.6-1.2 m and lay the floor;
  • The ceiling is placed on vertical supports, securing the beams with brackets.

Important! Optimal distance between the elements of the columnar foundation - 120-150 cm. Their number depends on the dimensions of the barn.

Roof

When the frame is assembled, they begin to build the roof:


Advice. Step between elements rafter system from 0.6 to 0.8 m. This means that for a building 3x6 m you need to stock up on eight rafter legs.

  • If you plan to make a roof from galvanized iron, then you can do without lathing. For a 3x6 shed, 2 sheets are enough, but they need to be laid with an overlap.
  • When covering a shed with edged boards, an overlap of about 25 mm should be made. To prevent unpainted areas from appearing after the wood dries, better painting perform before sheathing.
  • Paint consumption, if applied in 2 layers, is about 15 liters for a barn dimensions of 3x6 m.
  • On average, it takes 7 days to build a shed of this type.
  • The installation of a single-slope structure requires 30% less money than for a 2-slope structure.
  • If one wind direction prevails at your dacha, then the option with a pitched roof suits you more than others.

Building a simple shed with your own hands is a feasible task. The main thing is not to forget to step back the legal 3 m from the neighbor’s fence and 5 m from the road, but there are no other restrictions.

Shed with a pitched roof: video

I present to your attention a photo report on the construction of a 3 by 5 meter shed made of wood.

The foundation for the barn is columnar. To begin with, I dug holes about 800 mm deep (10 in total). Then he took the roofing material and twisted it into a pipe with wire (fasten it as securely as possible).

It turned out like this:

Pour the concrete foundation:

The whole day was spent preparing the foundation. By the end of the day this is the picture we got:

The diameter of the posts is 190 mm.

After the foundation hardened, I began to make the lower frame of the barn:

The lower harness was treated with an antiseptic.

Yes, by the way, 100x50 mm timber was used for the frame. Assembling the rest of the frame:

It's time to tackle the roof.

The roof will be hip. Here is an explanatory picture to make it more clear:

Photos during the process of assembling the rafter system:

Closer photo:

The roof is almost ready:

Made the roof sheathing:

Corrubite was chosen as the roof covering.

I laid the roof and began to sheathe the barn with a block house under the timber:

I installed windows and doors, and this is how I got this nice little shed:

Construction took about two weeks.

I’m also thinking about covering the bottom of the shed with something like flat slate, to close concrete pillars. Well, you can add steps.

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The frame of the shed is built on the foundation that we prepared in the last stage. We will use beams and boards for the frame.

Bottom frame

The bottom of the shed box is the bottom band. As a rule, 100 x 100 mm or 150 x 150 mm are used for the bottom belt depending on the size of the stall.

You can simply place the strap for the bottom strap next to each other:

But in this case you must level the level using the panels (see photo above).

This is a cumbersome and inaccurate solution. It is better to cut the wood to half thickness and install it carefully as follows:

Secure the side with a nail (preferably galvanized) or a self-tapping screw.

Here are some larger shots to give you an idea:


Another option for a lower belt is an app. The connection in this case is made using angles:

Be sure to treat the bottom straps (or better yet, the entire wood) with antiseptic.

Thus, the wood will be protected from rot, insects and fire.

Main frame of the barn

Vertical posts are attached to the lower belt. This may be a smaller beam (eg 50 x 50 mm) or a plate (eg 100 x 50 mm). The easiest way to attach vertical stands to the bottom tape at the metal corners:

To strengthen the structure (so that the barn is not caught, but stands firmly), trusses (jeeps) are used - these are slabs that are attached to the frame diagonally:

The “hardness” of the frame also depends on the size of the stall.

For small sizes there are literally four racks and several inputs:

The greater the number of stands, the greater:




The main thing to remember is that in this case there is no single option.

We're building a sunroof

Everyone does what they like, so create a frame in such a way that it is permanent and reliable. And how much it will cost, etc. It doesn't matter.

All connections in the frame should be installed on the metal corners using screws - this is the best option.

Find out how you can place a storage roof with your hands.

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The 3×6 shed is one of the most popular formats. I have already published one report on the construction of a cave from 3 to 6 meters, now I decided to add another one. This time he flew over the roof.

First, the foundation. Since the site is located on the Volga-Mati coast (upper area, and below - river sand), he decided to apply a concrete base. Copied caves 600x600x600 mm in the amount of eight pieces.

Warehouse with our own hands - we build a cheap and reliable structure

I mixed the concrete and poured it into the prepared hole. The reinforcement was installed in the concrete (vertically upward) to allow installation in the warehouse.

The platform was made of brick - brick, the next day he measured the level and added where needed cement mortar, so it was smooth.

Once dry, he began assembling the lower frame of the shed.

For this purpose, a plate measuring 50x200x6000 mm was used.

The vertical frames of the frame are made of 50 × 100 mm panels. Here's a photo of the final shed frame:

As for the roof: in 8 for 3 there were 8 rafters.

I took cars 50x150x5000 mm. The straps are made and attached to the frame with nails. You can fix it and metal corners, but it seemed more convenient. Here is the diagram for attaching the rafters:

But the picture of the rafts is closer:

No rings were made since the galvanized roof is 2500 mm.

There were 2 zinc plates on the roof with a slight overlap.

Covering the suction surface from the edge 25×150 mm. The overlay is approximately 2.5 cm thick. Secure with 90 mm galvanized nails. The erased board immediately decided in front of the skin. It seemed that it was easier. And when the board is lit, you won't see any non-existent areas.

In front of the bastard, he first tried the door, and then began to translate the recording.

If anyone is interested in painting with Azure color, impregnation V33.

They bought it from Leroy and left fifteen liters in the barn. I used 2 layers. The color seems to be bad.

And here are the last photos of the 6 by 3 meter barn:


The location of the stables is about a week. Winter villa was ok, no problems.

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The first step is to prepare the foundation. The easiest way is to make a columnar foundation from brick, as we wrote earlier. During the construction of this barn, a concrete foundation was prepared.

Features of the construction of a barn with a pitched roof measuring 3x6 m at the dacha

For the foundation, holes were made with a depth of 800 mm and a diameter of 200 mm. For the formwork, twisted roofing felt was used, which protruded 500 mm above ground level. The fittings were welded from three rods. Final stage foundation - concreting. Use a hydraulic level to ensure the foundation is level. And here is the finished foundation:

Barn frame made of timber

A 100x100 mm beam was taken for the frame.

To ensure that the frame is reliable and does not wobble, a truss is needed. Truss (from Latin firmus - strong) allows you to save geometric shapes barn. A 100×50 mm board was used as a truss (in the photo of the board dark color- this is a farm).

Barn roof 6×3m

The next stage is lathing the roof of the barn. I used unedged board 100x25 mm. Corrugated sheets were chosen as the covering.

Sheets of 2500 mm were purchased. Since we don’t need this length, the sheets were cut to 2000 mm. The remains of the cut sheets were later used to cover the foundation of the barn (see last photo).

For the ridge and ebbs, straight sheets of iron were cut and bent as required.

The sheets are attached with an overlap (15-20 centimeters) using self-tapping screws.

Last steps

The outer edges of the timber and bottom harness barns were impregnated with waste to protect the wood from rotting. The frame of the shed was upholstered with 150x25 boards with a slight overlap (approximately 20mm).

The next step is painting. A walnut colored impregnation was used.

The first layer was applied with a brush, then two more layers with a spray gun. You can see for yourself what happened:

A 40x100 board was laid on the floor of the barn. The bottom of the barn, as I wrote above, was sealed with the remains of corrugation.

A door was made from the remains of a 100x25 board.

Installed the door, painted and installed windows. Here's what we ended up with:

All that's left is to finish the steps and you're done! I worked alone and only on weekends. There was no construction experience. In the end, building a 6x3 shed on my own took two and a half months.

Looking back, I will say what was done wrong:

  • It’s better to take ondulin for the roof - it would be much easier than fiddling with corrugated sheets;
  • It is also easier to make a pitched roof. Although the gable one looks more beautiful;
  • I decided not to buy the low tides, but made them myself. Due to inexperience, the tides turned out to be high; it was possible to reduce them by another 5 centimeters.

Estimate for the construction of a 6×3 shed

To give you an idea of ​​how much it will cost to build a barn with your own hands, I came up with the following estimate:

  1. Cement - 1500 rubles;
  2. Ruberoid - 530 rubles (2 rolls);
  3. Nails - 1500 rubles;
  4. Beam 100x100x6000 mm - 6,750 rubles (18 pieces);
  5. Beam 100x50x6000 mm - 2200 rubles (12 pieces);
  6. Rough board 25x100x6000 mm - 2860 rubles (45 pieces);
  7. Board 25x150x6000 mm - 12,500 rubles (90 pieces);
  8. Board 40x100x6000 mm - 5000 rubles (33 pieces);
  9. Corrugated sheets 2500mm - 7000 rubles (14 pieces);
  10. Iron sheets 2500mm - 3000 rubles (6 pieces);
  11. Walnut impregnation - 2800 rubles;
  12. White paint - 700 rubles;
  13. Door lock - 220 rubles;
  14. Door hinges - 180 rub.

TOTAL: 46,740 rubles.

I didn't count the windows because I already had them. If you add, for example, PVC windows, the barn will cost about fifty thousand.

Read another report on building a 6x3 m shed.

I present to your attention another shed made of timber measuring 4.5 by 3 meters. Some of the photographs, unfortunately, were lost, so I will try to describe all the incomprehensible moments in words.

For the foundation, 9 holes 500x500 mm with a depth of about 600 mm were dug. Sand is poured into the holes, compacted and spilled with water. I laid it on the sand paving slabs 400x400 mm, on tiles - foundation blocks (FBS) 200x200x400 mm. The blocks were leveled.

Bottom frame made of timber 100x100x4500 mm (3 pieces) - for the long side and timber 100x100x3000 mm (2 pieces) for the short side. I made cuts on the timber so that the bottom trim was even (see the corners of the trim in the photo below). First we lay a 4.5m beam, then a 3m beam on top and fasten the whole thing with nails.

I immediately laid the floor - for this I took a thin 25mm board (looking ahead, I’ll say: don’t repeat my mistake. Take a thicker board so that the floor doesn’t “walk”).

The frame was assembled from 40mm boards. He collected it on the ground, then lifted it and nailed it with nails. See the result for yourself in the photographs:

It's time to move on to the roof. There were no particular difficulties here: I assembled the roof frame, made the sheathing and laid ondulin.


The walls were lined with clapboard:

And the view from the inside:

At the same time I inserted windows (made them small and taller so that no one could get in):

By evening the shed lining was ready:

    6x3 barn with your own hands

    Hello forum friends.

    I share my experience on how to build a budget-friendly and reliable shed with your own hands on your summer cottage.
    This is the resulting object:

    Further decoration is up to your taste and opinion. I will paint mine closer to the fall, then I will update the theme.

    So, let's begin.

    The size of the barn was chosen to be 6 by 3 meters at the base, and this is not accidental. With this size, there is practically no excess lumber left, since the boards are sold exactly 6 meters long, and sawn in half they become exactly 3 meters. That's the math.

    For construction you will need:

  1. Registration: 01/08/15 Messages: 97 Thanks: 127

    For construction you will need materials:
    1. Board 100x25 6m 1st grade - / 3900 rub.
    2. Board 150x25 6m 2nd grade - / 1170 rub.
    3. Board 100x50 6m - / 3120 rub.
    4. Board 150x50 6m - / 1170 rub.
    5. Board 150x30 6m - / 3334.5 rub.
    6. OSB-3 panel 1250*2500 9mm - / 7560 rub.
    7. OSB-3 panel 1250*2500 12mm - / 800 rub.
    8. Preservative hard-to-wash antiseptic "SENEZH BIO" 10 kg. (green) - / 639 rub.
    9. Nails 4.0*100 - / 240 rub.
    10. Galvanized screw nails 3.0*50 - / 240 rub.
    11. Universal galvanized screw 4x35 (pack of 150 pcs) - / 234 rub.
    12. Lining roofing felt - / 300 rub.
    13. FBS blocks 40x20x20 - / 720 rub.
    14. Door hinge - / 120 rub.
    15. “Locked ears” overhead - / 60 rub.
    16. Ondulin (nails included, 3 bags) - / 8100 rub.
    17. Sand, about 1 cube

    Total about 33,000 rubles.

    You can save:
    - on ondulin, replacing it with corrugated sheets, but there was no cheap corrugated sheets on our market.
    - replace senezh with mining
    - don’t buy roofing material, but find scraps, you only need a little bit of it.

    Tool you will need:
    1. Roulette, 7m
    2. pencil, it’s better to take a thick construction one. I marked everything with free IKEA ones, erased three jokes to zero
    3. Hammer. It would seem that it could be more prosaic, but this is the main tool for construction and should be convenient and of the correct weight. I had 400g and 800g. 400 is light, but 800 is heavy. 600 would be just right.
    4. Saw, ideally circular, you can use a jigsaw, or at worst just a hacksaw.
    5. Brush large and wide, apply senezh
    6. Shovel, dig holes for the foundation
    7. Wheelbarrow, carry sand and FBS
    8. Level, ideally a hydraulic level, or a simple “stick” level, and the longer the better. I had 2 meters. Laser level He turned out to be no assistant in this matter at all - during the day he is simply not visible on the street.
    9. Screwdriver

    The construction took six days:
    1 day - foundation
    Day 2 - wooden base barn
    Day 3 - wall frame
    Day 4 - installation of rafters and sheathing
    Day 5 - OSB installation on the walls
    Day 6 - installation of ondulin, door

    It's actually a long time. It was because I worked completely alone. An assistant (even the “bring-and-give” type) would have significantly reduced the time. Plus, it often rained, which reduced the efficiency of work, and the downpour and thunderstorm generally forced me to pause. However, I was in no particular hurry.

  2. Registration: 01/08/15 Messages: 97 Thanks: 127

    Day 1. Preparing the foundation.

    At this stage you will need a shovel, tape measure, level, sand, FBS blocks.

    I decided to make a columnar foundation, on FBS blocks 40x20x20. The soil is loamy, after half a meter thick clay begins.

    First we mark the territory.
    1. Rectangle 6x3: measure all 4 sides, which should be equal to 6 and 3 meters, respectively, and both diagonals, which should be exactly equal to each other. This is where you need a 7m tape measure, because the diagonal is approximately 6.71m. We drive pegs in the corners.
    2. Drive in pegs every 2m along the long side, along the short side in the middle.

    Next, around the peg with a shovel on the ground, we mark approximately the outline of the future hole, after which the peg can be pulled out.
    At this stage I made a mistake, don’t repeat it: for all the columns I “drew” the outline so that the peg was exactly in the middle. This is wrong (I had to correct it later)! This can only be done for two central blocks. If you do this for corners and sides, then the shed will not rest on the entire block, but on its edge, and the block may “float away”. In the picture, I marked with red dots the location of the peg for each of the blocks. Black - block location. Gray is the outline of the pit.

    Next we dig holes 40x40 cm to the clay level (i.e. about half a meter). (ATTENTION - this type of foundation is suitable for the soil on my site, if your soil is unstable, swampy or peat or anything else, study the topic of foundations separately!)
    The holes were filled with sand to ground level with one intermediate compactor in the middle. The sand was spilled with water when compacting.

    Attachments:

    Last edited: 06/04/15

    Registration: 01/08/15 Messages: 97 Thanks: 127

    The holes are dug and filled with sand. I placed the blocks, and naturally some went into the forest, some for firewood (in height).
    Of course, it is much more convenient to level the sand when there is no FBS block on it (~30kg), but since the level of the sand is slightly below ground level, plus the dug heaps lie right there next to each other, and 12 identical objects that could be used instead of blocks I wasn’t there, I had to suffer.

    Having only a 2-meter level (it can only check any two adjacent blocks at a time), I made a preliminary alignment. Somewhere I added sand, somewhere I removed it.
    For the final alignment of all the blocks in one plane, I chose one of the purchased boards, the most even (150x50) and used it as an extension of the level - I placed it on the end and applied a level on top.
    Thus, two things were visible at once - from above the level showed the horizontal, and from below it was clearly visible which blocks were lower, and on which two blocks the board lay (accordingly, they were higher).

    After several iterations, I achieved complete alignment.
    It is necessary to check along 11 lines: three measurements along the 6-meter side, four measurements along the 3-meter side and both diagonals. Everywhere the board should clearly rest on all the posts, and the level should show a clear zero (see picture).

    The result looks like this. I rotated the central columns along the edges by 90 degrees, but it’s better not to do this, then I’ll explain why.

    An attentive reader will ask - why are some marks narrow and others wide? I answer - narrow, where the board is nailed across the surface of the wall, wide - where along.
    It will be clearer in the picture:

    4 boards out of 11 are turned and placed with the wide part against the wall surface. This is no coincidence. At this place there will be a junction of two OSB boards. And since a rather point, 25th, board is used for the frame, attaching two slabs to it, placed across it, will be inconvenient (or you may even miss it).
    The pitch of these 4 posts is extremely important - exactly 1m25cm from the edge of the board. Two pieces on one side, 2 pieces on the other. In the center there will be a gap of exactly 1 m between them.
    The remaining frame posts are placed approximately in the middle of the remaining gaps, i.e. somewhere around 62-63 cm.

    I did not nail the extreme posts to the very edge, but stepped back about 3 cm so that carrier board did not crack (that’s how it appears in the diagram). Now I regret it a little, I probably shouldn’t have done that. There is a void under the OSB in the corners; you will have to seal the joint with something to prevent it from leaking.

    After marking the top and bottom boards, we take all 11 two-meter blanks, lay them out approximately in places and nail each with two nails on each side.

    When the wall frame is ready, you need to nail the jibs to it on both sides (the 100x25 1.2 m long scraps obtained earlier will do just fine. If you have longer boards, it is better to use them). The other end of the jib should face the top of the wall (which is now on the floor) and rest on the ground. Thus, when the wall is raised, it will slide along the ground, and at the same time prevent it from falling.
    You need to lift it by the center. Lift with your feet, and not with your lower back, in small, conveniently fixed iterations: lifted - placed a piece of board. Now it is convenient to take it with both hands. I lifted it further, put it on my knee, now it’s convenient to grab it from below, stood up and raised it to waist level, etc. In this case, you need to make sure that the jib is stably holding the ground. There is no need to immediately raise it to a vertical position - you can tip the wall outward, and this will collapse. Therefore, with a fairly large elevation angle, you should take a long board (2.5-3 m) and make a central jib outward, which will keep the wall from falling. Pull it until the wall stands vertically - immediately fix the position, then nail the small side braces to the base and finally fix the wall in place.

    The front wall is assembled according to the same principle, only the height of the racks is 2.40 and their pitch is different (since there is space for the door)

    There are three flat racks, 1.25 from the edge. Between them there is also a regular stand in the middle.
    And for the door, the width of which I decided to make 1 m, the racks were made double.
    The door width of 1 meter was chosen for two reasons: firstly, a wide door is simply convenient. Secondly, with such a width, an OSB sheet is just enough. If you make the opening smaller, you will have to cover the hole with something (although, to be honest, there will be some OSB scraps for this).

    Last edited: 06/04/15

    Registration: 01/08/15 Messages: 97 Thanks: 127

    The side walls are a little more difficult due to their slope.
    Here it is no longer possible to place the top board on the bottom one and make precise marks.
    I did this.
    bottom - board 2.80, placed on edge in place
    the top is a 3m board, on one side it touched the bottom board, on the other it was exactly 40cm behind (the difference between the height of the front and back walls). Using a square along the bottom board, I made marks on the top one (in fact, I did this only on one wall, I did the first one by eye - then you’ll see what came out of it). I sawed off the length in place.
    When the marks are made, we nail the outer posts. All the same “weaving” nails, still two nails per knot.
    We try on the internal racks and cut them in place. Let's put it together. Place it vertically. Here there was no need to fence any jibs - the side walls simply rested against the existing jibs of the front and rear walls, there was simply nowhere for them to fall, and besides, they were much lighter.

    After all the walls are in place, we take another control measurement (in fact, control measurements should be taken literally before each step), I level the bases of all the walls so that they clearly correspond to the base of the shed, and make sure that the 6x3 dimensions and diagonals are met. For leveling I use a hammer, and in in this case Its weight of 800 grams is quite justified.
    When the bottom of all 4 walls is level, I nail them to the base - a nail every meter.

    The next step is to align the verticals. Before you begin, you need to at least somehow fasten the walls at the top together. To do this, you will need a ladder, or a stool, barrel, etc., to nail the nail at a height of 2.50 meters.
    To do this, over the side wall, with an overlap on the front and back, we fill a board (from scraps). Moreover, you can nail the side wall tightly to the frame, but to the front and back only with 1 small nail (not a hundred nails. Naturally, at the same time, level the outer surfaces of the walls so that they coincide in the corners (then, if all dimensions were observed when cutting the boards, everything will work out exactly the first time).

    When the top is fastened, the jibs must be torn off from the base, thereby giving freedom to the structure. Using a level that can measure verticality (I used an electronic one), we achieve the verticality of the wall and immediately fix it with the appropriate jib.
    At this stage, jibs are added along long walls(I don’t have them in the photo yet).

    Let me emphasize once again: The more accurately the measurements and cutting were made earlier, the more evenly the frame is put together, the easier it will be to level all the walls to complete verticality in all planes. And the smoother the frame is, the easier it will be later.

    The final step in the frame is a second board on top of the front and back walls (you can clearly see them in the photo). According to the plan, its length should be 5.80, but in reality it may differ slightly, so it is better to measure it locally. This is essentially a reinforcement of the frame of long walls, since it is on them that the entire roof rests.

    Attachments:

    Last edited: 06/04/15

  3. Registration: 01/08/15 Messages: 97 Thanks: 127

    Day 4. Installation of rafters and sheathing.

    I can't say why this is the order. It would probably be more correct to first sheathe the frame with OSB boards, and then lay the rafters, since even though there were jibs in all directions, it was quite shaky and uncomfortable at the top.

    Required:
    1. Board 100x25x4 meters - 15 pieces (exactly those 4 m sections that remained after cutting off the 2 meter parts for the back wall)
    2. Board 100x40x4 meters - 4 pieces (but four two-meter pieces of them remain, two of which need to be put under the side walls, moreover, “yesterday”, and two more bars will come in handy later)
    3. Board 150x25 2 grade with wane, all 10 pcs.

    Rafter boards need to be prepared, and they are of two types: thin 25mm (15 pieces), and thick 50mm (4 pieces).
    1. cut to one length - ~4m. Since initially they were all different, you can take the shortest one, or it’s better to lead to the closest overall size. For example, I had 10 boards that were almost identical, 4 were longer, and one was much shorter (by 10 cm). Of course, I didn’t shorten everything by 10, but cut only the longest ones. One rafter is simply shorter than the others, it’s not noticeable.

    2. give the rafters the desired profile. Cut out a platform for support on the wall in a certain way. To do this, I put one board on the frame, noted what needed to be cut, sawed it off, made sure it fit perfectly and then used this board as a template (of course, it must be said that the most even board was chosen for the template), in profile it looks something like this:

    On the frame of the front and rear walls I mark the locations of the rafters.
    - thick after 1.20m
    - thin between them every 40cm

    I lay out the prepared (sawed) rafters at the top, in a clear sequence: three thin, one thick.

    The next step is to secure the rafters.
    I have to admit that in the first messages I forgot to indicate several details that are additionally needed:
    1. galvanized corner 50x50x20 - 32 pcs (13r/pc)
    2. wood screws 25mm (pack of 150 pcs)
    3. rough nails 3x70, about half a kilo

    Why such a set?
    I used corners to attach the rafters to the front wall. One corner on each side. They ensure the stability of the board from falling to the side. Each side of the corner has 4 self-tapping screws (unfortunately this is not included in the photo). Corners are only for fine rafters. The thick ones were simply nailed with weaving from below through two boards.
    From the back wall I was already nailing it with nails. But the “hundred” will chip the entire board, that is, you need to hit it at an angle, and in order to hold it better, I chose rough nails and hit 3-4 pieces at a time.

    Why are the rafters different?
    The answer is simple - at first I wanted to limit myself to only 15 thin ones. But after double-checking the load on several load calculators, at such a length that the roof would not collapse in the snowy winter, they had to be beaten in increments of 20 cm. Adding 4 thick rafters solved this issue.

    The sheathing is nailed on top of the rafters. I took a 150x25 board, so there were only 2 grades.
    For a width of 150 and 10 boards, the step was 44 cm. With this step, the ondulin lays down clearly, the joints fall on the sheathing board.
    The sheathing was nailed with 100 nails, into each rafter. One for the narrow ones, two for the thick ones. The end boards are in narrow ones in twos, in thick ones in threes. All from different diverging angles. This is to make it harder for the winds to tear off the roof later.

    It was noticed: walking on the bare rafters was scary, everything was “playing”. It’s better to lay out but not nailed boards of sheathing. When all the sheathing was nailed down, the roof became monolithic.

    Attachments:

  4. Registration: 01/08/15 Messages: 97 Thanks: 127

    Day 5: installation OSB boards on the walls

    You will need:
    OSB boards 9mm 14pcs, screw nails 3kg, universal galvanized screws 400pcs, screwdriver, hammer, strong hand to wave at them. Ladder. Saw.

    fasten OSB is better(more convenient and reliable) on screw nails, 50-60mm long with a wide head. That’s what I did, except at the junction of two plates, where I used screws (their advantage is that they are shorter)

    You should start from the corners. I chose the front left corner. The OSB is attached so that its upper edge evenly covers one of the two upper cross members of the frame.
    How to nail an OSB sheet alone:
    1. measure 250cm from the top, drive two nails into the base on which the sheet could be placed.
    2. Place the sheet on the nails driven in, secure it with a ladder so that it does not fall.
    3. Tap the support nails up and down to achieve an even position relative to the top board. tapping left and right to achieve an exact position relative to the future side surface of the wall.
    4. nail the top edge of the sheet. Nails (screws) should be nailed in the corners and every 10-15cm.
    5. no matter how smoothly everything was done at the previous stages, the frame plays a little. From above - the sheet is nailed evenly, from below it will either extend beyond the surface of the dock wall or not reach it. This is where it is very important to qualitatively shake the structure so that the OSB sheet exactly matches the edge and the bottom too. And only after that nail the bottom two corner nails.
    6. Next, it’s a matter of technique - to determine the straight line along which to hammer the nails from below, and according B-pillar. Here a tape measure, a pencil, a flat board like a giant ruler, an ink thread, etc. can help.

    The main thing is to start with the corners and ensure that they are even, and OSB sheets they clearly coincided.

    The sheets for the front wall are laid entirely. One sheet is cut lengthwise (the dimensions depend on the distance to the door posts) and at the 1st door opening, it clearly lies on the right and left.

    For the rear wall, the sheets are shortened from 2.50 to 2.10. One sheet, central, should be reduced in width to 1 m (it is better to measure the actual width, especially since the top and bottom of the sheet may require different size, for me the difference was 5mm)

    For the side ones, as always, it’s a little more difficult. You can cut flush with the sheathing, or at the level of the wall frame, but in any case at the angle of the roof. Measure locally. perfect way did not invent.

    When the OSB is filled, the frame will become truly monolithic. It’s no longer a sin to cover the roof.

    Attachments:

  5. Registration: 01/08/15 Messages: 97 Thanks: 127

    Day 6. Coating with ondulin and making the door.

    Ondulin, 18 sheets.
    Three of them will need to be cut.
    I cut one sheet into 3 parts - lengthwise. I get two pieces of 3 waves and one 4re (it’s not needed, but it will come in handy on the farm).

    Two sheets need to be cut crosswise into 4 equal parts each. The sheet was 196 cm long, so it was cut into pieces of 49 cm. I sawed with a circular saw - there was a lot of “bitumen” dust, it was better to put something down to collect such debris.

    The remaining sheets are complete. I don’t think there’s any need to tell you how to nail ondulin; there are a lot of videos on the Internet about this topic. I will say on my own behalf that you need to walk along it carefully, only step across several waves at once, try to always lean on at least two points (arms and legs).
    They gave me three packages of nails, almost all of them were gone.

    I pounded according to this scheme:
    - outer sheets: in each wave
    - in the center of the sheet: through the wave
    - at the junction of two sheets: through a wave, but the junction was sure to break through, even if it did not fall into the general rhythm.

    I started from the bottom left corner (the wind in this case is predominantly from the right), so the trimmings turned out to the right and from the top. The photo shows the exact moment when all the solid sheets are laid.

    Two steps back, I made a mistake that I will now have to correct - when nailing the sheathing, I did not align it along the edge. Therefore, you can’t nail down the wind board; you’ll have to carefully file and place the boards at a height with something to cover the edge.

    Door:
    The door is made of OSB with a thickness of 12 mm, size 95 in width and 213 cm in height. Planted on long “barn” type loops. To prevent heat from escaping from the OSB, they are screwed with 35 mm screws, with reverse side planted wooden block(board scraps 100x25), so the screw does not stick out and holds well.

    Cuttings of 100x50 timber became the top crossbar above the door and the threshold below. There is a distance of 210 cm between the threshold and the crossbar, so the door rests against them both at the top and bottom, thereby not falling inside.

    We hang the hinges, handle, lock and that’s it, the shed is ready!

    Thank you for your attention.
    I ask construction experts to provide constructive criticism. If there are mistakes, to protect those who follow my path. To me - to correct it if possible.

    A little later I’ll post the project in sketchup.

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