Fasteners in frame house
- a fairly simple topic, but it is important to think through everything in advance, so as not to run to the stores and buy one kilogram of nails, but to immediately purchase 150 kilograms (usually that much is spent on an average home) of the necessary fasteners on a base at a big discount.
I did so, but it still wasn’t enough; I’ve already gone back several times to buy new boxes of nails.
But of course, there were a lot of extra nails and screws left. Therefore, I want to make the task as easy as possible for my readers.
I would like to note right away that in a frame house forbidden use screws or self-tapping screws, since the load everywhere is shear, not tensile, and neither self-tapping screws nor self-tapping screws work for shear, so there is nothing to discuss here. Some builders are still confident that self-tapping screws can be used and will try to persuade you to do so. Don't give in.
But great for cutting nails work, they are incredibly difficult to cut. We are, of course, talking about the load-bearing part of the house, and not about the decoration.
And I also want to say about corners. Angles are not used by professionals in frame construction (not counting the temporary attachment of trusses to the frame). Use them Can, but it’s not profitable in terms of time and money, decide for yourself. Again, be wary of builders who recommend their use.
Foundation fasteners
For pile foundation The following fasteners are used:
if you have screw foundation, then you need steel anchor bolts.
if you have a bored foundation, then you need studs m10 and washers with M10 nuts (if you do it like I do, filling the studs in the filler) or anchor bolts
for concrete.
if you have slab foundation or tape, then you will need again anchor bolts for concrete.
Fasteners for frame house frame
All boards in the frame box are hammered with ordinary smooth construction boards nails diameters 3.1-3.5 mm and length 80-90mm(usually 90 mm if the board is 50 mm thick and 80 mm if the boards are 40 mm thick).
An exception may be lathing on walls or floors, where it is better to use screw or razor nails.
Fasteners for cladding frame houses
Fasteners for floor covering.
60mm nails— it’s better to use rough or screw ones + glue (or self-tapping screws of the same length).
Such nails help to hold the floor tightly so that it does not creak and is not “alive.”
Fasteners for exterior wall cladding.
50 mm nails- better ribbed or screw ones.
This applies to both OSB-3 boards and plywood, as well as inch boards (which I will use for cladding frame house I).
Fasteners for interior wall cladding.
If the inside lining is plasterboard, then you will need special self-tapping screws for plasterboard length 25 mm(less often 35mm) length. Just remember to tighten the screws correctly:
If you have lining inside, then it can be secured with 50-70 mm nails.
Metal tile fasteners
For installation of metal tiles, special roofing tiles are used. self-tapping screws dimensions sizes 4.8x20 and 4.8x38 millimeters (metal-metal, metal-wood).
Window fasteners
There are several methods for fixing windows in a frame house.
- On the anchor
- On plates
Accordingly, in each case you will need appropriate fasteners. I’ll tell you more about installing windows in due time, when I fix them myself.
Siding fasteners
Galvanized self-tapping screws with a wide cap (at least 8mm) long not less than 15 mm or galvanized nails with a wide cap (less often) no less long 40 mm.
Fasteners for wooden facades
Galvanized nails 50-70 mm(preferably galvanized, since zinc coating is done using electrolysis, and not the usual “hot” method).
Deck fasteners
For terraces, it is better to use self-tapping screws made of stainless or galvanized steel. There is a special fastener for terraces, but for the price it comes out as half a terrace.
It is also recommended to fasten the deck boards with hidden “snake” fasteners. 
In this video you can look at almost every fastener in visual detail:
So, fasteners are very important element frame house, which you should pay close attention to if you don’t want it to fall apart or simply burst at the seams over time. Do not give in to the persuasion of builders who want to build you a house using screws, self-tapping screws and other inappropriate things.
Read reviews from real residents frame houses on the forum or in my article and gain experience so that no one deceives you.
Basic and most common connections in a frame house easier and more reliable to perform using special fasteners. Each of them has its own fasteners, ensuring the strength and stability of the entire structure. It is easy to use and allows you to avoid such labor-intensive connections as inserting “half-wood” or various “locks”.
Connecting fasteners for assembling frame wooden building structures has been used for a long time: tightening brackets, bolts and clamps. Very often used in the construction of frame houses. Today it has become more diverse and perfect. Fasteners not only simplify and speed up the assembly of building structures, but also make them stronger and more stable. Fasteners are most effectively used in the construction of prefabricated frame houses. Connecting fasteners for assembling construction wooden structures too diverse to be described in one article. Therefore, using the example of a frame house, we will consider only part of the fasteners, but the most used and mass-produced.
Connection fastener made from cold rolled steel sheet 2.0 - 4.0 mm thick, in the form of perforated (with holes) plates, corners, holders, supports for beams, connectors (plates with needle spikes - connectors), as well as shoes for load-bearing posts and columns, mounted directly on the foundation . Depending on the purpose (the dimensions of the parts to be connected and the loads transferred to them), each type of such fastener is presented in several versions: by size, perforation configuration (holes) and even with additional elements(ribs) of increased rigidity.
The perforation of the fasteners regulates the thickness of the nails and tightening bolts, as well as their number: on the one hand, they are enough to securely fix the connection, on the other hand, cracking of the wood does not occur. Such fasteners can have various coatings that protect them from corrosion: zinc, primer or polymer powder paint. Part of the connecting fasteners is also used for repair work(for example, a corner when constructing a frame internal partitions). Therefore, when choosing such fasteners (standard sizes, metal thickness, design option, perforation, stiffeners and protective coating), you should imagine what loads it will experience during operation.
The connecting fastener has a number undeniable advantages before classical connections in the construction of low-rise buildings wooden houses and, first of all, prefabricated frame ones, in which a lot of different nodal connections have to be made.
Firstly, there is no need to make labor-intensive and skill-requiring classical connections such as half-timber inserts or tie-locks. There is no splitting of wooden structures due to excessive large quantity and sizes of nails and bolts: the normalized perforation of fasteners (holes) does not allow the use of too thick nails and driving them close to the edge of the bar.
Secondly, the classic tie-in leads to a decrease in the strength of the beam due to a reduction in its cross-section at the joints (wood removal). Steel connecting fasteners, on the contrary, create additional reinforcement for the design of the units.
: Used in butt joints that are subject to tensile loads, such as splicing timber for tightening or making roof trusses.
Fastening plates are used in connections subject to tensile loads. They are applied to the connection on both sides and tightened: with bolts - 2 holes with a diameter of 11 mm and nails - the remaining holes with a diameter of 7.5, 5 and 4.5 mm. The dimensions of the holes determine the diameter of the bolts and nails used: their task is to provide the necessary strength of the connection, preventing splitting of the wood.
: used in various corner connections(walls, racks with a supporting frame, tie beams, roof rafters, etc.). An angle with a stiffener has more high stability to bending loads.
Fastening angles are used for angular connections between walls or an upper tie beam with a roof truss. Available in various standard sizes and several designs, including those reinforced with a stiffener. The corners are applied to the joint on both sides and tightened: with bolts - 2 holes with a diameter of 11 mm and nails - the remaining holes with a diameter of 7.5, 5 and 4.5 mm. Bolts for fixation are used only in particularly strong connections.
Installation of beams attic floor or roof rafters using mounting angles. Perforation of fasteners ensures the optimal number, thickness and location of nails in terms of the loads occurring in the joint and eliminates splitting of wood. Corners with a stiffener are more resistant to bending loads.
Beam holders and supports
Beam holders and supports: indispensable for constructing floors (floors and attics) in frame houses. Withstands high tensile loads in various corner joints. The holder is designed for fixing a floor beam to a wall, column or other beam during construction. The support (or shoe) allows you to install the beam on the walls or columns of an already erected building (during reconstruction).
The support can be universal (consists of separate left-handed and right-handed elements) - suitable for beams of any section, and specialized - for beams of a specific section. In addition, the support can be designed for open mounting or for finishing. Shoes for posts and columns: The shoe is bolted or poured with concrete into the foundation or foundation. Its design allows, even after installation, to adjust its height (± 25 mm).
The beam holder is used when installing wooden floors when it lies with its ends on walls or other beams. Each connection is fixed on both sides. Therefore, the holder can be left-handed or right-handed. It is nailed down. The number and size of nails are regulated by holes with a diameter of 5 mm.
Consists of two individual parts- left-handed and right-handed and suitable for beams of various sections. The connection is fixed on both sides with bolts and nails. Mostly such supports are produced in one standard size and from sheet steel with a thickness of at least 2.5 cm.
It is designed for a specific beam section and is available in several standard sizes and two design options: 1 and 3 - for subsequent finishing in order to hide their vertical “wings” curved outward for fasteners; 2 - without subsequent finishing (“wings” are hidden).
Beam support is used when constructing wooden floors, when it cannot be supported on the walls or columns themselves (for example, installing a floor in an existing building). Each connection is fixed on both sides with bolts and nails. In our example, two short beams are connected by supports through central pillar — practical solution a frequently occurring problem.
Shoes for load-bearing posts and columns are installed (anchored) in concrete foundation during its pouring (and bolted to the finished one). Exist various designs shoes: 1 and 4 - for pouring in concrete; 2 and 3 - fastened with bolts; 1 and 2 - the rack is installed in the shoe; 3 and 4 - the shoe is cut into the rack; All structures, once mounted, can be rotated around their own axis and adjusted in height.
The rack or column is installed on the mounted shoe and secured with the required number of bolts: 1 - the rack is installed in the shoe; 2 - the shoe is cut into the rack. In this state, the stand can be rotated to the desired angle around the axis and adjusted in height within a range of ± 25 mm.
Connectors
Connectors: designed for complex joint connections in roof trusses spanning spans of 7.5 meters or more. The connector is a flat plate, in the body of which needle nails (or spikes) of a certain configuration are cut out by stamping. They are made both in the form of plates with specific dimensions, and as a tape (25 - 152 mm wide), cut to the required length. The connectors are pressed with spikes into the wood (across the grain) on both sides of the connection. The principle of working with connectors is well understood using the example of installing a roof truss, where two connectors (on 2 sides) allow you to assemble an assembly from 3 parts at once.
Connectors - special connecting fasteners
Connectors are special connecting fasteners. It allows you to assemble and strengthen complex joint connections of 3 or more parts, for example, in roof trusses with spans of more than 7.5 m. The connector is a flat plate with needle-shaped spikes cut into its body. They are made in the form of ready-made plates with specific dimensions or tapes (25 - 152 mm wide). They are pressed with tenons into the wood on both sides of the joint.
In a high-quality frame house there are no trifles, and such a seemingly insignificant thing as fasteners generally takes on one of the main roles in importance. Without reliable and correctly selected fasteners there will be no reliable and durable home.
Important to use correct fastening not only for the frame of the house, but also for fixing the internal and outer skin.
Many future homeowners will not even think about such a “trifle”, at most asking themselves the question of what better than self-tapping screws or nails, which is quite understandable. Costs for purchasing fasteners and installation materials constitute a small part of the total estimate for the construction of a frame house. It is much worse when they forget about correctly selected fasteners, or the builders themselves simply do not know. The other side of the coin in this matter is the regime of total savings on materials. With this approach, hardware is subject to reduction. In this case, the estimate will most likely include the most economical option, such as black self-tapping screws and regular construction nails. By and large, there is nothing wrong with such fastening options, but only if it is used strictly for its intended purpose, and not everywhere possible. For example, black self-tapping screws are indispensable as temporary fasteners; they are also great for internal lining walls with slab materials (plasterboard, QuickDeck) in preparation for finishing. The basic rule is to observe the purpose of the fasteners when building a frame house, apply it where it is needed and cope with its main task. To correctly assess the need to use certain hardware in the frame, you need to correctly assess what loads are acting in a particular node of the frame house.
To a popular question: What better than nails or self-tapping screws The answer can be given quite unambiguously that each fastener must be used for its intended purpose.
Look what happens to an ordinary hardened self-tapping screw when it takes a shear load. The self-tapping screw breaks at its weakest point and its head flies off, so using this type of fastener as a fastening for beam supports is strictly contraindicated. But in this place of fastening, special galvanized anchor nails with an annular notch and a conical head feel great. Such a nail has a diameter of 4.2 mm, and the conical head is wedged into the holes of the perforated fasteners, making it virtually impossible to cut off the head of such a nail, naturally, provided that a sufficient number of such nails are hammered in.
Be sure to consider the environment in which the fastener will be located.
When choosing options for using fasteners, it is necessary to take into account the environment in which it will be located. In places unprotected from precipitation, as well as in places where condensation is likely to occur, fasteners with special protective coating protecting against corrosion. For example, we as fasteners exterior finishing from wood we choose nails with hot galvanization, the resistance to external factors of which has proven to be best side. We import such fasteners only from Finland, since Russian analogues with similar processing and similar characteristics do not satisfy us in terms of quality.
| Mounting location | Fastener type | photo |
| Attaching the strapping board to the monolithic base | Expansion anchor |  |
| Fastening decking boards To wooden joists | Structural Torx screw |  |
| Fastening the frame posts | Smooth nails for nails |  |
| Stitched (double, triple) frame posts | Rough / Screw nail for nailer |  |
| Stitched (double, triple) external posts | Rough/Screw galvanized nail or plated nail |  |
| Fastening joist supports, beam supports | Galvanized nail with tapered head and ring cut |  |
| Lathing, lath | Galvanized self-tapping screw, rough or screw nail |  |
| Soft roofing, Isoplaat | Galvanized roofing nail |  |
| The external cladding of the house is made of imitation timber. | Rough galvanized nail for nailer with galvanization. |  |
| Sheathing the house with windproof MDVP boards. | Galvanized roofing nail, galvanized staples 50-60 mm. |  |
| Fastening of structural beams, rafters, crossbars, tie rods | Galvanized stud, galvanized washers and nuts. |  |
Returning to the economic aspect of our article, I would like to mention that the price of special fasteners can reach up to 20 rubles. per piece, which is more than 60 times more expensive than the price of a regular black self-tapping screw 3.8*51 mm. On the scale of the entire construction project, where the total number of hardware amounts to tens of thousands of pieces, the amount is significant.
The cost of highly specialized fasteners can be several times higher than the cost of ordinary nails or self-tapping screws.
There is another unpleasant nuance that can “pop up” with dishonest developers, and which allows you to reduce the estimate on the total cost of fastening materials - this is the amount of fasteners used in a particular unit of a frame house. Less spent fasteners mean more benefits for the company, and in the absence of proper control, “extra” nails, corners and screws can go to satisfy the construction needs of a dishonest builder. With this approach, in some components of a frame house there is a risk of a very serious lack of reliability.
There are regulations that regulate required amount fasteners in each frame node, plus there are manufacturers’ recommendations building materials according to the required type and quantity of fasteners for fastening materials. In our work we try to focus on American and Scandinavian building standards, which are often stricter than Russian ones regulatory documents. For example, in Europe, if such standards are not observed, the house simply will not pass inspection by the responsible authorities. For us, compliance with such standards is the key to confidence in the maximum reliability of all our homes.
The importance of choosing the right fasteners when constructing a frame building is beyond doubt. In this case, when connecting different elements and parts of a building, the type of hardware suitable for a particular situation should be used. Of course, in most buildings erected according to frame technology, the main type of fasteners are nails.
Types of fasteners used in frame house construction
In today's frame housing construction apply the following types fasteners:
- Nails. Traditional option installation of various components of wooden houses. It is a wedge driven into wood. They are used to connect almost all elements and parts of a frame house, with rare exceptions;
- Self-tapping screws. They are immersed in the material by screwing, which is accessible due to the presence of a screw thread. The main place of use is sheathing and cladding;
- Staples. Partially driven into wood or other materials. They are used mainly for cladding frame houses;
- Hairpins. They are a bolted connection. They are made of galvanized steel and are used for fastening beams, rafters and other most massive and critical load-bearing structures.
The above list shows that only nails are used at any stage of the construction of a frame house. This is explained by the presence of a number of significant advantages of this type of fastener.
Advantages of nails over self-tapping screws
The main advantages of nails compared to self-tapping screws with similar parameters are as follows:
- A stable position of the nail inside the wood, which is achieved by pressure exerted on the fastener from all sides;
- The ability to withstand constant temperature and humidity deformations characteristic of wood, which destroy the screw threads of self-tapping screws and make their position in the material unstable;
- The ability to withstand severe lateral loads, characteristic of hinged joints of frame houses and easily breaking self-tapping screws made of red-hot iron.
As a result, it is advisable to use self-tapping screws in frame house construction only in units where the main load is the pull-off effect, for example, when installing sheathing, fastening mineral wool, chipboard or siding.
Types of nails and their functional purpose
The nails used in today's frame construction are high-tech hardware of several types. The most commonly used:
- Galvanized regular and screw (another name is rough, ring). The use of this type of fastener is a mandatory requirement when constructing external structures of a building. Screw, ring or rough nails are equipped with a special notch various shapes, increasing friction in the nodes and, as a result, the rigidity of the frame;
- Black regular and screw. Used for connection individual elements and structures located inside the building. The use of non-galvanized nails is a way to save money during construction, however, not all professional builders use this option in practice;
- Nails for nailers. They are special hardware that is immersed in wood using special tool without shock load;
- Tar paper nails, black and galvanized. They are small in size and used for cladding various slabs or fastening rolled insulating materials.
The number of types of nails used in frame construction is not limited to the above list. Moreover, modern manufacturers regularly present various improvements to this seemingly simple and common fastening hardware.
Self-tapping screws for frame construction must be used with caution. Many novice developers make their choice in favor of screws. They believe that it is threaded connection will give the structure strength and durability. Mounted on galvanized self-tapping screws big hopes regarding their resistance to corrosion. Nails are undeservedly forgotten today. For some unknown reason, these strong and reliable hardware are considered a relic of the past. Few people want to swing a hammer for hours and risk injuring themselves. With screws everything is much simpler: they are simply screwed into the wood and can be easily removed if a mistake is made. In fact, when deciding whether to use screws or nails when building a frame house, one cannot be categorical. Both types of fasteners can be used. Let's look at the pros and cons of each type.
To work with wood, it is necessary to purchase screws with a wide pitch between threads. Metal hardware has a smaller diameter and thread pitch. They do not provide the necessary fastening strength, since wood is much softer than metal.
When choosing screws as fasteners for a frame house, you should consider a number of factors:
- The products have quite high cost. It is an order of magnitude higher than that of nails. To assemble numerous frames, several thousand screws will be required. And this will cost a lot of money.
- The screws are made of hardened metal. They can only be used in connections where the load is due to pull-out. Under transverse pressure, metal breaks easily.
- If the self-tapping screw breaks, it will be impossible to remove the broken fragment. This can be a problem if precision work is being done.
- The screws are screwed in using a screwdriver. If you use an electric tool, there will be inconvenience with the cable. The battery life of the device is limited. After just an hour of operation, both batteries will run out. Construction will be suspended.
- To tighten wooden fragments, you need to use screws with threads only on the lower part. This is the only way to achieve a tight and reliable screed.
However, you should not unequivocally refuse to use screws in the construction of a frame house. You cannot do without self-tapping screws when installing locks, installing corners and hinges. Threaded hardware is needed when working with fragile materials that are destroyed by impact.
When carrying out finishing work, special self-tapping screws with a drill at the end and a wide head are used.
Such hardware is used to fasten drywall and siding panels. Using screws, you can attach thin sheathing strips by first drilling holes in them. The corrugated sheeting is screwed to the sheathing using special screws and rubber washers.
When deciding which screws to buy for construction, you should not choose zinc-coated products. They cost much more than ordinary hardware, but they also rust from moisture. It's better to spend money on screws from of stainless steel. They will last for decades without loss of performance. Stainless steel hardware can be unscrewed when dismantling the building.
Choosing nails
These products have centuries-old history use in construction wooden buildings. When a nail is driven into wood, its fibers move apart and the metal is tightly compressed. Even a smooth nail provides a fairly tight fixation of parts. In terms of shear load, it is almost impossible to break a nail. It may bend, but not burst. More likely, a timber or board will crack. To ensure reliable tear-off, it is necessary to use threaded or serrated nails. Such products work no worse than expensive self-tapping screws.
Let's look at what nails can be used on various stages construction:
- When creating a floor. As a rule, a multi-layer cake is created from boards and timber. Logs can have a thickness of up to 150 mm. They need to be fastened to the beams with smooth nails 200-250 mm long. Floor boards must be nailed to the joists using screw nails, the length of which is 2 times the thickness of the board.
- When installing the frame. It is assembled from timber with a section of 110x50 mm. Best choice To fasten such fragments together, 100 mm notched nails are used.
- When installing the casing. The thickness of the boards for internal and external cladding varies between 20-30 mm. The best option is to use 60 mm notched or threaded nails.
- When covering with clapboard or block house. So as not to spoil appearance cladding with hardware, it is advisable to use nails without heads. The length of such products should be 2-3 cm greater than the thickness of the skin.
- When installing windows. Nails are only used if window frames attached to the walls using plates. If a through fastening is performed, then long self-tapping screws or anchor bolts are used.
When working with nails, you must use hammers different weights and configurations. To drive nails 100-200 mm long, you must have a tool weighing at least 1 kg. Products of medium length (50-100 mm) need to be hammered with a hammer weighing 300-500 g. When working with hardware for finishing, a small hammer weighing 100-200 g is sufficient. It is better to buy nails in bulk.