Connection diagram for a three-key switch with a socket. Installation of a double switch block with socket Switches between the bathtub and toilet

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Connecting the switch bath toilet kitchen with socket

Switch block for bathroom and toilet

How much does it cost to install pipes? Replacing water supply pipes in an apartment, replacing pipes in a bathroom, the price of installing water pipes in apartments in Moscow and the Moscow region. Qualified specialists of our company perform the entire complex plumbing work related to the installation and replacement of water supply in apartments in Moscow and the Moscow region. Apartment water supply can be installed different ways. A collector or series circuit for water supply wiring, or you can use a combined series-collector circuit. And the laying of water pipes and sewer pipes mount open or hidden method wiring. The collectors are equipped with taps, which is very convenient, so each outlet can be closed independently of the others, which allows, if necessary, to easily and quickly shut off the water supply selectively to the required plumbing fixture in the bathroom without turning off the others. All pipe/manifold connections are located in the bathroom very compactly and in one place. Installation of such a water supply system is more expensive and is usually carried out using a hidden method of laying pipes. Hidden installation of apartment water supply pipes. This method of laying water pipes allows it to be carried out hidden installation in wall grooves, boxes, niches, channels, floor screeds and plasterboard structures. Installing water supply pipes using this method is more practical, which generally improves interior design bathroom, toilet, kitchen through which the apartment’s water supply system is usually laid. Prices for installing an apartment's water supply (without the cost of materials) We offer you the following most common options for installing water supply in apartment bathrooms; we have roughly divided them into three main classes: economy, standard and luxury. How much does pipe installation cost?

Everyone says that we are the best and give a bunch of arguments. supposedly the company will do it and disappear, but we have been working for 30 years. They say the same thing in the housing department...

Switch block with socket for bathroom

Such a failure, I changed the block: a socket, three switches (well, standard) to a block: a socket, 2 double switches, a bathroom, a kitchen, and a lighting fixture...

Switches are the main devices for controlling lighting. The most common is single, but if you need to control several lamps from one place, two- and three-key ones are used. The photo below shows a three-gang switch with a socket.

Three-gang switch with socket on the wall

Purpose

A triple or three-key switch is designed to switch three groups of lamps. This can be a combined lighting method, where it combines spot lighting with a central one, groups of lamps in multi-arm chandeliers, at different levels of the plasterboard ceiling, turning on the lights in the bathroom, corridor, toilet. Its advantages are as follows:

• saving electricity;
• compactness;
• beautiful appearance;
• control from one place several light sources in different rooms(in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen);
• the ability to regulate illumination by switching light sources where it is not possible to use dimmers;
• changing the lighting in the room if necessary.

Options for using multi-key switches:

• changing the lighting intensity of the chandelier;
• control of several lamps (table, pendant, wall);
• control of several lighting zones in one room (lamp, chandelier, backlight).

They also add a socket. The device in the form of a block becomes more functional.

Device selection

Since the choice is quite large, you can find a model that matches the interior of the room . The devices also differ functionally:

1. Regular switches.
2. Devices with an indicator that can turn on in the dark to indicate its location or indicate which key is on.
3. Pass-through switches. Installed in different places long corridors or passages, on stairs, different floors, etc. Through them you can control one or a group of lamps from different places.

There should be no scratches, burrs, abrasions or other damage on the body of the product. The keys should be easy to switch with characteristic clicks, and the terminals should firmly fix the connected wires. Self-clamping terminals work reliably and are more convenient to use. Just insert the wire into the hole and it will be fixed. It is important to remove it correctly if necessary. For this purpose, the device has special latches that can be pressed out. If you pull the wire out of the hole, the connector may become damaged.

Connection

The connection diagram of the switch depends on its type. On back side device there is a diagram of its contacts. How they are connected to the lamps can be seen in the figure.

Connection diagram for three key switch

Power wires are supplied to the distribution box: blue zero (N) and brown phase (L). 3 wires from the light bulbs are connected to zero. The phase goes to the switch, where it is connected to terminal (L). From the switch contacts it spreads to the light bulbs, closing their circuits.

The switch is always inserted into the phase wire, not the neutral wire.

Despite the fact that the connection diagram is simple, the following technology for installing the switch must be observed:

1. De-energizing the electrical network by turning off the circuit breaker.
2. Dismantling the old switch: removing the buttons, removing the frame, loosening the clamping screws, removing the housing from the socket box, freeing the wires. A mark is made on the phase wire that is disconnected from terminal (L). First, the voltage indicator checks for the presence of a phase on it, since the wires may be mixed up. To do this, voltage is temporarily applied. After touching the bare phase wire, the indicator should light up. Then the power turns off again.
3. Connects new switch according to the diagram shown on its reverse side. It shows the terminals for connecting the phase and the other three wires. The clamping screws are first unscrewed a little to allow free entry of wires.
4. The switch is mounted in the socket box. The block is fixed with clamping screws, after which the lining and keys are attached.
5. The correct operation of the device is checked by pressing the keys one by one.

In old-style apartments, two-key switches are installed to turn on the lighting in the corridor, toilet, bathroom and kitchen (in different combinations). If there are not enough wires to install a triple block, you will have to lay them additionally.

Separate double and triple switches can be installed for larger bathrooms and kitchens where there may be multiple lighting zones.

If a three-key switch with a socket is installed, its connection diagram differs slightly from the previous one. In Fig. Below are two different designs three-key switch (a – BVR3; b – BSU3), where electrical diagram identical (c). Power is supplied to the contact terminals (5) of the socket through a separate neutral core and phase, connected using a jumper from the block.

Block diagram of a three-key switch with socket

Position 1 indicates the body, 2 – keys, 3 – screw, 4 – cover, 6 – switch contacts.

Connection features

A switch with several keys and a socket is usually installed in one place - near the doors of the bathroom and toilet. The unit makes it possible to control lighting and connect an electric razor, hair dryer and other appliances used in the bathroom.

Block connection diagram two-gang switch with socket for power and loads

There are 5 connections made in the junction box (Fig. above). There is also a green grounding wire introduced here, going only to the socket. A lamp with metal parts also requires protection against electric shock. For this purpose, a screw connection is installed on the metal housing.

With a variety of models of a triple switch with a socket, the connection diagram remains the same (Fig. below). The unit is connected in the same way as single or double models. The power cable is connected everywhere to the input of the device, and the wires go from the contacts of the switch block to the lamps that match the number of its keys.

Schematic diagram of a triple switch with socket

The socket has a separate neutral wire and according to the diagram is not connected to the switch. They only have a common phase. All neutral wires from lamps and sockets are connected in the distribution box to the supply neutral. The phase is supplied to the common input contact of the switch. The contacts for the lighting sections are located on a separate block. From them, voltage is supplied to the light bulbs.

Before connecting, 10 mm of insulation is removed from the ends of the wires. To connect them, it is advisable to use NShVI lugs, which prevent the wire from breaking off when tightened with clamps.

The block is mounted in a wall niche using spacer legs or supports, after which a decorative frame is placed on top of it. The methods of attaching it can be very diverse.

Manufacturers

Many people choose triple switches for aesthetic reasons. If the room is decorated in an antique style, Fede models are suitable here. German Gira products have exquisite designs and are in great demand. Legrand models, horizontal or vertical, adapt well to the interior. Big choice switches are provided by ABB. Products are produced with LED backlight, adding functionality to aesthetics.

Combined switches are manufactured by domestic manufacturer“Kuntsevo-Electro”. A block made of durable plastic serves for vertical installation in niches on the walls. Issued following models triple switches with socket:

• BELLA BKVR-039 – with a socket without a grounding contact (Fig. a below);
• BELLA BKVR-212 – with red indicator light (Fig. b);
• BELLA BKVR-036 – with a European socket equipped with protective curtains (Fig. c).

Three-gang switches with socket

The switches have the following characteristics: voltage 220 V, rated load current 10 A. Models with a rated current of 16 A and with a grounding contact are produced by NPO Elektrotekhnika (models BZVRzk-S “REONE”, BZVRzksh-S “REONE”).

Installation of the socket. Video

You can learn in detail about installing sockets and replacing the combined unit BKVR-039 from the video below.

A triple switch with a socket is rarely used, but it is convenient when you need to control several light sources from one point where you need to connect electrical appliances. The unit is multifunctional and takes up little space, since three devices are combined in one.

Connecting a three-key switch is a little more complicated than a one-key switch. The difference is that it has three output contacts to the light bulbs. The unit's socket operates as a separate device, and a neutral wire from distribution box, and the phase is connected through a jumper from the switch.

Question from Vladimir:

Good afternoon Alexander!! Very interesting material and everything is intelligible. I ask for your advice, what to do when the phase is in two wires?? Today an old switch broke, almost the same as in your diagram, but there was no connection to the outlet. Kitchen, toilet, bath. There is a phase zero in the kitchen, separate toilet and bathroom. The house is old, Khrushchev. And the switch is many years old. So, I began to check, as usual, phase and zero. On the two upper switches (toilet, bathroom there is a three-wire wire and two phases and zero). I want to replace the switch with a three-key switch, but I can’t figure out how to connect them. If my explanation is not clear, I can send you a photo.

Answer:

I am writing this article some time after Vladimir’s issue was resolved. I was able to remotely understand how everything is connected to it and suggest how to replace it old block switches. I decided to publish the solution to this consultation, since I often receive questions about connecting such three-key switches and this information may be useful to someone.

I received a photo from Vladimir and then told him what and how to check, so that I myself could remotely understand his circuit. So, how it was with Vladimir and me!

The photo below shows his old switch block with a socket. This is a typical version of the Soviet switch, which still stands in thousands of apartments in our vast homeland.

Here without the lid...

And these are contacts with connected wires...

It turns out that Vladimir has the top two switches connected with a 3-wire wire, and the bottom with a 2-wire wire. The socket was not connected. After reading my article, Vladimir began looking for a phase conductor using an indicator screwdriver. It turned out that he had three of them, that is, the indicator on the screwdriver lights up from three wires. See the photo below - these are wires “1”, “2” and “6”.

In principle, this should not happen and we began to think about how everything is connected here.

If the top two switches and one bottom switch are connected by two different wires, then it will be correct if only two phase conductors come to them. One for contact “4” (see photo above) and a black jumper from it, the phase should be transferred to contact “3”. The second phase conductor must come to any contact “5” or “6” of the lower switch.

There seemed to be no questions about the lower switch, but there were questions about the two upper ones. How does this phase come to contacts “1” and “2”? Here, when closing the keys, the phases should meet on the contacts “3” and “4” connected by a jumper. How does lighting work then?

In fact, it turned out that the switches did not break the phase wire as expected, but the neutral wire. Then why does the screwdriver indicator light up and show the presence of phase on three wires “1”, “2” and “6”. After all, the phase goes directly to the lamps and has nothing to do with the switch.

By the way, Vladimir, I wanted to go to the place big block install this 3-key switch. In order to realize this, he had to show ingenuity and skill, and he succeeded.

I write to Vladimir the following:

Vladimir, of course we will succeed.

Your switches break “zero”, not a phase. This is of course not correct, but many places do it this way. You can verify this as follows. When you turn on the light in any room, the phase on the contact of this switch should disappear, i.e. The light on the indicator screwdriver will not light up. You can also unscrew the light bulb from the socket and the “phase” on the switch contact will also disappear. Check it. If you turn on the lights everywhere or unscrew all the lamps, then there should be no phases on wires “1”, “2”, “6”. In this case, the connection diagram for the new 3-key switch will be as follows. We connect wire “4” or “5” to the common contact. This will be the total incoming “zero” to the switch block. Wires “1”, “2”, “6” “zero” will go to the lamps.

Why does the light in the switch glow if it breaks zero? It's simple. A “phase” has arrived at one contact of the lamp. Then it goes to the light bulb, passes through its filament and through another contact in the socket goes to the switch. If you unscrew the lamp, the circuit will open and there will be no phase on the switch. Try checking this option with an indicator screwdriver.

In the photo below, on the back of the new switch, I drew a diagram of it and labeled the contacts with the wire numbers from the old switch to explain which wire goes where.

In the end, everything worked out for Vladimir and he sent me the following letter:

Dear Alexander!! I want to express my deep gratitude for your attention and responsiveness and say a simple human THANK YOU!! Everything worked out, I assembled everything as you advised. And now I hand over the work to the teacher. (My wife has already accepted my job). I am sending you a screenshot of my work. Thank you very much again. I am sure that you are doing a great job with your advice and consultations. When you are respected for good deeds, then everything will be fine in life. Good luck and all the best to you. Goodbye with respect Vladimir.

And I also want to say thank you to Vladimir for his kind words.

Good luck to everyone and remember that you will succeed! Thank you!

August 27, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high tech, computer technology, programming.

No one doubts that electrics are essential in the bathroom. After all, this is not only light, but also a working washing machine, razor, hair dryer and more exotic devices. However, few people know how to install wires with their own hands without losing their lives later. Or, at least, consciousness.

This happened to my relative from Krasnoyarsk. Having finished renovating the bathroom, he decided to please his wife and bought a washing machine. But there was no outlet in the room to which it connects (well, he didn’t think about it in advance).

As a result of his inept actions - knocked out machines, blown fuses in the washing machine and ugly black spot soot on tiles. Well, frantic calls to me asking for an educational program on how to properly make a socket and switch in the bathroom.

It's good that everything ended well. But I do not advise you, my readers, to make sockets in plumbing rooms by trial and error. Below are instructions, strictly following which, you will construct a safe and reliable utility network in the bathroom.

Specifications and Features

To begin with, I would like to note, although it is obvious, that a bathroom is a room with a specific microclimate, which is characterized high humidity and significant temperature fluctuations. And sometimes by the presence of a large amount of water on the floor.

Therefore to electrical wiring and the devices that are installed in it are subject to increased safety requirements. Moreover, regardless of whether you carry out the installation yourself or entrust this task to specialists.

The situation is further aggravated by the fact that modern plumbing units contain many more electrical appliances than when I first started working as a builder. Moreover, many of them are powerful, which requires more and a larger cross-section.

However, the fact remains and instead of complaining about the difficulties, you can simply make wiring that meets the requirements that I will discuss in the next section.

Current safety standards

Technical requirements for electrical networks are fixed building codes and rules numbered 3.05.06-85 and GOST of Russia 50571.11.

These documents indicate that specific specifications Electrical wiring and outlets in the bathroom are determined by the type of electrical appliances used.

In addition, there is a standard according to which it is recommended to make the wiring in the plumbing room hidden. This does not mean that it cannot be done on top. However, in the latter case, additional measures will have to be taken to ensure the safety of the people in the room.

It is very important to choose the correct cable cross-section, method of insulation and number of cores. I recommend that even before starting a bathroom renovation, you make a design of the electrical system indicating all connection points and wires, which you then show to an experienced electrician. It will help identify bottlenecks and shortcomings before you even begin work on the project.

Basic installation rules

If you don’t have the phone number of an experienced electrician, or at least someone you know like me, I’ll give you some tips to help you do your bathroom wiring in compliance with all safety regulations:

1. Choose a cable the required section . To do this, you need to calculate the power of all electrical appliances in the room, and then select the desired wire according to the following list:

• cable with a cross section of 1.4 sq. mm withstands 4.1 kW;
• cable with a cross section of 2.5 sq. mm can withstand 5.9 kW;
• cable with a cross section of 4 sq. mm can withstand 8.3 kW.

I think you are unlikely to need more if you are not going to install an electric sauna.

I prefer the three-core copper cable (even though its price is quite high). However, if your apartment electrical network is made of aluminum cable, do not use copper. These two metals will oxidize at the junction.

1. The wiring must have a separate grounding conductor. Although, to be honest, I recommend doing such wiring throughout the entire apartment. Otherwise, one day something happens in the house and almost all your electrical appliances burn out.

1. The junction box where the wires are connected must be made outside the plumbing room. I always install a box between the bathroom and the toilet, this makes it more convenient to connect forced ventilation systems.

1. Personally, I still recommend laying the wires secretly. This is safer and does not spoil the interior of the bathroom. But do not forget that electrical cables can be walled into the wall only in a protective corrugated casing.

1. To avoid defeat electric shock it is necessary to use an RCD(residual current device). This unit turns off the electricity supply to the bathroom in the event of an emergency.

Now I’ll tell you not about regulatory requirements, but about tips and recommendations that have been developed over years of practice. I think they will be useful if you are planning to install an electrical network in the bathroom:

1. It is very important to choose the right location of outlets in the bathroom. They should not be placed too low on the floor, otherwise water may get in and cause a short circuit.
2. All sockets through which electrical appliances will be connected must be located at a distance of at least 60 cm from the shower stall.

1. All sockets must have a grounding contact, to which the third (grounding, yellow-green) conductor is connected. Naturally, you need to take care of purchasing and laying such a wire in advance.

If the socket is needed only for connecting, for example, a razor (not washing machine), and you live in an old house, where the presence of a grounding conductor is not provided at all, you can use an isolation transformer.

1. There is no need to install sockets on cold walls, where water vapor dissolved in the air often condenses. In any case, you need to take connection points that are protected from water by additional sealing gaskets and covers. Their cost is slightly higher, but I would not recommend saving on your own safety.

Self-installation of sockets

I seem to have described the basic requirements to you. Now I’ll tell you how to install electricity in the bathroom, that is, install an outlet for a washing machine or other device of similar power.

Installing a new outlet

To begin with, instructions for those who are thinking about installing wiring before starting decorative finishing. Therefore, he has the opportunity to groove the walls, lay wires in them and install as many connection points for electrical appliances as he wants (naturally, he needs to take care of the availability of a cable of the required cross-section).

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. First, we draw a sketch of the future wiring. Immediately on it I usually indicate the cross-section of the wires to be laid and the location of sockets and switches. It is better to make several more sockets so that later there is no temptation to insert a tee or extension cord.

By the way, you can draw a sketch not only on paper, but also directly on the walls. To do this, I use a black marker, which then serves as a guide for cutting the grooves.

1. Having finished with the design, I move on to gating. For this I have a special device - a wall chaser. You don’t have to buy it, but rent it from a hardware store.
   As a last resort, you can use a grinder. Cutting disc make two parallel furrows, and knock out the excess concrete between them with a hammer drill and chisel.

1. Then I drill out recesses for installing cups for switches and sockets. Again, I have a special diamond bit for drilling into mineral surfaces, which I use.

You can do the following:

• attach a plastic cup for the socket to the wall and circle it with a marker;
• drill along the resulting line a large number of holes;
• knock out the concrete inside with a hammer drill.

1. The next stage is cable laying. It should be laid in corrugated plastic casing, which provides additional security.

I’ll immediately say a few words about connections:

• use cables in which each core is one wire (rather than many small ones);
• connect cables not with twists, but with solders, which are more reliable;
• connect all electrical system bathroom with a similar utility network apartments through separate machine(so that when short circuit do not deprive the entire home of light);
• after the circuit breaker you need to install a residual current device, the rating of which is less than the rating of the circuit breaker (I recommend using an RCD with a shutdown current of 10 milliamps);
• For the fan, provide a separate cable, which will allow you to install an exhaust unit with a humidity indicator or timer (that is, make it independent of the light switch).

1. Having finished everything installation work and having tested the system for operability in all modes (the presence of current in the sockets can be checked using an indicator screwdriver), you can begin sealing the gates.

Installing an additional outlet

Now the second option for installing the socket. This is when you have already completed the renovation of the bathroom, and only then thought about where you will need to connect the washing machine (or when the renovation is still in the plans).

The most enterprising will say that in this case there is nothing simpler than connecting the washing machine to the mains using an extension cord. I will answer that this method is not only ineffective and inconvenient (the bathroom door will not close), but also dangerous.

This raises the issue of safety, that is, protecting people in the bathroom from electric shock. To protect your loved ones from troubles, you need to do:

• a branch with grounding, which is carried out from the nearest distribution box;
• branch with a separating transformer.

Under no circumstances throw the “ground” onto metal pipes heating and other similar parts. And be sure to install a residual current device.

Conclusion

Connecting all the wires, sockets and switches together is easy. But it’s important to do it right, otherwise not only will you suffer washing machine, but also your loved ones. And this is already very serious.

I would like to know exactly what electrical appliances you use in the bathroom and how they are connected to electrical network. You can tell about this in the comments to the material.

As for other aspects of renovations in the bathroom and toilet, they are covered in the video in this article.

August 27, 2016

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