Woodworking table made of plywood. Making a workbench with your own hands

This carpentry workbench has a reliable frame, durable working surface and many branches for convenient storage tools and devices. You will make the main structure with your own hands in two days, and you will add various useful additions gradually.

Tools for work

To process solid wood and sheet materials you will need the following tools:

1. Hacksaw.
2. Electric planer.
3. Circular saw.
4. Grinder machine.
5. Drill and drill bits.
6. Clamps.
7. Screwdriver.
8. Pencil.
9. Square.
10. Roulette.
11. Brush.

Carpentry workbench frame

Take even pine boards without large knots with a cross-section of 50x150 mm. Dry the raw lumber: the lower the moisture content of the boards, the less likely the structure will warp. Considered carpentry workbench designed for comfortable work by a craftsman with a height of 170–180 cm. To change the height of the structure, make the legs higher or lower.

Table 1 - list of frame parts

	Name	Finish dimensions, mm			Material	Quantity
	Leg detail
	Lower spacer
	Upper spacer
	Cross leg
	Cover cross member
	Longitudinal leg
	Longitudinal drawer
	Bottom shelf
	Table top spacer

All elements of the base of the carpentry workbench are paired, so mark two parts of the same length on a 150 mm wide board at once.

Saw all the wooden pieces to length, with the exception of the spacers: it’s easier to cut the short ones already planed, and the long ones should be sawed off later “in place.”

Measure the width of the board, subtract the thickness of your circular saw blade and divide the result in half. Set the calculated size on the measuring scale and make sure it is perpendicular saw blade. Unfold the boards exactly in the middle.

Sharpen the parts and sand them with medium-grit sandpaper.

File the bottom spacers and sand the ends. After cleaning the surfaces from dust, apply glue to the small leg and to the end of the leg.

Squeeze the parts together with a clamp, wipe off the squeezed out glue and drill holes with a countersink drill.

Fasten the workpieces with 6.0x70 screws. Prepare the remaining legs of the woodworking bench frame.

Bevel the bottom ends to reduce the likelihood of the wood splitting when the workbench moves.

Prepare the joints connecting the legs with the longitudinal legs for gluing. Fasten the parts with screws, setting a right angle.

Screw all four legs into place.

Place the frame halves and longitudinal drawers on the floor, measure the length of the upper spacers.

File the parts and secure them with glue and screws.

Assemble the top frame of the woodworking bench on a flat surface. Fasten the bars with wood glue and 6.0x80 mm screws, drilling guide holes for them.

Collect bottom trim workbench, I use clamps and auxiliary boards for convenience.

Replace the top frame and level the entire structure. Connect the frame parts with screws.

Cut from sheet material 16 mm thick bottom shelf and secure it to the bars

Workbench table top for carpentry work

Use sheets of MDF, chipboard or plywood 16–20 mm thick for the workbench cover. Glue the slabs in two layers and get a tabletop 32–40 mm thick.

Drawing and arrangement of the workbench cover: 1 – edge strips (birch, maple); 2 – working surface (hard fiberboard); 3 – load-bearing slab(chipboard, plywood or MDF).

For the countertop, you can take sheets of chipboard left over from unnecessary furniture. For example, walls are suitable wardrobe. Take them as a base and add small pieces so that the carpentry workbench lid measures 670x1940 mm.

Place narrow slabs toward the back wall and toward the center of the workbench. Large sheets place in top layer countertops. Glue the cut pieces together.

Fasten the sheets with self-tapping screws, deepening them into the countersunk holes. Trim the edges with a hand-held circular saw 20mm from the edge.

Align the tabletop with the frame and secure with screws.

Sharpen slats for edge trims. Saw off the 45° bevels and cut the planks to length. Place a piece of fiberboard on the lid of the workbench, add a flat panel on top and secure it all with clamps.

This makes it easier to attach the pads. Align the ends with the edges of the tabletop and press the rail against the panel - the top plane will be flush with the workbench lid. Holding the bar with one hand, drill pilot holes and secure the parts with screws.

Move the device to the other side and install the remaining pads. Sand the slats with a sander.

Drill a hole in the corner of the slab so that the fiberboard can be easily pushed out of its recess when replacing it.

Clean the surfaces from dust and cover the wooden parts of the frame with stain. Place the fiberboard in the recess of the lid. If you are using pieces of material, secure them with double-sided tape. Place a carpenter's vice on your workbench.

Boxes for storing tools in a carpentry table

When filling the space under the cover of a carpentry workbench, use a modular principle. It’s easier to make individual blocks and more convenient to change them later when you need space for a new tool. There will be a certain waste of material, but the weight of the workbench will increase and its stability will be enough to work with power tools.

Scheme of organization of storage places: 1 – full extension drawer; 2 – spacious plywood box; 3 – chipboard container; 4 – wide box; 5 – compartment for a portable tool box; 6 – space for cases and workpieces.

Use boxes from old furniture

Select suitable sized junk boxes desk or chest of drawers.

Label the wooden elements and carefully separate them. Clean the glue from the spikes and eyes.

Trim the planks to width, removing worn corners and cracked grooves. If the original bottom of the box is flimsy, prepare thicker plywood or fiberboard. Make new grooves on a circular saw.

Assemble the box “dry”, adjust the parts if necessary. Clean the surfaces and glue the structure. Use mounting angles to accurately assemble right angles.

Once the glue has dried, sand the corners and sides of the box, securing it in place for ease of work.

Prepare guide strips and calculate the dimensions of the module.

Calculation of a block for three drawers

File the bottom, top and side panels. Screw the guide rails with screws.

Assemble the panels into a module and test the movement of the drawers. Place the block inside the workbench with supports underneath it.

Drill pilot holes, countersink and tighten the screws. Attach the chipboard to upper bars and to the legs of the workbench.

Install front covers on the drawers. Having marked the location of the housing, secure it with one screw. Insert the drawer into place and adjust the position of the panel. Carefully remove the drawer and tighten the remaining screws.

Secure the remaining linings - the module with wide drawers is ready.

Carpentry table compartment for portable box

The middle module is made to the full height of the bench to enhance the rigidity of the carpentry workbench. For the body take Chipboard thickness 16 mm and cut out two sides, a bottom and a lid.

Middle module housing: 1 – frame diagram; 2 – side wall; 3 – lower and upper panels.

Attach the guide strips to the sides, assemble the frame with screws and install it close to the right block.

Prepare the parts for the drawer.

Drawings of box elements: 1 – long wall; 2 – short wall; 3 – bottom; 4 – front trim; 5 – rail.

Use a circular saw to select grooves in the walls, which can be done with a regular disk. Set the cutting depth to 6 mm and the width to 8 mm. Run all four parts through. Move the saw fence 2 mm and make a test cut. Check the groove and adjust the stop if necessary. Run the rest of the workpieces.

Assemble the module and install the rails underneath that protect chipboard edges from chipping and providing a smoother ride.

Secure the front panel with screws and place the drawer in place.

How to make modules with convenient drawers

The design of the housings of these modules is identical to the previous designs. The retractable container placed on roller guides is made taking into account the installation gap, so its width will be smaller internal size housings by 26 mm (for common guides with a thickness of 12 mm).

Module structure and box parts: 1 – assembly diagram; 2 – back and front walls; 3 – front panel; 4 – bottom; 5 – side walls.

Before assembling the housing, attach the limiting bars to the sides. wooden slats and metal guides.

Installation diagram of guides on the walls of the housing.

Secure the finished module under the workbench lid.

To install the drawer rails, unclip the latches and pull out the small rails.

Fasten the parts to the walls. Determine the required distance from the edge to the guide yourself based on the specific design and the 10 mm gap between the wall of the box and the top panel of the frame.

Pull out the middle rails all the way.

Insert both rails at the same time, holding the middle rails with your fingers. If the drawer is too tight, take it out and try again.

Replace the front trim.

How to make a carpentry workbench drawer from plywood

Saw the box body blanks from 10mm plywood, and for the bottom take a 5mm thick sheet.

Scheme of cutting parts for two plywood boxes: 1 – front panel; 2 – rear liner; 3 – side wall; 4 – front liner.

Sand the workpieces with a grinder.

Make grooves for the plywood bottom in the side walls, back and front liner. Remove burrs with sandpaper.

Glue and screw together the parts of the front and back walls.

Apply glue to the joints and into the groove.

Assemble the structure using angles and clamps.

Fasten the parts with screws, drilling guide holes.

Assemble the second plywood box with your own hands.

Install a panel on the back wall of the carpentry workbench designed to increase the rigidity of the structure and to accommodate hand tools.

Cover finishing composition boxes and cut ends of particle boards.

Connect power to your homemade workbench and start filling the containers with tools.

Any welder or turner needs a workplace where he can work with metal: processing, sharpening, cutting, grinding. For these purposes, you need a mechanic's workbench. The main difference between a metal workbench and a carpenter's workbench is the metal surface, while the surface of a carpenter's workbench is made mainly of wood.

Main nuances

Most home craftsmen prefer not to buy a workbench, but to make it themselves. Firstly, locksmith metal workbench Doing it yourself will cost much less than buying it. Secondly, when making a structure, you have the opportunity to realize your ideas, and finally, if everything is done correctly, the quality of a homemade workbench will be several times better than that of a purchased one. With some simple metal manipulation, a few tools, and some welding and cutting skills, you can get a pretty decent table.

When manufacturing, you should divide the workbench into components (for more convenient assembly) and take into account important nuances:

DIY workbench

First you need to decide where the workbench will be located and what you can attach it to. If the structure is angular, then best option in this case, start construction from the walls themselves, and they must be strong.

This option is good because amendments to the design can be made along the way, but if the master is inexperienced, then it is better to use another option. Optimal solution— production of a workbench according to ready-made drawings. Of course, the cost of this option is several times higher, but the dimensions and material have already been selected and indicated in the drawing, which greatly facilitates the work.

The base is made of 35-gauge angle with a wall thickness of 5 mm. This material produces a stable structure. A 3 mm thick sheet is used as a working surface; under the sheet there are 60 mm thick boards, which ensures even greater rigidity of the structure. The table frame can be made from a thinner corner, since the load on it is minimal, and boards from 20 mm can be used. As for the remaining shelves, plywood is used as a pallet, the thickness of which ranges from 10 to 20 mm. Drawers are made of 2 mm steel. To make a bench, the dimensions are shown below.

The height and width of the vice table can be changed and adjusted to suit your needs. You will also need the following materials:

• Corner 35 mm, wall thickness not less than 5 mm.
• Angle 20 mm for the frame.
• For the support legs, it is necessary to make plates from pieces of steel sheet to secure the workbench to the floor.
• Plywood.
• Timber 60 by 40.

After the frame is ready, it is necessary to strip the metal. Then, in order to avoid metal corrosion, the structure must be coated with a metal primer in 2 layers and then begin painting. Wooden elements It is also necessary to prime and, if possible, varnish. Wood treated in this way will last a long time and will not absorb moisture and rot.

Once the boards are dry, they can be laid on the finished structure. It is advisable to drill holes at the beginning and end of each board and attach them to the base using metal screws. The sheet, which will serve as a kind of shield against hammer blows, must be laid on the boards and secured with bolts or self-tapping screws to the boards. You need to lay sheets of plywood on all shelves and secure them in any way. The next step is to make the boxes themselves from sheet metal.

After the sheet of metal has been made according to the drawing, its side parts should be bent and scalded. The structure should look like this:

Weld a handle for pulling the drawer to the front part. Before installation, you need to prime and paint it in the same way as the frame itself. Ready-made boxes insert into the workbench.

It should be noted that this workbench does not have any space for feet. This, of course, is not entirely convenient, but on the other hand, you can put much more tools and workpieces. You can immediately attach a vice to such a workbench, drilling machine and other equipment.

locksmith table

For those who have little space for a workbench, suitable option that combines a small locksmith table with workbench elements. On such a table you can place the most necessary plumbing equipment. The design looks like this:

You can make such a table for the workshop from a corner 60 x 60 or 70 x 70. The corners need to be welded together to form a kind of rectangle. You can put boards or plywood on the bottom of the table, but before that you need to drill holes in the lower parts of the corner to attach the table to the floor.

It is advisable to prime and paint the structure. If the table will be in a dry, heated room, then to save money you don’t have to treat the surface. The tabletop requires a sheet 6-7 mm thick, under which boards should be laid to dampen vibration from hammer blows and work with power tools. The sheet is secured with bolts or metal screws.

All sizes are purely individual and are selected by the master independently.

This design is good because it takes up little space, and even a novice mechanic can make it.

This option is made from square pipe and a corner. The frame is made of a square pipe, and the corner will give the structure the necessary rigidity and is used for edging.

Tools for making a workbench:

• Welding machine.
• Grinder with sharpening split discs.
• Squares.
• Roulette.
• Plywood, angle and square pipes.
• Screws and drawer guides.
• Metal screws and anchors.
• Paint for wood and metal.
• Steel sheet.

The structure must be welded in such a way that the second part of the corners, in which the boards under the tabletop will be located, can be welded onto its upper surface.

Now you can start making a frame from the corners for the table top. The corners must be cut into two parts, 2000 mm long. You will also need two 750 mm corners. All this must be welded so that the boards under the table top fit into the grooves of the corner.

In order to weld the tool sheathing, you will need two 2000 mm corners and 4 950 mm corners. To strengthen the frame, corners 950 mm long should be fixed in the middle and two on the sides. The panel can be welded to the countertop as follows:

The next step will be to strengthen the structure using corners. This must be done as shown in the figure:

It's time to make plywood boxes. The process itself is simple: the plywood should be cut into blanks with a jigsaw, and then twisted with self-tapping screws. Drawers can be placed on both sides of the table, and their number can be from two to three. It is necessary to attach the guides to the drawers, but before that, two metal strips should be attached to each side, to which the guides will be attached.

Once all the components are ready, you can proceed to laying the boards on the workbench. The board should be no thinner than 50 mm and 2190 mm long. If you can’t find long boards on the farm, you can get by with short ones 74 cm long. Before laying, the boards should be treated with “anti-bark beetle” to extend their service life. The metal structure must be primed and painted. You need to secure it on top of the boards steel sheet.

At the very end, boxes are installed, and the tool stand is lined with plywood.

The last step is to ground the workbench to prevent electric shock. You can immediately attach a vice to the tabletop, grinder And various devices. If desired, it is possible to run cables for sockets and additional lighting, which will make work even more comfortable.

As practice has shown, making a bench is a rather painstaking task that entails financial expenses, but the master will receive only positive emotions from working on such a table. Your work will become much easier thanks to the fact that all the tools will be at hand.

The general principle of the development of materials processing technology from prehistoric times to the present day is how to make parts for more precise ones using inaccurate equipment. And it all started with a workbench; prototypes of it are found during excavations of Stone Age settlements. It is quite possible to build a workbench, a full-fledged one, with your own hands, and this will not only save a significant amount, but will also simplify, facilitate the work and improve its results.

Three mistakes

Amateurs, sometimes, judging by their designs, very experienced, knowledgeable and diligent, sometimes make themselves workbenches on which, figuratively speaking, you can smash a tank with a sledgehammer. They take a lot of time and labor, and hardly less money than a good branded amateur workbench. Repeating industrial prototypes in a design for your own use, designed for intensive work in 3 shifts and a static load of more than a ton, with a service life of 20 years or more, is one of the typical mistakes in developing workbenches of your own design.

The second is neglect of vibrations. Not a clearly felt “game” or “recoil”, but a small tremor that significantly complicates the work and reduces its quality. Vibrations have a particularly strong effect on workbenches on a metal frame.

The third - repeat carpentry or metal workbenches; perhaps with some modifications to suit your needs. Meanwhile, there are many designs of workbenches for home/amateur work of various types. There are workbenches that are more or less specialized or, conversely, universal, temporary, made from scrap materials, etc.

In this article we will figure out how to make a workbench taking into account these errors, firstly, simpler and cheaper, in accordance with the range of needs and/or hobbies of the craftsman. Secondly, how to make a workbench general purpose or universal for special conditions use - in a cramped garage, for carpentry at a construction site from scrap trash, at home for small precise work, children's

About universal workbenches

Among the branded products, which are sometimes quite expensive, you can find “universal” workbenches in the form of a carpenter’s bench with a lid without a tray, a complete bench vice on a wooden cushion, and a clamp for their installation, like the one in the photo:

“Universal” factory-made workbench

This is a wrong decision not only because wooden table top carpentry work deteriorates. The main thing that is bad here is the technological fluids used in metal processing - oil, kerosene, etc. Wood soaked in them becomes much more flammable. Self-ignition is also possible; Remember, it is strictly forbidden to accumulate oily rags in production. A different approach to designing the tabletop (board, lid) of a universal workbench is needed based on the type of work it is primarily used for - fine or coarse, see below.

Work bench

In the West, amateur/home workbenches with a stacked table top framed by a side are widespread. Drawings of such a “work bench” are shown in Fig. Under the fitter, the lid is covered with a sheet of steel 1.5-2 mm thick and a vice is placed on the pad.

The bench workbench dampens vibrations well; It can be made from pine or spruce. But the design is complex, and it is inconvenient to work with long materials and furniture on such a workbench. Therefore, we will first look at how to make the most common carpentry workbench, then a garage and a mechanic's workbench. Next we will try to combine them into universal workbench and let's see what we can come up with on this basis for special needs.

Workbench composition

A workbench of “our” type (conditionally, since it is impossible to accurately establish its origin) consists of:

• A bench (in carpentry workbenches), or a bed (in metalworking benches), ensuring the stability of the entire unit and the ergonomics of the workplace.
• Covers, box-shaped or in the form of a tray, giving the work area the necessary rigidity.
• Shelves; possibly with a tray, nests, and stops on which work operations are performed.
• An apron on which the tool is hung. An apron is not a necessary accessory for a workbench; it can hang on the wall or be replaced with a cabinet, rack, etc.

Note: workbench height approx. 900 mm. The length and width are selected according to the installation location and type of work within the range of 1200-2500 and 350-1000 mm, respectively.

The lid and shelf are most often made at the same time, one-piece, and are simply called a lid, a workbench board or a tabletop. To dampen vibrations, the shelf is always made on a base (bed, substrate) made of wood. In a metalworking workbench, the bed is covered with a steel sheet of 2 mm thick and can be made of coniferous wood. Its overall strength is sufficient, and the steel tire protects the tree from local damage and the ingress of technical fluids. In a carpentry workbench, a bed made of high-quality (without knots, twists, etc. defects) solid fine-grained wood (oak, beech, hornbeam, elm, walnut) also serves as a shelf; in a workbench for the home, for the sake of simplifying it, without sacrificing quality, it is possible to have 2 -layer construction, see below.

The traditional design of the bench, on the contrary, is collapsible from the same wood as the carpentry shelf. This comes from the master craftsmen of the past, who transported their equipment from customer to customer on a cart. It is from the bed/bench that you should start developing your workbench, no worse, but simpler than traditional ones.

Bed: metal or wood?

Stationary wooden workbench has advantages over those on a steel frame not only in lower cost and labor intensity. Wood, firstly, is not plastic. Workbench on wooden base can be broken, but if the wood used is seasoned and impregnated, it will never bend. Secondly, wood perfectly dampens vibrations. The foundations of your buildings are not reinforced vibration-absorbing ones, like workshops in a factory? And the overall strength and stability of the home workbench frame will be fully ensured by commercial coniferous wood of ordinary quality.

Design wooden bed a workbench made of 120x40 boards is shown on the left in Fig. Permissible static load – 150 kgf; dynamic vertically downward for 1 s – 600 kgf. Corner posts (legs) are assembled on 6x70 self-tapping screws in a zigzag (snake) pattern with a distance from the edge of 30 mm and a pitch of 100-120 mm. Double-sided fastening; the snakes on both sides of the package are made in mirror image. Intermediate support beams are fastened with steel angles on self-tapping screws; the edge ones - with pairs of self-tapping screws at the tenons of the posts and, on the outside, with corners.

If timber 150x50 or (180...200)x60 is available, the design can be simplified, as shown in the center in Fig. Load bearing capacity will increase to 200/750 kgf. And from timber 150x150, 150x75 and (180...200)x60 you can build a frame capable of bearing 450 kgf in static conditions and 1200 in dynamics, on the right in Fig.

Note: Any of these beds is suitable for both carpentry and metalworking workbenches. Under the joinery, a box-shaped lid is placed on it (see below), and under the fitter, a tray from a 60x60x4 angle with welded 4-mm strips above the intermediate beams is placed. A wooden cushion is placed in the tray and covered with steel, also see below.

If there is no welding

All wood workbench, no need for welding work to make it, you can do it according to the following pattern. rice. The “trick” here is the tabletop, glued together from 75x50 lumber and fastened with ties. If the timber is oak, then permissible load– 400/1300 kgf. Corner posts – timber 150x150; the rest is timber 150x75.

Metal

It happens the other way around: metal is more accessible than wood, and welding is available. Then the workbench table for a load of 100/300 kgf can be assembled according to the drawing on the left in Fig. Materials – corner 35x35x3 and 20x20x2. Boxes are made of galvanized steel. Disadvantage - it is impossible to make an opening at the bottom for the legs; the structure will lose its ability to bear dynamic loads.

For a load of 200/600, a more convenient metal workbench according to the diagram at the top right, made of corrugated pipe 50x50 (corner posts), 30x30 (other vertical parts) and a corner 30x30x3, is suitable. The plank cushion of both workbenches is laid only across (bottom right) from tongue-and-groove boards (120...150)x40.

Shelf – steel 2 mm. The shelf is attached to the pillow with 4x(30...35) self-tapping screws, a pair at each edge of each board, and along the outer boards - in increments of (60...70) mm. Only in this design will the workbench show the specified load-bearing capacity.

These workbenches are already universal: for carpentry, the lid is turned over with the wooden side up or adjusted as described below. A bench vise is mounted on a wooden pad, but is not secured with a clamp. A collet anchor for an M10-M14 bolt is driven into the vice pad from below, and a through hole is drilled in the cover for it. A 60x2 washer is placed under the bolt head. This solution is convenient because it is possible to use inexpensive non-rotating vices.

For carpentry

The cover of a carpenter's workbench, unlike a metalworker's one, is tightly attached to the bench and is box-shaped for overall rigidity. The best option fastenings for a non-dismountable workbench - steel angles and self-tapping screws. The underbench can also be a steel frame from those described above.

How a traditional carpentry workbench works is shown in pos. And rice; accessories to it on pos. B. The bench board (in this case it is a separate device) is used to work with long pieces. The support in its groove is made from a wedged piece of board, see below. It is advisable to drill a longitudinal row of holes in the board and secure it into the sockets with bolts with conical heads. The traditional design of a carpentry bench is shown in pos. G, but – see above.

It is possible to reduce the cost of the carpentry workbench cover by making it 2-layer, pos. Q. Then high-quality hardwood boards will only be needed for the shelf. They lay it by laying the boards with “humps” of annual layers, alternately up and down, to avoid warping. The shelf flooring is first glued together with PVA or carpentry glue, tightly compressed with a clamp or wrapped with a cord; put on the pillow using the same glue. The lid skirt is assembled separately using glue and through tenons (inset in pos. B) and attached to the pillow-shelf package with self-tapping screws.

Carpentry vice

Solid wood carpenter's vices, front and chair, are now almost completely replaced by a vice with a metal screw clamp, pos. D; their device is shown in pos. E. Some comments are necessary here.

First, you need to place 2-3 steel washers under the head of the clamping screw, otherwise it will quickly eat through the cushion (wood 4x4x1 cm). Secondly, if the nut is not custom-made or purchased, then at least temporarily acquire a set of taps for the thread you are using. In this case, do not try to use a screw that is too thick for evenness and smoothness of the clamp; M12-M16 is quite enough.

The nut of a homemade clamping pair is welded onto a base with a diameter of 60 mm or, square, from 70x70 mm. It is not necessary to recess it into the clamp pad, this way there is less chance that the nut will break off when clamped. But welding will cause the thread to go ugly; you can’t get rid of it with a bolt. The thread of the welded nut will need to be passed with taps according to the complete pattern, as when cutting: first tap - second - third (if included in the kit).

Note: The nut welded to the base must be allowed to rest for 2 hours before passing the thread so that the residual deformations “settle down.”

Vise and joinery for mechanics

The vice on a metalworking bench is installed in the corner (see inset in the figure) so that as much of the dynamic loads as possible during metal processing fall vertically on the corner post. Location of cross beams and intermediate vertical racks It is advisable to make a workbench with a stationary vice slightly asymmetrical, placing them at smaller intervals towards the corner with the vice. The vice is also installed starting from the corner:

• A collet anchor is driven into a wooden corner post under an installation bolt, and a tall nut or threaded bushing is welded into a metal one (attachment point 1 at the bottom left in the figure);
• If the fastening unit is welded, go through the threads with taps, as in homemade nut carpenter's vice, see above;
• Place the vice temporarily on 1 bolt and mark the holes for fastening points 2, 3 and 4;
• The vice is removed and drilled through holes 2, 3 and 4;
• Place a vice on bolts 1, 2 and 3;
• For fastening to bolt 4, place a jib U from wooden beam from 60x60 or professional pipes from 40x40. It is not necessary to secure the jib, but it must rest from the bottom against the upper frame (frame) of the bed, but not against the table top!
• Finally attach the vice to bolt 4.

Note: Stationary power tools are also secured in the same way, for example. emery.

Under the carpentry

A workbench can also be adapted for carpentry work if you drill 2-4 pairs of holes in the tabletop for fixing the carpentry stop (on the right and in the center in the figure). In this case, round bosses are screwed to the lower surface of the stop with self-tapping screws; plugs from plastic bottles, they endure a tight fit many times.

Workbench for garage

It is impossible to make a workbench in a garage with an optimal width for the ergonomics of the workspace - the dimensions of a standard box of 4x7 m with a car parked in it do not allow it. The width has long been determined through trial and error. garage workbench 510 mm: it is quite convenient to turn between it and the hood, and it is more or less possible to work. A narrow workbench under a heavy load (for example, a motor removed for rebuilding) turns out to be unstable, so it is attached to the wall. Often - angular, this increases stability, but any wall-mounted workbench “resounds” stronger than a workbench-table of the same design

A diagram of the structure of one section of a garage workbench is shown in Fig. This design uses an ingenious method of additional vibration damping: cells of the lid frames and the bottom shelf of the edge farthest from the corner different sizes. The installation accuracy of the crossbars is +/– 1 cm. For the same purpose, the lid and bottom shelf are made of 32 mm thick laminated chipboard and covered with linoleum instead of steel. Its durability is sufficient for garage work; can be easily replaced.

Fastening to walls - self-tapping screws from 8 mm or bolts from M8 with a pitch of 250-350 mm. Recess into a stone wall is 70-80 mm; in wooden 120-130 mm. Propylene dowels are placed under the self-tapping screws in the stone wall; for bolts - collet anchors.

More for the garage

Another version of the garage workbench is already wall-mounted, and the wall-mounted one is on the left in Fig. It can only be mounted on stone walls. Bench board folding 2-layer; each layer of plywood is 10-12 mm. Opening for the machine with a stepped inner edge. In this case, a “milling machine” means a mini-drilling machine with a movable rotary table and a workpiece clamp. The design is convenient in that the shavings fall directly onto the floor.

If your car is something like a Daewoo or Chery with a 3-cylinder engine, and the garage is very small, then you can put a folding mini workbench cabinet with a lifting tabletop in it, on the right in the figure; It is also suitable for fine work in the home (electronics, precision mechanics). The tabletop is suspended on a piano hinge, the legs are on cardboard. To fold, the legs are tucked under the tabletop (it would be useful to tie them with a leg), and the tabletop is lowered.

Note: for a cramped garage with an ordinary city car, perhaps a folding workbench box would be optimal, see the video below.

Video: folding workbench box

Home station wagon

At home they are engaged in smaller, but painstaking technical creativity: soldering, model making, watchmaking, artistic sawing from plywood, etc. For small, delicate work, a universal workbench is suitable, drawings of which and its accessories are given in Fig. The durability of the working surface and its vibration absorption in this case are not as important as evenness, smoothness and some adhesion (“stickiness” of parts), so the tabletop is covered with linoleum. The bench vise for this workbench needs to be small, with a screw clamp fastening.

More about plywood

In general, it is undesirable to work with metal “roughly” on plywood, because... she calls back well. If the board cushion of the bench is made from plywood, then to its underside you need to glue a frame (frame) also made of plywood to its underside, see fig. Then it is advisable to first cover the upper (working side) with linoleum without a lining, and then lay the steel on it.

The younger shift

Another case when making a workbench board from plywood is justified is a student workbench for a child. Pedagogical considerations play a role here: let him learn to feel the material and not beat him too much in vain, but work carefully. For the same purpose, masters of the past deliberately gave their students bad instruments.

Workbenches for the dacha

When a country house or other light wooden structure is just being built, there is no time for bench intricacies; you need at least something on which to carry out simple carpentry work. For such a case, you can whip up a carpentry workbench for a summer house from scrap materials, on the left in Fig. The design is remarkable in that it clearly and fully embodies the principle: we make good things with bad equipment.

For subsequent work on arranging the dacha, a mini-workbench will be useful, on the right in Fig. With minimal material consumption and an extremely simple design, it is sufficiently stable for ordinary carpentry work in all respects, because the middle of the bench board is supported by a pair of struts. If you put them on bolts, the workbench will be foldable and stand in the pantry from weekend to weekend. For disassembly, after releasing the struts, the spacer is removed along with them, and the legs are tucked under the board. Finally, for a dacha inhabited permanently or all summer, with a craftsman owner, by the way, you will need a more complex but fully functional folding workbench, see the video below.

A garage is a multifunctional space. In it you can install and repair cars, design and make various things and mechanisms with your own hands.

If a person likes to spend time in the garage doing repair work, he needs to properly equip his workplace. A workbench is a multifunctional work table on which you can process various materials, carry out plumbing, electromechanical and installation work. Also in the design of the workbench, you can consider shelves and drawers to store tools and other items.

Types of workbenches

Workbenches are made for processing metal (metalwork) and wood (carpentry). The designs differ in the material of the countertops. For metalwork models, the table top must be metal, since working with metal involves the use of machine oil and other liquids that can leave marks on a wooden surface.

Also, when processing metal parts, force and the use of sharp tools are often required, so it is best to equip the workbench with a metal tabletop.

Woodworking benches are designed for working with wood, so they are not as durable or functional as bench models.

Workbench design

If the design of a work table for a garage is made by hand, then first of all you need to carefully think through every detail, figure out where the tools will be placed, what work will be carried out on the workbench. The model of the garage table depends on this.

Standard models are often equipped with drawers, which can be made of wood or metal. Also, the table design can be supplemented with shelves, a power shield for hanging tools, which will always be at hand. But most importantly, the workbench must be stable, durable and reliable.

Tool

Grinder with a circle for cutting metal and a grinding disc.

Welding machine and electrodes. Workwear and protective devices for welding work.

2. Screwdriver.

   Jigsaw for cutting plywood.

Materials

Angle 50 mm by 50 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.4 m.

Square pipe 60 mm by 40 mm, thickness 2 mm, length 24 m.

Angle 40 mm by 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.75 m.

Steel strip 40 mm wide, 4 mm thick, 8 m long.

Steel sheet for tabletop 2200 mm by 750 mm. Thickness 2 mm.

Steel sheet for making drawer holders. Thickness 2 mm.

Wooden boards for the table top. Thickness 50 mm.

Plywood for making drawers and for the side and back walls of the table. Thickness 15 mm

Guides for desk drawers.

Screws for assembling plywood boxes.

Self-tapping screws for metal.

Anchor bolts.

Paint for wood and metal.

The workbench, which will be made from these materials, has quite impressive dimensions: table length 220 cm, width - 75 cm. The overall design and large tabletop allow you to place a vice and, for example, emery or other tools at different ends of the table.

The first step in making a workbench is cutting the available material into elements. The profile pipe is intended for the manufacture of the frame. The steel angle is designed to create stiffeners. It is cut into pieces and a power frame is formed from it. Also, a steel corner is needed for edging the tabletop on which the boards will be laid.

The steel strip is intended for the manufacture of guides on which the side panels will be attached. This material will also be used for brackets for fastening boxes and plywood.

Table drawers are made of plywood.

The second step is welding the power frame of the workbench. The tabletop elements are welded first - 2 pipes 2200 mm long and 2 pipes 750 mm each. The frame must be welded so that another frame of corners can be welded on top of it, into which the tabletop boards will be laid. To reinforce the tabletop, it is necessary to weld several more steel pipes after 40 cm, which will serve as stiffeners.

Then 4 side legs are welded along the edges of the workbench. Their length is 900 mm. Power bridges are welded between the legs to strengthen the structure.

Once the basic frame is ready, you can begin welding the structure for the boxes. To do this, square frames are formed from steel pipes, which are welded to the tabletop on both sides of the table. The frames are reinforced with longitudinal stiffeners.

The third step is making a frame for the tabletop. Two steel angles, 2200 mm long, and two more angles, 750 mm long, are needed to make the frame. The structure is welded so that wooden boards fit inside it.

The angle frame is laid on a pipe frame and welded. The result is a reinforced tabletop, 8 cm high with internal stiffeners.

The metal frame of the workbench is almost ready, all that remains is to weld the panel sheathing for attaching the tool. This requires one metal corner 2200 mm long and 4 corners having a length of 950 mm. Two elements are attached to the sides of the structure and two in the middle for reinforcement. The tool panel is welded to the tabletop.

The frame of corners and pipes is ready. You can begin to strengthen the structure. Brackets are welded to the sides of the table, which are cut from a steel strip. A total of 24 parts are needed. A hole is drilled in the middle of each bracket. Using these holes, the side and back walls of the plywood table will be attached to metal frame workbench.

The fourth stage is making drawers for the table. Plywood is cut into blanks, which are screwed together with screws. The number of drawers depends on what will be stored in the table. If the parts are small, then you can build 3 drawers; if the parts are large, then 2. It all depends on personal preference.

Drawers can be placed on both sides of the table, or mounted on one half retractable structures, and on the second there are ordinary open shelves.

After the drawers are assembled, you need to weld metal strips with holes between the sides of the drawer compartments. To these holes with inside the slides for the drawer guides will be attached.

The fifth stage is laying the boards into the tabletop frame. Boards 50 mm thick are cut into pieces of a certain length. If you have a long board available, then you need three blanks with a width of 245 mm and a length of 2190 mm. If there are no long boards available, then you can lay the blanks across the table. For this purpose, wood 205 mm wide is cut into 10 pieces 740 mm long.

Before laying the wood into the table frame, it must be treated with an antiseptic solution. This will protect the material from rotting and damage by beetles.

Then it is imperative to paint the entire metal structure workbench. This will protect the metal from corrosion. It is best to use a weather-resistant and anti-corrosion coating option. Welding seams need to be painted especially carefully. Drops of metal and uneven surfaces are recommended to be thoroughly cleaned before painting. This can be done using an angle grinder with a metal grinding disc.

After the structure has dried, you can begin laying the boards on the countertop. They should not be driven too tightly into the frame. This is due to the fact that wood tends to expand and dry out when temperature and humidity change. It is better to leave a small gap of a few millimeters between the boards. The surface of the wood needs to be sanded, this will simplify installation metal sheet on top of the tree. The boards around the entire perimeter of the table are screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

The sixth stage is fastening the top steel sheet. It can be welded to the countertop, but there is wood inside the structure, which can ignite during the welding process. Therefore, it is best to attach the steel sheet with hidden screws to wooden boards. The metal must first be painted on both sides with a rust converter. This covering material looks like transparent paintwork, is easily restored and reliably protects the metal from rust. You can also paint the metal tabletop with the same paint that was used to cover the frame. It will be beautiful, but over time the paint may scratch and the table will not look very new.

The last stage is installing the drawers on the guides and attaching the plywood to the side walls, shelves and power shield in front of the table. This work can be called finishing workbench. After work with plywood is completed, it must be coated with a composition that will protect the material from exposure environment. Also, do not forget about the design of a power shield for tools. You can attach special hooks or screws to it, from which the necessary things will be hung.

To make it convenient to work at a workbench, you can attach a special lamp with a bendable stand to the power panel. In this case, you can optionally direct the flow of light to the desired location.

Video - The process of making a workbench

Installing a vice on a bench

A vice is an indispensable attribute of a mechanic's workbench. It is not recommended to attach a clamping tool that weighs several tens of kilograms to the tabletop itself. It is best to place a metal gasket 1 cm thick between the metal of the table and the tool. You need to drill holes in the gasket for anchor bolts. Then, in the same places, drill holes of the same size in the tabletop. The entire structure is fastened with anchor bolts.

Safety requirements for a homemade workbench design

1. If the garage area is not too large, then you can make a smaller table for plumbing work with your own hands. But it is worth knowing that the entire structure must be stable, not sway or budge with little effort.
2. The workplace should be organized so that nothing disturbs a person. When working with a vice, all unnecessary tools should be removed from the tabletop.
3. Corners and protruding parts of the table should not be too sharp or have cutting edges.
4. After repair work behind the workbench, you need to clear the workplace from metal shavings, drops of oil and other materials.
5. If a homemade workbench is made correctly, it can easily withstand a load of 200 kg.

Plywood for board

Video - Do-it-yourself workbench in the garage

Every home craftsman can make a carpentry workbench with his own hands. This work takes a lot of time, but the benefits from a well-equipped workplace outweigh both labor costs and investments in building materials. In this article you will find complete information on the independent construction of workbenches for carpentry work.

Carpentry workbench – workplace optimization

A comfortable work surface will be useful for any craftsman. And the carpenter needs an equipped work area more than other specialists. After all, he will have to tinker with large-sized workpieces, the length of which reaches 3 meters, and in this case he cannot do without a well-designed work area. Even a simplified folding workbench allows you to process timber or boards and assemble products from the resulting blanks. A large table top with stops makes it possible to fix the lumber in any position, processing not only the surfaces, but also the edges of the timber or board. A special vice will help secure workpieces during sawing, drilling or connecting several elements.

In addition, in the drawers and shelves of the workbench you can store parts of future products, tools and all sorts of household items. Moreover, not only a wooden carpentry version, but also a metal workbench assembled on the basis of steel corners can be turned into convenient storage. At the same time, a craftsman who is not too familiar with construction can make a carpentry workbench with his own hands, organizing and optimizing the space in the workroom. For this you will need general drawings or understanding the workbench structure, Construction Materials And step-by-step instruction for assembly. You will find all this below in the text.

Types and design of workbenches for carpenters

In modern carpentry Only three workbench design schemes are used. Firstly, the mobile option is a portable structure that can even be installed on a balcony. This model will also be useful for those craftsmen who want to get a universal workbench for metalwork and carpentry work. The main advantage of this option is its small size, the main disadvantage is small area storage You can’t put all the tools in such a table.

Secondly, a stationary workbench is an option for a full-fledged workshop. To place this model you need a spacious room, but it will fit into large garage. This workbench can be either wooden or steel - it is possible to assemble any structure, because there is no need to move it. The main advantage of the model is its wide functionality, coupled with ample storage space. The main disadvantage is the dimensions and the need for large volume building materials.

Third, modular design– workbenches of this type occupy an intermediate position between stationary and mobile options. The model structure allows you to extend and shorten the carpentry table, legs and other elements. Therefore, the main advantage of this option is the combination of optimal dimensions and functionality. And the main disadvantage is the complicated design. Building a modular metal workbench with your own hands is not so easy, and you may have problems with wood.

Eventually optimal model for self-construction it should be recognized that stationary option, since mobile does not provide all the benefits and modular is too difficult during assembly. Moreover, regardless of belonging to one of the varieties, any workbench contains the following structural elements:

• Support (bed, frame) - a system of vertical and horizontal beams that hold the tabletop, workpieces and tools.
• Working surface (tabletop) - in the language of professionals, this element is called a workbench board. All the necessary grooves and recesses for stops are made in it, which are useful for fixing the workpieces being processed. Therefore, such a board must be massive and reliable.
• The front vise and box are essentially huge clamping blocks that compete with clamps. They fix the workpieces at an angle to the plane of the work table, pressing them against the side edges of the table top. Moreover, a folding workbench has only one vice, while a stationary one has at least a couple of clamping blocks.
• Shelves are storage places that are located under the countertop.

And all these parts, with the exception of some metal clamping block parts (screws and nuts), are assembled from wood, which simplifies the selection of structural materials for building a workbench.

What materials are needed for assembly - getting ready for work

You can build a carpentry or plumbing workbench with your own hands only if you get the following materials:

• Plywood sheet with a thickness of 18-20 millimeters and total dimensions of 2.5 × 1.25 meters. Moreover, try to choose a perfectly flat sheet, without bubbles or dips on the surface - it will go on the countertop.
• Beam 10×10 and 6×6 centimeters. The frame will be assembled from these elements, therefore, we need about 4 meters of “ten” (for the legs and crossbars) and at least three meters of “six” (for the strengthening elements). At the same time, try to choose timber without knots and cracks.
• Boards 2 meters long - they will come in handy when assembling the tabletop. And upon completion of them you can.

In addition, we will need the following tools: a drill with feather and conventional drills, a circular saw(disk), clamps, glue Moment(for wood), square, level, bolts with nuts and furniture screws with corrosion protection. After all these materials and tools have been purchased and taken to the place of placement and assembly, you can build a workbench out of wood with your own hands, based on our step-by-step instructions.

DIY assembly - step-by-step instructions

Before you do it, try to read these instructions from beginning to end, going over in your head all the assembly steps described below. If you understand the entire procedure, then self-production workbench will take up a minimum of your personal time. Moreover, our step-by-step instructions are designed for people with minimal experience in carpentry. Well, the assembly process itself looks like this.

At the first stage we assemble the table. To do this, we shorten the plywood sheet to 1.52 meters with a circular saw and divide it into two parts. As a result, two blanks with dimensions of 1.52 × 0.61 meters remain in the hands of the master. They will serve as the basis for the countertop. And the remaining part 0.98 × 1.25 will be useful to us in the future. The next stage is gluing the solid workbench table from two plywood blanks. To do this, you need to lubricate their surfaces with glue and, folding the plywood boards, tighten them with clamps, and you can put a 30-kilogram weight on the central part. Moreover, three 1.5-meter boards need to be placed under the clamps, ensuring a tight fit when placed along the long edge of the sheet.

In addition, you need to take into account the fact that when gluing, the plywood sheets must be connected with their convex sides (when overlapping each other), otherwise the entire array will unfold into an arc, which is undesirable. Next we move on to strengthening the 36mm laminated wood. To do this, we need to cut strips 15 centimeters wide from the remains of the plywood panel and glue them around the perimeter, with reverse side countertops. The result should be a table 54 millimeters thick, consisting of three 18 mm layers of plywood. Moreover, the amplifier strips will play the role of stiffeners.

After this, we cut the array to dimensions of 1.5 × 0.6 meters. This step will allow you to trim the ends, eliminating overlays and protrusions that formed during the assembly of the tabletop from three layers of plywood. The trimming itself is carried out with a circular saw at low tool feed. The circular saw must be moved very slowly along the plywood, otherwise you will get torn edges. The next stage is the assembly of the vertical elements of the frame. To do this, we saw a 10×10 centimeter beam into four 0.9 meter long sections. We get vertical supports. And as the legs (the lower tie between the vertical beams) and the drawer (the upper tie) we will use a 6x6 centimeter beam, cutting out the corresponding grooves in the legs. The places where the legs and drawers are attached should be coated with glue and reinforced with bolts or self-tapping screws.

Next, we must install vertical supports at the location of the workbench and assemble the entire frame, tightening them with horizontal longitudinal ties. They can be made from 6x6 cm timber, secured in a tenon or overlap, with bolts or self-tapping screws.

We will lay shelves made of 1.5-meter boards on the lower screeds, and a tabletop on the upper ones. Therefore, before attaching the ties, we must trace the vertical and horizontal of the assembled frame. Otherwise, the table will be tilted. The tabletop is fastened to the frame using 8 mm self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be recessed into the holes drilled feather drill. Before fastening, the table is pulled to the upper longitudinal ties and drawers with clamps.

This completes the assembly of the table, and we can move on to installing the vice. Moreover, not everyone can make a carpenter's vice for a workbench with their own hands. Therefore, we suggest that beginners pay attention to ready-made models, the installation of which occurs in the following sequence: we screw the fixed jaw of the vice to the end of the table, and fasten the threaded element to it. We pass two threaded guides through the holes in the movable jaw and screw them into the fixed jaw. We insert handles into the heads of the guides; by rotating them, you can move the moving part of the vice towards the stationary one.

After completing the installation stage of the vice, you can use the workbench at your discretion. Moreover, round or rectangular holes for stops, you can cut them into the tabletop as needed, arranging them as you see fit.

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