DIY construction vacuum cleaner cyclone drawing. Homemade cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner: a guide to action

Article about how I did it homemade construction vacuum cleaner with a cyclone type filter. The performance of this useful homemade product for home You can appreciate it by watching a video of his work.

To demonstrate the work, I collected a bucket of sand. In general, I am satisfied with the result of the work done (given that this is a working prototype layout, so to speak).

I’ll say right away: this article is a statement of my history of creating my first (and, I think, not the last) homemade cyclone vacuum cleaner , and I am in no way going to impose anything on anyone, prove or claim that the solutions described here are the only correct and error-free ones. Therefore, I ask you to be understanding, so to speak, “understand and forgive.” I hope my little experience will be useful to “sick” people like me, for whom “a bad head does not give rest to their hands” (in the good sense of this expression).

I once thought about the upcoming renovation and the ensuing consequences in the form of dust, construction waste and so on. And since it is necessary to groove, saw concrete and “perforate”, the experience of the past suggested that it is necessary to look for a solution to these problems. It is expensive to buy a ready-made construction vacuum cleaner, and most of them are designed anyway with a filter (in some models even with a special “shaker”) or a paper bag + filter, which gets clogged, worsens traction, periodically requires replacement and also costs a lot of money. And I just became interested in this topic, and a “pure sporting interest” appeared, so to speak. In general, it was decided to make a cyclone vacuum cleaner. A lot of information was gleaned here: forum.woodtools.ru I did not carry out special calculations (for example, according to Bill Pentz), I did it from what came to hand and according to my own instinct. By chance, I came across this vacuum cleaner on an advertisement website (for 1,100 rubles) and very close to my place of residence. I looked at the parameters, they seem to suit me - he will be a donor!

I decided to make the cyclone body itself metal, because there were strong doubts about how long the plastic walls would last under the influence of “sandpaper” from a stream of sand and pieces of concrete. And also about static electricity when rubbish rubs against its walls, and I didn’t want the future homemade vacuum cleaner threw sparks at its users. And personally, I think that dust accumulation due to static will not have a positive effect on the operation of the cyclone.

The general scheme for constructing a vacuum cleaner is as follows:

The polluted air passes through a cyclone, in which large particles settle into the lower waste container. The rest goes through the car air filter, engine and through the outlet pipe to the outside. It was decided to make a pipe for the outlet as well, and the dimensions of the inlet and outlet should be the same. This will allow you to use a vacuum cleaner, for example, to blow something off. You can also use an additional hose to release the “exhaust” air outside so as not to raise dust in the room (this suggests the idea of ​​installing this unit as a “built-in” stationary vacuum cleaner somewhere in the basement or on the balcony). Using two hoses at the same time, you can clean all kinds of filters without blowing dust around (blow with one hose, draw in with the other).

The air filter was chosen to be “flat”, not ring-shaped, so that when turned off, any debris that gets there falls into the garbage bin. If we take into account that only the dust remaining after the cyclone gets into the filter, then it will not be necessary to replace it soon, as in a regular construction vacuum cleaner with a filter without a cyclone. Moreover, the price of such a filter (about 130 rubles) is much cheaper than the “branded” ones that are used in industrial vacuum cleaners. You can also partially clean such a filter with a regular household vacuum cleaner by connecting it to the inlet pipe of the “cyclone”. In this case, garbage will not be sucked out of the garbage disposal. The filter mount is made dismountable to simplify its cleaning and replacement.

For the cyclone body, a suitable one was found very conveniently can, and the central pipe is made from a can of polyurethane foam.

The inlet pipe is made with plastic sewer pipe 50 mm into which with the corresponding rubber coupling The hose included in the vacuum cleaner is inserted quite tightly.

The second end of the pipe goes into a rectangle, so to speak, to “straighten” the flow. Its width was chosen based on the smallest diameter of the hose inlet (32 mm) so as not to clog. Approximate calculation: L= (3.14*50 mm - 2*32)/2=46.5 mm. Those. pipe cross-section 32*46 mm.

I assembled the entire structure by soldering with acid and a 100-watt soldering iron (it was practically the first time I worked with tin, except for soldering boats in childhood, so I apologize for the beauty of the seams)

The central pipe was soldered. The cone was made using a pre-fitted cardboard template.

The housing for the auto filter is also made using galvanized templates.

The upper part of the central pipe of the air duct was bent into the shape of a square and the lower hole of the autofilter housing (pyramid) was adjusted to it. Put it all together. I made three guides on the sides of the cyclone can to increase rigidity and fastening. The result is something like this “gravity”.

For the garbage disposal and the engine compartment I used 2 barrels of machine oil (60 liters). A little big, of course, but this is what we managed to find. I made holes in the bottom of the engine compartment for attaching the cyclone, and glued sponge rubber onto the contact surface of the garbage disposal to seal around the perimeter. After that, I cut a hole in the sidewall for the inlet pipe, taking into account the thickness of the rubber cuff.

The “gravitapu” cyclone was secured with M10 studs and fluoroplastic nuts to prevent unscrewing due to vibration. Here and further, all places where tightness is necessary were connected with rubber seal(or rubber washers) and auto sealant.

To connect the engine compartment and the garbage bin I used latches from the military wooden boxes(special thanks to Igor Sanych!). I had to ferment them a little in a solvent and “adjust” them with a hammer. Fastened with rivets (with rubber gaskets from the chamber).

After that, for greater rigidity and noise reduction, I foamed the entire structure polyurethane foam. You can, of course, fill everything to the top, but I decided to play it safe in case the need arises to take it apart. In addition, everything turned out quite tough and strong.

For ease of movement and carrying of the garbage bin, I attached 2 door handles and 4 wheels with brakes. Since the waste container barrel has a flange at the bottom, to install the wheels it was necessary to make an additional “bottom” from a plastic sheet 10 mm thick. In addition, this made it possible to strengthen the bottom of the barrel so that it would not “squish” when the vacuum cleaner was running.

The base for attaching the filter funnel and the engine platform was made of chipboard with fastening to the barrel along the perimeter with furniture “Euro-screws”. To fix the engine platform, I glued 8 M10 bolts onto epoxy (I think 4 would be enough). Painted it. I sealed the perimeter of the filter installation site with sponge rubber.

When assembling, I coated the neck of the autofilter housing around the perimeter with sealant and tightened it to the base with flat-headed self-tapping screws.

The engine platform was made from 21 mm plywood. For a more uniform distribution of air over the filter area, I used a router to select a 7 mm recess in the area.

To collect the exhaust air and mount the engine, the plastic engine compartment found in the vacuum cleaner was used. “Everything unnecessary” was cut off from it and the outlet pipe was glued onto epoxy reinforced with self-tapping screws. Everything is assembled together using sealant and, using a metal profile (thick sponge rubber is inserted into it), pulled to the engine platform with two long M12 bolts. Their heads are recessed flush into the platform and filled with hot-melt adhesive for tightness. Nuts with fluoroplastic to prevent unscrewing due to vibration.

Thus, a removable motor module was obtained. For easy access to the auto filter, it is secured using eight wing nuts. The oversized washers are glued (the shrouds have not escaped).

I made a hole for the outlet pipe.

I painted the entire “pepelats” black from a spray can, after sanding and degreasing.

The engine speed controller used the existing one (see photo), adding to it homemade circuit to automatically start the vacuum cleaner when you turn on the power tool.

Explanations for the homemade vacuum cleaner diagram:

Automatic devices (2-pole) QF1 and QF2 protect, respectively, the circuits for connecting power tools (socket XS1) and the speed control circuit of the vacuum cleaner engine. When the tool is turned on, its load current flows through diodes VD2-VD4 and VD5. They were selected from the reference book due to the large voltage drop across them with forward current. On a chain of three diodes, when one (let’s call it “positive”) half-wave of current flows, a pulsating voltage drop is created which, through fuse FU1, Schottky diode VD1 and resistor R2, charges capacitor C1. Fuse FU1 and varistor RU1 (16 Volt) protect the control circuit from damage due to overvoltage, which can occur, for example, due to a break (burnout) in the chain of diodes VD2-VD4. The Schottky diode VD1 is selected with a low voltage drop (to “save” the already small Volts) and prevents the discharge of capacitor C1 during the “negative” half-wave of the current through the diode VD5. Resistor R2 limits the charging current of capacitor C1. The voltage received at C1 opens optocoupler DA1, the thyristor of which is connected to the control circuit of the engine speed controller. The variable resistor R4 for regulating the motor speed is selected with the same value as in the vacuum cleaner regulator board (it is removed) and is made remote (in the housing from the dimmer) for placement on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner. A resistor R removed from the board is soldered in parallel to it. The “on/off” switch S2 in the open circuit of the resistor R4 is used to manually turn on the vacuum cleaner. Switch S1 “automatic/manual”. In manual control mode, S1 is turned on and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) - S2 is turned on - S1. In automatic mode, S1 is turned off and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) – pins 6-4 DA1. After turning off the power tool, due to the large capacity of capacitor C1 and the inertia of the motor, the vacuum cleaner continues to work for about 3-5 seconds. This time is enough to draw the remaining debris from the hose into the vacuum cleaner.

The automatic start circuit is assembled on a breadboard. Switches S1, S2, dimmer housing (to accommodate variable resistor R4) and socket XS1 were selected from one not very expensive series, so to speak, for aesthetics. All elements are placed on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner, made of 16 mm chipboard and covered with PVC edging. In the future, it will be necessary to make insulated housings for the boards to protect live parts from accidental contact.

To power the vacuum cleaner, a three-core flexible cable in rubber insulation KG 3*2.5 (5 meters) and a plug with a grounding contact were selected (do not forget about electrical safety and fight static electricity). Considering the short-term intermittent operation of the vacuum cleaner together with a power tool, the selected cable cross-section is sufficient not to heat up. A thicker cable (for example, KG 3*4) is correspondingly heavier and rougher, which would create inconvenience when using a vacuum cleaner. It was decided to discard the device for winding the cable, which was in the donor vacuum cleaner, since the contacts existing there would not withstand the total load of the vacuum cleaner and power tool.

The top cover is secured with a pin and wing nut.

To make it easier to remove the top cover, the motor is connected to the control circuit via a connector. The motor housing and the vacuum cleaner are connected to a protective grounding conductor. To cool the regulator circuit, I drilled a small hole in the outlet pipe to create an air flow inside the engine compartment housing.

In order to be able to insert a garbage bag into the garbage bin, the top edge was covered with a rubber door seal cut lengthwise.

To prevent the garbage bag from being sucked into the cyclone due to air leaks through leaks, it is necessary to make a small hole in it.

The finalization and testing of the resulting vacuum cleaner took place when the repairs had already begun, so to speak, in “combat” conditions. The traction, of course, is many times more powerful than that of a household vacuum cleaner, which would not be enough for even a couple of minutes of working with construction waste. Relatively heavy concrete debris is almost completely deposited in the garbage container and the additional filter does not need to be cleaned for a long time, while the draft is uniform and does not depend on the degree of filling of the garbage container. Dust from putty (in the form of flour) is very light and, accordingly, is less filtered by the cyclone, which forces you to periodically clean the autofilter. The task of making a vacuum cleaner was not set and therefore no test was carried out for this function.

CONCLUSION and CONCLUSIONS:

The resulting device eventually turned out to be functional and has already been tested during the renovation of one room. Now I consider it more like a working model from the “will it work or not for fun” series.

The main disadvantages of this design:

— relatively large dimensions are not convenient for transportation in a car, although the vacuum cleaner moves around the room very easily on wheels. You can use 30 liter barrels for example. As operation has shown, such a large garbage container is inconvenient to clean, and a bag with a large amount of garbage can tear.

— the diameter of the hose can be increased, for example, to 50 mm and a hose from industrial vacuum cleaner(but the question arises of the price from 2000 rubles). Although even with the existing hose, the debris collects quite quickly, unless, of course, you try to pull in half a brick.

— it is necessary to make an easily removable mount for the additional auto filter and engine for more convenient and quick maintenance and cleaning.

— you can include a thermal relay in the control circuit (just determine the response temperature) to protect the engine from overheating.

Poor screening of light fine dust, which can be solved by introducing a second stage of smaller cyclones.

In conclusion, I would like to thank all my friends who helped with ideas and materials in the construction of this “pepelats”. And separate Thanks a lot my beloved wife Yulia for supporting me in my hobbies.

I hope my little experience will be useful to readers.

Very often after repair and construction work a lot of debris and dust remains, which can only be removed with the help of powerful vacuum cleaner. Since usual home appliance is not suitable for these purposes; a filter for which can be homemade is used. How to make a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands so that the unit effectively copes with the removal of construction dust?

Those whose work is constantly associated with repairs, construction and carpentry are familiar firsthand with the problem of cleaning the room after completion of the actual work. Construction wood dust, crumbling plaster, tiny grains of polystyrene foam and drywall usually settle in a dense layer on all horizontal surfaces of the room. It is not always possible to wipe such a mess by hand or sweep it with a broom, because when large area Such cleaning of the premises will take a long time. Wet cleaning It is also often impractical: the mixture of water and thick dust is even more difficult to wipe off.

IN in this case optimal solution – using a vacuum cleaner. The standard vacuum cleaner that we are used to using in everyday life will not work. Firstly, because large quantity garbage, the dust collector will instantly become clogged, and you will need to clean it at least once every 15-20 minutes. Secondly, the entry of large particles, such as splinters, sawdust or wood chips, can cause blockage or complete malfunction of the device.

A construction vacuum cleaner has a much higher efficiency than a household one. The features of its engine provide long work, and the presence of a long hose (3-4 m or more) allows you to clean a wide area.

However, industrial and construction vacuum cleaners are large in size, not very convenient to use, clean and move, and are not affordable for everyone. Therefore, many craftsmen increase the capabilities of a household vacuum cleaner by equipping it with a special cyclone filter. Similar dust collectors can be purchased in finished form, and assemble your own version yourself.

We make a cyclone ourselves

On the World Wide Web you can find many detailed diagrams and drawings of cyclones. Let's give an example of making a simple filter that can be assembled at home with the necessary materials, patience and a little skill. To work you will need:

• Any oil filter for small debris (these can be purchased at auto supply stores).
• 20-25 liter container with a tightly screwed lid.
• Polypropylene elbow with 45° and 90° angles.
• The pipe is about a meter long.
• Corrugated hose 2 meters long.

1. Make a hole in the lid of the main container. The width of the hole is adjusted to the polypropylene elbow with an angle of 90°.
2. Seal existing cracks with sealant.
3. Make another hole on the side wall of the container and attach a 45° angle.
4. Connect the corrugated hose and the elbow using a pipe. Tilt the outlet hose towards the bottom so that the air with debris is directed along the required path.
5. The filter can be covered with material made of nylon or other permeable fabric with a fine mesh. This will prevent large particles from entering the filter.
6. Next, connect the elbow on the lid and the filter outlet.

Of course, this is only a brief and approximate scheme for creating a cyclone. We present to your attention a video where in detail and on clear example shows how to make a filter from scrap materials.

We check the made filter for tightness, as well as for the quality of suction. Garbage should be collected at the bottom of the container or settle on the walls.

If everything is assembled correctly, suction will occur efficiently and at high speed.

During processing wooden blanks Everyone has probably encountered the fact that everything around them is covered with a large amount of shavings, sawdust and wood dust. To at least partially get rid of them, various dust collectors, chip suckers, filters and other devices are used. Many power tools and machines have their own dust collectors, while others have special outlets for connecting a vacuum cleaner.

In home workshops it would be better to use special ones. vacuum cleaner than a household one. Firstly, the engine is special. The vacuum cleaner is designed for more than long-term operation, and secondly, as a rule, it is equipped with a hose with a length of 3 m, which significantly simplifies its use with power tools. And yet, the downside of every vacuum cleaner is a small container for garbage.

How to make a cyclone filter with your own hands

Having set out to somehow simplify the work of cleaning a vacuum cleaner and reduce the cost of bags, I began to collect information on this issue. On the Internet I found a description of different types of simple devices in the form of intermediate dust collectors for a vacuum cleaner. Firstly, these are dust collectors in the form of a mini-cyclone. They perform their function well in collecting dust in a separate container, preventing it from getting into the vacuum cleaner, which increases the service life of the bags tens of times. The process of cleaning the dust collector from debris is also simplified. Ready-made devices are sold through online stores, but their cost is quite high with a very simple design.

Design. I decided to make a mini-cyclone dust collector myself. The author and developer of this design is considered to be Bill Pentz from California. Having developed a serious allergy to fine wood dust, he subsequently devoted a lot of time and effort to fighting both the disease itself and its causes.

The dust collector is a device, the main element of which is an inverted truncated cone, inserted with its lower part into a dust collection container. A tube for connecting to a vacuum cleaner is inserted into the upper part of the dust collector, and on the side, tangentially, there is a tube for connecting the hose from the tool.

When a vacuum cleaner draws in air inside the device, turbulence is formed, and debris, moving along with the air, is thrown back by centrifugal forces to the inner walls of the filter, where they continue to move. But as the cone narrows, the particles collide more often, slow down and, under the influence of gravity, fall into the lower container. And the partially purified air changes direction and exits through a vertically installed pipe and enters the vacuum cleaner.

There are two mandatory requirements for this design. This is, firstly, its tightness, otherwise there will be a sharp loss of suction power and quality of air purification. And, secondly, the rigidity of the container and the cyclone body itself - otherwise it tends to flatten.

There are tables on the Internet with drawings of cyclones for different particle sizes. You can make the cyclone body yourself from galvanized steel or plastic, or you can select a ready-made container of a similar shape. For example, I have seen cyclones made on the basis of a traffic cone (necessarily hard), a plastic flower vase, a tin horn, a large tube of toner from a copy machine, etc. It all depends on what size cyclone is needed. The larger the debris particles, the larger the diameter of the tubes for the connected hoses and the more massive the cyclone itself becomes.

Bill Pentz points out some of the features of his design. So, the smaller the diameter of the cyclone, the greater the load on the vacuum cleaner. And if the garbage container is low and flat, then there is a possibility of debris being sucked out of the container and falling into the vacuum cleaner. When using a container of any shape, it should not be filled to the top with debris.

Choice of material. I decided to use plastic pipes as blanks for external sewerage and fittings for them. Of course, it will not be possible to create a full-fledged cone from them, but I was not the first to try to use them for this purpose. The advantage of this choice is the rigidity of the parts and the tightness of their connections due to the seals. Another plus is that there are various rubber pipe inserts that allow you to easily and tightly connect the vacuum cleaner hose. In addition, if necessary, the structure can be easily disassembled.

For mine, to collect large sawdust and shavings, I made a cyclone from a ∅160 mm pipe. I used ∅50 mm pipes as connectors for the hoses. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the eccentric adapter from a pipe ∅110 mm to ∅160 mm must be funnel-shaped. I've come across flat ones, but they won't work - nothing will work with them, and the debris will get stuck.

Do-it-yourself cyclone work progress

Operating procedure. In the plug for the ∅160 mm pipe and in the body pipe, I made holes for outlets for hoses. Next, using a heat gun, I glued a piece of ∅50 mm pipe into the plug. It should be located in the middle of the cyclone body and be a couple of centimeters below the side tube, so it is better to first glue a longer pipe into the plug and then cut it in place during assembly.

I found complaints online that the hot melt adhesive does not stick to PVC pipe, and advice to weld parts using a soldering iron and pieces of the pipe itself. I tried, but didn't do it. Firstly, the glue stuck perfectly to me, and secondly, the smell of melted plastic discouraged anyone from welding anything this way, although the connection would probably be stronger and more accurate.

The difficulty of working with hot-melt adhesive is that it does not spread, and if you lack the skills, the seam will not be very smooth. I had such a sad experience - to straighten the seam I decided to heat it with a hairdryer. I got a smooth surface of the adhesive bead, but at the same time the plastic tube itself was deformed and had to be thrown away.

In the next step, I glued a spiral to the inside of the case, which should direct the air flow down to the dust collector. This solution was recommended by Bill Pentz himself - according to him, this almost doubles the efficiency of the cyclone. The spiral with a height of about 20% of the gap should fit tightly to the body and make one turn with a pitch equal to the diameter of the inlet hole for the side pipe.

As a material for it, I used a plastic rod, which I heated with a hairdryer and bent into a spiral shape. (photo 1), and then glued it into the body (photo 2) using a heat gun. Then I glued the side tube (photo 3), the inner end of which is directed slightly downwards.

Once the glue cooled and hardened, I measured and cut the vertical outlet tube so that it was 2-3 cm below the cut of the side tube, and finally assembled the entire structure.

The garbage container was made from hard plastic barrel, to the bottom of which I attached wheels - it turned out to be very convenient for cleaning it (photo 4). I cut a viewing window on the side of the barrel and closed it. acrylic glass on hot glue. I reinforced the connection from above with a plastic ring and bolts. Through such a porthole it is convenient to monitor the filling of the container.

I didn’t have a lid for the barrel, so I made it from a piece of countertop that had been waiting in the wings for a long time after installing a sink in the kitchen (photo 5). WITH bottom side table top, I used a router to select a groove for the edges of the barrel and glued a window seal into it to make the connection tight (photo 6). According to the rules, the hole in the lid should be made in the center, but then I would have problems with placing the cyclone in the workshop, so I made the hole offset. The lid is attached to the barrel using latches from a long-broken vacuum cleaner. I also used a hose from it to connect the cyclone. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that it is better to take hoses from vacuum cleaners. If you take, say, a corrugated pipe for electrical wiring, when you turn on the vacuum cleaner, a whistling and terrible noise appears.

DIY cyclone for vacuum cleaner

Connecting the cyclone to the instrument. Not all tools have an outlet for a vacuum cleaner. So I decided to make a simple, adjustable vacuum cleaner hose holder. For him, I made blanks for levers from scraps of plywood. (photo 7). The holder was supplemented with a sewer clamp for attaching the hose (photo 8). The stand was specially made to be large in size so that it could be secured with a clamp or held with a weight. The holder turned out to be convenient - I use it not only for the vacuum cleaner hose, but also for a portable lamp, laser level and supporting a long workpiece in a horizontal position.

After assembling the cyclone, I conducted several experiments to determine its efficiency. To do this, I sucked up a glass of fine dust, and then measured its volume that fell into the dust collector container. As a result, I was convinced that approximately 95% of all garbage ends up in the barrel, and only very fine dust, and only a small amount, gets into the vacuum cleaner bag. I am quite happy with this result - now I clean the bag 20 times less often, and only for fine dust, which is much easier. And this despite the fact that my design is far from perfect in shape and proportions, which certainly reduces efficiency.

Wiring. After checking the performance of the cyclone, I decided to make a stationary distribution of hoses throughout the workshop, since a three-meter hose is certainly not enough, and a vacuum cleaner with a cyclone is bulky and clumsy, and it is inconvenient to move them around the workshop every time.

Thanks to the fact that standard pipes were used, it was possible to install such wiring in an hour. I pushed the vacuum cleaner and cyclone into the farthest corner, and laid pipes ∅50 mm around the workshop (photo 9).

In the workshop I use a specialized BOSCH green series vacuum cleaner. After four months of using it in tandem with the cyclone, I can say that they generally cope with their task. But I would like to slightly increase the suction power (when working with a jigsaw you have to move the hose almost close to the cutting zone) and reduce the noise level. Since little shavings get into the vacuum cleaner itself, there is an idea to make a more powerful impeller and move it outside the workshop to the street.

I can also say that the suction power of the vacuum cleaner dropped a little when using it with a cyclone, but this is not very noticeable at work. There were doubts that static electricity could accumulate on the elements, since the entire structure is plastic, but practically this does not happen, although previously the hose had to be grounded when collecting fine dust.

Of course, when using professional pipelines with large outlet openings, this diameter is not enough. It is better to take ∅110 mm or more, but then both the vacuum cleaner and the cyclone must be more powerful. However, for my homework this is quite enough.

The vacuum cleaner hose was firmly secured to a small branch of the pipe ∅50 mm and inserted into in the right place wiring. The remaining wiring outputs are closed with plugs firmly placed on short bends. Moving the hose is a matter of seconds.

During operation I encountered one small problem. If a small pebble (my concrete floors have not been repaired for a long time) or another small but heavy object gets into the hose, it moves through the pipes to the vertical section in front of the cyclone and remains there. When such particles accumulate, other debris clings to them, and a clog can form. Therefore, in front of the vertical section of the wiring, I embedded a camera made of a ∅110 mm pipe with an inspection window. Now all the heavy debris collects there, and by unscrewing the lid it is easy to get out. This is very convenient when a fastener or small part accidentally gets into the vacuum cleaner. It’s simple here - I unscrew the lid, turn on the vacuum cleaner and mix everything that remains in the revision with my hand. Small particles immediately fly into the cyclone container, while large particles remain and are easily removed. Their quantity is usually insignificant, but recently I found a missing screwdriver bit in such garbage.

Also, the inspection hole can be used to temporarily connect a hose ∅100 mm. Just unscrew the lid and you get a finished hole ∅100 mm. Naturally, in this case it is necessary to mute all other wiring inputs. To simplify connection, you can use a flexible adapter (photo 10).

To remotely turn on the vacuum cleaner, I installed a switch next to the hose clamp (photo 11) and additional. It can be used to connect a power tool, then you will definitely not forget to turn on the vacuum cleaner before using the tool - this happens to me often.

I use all of these devices regularly. I'm pleased with the result - there is noticeably less dust in the workshop, making cleaning easier. During this time, I collected several bags of sawdust, and very little debris accumulates in the vacuum cleaner. I want to check the cyclone for collecting small garden debris and dust when cleaning a concrete floor.

I think this design very useful and affordable to make at home.

Sergey Golovkov, Rostov region, Novocherkassk

About filters.
The cyclone filter does not retain more than 97% of dust. Therefore, additional filters are often added to them. From English “HEPA” is translated as “High Efficiency Particulate Air” - a filter for particles contained in the air.

Do you agree that even you cannot imagine your life without such necessary equipment as a vacuum cleaner? They cope not only with dust, but also with dirt.

Of course, vacuum cleaners can be used not only at home, but they also come in different types: battery-powered, washing, and pneumatic. As well as automobile, low-voltage industrial, backpack, gasoline, etc.

Operating principle of a cyclone vacuum cleaner

James Dyson is the first creator of the cyclone vacuum cleaner. His first creation was G-Force in 1986.

A little later in the 1990s, he submitted a request to manufacture cyclone devices and had already assembled his own center for the creation of vacuum cleaners. In 1993, his first vacuum cleaner, known as the Dayson DC01, went on sale.
So, how does this miracle work? cyclone type?

It appears that the creator, James Dyson, was a remarkable physicist. Thanks to centrifugal force, it is involved in collecting dust.

The device has two chambers and is divided into two types - external and internal. The air that spins inside the dust collector moves upward, as if in a spiral.

According to the law, large dust particles fall into the outer chamber, and everything else remains in the inner chamber. And the purified air leaves the dust collector through filters. Here's how cyclone filter vacuum cleaners work.

Vacuum cleaners with a cyclone filter, features

Do not opt ​​for those models that require little power. You will definitely not like this kind of cleaning and most likely, you will want to throw away such a device.

Don't waste your money, but take a more serious approach to buying a vacuum cleaner. You just have to contact the sales consultant and he will help you with choosing a particular vacuum cleaner.

You should choose a device that is 20-30% more powerful than a bagged vacuum cleaner. It is best to take the one with a power of 1800 W. Almost all vacuum cleaner manufacturers produce models with this filter, which is good news.

Advantages of cyclone dust collectors

1. This has probably happened to everyone, when an item you accidentally needed ended up in the dust collector? Now this is not a problem because it is transparent! And you will always be able to notice objects that need to be pulled out of there as quickly as possible.

This is one of the most important advantages.

2. The power of such vacuum cleaners is maximum and does not reduce speed and power, even when the container is clogged. Cleaning is much more enjoyable, power does not drop, cleaning is cleaner.

This vacuum cleaner is capable of holding much more than you imagine. Up to 97%!!! Not likely, right? Although some are dissatisfied with this result, as they prefer vacuum cleaners with a water filter.

3. By buying a cyclone vacuum cleaner, you are not only making a good purchase, but also saving space for storing it, since its weight is quite light. You won't have to carry heavy weights.

4. There is no need to constantly change paper bags for the vacuum cleaner.

5. Power. She is not lost from fullness.

6. It can be washed thoroughly with water and dried.

Disadvantages of cyclone dust collectors

1. One of the disadvantages of these vacuum cleaners is not very pleasant. This is washing and cleaning the filter. Of course, you won’t have to clean the container with a brush every day, but still, this is one of the disadvantages. Laziness is present in every person. Yes, of course it’s unpleasant to face the fact that you need to get your hands dirty.

2. Noise. The noise from this type of vacuum cleaner is much greater than from a regular one.

3. Energy consumption. It is also much higher than that of a conventional vacuum cleaner. It's a small tornado.

It's up to you to decide whether to buy this little miracle or not. In fact, all its advantages outweigh its few shortcomings. A clean house is much nicer than a half-finished tidy, wouldn’t you agree?

Personal impressions

Compared to an old vacuum cleaner, the cyclonic dust collector looks quite modest in size. It is impossible to believe that such a little thing is capable of something serious. Now old vacuum cleaner Can only be used for wet cleaning.

When I use it for the first time, I take out the accessories, insert a small diameter pipe, turn on the device, and what’s really surprising is that the brush cleans the carpets much better than my previous assistant.

He cleans everything. Dirt, hair from our pets. Previously, you had to make a lot of effort to cope with such “now little things”.

I have laminated flooring in my hallway and it was just as easy to clean. The fact is that I have another brush in stock, tougher than the previous one for carpets, so I coped with this task so easily. You know, the sound of this vacuum cleaner is not as loud as they wrote about it on the Internet.

I am pleased with this device because it is light and not so loud. I also liked the compartment for storing all the necessary attachments; it is very convenient that it is built into the vacuum cleaner itself.

Once I knew what this little tornado could do, it was time to clean out the container. Thank God, when I started emptying the dust collector, it fell in dense, large clumps.

Since the debris was compacted by the air flow. No clouds of dust were visible, and it did not rise into the air! So I finished my first cleaning with my cyclonic vacuum cleaner. I rinsed the container and that was the end of the cleaning!

Cyclone for vacuum cleaner photo

All vacuum cleaners are designed for one purpose - cleanliness. This applies to all vacuum cleaners.
Industrial and construction vacuum cleaners are usually used on machines or for cleaning any premises. These vacuum cleaners are quite expensive, since the operating principle of the cyclone filter vacuum cleaner must be selected carefully.
You should also know that industrial devices are most often used during repairs and construction. Leave yours workplace needs to be clean.

DIY cyclone, from transparent plastic video

Construction work is carried out after preparing it and cleaning the surface. As you understand, General cleaning impossible to do with a regular vacuum cleaner. In other words, this is fraught with damage to the device.
Even small debris such as sand, oil, dry mixtures, powdered abrasives and wood shavings are designed only for an industrial vacuum cleaner.
If you suddenly go to choose a vacuum cleaner for construction work, be sure to check the types of contaminants that it will encounter.
Are you planning to use a vacuum cleaner in a repair environment? Then consider the DIY cyclone vacuum cleaner option. There are many examples of how you can make this kind of vacuum cleaner.

DIY cyclone for vacuum cleaner

1. In order to make such a vacuum cleaner yourself, you will need a Ural PN-600 Vacuum Cleaner, a plastic bucket (even suitable for paint), a pipe 20 cm long and 4 cm in diameter.
2. The nameplate is also unscrewed, and the holes need to be sealed.
3. The pipe is quite thick and will not fit into the hole, so you need to grind off the rivets using a grinder and remove the pipe fastenings. Before doing this, remove the springs with clamps. Wrap electrical tape around the plug and insert it onto the plug.
4. At the bottom, make a hole in the middle with a drill. Then expand it to 43 mm with a special tool.
5. To seal it, cut out gaskets with a diameter of 4 mm.
6. Then you need to put everything together, the bucket lid, gasket, centering pipe.
7. Now we need self-tapping screws 10 mm long and 4.2 mm in diameter. You will need 20 self-tapping screws.
8. Cut a hole from the side of the bucket along the suction pipe. The cutout angle should be 10-15 degrees.
9. We try on and edit the shape of the hole using special scissors that cut for metal.
10. Don’t forget that you need to try on the inside too. Also leave strips on the inside for self-tapping screws.
11. Using a marker, mark the hole in the bucket and trim off the excess material with scissors. Attach the pipe to the outside of the bucket.
12. To seal everything you need to use a 30x bandage. From an ordinary first aid kit and glue like “titanium” for polystyrene foam. Wrap a bandage around the pipe and soak it with glue. Preferably more than once!
13. While the glue is drying, you can check how this vacuum cleaner will work. Turn on the vacuum cleaner and load it, blocking the nozzle with your palm. When checking the operation of the vacuum cleaner, the process of sealing and connection with the pipe is improved. It is unlikely that he will soon become obsolete.
14. It is best to store the vacuum cleaner in a case.

Cyclonic designs of household vacuum cleaners are considered one of the most good options technology in terms of operational efficiency.

The cyclone system is a relatively simple separation mechanism that makes it possible to effectively filter suspended particles present in the air stream.

Based on the theoretical principles of constructing such a system, it is quite possible to create a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner, acting as additional tool– for example, a construction separator.

Externally, a cyclone separator can be characterized as a cylindrical vessel, the lower part of which has a cone-shaped design. The upper part of the vessel contains two openings - inlet and outlet, through which the air flow enters and exits, respectively.

At the bottom of the vessel - along the edge of the conical part - there is also a hole through which the sifted (filtered) debris comes out.

One of the upper holes (inlet) is equipped with a channel, due to which the incoming air flow enters the cyclone along a tangential line.

Considering cylindrical shape design, the incoming flow moves in a circle, creating a vortex effect. The resulting centrifugal force throws suspended particles contained in the flow to the periphery.

Classic design of a cyclone separator: inlet and outlet channels, housing (cylindrical conical) of the upper and lower cyclone; filter and waste bin

The other hole, the outlet, also has a channel, but located strictly perpendicular to the incoming channel.

Thanks to this arrangement of the second channel, the air movement changes from a vortex state to a strictly vertical one, which eliminates the capture of already screened suspended particles.

In turn, the screened particles of debris, once on the periphery, move down along the walls of the vessel, reach the conical part and through the outlet hole enter the garbage collector. This, in fact, is the simplest operating principle of a cyclone separator.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a cyclone

It is quite easy to make a cyclone from suitable materials yourself. Such a separate filter can be successfully used, for example, as an additional accessory to a construction tool:

• jigsaw;
• hammer drill;
• electric drills, etc.

The operation of such construction tools is often accompanied by a significant release of dust and small particles of various types.

Meanwhile modern designs construction tools are equipped with a special channel for removing working waste directly during operation.

One of the many different construction vacuum cleaner designs, where a cyclone filter is used as an additional accessory. An efficient tool for clean work

But in order to use this channel, you need a cyclone or, in extreme cases, a vacuum cleaner specifically designed for construction purposes.

Execution options homemade cyclone may be different. It all depends on the one used material base and the performer’s vision of the project.

However, in any case, it is necessary to adhere to the technological criteria that determine correct work separator:

1. Body shape.
2. Location of input and output channels.
3. Proportions in the sizes of components.

That is, the cyclone design must provide both the flow swirling effect and effective waste separation. Let's look at a step-by-step do-it-yourself execution of one of the possible projects.

Step 1 - Tools and Basic Materials

Of the materials required for the production of a cyclone, you will need:

• plastic plumbing pipe 125-150 mm long, 50 mm in diameter;
• plastic plumbing corner 30º;
• two plastic buckets for 10 and 5 liters;
• sheet plywood;
• standard vacuum cleaner hose.

The set of tools for making a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner and assembling it yourself includes: an electric drill with a set of drills (including a 50 mm crown); electric jigsaw; measuring and drawing tools; screwdrivers, knife, clamp.

Step 2 - making the body and other parts

The first step is to make the cylindrical part. For this, a small (five-liter) plastic bucket is used. The upper part of the bucket, made in the form of a side, is cut off taking into account the remaining smooth edges along the cut line.

Carrying out markings for making a ring that will act as a collar cylindrical part(housing) of the future cyclone separator

The resulting cylindrical container, resembling a small cone, is turned upside down, placed on a sheet of plywood and outlined in diameter.

Stepping back from the marked circle 30 mm to the periphery, mark another circle. Then a ring is cut out according to the markings.

Next, you need to cut out the shaped element, for which you use a wood cutting bit with a diameter of 50 mm and an electric jigsaw. The outer diameter of the hub of the figured element is equal to internal diameter previously cut ring.

This is roughly what the finished components look like after completion: preparatory work how to make a cyclone with your own hands from widely used materials

As a result of the work carried out, two parts (as in the picture above) of the future cyclone separator, made of sheet plywood, are obtained.

Step 3 - connecting the workpieces to the cylinder

At this stage, a ring cut from plywood is put on and secured along the line of the upper edge on the cylindrical vessel prepared earlier from a small bucket.

Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws evenly around the entire circumference. The joints between the ring and the bucket in a circle are carefully sealed.

Fastening the plywood ring to the body of the small cyclone cylinder. It is advisable to pre-mark the holes and drill to a shallow depth for greater ease of screwing in the screws

The installed plywood ring must be supplemented on the side of the open part of the cylinder with a lid from a large plastic bucket.

But first, the lid should be marked and a hole cut exactly in the center, equal in diameter to the inner diameter of the plywood ring. Place the cut out part of the lid on the ring and secure it.

Laying a blank made from the lid of a large plastic bucket onto the plane of a plywood ring. It turns out to be a kind of connecting element of the cyclone separator with the waste container

Step 4 - installation of the inlet pipe

The inlet pipe is mounted in the bottom area of ​​the prepared cylinder. Considering that when fully assembled, the small cylinder will be upside down, the pipe will be at the top point of the cyclone.

Having retreated approximately 10 mm from the plane of the bottom, a hole of 50 mm is cut using a crown. In order for the plumbing corner to fit tightly, the shape of the hole is adjusted to fit the “drop”.

Making a cyclone inlet channel using a plumbing angle. The use of an angle allows you to set the direction of flow strictly tangentially relative to the wall of the cyclone cylinder

The plumbing corner is treated with sealant, installed in the hole and fixed with self-tapping screws.

A similar operation is carried out to install the second outlet pipe. This is a segment plumbing pipe 100-150 mm, which is installed directly in the center of the bottom of the small cylinder.

As a result, after the measures taken, you should get a structure like the one in the picture below:

Making an outlet channel using a piece of plumbing pipe with a diameter of 50 mm. To strengthen the support of the channel during installation, a wooden overlay is used

For strength, the plumbing pipe is equipped with an additional shell made of plywood. It is advisable to make two such elements and install them on both sides of the bottom. After installation, tighten the dies with self-tapping screws. Of course, don’t forget to apply sealant at the joints.

Step 5 - installation of the figured element

One of important points assembling a cyclone with your own hands - installing a figured element previously made from a sheet of plywood. It is thanks to this element that an environment is formed inside the small cylinder of the cyclone that promotes effective separation.

The shaped element is mounted at a distance of approximately 10 mm from the edge of the open area of ​​the cylinder. In this case, the plane of the shaped plate, directed inside the cylinder, should not be in contact with the outlet pipe.

The distance between the end edge of the pipe and the plane of the figure is 25-30 mm, but it is permissible to experimentally select the optimal distance.

Installation of a figured element - a plate cut from a sheet of plywood. During operation of the cyclone, this element performs a kind of cut-off function, preventing the capture of debris from the garbage container

After installing the plate strictly parallel to the bottom of the small cylinder, fastening is done with the same screws from the outer part of the cylinder, screwing the screws into the area tightly adjacent to the inner wall. Three or four screws are enough. It is not necessary to use sealant here.

Step 6 - complete assembly of the cyclone separator

Actually, after the installation of the figured plate is completed, the cyclone structure is actually assembled. All that remains is to “plant” the completed assembly of the small cylinder on the top of a large plastic bucket.

A fully assembled cyclone separator, made with your own hands from scrap materials. The design provides volumetric collection of construction waste and can be successfully used in everyday practice

The tight fit in this case is ensured by part of the area of ​​the lid of the large bucket, which was previously mounted on the lower plane of the plywood ring of the small cylinder.

As can be seen from the measuring tape, the total height of the structure is a little more than 50 cm. At the same time, the garbage collection (lower part) is quite voluminous.

Subtleties of connecting a homemade cyclone

A self-assembled cyclone (filter for construction purposes) is connected for operation in a simple way.

The input (side) channel is connected by a corrugated flexible hose or other similar accessory to a working tool, for example, to the channel of an electric jigsaw.

The output channel (upper pipe) is connected directly to the input socket of the vacuum cleaner instead of the working nozzle.

Connection diagram - connecting the cyclone in pairs to household vacuum cleaner and construction tools, the design of which supports the function of debris suction

First, the vacuum cleaner is put into operation, then it is used for the necessary purposes. construction tool. As a result, the action being performed, for example, cutting a board electric jigsaw, passes without ejection of chips and fine dust into environment.

The by-product of the operation is completely sent to the cyclone separator where it is properly filtered.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

About how to build another one with your own hands - more simple design cyclone, the video below clearly shows and explains.

The author uses this homemade system in everyday practice and is extremely satisfied. A cyclone separator, made from an ordinary bucket, helps to work in clean conditions during economic and construction work:

Self-assembly of a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner is acceptable and quite possible. Moreover, there are projects of similar “homemade” systems that can actually be made, if not in 2 minutes, then in a couple of hours. The resulting cyclone homemade production really worth spending some time making. Costs are fully reimbursed.

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