A suspended hoist in a garage is used as a lifting device. The equipment helps to move heavy objects and make car repairs more convenient. Armed with the necessary components, you can assemble the hoist with your own hands.
A lifting hoist, also called a hoist, can be manual or electrically driven for automated use. According to technical characteristics, the equipment is a mechanism for lifting and moving various loads, including car parts.
The mobile trolley can be placed in any room, regardless of the available space and ceiling height. Depending on the type of design, the load capacity can reach 10 tons. A standard hoist is capable of lifting loads to a height of up to 12 m. The structure consists of the following elements:
- chain hoist, consisting of several blocks connected to each other;
- cylindrical coaxial gearbox;
- disc braking system;
- output shaft;
- hanger with hook.
Where is it used?
The lifting device is used to move loads of various sizes and weights. These could be objects household appliances, metal constructions and automobile spare parts. IN production premises equipment is used to lift loads and place them on top shelves.
Manual hoists are widely used during repair and construction work when there is a need to lift tools and heavy materials.
Varieties of hoist designs
There are several types of design that differ in installation method, design features, control option and others. technical characteristics. Choosing suitable option equipment for the garage, it is necessary to take into account the individual needs and parameters of the room.
Manually driven
Hand hoists are used to lift objects onto small height. The lifting capacity of manually operated equipment varies from 1 to 8 tons. The traction force on the lifting mechanism is 30-65 kgf, which provides a speed of 0.3 to 0.1 m/min. The weight of the structure depends on the material and additional components and ranges from 50 to 400 kg.
Gear manual
Chain hoists with a gear mechanism are used to perform installation work within a garage or in an open space. The equipment is controlled at the load securing point. Gear models are equipped with a hanging hook and are easy to install and operate. Design features gear hoists allow them to be used as independent equipment or as a lifting element for cranes.
Lever
The manually operated lever hoist is equipped with a hanging hook and can be secured to support beams or wire rope. The manual operating principle ensures independence from the presence of electricity. The design provides a locking mechanism for fixing objects in a suspended state.
Worm
Worm hoists, by analogy with other varieties, are used to lift and lower loads. When picking additional elements worm hoists can move objects along an I-beam monorail track. You can hang a stationary hoist on a hook manually or make a complete version connected to a mobile trolley.
How to make a homemade manual hoist: step-by-step instructions
When making a manual hoist yourself, just follow step by step instructions. Equipment can be crafted by following these steps:
- Weld the faucet legs to the I-pipe.
- Position metal corners at 45 degrees to create stiffening ribs that secure the rack. The bulk of the load being lifted falls on this rack, so for additional reliability, spacers need to be welded to it.
- If the hoist is mobile, rollers must be welded on each stand.
- Fix a pipe on the garage ceiling along which it will move lifting mechanism.
- Weld an I-beam in the center of the pipe to secure the roller mechanism.
- Insert the frame crossbar into the pipe.
- Drill through holes on both sides of the holder and fix the lifting mechanism.
Tools and materials
To build a hoist, you must first prepare a set of tools and components. In particular, to create a hoist you will need:
- an I-beam with a length of about 4-4.5 m (the exact length depends on the height of the ceiling in the garage);
- square pipe with dimensions 10x10 cm, 2 pipes with a diameter of 10-12 cm and a length of 2.5 m;
- Bulgarian;
- metal corners 10x10 cm;
- M16 bolts with nuts;
- lifting mechanism.
If you plan to install a mobile hoist, you will additionally need to use 4 rollers. The components are used to move the trolley.
Mounting nodes
One of important stages construction of a mobile structure is the installation of components. First, you need to drill holes in the racks through which a rod with threads at the ends will be pulled. Washers are attached to the base of the rod and nuts are screwed on to limit the divergence of the posts. Then a chain is fixed on each side in the middle of the pole.
In order for the winch to move freely, there should be some slack in the chain. A block with a cable is installed on the chain, running along the middle pillar and fixed from the bottom.
Activation and performance testing
Before each start-up and operation of the hoist, it is recommended to check the functionality of the main elements. The following components are subject to inspection:
- Chain. Since the chain is responsible for holding the object at a height, it is important to check the load capacity. Periodic maintenance involves cleaning the chain from dirt and lubricating it with grease or similar materials.
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A movable and simpler stationary crane beam in the garage with your own hands is quite doable if you have a welding machine and two days of free time. For a professional auto repair shop, it is easier to buy ready-made lifting equipment.
If the need for a crane is rare, then it is cheaper to make a simple and reliable lift yourself. Such a homemade crane can easily lift a weight of up to 800 kg, and this is for repair work It's enough in the garage.
In order to make a frame for a small beam crane in a standard garage with your own hands, you will need the following materials:
- I-beam (4 - 4.5 meters) - the required footage depends on the height of the garage;
- pipe (diameter 10-12 cm), length 2.4 meters - 2 pieces;
- one square pipe (10x10 cm);
- corners (10x10);
- manual hoist and hoist;
- bolts (M16) with nuts.
If you plan to build a mobile crane beam, then you need four more rollers and a hoist.
The procedure for making a crane frame with your own hands:
- We weld the legs of the crane - you need to weld the corners on both sides to the I-beam pipe;
- The location of the corner is at an angle of 45 degrees. The result is a kind of stiffening ribs that will firmly fix the stand, which bears the bulk of the weight of the load carried by the crane;
- We weld two triangles and spacers on each crane post.
- if the crane is a mobile beam, then on both sides from the bottom, on each stand, a roller must be welded horizontally - ordinary rollers are suitable for metal containers, furniture will not withstand the weight;
- At the top, we fix a pipe as a crossbar along which the lifting mechanism will move;
- We weld an I-beam in the center of the pipe to secure the roller along which it will move. steel rope crane lifting mechanism.
- We weld a piece of square pipe on top of the I-beam (to give rigidity to the frame) - 40 cm. The pipe should protrude on both sides by at least 20 cm. It turns out that the side post is located in the middle of the crossbar stiffening pipe;
- V square pipe insert the transverse pipe of the frame crossbar;
- We drill through holes for fastening bolts on both sides of the square holder and in the crossbar pipe itself - we need rigid, reliable fixation on both sides of the vertical post.
The result is a U-shaped structure of the crane frame, which is installed on rigid legs with spacers, and a crossbar pipe is rigidly bolted to the top.
Installation of lifting mechanism - manual or automatic
To mechanically lift loads onto the frame, you need to install a manual hoist - a worm winch and a cable. How to attach the hoist to the frame:
- on the side of the rack we install a manual worm winch (load capacity 800 kg, no less);
- The steel cable moves along rollers.
This mechanism makes it easy to lift the engine or a car behind the hood on one side.
You can use the lifting mechanism and rollers from the elevator door as a drive. The rollers there are reliable and durable.
On the manufactured base you can install and electric drive lift A 300 - 500 W motor will be quite enough for simple repair work in the garage.
Such cranes are often used for the repair and reconstruction of old wooden houses. The construction of a log house will go faster if the logs are laid using a mobile homemade crane. In this case, the width of the frame is the length of the logs.
You can also make a simpler lift for the engine, on one support, watch the video.
The winch is one of the oldest devices that facilitates the movement of heavy objects, invented by man much earlier than he knew the laws of physics. The principle of operation of the winch is based on the rule of leverage: by applying minor forces to the handle, you can move and lift quite heavy objects. Winches and hoists are widely used on the farm for lifting building materials, dragging loads, and even for plowing land. Winches, powered by manual or electric drive, are also indispensable for lovers of off-road travel.
Buy a winch or make it yourself? Which winch design is better? The answers to these questions depend on how often you plan to use it and what loads you move. Manual winches require force but are not dependent on electrical power. An electric winch can move heavy loads without any effort on your part, but it must be powered or battery-powered. Below are the designs of several winches that you can make with your own hands; which winch to choose is up to you.
Winch made from a cable and a piece of pipe
Option simplest winch, which can be literally made from scrap materials and in a few minutes, is popular among car enthusiasts. This design is a cable rigidly attached to a piece of pipe placed on an axle. The axle is driven into the ground or secured in some other way. Any lever is slipped under the bottom turn of the cable: a shovel handle, a pipe, a strong pole. By rotating the lever so that the cable is wound around the pipe, you can move a fairly heavy object, for example, a stuck car. This device cannot be called a full-fledged winch, but it performs its functions.
Manual winches include any devices that allow you to move loads and are manually driven. The most common winches drum type: a cable is wound onto a reel, and the reel is rotated using a handle through a gearbox: a worm or a sprocket system different sizes. The higher the gear ratio, the less force is required to apply to the handle.
For efficient operation The hand winch must be rigidly fixed to a stationary object; for this purpose, mounting holes are made on the winch frame. The handle is connected to a shaft on which a small sprocket is rigidly fixed. The coil is rigidly connected to a large sprocket, which has a clutch with a small one. The cable is attached at one end to the reel, and a carabiner or hook is attached to the other end.
Do-it-yourself winch with manual or electric drive
If you have the skills to work with a welding machine, you can make a winch yourself from scrap materials.
You will need:
- Pipe rectangular section for making a frame;
- Pipe or finished drum shaft;
- Sheet metal for drum discs, thickness 3 mm;
- Threaded rods M10-M12, 24 cm long – 6 pieces, nuts;
- Tube with a diameter of Ø14 – 6 identical pieces of 20 cm;
- Large and small sprockets and chain;
- Hubs for attaching the drum to the shaft and for attaching the shaft to the frame;
- Lever for manual drive, petrol or Electrical engine, operating from a ~220 V network or a car battery;
- A cable of the required length with a carabiner at the end;
- Welding machine and electrodes;
- Grinder with cutting and grinding disc;
- Paint and primer for metal;
Set of wrenches.
Winch manufacturing technology:
- According to the drawing, a 20x20 mm rectangular pipe for the frame is cut with a grinder. All connections made perpendicularly are obtained by cutting the workpieces at an angle of 45 degrees.
- Lay out the workpieces on a flat surface. Weld the winch frame using welding machine pointwise at the junction of the workpieces. Check the perpendicularity of the corners and the consistency of the dimensions, after which the seams are completely welded. Weld the platform from sheet metal With longitudinal grooves for mounting the drive motor. Remove scale and burrs with an angle grinder grinding wheel.
- Sand the frame, cover it with a metal primer, and after drying, paint or enamel in two layers.
- Start making the drum. Two circles of the same diameter are cut out of sheet metal - approximately 30 cm. A hole is drilled in the center of each circle according to the diameter of the shaft, and six holes are also made at a distance of 7-8 cm from the center. Drill holes for fastening the hubs - 4 on each disk. Attach the hubs to bolted connection. The drum disks are fastened with studs: each stud is secured in one disk, a Ø14 tube is put on it, after which a second disk is put on the studs and tightened onto the nuts and locknuts.
- The drum is mounted on a shaft. The shaft can be made from metal pipe suitable diameter or use a ready-made shaft made of high-strength steel from any mechanism. On the shaft with outside A large sprocket is attached to the drum - you can use a sprocket from a motorcycle gearbox, for example. Hubs are installed on the protruding parts of the shaft to secure the drum to the frame.
- Install the drum with the shaft on the frame, securing them with external hubs and bolts. An electric or Gas engine with a small sprocket rigidly fixed to the output shaft. Put on the chain and adjust its tension by moving the electric motor along the platform in the rectangular mounting grooves to the optimal position. The chain should not sag, but too much tension is not advisable - wear on the sprockets will increase, and the chain may also break. You can check the chain tension by rotating the drum with your hands - it should not hinder the rotation of the drum when unwinding the cable.
- Wind the cable around the drum, securing its end to the shaft. The second end of the cable is equipped with a durable carabiner. For ease of movement, the winch is mounted on a frame with a wheel pair using a shank.
- The shank on the opposite side is designed for attaching the winch to the car. In this case, it is recommended to close the drum protective casing, preventing dirt and precipitation from getting onto the cable.
- If the drive is planned to be universal, then a handle can be mounted on the outside of the shaft. In this case, in the absence of fuel or electricity, it will be possible to use the winch manually.
The presented winch design is simple and reliable, and although it does not have the ability to switch gear ratios, reverse and other auxiliary functions, it performs the task of moving heavy loads in a horizontal plane perfectly. If it is necessary to lift a load to a greater height, such a winch can be used in combination with manual hoist or simply by throwing the cable over a strong support.
Thus, in today's lesson we looked at creating a manual winch with your own hands, subscribe to our group and stay updated on all the important news!
Homemade winch (telpher, hoist). How to make a lifting mechanism for a garage, workshop, construction site.
Many home craftsmen would like to have some kind of lifting mechanism, such as a hoist, hoist or winch, in their garage or workshop. Of course, you can buy them ready-made, but they are usually not very cheap - several thousand rubles. And they are not often on sale. Automotive rescue lever winches available in almost any store cannot be used for lifting loads. Because their stoppers are made with ratchet mechanism. But it only works well in one direction. It is easy to lift a load with such a winch. But lowering it smoothly is problematic. When independently manufacturing hoists or winches, the master is faced with the problem of where to get a powerful, reliable gearbox (with a gear ratio of at least 1:20 - 50) and always with a self-braking effect. As a rule, these are powerful worm gearboxes and they don’t often fall into the hands of a master.
Meanwhile, almost anyone can make a homemade winch or hoist, and, as they say, from scrap materials. Threaded rods up to 2 meters long are available for sale. And it can serve as an excellent gearbox for a homemade lifting mechanism.
The design of such a winch is clear from the sketches. The principle of operation of the winch is simple. If you rotate the threaded rod itself, and the nut on this stud is not allowed to rotate, then the nut will move along the stud. The force during this movement is much greater than that required to rotate the pin (all work on the same principle screw jacks, the increase in force there reaches 20-30 times the magnitude).
The ends of the stud are fixed in bearings, which in turn are installed in supports. A stud nut is a rectangular metal plate to which regular nuts are welded. The plate prevents the nuts from turning. A cable is also attached to the plate. The cable is passed through one of the supports and thrown over the block. At the other end of the cable is a lifting hook or sling system (this depends on the purpose of the lifting winch).
The pin drive is easiest done manually. To do this, a pulley or gear is attached to one of its ends. (you can, for example, even use a bicycle). A strong cord or chain is thrown through a pulley or gear in an endless loop. If you pull on one side or the other of the cord, the pin will rotate and the nut will move along the pin. Accordingly, there will be a cable behind you, and the load will either fall or rise. The self-braking of the mechanism is absolute; no force on the nut will force the pin to rotate. Most likely, the whole thread will break off.
Of course, you can also make an electric drive using any reversible electric motor with a power of 200-500 W. It is convenient to use, for example, some inexpensive electric drill with rotation direction switch. Nowadays there are many such drills available for sale. The electric drive can be made either directly or through an additional pulley or flexible shaft.
Such a homemade winch can lift a weight of several hundred kilograms. In most cases this is sufficient for household needs. The length of the stud, or rather the ability to move the nut along it, determines the lifting height (in the simplest version of this homemade hoist). If you take a 2 meter long hairpin, then this height will be approximately 170-180 cm, which in the vast majority of cases is more than enough for a home workshop or garage. However, it is not difficult to increase the lifting height using simple techniques.
The support (base) for such a winch can be made from durable dry wooden beam or thick board. Although of course it is better to use metallic profile or channel. All connections are made by checking or using bolts. It all depends on the purpose and capabilities of the master. It is not difficult to organize the movement of this hoist under the ceiling. For example, using some kind of T-beam placed in the center of the workshop. And install the caliper itself on the beam so that it can rotate around its center. Then almost any point in the garage or workshop will be accessible. A similar result can, of course, be achieved with the help of various blocks, it would be possible to attach it to something. Of course, the floor beams of the building must also be designed for additional load.
Based on similar homemade winches, you can make a homemade one crane. This will require at least two of these winches. It is most convenient to place them in the crane boom. One of the winches will lift the boom itself (change its angle of inclination), and the second will lift the load itself. Of course, you shouldn’t forget about the counterweight.
The simplicity and accessibility of such a homemade winch opens up quite a wide scope for its use in a home workshop, garage or construction site.
Konstantin Timoshenko