Anyone who has ever encountered a wall knows perfectly well what the “ideal” walls are in our homes. These are continuous pits, tubercles and cracks. If the defects are very large, then you can’t do without them, but to correct minor surface flaws you can use a special putty. In today's article we will look at what this composition is, its types, in what cases it is used and how to properly putty walls and ceilings.
- correction of defects after applying the initial layer of starting putty;
- sealing cracks and small depressions;
- finishing of structures of complex shape;
- sealing joints (gypsum plasterboards).
- The spatula has trapezoidal shape and usually has a wooden handle.
- It is characterized by a small thickness of the working plate and has an elastic and flexible stainless steel blade.
- trapezoidal shape of the working surface;
- the blade is inflexible, as it is made of carbon steel;
- working surface width – 300−600 mm.
What is the best wall putty to use when leveling surfaces?
In addition to the fact that putty can be starting, finishing and universal, it also differs in composition. So, putty mixtures are:
- acrylic – used for interior finishing work. This type of putty is highly moisture-resistant and versatile, protects walls from dampness, and is also used to create a decorative finishing layer and is suitable for working with wooden surfaces;
- water-dispersed – has high elasticity, good adhesion, resistance to cracks and shrinkage, and is also durable;
- oil-glue mixture. The putty composition is made on the basis of drying oil and is ideal for creating a finishing layer before painting the surface with oil paints;
- cement putty excellent for working with stone and surfaces in rooms with high;
- gypsum mixture used for working in rooms with low level humidity .
Why do you need putty - different for each layer
Applying any putty in several thin or one thick layer is ineffective, since the material is expensive and drying will take a lot of working time. Therefore, to eliminate significant defects and level the surface, use it, then apply a starting (1-3 mm) and finishing (up to 0.5 mm) layer with putty. To create a high-quality and more durable finish, it is necessary to use materials from the same manufacturer.
Puttying the surface using beacons
How better foundation, the less finishing putty will be needed and, accordingly, the cheaper the repair will be. For getting ideal surface They use special perforated profiles - “beacons”, which allow you to quickly and efficiently level the walls, which is perfect for beginners.
The metal profile is installed on the sand-cement mortar, focusing on a plumb line or building level and achieving the perfect vertical. The distance between the beacons should be 100−150 mm less than the length of the one used building regulations. After installing the beacons, you need to let the solution dry so that they do not get lost during subsequent finishing with putty.
Prepare putty (described above) and fill the gap between the beacons with it, and maximum thickness layer doesn't matter. Relying on the profiles, pull from the bottom up, cutting off excess mortar and, if necessary, filling the depressions with it. The operation is performed several times until the desired result is obtained. Depending on the temperature, humidity in the room and the thickness of the layer, it sometimes takes more than a week for the putty to dry.
How to apply putty to the wall for the finishing layer
After the walls are prepared accordingly, you can proceed to surface finishing. finishing putty. For this purpose, compositions are used, dry or ready-made, which after processing acquire an even and perfectly smooth surface. The finishing putty is applied thin layer, and the smoother the base, the less solution consumption will be. The technology of puttying and sanding is practically no different from working with starting mixtures.
We bring to your attention a video on how to apply finishing putty to a wall:
Drying, sanding and sanding putty walls
The final stage of finishing work using putty requires serious attitude and consists of several stages. One of them is sanding, which is often skipped by inexperienced finishers, but first things first. So, after applying the finishing layer of putty, you need to let it dry well, since it is after this that the smallest defects become noticeable, namely cracks, which must be repaired when they occur.
Advice! To identify defects during puttying, it is necessary to use lighting with a powerful bright lamp and aimed at a slight angle at the wall being treated.
After the putty has dried, you need to sand the surface to remove small bumps and sagging, and also to make the wall perfectly smooth. If you intend to paste over the wall, then it will be enough to sand it well, but in case of painting, additional sanding will be required. To bring the surface to a perfectly smooth state, you can use fine (almost zero) sandpaper or an abrasive mesh.
You need to start sanding from any upper corner and, making circular movements, process the wall, highlighting it with powerful bright light. It is undesirable to apply strong pressure on the grater, so as not to damage finishing layer.
A comment
Team leader of the repair and construction company "Dom Premium"
Ask a Question“Since sanding and sanding are very dirty and dusty stages of finishing work, it is worth using a respirator, safety glasses and gloves, and the room is well ventilated. Besides these protective measures required by safety instructions."
How to putty walls under wallpaper with your own hands
The technology for puttingtying walls under is practically no different from finishing surfaces under:
- The solution is prepared in accordance with the instructions on the package.
- The work is carried out with two spatulas - one with a width of 150 mm and the second with a width of at least 300 mm.
- One section is processed, after the second, with an overlap of about 50 mm, etc.
- After the wall is completely plastered, it is allowed to dry, and only then do they begin to level the wall by sanding.
- Clean the surface from dust, reapply putty, and then repeat everything all over again until a perfectly flat surface is achieved.
When the wall is completely plastered, it is primed and pasted over. Application of a primer prevents the occurrence of fungus, mold and dampness, and also improves adhesion between different finishing materials. The video shows how to properly putty walls under wallpaper:
Do-it-yourself putty on walls for painting
| Photo | Process description |
 | First of all, using a wide spatula, like a scraper, we remove minor defects from the wall in the form of tubercles and sagging. |
 | As a rule, we check the evenness of the wall. |
 | Special attention We pay attention to the corners. |
 | If there are bumps, remove them using a hammer drill with a chisel. |
 | We prime the wall with a roller or spray. |
 | We apply cement-sand mortar in corners throughout the vertical. |
 | The rule is to tighten the solution. |
 | We get this almost perfect and flat angle. |
When starting a home renovation, you should draw up an accurate, comprehensive work plan and strictly follow it. Particular attention should be paid to the walls. Unfortunately, no paint, whitewash or wallpaper can hide cosmetic defects and blemishes wall panels. Even in a new, newly built building, the quality and evenness of the walls leave much to be desired, which means that you will have to do some things yourself.
Putty is a building material that allows you to level walls and get rid of cracks and irregularities before final finishing or decorating walls or other panels, which will allow for quality repairs.
Types of putties and their properties
Manufacturers building materials They offer putties that are already prepared and dry, sold in bags in the form of mixtures. When choosing this or another form of material release, you should pay attention to the markings indicated on the packaging. The letters KR or LR indicate that the putty is intended for ordinary rooms, and the VH marking implies use for rooms with high humidity.
There is no noticeable difference between the ready-made putty and the dry mixture. There are small nuances, such as additional additives, the maximum layer thickness obtained in one application.
An open jar or prepared amount of putty mixture must be used within 24 hours, otherwise it will lose all its properties, it will be difficult and difficult to apply, and a good result when working with such a product is not guaranteed.
There are also starting and finishing putties designed for certain stages of puttying.
To dilute the dry mixture you will need:
- dry putty mixture;
- water;
- mixing container;
- construction mixer or a drill with a special attachment.
Usually putty is diluted in a ratio of 1 liter cold water for 2.5 kg of dry mixture.
The resulting putty mixture should be close in consistency to thick sour cream. Too much liquid composition will flow down the wall, thicker ones will clump in a limited area, preventing you from applying an even layer of the product.
It should be remembered that the resulting mixture cannot be thickened with an additional portion of dry powder, nor diluted with water. Particular attention should be paid to preventing the entry of foreign matter and dirt (particles of old material from the mixer, small stones, etc.).
Necessary tool
Puttying is not a complicated process and can be done independently. The work will require various tools.
- different sizes small to large (some wall areas will require spatulas up to 60cm long). The blades of working spatulas should be even and smooth, without jagged edges. If your spatulas do not meet this requirement, you need to lightly sand the surfaces with fine sandpaper.
- , you will need it to apply a fair amount of putty to particularly large irregularities and cracks in the walls.
- . This tool is useful when repairing accidental damage to a fresh layer of putty. Due to the elasticity of the material and its small size, the spatula is convenient for applying small portions of putty to the surface and allows you to level out recesses without creating new unevenness.
- Level .
- . Fine-grained sandpaper will be very useful for the final grouting of completely puttied walls. And coarse sandpaper will come in handy before applying the first layer of putty mixture; this paper is good for rubbing the walls, removing unevenness and roughness.
- , firmly fixing and holding the abrasive. It should be remembered that some coatings cannot be sanded after the final coat!
- Primer and priming tools. Brushes and rollers must be clean and free of foreign materials.
- Corner profile or painting mesh.
Putty stages
The entire process of applying putty material can be divided into successive stages.
Stage 1. Removing old paint or wallpaper and cleaning the walls
The main task of this stage is to make the walls as clean as possible. To do this, all stains (rust, dirt, grease) should be removed. Mold localization areas should be treated with specially designed compounds. All decorative cladding materials from the walls must be removed. Old plaster- knock down. When carrying out the above work, spatulas, construction removers and other solutions are used to facilitate the stage of cleaning the walls. Cleaned walls need to be dried without drafts; on average, drying takes from 12 to 24 hours.
Stage 2. Primer
Many people neglect priming the walls, which is absolutely in vain. The surface treated with a primer acquires greater strength and is better suited to puttying, due to the good adhesion of the putty mixture to the primed wall.
“Clean” walls are primed in two layers; if the walls are to be plastered, one layer of primer before puttying is sufficient. The primer creates a thin film on the surface of the wall and protects against the development of fungus and mold.
To work, you will need two spatulas - the middle one to collect the working mass from the container and distribute it with an even comb over a larger spatula, which will level the putty on the wall. “Working” spatulas may vary depending on the section of the wall.
Experts advise starting work from the left edge and moving clockwise. The wall is puttied slightly overlapping, trying to even out the putty mixture as much as possible. It is important to avoid applying too much large quantity putties. The spatula should be moved diagonally, imitating the movements of car wipers, running the tool along the wall at an angle of 30-35 degrees towards you and without too much pressure.
It is important to let each layer dry thoroughly - this will guarantee a strong and durable coating.
How to handle corners?
To get a perfectly even corner, you can use a special corner spatula. The main nuance is that the putty mixture is applied to the wall itself and leveled with a spatula from top to bottom.
There is a use case corner profile, which is glued to the corner before the first puttying or plastering. However, this method is not applicable if the walls are being prepared for painting.
In this case, you can leave more putty in the corners and bring the joints of the wall panels to an ideal state at the final sanding stage.
Stage 3. Applying the first layer of putty
The first layer is usually the densest. If the walls are too uneven, then a special mesh is attached over the entire surface area, which is glued with construction adhesive. If the walls are fairly even, then the painting mesh is glued only in the corners (internal and external). The stronger and stiffer the material, the smoother the putty surface will be.
If there are grooves and deep cracks in the walls, then the putty is first applied locally, having previously primed the crevice, and then the entire wall is treated with putty.
Construction brands offer special starting putties for this stage, which have higher elasticity and allow you to apply a layer up to 1 cm thick. But such a layer will take at least 24 hours to dry. The recommended thickness of the starting layer is 5 mm.
Stage 4. Second putty using beacons
This stage of work is similar to the previous one, only during its implementation the evenness of the wall is constantly checked building rule or level. The second layer is much thinner than the first.
An important point: when performing the second puttying, you need to “stretch” the surface as best as possible, giving it maximum evenness.
Stage 5. Final third puttying
The thinnest layer, its thickness is no more than 2.5 mm. For this stage there are also special mixtures, the main task of which is to give the surface smoothness. But, if the previous steps were performed poorly, this layer will not be able to correct the situation.
Stage 6. Final drying
Putty walls are dried at closed windows and temperature changes. Sharp fluctuations in thermal conditions and drafts can cause cracks and deformations in the putty coating. Drying using electrical installations and air heaters is unacceptable. That is, you need to dry the room with the windows closed but the interior doors open.
Stage 7. Grouting and sanding
To give the wall a final smoothness, you need to sand it using a holder. It is important to understand that when preparing walls for wallpapering, they must be sanded with an abrasive grain size ranging from P80 to P120. When preparing a wall for painting - from P120 - P150, after which the wall is primed and dried again.
Puttying is not a very complicated process, but it requires patience and certain skills in working with a spatula and tools.
Video - How to putty walls correctly?
High-quality putty is the basis of any repair. This seemingly elementary process has its own subtleties. Our article will tell you how to properly putty any surface.
Cracks, grooves, potholes - all this requires treatment. Putty technology does not tolerate flaws: in the future they can cost nerves and money. In order to properly prepare any surface for painting or wallpaper, it is necessary to take into account some nuances, which we will discuss below.
Let's go in order.
Tools and materials for applying putty
- Putty (starting and finishing, for the first and all subsequent layers, respectively)
- Dilution container
- Stick or construction mixer
- Spatulas of various configurations
- Skin
How to putty correctly? In fact, there is nothing complicated about it. We will tell you about the subtleties that need to be taken into account so that the final result does not differ from the results of the work of a professional.
Putty technology: taking into account the little things
Despite the fact that the building materials market is now overflowing with various ready-made mixtures, it is better to take dry putties and mix them yourself. This is due to the fact that you need to find “your” consistency. Some will find it more convenient to apply a thinner version, others will like a thicker one. This applies to both the starting and finishing putty. Preparing the mixture is simple: pour the powder into any suitable container and gradually dilute with water room temperature, stirring continuously. You can use a construction mixer. Quantity ready mixture depends on the amount of work, but keep in mind that it dries out quite quickly.
Clear work surface from dirt, old wallpaper or paint.
The next stage is applying putty with a spatula. For large and flat surfaces (for example, walls), it is better to take a larger tool, for corners and hard-to-reach areas - a smaller one. The best spatulas are made of stainless steel.
First apply the starting putty with a layer of 5-7 mm. In particular difficult cases the primary layer can be reinforced with a special plastic mesh.
If there are large holes in the wall, fill them to the general level first. If you need to putty the corners, use a special corner spatula.
Each layer of putty dries for about a day. The next layer can be applied only after the previous one has completely dried.
Usually two or three layers of putty are required. Apply the finishing layer in a layer of no more than 1-2 mm. Be sure to change the direction of applying the putty from layer to layer.
Ideally, after applying the last layer, all surface defects (seams, joints, cracks) should be hidden. However, the technology of puttying the surface under wallpaper allows for flaws: it is not at all necessary that the surface be absolutely smooth.
The dried putty surface is treated with sandpaper. As practice shows, 150 is most often used. It is necessary to sand each dried layer of putty. You can wrap the skin around any suitable wooden block. You can also use a hand sander.
How to putty correctly: little tricks
- When working with putty, do not forget about safety precautions. It is best to dilute the dry mixture while wearing a respirator.
- If you decide to use a wide spatula, apply the putty onto it with a smaller one. This will make the work much easier.
- Wash the tool immediately after use warm water. Do not wash the aqueous solution of putty down the drain, this can cause blockages!
- In the first three days after application, the putty must be protected from moisture, hypothermia or drying out.
Here, perhaps, are all the main nuances of working with putty.
One of the most simple ways to check the correct spelling of a word is to type it into text editor. Typically, if there is an error in a term, the program will point it out. However, there are times when this method does not work. For example, as with the word “putty” (or “putty”). How can it be described correctly? Indeed, in most programs both options are recognized as correct. Let's look at this problem and also find out why it happened in the first place.
What is a wall?
In order to better understand the essence of the issue, it is worth finding out the meaning of the noun in question.
So, putty (putty) is the process of leveling any flat surface by applying it to it. In the vast majority of cases, it is carried out to level the walls in rooms during repairs.
However, a similar process exists in painting (priming the canvas), as well as cooking (leveling the surface of the cake before “covering” it with mastic). Moreover, even similar tools are used in both areas.
It is also worth remembering that putty (putty) also refers to the mixture itself used to smooth out uneven surfaces on the walls.
Similar substances are released different compositions(gypsum, cement, mineral, etc.). Also, such mixtures are divided into main and finishing. The first ones consist of larger particles and are applied in a thick layer to hide all the unevenness and imperfections of the walls. The second, on the contrary, contains the smallest components and they are applied in a thin layer to give the surface a “marketable” appearance.
Which is correct - putty or putty - according to the standards of modern language?
Having figured out the meaning of the noun in question, it is worth finding out how it is written.
So, which is correct: putty or wall putty?
The correct answer would be both options. Since at the moment in the Russian language these terms are considered equivalent. Therefore, we can safely say both ways.
However, among professional repairmen, the option with “t” is still more common - putty.
Origin of the word "putty"
Having figured out which is correct: putty or putty (both options are correct), it’s worth finding out why this confusion arose and why professionals still prefer the “t” option.
It's all about the etymology of the term. The variant "putty" was the first name for this process and was derived from the name of the tool used for it - a spatula.
This is the name given to a metal, plastic or silicone flat plate, which can be passed over a thick mass to level the surface and remove excess.
In addition to the difference in materials from which the spatula is made, this item also differs in design and scope of use. In addition to construction spatulas, there are pastry spatulas, as well as those intended for artists.
Etymology of the word "putty"
Knowing which is correct: putty or putty (you can do both), it’s worth considering the origin of the second spelling. This will help you understand why it is less favorite among professional builders.
So, the word “putty” was formed from the name of the material “tow” (coarse flax or hemp fiber, which is a waste product in the production of fabrics).
In the old days it was used to plug cracks in huts, barrels or various types boats. For greater strength, the tow was impregnated with resin, which also gave it moisture resistance.
Today (when most buildings are built of brick and concrete) there is practically no need for tow or caulk (that’s the name given to the process of filling cracks with tow). At the same time, the happy owners wooden baths continue to use this method to insulate rooms.
As for the term “putty,” it arose during the period when ordinary peasants (accustomed to plastering huts) began to be very actively hired to build houses for the rich.
When they hear the word “putty,” they habitually reinterpret it in their own way with the letter “k” (after all, in essence, the goal of both processes is the same - to correct surface imperfections). This pronunciation quickly spread and began to be used in speech along with putty. And in the twentieth century. and completely became its synonym and was included in most dictionaries.
Are there other spellings for this term?
Having figured out the question: “Which is correct: putty or putty?”, and also having learned why both options are correct, it is worth asking: “Were there other ways to write this noun?”
It turns out that they were, or rather was - this is the word “spadel”, which was the norm of the Russian language until the middle of the 19th century.
The fact is that the "progenitor" of putty - the noun "spatula" was borrowed from German language from the term Spatel. However, the Germans had another way of writing it, with a “d” - Spadel. In this regard, many builders of German origin, as well as people who lived abroad for a long time, often called the process “putty.” Moreover, this form was no less common than “putty”, and therefore ended up in Dahl’s dictionary.
However, by the middle of the 19th century. gradually it was forced out of speech. For this reason, when studying the question: “Which is correct: putty or putty?” the “putty” option is not even considered, because modern standards it is erroneous.
Smooth walls are an attribute good repair, but hiring a crew is expensive. Puttying walls with your own hands is not so difficult that it cannot be handled. It is important to perform all actions consistently. Receive immediately the perfect wall It is unlikely that it will work for painting, but you can putty it under wallpaper without much difficulty. And to help you, a description of the process, photos and videos.
What are they and when to use them
Putty is the preparation of surfaces for finishing finishing. With its help, they ensure that the wall is (or looks) perfectly flat. It is applied to relatively flat surfaces. If you need it. Putty is not intended for this.
Like plasters, putties consist of a binder, filler and additives that give them special properties. They are distinguished from plasters by the use of aggregates - sand - fine fractions. Two types of binders are used - cement or gypsum, sometimes lime and polymer additives are added to them. Accordingly, there are gypsum and cement putties.
There are also polymer putties - acrylic and latex. They are created on the basis of synthetic substances, the properties of which vary depending on the additives. They are not natural, but have more long term operation, also withstand a greater number of freezing/defrosting cycles. For facade works It's better to choose them. Indoors they are not the best the best choice, since they have low vapor permeability, which can cause damp walls, the appearance of fungus and mold. They are convenient because they can be used on wooden and metal surfaces.
According to the type of application, all putties are divided into two types: starting and finishing. The starting ones use larger grains of sand - 0.3-0.8 mm. This results in a slightly rough surface. They are used at the first stage to seal depressions and cracks. In finishing compositions, sand is practically dust with a very fine grain of 0.1-0.3 mm. This allows for a smooth surface.
Cement plasters - scope, advantages and disadvantages
Cement plasters are cheaper than gypsum plasters and can be applied in a thicker layer - some compositions are up to 10 mm. After mixing (mixing with water) they can be used within about 3 hours. The plasticity of the composition is affected by temperature and humidity. Usually it is indicated for +20°C and humidity 60-65%.
Cement plasters are universal. They are used both for finishing inside and outside the building. Moreover, most facade compositions are made on the basis of cement, as they withstand more cycles defrost/freeze and create a more durable surface. They also do better in damp areas. If you need to plaster a bathroom or kitchen, use better composition based on cement.
Cement plaster can be white or gray
The color of cement plasters can be gray, white and ultra-white. This depends on the type of cement used. White compounds are more expensive because more expensive brands, that’s why finishing compositions are often made white.
Flaw cement plasters- long setting time - several days for complete drying - this is the norm. Several hours should pass before the next layer is applied. From 2-3 hours with a layer of 1 mm, up to 24 with a thickness of 6 mm. Since it is rarely possible to achieve a smooth surface in one layer - there can be three or more - puttying with cement plasters takes a long time. For this reason, their popularity is quite low.
Gypsum putties, their features
Application layer gypsum putty- 0.5-10 mm depending on the type. They dry much faster, which has a positive effect on the speed of finishing work. On the other hand, the mixed composition must be used within 30-60 minutes, so such putties are mixed in small portions. This is not very convenient. If you are going to putty the walls with your own hands for the first time, start with small batches. Gradually decide how much you can produce at a time. Also keep in mind that the consumption of starting plaster is greater than that of finishing plaster - the thickness of the layer is different and you can’t be mistaken in the volume.
Gypsum plasters without modifying additives are intended for dry rooms. There are also formulations for wet ones, but this must be indicated on the packaging, since they contain hydrophobic additives.
Despite more high price and the short shelf life of the mixed portion, gypsum-based plasters are now more popular. They are more flexible, it is easier to use them to achieve the required surface smoothness, and they are easier for beginners and professionals to work with. If wall putty is still unfamiliar to you, use gypsum compounds.
Technology
The technique for applying plasters is the same for any composition. What matters is only compliance with the recipe indicated on the packaging (ratio of water and dry mass) and the time within which it must be used. Otherwise, the plastering technique is the same.
Preparing the base
Work begins on a dry and clean base. If there is an old covering, everything that can fall is cleaned off, cracks are opened, screws and nails, remnants of wallpaper and other coverings are removed.
As sad as it may be, both paint and whitewash must be removed. Paint for the reason that the putty does not stick well to it, and if it does stick, it may later fall off. The whitewash is removed because it is loose. With it, after priming, adhesion is normal, but after a while the finish begins to crack and peel. If you don’t want to redo the ceiling or wall again in a year and a half, you need to clean off the lime.
After the old coating is removed, remove the dust. If there industrial vacuum cleaner, you can use it (you can’t use a household one - it will break). If you don’t have such equipment, you can first go over it with a dry broom, then with a brush, and finally with a slightly damp cloth to collect the residue.
Primer
Priming walls under plaster is used to ensure that the materials adhere better. Its second task is to reduce the amount of moisture absorbed by the base. This is very important on porous surfaces such as brick, dry plastered wall, etc. On walls that are loose and prone to crumbling, use special compounds deep penetration. They bind particles of material to each other, increasing the overall strength of the base.
To receive guaranteed good result It is better not to skip this stage. Even though primers cost a lot.
Primers are sold either as ready-to-use mixtures or as liquid concentrates. The second type requires additional dilution with water. In any case, before use, carefully read the instructions and follow them strictly.
Usually the technology is as follows: the composition is poured into a container and distributed over the surface using a brush or roller. In difficult places - corners and bends, go thoroughly with a brush. If two or more layers are needed, they are applied after the previous one has completely dried.
Tools
To putty the walls directly, you only need two spatulas. One large, with a long blade (300-600 mm) and one small. The small ones take the composition out of the container and distribute it over the blade of the larger one. They also use it to remove the remains from the blade and distribute them again along the edge. A large spatula is needed directly to distribute the composition over the wall.
The blade of a large spatula should be made of stainless steel. It should be flexible, without nicks or scratches. If you look at it in profile, you can see that its ends are slightly bent to one side. This was done specifically so that when puttingtying walls or ceilings, stripes from the edges of the blade would not appear on the surface. You can also work with a straight spatula, but you will not be able to get rid of the streaks, as a result - after drying you will have to compare them, and this is a long and dusty job.
You will also need a container in which to mix the putty and a construction mixer or drill with a stirring attachment. It is better to take a plastic container - a bucket or basin with high sides. Pay attention to the shape of the bottom. The transition from the bottom to the walls should be smooth. Then it is possible to mix the entire composition without residue or lumps.
Wall putty technique
In general, everything has already been said, but let’s focus specifically on the process and sequence of work. First, the putty is mixed. Water is poured into a bucket, the dry composition is added to it, making sure that there are no lumps. You need to wait a while until the whole mass gets wet, then you can stir. Kneading can be mechanical or manual. This is indicated on the packaging with the putty. When you have achieved a homogeneous composition without lumps, you can begin work.
Apply the putty to the wall using a large spatula. The composition is applied small on it, forming a roller two to three centimeters wide and about a centimeter high on the edge of the blade. If the composition is thick, you can take more solution; if it is liquid, it can flow, so the roller is made small.
Step 1. Starting putty . If there are large irregularities - more than 3 mm, they are first covered with starting putty. If the unevenness is only in places, only these are repaired, bringing them to the same level as the surface. If there are a lot of them, you will have to putty the entire surface. When working it is advisable not to exceed the maximum permissible thickness layer, otherwise cracks may appear or the finish will fall off. If there are no significant irregularities, you can do without this layer. But in this case, the consumption of the finishing composition will be greater, and it costs more than the starting one.
The thickness of the putty layer that remains on the wall is adjusted by the angle of the spatula. If it is strongly inclined towards the wall, the layer remains thicker; if the angle is closer to a straight line (60-70°), it can be 1 mm.
There is another technique for applying putty. It is called "na sdir". In this case, the spatula is placed perpendicular to the wall. As a result, only pores, streaks and other defects are covered, and consumption is minimal. But this technique only works on smooth walls, without deviations in geometry. putty uneven walls with differences of more than 1-2 mm using this method is impossible.
Step 2. Leveling the first layer. After the starting layer has dried (the time is indicated on the packaging), take sandpaper for grinding and it is used to smooth out the most prominent irregularities. Most often these are stripes, but due to inexperience, bumps may also appear. After sanding is completed, dust from the walls is swept away with a broom, then brushed with a dry brush.
Step 3. Finishing putty of the walls. A layer is applied to the cleaned walls finishing putty, no more than a few millimeters thick. At this stage, you should try to get a flat surface by carefully leveling the composition. Leave to dry.
Step 4: Align the final layers. For this stage, take a mesh with a finer cell. They try to get a smooth surface. Good lighting is necessary for normal results. The absence of defects is also checked with the palm of your hand.
That's all. Next, step 3 and 4 are repeated until you are satisfied with the result. A little about the extent to which it is necessary to level the walls. It all depends on the type finishing, which you have chosen. If the walls are puttied under wallpaper, there is no need to achieve perfect smoothness. Even the thinnest wallpaper hides small differences. Multilayer ones are less demanding on the surface paper wallpaper- duplex or triplex. A more even base is necessary for a non-woven base, as well as for all vinyl wallpapers except foam and textured ones.
The requirements for putty for painting are higher. The paint does not hide even the most minor flaws, so you have to level it to perfection. Up to six very thin coats may be needed.
How to make smooth corners with putty
You saw several methods in the video - just remove the mass well from the very corner. Everything seems simple, but in practice it turns out to be difficult and not very smooth. For beginner plasterers, there are special corner spatulas for the outer and inner corners.
After applying a certain amount of putty to the corner, they apply it, removing the excess and forming an ideal line. It's easier to work with them.
