Thickness of edged boards for overlapped walls. How to sheathe a house with overlapping boards

Wedge boards, nailed horizontally and overlapping when sheathing a house, in North America called a clapboard. This option exterior finishing the house is very interesting - the walls of the building look both noble and modern. The same notorious “vinyl” often imitates exactly this type of cladding. And the protection of the walls in this case is very reliable - there is practically no chance for water to get into the wall cavity. However, all this is possible with one important condition- if you do the work technically competently.

IN Lately Many people prefer polyvinyl chloride to wood. In North America, panels made of this plastic are almost three times cheaper than wooden boards; working with “vinyl” is easier and does not require much maintenance. However, customers, middle-income people, still prefer artificial material natural wood. We have been working on boards for many years and, believe me, we know a lot about this seemingly simple work. As in any business, we also have a whole arsenal of techniques that allow us to “dress” a house quickly and efficiently.

We start covering after fastening thermal insulation mats. First of all, we install the corner ones. For internal corners we use bars with a cross section of 25x50 mm or 30x30 mm [Fig. 1) - with smaller sections it is difficult to achieve the required sealing of the joints.

External corners, depending on the circumstances, we do it differently. The simplest way- fill boards with a cross-section of 25x100 mm along the edges of adjacent surfaces (Fig. 2a). In this case, we install the sheathing end-to-end with the side edges of the corner elements, which allows us to avoid the hassle of making miter joints between the clapboard boards.

If the customer wants the corners to look more solid, we do things a little differently (Fig. 26). First, we nail the slats with a cross-section of 25x75 mm, and then, after finishing the sheathing, we cover the joints with wide (25x150 mm) boards. In addition to external massiveness, such corners provide better waterproofing - and possible “blunders” in the area of the joints will be closed. True, the latter method also has disadvantages - secluded places are formed in the corners, which various insects love to settle in. But here, as they say, the customer is always right, and our task is to warn in time about possible consequences.

To minimize possible warping of the boards, in all cases we carefully putty their ends, since the fibers are the capillaries through which the wood absorbs moisture. By lenght corner boards We only trim after installing the drain aprons.

The roof above the side walls usually has an overhang (Fig. 3a). In this case, we nail the top sheathing board end-to-end with the soffit, and then additionally cover the corner with a decorative strip.

Sometimes you have to do things differently with end walls (Fig. 36). The pediment often does not have an overhang, so here we do approximately the same as in the case of “solid” corners. Along the top end wall We nail a batten with a cross-section of 25x75 mm, install the top row of sheathing end-to-end with it, and additionally cover the seam with a wide (25x150 mm cross-section) board.

Most often we have to deal with wide (130 mm) boards (Fig. 4). When covering, approximately 100 mm of the surface remains open, since the clapboard is installed overlapping. Why approximately? Yes, because this type of cladding is just good in that you can quite flexibly vary the amount of overlap.

For example, we always try to calculate the rows so that the lower edge of the row of trim located above the window is at the level of the upper cut of the opening. Likewise, under the window, the board should run continuously and without any cutouts. Note that wall cladding is greatly simplified and looks better if all the windows are located at the same height.

When covering walls with clapboard, use a homemade template. It can be made from a fairly long strip with a cross section of 25x75 mm. Having installed the workpiece on the drain apron, we mark the upper and lower sections of windows and doors on it, and then, having calculated the number of rows, we transfer the markings from the template to the wall (Fig. 5). In this case, you need to mark the upper edges of the clapboard, since the lower ones will be covered by the already nailed boards of the lower row.

The calculation of the rows consists of dividing the distance between the extreme (upper and lower) points of the sheathed surface into equal intervals (from 100 to 115 mm). In some cases, when the installation pitch of the boards cannot be adjusted to the marks of windows and doors, we act in accordance with the circumstances, for example, we make appropriate cutouts in the sheathing boards.

There are usually three of us working: one is sawing, two are nailing the sheathing. First, we install the casting board and cover it with an aluminum apron, which we attach to the wall with an overlap of about 4...5 cm. Then we cut blanks for covering the inter-window spaces.

We nail a block with a cross section of 30x30 mm on top of the apron to give all the boards a uniform slope. This, of course, is for boards 130 mm wide. For a narrower clapboard, the thickness of the lining may be different. If a row of sheathing needs to be made up of some blanks, we place pieces of roofing felt or roofing felt under each joint to prevent moisture from penetrating through the seam into the cavity of the wall. We seal the windows around the perimeter silicone sealant, and outside, around the openings, we make improvised frames from roofing felt.

And a few more tips for those who decided to cover their house with wedge-shaped boards.

1 If one side is rough and the other is not, it is advisable to install the clapboard with the rough side facing out. In this case, both the primer and the paint stick to the surface better.
2 Avoid nailing sheathing boards only at the top or bottom. In the first case, the board may split, and in the second, the clapboard will expand uncontrollably when absorbing moisture. The optimal option is to fasten it staggered in increments of 30...45 cm.
3. We tried different types of wood: cedar, mahogany, pine and spruce. Cedar behaves best, of course. It is difficult to drive a nail into mahogany without splitting the board, although in all other respects mahogany is excellent - it does not warp, does not shrink and holds perfectly finishing coating. We prefer not to work with pine, since this wood is prone to splitting, warping, and shrinkage. We rarely use spruce, but in general it is quite suitable for external cladding.
4. It’s better not to skimp on nails. Even galvanized nails, in our opinion, are not very good for sheathing. When hammered, the fragile coating is torn off from the surface of the head and the nail begins to rust, just like an ordinary black one. The most reliable nails are made of stainless steel. They are, of course, much more expensive than galvanized ones, but worth it.

All photos from the article

How is a house finished with lapped boards? Is it possible to combine this method of finishing the facade with its insulation? What types of wood are best to use? How to waterproof a facade, and what impregnations should be used to protect wood? In our article we will try to find answers to these and some other questions.

Waterproofing

On facades made of brick, aerated concrete or rubble coating waterproofing. Wooden walls are closing roll material along the sheathing with an overlap of 10 centimeters. A ventilation gap is left under the waterproofing, ensuring vapor permeability of the walls.

A special case

If a roof made of overlapping planks is installed, its structure will be noticeably different from that accepted for more modern roofing materials.

The traditional installation scheme is as follows:

The basis of the roof is on the rafters, and the longitudinal logs laid on the gables of the house are laid down;
At the base of the slope, a so-called stream is hung on hooks - a log hollowed out inside that serves as a drain;
The board is laid along the slopes in two layers. In this case, the lower edge of both layers of the board rests against the flow, and the upper edge is pressed down by a log - a log.

The photo shows a house with a plank roof.

Using modern waterproofing materials this diagram can be significantly simplified:

A sheathing of boards or timber is placed on the bed;
A layer of waterproofing is laid on the sheathing, extending to the edge of the gutter;
A counter-lattice made of thin lath is placed on top of the waterproofing;
The board is laid parallel to the planks with an overlap that prevents water from flowing in.

The main problem with a plank roof will be the deformation of the boards due to constant fluctuations in humidity.

Used to prevent deformation protective impregnations- water repellents. Among the most famous impregnations, it is worth mentioning Aquatex - Extra and... ordinary drying oil. It is applied to the surface of the board heated in a water bath, in two layers without intermediate drying.

An important point: impregnation will have to be repeated every two to three years.
In terms of practicality, the board is not best material for the roof.

Sheathing

How to cover a house with overlapping boards with your own hands?

Sheathing starts from the bottom;
Several spacers are placed under the bottom of the first board.— scraps of wood that allow you to fix it at the desired angle to the wall;
The following boards are attached with an overlap of 5 centimeters. The fasteners (nails or screws) are hidden.

Joints and gaps are filled with polyurethane sealant. Can be used as a final coating weatherproof paint or decorative and protective impregnations.

Conclusion

Today they are becoming popular again natural materials not only for construction, but also for house cladding. One of these materials is wood, which is not only environmentally friendly, but also gives the structure an unusually attractive appearance. Sheathing a house can be done using different techniques, but edged boards laid with an overlap look best. This option is usually used when finishing a low building, country house in country style. After covering, the board can be varnished, painted, or impregnated with special oils to preserve its original appearance.

Roof cornice lining diagram.

The process itself, how to sheathe a house with edged boards with your own hands, is not so complicated, but it is necessary to strictly follow all the conditions and stages, use high-quality boards, and special additional elements in the form of corners. For work, two types of boards and corner elements are used. The internal one acts as a frame, the corners are mounted for the internal and external parts of the facade. External board will be the front one.

Installation of internal board

Sheathing the house with overlapping boards.

Covering the house with boards is carried out according to pre-made marks; a frame for fastening the outer board is required. During work, it is recommended to use a regular hammer; do not use a special nail gun. It is this feature that makes the work of covering a house with wood so long and requiring patience.

If you will use self-tapping screws to attach the inner board, you can purchase a screwdriver. This will speed up the work and make it better, but the inner row will still have to be fastened with nails; they should be 80 mm long. Before you start attaching the board, you must first treat it with an antiseptic and dry it. After this, each element is cut to obtain the required length. Front side The board is placed outward, the bend should be directed upward.

Exterior board installation

After everything is set interior boards, it is necessary to begin fastening the external ones. How to do this correctly?

Installation is carried out in an overlapping manner, with each previous board being laid on the adjacent board with an overlap of 250 mm.

Horizontal trim around the window.

Each board is pre-marked with an overlap so that the work is done quickly and efficiently. When drying, the material may become slightly deformed. Therefore, when purchasing, it is best to use well-dried wood.

Tools for work:

screwdriver;
jigsaw;
hammer;
ruler and building level.

When cladding a house, it is necessary to use a building level so that the surface facade finishing It turned out smooth and beautiful.

Options for joining boards for external wall cladding.

External fastening options edged boards a lot of:

In rustic, with lower end parts protruding at an angle, the groove is made at the bottom.
With a bevel into a tongue and groove. A complex profile is used, outer skin It turns out beautiful and stylish, the thickness of the board is significant.
Semi-rustic. The surface of the wall is smooth with small triangular grooves, the board is cut at an angle, the groove joint is not used, the overlap is angular.
With a quarter slope. The surface of the facade is smooth, a complex profile is used for connecting
Straight quarter. The surface of the facade is smooth and beautiful, the board is laid firmly and tightly, moisture does not have any opportunity to flow under the cladding. The grooves for fastening are cut at right angles, making the connection one of the most reliable and simplest.
Into the tongue. To lay the boards, a tongue and groove connection is used; it is important to cut the grooves using a template. Otherwise, reliable docking will not work. The facade has a smooth and beautiful surface, moisture does not flow into the wall, drafts will not bother you, as will heat loss.
Glue-on installation. The board is glued together, there is no overlap.

When is house cladding done? wooden board, experts advise sticking to certain rules, which will provide a beautiful and durable finish:

For work, it is best to take a board that is planed on one side and not on the other. The rough side of the material is mounted outward. Then the primer, and then the paint, will last much better and longer, and the appearance of the house will be more attractive.
The boards do not need to be nailed only at the bottom and at the top, as the material will easily split and absorb moisture. It is necessary to use the staggered fastening option, when the boards are fixed on the surface of the facade in increments of 30-45 cm, i.e. in a checkerboard pattern.
Wood of various species can be used for cladding a house. It can be cedar, pine, spruce, mahogany. Based on their experience, it is best to use cedar planks. They are not only durable, but at the same time easy to process and have a beautiful appearance. Mahogany is difficult to process; it is difficult to drive a nail into the surface, although it does not warp over time. Pine is distinguished by numerous beneficial properties, but for external use it is not very good, as it warps and splits easily. Spruce is rarely used for exterior work on facades, although its performance is much better than that of pine. Spruce boards are full of knots, but this is not in the best possible way affects quality.
Sheathing a house is best done with regular steel nails rather than galvanized ones. The problem is that the galvanized layer is easily peeled off during installation, and when exposed to moisture, the nails quickly rust. Stainless steel much more expensive, but the quality of finishing is higher.

Sheathing a building with edged boards is an attractive and simple option for anyone country house. This facade is not only stylish, but also environmentally friendly. After installation, the board can be varnished, painted, or impregnated with oil. It all depends on the imagination of the owner of the house and the general style of construction.

Today, natural materials are becoming popular again not only for construction, but also for cladding a house. One of these materials is wood, which is not only environmentally friendly, but also gives the structure an unusually attractive appearance. Sheathing a house can be done using different techniques, but edged boards laid with an overlap look best. This option is usually used when finishing a low building, a country house in a country style. After covering, the board can be varnished, painted, or impregnated with special oils to preserve its original appearance.

Installation of internal board

If you will use self-tapping screws to attach the inner board, you can purchase a screwdriver. This will speed up the work and make it better, but the inner row will still have to be fastened with nails; they should be 80 mm long. Before you start attaching the board, you must first treat it with an antiseptic and dry it. After this, each element is cut to obtain the required length. The front side of the board is placed outward, the bend should be directed upward.

Exterior board installation

After all the internal boards have been installed, it is necessary to begin fastening the external ones. How to do this correctly?

Installation is carried out in an overlapping manner, with each previous board being laid on the adjacent board with an overlap of 250 mm.

Tools for work:

screwdriver;
jigsaw;
hammer;
ruler and building level.

During the exterior cladding of the house, it is necessary to use a building level so that the surface of the façade finish is smooth and beautiful.

There are many options for fastening external edged boards:

In rustic, with lower end parts protruding at an angle, the groove is made at the bottom.
With a bevel into a tongue and groove. A complex profile is used, the external cladding is beautiful and stylish, and the thickness of the board is significant.
Semi-rustic. The surface of the wall is smooth with small triangular grooves, the board is cut at an angle, the groove joint is not used, the overlap is angular.
With a quarter slope. The surface of the facade is smooth, a complex profile is used for connecting
Straight quarter. The surface of the facade is smooth and beautiful, the board is laid firmly and tightly, moisture does not have any opportunity to flow under the cladding. The grooves for fastening are cut at right angles, making the connection one of the most reliable and simplest.
Into the tongue. To lay the boards, a tongue and groove connection is used; it is important to cut the grooves using a template. Otherwise, reliable docking will not work. The facade has a smooth and beautiful surface, moisture does not flow into the wall, drafts will not bother you, as will heat loss.
Glue-on installation. The board is glued together, there is no overlap.

When covering a house with wooden boards, experts advise adhering to certain rules that will ensure a beautiful and durable finish:

For work, it is best to take a board that is planed on one side and not on the other. The rough side of the material is mounted outward. Then the primer, and then the paint, will last much better and longer, and the appearance of the house will be more attractive.
The boards do not need to be nailed only at the bottom and at the top, as the material will easily split and absorb moisture. It is necessary to use the staggered fastening option, when the boards are fixed on the surface of the facade in increments of 30-45 cm, i.e. in a checkerboard pattern.
Wood of various species can be used for cladding a house. It can be cedar, pine, spruce, mahogany. Based on their experience, it is best to use cedar planks. They are not only durable, but also easy to process and have a beautiful appearance. Mahogany is difficult to process; it is difficult to drive a nail into the surface, although it does not warp over time. Pine has numerous beneficial properties, but it is not very good for external use, as it easily warps and splits. Spruce is rarely used for exterior work on facades, although its performance is much better than that of pine. Spruce boards are full of knots, and this does not have the best effect on quality.
Sheathing a house is best done with regular steel nails rather than galvanized ones. The problem is that the galvanized layer is easily peeled off during installation, and when exposed to moisture, the nails quickly rust. Stainless steel is much more expensive, but the quality of finish is higher.