Do-it-yourself wood trimming machine. Homemade practical miter saw Do-it-yourself circular miter saw

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The cross-cutting tool is lightweight and compact. Effective as stationary machine. Fixed fixation of the workpiece allows you to perform high-quality cuts. Some examples of miter saws include devices for optimizing angle cuts, a speed controller that allows you to select a mode depending on the type of material, required quality processing. You can make a trimming unit yourself.

Most often, the saw is assembled from a grinder.

For good work:

  • The original disk tool must perform at least 4500 rpm.
  • The length of the cut is at least 350 mm.

If necessary, the grinder installed on the miter saw table can be dismantled and used for its intended purpose.

Build process

First, a table is made on which the cutting unit will be installed. The frame is constructed from metal corner by welding method. The top of the stand is covered with a thick sheet of metal with a longitudinal hole. The edges of the bed are processed with a file.

A grinder saw is mounted on an axle. This allows you to trim workpieces at an angle. Fixed swivel mechanism by installing it on a bearing with a diameter of 150 mm. The structure is secured with a mechanism connected to the axle. The axle is lubricated from time to time to prevent squeaking and excessive friction.

To trim workpieces at a certain angle at the time of assembly, the saw is equipped with ears welded with outside machine at a short distance from each other. If this is not done, there will be play and the cutting accuracy will suffer.

During operation, it is necessary to ensure that sawdust does not get inside the bearing: this can lead to rapid wear of the mechanism and the rotation of the disk will be difficult. For additional protection you need to use lubricant.

The most effective for processing wood is a trimming machine with a broach and shock absorber. It is better to choose samples installed on trucks: they are more resistant to aggressive mechanical stress and durable. The part is freed from oil, supplied technological holes who will serve ventilation ducts. To protect against sawdust and wood dust, the holes are covered with a mesh with a fine cross-section of cells.

Another useful miter saw option is the soft start module. Thanks to it, the machine does not make sudden jerks when starting up. The principle of operation of the part is to reduce the speed at the start. As a result, the trimming cutting disc picks up speed gradually. It is difficult to assemble a stabilization module on your own. It is recommended to remove the part from another device or buy it.

On final stage make a shield to protect the miter saw from getting into work area cutter of third-party objects.

If there is a regular Circular Saw, you can make a movable carriage. It is easy to install, assembled from a plywood sheet, guide bars and fasteners: bolts, screws.

Important points

The machine makes a lot of noise when operating.

In order for the tool to accurately perform the intended cut when processing the ends of the workpiece, you need to try to position the grinder as accurately as possible relative to wooden parts. Adjust placement cutting element can be done using bars, and the rod must be secured with a bolt.

The cross-cutting machine can be installed in a garage, workshop, basement, and other places. The main thing that working structure was firmly connected to the base.

It is necessary to carefully select the saw blade. It must correspond to the specifics of the work and the characteristics of the material.


The presence of a miter saw in the arsenal of a summer resident greatly simplifies life. This type saws can be found in any construction supermarket, but the price of a branded miter saw will cause enormous damage to the family budget.

In order not to overpay, you can assemble a miter saw with a broach from scrap material and old tools that almost every self-respecting man has. In this article, we will look at the process of assembling a homemade miter saw and find out exactly what tools you may need for this.

Characteristics of a homemade miter saw:
✓ 350 mm cutting length;
✓ 4.5 thousand rpm;
✓ relatively light weight.

Advantages of a homemade miter saw

Since the design is based ordinary grinder, it can be removed and used when working with other materials. Homemade machine, unlike its factory counterpart, is completely universal, largely due to its light weight and ability complete disassembly. Another advantage of such a saw is the relatively inexpensive cost of assembly: no more than 500 rubles will be spent on everything (not counting the cost of a used grinder).

Disadvantages of a homemade miter saw

Difficulties in selecting the accuracy of cuts
For the highest quality result, you will have to make several rough passes, then fix the traction and make a finishing saw.

Noise
Due to the fact that the saw is based on a noisy grinder, the unit will produce a lot of noise. This shortcoming can be corrected with the help of a more modern device.

The nuances of assembling the design of a homemade miter saw

The upper rotating part of the unit is mounted on a kingpin with the largest bearing sold on the market. To 150 mm bearing with outside ears are attached through which the unit is attached to work surface using standard M6 screws. The clip is protected from debris by a specially made partition.

It is recommended to use shock absorbers from the front struts as a broach. passenger car which are used in many cars, for example in the VAZ 2108-15, and shock absorbers from a truck will make the structure too massive and unliftable. You can buy them at almost every scrap metal collection point. Before installation, you should disassemble the shock absorbers, drain the oil, make “air” holes and cover them with residual cloth.


For more comfortable work with the saw, you should adapt a soft start system to the angle grinder, because without it the starting jerk will be too strong. Moreover, installing the block helps reduce and regulate the number of revolutions. To increase safety, additional protection is attached to the angle grinder and the frame.

Miter saw- the same disk cut-off saw based on a regular circular. It allows you to cut with great precision required angle almost all materials - from plastic to metal. Such a tool costs from the manufacturer, that is, finished form, is not cheap, and assembling it yourself is not so difficult. Therefore, if you have an urgent need for a miter saw, and your hands grow out of the right place, further information will be very helpful.

Interesting! By assembling the tool with your own hands, any craftsman can easily find the cause of the breakdown and eliminate it, which will additionally save money.

A miter saw consists of several essential elements

  • the cutting disc itself;
  • a handle to hold and guide the tool;
  • engine;
  • footrest with start button.

Important! Regardless of the manufacturer, such a tool is always equipped with a durable disk, which makes it so versatile in use. If we set out to assemble the cross-cutting machine ourselves, then we buy the disk ourselves, and therefore do not forget that it is better not to save money in this matter, but to choose the most durable disk and precisely for such needs. Native disk from circular saw quite suitable.

Let's get to the heart of the matter: you have a circular saw and you are assembling a homemade miter saw. The first three points are already present in the circular saw itself, and the fourth may not be needed if you skillfully assemble the guide bar for the saw.

How to make a miter saw

For this you will need

  • plywood sheet;
  • aluminum corners;
  • self-tapping screws

Let's start assembling

  1. We cut out a rectangular sheet of plywood and make a long cut on it, along which your trimmer will ride;
  2. We screw two guides on top, for example, from an aluminum angle, to the width of the working plane of the circular itself;
  3. From below to the plywood sheet you need to screw two stands with a height equal to the cutting depth of your saw (5.3 cm).

As a result, we get a guide along which the circular will move. Depending on how we fix it on the table using this simple mechanism, we can make precise cuts at any angle. The simplest version of the design is ready.

But what if we want our miter saw to be more functional in operation and look like a factory miter saw? In this case, you will have to show more ingenuity.

  1. First, you need to make a bracket and a stand on which the circular will be attached. Chipboard (27 mm) is an excellent raw material for such a mechanism. Using self-tapping screws and aluminum corners, you will get a very decent upper part of the trim. And the springs attached to the top can make working on such a saw more convenient;
  2. Secondly, you need to fix the tripod itself on a movable rotating stand, make pendulum saw, thanks to which we will eventually be able to change the facing angle.

Carefully! Not only the quality of work and functionality of the trim, but also your personal safety will depend on what material you choose for the stand and tripod, and how securely you attach them to the stand. No wonder they say that « if the carpenter is experienced, then he is definitely without a finger » . Secure the circular as securely as possible! Safety is paramount!

As for the trim itself, everything is said about the assembly. However, if we decide to make a saw that looks like a factory saw, then it will be difficult to do without a table.

How to make a miter saw table with your own hands

A good material for a table would be a 19mm MDF board.

  1. Measure the depth and width of the entire structure (miter saw);
  2. Now measure the width and depth of the workbench on which the table and the trim itself will stand;
  3. As a result, the lower part of the table made of MDF board should be equal to the width and depth of the workbench, and the upper part should consist of two parts and in total be shorter in length by the width of the miter saw;
  4. The height of the table should be equal to the depth of the cut;
  5. Inside the table (between the top and bottom plates) at a distance of 50 cm, it is important to make rigid partitions from the same MDF board. This is necessary so that when pressed the table does not sag.

That's all for sure now. The miter saw from a regular circular saw is ready.

Interesting! A miter saw is a rather dangerous piece of equipment in itself, and if you also assembled it... with my own hands, the danger of such a mechanism can increase significantly! On the other hand, by assembling all the parts yourself and taking care of all kinds of protective boxes and casings, you can reduce the risk to a minimum. In this case, the rule applies: « Your safety only in your hands » .

Having the entire range of electric tools at home is too expensive. For example, a circular saw is rarely needed at home. Sawing boards can be done with a modernized grinder.

Manual electric circular saw The grinder is made by replacing the standard cutting disc with a wood cutting disc.

True, this option is suitable for short cuts. sheet materials or cutting thin slats. For long cutting lengths or on thick bars, there is danger of disc distortion, jamming it. It will be much easier to hold the saw if the handle is not positioned perpendicular to the axis of the tool, but is made an extension of the body.

Folk craftsmen also make handmade chain saw from Bulgarian. True, such a tool is dangerous for the user: the absence of a chain stopper can lead to unpredictable consequences. In addition, the chain is not lubricated, which leads to rapid wear.

Miter saw

Trimming, that is, cross-cutting boards or bars at right angles, turns out better if you use a special device.

You can also make such a machine from a grinder with your own hands.

  1. To do this, a grinder with a disk for wood is mounted on swivel bar perpendicular to the direction of the length of the board so that the plane of the disk is directed strictly vertically. One attachment point should be located in the area of ​​the gearbox, and the second should be at the opposite end of the machine.
  2. The gearbox housing has threaded holes for mounting standard handles. Using the corners and these holes, the grinder must be attached to the moving part of the machine.
  3. The back of the body is attached to the board with a clamp. Protective cover The disc can be used from any power tool of a suitable size.
  4. Closer to the vertical support you need to secure thrust angle. It should be located strictly perpendicular to the plane of the disk, both in the vertical and horizontal directions.

The spring at the rear end of the bar is used to return the miter saw to its original position after finishing the cut. Horizontal table must have a transverse groove into which the disk fits when cutting the board. Disc diameter choose based on the width of the boards. This way, trimming can be done in one go. The main thing is that the inner hole of the disk must coincide with the mount on the gearbox axis.

When working on such a machine, it should be taken into account that the drive power is not intended for heavy loads. Therefore, the rotating disk must be brought smoothly to the surface of the part being cut, and the cut must be made without strong pressure.

Table saw

Sometimes there is a need to change the width of the board or the thickness of the block. The best option for such work - a circular saw, especially if there are a lot of boards. Very useful for cutting boards of short length (1-2 m) desktop version circulars. It is not necessary to buy such a machine; you can make it yourself from the same grinder.

The design of a circular saw is much more complex cross-cutting machine. The contact time of the saw blade with the wood is quite long, therefore the reliability of attaching the grinder body to the frame should be higher.

This is what one of the options for a tabletop circular might look like.

The photo shows that the desktop consists of two planes:

  • the upper table is designed to advance the workpiece;
  • The lower one serves as a stop for the sander.

The disc passes through a groove in the top surface. If the angle of contact of the two planes is provided with rotary hinges, then it will be possible to adjust the working height saw blade to reduce the area of ​​rubbing surfaces.

The head of the bolt with which the angle grinder is secured is clearly visible on the top surface of the table. Protruding bolt limits the width of the processed board. You can cope with this problem by laying another layer of plywood.

Turning the angle grinder on and off using the key on the body is quite inconvenient. If the key can be fixed in the working position, then it is worth installing a socket with a switch on the outside of the machine.

The stop angle must have the maximum possible length to prevent the board from deviating from the cutting direction. It is better to fasten the corner in such a way that you can change the working distance between it and the disk: then the width of the cut part will also change.

Stationary circular

You can use a grinder as a working mechanism in stationary conditions. The bed in this case will have a slightly different design. The stationary option implies the presence of free space and a large amount of work. Therefore, the entire structure can be made more solid, more massive, and, therefore, more reliable.

Bed frame can be made from a corner with a welded joint. Bolted and other types of detachable fasteners lose their grip due to constant vibration, and the structure begins to wobble.

Above metal frame desktop is attached from wide board or thick plywood. The workpiece will move along it. Stop angle equipped with a movable mount for adjusting the cutting width.

It would be nice to provide for adjusting the height of the table or the extension of the disk above its surface - then it will be possible to cut longitudinal grooves on the board.

On the side of the machine there are controls: socket and on/off buttons. In the stationary version, it makes sense to exclude the key on the body of the angle grinder from the diagram. If there is enough space, a high-power sander can be used as a drive.

How to make a sawmill from an angle grinder is shown in this video:

The nuances of using a homemade circular saw

It should not be lost sight of that the grinder for its main purpose is angle grinder. Therefore, when using it as a homemade circular saw, you need to pay attention to the nuances.

  1. The duration of continuous cutting should not exceed 15-20 minutes to avoid overheating of the engine.
  2. The standard guard on the blade is not suitable for a circular saw. The protective casing can be used from a real circular saw or made independently.

It should be remembered that the rotation speed of the sander can be more than 10,000 revolutions per minute - this is several times higher than the speed of woodworking machines. At this speed, the wood begins to smoke. Except unpleasant odor, possible fire.

For those who like to craft, a miter saw is one of the most popular and mandatory tools. Having replaced the primitive miter box, it quickly gained popularity in small workshops and in large production.
The advantage of this tool is accurate and safe cutting at right or specified angles. The engine is most often located above the frame, and is mounted on a movable carriage with a handle. The cutting depth is set by limiters at the base, and by hand. Power tools of this kind have already been appreciated by many professional craftsmen and novice amateurs. We invite you to do this too!

The advantage of homemade trimming

Today, no one is surprised by a miter saw. A lot of modifications, from branded ones to cheap Chinese ones, with longitudinal and angular cuts are present on the market. However, their cost sometimes goes through the roof, and the accuracy does not always correspond to the declared one. Is it possible to do without purchasing a specialized tool, you ask.
Our proposed installation proves that a rip-cut miter saw can be made at home. The costs of its assembly are minimal. In addition, the drill on which our trim is made can also be used for its intended purpose.

Required materials and tools

Consumables:
  • For the frame: a sheet of plywood 14-20 mm thick, galvanized on one plane;
  • Cutting disc with pobedit soldering for longitudinal cutting, diameter – 125 mm;
  • Three pieces of plywood: 30x15 cm - for the handle, 24x15 cm - for the carriage, 18x14 - for the base stand;
  • One-piece window hinge-1 PC;
  • Drill (possible without reverse);
  • Two pairs of U-shaped detachable guides for furniture drawers;
  • Hardware: bolts, nuts, screws;
  • Cardboard for template;
  • Wood glue, wood varnish.
Tools:
  • Drill or screwdriver;
  • Jigsaw with wood saw;
  • Pliers, drills, nozzles for tightening screws;
  • Painting knife, tape measure, pencil, brush for varnish and glue.





Let's get started

1. Secure the base stand

We mark the position of the base post on the frame, shifting it to the left side from the middle, and cut the galvanized sheet under it with a chisel.


We take a piece of 18x14 plywood and screw it vertically onto 3 self-tapping screws, having previously glued the connection to the frame.




For more stability, you can add several stops in the form of corners from the same plywood. We glue them on both sides of our stand.

2. Making a handle

Using a template prepared in advance, we mark the handle of our cross-cutting tool. We use a piece of plywood 30x15cm.


It is convenient to cut curved lines with a jigsaw. Closed loop You must first drill with an 8-9mm drill to match the width of the jigsaw file.


After cutting, we process the edge of the plywood with a rasp or sandpaper, and make the handle streamlined and without burrs.

3. Connect the handle to the carriage

For this we need furniture guides.


We attach one of their parts to the sides of the handle, the second to the carriage.



Both pairs of guides must coincide so that the frame and the handle are practically in the same plane, and ensure free movement of the handle without any jamming.


4. Secure the drill

From the back of the carriage we attach the drill holder to the screws. It can be made from a small piece of plywood by making a sufficient hole for the cartridge.



We press the drill with a cuff made of a galvanized plate, pulling it onto the handle with self-tapping screws.


5. Install the carriage

For a more convenient arrangement of workpieces on the bed and trimming them, it is necessary that our carriage has a vertical stroke. This condition will be provided to us by the window hinge.


We screw it with self-tapping screws onto the edge of the carriage and to the base so that the moving part can rise and fall to the position right angle. In this case, the carriage will act as a stopper and will not allow the cutting disk to fall below the specified level.


6. The final stage of work - install the cutting disc, protective cover and limit bar

Using an M8 bolt, 50-60mm long, we make a shaft for our trimming machine. For the disk, it is best to choose wider washers, because mounting hole cutting discs of this diameter can be 15-20mm.
We tighten the disk on our shaft with a locknut and clamp it in the drill chuck with a wrench.



We place the protective cover above the cutting disc and also attach it to the screws. It should be made from a plate more than 1mm thick.


Let's do trial run our miter saw and check its longitudinal stroke. Cutting disc should go literally a few millimeters into the frame.

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