Pipes for the kitchen sink. How to assemble and install a siphon for a kitchen sink? Purpose and standard equipment of the siphon

Installing a siphon in the kitchen is very simple task, which takes a maximum of 20 minutes and requires nothing more than a screwdriver. Especially if you need to install a new trap on a new sink that has not yet been installed. But if you need to replace an old device, then the difficulty will lie mainly in dismantling, rather than installation. Therefore, there is little point in calling a plumber and spending money on it.

There are different siphons for the kitchen - for regular and double sinks, with the ability to connect to a washing machine or dishwasher, with or without an overflow, made of metal or plastic, like a bottle or pipe. But they are all installed approximately according to the same principle, so we wrote one step by step instructions with an addition - for installing a siphon with an overflow and installing a double siphon for a two-bowl sink.

And, of course, all siphons have one repurpose - not to allow gases, that is, odors from the sewer, to pass through using a water seal formed in the sump, and also to retain food debris, garbage, and small objects in it.

In this instruction, we will look at the method of installing a regular plastic bottle-type siphon, which most often complements the kitchen sink, because it is very easy to clean.

You will need

Screwdriver – for removal you need a strong screwdriver the right size, and when installing a new siphon, you can even get by with a coin, especially if you purchased modern model siphon;
Hacksaw, tape measure, sandpaper– sometimes needed for cutting pipes or corrugations to the required size and grinding their edges.

Step 1. Dismantling the old siphon

Before installing a new kitchen siphon, you need to remove the old one. To do this, take a strong screwdriver and unscrew the screw in the center of the grille in the drain hole as shown in the photo on the right. Be sure to place a basin under the siphon. When the siphon is removed, wipe clean drainer.

The nut and screw of the drain grate often stick to each other over time, and therefore are very difficult to unscrew. If you cannot unscrew the screw, then you need to disconnect the lower part of the siphon, leaving one pipe, and then try to twist it to help the nut and screw release. Most often, these manipulations are sufficient.

Step 2. Assembling the siphon

Lay out all the parts in front of you, grouping them by type, and then you will see that there are a lot of parts only at first glance, but in fact, you can assemble them intuitively, since all the gaskets are sized to the corresponding parts of the siphon.

Construction of a bottle siphon (without overflow): sealing rings of different diameters, union nuts, a pipe, 2 parts of the siphon, corrugation, as well as a drain grid and screw;
All elements must be tightened tightly, but not too tightly, so as not to damage the fragile plastic threads and gaskets.

Here's how to properly assemble a kitchen siphon:

First we take the largest flat gasket and put it on the most big hole siphon, and then screw the cap to it. Now you will see that the siphon has 2 holes of different diameters - on the top and on the side.

Now we take the pipe (it will be attached to the sink) and select a cone gasket and union nut that are suitable in diameter. First, put the union nut on the pipe, then pull the cone gasket with the blunt end up. We insert the pipe into the upper hole of the siphon and tighten them tightly, but not too tightly.

Sometimes the pipe with the drain funnel must first also be connected into a single whole;
Be careful - there must be a nut in this drain funnel of the pipe; do not lose it during operation.

All that remains is to screw the corrugated pipe in the same way: put a union nut on it, then pull the conical gasket with the blunt end up, and then screw the corrugation to the siphon. Well, that's all, the siphon is assembled. We will need the remaining details for the next step.

Step 3: Siphon installation

It's time to install the assembled device:

We place the corrugated o-ring strips up on the siphon pipe, and pull the remaining ring under the metal grille as shown in the photo below;
Now we place the siphon under the sink (under the drain hole), hold it and level it, and on top, i.e. already above the sink, place a metal grate;
insert the screw into the grille and tighten it with a screwdriver or coin.

Step 4. Connect the corrugation to the sewer riser

The last step is to simply connect the corrugation to the sewer, extending it to the required length.

Typically, the diameter of corrugations for sewerage is 50 or 40 mm, and the corrugations themselves are often produced in a diameter of 50 mm, which can be cut with a hacksaw to 40 mm if necessary;
Instead of a corrugated pipe, it is possible and even desirable to use a rigid outlet.

Now we check the siphon for leaks, fill it with water to form a water seal. If it doesn’t leak anywhere, then you did everything right.

Addition - installation of a siphon with overflow

If your sink has an overflow, then installing the siphon will be carried out in approximately the same sequence as described above. Except that at the stage of assembling the device (see step No. 2), you will need to additionally assemble the overflow itself, as shown in the photo below. The principle of connecting the overflow to the outlet of the pipe is exactly the same as in the previous instructions - first we put on the nut, then the ring gasket with the blunt end to the overflow, then we insert the overflow into the outlet and tighten the nut.

A two-section sink must be equipped with a specially designed double siphon. Such siphons have two outlets, which are united by one siphon, which can be either flask-shaped or tubular. They may also have outlets for a washing machine or dishwasher, as in the photo on the left.

The installation is carried out according to the principle described above, with the only difference that you first need to screw two pipes with a drain to two sinks, then under the sinks you need to connect the two pipes with a conductor, and then screw the remaining parts of the device to the conductor. If necessary, the pipes must be cut to the required length with a hacksaw, sanding the edges with sandpaper.

Frequent blockages, slow drainage, leaks and infiltration sewer odors into the room - all this suggests that the kitchen sink requires urgent Care. In most cases, such problems are caused by poor-quality installation or broken siphon. To replace it, it is not at all necessary to call specialized specialists from the utility service, since you can install a siphon in the kitchen yourself.

Types of siphons and selection rules

The functional purpose of siphons is, first of all, to protect against penetration unpleasant odors into the room from the intra-house sewer system. Despite the apparent variety of models, the principle of operation of the devices is almost the same. When used water is drained from various sanitary fixtures, part of it remains inside the siphon, forming a water plug that prevents the occurrence of extraneous odors and noise when using the sewer system. Similar products are represented by the following types:

flexible corrugated S-shaped hose;
U-shaped pipe structure;
bottle-shaped element.

The main disadvantage of the design of the first two types of siphons is the lack of inspection, which greatly complicates preventive work during their maintenance during operation. Such siphons are most often used for washbasins in toilets and bathrooms. For kitchen sink It is considered more practical to use bottle-shaped products. Their collapsible body allows you to periodically clean the hydraulic seal container from accumulated food debris and fatty deposits on the walls of the siphon.

The determining criterion in choosing one type of bottle siphon or another is, first of all, the design of the sink itself. It may have an additional drain hole in the upper part of the side wall, which serves to prevent water from overflowing over the edge when the container is filled to the maximum. In this case, you should pay attention to siphons with an additional overflow pipe.

For double sinks, the connection to the sewer system may include one common or two separate siphons for each tank. Such designs are distinguished by somewhat complicated communication wiring.

Installing a siphon in the kitchen makes it possible to connect a nearby dishwasher or washing machine to its drain pipe. This additional option greatly simplifies the connection process household appliances to the sewer, so when choosing a suitable product, this point should also not be overlooked.

When selecting a siphon, the diameter of its drain pipe is of no small importance. The maximum possible size of the hole for a particular kitchen sink model will ensure faster drainage of recycled water and prevent frequent blockages.

Main components and components

Bottle siphons produced today have quite standard view and are a structure consisting of several main components.

Protective metal grid with decorative nickel plating.
Overflow pipe.
Additional outlet for connecting a dishwasher or washing machine.
Siphon body.
Outlet pipe for connection to sewer system.
Silicone gasket that ensures the tightness of the threaded connection of the collapsible siphon body.
Union nuts.

In addition, the product includes flexible corrugated hoses, gaskets for union nuts and several metal screws for fastening.

The vast majority of such products are made from plastic. Therefore, before changing the siphon in the kitchen, you should make sure that all its components are intact. First of all, the body of the product should not have hidden cracks. This can be easily checked by pouring some water into its container. Also, attention should be paid to the notch of the thread of plastic parts, its relief, the absence of visible dents and burrs.

Installing or replacing a siphon in the kitchen requires some additional materials and tools necessary for work. In most cases, they are always at hand for the home craftsman:

screwdriver;
pliers;
insulating tape made of polymer material;
silicone sealant.

Despite the almost complete absence of water pressure in the kitchen sink drain system, many experts nevertheless strongly recommend using waterproof sealant, specially designed for production plumbing work. Everything must be treated with the composition threaded connections products, as well as installed gaskets.

The use of sealant is prerequisite for high-quality siphon assembly!

Assembly must be carried out in strict accordance and in a strictly specified order, determined by the attached instructions. In this case, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

It is advisable to disassemble the assembled product to ensure that all parts and gaskets are present;
there should be no dirt or burrs on the elements being connected that would prevent them from fitting tightly;
When screwing the bottom cover of the siphon, you should not use excessive force, as this can easily break the thread or push through the included gasket.

To check the quality of the siphon assembly for leaks, you need to pour a small amount of water into it. If there are no smudges on the bottom cover, you can safely begin installing it.

Installation of the assembled siphon

In cases of replacing a previously installed product, its preliminary dismantling will be required. Before disassembling the siphon in the kitchen, you need to place some kind of container under the sink to drain the remaining water. Then, using a screwdriver, unscrew the fixing screw holding the drain decorative grille at the bottom of the sink. After disconnecting the outlet from the sewer, the siphon can be finally removed.

To install a new device, the old one seat The kitchen sink must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and grease deposits. You will also need to check the condition of the rubber sealing coupling on the outlet pipe of the sewer system, which, however, is recommended to be replaced with a new coupling. At the same time, preventive cleaning of the sewer bed itself will not be superfluous.

Installation of the assembled siphon is carried out in the following sequence:

an outlet pipe is inserted into the drain hole of the sink, with a pre-installed rubber gasket, onto which a decorative grille is attached with a screw;
from below, the outlet is tightly attached to the sink using a union nut;
the assembled siphon is placed on the end of the pipe, after which the elements are connected into a single structure with a second union nut;
if there is an overflow hole in the sink, it is connected to the corresponding outlet of the drain pipe using the supplied flexible hose;
A corrugated outlet hose leading to the kitchen sewer system is connected to the outlet of the siphon, located on the side wall of the housing. To do this, use another union nut;
on final stage They connect to the sewer pipe using a transitional sealing coupling, since the mating parts have different diameters.

Upon completion of installation, perform an initial check assembled structure by filling the kitchen sink with water.

If the siphon has additional outlets for connecting household appliances, they must first be closed with special plugs!

If there are no leaks, proceed to connecting the drain hoses of the washing machine or dishwasher, after which the installation of the siphon can be considered complete.

The operation of gravity sewerage requires compliance certain rules. When wondering how to properly install a siphon in the kitchen, you should take into account some nuances that are well known to professionals:

a flexible drain hose leading from the siphon to the sewer pipe is installed to the minimum possible length, without unnecessary bends;
the slope of a sewer bed with a diameter of 50 mm can be at least 0.03, that is, 30 mm for each linear meter pipes that will ensure normal water flow in the system;
When connecting drain hoses from household appliances to the siphon, they must be additionally secured to the corresponding pipes with clamps. This precaution will prevent unexpected breakdown of the hose as a result of an increase in pressure created in the drainage system of operating equipment.

In conclusion, it remains to add that proper care and regular preventative cleaning of the siphon from accumulated contaminants will significantly extend its service life and eliminate discomfort when using the kitchen sink.

Full use of the kitchen is impossible without a sink. This is a plumbing device consisting of two elements: a bowl and a siphon, which is directly connected to the sewer system. Proper installation of the structure allows you to reliably protect the apartment from unpleasant odors from the pipe, harmful bacteria and microbes found in large quantities in wastewater.

A siphon is a pipe with a bend in which water and other small particles are retained and drained into the sewer.

Types of models

There are several design options:

Flask-shaped
Elbows
Corrugated
Hidden
Flat

Flask-shaped models are a prefabricated structure that can be quickly attached without using special tool.

The knee design is one of the simplest among all model options, which allows you to clear the blockage or change any elements in a matter of minutes. The pipe can be bent into a U or S shape, allowing the space to be used with maximum efficiency.

The corrugated version has a design similar to its pipe counterpart. The difference is in the use of a corrugated hose, which gives it the ability to bend in any direction. But there is one significant drawback: the corrugated tube quickly becomes clogged, as a result of which you have to disassemble and clean it more often. Even a person can connect and remove such a siphon without the use of special tools or plumbing knowledge.

The model is a hidden siphon, mounted in a wall or kitchen structure. It will not be visible from the outside, which allows you not to spoil the overall picture with your appearance. It is advisable to use this option in small kitchens.

Installation of a flask-shaped model

To execute correct connection Each kit comes with a diagram, the main thing is to follow some rules

For a sealed connection between the bottom cover and the top part of the body, a rubber gasket is installed
The lid screws tightly on the bottom
A union nut is placed on the pipe securing the siphon to the sink
To adjust the height of the product, a conical washer is installed on the lower part of the pipe
The pipe is connected to the cone and secured with a nut
Outlet pipe connects to the drain: the nut is placed on the pipe, after which the cone gasket is advanced until it stops.
The final stage of assembly is connecting the hose pipe and the housing using a nut

The next step is to connect to the sink, which is also quite simple.

It is necessary to ensure that the dimensions of the siphon are suitable for the sewer pipe. To create a tight connection, it is necessary to install a rubber gasket.
A protective mesh is installed on the drain hole in the sink
A siphon is attached to the sink using a screw with the obligatory installation of a rubber seal
Final stage consists of installing a drain hose

After completion of the work, it is necessary to conduct tests to ensure that the structure is functional and there are no leaks. To do this, just turn on the water and make sure that all elements are connected tightly. By pulling the elements installed structure the leak is eliminated. Sometimes water runs through the connection with the sink, so it is necessary to correct the seal, which is installed with deviation.

Installation of a structure with overflow

In addition to the installation operations of the conventional model, some additional steps must be performed. The outlet pipe is connected to the bottom of the overflow pipe. This only needs to be done when connecting the sink to the siphon. After this, the upper part of the tube is attached to the overflow hole of the sink. The work is simple and not labor-intensive, but in case correct installation a sink filled with water will flow into the sewer through the drain.

So that after completion of the work there will be no unnecessary problems, need to do right choice, observing simple rules how to assemble a siphon for a kitchen sink

Smooth-walled models are the easiest to clean.
To prevent unpleasant odors from entering during installation, it is better to plug the sewer pipe with a rag or install a plug.
Before installing the rubber seal and screwing the siphon to the sink, it is necessary to degrease the area around the drain.
For reliable protection from leaks rubber seals additionally sealed. The remaining joints are subjected to the same procedure. Only the bottom siphon cover does not require this, because it will have to be unscrewed for cleaning.
To prevent leaks at the bottom of the lid, tow can be used as a seal.
Perfect option, if the siphon hole exactly matches the hole diameter sewer pipe.
It is not necessary to purchase a siphon at the same time as a sink. This can be done as needed, the main thing is their combination in size and design.

It is not enough to simply buy a siphon for the kitchen sink. It is important to install it correctly and for this you need to carefully study the instructions and strictly follow its recommendations. Often, inexpensive siphons are installed faster and easier than their expensive counterparts of a more complex design.

Installing a siphon with your own hands is such a simple operation that there is no point in inviting a master plumber to do it. Siphons modern design designed for assembly by hand; only in some cases a screwdriver may be needed. A miniature one will also come in handy led flashlight for illuminating hard to see places.

However, the work of installing a siphon is dangerous, and for good reason: you will have to clean sewer pipe and keep it open for a while. To prevent the siphon from becoming a source of trouble in the future, you need to use quality materials and strictly follow the instructions for installing the siphon.

Precautionary measures

Fecal water and sludge are very toxic and chemically aggressive substances; Sewer gases are also explosive. The danger is compounded by the fact that toxic substances can enter the body through intact skin.

Mainline plumbers are well aware of this and do not neglect safety precautions. Domestic plumbers rarely have to deal with large masses of toxic substances or gas emissions from a pipe, but in each such case the consequences are severe precisely because of the neglect of safety precautions.

Apartment residents have nothing to fear: the water seal in the siphon elbow reliably locks the pipe outlet. But when replacing the siphon, its pipe will be open, and you will have to work with your hands in the immediate vicinity of the sludge deposits and clean it off. Therefore, stock up on latex gloves, a plastic apron and a petal respirator. If suddenly you experience that same 1 in 10,000 cases, it will do no harm.

Siphon material

Drain siphons are mainly made of chrome-plated brass, PVC or propylene (polyisopropylene). Brass ones are the most expensive; their use can only be justified from the point of view of aesthetics and prestige. Otherwise, they are inferior in all respects to plastic siphons, including durability: if accidentally hit, a plastic siphon will come loose or be dented, while a brass siphon may break or twist out of the pipe.

PVC is the cheapest and has the least hydraulic resistance. But with regular draining hot water The PVC siphon lasts 5-7 years. A propylene siphon is 5-20% more expensive than similar PVC, but if installed correctly it will last for decades. Hydraulic resistance for a siphon does not play a big role, and durable and chemically resistant propylene can be cleaned many times with a hook or cable, and the miasma from the pipe will not corrode it. Propylene is especially good for acrylic bathtub: their coefficients thermal expansion almost equal.

When purchasing a plastic siphon, be sure to check its completeness and quality:

Outlet pipe. The threaded insert must be metal.
Rubber gasket of the outlet pipe (spout).
Two plastic nuts with a diameter of 32/40/50 mm.
Conical rubber cuff with a diameter of 32/40/50 mm.
Installation cuff with a soft plastic skirt with a diameter of 32/40/50 mm.
Stainless steel clamping screw. Brass, even chrome plated, will turn green, but plain steel will rust with any coating.
Decorative drain cover. Also made of stainless steel.
Drain gasket. Material: oil-heat-resistant rubber (white) or silicone plastic. The polyethylene gasket is rejected without hesitation.
Siphon body (bottle or elbow).
Bottom siphon plug with rubber ring gasket. Only for bottle siphon.
Rubber drain plug.

A drain pipe

Drain pipes are used rigid or corrugated. It is easier to work with a corrugated pipe, especially under a bathtub, but corrugated pipes are not suitable for a kitchen sink: sludge accumulates intensively in the internal hollows of the corrugated pipe (the kitchen drain is the dirtiest) and the corrugation inside kitchen cabinet in the vicinity of a bucket or other objects it is easier to damage.

Sealant

When installing a siphon, you will need a plastic or semi-liquid sealant. The best in terms of properties and inexpensive is silicone. You just need to make sure that it doesn’t turn out to be acidic. The test for chemical neutrality is very simple: squeeze a little and smell. If it smells like vinegar, it’s no good, it’s acidic. A sealant suitable for plumbing should either have no odor at all, or the odor should be weak and not pungent.

Occasionally, sealant based on natural rubber (“Germeplast”, etc.) is found on sale. It looks like grayish or yellowish sticky plasticine. Very expensive, but the quality is indicated only by the estimated service life: 70 years. If necessary, the connection can be depressurized and the sealant can be reused.

Connection dimensions

The connecting dimensions of the sewer pipes are 32, 40 and 50 mm. Before buying a siphon, you need to measure the diameter of the old spout, and it is advisable to take a new one with the same fit. If there is no suitable siphon of the required size, you will have to buy a transition cuff. Siphons with a stepped spout end are also available for sale in all three sizes. The excess is cut off, and the lower seal is purchased separately.

In the last two cases, the sealing collar must be purchased immediately, while the siphon is in your hands, and immediately checked how it fits on the spout, how elastic and durable it is. A siphon with large burrs on the edge of the spout that prevents the cuff from seating should not be taken: this indicates low quality plastic. The manufacturer is most likely “alternative” and produces general-purpose PVC plumbing fixtures.

Preparatory work

Preparation for installing a siphon comes down to dismantling the old one and cleaning the inner surface of the sewer pipe. When performing the last operation, you should not bother too much in the mud: the material (special rubber) of the cuff is designed to fit into a rough socket.

Difficulties may arise if the Soviet cast iron embedded in the pipe on cement is changed. In this case, you will have to work with a 50 g hammer and a chisel or chisel to tear out the old monster and remove the remaining cement from the pipe.

Attention: Remember that you are working with brittle cast iron. And make sure that cement fragments do not remain in the pipe, they will become a source of permanent blockages. It is convenient to remove debris from the pipe using tweezers or duckbill pliers.

Kitchen

Installing a siphon in the kitchen is both simple and complex. Simple - because the pipe and sink are quite easily accessible. Difficult - because the required kitchen siphon can be quite complex design. A washing machine requires a siphon with an additional fitting. If the kitchen also has Dishwasher- with two. For a double sink, you will need a siphon with a double drain.

In addition, in new houses the sewer pipe is located on the wall and goes directly into the riser; In this case, there are several risers per apartment. From the point of view of sanitation and hygiene, this is excellent, but the release of the siphon will no longer go down, but back or sideways. Some types of kitchen siphons are shown in the figure; Using the diagram on the left you can calculate the size of the free space for the siphon.

Instructions for installing a siphon in the kitchen

Check the fit of the drain grate in the sink sink. It may turn out that the stamping in the sink is too shallow. This is unacceptable: the puddle around the protruding grille will quickly become a breeding ground for infection. In such a case, it is advisable to agree with the seller about a replacement when purchasing. As an extreme option, install the grate without a gasket, on a sealant.
We place an installation collar lubricated with sealant into the sewer pipe. The installation surface of the pipe must be dry.
We check the end (joining) surfaces of the body threads. With a sharp knife cut off burrs and flash (they can damage the gaskets) and use it or a scraper (reamer) to remove chamfers of 0.5-1 mm.
Cut the outlet end to size if necessary drain pipe, insert it into the cuff and secure it. If the fastening is with a clamp, you will need a screwdriver to tighten the clamp screw. The threaded end of the outlet pipe should face the body of the siphon (bottle or elbow).
If the spout goes down, place a square on the upper end of the outlet pipe on the sealant.
We install a drain grate in the sink sink. We are not installing the bottom black rubber gasket yet.

Place a thin cork in the groove O-ring and lubricate with sealant, covering the root part of the thread by 2-3 turns. We wrap the cork.
Insert a valve into the outlet pipe of the bottle, if provided. The valve flap must open outwards.
We connect the siphon bottle to the outlet pipe: place a conical outlet gasket on the sealant with the narrow end to the bottle, insert it into the bottle, and screw the side nut of the bottle onto the thread. We don’t tighten it too tight.
We place the lower drain gasket in the groove of the upper pipe of the bottle on the sealant, bring it to the drain pipe of the drain grate, and loosely tighten the upper nut of the bottle.
Rocking the bottle slightly, alternately tighten the top and side nuts of the bottle tightly.
If the fittings of the washing machine and sink are not yet used, we plug them with rubber plugs, complete or suitable in size. Otherwise, we simply pull the drain hoses onto them.

Note: The work of installing the siphon must be done in one go, while the sealant is fresh. The sealant retains its plasticity, but if you move the joint just an hour after its application, the connection will be unreliable. When washing the drain grids twice, both are installed at once, and three nuts will have to be finally tightened.

About the valve

In the event of a flood, even an unkempt, slimy valve can save the apartment: it can be dealt with spring cleaning, not repairs. But the valve becomes overgrown with sludge, so the siphon with the valve must be periodically disassembled and cleaned. That's why:

On top floor, or in new houses with separate risers the valve is not needed at all: there is no one to fill it and/or it is impossible.
In 97% of cases, when the sewage system is unbroken, the first floor is flooded. Here a valve is necessary in any case.
In other cases, be guided by the neighbors BELOW: how neat, respectable and prone they are to illegal amateur activities, such as installing a catcher pin in a riser.

Bath

Installing a siphon on a bathtub begins with installing the overflow. The work is greatly simplified if the overflow pipe is corrugated. If the overflow pipe is rigid, you will first have to measure the length of the overflow pipe as carefully as possible and select a siphon along it. A drawing and assembly diagram of a bath siphon are shown in the figure.

At non-standard bath adjustment will still be required, but the threads at the ends of the overflow pipe are made with a small margin, which will be enough. However, when installing a new siphon, you will first have to install it “on a live thread” without sealing, and also install an overflow grille. After this, accurately fit the overflow pipe into place and then assemble it completely. Considering that you will have to work in a tight, dark space “in a supine position” and often with one hand, and the bathtub overflow almost never gets clogged, the choice of a bathtub siphon is clearly decided in favor of a design with a corrugated overflow.

Instructions for installing a siphon with a corrugated overflow on a bathtub

We assemble the overflow immediately “to the fullest”, with sealing and tight tightening of connections, except for the lower end; Let him hang out in the air for now. Assembly - similar to drain kitchen sink. We place the conical gaskets with the narrow side towards the union nut. The conical mating mounting surface underneath can be easily felt with a finger.
We also completely assemble the drain, bottle and outlet. The technology is “kitchen”, the only difference is in the configuration of the parts and the tee for the overflow, inserted between the bottle and the drain, and in the absence of additional fittings.
Connect the overflow. Here you also need to pay attention to the lower conical gasket: the narrow end is towards the union nut and/or the mating conical surface.
After a day (we are not using the bathtub yet), we completely fill the bathtub ourselves. hot water, check for leaks and overflow operation.

Wash basin

After the kitchen and especially the bath, installing a siphon for the washbasin is child's play. One drain, no fittings - but no frills.

Bottom line

The siphon is the most important plumbing fixture. The malfunction of this simple device will lead to the appearance of an invisible, but very harmful infection in the apartment. Therefore, when installing the siphon, you need to carefully seal and tighten the threaded connections tightly, in several stages with rocking.

Video: assembling a siphon for a sink

Assembly and installation of the sink is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions, which indicate a list the necessary tool for execution installation work, as well as a diagram of connecting the device to the sewerage system. By following this guide, you can assemble and install a sink drain yourself, without calling a plumber. The drain hole in the sink must be covered with a special metal grille, protecting the sewer pipe from food waste when processing raw materials and washing dishes. To collect debris penetrating through the grate, the drainage system is equipped with a plastic siphon, which can be easily removed after filling for cleaning. In addition, a siphon filled with water prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors from the sewer pipe into the kitchen or bathroom. To prevent the sink from overflowing, manufacturers offer to install a sink drain with an overflow. An additional corrugated or rigid plastic tube connects the hole in the top of the sink to the drainage system in the area preceding the siphon.

This video shows sinks with side drains, which are used in small spaces. To save space, they are placed underneath washing machines. In this case, it is better to entrust the installation of the drainage system to a professional plumber.

How does a classic drain work?

This is what a drainage diagram looks like for a kitchen sink that is not equipped with an overflow system.

Consistent connection of all components will ensure normal functioning of the drain

1. Protective grille.

2. Rubber gasket.

3. Outlet pipe.

4. Connecting screw.

5. Drain-outlet base.

6. Bottle-type siphon body.

7. Coupling nut.

8. Cone gasket.

9. Standard sewer outlet.

13. Siphon cover.

14. Rubber gasket.

Additionally: symbols 1c, 3c, 12a, 12b indicate gaskets, 1a – plastic plug for the drain hole.

This sink drain system is installed in the following order:

first make a connection to the sink;
then the main part of the siphon is assembled;
V last resort connect the structure to the sewerage system.

A protective grille, equipped with 5-6 divisions, is installed on the drain hole of the sink, not forgetting to lay a gasket between them. Then a rubber gasket, the thickness of which is 3-5 mm, is attached to the side of the outlet pipe. The other end of the pipe has been chamfered, which ensures its free entry into the siphon. Pressing the upper part of the pipe tightly against the sink, insert a connecting screw, 6-8 mm in diameter, into the protective grille and begin to screw it flat screwdriver into the pipe nut, which is tightly inserted into a special recess. At this point, the stage of connecting the drain to the sink can be considered complete.

Assembling the main part of the siphon begins by putting a plastic coupling nut on the outlet pipe, and then a conical gasket. Next, insert the pipe into the upper part of the siphon body, pushing it to the desired height. Then lower the nut and tighten it by hand without using tools. A flat large gasket made of rubber is placed in the siphon cover and screwed to the body.

Important! The glass (lid) of the siphon often becomes clogged with food waste, so it is periodically removed and washed. For this reason, it is not recommended to use silicone sealant to seal the joint between the siphon body and its lid. To create a tight connection, you can use plumbing tape.

View of the assembled drainage system for a kitchen sink. This design uses a bottle-type siphon (settler)

The last stage involves connecting the sink drainage system to the sewer system. To perform this operation, it is necessary to connect a standard sewer outlet, the diameter of which is usually 50 mm, with a sewer pipe, using a nut and a cone gasket.

Important! If the outlet or sewer pipe has dimensions that do not meet the accepted standard, then a ready-made plastic adapter is used to connect them.

The socket of the sewer pipe must be equipped with a special rubber cuff, with the help of which the smell coming from the sewer will be contained. Inner diameter The cuff must be smaller than the outer diameter of the outlet pipe. This will allow the cuff to tightly wrap around the pipe and prevent unpleasant odors from entering the room.

Features of installing a drain with overflow

The tools you will need are a Phillips and a large flat-head screwdriver, and the latter can be replaced with a regular coin. A jigsaw is required if it is necessary to cut out a seat of suitable diameter in the countertop for the sink. The manual supplied by the manufacturer to the equipment produced contains a list of all components and a diagram of their serial connection. To better understand the assembly order, you need to lay out all the parts on the floor or table.

Assembly diagram of a drain with overflow, taken from the manufacturer’s instructions for a sink installed in a special seat cut out in the countertop

After carefully studying the instructions, they begin to assemble the drain. A thick rubber gasket is placed on the base of the drain-outlet adjacent to the bottom of the sink. A thinner and softer gasket is placed under the bottom of the upper part of the outlet. Then, from the side of the sink itself, a gasket is placed in the drain hole. metal part release. The two parts are connected with a plastic hollow screw, which is tightened with a wide screwdriver or coin.

Important! Before tightening the screw, make sure that the overflow pipe aligns exactly with the overflow hole provided in the sink.

Assembling the overflow begins with adjusting the height of the tube, which depends on the depth of the sink being installed. In this case, the black part of the tube, equipped with clamps, is connected to the white part in a place selected in height. Assembled tube The overflow is attached to the sink, not forgetting about the rubber gasket located between the surfaces. Then a nut and a cone-shaped gasket are put on the white part of the overflow pipe. Connect the overflow pipe to the outlet by tightening the nut by hand. This is how you assemble the overflow for a sink with your own hands.

The overflow pipe is connected to the drain outlet using a nut, tightened by hand without the use of any tools, and a rubber gasket

Next, it remains to assemble the water seal, which is a sump, and the corrugation. A gasket is inserted into the groove and connected to the outlet pipe, tightening the nut by hand. The corrugation is screwed in the same way. After this, the sink is installed in the seat provided in the countertop, and the corrugation is connected to the sewer. At the final stage, a mesh plug is inserted into the drain hole.

Important! It is better to replace corrugated pipes with regular smooth-walled pipes, which are easier to clean if clogged.

You can connect the sink to the sewer yourself. If for some reason you cannot do this, contact a professional. To skilled craftsmen You don't even have to read the instructions because they know how to assemble a drain for any type of kitchen sink.