In an effort to save money, many people try to assemble furniture themselves. This also allows you to realize your plan without depending on anyone, and in addition, it increases self-esteem, like any mastery of a useful skill. Exist certain rules how corner cabinets are created.
Step-by-step instruction
Make furniture (same corner cupboard) is not that difficult, you just need to know a few key points and be able to use drawings.
Before you draw, you need to decide geometric shape future product:
- trapezium;
- letter G;
- triangle.
There is another option - with five walls.
If you decide to do it yourself, it means you need to think about all the dimensions, which wall, shelf or drawer will take how long.
Let's take the following values as an example: length and width are 90 cm, height is 250 cm. Using the assembly diagram, they calculate how much material will be needed and for what purpose.
Cannot be made homemade wardrobe without the following materials:
- self-tapping screws;
- glue;
- rollers;
- accessories;
- profile;
- mirrors (optional).
It is understandable to want to save money by working with your own hands rather than ordering a cabinet, but there are moments on which it is not advisable to save money. A big mistake is made by those who order bad videos or refuse steel profile due to its supposed high cost.
Be sure to prepare workplace, the corner cabinet can be assembled properly only in this case.
Tools needed:
- drill;
- building level;
- perforator;
- hand saw;
- hammer.
If you want to speed up the work and do it carefully, order cutting of boards in a professional workshop.
The size of the product should correspond to the area of the room where the future cabinet will be installed. Taken into account and basic principles. So, for outerwear there is no point in allocating a compartment already 80 centimeters and below 140 cm. This is where the diagram comes in handy; by drawing up and using it, you will not miss the dimensions, you will not find that there is not enough space inside for everything you need. The type of cabinet has very little effect on its assembly.
The first step is to attach the steel angles, which will hold the sides of the structure and will not allow it to deviate from the floor and ceiling. Finished parts are used to make a frame, rollers are attached to the door, guides are installed and the doors are worked on. On this last step They certainly control all actions by level in order to eliminate the slightest distortions.
Inner work no less important than the formation of the shell.
Here are the steps:
- install brackets;
- secure the shelves in their proper places;
- install the fittings (partitions first, then shelves and hangers, mirrors, and leave the handles for later).
Be sure to select fasteners in accordance with the base material (for brick and concrete, a dowel-nail, for wood - a nail or self-tapping screw, special dowels with spacers and a transverse notch must be screwed into aerated concrete). Vertical posts, inserted into the guides, should be secured with hangers. Stiffening ribs cannot be neglected; you should try to make them as large as possible - primarily in the places where a drawer or shelf will be placed. Replacing a metal profile with slats is permissible in exceptional cases, and the wood must be completely dry, otherwise shrinkage will deform the entire cabinet.
Without any special changes, this scheme is also used when assembling plasterboard cabinets, but there are still certain differences.
Starting point in in this case It is not the installation of the frame that is important, but the marking of the floor and ceiling in accordance with the diagram. It is most practical to mark with a rubber shock-absorbing tape, and only use it to attach metal profiles as accurately as possible. To make the cabinet structure last longer, be sure to use stiffening ribs by inserting them between the rack profiles.
If you don’t want to face a situation where something needs to be redone, perform the next step especially carefully. The blanks need to be placed at the points assigned to them and attached to the screws (screwing them in at a distance of 20 cm or so). Make sure that the caps go into the material by a millimeter, and install corners wherever you then attach the shelves.
Under no circumstances do it yourself or order doors for a homemade cabinet anywhere until the rest of the structure is assembled! Otherwise, you may find that the dimensions have changed somewhat, and you won’t be able to finish the job. After the doors comes the turn of the rods and (if any) lamps.
Then all that remains is to take care of decorating it (priming the internal and external surfaces, sealing the joints gypsum plaster, applying crescent tape, installing paint corners, filling, drying, sanding and re-putting, priming and finishing). What exactly to decorate - with tiles, other materials or simply paint - you need to decide on your own.
Design Features
Complaints about lack of space in an apartment or house are very common; Upon closer acquaintance with the home, it often turns out that certain corners are empty and there is no way to use them. Both problems can be solved at the same time if you make a corner cabinet - it is also much more economical than buying it in a store or ordering it from a furniture company.
Almost anyone can draw up a drawing, but professionals should cut out the parts in accordance with the idea, since this is too difficult and troublesome. The height of the section where fur coats, jackets and coats are to be stored should be flexibly adjusted to the height of those who will use the closet; everyone should be able to easily reach the crossbar. An important clarification: by placing the crossbar widthwise, you will achieve greater efficiency from the internal space.
A carefully thought-out diagram helps you finally get your bearings on the size; it’s better to pay attention to it than to take unnecessary risks.
It is advisable to draw up a diagram while being exactly where the cabinet will be installed - then do not lose sight of any details. Even the smallest components must be reflected in the drawing. Mark the location of roll-out drawers, doors and baskets; the thickness of the material is indicated precisely, and the specification of any element is given. Yes, it's quite difficult - but there's no other way to do the job well. The installation locations of the lamps (if provided) should be noted immediately, both when drawing up the plan and when starting the work itself.
Styles and placement options
In the bedrooms with traditional interior Furniture made of MDF or fiberboard, covered with film, plastic layer or veneer, looks ideal. With the help of a mirror cloth it is not only possible to expand the room, but also to correct some visual problems. Many designers like to use high-strength glass, which allows them to show their imagination and realize the most daring projects.
Country style helps you feel light and at ease, relieve the burden of ever-plaguing problems. It’s easy to follow - avoid flashy colors and designs; the less processed the wood looks, the more accurately it matches the style canon.
Regarding the installation location, the best solution Most experts consider the place where the walls touch each other. If desired, you can completely cover one of the walls and leave the other free from furniture.
One of the placement options is kitchen, where the cabinet for culinary needs is placed. The arrangement of cabinets in any room has its own characteristics, but even against this background the kitchen stands out. There is always not enough space, and therefore any way to at least slightly increase the efficiency of space use is beneficial. Please note that measuring surfaces and ordering blanks only makes sense when the floor, walls, and ceiling are level - otherwise the cabinet may not fit in the given location.
To correctly design a corner Kitchen Cabinet, you need to use only two types of connections (at a right angle it should be connected to the countertop, and at an angle of 45 degrees - to the sink). Unlike the direct option, additional inserts should be provided (they perform two functions at once - mechanical connection of drawers and replacement of part of the facade). A ledge is made at the top and bottom.
It is impossible to correctly calculate the structure and estimate the consumption of materials for it, unless you take into account that the upper and lower elements are located in the gap separating the side lobes, otherwise it will not be possible to design the facade properly. The tabletop must have an identical geometric shape.
Models
It is very important to draw good diagram, choose a decent material and tool, connect all the parts as expected. But even before this work, you should decide what exactly you want, because the closet is different from the closet.
There are three main options:
- the simplest (for a pantry or other utility room);
- a complete product (such as wardrobe or linen option);
- exquisite top-class furniture.
If you don’t have sufficient experience and confidence in success, you should only try the first type of corner cabinets - even if the result is not impressive, but practice and the errors will not immediately be exposed to everyone. Remember that you can save money only if there is already a prepared niche or a solid and very level floor, otherwise leveling it will require too much effort and money.
Do not try to either excessively reduce or increase the size of drawers and shelves - this will equally make them impractical and inconvenient to use. When creating a model, you need to take care not only that the facade is beautiful and the frame is strong. Very important point- the presence of mezzanines, thanks to them a certain amount of usable space is added. Wall cabinet It’s no more difficult to do than usual, you just have to be careful to avoid mistakes.
Dimensions
A cabinet that is about to stand up internal corner(except single) they begin to design and assemble from the corner section, and only after it comes the turn of the wings and the extension stand. Two sections 80x80 (one for outerwear) is the bare minimum, without which there is nothing to talk about at all.
Owners of small apartments are faced with the problem of lack of space. Although almost all corners in the rooms, kitchen and hallway remain empty.
But if you make a closet in the corner, you can “kill two birds with one stone” - decorate the interior and solve the problem of unnecessary things. Let's take a closer look at how to mount it.
DIY corner cabinet
Corner cabinets can be of several configurations:
- triangular;
- in the form of the letter “G”;
- in the form of a trapezoid;
- 5 wall.
Classic – 5 walls, fits perfectly between furniture. Now let's move on to the manufacturing process.
We start work with preparation:
- We draw up a diagram;
- We define required amount material;
- We prepare the material and tools.
Required material:
- Chipboard, MDF or boards;
- dowels;
- glue;
- self-tapping screws;
- mirror;
- furniture fittings;
- rollers - you need to choose high-quality ones, otherwise they will quickly fail;
- profile – preferably steel.
Installation Tool:
- perforator, drill;
- roulette;
- building level;
- hammer;
- hacksaw or electric jigsaw.
It is better to cut out the parts to order in a workshop or store, but if you are not afraid of difficulties, you can do it yourself.
Video: Corner wardrobe.
Choosing sizes
The size directly depends on the area of the room where it will be located. In this case, there are several recommendations that it is advisable to follow:
- the section for outerwear should not be less than 80 cm;
- minimum height for outerwear 1.4 m;
- the crossbar should be located at such a height that it can be easily reached; for this, the height of all family members must be taken into account.
Assembly
It is attached to the ceiling, walls and floor, in those places where the walls should be located. metal corner. To ensure that the doors do not warp, we check everything with a level. We assemble the frame from the blanks; if you take a responsible approach to cutting, the assembly will go without any problems. Rollers are attached to the door.
The guides are mounted and the door is installed. After this, you can attach the fittings and arrange inner space cabinet:
- partitions are installed;
- hangers, shelves, mirrors are fixed;
- screw the door handles.
That's all the corner cabinet is - comfortable and functional, ready to serve you faithfully.
Corner cabinet for the kitchen
The issue of lack of space in the kitchen comes first. To get a closet High Quality, it is advisable to perform assembly according to the following recommendations:
- It is better to order the cutting of parts from specialists, this will help to maintain the geometry;
- Before ordering, you need to make a drawing;
- It is necessary to take measurements after leveling the floor, ceiling and walls;
- use only high-quality fittings, it will cost more, but it's worth it.
IN design There can be two types of connections for a corner cabinet:
- at an angle of 90 degrees, you can install a regular tabletop under it;
- at an angle of 45 degrees, you can install a corner sink.
How does the design with a connection at an angle of 90 degrees differ from the standard one? A model with such a connection has the following design features How:
- additional inserts that pull the drawers together and act as a façade;
- ledge at the top and bottom.
Corner cabinet connected at an angle of 45 degrees. This design also has two features:
- Dimensions - if the bottom one is 60 cm wide, then the hinged one is 90 by 90 cm.
- Location of parts. IN standard design the side parts are located between the top and bottom, but here, on the contrary, the top and bottom are between the sides. And it will not be possible to install the façade any other way. Under such a corner cabinet, the countertop should be of the same shape.
From plasterboard
Installation of a corner cabinet made of plasterboard begins with a drawing:
- first you need to determine the place where it will be installed;
- then we make a diagram on which we plot the dimensions and dimensions of the parts, even the smallest ones;
- we determine the number of drawers, hanging baskets, doors and mark where they will be installed;
- We indicate the thickness of the drywall, without this it is not possible to make an accurate calculation.
Frame structure
We mark the future cabinet on the floor, walls and ceiling. If you plan to install lamps, we apply markings for their fastening. We attach rubber insulation to the guide profile on the side that will lie on the base. We fasten the guides along the marking lines using dowel nails.
We also attach the hangers according to the marked markings. Depending on the base, fasteners are selected. For example, to brick or concrete wall, secured with dowel nails, for wooden wall Nails or screws will do. The strength of the entire structure depends on the choice of fasteners.
Then they are inserted into the guides vertical racks and are fixed with hangers using self-tapping screws with a press washer. Now you can mount the stiffeners between the vertical posts. It is worth noting that the more such ribs there are, the more stable the structure will be.
The most reinforced areas should be the places where drawers and shelves are installed.
Metallic profile for the frame can be replaced with wooden slats, the main thing is that the wood is dry, raw wood will shrink and deformation will occur.
Sheathing the frame
You can cut plasterboard blanks with an electric jigsaw or hacksaw. Finish the edges with a special edge plane.
We arrange the elements in the places designated for them and secure them with self-tapping screws. Now you can finally secure the sheets, screw the screws every 20 cm. We recess the screw caps 1 mm into the sheet.
In places where there will be shelves, we attach furniture corners and lay shelves, which can be made from two sheets of plasterboard glued together. After this, we mount the rods and install the lamps.
And only after this you can take accurate measurements and order the doors. If the door is ordered earlier, the actual dimensions may not coincide with the original ones.
Finishing
After the structure is installed, it must be refined. To do this you need:
- seal all joints with putty;
- prime external and internal surfaces;
- stick sickle tape;
- install paint corners on the corners;
- putty, when the putty dries, sand, then putty again;
- prime again, and after the primer has dried, apply the finishing touch.
The final finishing is done to your taste, it can be painting, finishing with mirrors, in the bathroom it can be tiled.
Watch the video: How to assemble a wardrobe with your own hands. Installation video instructions.
Corner wardrobes are extremely ergonomic: due to their beveled shape, they do not appear bulky and, at the same time, are extremely spacious. Let's look at examples of how to make a corner cabinet with your own hands - what models can be implemented, what the typical dimensions and contents may be, and how to calculate the details using the example of ready-made drawings and diagrams.
Designs, drawings and photos of corner cabinets
Conventionally, corner cabinets can be divided into two categories: beveled trapezoidal and strictly rectangular shape, with diagonally and perpendicularly located facades. In both cases, the cabinet can be:
- Symmetrical and asymmetrical.
- With separate mezzanines and without mezzanines.
- Combined filling and allocated exclusively for shelves or hangers.
- With internal or external drawers.
- WITH different numbers facades (one-door, two-door, three-door).
- In the form of display cases, open shelving and designed for storing clothes.
We will only consider do-it-yourself wardrobe (dressing) corner wardrobe plans. 
Corner cabinets with perpendicular doors, most often, represent an attached composition of two ordinary cabinets of a slightly modified design. In rare cases, there may be cast structures, especially if the front part is sliding, like an accordion.
The advantage of corner cabinets trapezoidal shape is large capacity and functionality. For example, the width of the outer sides can be reduced to a minimum and this will not interfere with placing hangers with bulky clothes - after all, the inner part expands towards the center.
Do-it-yourself corner cabinet: deciding on the dimensions
Before wondering how to make a corner cabinet with your own hands, you need to decide overall dimensions. Ergonomic shapes attract many, but it is not always possible to achieve what you want if the allotted space for placement is too small.
The smallest dimensions of a corner cabinet with your own hands can be compared to the typical dimensions of a kitchen wall unit. It occupies 600x600mm from the corner. In order for the facade to be of sufficient width (400 mm minimum), the depth of the pillars (sidewalls) is set to no more than 300 mm. Naturally, with such dimensions there is no question of placing the barbell under the hangers. Only shelves or hooks for clothes.
For a corner wardrobe with a compartment for hanging clothes, the distance from the corner, at least on one side, must be at least 800 mm. Then the depth of the stand can be set at 450mm, which is quite enough for hangers with light clothes (for “men’s” and outerwear, 500mm is required). Do-it-yourself corner cabinet diagrams are approximately the same, in the ratio of the depth of the stand and the remaining space for the facade. 
With asymmetrical options, it is quite possible to implement your plan with dimensions ranging from an angle of 850x650mm, 800x700mm, etc.
How to make a corner cabinet with your own hands using the example of a drawing
Let's consider a typical symmetrical model, with overall dimensions 2100x900x900mm. A do-it-yourself drawing of a corner cabinet will look like this. 
Along one of the sides, the width of the body allows for the placement of shelves; they must be made taking into account the required space for hanging the rod - from 500mm minimum. Drawers can be built into the section with shelves. The only nuance that should be taken into account in the future is the placement of hinges on the facade. The loop should not “get” into either the drawer or the shelf!
The height of the cabinet allows for the placement of two rods under clothes. A distance of 900-1100 mm is sufficient for short jackets, shirts, and the hem long dresses you can simply “throw” it over the lower rod. Or you can make a shelf at the top or bottom, for hats or shoes.
How to calculate the details of a corner cabinet with your own hands
After you have decided on the dimensions of the corner cabinet with your own hands, internal filling, you can start calculating the details. The simplest option is in the form of a table in the Excel office program. 
- We write down all the details in strict accordance with the texture of the drawing, first the length, then the width. If you enter the formula into a tabular form for calculating the square footage of each part, you can sum it up and roughly estimate how much volume the cabinet will “flow into.”
- At the same time we denote visible sides, which will need to be rolled up with an edge in units. Formulas will also help you pre-calculate the footage of the end tape.
- I recommend highlighting the details irregular shape so as not to lose sight of them (for example, as in the table below - yellow). And also clearly show along which side they will be rolled with an edge.
- You can see how to calculate the size of the fronts for a corner cabinet. Strictly speaking, the facade part can be made of another material - for example, MDF or solid wood.
- A similar method is considered to be detailing fiberboard.
DIY corner cabinet cutting cards
The calculated dimensions of parts from Excel are transferred to a special cutting program. Parts for which the direction of the pattern is unimportant (for example, stiffeners, plinths, internal shelves) can be rotated to minimize waste. In our case, there is a reason to make the front part from a different material - the body of the corner cabinet with your own hands economically “lays” on two sheets. 
The cutting can be ordered from a third party along with PVC seaming. Typically, such services are provided by all companies selling chipboards. At home PVC conditions rolling it up is quite labor-intensive and it’s unlikely to work neatly. You will have to be content with melamine tape, the only advantage of which is its low cost. The table shows that you will need 28.83 linear meters. But it’s better to take it with a reserve, + 10-15%.
How to mark cabinet parts for drilling
If you correctly mark and drill all the parts on the corner cabinet with your own hands, then in the end it will be assembled very simply, like a construction set. It is most convenient to do this in special furniture programs, for example, Basis Furniture Maker.
The principles are simple:
- Furniture is assembled using Euroscrews (confirmats).
- The parts are drilled into the end and with front side.
- The distance from the edge of the front side part should be the same. For example, 50 mm. Or in the center.
After the fasteners are placed, we number the parts. If there are details same size, but with a different fastening principle, we use additional markings (a, b, etc.). 
In Basis Furniture Maker you can get specifications for drilling in this form. 
But here you need to be careful, clearly understand where the “face” of the corner cabinet part is, and where the “wrong side” is, along the edge-rolled sides. The program does not see this nuance; it places the fasteners from left to right. And during the drilling process, you may come across parts that need to be mirrored. In principle, it is not difficult. Anyway, with the drilling specifications, the whole process will go much faster.
How much will it cost to make a corner cabinet with your own hands?
By correctly drawing up the drawings of a corner cabinet with your own hands, all the design stages, the risks of errors that lead to inevitable additional expenses are reduced to zero. If you make any furniture with your own hands, it always costs less. Actually, nothing prevents you from predicting costs before starting all work. Find out all the prices for materials, fittings and hardware in your city that will be required when making a cabinet with your own hands, and enter it into a simple excel sheet. 
The most significant costs will be for the purchase of chipboard and cutting. We took a standard model - changes up or down by 100-200mm will not change the material consumption significantly. It will also take approximately 2-3 sheets depending on the number of shelves and fronts (whether they will be ordered separately or not).
A drawing of a corner cabinet will help you assemble it yourself.
If the room area is small, then each cabinet takes up a lot of space. There is a way out of this situation: instead of several bulky cabinets, you need to install one corner cabinet.
It is very roomy and takes up little space. You can learn how to make a corner cabinet with your own hands from this article.
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Classmates
Types of corner cabinets
- trapezoidal;
- in the form of the letter “G”;
- triangular;
- 5-wall.
Each option is interesting in its own way; when choosing, you need to take into account the place where it will be located. Before work, be sure to make a sketch or drawing of the planned cabinet and make detailed drawings.
When performing calculations, it is necessary to carefully measure the dimensions of all walls and shelves. How to make a standard one small closet with dimensions 900 by 900 mm, height from floor to ceiling 2,500 mm, will be discussed in more detail below. Calculations of materials and a detailed assembly diagram will be presented.
Manufacturing process
Any construction work begins with the preparatory stage.
- A diagram of a corner cabinet is being drawn up.
- It is necessary to calculate how much and what material will be needed for the work. To make the calculation more accurate, an assembly diagram is also first drawn up.
- Prepare necessary tools and materials.
- self-tapping screws;
- glue;
- dowels;
- mirrors;
- accessories;
- rollers, there is no need to save money here, it is better to take high-quality ones so that they last a long time;
- profile, preference is given to steel.
Immediately check the set of tools so that there is no downtime in work later. You will need:
- level;
- roulette;
- hacksaw;
- hammer.
In order for the work to be done more accurately and quickly, it is better to entrust the cutting of the boards to the craftsmen and do this work in the workshop. You can do the assembly yourself.
Specification of sizes
- The width of the compartment where outerwear is stored cannot be less than 0.8 m.
- The height of the compartment for storing outerwear cannot be less than 1.4 m.
Pre-planned diagrams will help you avoid making mistakes in sizes.
Assembly
- first, steel corners are mounted where later it will be necessary to attach the side walls to the floor and ceiling;
- from finished parts assemble the frame;
- attach rollers to the door;
- install guides;
- install doors.
Good to know: When assembling a corner cabinet, it is imperative to use a level, otherwise distortions at the doors may occur.
When the main work is done, you need to assemble the cabinet inside. Install the brackets and arrange all the shelves in their places. After this, all that remains is to install the fittings.
The work is carried out in the following sequence:
- install partitions;
- secure shelves, hangers, mirrors;
- screw the handles.
Using the same scheme, you can assemble your own cabinet from plasterboard. The operating principle will be slightly different.
Corner cabinet made of plasterboard
To manufacture, you will first need to carefully work on the drawings. The quality and speed of work will depend on how they are made. The drawings are made as follows:
- We need to decide on the location of the future cabinet.
- Make a sketch, sketch detailed diagram, indicate the dimensions of all shelves, brackets, and parts there.
- All calculations should be carried out indicating the thickness of the material.
Note: When making a drawing, it is necessary to take into account every detail, the slightest inconsistency, and there will be difficulties during assembly.
Assembling a cabinet begins with installing the frame. First, markings are made on the floor and ceiling. For convenience, you should use a rubber shock-absorbing tape.
Sheathing
- Pre-cut blanks are placed in the designated places and screwed with self-tapping screws.
- The sheets are finally attached; the screws are placed at a distance of about 200 mm. The caps of hardware should be recessed by 1 mm.
- In the places where the shelves will be attached, you need to install corners. Next, the shelves themselves are laid on them.
Take note: There is no need to order cabinet doors in advance; it often happens that after installation work, sizes vary slightly.
Now all that remains is to mount the lamps and rods. When the main frame is ready, you need to measure everything again and order the doors.
Finishing
- prime the surface both inside and outside;
- carefully seal all joints with gypsum plaster;
- stick the crescent tape;
- install paint corners at all corners;
- apply thin layer putty, dry, sand and putty again;
- prime everything again, and after complete drying, finish it. This could be painting or finishing with tiles or other materials. Here the owner chooses at his discretion.
The entire closet is ready and will delight all household members for a long time.
How to make a corner cabinet with your own hands, see the following video:
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Instead of struggling with the selection of furniture in small apartment, better learn how to make a corner wardrobe with your own hands. After all, no matter how little space there is, the corners in the hallway, kitchen, and rooms remain empty. A hand-made cabinet will not only solve the problem of placing things, it will elegantly decorate the interior.
Design
There is no exemplary standard design that a corner wardrobe must comply with. It can be built-in (when you only need to install doors) or framed, have different sizes, different quantities sides (triangular, trapezoidal, L- or U-shaped).
IN last years The radius sliding wardrobe has become popular, which is a furniture structure devoid of sharp corners. Beauty lovers will undoubtedly appreciate the doors curved shape, sliding along the corresponding profiles. This layout allows you to save space and elegantly solve the storage problem. large quantity of things.
In Fig.2. angular are diagram No. 1 (concave), No. 2 (convex), No. 5 (convex column of a massive furniture structure or a free-standing small wardrobe). All other options for radius sliding wardrobes can be obtained by combining the 6 initial types listed above.
Radius is beautiful and functional
Door movement radius cabinet It runs smoothly and almost silently. Similar characteristics are provided by the profile included in the sliding mechanism. Manufacturers offer it in steel or aluminum. We recommend choosing the second option for the following reasons:
- increased resistance to damage;
- minimizing noise when the door slides.
Price aluminum profile higher than steel. However, over the course of long-term use, you will appreciate your choice.
The wall thickness must be at least 0.12 cm. A thicker profile increases the reliability of fastening. High-quality components are produced by Komandor, Absolut, Raumplus, Aristo, and others. If the height of the radius cabinet is above 3 m, we recommend taking the Raumplus profile.
Doors radius wardrobe can be with a top sliding system or a bottom one. In the first case, the doors hang on rollers. Movement is carried out along the upper guide. The initial impression of the suspension system is excellent. However, the large load on the upper horizon causes its gradual sagging. Hanging system wears out quickly, without regular Maintenance can suddenly lock the door at the most inopportune moment.
The second sliding system looks preferable for daily household use. The sash slides along the bottom guide, the door is attached and fixed along the top. Load distribution evenly, assembled structure will last longer.
Door elements
Assembling corner wardrobes with your own hands without a diagram reflecting exact dimensions, is impossible. Particular attention must be paid to the moving part of the structure - the doors. You cannot miss anything or take the wrong size; in such a case, the doors will not be able to be used normally.
Before assembling your closet, let's take a closer look at the elements of doors with a bottom sliding system:
- Vertical side profiles can be symmetrical or asymmetrical. During operation they are used as handles. Symmetrical profiles look the same on both sides, asymmetrical ones create a difference between the outer and external parties.
- The asymmetrical rollers located at the top are designed to fix the sashes in the opening.
- The upper door frame is necessary for attaching wheels to it, as well as for subsequent fixation of the structure.
- The lower door frame is used to install the lower wheels and ensure proper sliding of the doors.
- Internal door filler (wood, glass, mirror) performs decorative function, gives the entire interior a touch of individuality.
- The seal attached to the vertical side profiles, in addition to softening the impact of the door on the cabinet wall, protects the moving structure from dust.
- The door plug is used to secure the side vertical profiles.
- The assembly and adjustment screws allow you to change the sliding speed of the sashes.
- The stopper makes it possible to fix the door and avoid unintended opening of the doors.
Calculation of cabinet capacity
Any step-by-step instruction gives confidence in the work started, but without preliminary assessment capacity, the result will be disappointing. Before drawing drawings and studying the assembly manual, decide what you will put on the shelves or hang. Then it will be difficult to move the functional sections; a beautiful-looking cabinet can become a source of bad mood.
- to arrange things according to the season, provide at least 2 sections for outerwear;
- when installing recessed lamps, the upper horizon of the cabinet is moved forward by 12-17 cm;
- not only convenient, but also functional when the depth of the shelves is at least 60 cm;
- shelf widths of more than 65 cm increase the risk of them sagging;
- the intershelf distance should be no more than 35 cm;
- accept a door width of 50 cm; smaller sizes may cause the guides to fall out;
- the number of functional compartments should be proportional to the number of sashes;
- designing dimensions drawers, please note Special attention on the location of the door frames, too wide it will be impossible to reach;
- doors must be the same width;
- from chipboard thickness depends appearance and cabinet strength;
- The material for the roof, side walls, and doors will be chipboard; the back wall can be made of fiberboard 3 mm thick.
The most practical option is the production of a built-in radius wardrobe. This design will easily blend with the walls, hide possible defects, and require less material consumption and time. Housewives will appreciate the absence of gaps between the wall and the cabinet, where dust constantly accumulates
Assembling the closet
To install the designed cabinet you will definitely need:
- screwdriver;
- hammer;
- square;
- drill;
- pencil.
Before you begin assembling the structure, also make sure you have:
- drawings;
- furniture board in 18 mm;
- doors and guides;
- “insides” of the cabinet (drawers, hangers, handles);
- door fittings, screws, dowels;
- side, bottom and top false panels.
Step by step order builds:
- Taking measurements and drawing “on the ground” where the cabinet will be installed (you will need a pencil and a level). Vertical posts are marked on the wall, profiles are marked on the floor and ceiling.
- Determining the location for the shelves, drilling holes for the dowels, hammering them in with a hammer.
- Fastening profiles for shelves to the wall, installing their lower holders.
- Marking the mezzanine shelf and fastening it with self-tapping screws.
- Adjusting the side wall to size and installing it.
- Installation of internal “filling” (shelves, drawers, etc.).
- Installation of pre-prepared false panels, attaching them to the floor, ceiling, side wall with a screwdriver.
- Cutting and bending the upper and lower profiles (don’t forget to insert 1 stopper per door), attaching them with screws to the false panel.
- Installation assembled door. The description of the actions is as follows:
- decorating with self-adhesive film (if necessary),
- installation of vertical profiles with screws,
- installation door seal,
- securing the upper and lower door frames,
- attaching the bottom and top of the rollers,
- inserting the top guide, then the bottom,
- checking the correct sliding, adjusting it (if required) with a hexagon.