Sometimes during repairs, change old bath, there is no possibility and then restoring its surface is a convenient and practical solution. Our article will tell you what it takes to restore bathtubs with your own hands.
A bathtub is an important and key, but cumbersome piece of equipment in bathrooms. Cast iron bathtubs look solid and are very easy to use, but their enamel surface cannot last as long as permanent cast iron. The coating of more capricious steel and acrylic containers also needs to be restored. However, sometimes replacement or purchase new bath seems too expensive an undertaking, then restoration of the bathtub can become part of repair work.
One of the popular methods at the moment is painting and an acrylic liner in the bathtub, the essence of which is to apply a new layer to the existing layer of enamel of the bathtub: in the form of painting (pouring) with acrylic paint or putting a finished acrylic layer inside the bathtub.
Bathtub restoration before and after
Features of acrylic coating and care for it
The technologies are different, while the result - a self-leveling acrylic bathtub - is the same: a bathtub with a coating that has the following physical properties, How
- wear resistance (up to 15-20 years),
- low thermal conductivity (which means more comfortable maintenance of water temperature),
- spectacular and dazzling smoothness of the surface, pleasant to the eye and skin, and associated with it, ease of care.
Features of caring for an acrylic bathtub
However, it is important! A ready-to-fill bathtub requires more attention: the acrylic coating will not withstand strong directed impacts and aggressive influences chemical substances.
Acrylic fears:
- heavy objects falling onto the surface
- blows with sharp objects
- base deformation
- abrasive cleaning powders
- aggressive chemical compounds
- colored or dyed detergents (e.g. sea salts for Bath)
However, care is also simple: to remove dirt from the filling bathtub, it is enough to use a soft fabric texture with any light gel-like or creamy detergent.
Another important advantage of acrylic is its rich color palette, which can be selected from a variety of colors to their finest shades, because color is obtained by adding color to liquid enamel. Liquid acrylic for old bathtubs can provide not only new surface, but also new color, which is convenient when renovating an entire bathroom.
Restoring bathtubs with liquid acrylic: the “fill-in bath” method
About liquid acrylic for baths
Liquid acrylic is an enamel that is resistant to small particles. mechanical damage, such as cracks and scratches, temperature changes and rust formation. But acrylic usually does not withstand exposure to many chemicals well and is absolutely defenseless against abrasive substances.
Acrylic paint is convenient not only for acrylic bathtub, it is also widely used for re-coating cast iron and steel bathtubs. There are many varieties acrylic paint for a bath, and the choice must be made very carefully. There are colors which require an impressive amount of time to harden: from 2 to 4 days, while modern manufacturers offer options that will allow you to use the bathroom after 36 hours. But is time always the key?
When choosing a material, you should also pay attention to…
- miscibility of two-component compositions: if it turns out to be poor, then it will not be easy to achieve a uniform consistency,
- plasticity and fluidity of the material, formation of bubbles: the spreading mass should lie in an even and perfectly smooth layer,
- shade of the mass and possible coating color (dark, yellowish, grayish),
chemical fumes and odor during operation, - final result based on consumer reviews: there are opinions on the Internet that for some coatings the impact of even a falling bottle of shower gel can be dangerous.
The main thing, of course, is the end result: a high-quality poured bathtub is a smooth coating without cracks or reliefs, where all surface irregularities are filled with a substance and create ideal smoothness.
Surface preparation
Tool for "Fill bath"
Restoration of bathtubs with liquid acrylic begins with an important preparatory stage, on which the quality of work largely depends. To simplify the process, you can purchase a repair kit for acrylic bathtubs, which includes the materials necessary for the preparatory stage: sandpaper, resin, cloth for wiping and polishing.
Step 1. Completely free the edges of the bathtub and its sides along the entire perimeter: to do this, sometimes you even have to remove the slopes of the ceramic tiles.
Important! It is better to carry out work on covering the bathtub with liquid acrylic before starting work on the walls.
Important! The filling bath cannot be made during construction work in no case: any debris and dust are dangerous for drying acrylic.
Step 2. Clean the surface of the bathtub, trying to remove all the unevenness of the previous coating and make the surface as rough as possible - this will create the necessary adhesion new enamel And old surface. To do this, you can use sandpaper and abrasives or a drill with an abrasive wheel.
Advice: Compliance with safety precautions is mandatory: for this dusty work, a respirator and safety glasses are a must.
Step 3. Wash off any dust and any particles formed during the sanding stage.
Step 4. Degrease the surface with a solvent or ordinary baking soda slurry.
Important! Degreasing with acetone is prohibited.
Step 5. Rinse the bath well warm water, trying to completely clean it of chemical residues.
Step 6. Treat large chips and deep cracks with quick-drying auto putty or special resin For acrylic surfaces, small ones - do not need special attention: acrylic, like smart enamel, will fill them in on its own.
Step 7: Fill the Bathtub hot water and leave for 10-15 minutes: for an even coating and good adhesion, the surface should be warm.
Step 8. Drain the water. Wipe the surface dry with a clean cloth that does not leave lint or other small particles on the rough surface.
Step 9. Remove the upper and lower drain of the siphon, placing a container in the lower hole for the remaining acrylic that drains.
Painting a bathtub with acrylic
Acrylic paint is used equally for cast iron, steel or acrylic bathtubs.
Step 1. Thoroughly mix the 2 components to prepare liquid acrylic until smooth, carefully following the instructions: each manufacturer has its own technology for preparing the solution.
Step 2. Pour part of the mixture into a smaller container for more convenient pouring of paint onto the surface of the bath.
Filling bath process technology
Step 3. Start pouring acrylic in a thin stream onto the sides of the bathtub so that the layer of paint is thick, about 4-5 cm and flows down to half the walls of the bathtub (conditionally divide the height of the bathtub walls in half). The stream should be as continuous as possible and cover the entire bath in a ring.
Tip: There is no need to correct uneven or uneven streams of flowing substance: the acrylic will gradually spread over the surface without any extraneous effort.
Step 4. Immediately begin pouring the second layer of acrylic - starting from the second half of the walls of the bathtub. It is not necessary to wait for the acrylic to flow down to this conditional line. The pouring scheme is the same: without correcting or adjusting anything, leaving a thick layer of 4-5 mm, acting continuously and closing the circle.
Tip: Painting a bathtub with liquid acrylic will be of better quality if all actions are carried out quickly and efficiently.
Step 5. Carefully spread the liquid accumulated at the bottom of the bath with a spatula over the bottom of the bath, forcing the excess to drain into the drain hole.
A freshly poured bathtub should remain absolutely untouchable for 2-3 days: water, dust, and particles of debris can leave marks on it that will be impossible to correct.
Restoring a bathtub using an acrylic insert
Acrylic insert for the bathroom is plastic covering, having the shape of a bathtub, inserted into a container and secured in it. It has all the advantages and disadvantages of acrylic: pleasant to the touch smooth surface, resistant to cracks and dirt, but requiring special care and attention.
Acrylic insert
This is another one alternative method restoration of both acrylic and steel and cast iron bathtubs. Its advantage is ease of installation, with which can be handled by any owner who Can handle jigsaw, sealant and foam.
The acrylic insert is selected for the bath exactly according to its dimensions, without taking into account the sides: length - from edge to edge, width at the narrowest and widest places, depth - from the drain hole to the beginning of the sides. The color of acrylic inserts may vary.
Surface preparation
Preparing the surface for installing an acrylic insert in a bathtub is similar to preparing the surface for a pour-in bathtub, but has several important nuances:
Step 1. Free the edges of the bathtub from the tiles or its slopes.
Important! If, when making a self-leveling bathtub, the slopes and sides can be left, carefully working with paint, then when installing the inlay, significant dismantling of the bathroom wall is simply necessary: the edges of the bathtub - required element to install the liner.
Step 2. Clean the surface using sandpaper and a drill with an abrasive wheel, again achieving a rough surface - for better adhesion of the liner and the old enamel.
Step 3. Thoroughly rinse the surface to remove any particles of debris and dust.
Step 4. Remove both the upper overflow and the lower drain of the siphon.
Acrylic bath insert: Installation
Step 1. Place the insert in the bathtub container and, starting from the sides, measure the location of the edges and cut off the excess material with a jigsaw.
Step 2. Determine location drain holes on the side and bottom of the bathtub. Cut holes with a diameter of 54 mm from the inside of the liner.
Installation of acrylic insert
Important! Fitting is an important stage of installation, precisely because incorrect calculation of future holes or edges will affect the fastening and sealing of the structure.
Step 3: Apply sealant around the perimeter and around the drain holes.
Step 4: Apply polyurethane foam on the sides of the bathtub, starting from the bottom of the bathtub, the distance between the application lines is 15 cm. Then at the bottom of the bathtub, apply a dense layer along its length.
Important! The foam hardens quickly, so you need to act quickly.
Step 5. Immediately install the tab and secure the strapping.
Step 6: Fill the bathtub cold water up to half or a little more. Leave for 24 hours.
Tip: The liner will function reliably and for a long time if in the first 10 days you use only the shower, without filling the bathtub with water, without putting stress on the sides and sides.
Both the acrylic insert and the self-filling bathtub are convenient way to extend the life of the bathtub, but which method is more reliable and convenient will be determined by the specific situation and the bathtub container itself.
Liquid acrylic – modern material, with which you can carry out high-quality restoration of the bathtub with your own hands. Consists of a base that has enough high density, and hardener. Can be used for the restoration of steel, cast iron and acrylic bathtubs.
Materials and tools
To restore the bathtub you will need a filler liquid acrylic, means for cleaning plumbing and degreasing, soda. Please note that liquid acrylic is sold in containers designed for bathtub sizes - 1.2, 1.5 or 1.7 m.
You need to prepare a tool for work:
- grinder;
- drill;
- whisk attachment;
- pliers;
- sandpaper different grain sizes;
- rubber spatula;
- respirator;
- vacuum cleaner;
- sponge;
- gloves;
- flashlight.
When using a drill to sand the surface of the bathtub, you will need a special attachment.
Note: construction hair dryer and a stationery knife will be useful for removing non-factory enamel if the bathtub has already been restored.
You also need polyethylene to protect the floor and walls (you can use rags or newspapers).
Preparing the bath
The quality of preparation will depend appearance and service life of the applied coating. First, the overflow and drain are removed. Using a grinder or a drill with a grinding attachment, you need to carefully treat the surface of the bathtub. For this purpose, sandpaper for rough work 40-N or 32-N is used (according to GOST 3647-80). Emery will also help remove any water deposits that have formed. The surface after sanding should be rough to ensure good adhesion of liquid acrylic.
Note: non-factory enamel previously applied to restore the bathtub is removed stationery knife after heating with a hairdryer.
The bathtub needs to be cleaned and any remaining debris removed. Then the surface is treated with a plumbing cleaner - the poured product must be spread with a sponge over the entire surface of the bathtub, including the installation location of the removed overflow.
The bath is washed again and left to dry. After drying, proceed to the next important stage works - degreasing. Soda is poured into the bath and thoroughly rubbed over the entire surface with coarse sandpaper.
Perhaps degreasing will need to be done not once, but two or three times. You must work with gloves. Then the bath is thoroughly washed with a stream of water from the shower.
Before the beginning next stage you need to remove the siphon.
The installation site of the siphon must be cleaned, degreased and rinsed from soda residues.
The mixer and shower are covered with a bag and secured with tape - water should not get on the applied layer of liquid acrylic until it dries completely. The tiles and shelves above the bathtub are cleaned of dust particles with a cloth. Do not allow sanding dust to get on the acrylic.
After completing this stage, the bath should be thoroughly dried with a hairdryer. Special attention pay attention to places where water can collect: the joints of the tiles and the bathtub, under the side, which is installed at the junction of the tiles and the bathtub. It is better to remove the rim and carry out the restoration of the bathtub without it. The cement joints at the junction with the bathroom can be dried well with a hairdryer.
To eliminate defects in factory enamel (cracks, chips), use quick-drying automotive putty.
The composition is stirred and rubber spatula Apply to damaged areas and then allow to dry.
While the putty dries, cover the floor under the bathtub and the tiles at the joints with polyethylene or newspapers, which are secured with tape.
So, when pouring liquid acrylic, it will not spoil the flooring and wall tiles.
After the putty has dried, these places are covered with fine sandpaper. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove dust particles from the bathtub.
Use a degreasing agent (acetone) to wipe the areas where cracks and chips have been putty. You should also wipe the installation areas of the overflow and siphon with acetone. Place a container under the drain hole (you can use a cut plastic bottle). Excess liquid acrylic will drain into this container.
Coating
After finishing preparatory work start preparing liquid acrylic. The hardener is added to the material in parts and thoroughly mixed using a drill with a whisk attachment.
It is necessary to achieve complete mixing of the two components, not forgetting about the material in the corners and at the bottom of the jar with liquid acrylic. Otherwise, the layer of applied acrylic will dry unevenly. You need to stir the mixture for 10 minutes.
Important! Don't forget about the pot life ready mixture which is indicated on the packaging. During this time, you need to completely complete the work.
Before pouring the composition is allowed to stand for 5-10 minutes. To work you will need plastic container, into which acrylic is poured. You can use a trimmed and well-wiped hardener bottle. The work is performed wearing medical gloves.
Note: adding coloring paste will allow you to obtain the desired color of the composition. Color paste by weight should not exceed 3% of the total mass of the composition.
The composition is poured around the perimeter of the bath from top to bottom.
Going lower, help yourself with a rubber spatula, which is used to rub the acrylic into the surface of the bathtub. Having achieved full coverage liquid acrylic, use a spatula to make zigzag movements along the bottom of the bath. Then the composition is leveled with even movements from the wall towards the drain.
The bath is left for 5 minutes. Turn off the light and use a flashlight to check the surface of the bath for defects or irregularities (smudges) that need to be leveled with a spatula.
Important! Air bubbles may have formed when mixing the composition. To remove these bubbles, the surface of the bath is quickly blown with a hairdryer at low speeds.
After 10 minutes, use a flashlight to check the surface again. The bathtub can be used 24-48 hours after complete drying. Until this point, the bathroom must be closed. The drying time of the composition depends on technical characteristics material and temperature regime in room.
Note: Some modern liquid acrylics take 12-16 hours to dry.
The result of the work
As a result of the work done, you will receive a completely restored bathtub with a beautiful appearance, which is guaranteed to last at least 10 years. After each use, the bathtub should be washed with special acrylic care products, dishwashing detergents or liquid soap.
Advantages and disadvantages
Advantages of bathtub restoration with liquid acrylic:- long service life;
- beautiful appearance;
- smooth surface;
- excellent performance characteristics, primarily mechanical strength;
- possibility of repeated restoration in the future.
The disadvantages of this technology include:
- the long time required for the surface to dry completely;
- a specific smell when applying and drying liquid acrylic;
- the need to purchase bath care products.
Tricks at work
A high-quality bathtub surface will be obtained by applying the composition in an even, thick layer. Acrylic should flow down on its own. Determine by eye the middle of the side slopes and pour a second portion of the composition onto them. The remaining material is poured to the bottom. This way the entire surface of the bath will be covered with a thick layer of acrylic.Cast iron bathtubs seem “eternal” to many. In a sense, this is indeed true. These products are durable, do not corrode and can be used for decades. The only “weak link” is the enamel, which, even with proper care, becomes thinner over time.
Thrifty owners, realizing that only the appearance has deteriorated, are looking for ways to update the old cast iron bath. Let's look at a few of them.
We usually send our used products to a landfill without regret. However, a cast-iron bathtub that has lost its attractive appearance may well continue to be used. But replacing it may seem irrational.
The large weight of the equipment makes it very difficult to dismantle and remove it from the apartment, especially if it is located above the first floor. In addition, if tiles were laid around the bathtub or made, all this will have to be disassembled.
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Cold enamel bath
Another way to restore a cast iron bathtub is cold enameling. This is a fairly simple process that involves applying a special composition to the bowl, which, after hardening, turns into an enamel coating.
The main advantage of the method is its low cost compared to other restoration methods. In addition, the bowl can be coated with such enamel an unlimited number of times.
The disadvantages include long drying of the composition. It will take about 4 days for it to dry completely. In addition, cold-applied enamel is less durable than that used to coat bowls in the factory.
Its service life is a maximum of five years, after which the restoration procedure will have to be repeated. Compared to acrylic, this enamel retains heat less well, so the water in the bath will cool faster.
You can add a tinting paste to the bath coating composition, so the enamel will acquire the desired shade
How to choose the right enamel?
The properties and durability of the future enamel coating directly depend on the quality of the composition.
- Method of applying enamel. On sale you can find solutions intended for application by roller, brush or spray. The latter option is especially good because it involves even application.
- Hardener shade. The composition for cold enameling is a two, or less often three, component product. One of the components is a hardener. If it is dark yellow, brown or dark red, an undesirable tint may appear on the finished coating.
- Enamel tone. If desired, the enamel composition can be painted in any color. Special tinting pastes are designed for this, which can be sold complete with enamel or separately. Experts advise choosing the shade of the coating directly in the room where the equipment is installed.
- Restoration kit contents. The fuller it is, the better. Tinting pastes and special means to prepare the bathtub for restoration.
Practice shows that fairly thick two-component compositions, such as Epoxin 51C and Epoxin 51, are best suited for application by roller or brush. They fill small defects in the base quite well.
The Finnish composition Reaflex 50 or Rust-Oleum Specialty is well suited for working with a spray bottle. Whitest NEWTON spray has proven itself quite well. Detailed review read about bath restorers.
Before painting a cast iron bathtub, it is necessary to remove the top glossy layer enamel coating. This can be done using a grinder
Preparing the bowl for enameling
You should start by removing the top glossy layer of enamel. To do this, the surface will have to be carefully treated with abrasive to remove about 30-50 microns of gloss. For work, you can take sandpaper, abrasive powders or a grinder with a grinding wheel. You can get results especially quickly using petal circle in combination with abrasive paste. The latter can be prepared independently.
To do this, you need to take grated laundry soap and mix it with abrasive powder for sandblasting in a ratio of 1:3. Those who know how to restore cast iron baths, craftsmen recommend using ground nickel slag, fraction no higher than 0.16-0.18 mm.
The components are mixed well and filled with water. The paste is aged for about a day. The result is a viscous mass that resembles quite hard plasticine.
The entire bowl is treated with it and immediately passed in a petal circle. This is done one or two more times until the base becomes rough and matte. Important note: the enamel should not be completely removed. If the surface begins to noticeably darken, treatment is stopped.
After this, the bowl should be thoroughly washed, the overflow and siphon should be removed, untreated areas should be cleaned and the siphon should be temporarily put in place.
You can prepare your own abrasive paste for working with a grinder
The next step is to degrease the surface, but it is better to carry out chemical etching. It makes the coating structure porous, eliminating deep limestone deposits and rust stains. As a result, the new coating adheres much better and its service life is significantly extended.
If there are stubborn stains on the surface rust spots, you should start by removing them. They are lubricated with special rust solvents, such as Tsinkar or FAS.
Once the reaction is complete, the stain will blur and turn pale. At this point it needs to be washed off with water. It is important to do this before the solution dries, otherwise the rust will remain in the pores of the coating. Etching is carried out in three steps.
First, a 3.5% solution is applied to the surface of hydrochloric acid. This operation is performed several times at intervals of 6-7 minutes. After which the composition is thoroughly washed off and bleach is applied, diluted with water to a paste.
The solution is left on the base for 20 minutes, after which it is washed off. When working with acid and lime, you should wear a respirator; their vapors are poisonous. The surface of the bowl is dried with a hairdryer. After this, degreasing should be carried out to remove all remaining reagents and organic matter. To do this, a lint-free cloth is impregnated with trichlorethylene, Galosh gasoline or acetone. The bowl is carefully processed and then dried.
The bathtub can be painted using a spray gun. Experts claim that this method gives the best results.
Apply enamel to the bathtub
Immediately before painting should be done in the bathroom wet cleaning. This will get rid of dust that may settle on the surface of the wet enamel. In this case, unpleasant rough spots will appear on the glossy layer, which is extremely undesirable. After this, the door to the bathroom should be kept constantly closed or the opening should be covered with polyethylene.
After this, if necessary, the composition for work is prepared. In this case, all manufacturer's instructions must be strictly followed. Ready solution applied to the surface of the bowl. The easiest way to do this is to work with a spray bottle. The paint is sprayed from a distance of about 30 cm. Cross short strokes are made. The solution should slightly moisten the surface.
You don't need to apply a lot of paint. The bowl is covered with several layers of the composition. This needs to be done evenly. The second layer is applied to the first after 15-20 minutes, all subsequent ones are applied at intervals of 30 minutes. After finishing work, the bowl should dry completely. To do this, close the door to the bathroom tightly and enter it only after a day. Painting with a brush is done a little differently.
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Conclusions and useful video on the topic
The videos below discuss in detail different ways restoration of a cast iron bathtub.
How to properly install an acrylic liner:
Do you have any questions about the topic of this article? Or maybe you have ever restored a cast iron bathtub yourself? Please tell our readers which restoration method you chose, are you satisfied with the result? Leave your comments, upload photos, share your experience in the block below.
Bathtub update- This is a range of services for the restoration and renovation of bathtubs. The list of services related to bathtub renovation includes restoration of bathtubs with acrylic (using the “fill-in bath” method) and enameling. A mandatory component is thorough surface preparation: cleaning, grinding, degreasing. On this page you can learn more about bathtub renovation services in Moscow from the MosGorVanna company.
Restoration of bathtubs with acrylic from 2490₽
Bathtub restoration with liquid acrylic – great way restore a beautiful appearance to your plumbing and significantly increase its service life. Restoring a bathtub with acrylic will allow you to completely renew the coating in just a couple of hours, making it snow-white and smooth. Restoring a bathtub with liquid acrylic is carried out in several stages that require experience and patience. In order not to risk time and money, order the services of specialists - our company offers to order the restoration of a bathtub with liquid acrylic in Moscow.
Modern technology for restoring the acrylic coating of a bathtub - “fill-in bathtub” - will allow you to quickly update the old coating. Acrylic will serve you for 15-20 years, and all work will take only 2 hours.
Acrylic insert in the bathtub from 3490₽
Acrylic insert - installation acrylic liner - a way to improve the appearance of the bathroom, save money Money on the purchase, delivery and installation of a new bath and repair work. The service “Installation of acrylic liner in Moscow” is offered by many organizations. The MosGorVanna company installs liners supplied with a quality certificate of the original ISComp product.
Bathtub enamel from 3000₽
Bathtub enamel- an inexpensive and time-tested method of restoring coatings that have lost their attractive appearance. This restoration method is suitable for cast iron and steel products. Coating bathtubs with enamel allows you to renew the color, eliminate roughness, stains and smudges. Bathtub restoration with enamel is also used if it is necessary to hide scratches, chips and cracks. The main advantage of enameling bathtubs is that there is no need to dismantle, reposition the rim tiles or remove the drain. Restoring bathtubs with enamel takes a relatively short amount of time, and the results last for several years.
Color bath
Colored bath (tinting the bath)- interesting design solution. With the help of tinting paste we can give any shade as acrylic coating, and the enamel of your bath. Show your imagination, and we will make your wish come true.
Any method of bathtub restoration, be it a pour-in bathtub, enamel or acrylic insert, can be combined with a change in the color of your bathtub. There is nothing more attractive than a sparkling white bathtub. However color scheme for your bath can add personality and a unique effect to the design. Therefore, if your bathroom already has colored plumbing fixtures or you just want to make unusual bath, order a bathtub tinting service.
Local repair of chips and scratches
Repairing cracks, chips, and scratches in bathtubs— This service is suitable for those for whom traditional restoration is not suitable (owners of bathtubs of non-standard shapes and sizes; bathtubs with hydromassage systems; expensive or new baths).
The choice of method for repairing chips on a bathtub or sink depends on the nature and scale of the defect. The peculiarity of this type of restoration is locality. The main types of flaws include:
- eliminating chips of the bathtub coating on the sides, borders with the bathtub drain, and the surface of the bathtub;
- Repairing bathtub cracks differs from scratches in the depth of damage;
- liquidation through holes in the bath.
other services
Often the price for bathtub restoration rises precisely because of the provision of unnecessary additional services. services from unscrupulous companies. The only thing that is necessary is cleaning the bathtub, if it was previously covered with anything, all the rest are additional. Services are provided only at your request and are not obligatory. For example, we recommend that you replace the old drain/overflow to give the bath an even more beautiful and noble look, but, we repeat, this is not necessary.
Price for bathtub renovation, painting and new coating
MosGorVanna has been on the plumbing services market for nine years. During this time, we have developed an extensive client base. The price for updating a bathtub is lower than that of competitors, while maintaining excellent quality of work.
Depending on the capabilities, the price for updating the bathtub may vary:
- "Economy" ( minimum required), from 2490 rub.;
- “Standard” (optimal), from 3,400 rubles;
- “Premium” (or “Premium 8”) - with advanced features, from 4900 rubles.
The cost of updating a bathtub in Moscow determines the choice of composition, the strength of the coating and the warranty period.
Bathroom renovation products
To update bathtubs, MosGorVanna specialists use products from the following brands: Finnacryl, Stacril Ecolor and AKreal. The application methods for each bath renovation product allow us to offer options in each of the three price plans.
Depending on the manufacturer, the compositions differ in parameters:
- "Finnacryl" - odorless, with the possibility of obtaining an impact-resistant coating and a guarantee of durability (in the "Premium-8" category) - 5 years.
- "Stacryl Ecolor" - acceptable quality at low cost, environmental safety, guarantee - for tariff plan"Lux" - 3 years;
- "AKreal" - high strength and durability, warranty - in the "Premium-8" package - 5 years.
Bathroom renovation in Moscow: Why us?
1. professionalism and narrow specialization: MosGorVanna has been providing bathtub restoration services since 2008;
2. narrow-profile (restoration) and related work: the turnkey method frees the customer from cleaning, noise, dust, dirt;
3. expedited work procedures and provision of written guarantees.
"MosGorVanna" - updating the bathtub in exact dates, at a low price and with excellent quality of work!
We offer not only a good price, but also high quality. While studying this technology, you probably already know that the most important factor(in addition to an experienced craftsman), which affects the durability of the new coating is the use of high-quality, certified material. We relied on real liquid acrylic, as the most reliable raw material, tested for ten years and proven in practice its worthy performance properties.
Thus, the favorable cost of services in our company is not due to savings on cheap consumables, but by constantly increasing the volume of work and expanding the client base. Calculate the amount of upcoming financial expenses you can right now by contacting our price list.
Akryl-Moscow is one of the leaders in the restoration market in Moscow, so we guarantee decent quality at the most affordable prices. The price our customers pay is always lower than they expected!