Leveling the ceiling with your own hands. Methods for leveling a ceiling for painting

Uneven ceilings are a pressing problem in both old and new homes. If differences in the level of walls can be visually hidden with spotted wallpaper or decorative items, then you cannot paste wallpaper on the ceiling or hang a picture. You have to level the ceiling, the cost of which is usually several times higher than the cost of leveling the walls. You can trust such work only to trusted craftsmen, so that you don’t have to redo it later. And, if you do not have the opportunity to hire a serious, highly paid company, it is better to learn this yourself. In most cases, leveling ceilings with your own hands turns out to be of better quality than that of an inexperienced handyman. In any case, you will treat your ceiling with more responsibility and care than a stranger. And your new skill will undoubtedly come in handy in the subsequent renovation of your home.

Causes of uneven ceilings

Significant differences in ceiling level are most often the result of improper installation of floor slabs. Often the slabs are not only laid at different levels, but also installed at an angle, which makes the task even more difficult. In addition, cracks and unevenness in the ceiling sometimes appear due to shrinkage of the house or erosion of its foundation. Minor depressions can form due to poor cementation of the seams between the ceiling tiles, as well as due to the laying of wiring along the ceiling. But in any case, when planning to level the ceiling, the price of which depends on the technology, you should first determine the magnitude of the difference.

Determining the magnitude of the difference

The magnitude of the difference between the highest and lowest points of the ceiling determines which method of leveling it should be chosen. For this measurement, it is most convenient to use a water level or laser level. But if you don't professional builder, and you don’t have such a device, a regular building level will do. Applying it to the lowest point of the ceiling, we measure the vertical distance from the opposite edge of the level to the highest point of the ceiling.

Methods for leveling the ceiling:

Raw methods. They are called so because the dry mixtures in this case are diluted with water. This includes plastering and puttying of walls. They are used if the height of the difference is no more than 5-7 cm. If the difference is from 5 to 7 cm, the ceiling is first plastered. and then putty. If the difference is from 2 to 5 cm, putty is immediately applied to the reinforcing mesh. And if the difference is very small (up to 2 cm), only a layer of putty without a mesh is enough.
Dry methods They involve not so much leveling the ceiling as masking its unevenness using various dry materials:

Technique for leveling the ceiling using raw methods

First, dismantling is carried out old paint and plaster. To do this, soften it with a wet roller and knock it down with a sharp spatula. If you have a drill or hammer drill, you can dismantle them faster. Special mixtures are also sold for washing off old paint, and in the old days an iodide solution was used instead. If after dismantling you find mold on the floor slabs, you should treat it with an antifungal aerosol or copper sulfate.

Next, mark the walls. To do this, use a level (laser, water or regular) to determine the lowest point draft ceiling, by which they will measure him. Mark it on the wall with a pencil, and draw a line along the entire perimeter of the walls of the room, which will serve as a guide for the lower border of the future ceiling. But keep in mind that even the most correctly set using laser level the horizontal will not seem horizontal enough if you have an uneven floor.

After marking, the ceiling is treated with concrete primer 2 times and allowed to dry. For wet rooms, use moisture-resistant soil. If there is a need for plastering (a difference of more than 2 cm), use gypsum or cement plaster. Gypsum plaster has more pronounced insulating properties, but is not resistant to moisture. In damp rooms it is used only cement plaster. If the difference is significant, it is additionally reinforced with paint or metal mesh. The painting mesh has a sticky inner side and is easy to stick to the ceiling. Metal grid fastens with nails or screws.

The plaster is mixed according to the manufacturer’s proportions in the container big size using a drill. To apply it, use two spatulas. Spread the mixture over the second with one spatula, and directly on the ceiling with the second. If necessary, the plaster is applied in several layers, each subsequent after the previous one has completely dried. Next, the ceiling is putty first with a base putty and then with a finishing fine-abrasive putty. After it dries, the walls are rubbed with sandpaper. Leveling ceilings, video:

Dry ceiling leveling technique

Regardless of the material chosen for the ceiling cladding, the technique for attaching them is very similar. In this case, you don’t even have to dismantle the old ceiling, except to remove what is crumbling by itself. Then, in the same way as described earlier, they mark the walls, but step back slightly from the lower point of the rough ceiling. If it is a suspended ceiling, they retreat by at least 3-4 cm, and if it is siding or drywall - by 10, and sometimes 15 cm. This is necessary so that the starting profile fits under the ceiling, all the necessary communications, and at least the minimum remains slot for ventilation.

Next, profiles, or so-called sheathing, are installed along the lines marked on the walls. For drywall, metal foam is used, and for siding - wooden profiles. After this it installs itself ceiling covering, and in the case of PVC suspended ceilings, it is also preheated with a heat gun. Leveling ceilings with your own hands, video:

Finishing work in any room, be it a residential building, a store or an office, begins with the design of the ceiling surface. There are different ways to do this, but most of them require preliminary leveling of the ceiling. There are several ways to carry out this operation.

This procedure is recommended when the ceiling is too blocked, making use not only impractical, but also dangerous. Before starting work, you must prepare the following tools and materials for leveling the ceiling:

Level, tape measure, marker - for marking.
Metal profiles, screws, dowels and a hammer drill - for installing the frame.
Plasterboard boards and special fasteners for ceiling cladding.
Putty and a narrow spatula - for sealing joints.

If the ceiling was previously plastered and is now crumbling, then you should remove the coating using a hammer drill and a chisel. If it holds well, you should tap it to reveal weak spots. Metal profiles are held on by self-tapping screws, which are not recommended to be screwed into an unreliable surface. Then the resulting dust is removed from the coating and treated 2 times with an antiseptic primer. After this you can start marking:

First with building level and a marker draw lines near the walls, retreating from them by about 30 cm.
Opposite lines are connected taking into account the building level, the interval should be 20 cm less than the width of the plasterboard sheets.
Profiles are applied one by one along these lines and holes are drilled every 15 cm.
Dowels are inserted into the holes and the profile is secured with self-tapping screws; it is important to take into account the collapse of the ceiling.

Installing a drywall frame on the ceiling

Important! If you plan to lay any utilities, this must be done at this stage.

Now you need to screw the drywall to the frame with special fasteners; you may need to trim the material along the edges.

After all the sheets have been installed, you should prepare the putty or unpack the finished one. Scoop the material onto a spatula and transfer it to the drywall joint, then stretch it in a thin layer along the seam. At the end, the ceiling is subjected to further finishing - finishing putty, decorative plaster or painting.

Installation of drywall on the frame must be carried out very carefully, after laying all communications

Other methods of leveling the ceiling involve the use of various solutions.

Treating a problematic ceiling with plaster

To cope with curved surface, which has some defects, leveling the ceiling with plaster is perfect. For this operation you will need the following tools and materials:

Scrapers, brushes, chisels, solvent, rags, sponges - to remove old coating.
Primer, paint brush or a roller for applying it.
Marker, tape measure, level - for marking.
A container, mixer or drill with an attachment - for preparing the solution.
Dry or, beacons, a set of spatulas, as a rule - for application.
A grater, a trowel, a sander or just sandpaper for grouting.

Preparatory work

First of all, the surfaces to be treated are cleaned. It is on the ceilings that mold or mildew most often appears, so you need to carefully examine the surface and find all the hot spots, if any. Then the surface should be treated with special means, for example, copper sulfate, Pufas or Homeenpoiste preparations. If significant parts of the ceiling (or the entire ceiling) are covered with mold, you will have to use open fire– the surface is treated blowtorch or gas burner.

Before plastering the ceiling, it is necessary to get rid of mold and mildew.

If the ceiling was previously painted, then the paint is soaked in solvent and removed with sponges. You can also scrape off the coating with a spatula. The whitewash is soaked in water and also removed with a sponge. If the ceiling was previously plastered, then the layer of plaster must be removed using a hammer drill with a chisel attachment. After this, the ceiling is cleaned of all contaminants.

On a note! To increase the roughness of the ceiling and improve adhesion to the plaster, it is recommended to sandblast the surface.

At the end there are 2 layers of deep penetration primer and installation of reinforcing mesh if the surfaces are wooden.

Preparing the ceiling surface for leveling with plaster

Installation of beacons

First you need to find out the thickness of the plaster layer. To do this, you need to use a building level to determine how blocked the ceiling is, and add to this the thickness of the beacon (0.6 or 1 cm).
On a note! For plastering walls, it is permissible to add another 0.5 cm of margin, but there should be as little plaster on the ceiling as possible.
Mark this point on opposite walls 30 cm from the corners, screw in the screws and pull the thread, under this thread screw two screws into the ceiling 15 cm from the walls so that the fasteners barely touch it.
Construction cord allows you to quickly mark the ceiling for beacons
Then you should step back 80 cm and tie the thread again and screw in the next pair of screws. This is how you need to mark the entire ceiling.
After this, you need to prepare the same solution that will be used to level the ceilings, and cut the beacons 30 cm shorter than the length of the ceiling.
Between each pair of screwed-in screws, apply the solution in small portions, after which the beacon is leaned against it and pressed so that the ridge of the product becomes flush with the heads of the screws.
Then you need to pause for about 12 hours so that the solution on which the beacons are held dries, and you can start plastering.

Applying plaster

It starts with preparing the solution. If a gypsum mixture is used, it is important to prepare the solution in small portions so that it does not have time to dry out.

On a note! To carry out this procedure, it is better to use a large bucket with a square base. The high walls will prevent the material from splashing, and the shape will allow you to scoop the plaster onto the spatula without leaving any residue.

The technology for leveling the ceiling with plaster is as follows:

VIDEO: How to level a ceiling with your own hands using gypsum plaster

Leveling with putty

This method is suitable if the ceiling surface is relatively flat, does not have significant defects, or has been previously prepared using building mixtures or plasterboard. The main difference between putty and plaster is the grain size. The putty contains filler with a fraction of 0.1-1mm. As a result of its use, a perfectly flat surface is achieved. Applying putty consists of the following steps:

Preparation. The coating is rubbed down with sandpaper, after which it is treated with a primer using a brush or roller.
Applying the first layer. Its maximum thickness is 1 cm. The material is transferred to the ceiling with a spatula, and it is also used to level it. Then it is rubbed with a trowel.
Applying the finishing layer. Its thickness should be 1-3 mm. This layer must be used to level out all, even the smallest, defects. After it has dried and sanded, the leveling procedure can be considered complete.

To make the process as fast and convenient as possible, you need to follow some recommendations:

Leveling the ceiling with your own hands is quite simple. You just need to follow the instructions above and be patient. It is better not to rush and delay the procedure for several days, but in the end you will get a good result.

Some residents try to fix this problem themselves, but do not know exactly how to level the ceiling with their own hands. With an abundance of finishing materials, they get lost and often choose putty mixtures instead of plaster or drywall, believing that this will save them money.

But for correct processing unevenness, you need to know what leveling methods there are and what they depend on. There are only two of them:

Wet method - leveling using dry construction mixtures diluted with ordinary water (plaster, putty).
Dry method - leveling the entire ceiling area by installing panels made of plastic, chipboard, plywood or plasterboard.

The use of each option depends on the level of shear of the slabs, on the presence (in old buildings) of pipes or beams under the ceiling and on your capabilities. For example, the choice to eliminate the difference in drywall involves sealing the entire ceiling, and this is an “expensive pleasure.”

But unlike the “wet” method, covering with plasterboard:

takes less time (4-5 hours instead of 4-5 days);
allows you to do without almost any dust and dirt that occurs when working with bulk compositions;
hides irregularities of any type and size;
allows you to install (hang, build in) lamps of different types;
makes it possible to create multi-level, curved planes and niches (for example, for hidden lamps);
allows you to install sound or thermal insulation.

Disadvantage of the method:

a significant decrease in the height of the room (6 cm or more);
Availability additional employee during installation of gypsum boards due to size and weight.

Dependence of the processing method on the shift level

If the displacement of the slabs (maximum) is 2-3 cm or less, then it is very easy to treat with a putty mixture. To do this, it is advisable to use two types of mixtures - regular and finishing. If the difference is more than 2 cm, it is necessary to work with a reinforcing mesh.
If the maximum level of shift is more than 2-3 cm, but less than 5 cm, then it is necessary to carry out “wet work”:

apply plaster (0.5-1 cm less than level shift) and wait for it to dry completely. If a thick layer (3 cm) is applied, then use a metal mesh or beacons;
Next, apply 1-2 layers of putty to prepare for painting.

If the difference is 5 cm or more and if there are beams or pipes under the ceiling, it is technologically advantageous to cover the entire area with materials produced in the form of slabs (gypsum plasterboard, plastic, etc.).

Ceiling markings

From the very beginning, the magnitude of the difference is measured with a laser water level or a homemade one, which is made from two transparent tubes (glass) connected by a hose 1.2-1.5 times longer than the length of the wall. The tube is not completely filled with colored water (you can use tea color) and closed with your fingers on both sides.

Use homemade level like this: one person aligns the mark of one end of the tube with the mark at the corner of the wall, the other, raising and lowering the other tube, marks the second point.

The easiest way to mark a line is with painter's cord. After determining the level of shift and marking the walls, a cord painted with chalk or special paint is stretched between points on one wall. By pulling and releasing the cord, mark the bottom line of the future level.

Depending on the magnitude of the shift, one of the alignment methods described above is selected. Let's consider each of them separately.

"Wet" work

If it is intended to carry out work related to plastering or puttying, then the surface is prepared in advance. To do this you need:

remove outdated coating;
prime the ceiling;
install beacons (when working with plaster).

Removing an outdated layer involves removing (beating, prying or scraping) the putty, whitewash, plaster, chalk, etc. remaining on the ceiling. For this, use a bush hammer or a (hard) spatula.

If you can't buy these tools nearby, you can make them yourself. A hard spatula can be made from a regular spatula by cutting its blade to 3 cm in length. Metal part will lose flexibility and accordingly gain rigidity. The bush hammer can be replaced with the iron part of any ax or used (for breaking off cement, plaster, etc.) with a small hatchet.

The primer is designed to provide subsequent layers (putty, paint, etc.) with reliable adhesion to the prepared surface. The choice of primer depends on the humidity of the room. In “wet” spots (bathroom, toilet, kitchen) a mixture with waterproofing is used.

It is best to buy deep penetration masses (look at the label, ask the seller or specialist). Different tools are used for priming:

maklovitsa - used when working with uneven concrete floors;
roller – intended for priming and painting flat surfaces;
Malka - used for rough processing of the ceiling (laying, tightening the mixture).

The following tools are used for applying, spreading and leveling compounds on smooth surfaces and in corners, as well as for finishing sanding:

If you intend to apply a thick layer of plaster, then it is advisable to install beacons (profiles) or a metal mesh, and when working with putty, use a serpyanka.

The serpyanka is secured with glue. It is applied to the surface, a tape is applied and a spatula or rag is passed over it. The metal mesh is secured with staples. In some cases, it can be secured with staples from a construction stapler.

Installation of beacons

When attaching beacons you need to know the following rules:

be sure to cover with soil (a mixture of water and starting putty) the entire ceiling and wait until it dries completely (takes 1-6 hours). Ready solutions use is not recommended due to their high price;
apply a line of the mixture and attach beacons of the appropriate size to it, which depends on the thickness of the plaster:

during installation, the beacon bends, so to mount it, you can take a long level or a flat strip and level it;
to install the beacons at the same height, you can use a thread stretched under the outermost ones;
Leveling the plaster is carried out with a special device - a rule. In this case, the distance between the beacons should be slightly less (10 cm) than the length of this tool;
After installation, you should wait at least 4 hours (preferably a day) to securely attach the beacons to the primed surface. During this time, you should inspect everything carefully and cover up the joints, identified cracks or potholes.

This completes the preliminary surface treatment.

Advice: Take your time! Wait for one layer to dry completely and then apply the next one.

Material consumption per 1 sq./m varies among different companies. For example, when using the Knauf brand composition, 8.5 kg of mixture will be needed per 1 sq./m. By multiplying this value by the area of the ceiling, you get the total weight of the composition required for your work.

It makes sense to use online calculators that will even calculate the number of bags, depending on the composition used.

According to the technology, two types of plaster should be applied: basic and finishing. But the use of some existing mixtures, for example, the universal Rotband plaster from Knauf, allows you to perform plastering quickly and without interference - it successfully replaces both compositions.

The application process is as follows:

the first layer of plaster is applied to the metal mesh pre-fixed on the ceiling or to the space between the beacons;
after complete drying, apply a second layer and so on until you reach the level marked on the walls. Any layer should not be more than 1.5 cm;
the last layer is straightened using the rule;
then, after waiting for it to dry, a thin layer of putty or plaster is applied to finish the entire ceiling (for painting).

For greater adhesion, some craftsmen install pieces of mesh on each subsequent layer.

Advice: If the ceiling difference is more than 3 cm, then it is recommended to “comb” each applied layer with a plaster comb, dry and prime, and then apply the next one.

The calculation of the material depends on the level of difference. For unevenness up to 2 cm, you can adhere to the calculations used for smooth surfaces, but increase the numbers by 1.5 times. Here are the final consumption values for some compounds:

It is enough to multiply this data by the area of the ceiling to get the total weight of the mixture to treat the entire surface. On the pages of the World Wide Web there are online calculators that will calculate all the data depending on the composition used.

After the applied primer and glued serpyanka have completely dried, you can begin to apply the first (leveling) 1 cm layer of putty, using the starting composition for this purpose. You can find out about the purpose and type of compositions from the label or when purchasing in a store.

The mixture is diluted according to the instructions and brought to the consistency of sour cream using a drill with an attachment;
then apply it to the surface with a spatula, level it with a metal float and wait for the starting layer to dry completely.

If the room is ventilated and the temperature in it is more than 15 degrees / C, then the finishing part is done after 4-5 hours. To be sure, it is better to wait 24 hours. The finishing putty is applied in two passes. To do this, use a medium spatula.

If the surface to be processed is large (20 sq. m or more), preference is given to a trowel, the use of which significantly increases the processing speed.

After applying the last layer (under suitable weather conditions), wait a day and begin sanding. Due to the dust generated during this operation, it is advisable to carry out work in a respirator and construction glasses.

Leveling the surface with plasterboard

If you plan to cover the unevenness with plasterboard, then preliminary preparation need not. In this process, a kind of gypsum plasterboard panel is installed, which eliminates and covers large irregularities and differences and allows you to hide beams or pipes running under the ceiling.

The whole process can be divided into 3 stages:

Calculation and selection of material.
Marking walls and installing profiles.
Securing sheets.

Selection and calculation of elements

Typically, gypsum board is sold in sheets with dimensions of 1.2 x 2.5 m (3 m area). For installation on the ceiling, choose gypsum boards with a thickness of 1 cm. There are three types of drywall, of which the population uses two:

gray or white - for cladding dry rooms;
bluish or green (moisture resistant) - for “wet” spots.

The calculation of the material is carried out by calculating the private areas of the ceiling and gypsum board. Always take an extra sheet to spare. This will help in case of accidental breakage of the plasterboard.

Sheet S = 3 sq/m.

Ceiling S = 19 sq/m.

amount of gypsum board = Sp / Sl = 19/3 = 6.3 +1 in stock = 7-8 sheets.

To calculate, draw a plan of the ceiling (to scale) and outline it. For clarity, we will present installation options in a 19 sq./m room.

The number of profiles (length 3 m) is calculated depending on the width of the apartment

if it is equal to or less than 3 meters, then the installation and installation of the SG is carried out along the width. They are attached at intervals of 25-50 cm. This is influenced by the load applied to the ceiling (for example, a heavy bronze chandelier).

Room length = 4.7 m;

Width = 2.7 m;

470 cm/25 cm = about 19 pieces - with heavy load;

470 cm/50 cm = about 10 pieces – minimum quantity;

To the received quantity you need to add 2-4 more pieces to install guides along the length of the room.

if the width of the room is more than 3 m, you need to buy 1.5-2 times more profiles. It is recommended to install support PGs (2 pieces) in the middle of the ceiling.

Advice: Install thick-walled profiles at least 50 mm wide.

If the installation is carried out with a narrow PG, it will not withstand the weight of the material and the entire structure will collapse.

Marking walls and installing profiles

Measuring the height of the room in the corners, we find the lowest of them and mark a point below the ceiling level in this place by 50 mm. If you plan to insert lamps, then make a mark at a distance of 80 mm.
To mark the height in the remaining corners (starting from the marked point), we use homemade or laser levels.
We connect the marks with a line along the perimeter, using a painter’s cord, as described above.

We attach the guides to the walls (along the length of the room) as follows:

install the profile with the bottom edge on the line from the painting cord;
Using a thin drill, we drill through the PG and the wall in several places;
remove the guide and drill out the resulting holes to the caliber of the dowels;
glue a tape (sealing) to the back of the profile and secure it with dowels or screws;
measure the distance remaining to the corner (if the length of the room is more than 3 m), cut off the required piece from another profile and repeat the drilling and fastening operation.

We insert it into the PG guides and mark the locations of the U-shaped hangers. The PG is installed so that the dimensions of the sheet are divided by the interprofile distance without a remainder:

if the sheets are mounted along the width of the room, then the main profiles are placed every 0.4-0.45 m (gypsum board width 120-125 cm);
if the sheets are reinforced along the length, then after 0.5 m or 0.6 m (the length of the gypsum board is 3 m).

We remove the profiles inserted into the guides and attach the hangers to the marked places. We perform the already familiar drilling operation and strengthen the straightened suspensions with anchors.
We insert the PGs again and secure them with drywall screws through the holes in the bent hangers, and then on the main guides on the walls

If your room is more than 3 m wide, you are supposed to strengthen a heavy element of lighting (bronze chandelier) or decor - install two profiles side by side in the middle of the room and fix them in the main guides with self-tapping screws for gypsum boards.

To enhance the rigidity of the structure, you can insert jumpers between the reinforced profiles, and to fix them, use special fasteners - crabs.

Bend or cut with a grinder or electric. use a jigsaw to cut out the protruding parts of the hangers.
If necessary, install insulation (sound and heat) and begin installing drywall.

Fastening the gypsum board

Necessarily! On all gypsum boards it is necessary to chamfer the corners and only then begin their installation, leaving a 3 mm gap at the walls.

To install the sheets (due to their size and weight), 2 individuals are required - one on each side. Drywall is applied to the guides and screwed. Screw in the screws, recessing their heads flush, every 20-30 cm, and install the sheets themselves with a shift (staggered).

The condition of the ceiling surface depends on many factors, but it is close to ideal only after recent repairs. In all other cases, there are defects on the ceiling - the most visible base of the room - that homeowners strive to eliminate as quickly and efficiently as possible.

The main criterion for the quality of ceilings is their evenness, if you do not take into account some original ways finishing, for example, with wooden beams. Only on a leveled base or by hiding the defective surface under a masking shell can a decorative or, at least, classic finishing of this structural element premises. Let's look at several of the most common ways to level a ceiling with your own hands, depending on the significance of its defects.

Types of ceiling bases

In modern housing construction, the most common are beam or beamless reinforced concrete floors, which can be of the following design:

monolithic;
prefabricated;
prefabricated monolithic.

There are other technological solutions - arched brick, hipped, wooden and other structures, but homeowners are much less likely to encounter the problem of leveling such foundations.

Monolithic floors are made by pouring concrete into formwork with reinforcement installed locally - in the interfloor plane.

Prefabricated roofing structures are made from ready-made reinforced concrete slabs(hollow or monolithic), mounted end-to-end on beams or load-bearing walls.

Prefabricated monolithic floors- relatively new technology, which consists in installing hollow aerated concrete blocks end-to-end between the beams, on top of which cement mortar is poured, connecting the structure into one whole.

Each method has both certain advantages and disadvantages, which must subsequently be neutralized.

Ceiling defects

The degree to which it is necessary to level the ceilings after installing the floors depends on many factors, but even with an impeccable base, it is largely determined by the installation technology.

The ceiling surfaces of monolithic reinforced concrete coverings require the least correction - they are located in the same horizontal plane and have no joints.

The situation is different with prefabricated and prefabricated monolithic structures.

On prefabricated floors there are differences in the level of the slabs, which can also be located at some small angle to the horizontal. In addition, to mask such installation defects or cracks, builders often cut rustications along the seams, which eventually collapse and require repair or sealing.

Prefabricated monolithic structure the ceiling has a flat surface of the ceiling base, on top of which plastering is performed to hide the joints of the blocks. But the difference in the materials used to make the blocks, the mounting mortar and the leveling composition causes cracking in the plaster.

Ceilings of any design need routine maintenance and repairs, but the list and scope of what needs to be done finishing works may vary significantly depending on the types of defects that require a specific elimination technology.

The complex of finishing works to eliminate ceiling defects can be combined with the general definition of “leveling”, which, depending on the method of execution, will include certain operations.

Methods for leveling ceiling surfaces

In essence, ceiling leveling methods can be divided into wet and dry. Wet includes leveling using various hardening mixtures, dry includes installation of plasterboard, suspended and suspended ceilings.

Wet and dry leveling methods, naturally, differ in the composition of the work required.

In general wet methods alignments include:

removal of poor quality or worn coating;
sealing old or cutting new rustications;
filling potholes and cracks;
bringing the base of the ceilings into a single horizontal plane;
final leveling of the surface.

Dry methods consist of the following basic operations:

installation of the frame with leveling;
ceiling installation.

Let's consider these methods, which are equally widely used when repairing ceilings.

Repair of ceilings using leveling mixtures

If the ceiling base is concrete, the height of the premises is around 2.5 meters, and big differences there are no surfaces at the level, then the most rational method of repair would be to level the ceiling using special mixtures, since installing a frame will significantly reduce the height of the room.

Surface preparation

Preparatory work at are especially important, since the force of gravity will constantly act on the leveling layers, aimed at breaking.

If the ceilings are finished water-based paint, then it must be completely removed. The whitewash is moistened and soaked in water using a paint roller, after which it is easily removed with a narrow spatula.

If the finishing material is oil paint or enamel, then the amount of work to remove it depends on the condition of the base. If the ceilings are smooth, then the surface is tapped with a hammer, and the paint along with the plaster is removed only where plaster mortar peeled off.

If there are differences in height or deviations from the horizontal of the slabs, when leveling mixtures have to be applied to them, the oil paint from the ceiling must be completely removed. This is done with a grinder with a steel dry-cutting disc - a layer of paint is chipped off the surface along with part of the plaster; unevenness in the form of small convex areas can also be removed with a grinder.

Important! Work as a grinder (grinder) is performed in protective glasses and a respirator.

The joints between the slabs are also cleared of fillers - damaged rustications are knocked down manually with a chisel and hammer.

After cleaning construction waste the room is ventilated and treated with a vacuum cleaner, and then the ceilings are primed with a ready-made hydrophobic primer composition or a self-prepared aqueous solution of latex in a ratio of 1:4. Primer coating in in this case convenient to do with a spray gun.

After a day, the surface is ready for the application of leveling mixtures.

How to level a defective concrete ceiling?

Leveling the ceiling with your own hands begins with sealing the rust. The gaps in the joints of the slabs are filled to the maximum depth polyurethane foam, the excess of which is cut off after curing stationery knife, going 2-3 cm into the seam. A layer of basic cement-based leveling mixture is applied over the cut of the polyurethane foam. If the ceiling plane is flat and has no differences, then after curing the composition in the sealed rusts, the ceiling is waterproofed, and then the finishing putty is done with a gypsum-based composition, preferably with preliminary reinforcement over the seams with sickle tape.

The number of layers depends on the skill of the performer; usually two layers are applied - the second after the first has cured. Then the surface is sanded, cleaned of dust with a vacuum cleaner and coated with a primer.

If ceiling tiles have differences in height, the amount of leveling work increases significantly. In this case, the range of the magnitude of the differences is important, since the solution to the question of what exactly and what mixture to level the ceiling with depends on it.

You need to assume that leveling the ceilings wet method are produced with differences in height of up to 50 mm - a layer of plaster of even less thickness, made with violations of technology, poses a danger to life if it peels off and collapses.

Plastering ceilings cement-sand mortar requires professional skills - applying a freshly prepared solution to the ceiling base with its fixation on it is difficult, and the slightest deviation from the recipe or correct execution technique leads to the mixture falling. Therefore, take on the task of independently performing this work without the availability practical experience- an empty idea. And with differences in height up to 30 mm, leveling the ceiling with your own hands is quite possible - the characteristics of special mixtures based on cement or gypsum simplify this operation.

Marking the horizontal plane of the ceiling

Under the ceiling surface, a horizontal plane must be designated, to the level of which all base points must be lowered. To do this, first of all, determine the lowest corner of the ceiling. The easiest way to do this is with a laser level - the device is placed in the center of the room, leveled and, rotating it in a horizontal plane, one mark is made on the vertical corners of the walls of the room. Then measure the distances from these marks to the ceiling and select smallest value– the new ceiling plane should be located at this level after leveling.

In the absence of a laser level, horizontal marks along the perimeter of the walls under the ceiling can be set using a transparent flexible hose with water - if you fill it with water, then, according to the law of communicating vessels, the liquid levels at the ends of the hose will be at the same height.

Holes are drilled along the perimeter of the walls at the top and self-tapping screws are screwed in at 0.5 m increments, along which control cords are pulled along and across the room, forming the plane of the future ceiling.

Important! If any section of the ceiling surface is located below the level of the cords, then it must be cut off with a grinder with a cutting disc or all control cords must be lowered to the required amount.

Having the outline of the future area, measure maximum thickness layer required to be applied to level the base. If this value is from 30 to 50 mm, then, as mentioned above, it is better to entrust this work to professionals who will plaster the ceilings with cement-sand mortar. If the layer does not exceed 30 mm, then you can level the ceiling in the apartment yourself using cement and gypsum mixtures.

Construction of control beacons

It is better to make a layer with a thickness of 20 to 30 mm from a mixture of cement based, placing it on the reinforcing steel mesh, fixed to the ceiling with brackets or secured with self-tapping screws. The reinforcement will prevent the layer from collapsing even if it detaches from the base due to some factors.

Beacons are installed on top of the grid - rows of cones made of cement mixture height equal to the distance to the cord in this place. After the cones have hardened, they are connected with the same mixture in such a way as to create even and smooth guides for the rule, which will remove excess of the subsequently applied composition.

The leveling composition prepared according to the instructions is applied to the base with a wide spatula, if necessary, in layers, after the mixture of the previous application has cured and dried. In this case, the surface of the previous layer must be “combed” before setting - run over it with a notched trowel to create a profile to which the next layer will adhere more firmly.

Important! You cannot speed up the curing and drying process of the plaster by creating a draft or increasing the temperature in the room.

After completely filling the gaps between the guides, excess plaster is removed by running the rule over a fresh, slightly set layer - the device is moved along the guides, pressing against them and at the same time performing movements in transverse directions. The sinks remaining after the rule are filled with the same solution and grouted.

Leveling the ceilings is completed by applying finishing putty– this is done in two or three layers with intermediate drying and removal of convex marks from the movements of the spatula. Then the surface is sanded with sandpaper secured to a flat block or a special holder. The sanded base is primed with one of the hydrophobic compounds, after drying which is whitewashed or the surface is finished. decorative tiles.

Leveling ceilings with plasterboard

This method of repairing ceilings is less labor-intensive and, unlike plastering work, does not require strong practical skills, although this technology has enough rules, non-compliance with which can result in damage to the coating soon after finishing.

Preparing the base

Exfoliated putty and plaster are removed from the ceilings, ceiling rustics are freed from old filling materials and sealed after priming, along with significant potholes. Then the ceiling is completely waterproofed - this will reduce the consequences in case of flooding from above, since drywall, even moisture-resistant, is not designed for direct contact with water.

Marking the frame plane

Let's consider the construction of the simplest, flat ceiling from plasterboard, since many other, more complex types of design are used.

Along the perimeter of the room at a certain distance from the ceiling (depending on the choice of design for future finishing), using a level or a transparent hose with water, starting level marks are applied - horizontal line, along which the installation of boundary profiles will be carried out.

The location of frame parts is marked on the ceiling, which can be of two types:

continuous sheathing with cells measuring 60x60 cm - the joint of two adjacent gypsum boards should be located on the same profile, along it;
linear arrangement of profiles - for longitudinal installation of gypsum boards along them with a distance between parallel guides of 40 cm, and transverse jumpers are mounted only under the joints of the sheets.

Calculation of material consumption

Both frame designs are reliable, so choose the one that requires less material consumption for the specific dimensions of the room.

Based on the completed markings, the material requirements are calculated:

ud-profile – along the perimeter of the room plus 20%;
cd profile– total length of jumpers on the ceiling plus 20%;
suspensions - based on a step of 60 cm.

The standard dimensions of a plasterboard sheet are 2.5 x 1.2 (m). With a simple ceiling configuration (flat, single-level), draw a sketch with dimensions and assemble the gypsum board on it, taking into account the design of the selected frame.

The number of self-tapping screws for installing drywall is taken as 100 pieces per 1 sheet.

Screws with holes - double the number of hangers plus the cost of installing the ud-profile in 40 cm increments.

Frame installation

Work begins with the installation of ud profiles along the perimeter of the room along the starting level. Then hangers are attached to the ceiling along the frame markings with screws, which, after installing the CD profiles, will be bent to attach jumpers to them with self-tapping screws.

The connection of perpendicularly located frame elements is carried out using a special cross - a “crab”. To increase the profile in length it is also used special device, but you can do without it - overlap the part of the next fragment with an overlap of 10 cm and side fastening with self-tapping screws.

In a room with a level, but not smooth ceiling, metal profiles can be replaced with wooden blocks, but they need to be treated with an antiseptic and primed with nitro varnish to protect them from moisture.

Laying drywall

Installation of gypsum boards is best done by two people, so as not to make special T-shaped supports.

Sheets are cut by cutting the product on one side with a stationery knife along a ruler, followed by a break in the direction of the cut.

If the humidity in the room is high, then use moisture resistant drywall– with GKLV marking and casing Green colour. In addition, the cutting surfaces of the sheets are coated with a primer nitro varnish - gypsum is hygroscopic. It wouldn’t be superfluous to cover the gypsum board with a layer of hydrophobic composition with inside– this will protect the sheets from deformation in case of minor leakage from above onto the stone base.

Basic rules for installing drywall on a frame:

a gap of 2-3 mm is left between the sheet and the wall;
installation of elements is carried out in a checkerboard pattern so that the transverse joints of the gypsum boards do not coincide;
the fastening screws are screwed in in increments of 15-20 cm, also in a checkerboard pattern, deepening the cap into the sheet by 1 mm to subsequently hide it with putty;
the ends of the gypsum board sections at the joints are chamfered at an angle of 30-40 degrees (with treatment with nitro varnish) to allow for subsequent filling with the mixture to the full depth.

Plastering gypsum board ceilings

A ceiling mounted from gypsum plasterboard is primed along the joints with a latex-based composition using a paint roller or spray gun.

A day after priming, it is necessary to putty the drywall, starting with filling the seams along the perimeter of the walls and between the sheets that were chamfered before installation. Fill the joints using a narrow spatula special mixture, for example, “Fugenfüller”, while simultaneously covering the screw heads recessed into the sheet with putty. On top of the layer of freshly laid putty along the seams, a reinforcing serpyanka tape is laid, which is embedded in the mixture with a spatula and additionally covered with the same composition.

The ceiling is given time to dry (1-2 days), after which the putty is treated with sandpaper over the serpyanka on the seams and in other areas where it was used. The sanded base is primed over the entire area, and the ceiling is ready for painting or other type of finishing.

Leveling the ceiling with plastic tiles

Another way to level ceilings is to install strip or rectangular plastic tiles. The essence of the principle is the same - creating an additional shell below the ceiling that will hide defects in the load-bearing base.

The technology for laying tiles is similar to installing drywall:

preparation of the base;
frame installation;
laying tiles.

In this case, the edges of the tiles are made with a locking device, eliminating the need to putty them after installation.

veneer uneven ceiling plastic tiles It’s not difficult even on your own - by analogy with drywall, a frame is mounted, which is more conveniently made from wooden blocks - the tiles are attached to it with small nails driven into the underlayer.

The advantages of this method are that PVC tiles are not afraid of water, are easy to maintain on a daily basis and are available in a wide range of prices.

Dropped ceilings

This type of work can be considered not only as a method of leveling ceilings, but also as an independent type of finishing, the main purpose of which is the artistic cladding of the ceiling base, with a secondary result being its leveling.

The method is not always budget-friendly, unless you consider a type of suspended ceiling made from plasterboard. Suspended structures require significant ceiling heights, as well as the presence of professional skills, since, depending on the characteristics of the room, the finishing frames may differ in both material and installation method.

Therefore, there cannot be universal instructions on how to level ceilings by installing suspended finishing - each specific case needs individual approach.

Stretch ceiling

This is another technology that allows you to hide an unaesthetic ceiling base under a decorative shell. Stretch ceiling They differ in the material of manufacture (elastic, fabric), the method of fastening to the base and the artistic design.

Without professional skills, it is not reasonable to undertake leveling the ceiling with your own hands using this material - correcting errors made during the installation process reduces the aesthetics of the workmanship, and the cost of such cladding is quite high.

Conclusion

Since there are many ways to make an uneven ceiling even, if you decide to do it yourself, you should choose a technology that is close to your existing skills. Even being far from production painting works or plastering, the ceiling can be leveled by applying monotonous, frequently spaced strokes of putty, which will hide defects that were previously noticeable on a relatively flat surface. Therefore, if desired, you can find a correction method that is available both in technical design and in terms of cost level.

The main gist of the article:

Ceilings are an integral factor when assessing the aesthetics of home decoration.
Analysis of surface defects is necessary when choosing a leveling method.
Concrete ceilings are the most common type of flooring.
Budget technologies leveling concrete foundations.
A variety of methods for leveling ceilings allows even non-professionals to do this.

With the advent modern technologies on the installation of suspended and tensile structures Leveling the ceiling with plaster has almost lost its relevance, as it takes a lot of time, effort and money. However, many still prefer this type of finishing as the most environmentally friendly and does not affect the height of the room.

If you can’t save time and effort on it no matter how hard you want, then financial expenses can be minimized if you do all the work yourself. This is not an easy task, and it is also dirty and wet, but if you have made such a decision, our tips will help you avoid mistakes.

Preparatory work

Let’s take as an example the option with the most complex initial data: you need to re-plaster the old uneven concrete ceiling with the existing coating and cracks along the joint between the floor slabs.

Removing old coating

Let’s say right away: any old coating needs to be removed if you don’t want the plaster to fall on your head one day. This is a very unpleasant and messy, but necessary part of the renovation.

The removal method depends on the type of finish:

Chalk or lime whitewash, gypsum putty is impregnated warm water for softening using a roller or brush. Then they clean it off with an old but sharply sharpened spatula while the coating is wet;

Advice. If the whitewash layer is thin, it is easier to simply wash it off, changing the water several times.

Water-based paint is soaked in water with the addition of iodine (10 liter bottle);
Insoluble in water oil paints and the enamels will have to be cleaned “dry” spatula and wire brush. The task will be greatly facilitated by a drill with a wire attachment or a professional remover - special remedy, destroying the coating. It is applied to the surface with a roller and after half an hour is removed with a spatula. The price of such funds is not always humane, but much less time and effort is required.
If the ceiling has been plastered, it must be thoroughly tapped with a hammer to identify peeling areas - they are subject to mandatory removal. To do this, you often have to use an axe, chisel or hammer drill, but the coating that is weakly attached to the ceiling and the 10-20 cm area around the unreliable area must be knocked down.

After completely removing the old coating, dust, dirt, and paint residues remain on the ceiling, so it must be washed after finishing the work.

Another important point: Make sure there is no mold or mildew on the ceiling. The presence of black and brown-green spots indicates that the ventilation system in the room is broken when high humidity or in winter it does not warm up well. Another one possible reason– frequent leaks from above, from neighbors or from the roof.

It is important! It is useless to fight the fungus if these causes are not eliminated. It will appear again and grow, and this is fraught not only with aesthetic problems, but also harmful to health.

To get rid of mold, it is first cleaned off mechanically, after which the affected areas with a large margin around them are burned with a gas burner and treated with special antifungal agents.

Sealing joints and large defects

Watch the video of leveling the ceiling with plaster before starting work. You can make sure that preparation for it takes much more time, but not a single stage can be neglected, because the quality of the finish depends only appearance ceiling, but also your safety.

So, the first step is to thoroughly clean the seams between the floor slabs and treat them with a primer. Do the same with deep potholes and areas of fallen old plaster.

When the primer has dried, repair plaster is applied:

Potholes and chips on the surface are repaired with quick-hardening cement putty, filling them to the plane of the ceiling;
Joints and large cracks are covered with polyurethane foam and after it dries, the excess is cut off. Or they caulk it soaked in liquid gypsum putty tow. Then a layer of putty is applied to them, a strip of plaster fiberglass mesh is glued onto it, which is pressed into the solution with a spatula. The width of the strip should be greater than the width of the slot. Excess putty squeezed out through the cells is rubbed onto the ceiling with a spatula.

After this, they wait for the repaired areas to dry, lightly sand them and carefully prime the entire surface of the ceiling.

Ceiling plastering technology

Ceilings, like walls, can be leveled with plaster using beacons (see Installing beacons for plaster - all the nuances and secrets). But this is rarely really necessary: no furniture will stand or hang on it, no one will examine it to see if it is perpendicular to the walls. Therefore, it is quite enough to simply make the surface flat and smooth, without bringing the plane to the ideal horizon.

There is another reason. The instructions do not allow applying a thick layer of plaster to the ceiling, which could fall off under its own weight, causing damage to the interior and people in the room.

Therefore, if differences are more than 50 mm and there is a desire to achieve perfect alignment it would be smarter and cheaper to do suspended ceiling from plasterboard (see: Cladding the ceiling with plasterboard: doing it right).

Selection of plaster

The choice of material depends on the thickness of the intended plaster marking. Even if you refuse to level, but the ceiling slabs are laid with a significant difference (up to 50 mm) that requires leveling, you will need coarse-grained plaster for thick layers.

If the difference is small (up to 20 mm) and simple leveling and eliminating minor defects on the plane is sufficient, you can use putty of a smaller grain size.

Note. Leveling ceilings with plaster yourself is best done with gypsum-based compounds. They are lighter than cement ones, have good adhesion, and do not crack after drying.

Such mixtures are produced in the form of a dry powder, which must be mixed with water to prepare a working solution. The procedure and proportions of the components are indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.

To mix, you will need a large container (plastic bucket), a drill with a mixing attachment and the following information:

Gypsum compositions set quickly, so the amount of mixed solution should be such that you have time to work it out within half an hour;
The container, tools and water must be clean, equipment must be washed after each batch;
The warmer the water, the faster the finished mixture will harden. It is best to take water at room temperature;
After final mixing, water or dry mixture must not be added to the solution.

Work order

You need to start working immediately after preparing the solution in order to have time to apply it to the surface within 25-30 minutes. The video will tell you better than any words about leveling the ceiling with plaster, but some points are worth focusing on.

Coarse-grained plaster is applied in a layer of at least 5 mm, and for putty this thickness is the maximum. If necessary, you can make several layers for final leveling, but each previous one must dry well.
The solution is applied to a wide spatula and transferred to the ceiling by moving it towards you, after which it is leveled.

After applying plaster to an area of 1.5-2 sq.m. it can be leveled using a rule, holding it with the beveled edge towards you. The thickness of the layer will depend on the angle of inclination of the rule to the plane: the steeper it is, the thinner the layer. You should try to keep this angle constant.

On knocking walls and ceilings, as well as in hard-to-reach places, irregularities are smoothed out with a spatula.
If for leveling it is necessary to apply a second layer of plaster, then the first, until it has dried, is processed with a plaster comb or a notched trowel to obtain a relief. Or, after drying, the first layer is impregnated with a primer.

Note. The drying time of the layer depends on temperature and humidity environment. It is impossible to change them artificially with the help of heaters and drafts, otherwise only the surface layer will dry out and set, and the plaster inside will remain damp.

After drying, the last layer of plaster is sanded with a grater with a nozzle made of plaster mesh or sandpaper. This treatment is quite sufficient for subsequent gluing of the ceiling with wallpaper or ceiling tiles (see Ceiling tiles: selection and characteristics).

Before painting it must be puttied with finishing putty. Gypsum-based Vetonit or Shitrok polymer putty are perfect for this purpose.

Conclusion

Without any experience in plastering, even after studying a lot of materials on the topic and watching the video in this article, you should not take on plastering the ceiling yourself. The slightest failure to comply with the technology can lead to the collapse of the plaster sheet in the near future.

This is not only unpleasant, but also dangerous, since even thin layer The coating has a decent weight and if it falls, it can destroy furniture or cause injury. Therefore the first plastering experience It’s better to get it when finishing the walls, and if you don’t have it, entrust the repair of ceilings to professionals.