During pouring concrete mortar Each layer is compacted. This is done manually by punching the mixture laid in layers with rods made of different materials(metal, wood). All work can be done much faster using special devices- vibrators. But a factory-made vibrating plate purchased for home use is not always an economically viable option because it is expensive. It doesn’t make any sense to work on it several times and then leave it to just lie there. In this case, you can make a vibrator for concrete from a hammer drill with your own hands. A homemade product will speed up the compaction process and improve the quality of the work.
To implement the project in practice, you will need the following: materials and tools:
- metal (steel) plate of the required dimensions, thickness from 50 to 70 mm;
- iron rod or fittings (rectangular or round section) of such length that it is possible to reach the bottom of the exposed formwork structure when pouring concrete;
- perforator;
- an old drill or a pick, a shovel, a chisel, even a crown;
- grinder with metal discs;
- welding machine with electrodes;
- ruler or tape measure;
- marker.
The minimum power of the hammer drill should be 1.5 kW - only such a tool will provide the required performance without overheating.
One side of the rod with a cross-section of 15-20 mm is processed so that it can be inserted into a punch chuck. A stainless steel plate is welded to the second side. For this you will need special electrodes.
It is better that the rod is also made of of stainless steel . Concrete is an aggressive environment. Ordinary metal is highly susceptible to chemical substances, and also wears out faster mechanically.
The sequence of manufacturing the tamping nozzle is as follows:
- cut off with a grinder steel sheet a rectangle of the required dimensions, and from a round or rectangular rod a piece of the required length;
- weld the plate to either end of the rod;
- cut with a small margin seat borax;
- weld it to the rod.
If you do not use an old drill, you will need to make a special adapter for the hammer drill chuck, or use machine tools to grind out a seat at the free end of the rod. The easiest way is to immediately use a drill of the required length. On the basis of a hammer drill, you can make more complex devices, for example, with a flexible shaft, which will additionally mix the working solution.
A homemade tamper for small-sized concrete (the simplest manufacturing option) is presented in the video.
Owners of dachas or private houses are often faced with the need to dig holes under fence posts or pile supports. For drilling the earth it is used as hand tool, and equipped with an electric or fuel drive (for example, gasoline). In the first case, the work will take longer and also require greater labor costs. Buying or renting powerful devices is expensive, so craftsmen figured out how to make a homemade hole drill from a hammer drill.
But homemade devices, compared to factory-made analogues, have the following disadvantages:
- they can only drill relatively shallow holes of small diameter;
- They are not suitable for working on hard soils.
Structurally homemade devices consist of three parts:
- hammer drill;
- conventional earthen auger;
- adapter or gearbox.
The last 2 parts of the device can be made with your own hands. Even sold special attachment (auger) for drilling, which is attached to a powerful hammer drill or drill. A working tool made in this way is shown in the photo below.
An important point is the amount of power and the number of revolutions of the hammer drill, which will be used in conjunction with the drilling device. The optimal value of the first parameter for hand model
homemade pit drill is 2 kW. It should be taken into account that, depending on the number of revolutions, the drill can be connected directly to the hammer drill chuck or through a gearbox. For 2 kW models the latter is not needed. The optimal speed for drilling is considered to be the number of revolutions working attachment
from 60 to 300 per minute. This value depends on the properties of the soil in the area.
- Drilling is performed in two ways:
- continuous;
with periodic removal of soil.
In the first case, you will need a more powerful tool (with more torque).
Algorithm for making a homemade drill To make a drill for holes with your own hands, you will need, in addition to a hammer drill, the following
- angle grinder;
- a welding machine with the appropriate grade of electrodes for the metal used;
- electric drill;
- unnecessary hammer drill;
- metal fittings or rod for making a rod;
- material for the cutting part;
- cable and sockets to make a simple extension cord.
The work of converting a hammer drill into a device that can be used to drill holes in the ground involves directly in creating nozzles. All work is performed in the following sequence:
- cut a piece of the required length from a rod or tube using a grinder (about a meter is enough if the power of the tool is 2 kW);
- knives are attached to the lower end (connection methods and design features of the cutting part are discussed below);
- cut off its base from the drill, intended for installing this attachment in the hammer drill chuck;
- weld the cut piece to the tube.
The simplest version is ready for use in work. If you do not use the base from an old hammer drill, you will need to grind a seat from a rod for the tool chuck or for the adapter you are using.
In addition to the manual model, you can make similar to a stationary drilling rig, possible variant which is shown in the photo below.
To provide power to a homemade pit drill, you will need to purchase or make your own extension cord.
The operation of the created device is shown in the video.
Manufacturing of the cutting part
The following are used as knives:
- drives from circular saws suitable diameter;
- ready-made augers from factory motorized drills or agricultural machinery;
- a metal sheet from which circles of the required diameter are cut, sharpening them and bending them as required.
The cutting part can be made removable (with a bolted connection) or non-removable (welded to the rod). Both options are shown in the photos below.
Cutting part design must meet the following parameters:
- be larger in diameter (5 mm is enough) than this parameter for the holes being created;
- the angle between the blades needs to be 25-30 degrees;
- The front (cutting) part of the knives should be sharpened at an angle of 45°-60°.
It is advisable to make the tip of the drill from a drill designed for drilling metal, so that the tool penetrates the soil mass more easily.
At its core, converting a hammer drill into a vibrator or earth drill consists of manufacturing an attachment that is appropriate in functionality and size. Difficulties can only arise if you independently prepare a seat for a cartridge or adapter on the rods. In general, the production of the considered options will not require much time and effort.
Our Russian Kulibins can do everything, so a homemade ice drill is not a problem for us, if only the task had been set.
First, let’s decide what manufacturing process we have ahead of us, because every thing can be:
- make from scratch;
- modify;
- retool.
Today's editorial assignment obliges us to talk about making an ice drill with our own hands from scratch and modifying existing models with gasoline engines using a gearbox.
What won't we talk about?
In this material you will not read about converting manual ice augers into electric ones by connecting a screwdriver to them. There will be no description of this process, since there is no actual do-it-yourself manufacturing here, but rather the connection of three parts: a screw, an adapter and a drill together.
Manufacturing from scratch
It’s scary to even begin to describe this complex process. Without metalworking, turning, welding and milling abilities and skills, it is simply unrealistic to make an ice screw with your own hands. For craftsmen, this is probably not very difficult, so let’s get started.
To describe the manufacturing process, we have selected several models:
- spatula;
- annular;
- frame;
- screw
They have one thing in common - the upper part with handles, or the brace. Therefore, first we will try to make it.
Even this is a rather complicated process for an uninitiated person, judge for yourself:
- We select a pipe of suitable diameter.
- On the ground or floor we draw out the bends of our brace.
- We pour dry sand into the pipe and plug it with plugs so that it does not spill out. If you bend without sand, the metal may be damaged.
- We bend the pipe using a gas torch or blowtorch.
- We weld a bracket to the bottom of the rotor to connect it to the auger.
- We drill holes on the handle like on a factory Barnaul drill.
- We sand and paint the workpiece.
- We buy a repair kit for the Tonar ice auger in the store.
- We strengthen the upper and middle handles from the kit in the prepared holes.
The rotator is ready, the most difficult task remains - manufacturing the lower part of the mechanism.
Spatula
This homemade ice screw is easier than others to make. A cutting part cut from a steel plate is simply welded onto the lower pipe. It is slightly bent in the form of a spatula, one edge of which is sharpened with sandpaper.
Although such a drill can make a hole in ice, and it is cheap and easy to manufacture, it still has plenty of disadvantages:
- gets dull quickly;
- the absence of an auger forces you to frequently scoop out the sludge;
- slowly cuts ice;
- difficult to rotate.
Annular
At the base of such a drill there is a ring with knives and an attached frame. At the top, the frame is connected to the pipe, and the pipe to the brace. The steel strip is twisted into a spiral and point-fixed to the frame. It turns out to be a completely workable model.
Frame
This DIY ice screw is also easy to make. Let us describe this process in detail:
- We weld a sharp tip into the pipe for centering on ice.
- In the lower part, we weld steel rods to the pipe on both sides at an angle of 30 degrees.
- At the bottom we connect them with a strip with an axis made of a pipe. You should end up with two triangles, the largest angle of which is approximately eighty degrees.
- We drill holes in the plates and fasten the knives using bolts and nuts.
- We adjust the attack angles of the knives using additional pads made of metal plates and washers of different thicknesses.
The sludge from the holes made by an ice auger of this design will also have to be scooped out using a scoop.
Screw
This cannot be completely done at home. If someone thinks that the whole problem is with the auger, then this is not so. The main part of such a mechanism is the base for the knives. It can only be made by specialists in workshops.
Let's skip the process of creating this part and describe the rest of the process:
- We weld a part to the top of the pipe to connect it to the brace.
- We also attach a seat for knives at the bottom for welding.
- From sheet metal cut circles.
- We cut them to the center from one edge and bend them in the form of an auger blade.
- Having bent a sufficient number of blanks, we weld them to the pipe.
- We sand and paint the resulting product.
- We connect both parts of the ice screw into one.
- We screw the knives.
Motorization modification
In this part of our story we will talk about converting a trimmer or chainsaw into an ice drill. The main issues that arise during this work are the manufacture of the adapter and the selection of the gearbox.
An ice drill from a new type of chainsaw, such as those produced by Stihl, Hoogsvarna or Chinese comrades, also requires the manufacture of an additional ergonomic handle. Our old friendship does not require such alteration.
Converting a trimmer into an ice screw is most suitable for models with a folding shaft. An adapter for connecting such a mechanism to a screw is the easiest to make.
Each model of chainsaw or trimmer requires its own modification, so there is no one universal manufacturing recipe. It is best to find an experienced craftsman and come to him with your tool and together make a decision and draw a diagram for manufacturing the required adapter.
No less important for winter fishing is the gearbox for the ice auger. With its help, the rotation parameters of the shafts are changed, reducing or increasing the speed. This greatly affects the quality and speed of drilling holes.
If the adapter is specially machined, then the gearbox is selected from some operating mechanism, for example, from a roller conveyor.
An important task is right choice auger for an ice drill, it is desirable that it coincides in the direction of rotation with that of a gasoline tool.
It is important to make an ice drill from a chainsaw carefully, taking into account the slightest nuances, because the alteration is very painstaking and expensive, and ready product will be used for a long time. It is important to ensure that the finished tool is easy to repair and maintain, and that the parts are accessible and interchangeable.
The modern market is saturated various kinds construction tools and devices. Take, for example, a hole drill: today you can easily find a device whose cost is quite affordable, and the declared characteristics completely satisfy the buyer. It would seem that there is nothing simpler: buy and use. But you shouldn’t always rush into such an acquisition. The fact is that budget equipment in practice does not always meet the needs of the buyer, or is even not at all capable of performing the functions assigned to it: the drill is in no hurry to enter the ground even with strong pressure, engine speed drops due to heavy load, etc.
Buy a powerful and expensive device for a small volume of construction or gardening work– not always advisable. Renting is also not a cheap pleasure. Therefore, craftsmen strive to use the equipment they already have at their disposal to create compact drilling rigs.
Earth drill from a drill
In most cases, a mechanized hole drill is power plant (powerful drill or gasoline engine), which is connected to a conventional hand drill using a simple mechanical drive. You can make a drill yourself.
DIY drill bit.
You can find a ready-made serial drill for sale.
skyle User FORUMHOUSE
Many people say that they simply bought such an auger and secured it to it a powerful low-speed electric drill.
Engine characteristics
Recommendations regarding the number of revolutions of the power plant and its other characteristics deserve separate consideration. Let's start with the fact that the power plant can be connected to the drill either directly or through an additional gearbox. Everyone determines the need to use a gearbox for themselves. As practice shows, if the rated power of the drill is 2 kW, then there is no need to use a gearbox (especially if the installation does not have a special frame and you have to hold it with your hands during operation).
jumper_at_home User FORUMHOUSE
At first a gearbox was planned, but after field tests With the “drill – auger” scheme, it was decided to abandon the gearbox. The moment is such that it does not notice the operator at all (if you drill with your hands).
The power indicator - 2 kW - was not taken by chance. These are the drills most often used by our forum participants in the manufacture of mechanized hole drills.
Tri.Dr.E User FORUMHOUSE
Have construction experience columnar foundation with a grillage. I used a 2 kW drill and an auger designed for a hole diameter of 30 cm (the diameter of the drill is somewhere around 29.3 cm). For more deep drilling I used an extension cord from a regular steel pipe. The soil in my place is not sugar: earth, then clay, then some kind of lens with beach sand, then again clay with sand, and then blue clay (at a depth - 1.8 - 1.9 m).
In order to make holes of the required depth in the ground, the user had to build a compact drilling rig (with a frame, winch and other accessories).
But now we are talking about the power of the power unit, and from the description presented it is easy to understand what a drill with a rated power of 2 kW (even without a gearbox) is capable of.
A little theory
If we consider the relationship between the power of the drill (or gasoline engine) and torque on the drill shaft, it is determined by the following relationship:
- N – power (W).
- M – torque (Nm).
- n – number of revolutions (rpm).
- 9549 – special coefficient.
Theoretically, the torque on the working shaft of such an installation at a speed of 500 rpm should be 38 Nm (64 Nm at 300 rpm). But to calculate torque, it is always necessary to take into account losses, which are determined by the efficiency of the device. The thing is that most power tool manufacturers indicate only the power consumption of their devices, and the output power (on the working shaft) is 1/3...1/4 less than the consumed power. Accordingly, the torque is less. A 2 kW drill at 300 rpm will create a torque on the spindle that is not 64 Nm, but approximately 48 Nm.
Choosing power unit For your pit drill, you can consider devices with a power consumption of less than 2 kW. But then you will have to seriously think about introducing a reduction gear into the design of the drilling rig.
uvl77 User FORUMHOUSE
Regarding the gearbox: a gearbox is good because it allows you to proportionally change the speed and torque without changing the power. That is, by reducing the number of revolutions through the gearbox, we proportionally increase the torque. And power in this case remains a generalized characteristic (constant).
Based on the torque created by a 2 kW drill (without an additional gearbox), you can choose a suitable device for your hole drill. In other words, knowing the power of the drill, the number of revolutions of its spindle and the gear ratio of the gearbox used, you can calculate the value of torque that you will receive at the output of the power plant. But it should be understood that the speed of the drill cannot be greatly reduced.
uvl77 User FORUMHOUSE
The optimal speed during drilling is from 60...100 to 200...300 rpm. Modedepends on the type of soil, drilling method, type of drill bits, well diameter, etc.
The above quote mentions drilling methods. There are two of them: continuous drilling and drilling with constant soil removal. For continuous drilling, the rig must provide high torque.
During drilling with constant soil removal, an auger, drilled into the soil to a certain depth, rises to the surface. In this case, the loosened soil located on the working blades of the auger is also removed out.
The operation is repeated until the drilling rig reaches the specified depth. The process is labor-intensive, but does not require large torques.
As we have already said, when choosing a power unit for a drilling rig, it is better to focus on a low-speed drill with a power of 2 kW (that is, the torque that it transmits to the working shaft). Judging by numerous reviews FORUMHOUSE users, these devices have managed to prove themselves well. The power of gasoline engines must also correspond to the specified indicator.
Gearboxes for pit drills and their varieties
The assembly of any mechanism in most cases is characterized by the use of improvised materials, devices and components that have been lying idle for a long time because there was no worthy use for them. The experience of our users suggests that a mechanical reduction gear can be made from a wide variety of parts: from spare parts for an old moped, from a simple chain or worm gear, from a suitable gearbox of unknown origin, accidentally lying around on an old shelf in the garage, etc.
When equipping a drilling rig with a gearbox, the main thing is not to forget about the optimal speed of the drill and the fact that it is necessary to ensure sufficient torque on its working shaft.
Mechanic020 User FORUMHOUSE
I had a broken moped lying around, and I took the rear gearbox from it. I sawed off the gearbox with a turbine (the back part of the aluminum housing with the gearbox), then secured it through a gear transmission This gearbox is powered by an electric motor from an old electric saw with a power of 2 kW. The engine with gearbox gave a ratio of 13:1 (the output turned out to be approximately 300 rpm).
About the chain drive: having a certain amount of ingenuity, you can, without making much effort, build a completely reliable hole drill with sufficient power. The presented idea is not new, and many people successfully apply it in practice (if necessary).
jumper_at_home User FORUMHOUSE
There is no gearbox, although it was planned to make it from the VAZ 2101 timing chain and its sprockets. The gear ratio is 1:2. Tests have shown that it is not needed. Maybe use it on very hard soils, but we don’t have those.
The use of the above mechanisms requires non-standard approach to the assembly of the drilling rig. If you have a small serial gearbox (or the opportunity to purchase it inexpensively), then the task becomes much easier. Here, for example, is a photo of a gearbox posted by user melomandk.
Melomandk User FORUMHOUSE
I found such a gearbox. But the gear ratio is large - equal to or even slightly more than 1:40. Dimensions (according to the body) – about 15 x 15 cm.
As it turned out, the device has quite suitable parameters.
di griz User FORUMHOUSE
My hole drill is based on just such a gearbox. So far I'm very pleased. The engine is an angle grinder (3000 output rpm). The power of the grinder is 2 kW. I didn’t try to drill into clay, but I did take a hole drill into hard compacted earth with inclusions of crushed stone and rotten roots. The diameter of the auger is 160 mm, the knives on it are homemade - made from springs.
bed
If there is a lot of work, if you need to drill deeply, and it is very difficult to hold the installation in your hands, then the existing equipment can be secured in a special frame.
Design homemade beds, just like with mechanical reduction gears, can be very diverse. But there are design elements that are used in the vast majority of cases.
Lifting mechanism
A chain drive installed inside can be used as a lifting mechanism B-pillar. Raising and lowering is carried out either using an additional electric motor or using a handle (as in the photo from the user jumper_at_home).
jumper_at_home User FORUMHOUSE
The maximum depth was 1.8 m (auger + extension). There was no need to go deeper. Homemade winch - 2 gears and a chain from a motorcycle.
In order for the plate with the main electric motor to move freely along the vertical pipe, four rollers can be installed on the carriage.
Another lift design involves the use steel cable and winches with an additional electric motor.
Mechanic020 User FORUMHOUSE
By square pipe The main electric motor of the drill moves up and down. It moves thanks to a winch (which I already had). This winch is needed to pull the drill with soil out of the well.
For comfort Mechanic020 made a remote control that controls the winch and rotation of the drill during operation.
The drill, together with the soil adhering to it, can create quite large loads on the winch. On great depth it will work on the principle of a piston, creating a vacuum underneath and aggravating the situation when rising upward. Therefore, the more powerful the winch used, the better.
DmitryEvg User FORUMHOUSE
My winch is designed for 250 kg (500 through the chain hoist). Power – 1 kW.
Bottom support for bed
The lower support of the frame can be equipped with two wheels (for convenient movement within construction site). If everything is done correctly, the installation will be transferred from the transport position to the working position by simply tilting the bed.
It is advisable to install adjusting screws on the supporting elements of the frame, which will help you adjust the drill in accordance with the vertical level before starting work.
Materials for the manufacture of the frame are selected for reasons of strength. Not everyone can independently perform complex structural calculations, but anyone can benefit from the experience of the participants of our portal.
Yes, user Tri.Dr.E I made a frame from a corner 50*50*5. The vertical supports and the upper crossbar are made of two corners of the specified size fastened together.
User jumper_at_home put different things into the design of the frame metallic profile with a wall thickness of at least 3 mm. The platform for the power plant was made by him from a steel sheet 10 mm thick.
And here is a photo of the installation that was created by the user PwrWW“from what was” (as he himself says).
PwrWW User FORUMHOUSE
The hardest thing was to find two smooth, solid three-meter pipes with a diameter of 60 mm. If they didn't exist, I would buy them profile pipe by 80 or 100 mm. Below I used a piece of 80 channel and a corner from scrap metal. Also among the scrap I found 4 U-shaped plates of suitable length.
Ideally, the carriage should be made in such a way that the drill operator can stand on it if necessary. It is especially important to comply with this condition on hard soils.
jumper_at_home User FORUMHOUSE
Here's what was used to protect the drill from turning: a steel stop angle - 6 mm, screwed to the hole for the handle, which is on the drill body. Everything is bolted together with sufficiently flat surfaces. If you want it even more securely, provide a clamp for the seat groove located on the end of the drill.
Mechanical drive
The design of the mechanical drive connecting the drill or other motor to the working shaft of the earth drill is not particularly complex. To create it, an adapter is enough, which is inserted into the drill chuck (Morse taper, etc.) and a cylindrical bushing, one end is welded to the adapter with bark, and the other is put on the drill shaft. In order to increase the depth of the hole being drilled, removable elbows made of the same material as the drill rod can be inserted between the drill and the drill.
In order to prevent damage when the working element jams, the drive and the drill should be connected using a special protective pin. The pin is made of metal rod - 4...8 mm. It is better to test the installation with a stud that has minimum diameter(4 mm).
Almost a pro User FORUMHOUSE
Imagine if your drill hits a stone and jams. I use a 4mm nail as a shear pin and it has never been cut off. But if an obstacle is encountered, it doesn’t give too much away.
Homemade drill
As we have already said, the working part of the installation (drill) can be purchased at a specialized store, but it is quite possible to make it yourself. Here, for example, homemade drill with removable blades.
To make it, we need a thick-walled pipe of suitable diameter (30 mm), as well as material for the blades and for their base. The bases to which the blades will be screwed can be made of thick metal sheet(6...10 mm). The blades themselves should be made of high-strength spring steel (Article 65G). If you need a garden hole drill of small diameter, then you can use ordinary springs from a truck.
To make blades, you can use circular saw blades.
The diameter of the drill should be 5 mm larger than the diameter of the holes being drilled.
We present to your attention a sketch drawing of the product.
By dropping the top handle, we get exactly what we need.
Design homemade drill must meet the following parameters:
- The angle between the cutting blades (between the blades) can vary from 25° to 30°.
- The front edge of the blade is sharpened at an angle of 45°...60°.
- It is advisable to weld a thick metal drill to the lower end of the drill, which will make it easier for the installation to penetrate dense soil.
How garden auger secure it in the drill.
Electric drill for earthworks successfully used in cases where it is necessary, for example, to drill a hole for piles, make a trench or recess for mounting fence posts, drill a hole for planting a tree or shrub, etc.
Brief description of the device and equipment advantages
By design, an electric drill for excavation work is an electric motor that has two handles, as well as a clamping mechanism used for clamping. This tool is most often made in the form of an auger. It is worth noting that the nozzles are removable and can be of different diameters, which allows you to adjust the size of the hole that will be drilled. It is also worth noting that there is a conditional division of drills into types, depending on their purpose. There are gardening, earthing and piling tools.
An electric drill for excavation work is a rarity among people with suburban areas, despite the fact that it has some advantages. If you compare it with manual type, then, of course, the plus is that the main rotational force occurs due to the electric motor, and not human forces.
If you compare the device with a gasoline unit, the advantages include silent operation, environmental friendliness and readiness for work (you don’t have to start it like a gasoline unit).
Application of equipment
As mentioned earlier, one of the greatest benefits In terms of using the drill, it is easy to cope with the arrangement of recesses for piles. Of course, you can do this with a manual type of unit, but an electric drill for excavation work will cope with this task much faster. In addition, the presence of small stones or roots inside the soil will greatly complicate digging a hole if it is done manually; this is not a hindrance for an electric motor.
Another convenience of using the equipment is that it is more compact than a conventional drill, and therefore its operation in places with limited space is most acceptable. Small dimensions and high functionality of the unit are its main positive traits. It is also worth adding that, in comparison with gasoline models, the weight electric drill smaller, which makes it easier to work with.
Models and disadvantage
Large models of motorized earth drills are also used for digging wells, for example. Types with a smaller diameter nozzle are used for home use(planting plants, installing poles, etc.). However, it is worth noting that the line of models also includes multifunctional types that have removable attachments. This makes it possible to use them depending on the needs, as well as the quality and type of soil with which you will have to work.
Naturally, the main disadvantage of the drill is that its operation in places where there is no electricity is impossible. Yes, when purchasing a device, there is usually a battery included, but charging only lasts for a short period of time.
Operating principle of the unit
An electric drill is an electric motor and a shaft having a type. When using such equipment, the hole in the ground will have smooth edges and a clear auger diameter. The direct drilling process is carried out due to the fact that the auger has a very sharp tip, as well as pointed helical blades. When the equipment starts, the electric motor begins to rotate, transmitting its force to the shaft to which the auger is attached. This is how drilling occurs.
Favorable cost of the device
The price of an electric drill for excavation work is also one of its advantages. The approximate cost of the device is 1,000 rubles. It is important to note here that for this amount you purchase the device itself and the basic attachment included in the kit. And then you can purchase separately augers of different diameters, if necessary. In this way, you can greatly increase the functionality of the equipment at a minimal cost. Making the right choice will also help you save money.
If you plan to use the device in the garden, that is, for garden needs, then a power of 1.5 kW will be enough. If you plan to drill holes for construction needs ( pile foundation), then you will need a device with a power of 2 kW or more. If there is such a need, then electric units can also be used for drilling ice.
Reviews of the electric drill for excavation work are mostly positive. Among the main qualities that buyers highlight are ease of use, light weight, quality of the device and its relatively low cost.
There are also negative reviews. However, most often they are left by people who did not understand the rules of its operation and purchased, for example, a less powerful model than was required for working with a certain type of soil. Naturally, the result was bad.
From this we can conclude that it is imperative to examine the soil with which you will have to work, decide for what type of work the tool is being purchased, and only then buy it. It is also recommended to purchase products only from trusted companies. It’s better to pay a little more, but buy a better quality item, than to pay less and buy the equipment again in a year.
Motor drills from Hitachi
Hitachi electric drills for excavation work are quite high-quality and reliable products. The manufacturer of this equipment is Japan. However, it is worth noting that the range of products is not very large. Of the electric models, only garden types are available. This means that electric models with high power the manufacturer does not produce. High power indicators are only petrol models from this brand. Today, three main qualities can be distinguished, thanks to which Hitachi products have become quite popular.
- The assembly quality of the units is very high.
- Coefficient useful action these devices are also high.
- The service life of the devices is quite long.
Product selection and operation
When buying an earth drill, it is best to always go to a specialized store where they can help you with your choice. However, there are a few guidelines that you should always follow. Three parameters should always be taken into account Special attention- power, screw head size and engine size (if it is a gasoline model).
Quite often when working with this tool, it happens that the drill buries itself in the ground. For this reason, almost all new models are equipped with a safety system that turns off the engine if this happens. This system protects equipment from damage. To avoid such a shutdown, it is necessary to periodically stop work and clean the auger of dirt.
It is also designed to protect the unit from accidental starting or to protect a person in case of loss of control of the product.
To create a well or carry out other types of excavation work, not only large-scale drilling rigs operated by specialists can be used. On a small scale and with enough time, simpler equipment can be used.
One of these tools is an earth drill - a device that comes in many variations and varieties. For gardening and dacha work it is most in demand and is also used in various industries.
1 Design and purpose of the drill
An excavation drill is a device that is used to create cylindrical holes in the soil (to be more precise, its upper layers are drilled). It consists of a rod (rod), handle and drive. At the bottom of the rod there is a guide tip and a helical blade, mainly made in the form of cutters or cutters.
All drills can be divided into two categories: devices that require the use of manual force, and automatic drills equipped with motors.
2 Types of drills
The classification of portable drilling devices, depending on the type of drive, is carried out into three groups: electric drill, hydraulic earth drill, and gasoline devices.
Gasoline drills are the most extensive category of equipment. A gasoline earth drill (also known as a motor drill) is the best option for domestic use, if the capabilities of a conventional hand drill are not enough. It easily penetrates soil layers up to 2-3 meters deep; in fact, the depth of the well is limited only by the size of the rod extension.
In addition to devices for economic use, there is a category of heavy gas drills for construction: these are fairly large mechanisms that are controlled by two operators. They are equipped with engines high power, which allow you to make wells in problematic soils: hard soil, sandy soil, or soil with a high content of rock inclusions.
The main feature of such devices is that all engines are equipped with a gearbox, through which the engine torque is transmitted to the rock-breaking element. Depending on the class of the device, two types of gearboxes can be installed on it: for heavy drills - worm gears, for light drills - coaxial gearboxes. The fuel usually used is gasoline mixed with 92 oil.
The design of the motor drill consists of the following elements:
- Drive: for heavy ones - 3-4 stroke engines, for light ones - two-stroke;
- Handle for holding;
- Control elements: power adjustment, speed switching;
- Augers are usually used as a forage destruction element.
The cost of devices for household use starts from 10 thousand rubles. When purchasing, you should first of all pay attention to such manufacturers as Hitachi, Husqvarna, Stihl - these are well-established companies whose products have an optimal price-performance ratio.
There is also a large number of companies where possible. In general, renting is great option, if you only need the device for a few days. Today, rent, on average in the market, costs about 1000 rubles per day, plus you will need to pay a deposit of 5-10 thousand.
Electric drills are a less popular option compared to the previous one, but still common and well-known.
The only structural difference between such mechanisms and gas drills is the electric motor - all other elements are identical. The use of an electric drive adds both advantages and certain disadvantages to the device.
The indisputable advantages of electric drills include their noiselessness, since, unlike a gasoline engine, electric drive practically inaudible.
The disadvantages are the following: electric motors have relatively less power than gasoline ones, that is, for the same money you can buy a more powerful gas drill than a device with an electric motor.
For domestic use this is not particularly important, but in the case of professional use this factor can become critical. It is also worth remembering that the device must be connected to the network, which somewhat reduces its portability, since any batteries have the unpleasant feature of running out at the most inopportune moment.
The cost of high-quality electric drills starts from 15 thousand. The main manufacturers are Makita, Mora, Hitachi. Rent – from 1000 rubles per day.
Hydraulic drills are a category of serious industrial installations. The main advantage of such drills over gasoline and electrical devices– reverse function, which makes it possible to drill both clockwise and counterclockwise. Thanks to it, it is much easier to pass through problematic soil layers.
In addition, hydraulic motors, in comparison with electric drives, are 2-3 times smaller in size and much lighter in weight, which makes a hydraulic earth drill more convenient to use.
But even with same sizes drive, a hydraulic earth drill will always have more power. Hydraulic motors provide the most flexible control of shaft speed, which allows you to select the optimal drilling mode for different soil layers.
The only significant drawback of drills with hydraulic motors is the “tenderness” of the drive. It is always necessary to maintain its cleanliness, since mechanical contamination inside the drive significantly reduces the service life of the device.
A hydraulic earth drill, in comparison with analogues, is several times more expensive. So, the average price is 30-35 thousand. Renting hydraulic drills will cost you from 1.5 to 2 thousand per day. It is also possible to rent a hydraulic drill with operators, in which case you will pay for one hour of time. This rental will cost you about 1 thousand rubles per hour.
2.1 How to make a drill with your own hands?
If you do not want to purchase something that you can make yourself, or you are not satisfied with the expensive rental of equipment, then you can try to make a mechanical earth drill with your own hands.
To create a homemade drill you need the following tools:
- Welding machine;
- Grinder (with metal circles);
- Small repair equipment - hammer, metal brush, pliers, sandpaper.
It is also necessary to acquire the materials from which the structure will be made:
- For the rod - fittings 150 cm long, 15 mm in diameter. (adjust the height of the drill depending on your height);
- For the handle - fittings, or a metal pipe 40 centimeters long, with a diameter of 20 mm;
- For a cutter - a disk from a circular saw, or a sheet of metal 3-4 mm thick;
- For the “needle” (guide element) – a metal drill with a diameter of 15 mm.
Homemade hand drill for excavation work is made as follows:
- We manufacture drill cutters (blades). If you take a disk from a circular saw to do this, you can save significant amount time and effort.
- To make a cutter from such a disk, cut it in half, and on each half grind off the blades with which the disk was originally equipped. There is no need to sharpen the edges of the cutters at first, so as not to cut yourself during the welding process - the sharpness is imparted after all the connections are completed.
- If you use ordinary metal, make approximate markings on the sheet and cut out two blanks with a grinder. Their size depends on the purpose for which the manual excavation drill will be used - for, or a well for planting trees.
- If there is no clear goal, then the best option “for all occasions” are cutters from 15 to 20 mm.
- We prepare the fittings for the rod. It is not recommended to make a rod from two small pieces of reinforcement welded together, since sooner or later, due to soil resistance, their connection will disintegrate.
- A metal drill is welded to the end of the rod; it acts as a homemade guide element (the optimal length of the drill is from 7 to 10 centimeters)
- We weld cutters to the junction of the reinforcement and the drill on the rod. This should be done so that there is an angle of 30 degrees between them.
- We take an angle grinder and put it on abrasive wheel on metal, and sharpen the edges of the cutters: remove the upper and lower layers of metal along the outer edges of the semicircles.
- We make a handle: a piece of reinforcement, or a steel pipe, is welded perpendicular to the top of the rod.
You can also make a slightly improved design - a homemade hand drill for excavation work with an extendable rod. To do this, a bolt is welded to the drill handle, and a nut is welded to the top of the rod. A piece is used as an extension cord metal pipe, on the edges of which a bolt and nut are welded, identical in size to those welded to the handle and rod.