The vast majority of grinding operations in everyday life are carried out manually or using a drill. This is understandable. Buying expensive specialized equipment for use at home, where grinding operations, as a rule, vary greatly in type, is not always advisable.
There are various devices for manual and mechanized grinding. All of them can be divided into two main types.
- Tools that directly perform the processing of the part itself are hand-held devices, which include grinding blocks (pads, whetstones) and grinding attachments on a drill or grinder, which are all kinds of support plates and drums.
- Devices that ensure the required position of the grinding tool relative to the part - guides, supporting surfaces, etc.
TO separate species This includes devices for dust removal, which, due to the abundance and harmfulness of grinding dust, should also not be neglected.
Hand sanding tools
When working manually, to ensure the necessary processing parameters, a variety of grinding devices are used.To the simplest hand-held devices relate grinding pads, which may be called: sanding blocks, sanding bars, etc. Depending on their shape, they can be used to process both flat and shaped surfaces.
The sanding block consists of three main elements - a body with a working surface on which the sandpaper is stretched, a clamping mechanism that secures the sandpaper to the sandpaper, and a handle to which force is applied during sanding. The latter may be absent as an independent element; in this case, its role is played by the body. The clamping mechanism can also be replaced with other elements that perform its function, for example, Velcro.
There are many types of branded pads available, differing from each other in shape and method of attaching the sandpaper. The body is most often made of plastic, the working surface of which is covered soft material, helping to smooth out irregularities.
The simplest pads for grinding are easy to make yourself. Wood is best suited for this. It is advisable to paste over or cover the working surface with a soft material, such as felt.
Most simple design The bar consists of two pieces of board or chipboard, tightened together with screws - so that the skin covers the bottom piece, and its ends are clamped between the parts.
If you put in a little more effort, you can make a more functional block in which the skin will be clamped with a wing nut, which is much faster and more convenient than using screws for this.
For processing large surfaces, if for some reason a power tool is not suitable, it is best to make your own grinding “plane”. Its possible design is shown in the figure below. It is so simple that it does not need explanation. The dimensions of the device are determined by specific operating conditions - the parameters of the plane being processed and the physical data of the worker.
Sanding plane
For grinding edges located at an angle of strictly 90° to the adjacent surface, a device that allows you to ensure the required right angle will be useful. It is shown schematically; the specific implementation can be anything.
Device for sanding edges (end view): 1 - base, 2 - handle, 3 - side stop, 4 - stiffener, 5 - sanding paper, 6 - strip of felt.
One of the main tasks when making homemade bars is reliable fastening skins for them. In addition to mechanical clamps (using screws, nuts, etc.) in homemade sanding stones You can use other methods of attaching sandpaper.
You can simply nail it at the ends with small nails. The method is easy to implement, but inconvenient if you have to change the skin frequently.
An acceptable way to secure sandpaper is by gluing it. Glues are suitable for this, making it relatively easy to separate the skin from the base when replacing it.
Sometimes they use wedges to secure the skins. Cuts are made in the block, into which the edges of the skin are tucked and wooden wedges are driven. Cuts and wedges can be of different sizes.
Accessories for drills and grinders
Manual grinding requires a lot of effort and time. For significant volumes of grinding work, it is advisable to use a power tool - a drill or grinder, in particular. To turn the latter into grinding tool, they must be equipped with a suitable grinding attachment - a support plate or drum.
Sanding pads. These attachments are a disk made of plastic or rubber to which a circle of sandpaper is attached. Plastic plates have a soft or not very soft layer between the base and Velcro, for better adhesion of the skin to the surface being treated. Drill plates have a shank in the form of a rod; for angle grinders, they have a thread for screwing them onto the output shaft of the angle grinder. The grinding attachment for an angle grinder can be converted into a drill attachment by screwing an adapter with a shank into it.
But due to the rigidity of the grinder attachment, a strictly vertical position of the drill relative to the plane when grinding is practically impossible. When using a rigid plate (it’s easier to work with a flexible one), any slight tilt leads to the edge of the plate biting into the workpiece and the drill trying to escape from your hands, which leads to an increase in tilt and a deeper bite into the edge of the circle. This leads to clearly visible depressions on the treated surface. Therefore, only grinding attachments that can compensate for the tilt of the drill are suitable for the drill: either rubber, or with a thick soft layer between the plastic base and Velcro, or with a movable pin attachment.
Hard plates are only suitable for use with a fixed drill, such as the one shown below.
If you can’t find a suitable drill attachment for grinding on sale, and you have a hard attachment, then you can make a thick one with your own hands soft layer between the plastic base and the Velcro.
The Velcro is carefully cut off with a stationery (construction) knife, and a large round sponge for washing the body is glued as a soft layer. When the sponge is compressed during the grinding process, the symmetry may be broken (the Velcro with the sandpaper moves in one direction), but at drill speeds (3000 rpm) this is not critical; it will not work with an angle grinder.
Combined attachments for grinding on a drill are produced, in which the shank can be in two positions relative to the working surface - be rigidly locked with it or have a degree of freedom (unlocked). In the latter case, the working surface of the tool has the ability to adapt to the inclination of the drill, resulting in processing without the formation of indentations. But the price of such devices is close to the price of orbital sanders.
To make the shank movable, a cone nut is twisted (in the photo below with a similar device, it is twisted to the chuck).
The skin is attached to the plates using Velcro. This method of fastening requires special sandpaper, on which a reciprocal layer of Velcro is applied.
Sanding drums. Sanding drums for a drill are a cylinder with a shank; sanding paper in the form of an endless belt (a strip of sandpaper glued together at the ends) or a strip of sandpaper with free ends is attached to the cylinder. Unlike the support plate, in which the working surface is located perpendicular to the axis of rotation, in drums it is located parallel to it.
To ensure that the skin sits tightly on the drums, the latter have different tension mechanisms. According to the principle of operation, there are two of them - increasing the outer diameter of the drum (used for an endless belt) and tension abrasive tape by using special mechanism(used for open tapes). An increase in the diameter of the drums is being implemented different ways- by pumping them up (for pneumatic models), by compressing them in the axial direction (for drums with rubber elements). The tension of an open tape can be done in different ways. This is most often done by using a rotating screw that tightens the ends of the sandpaper. Below are several options for drums with different types of skin tension.
A drum for endless sanding belts can be made by placing rubber pads between wooden discs. When the axle bolt is tightened, the rubber is crushed, expanding in the radial direction and securely fixing the sanding paper placed on the drum.
Grinding attachments using a drill. Grinding parts with a plate or drum while holding a drill in your hands is not as easy as it might seem to someone who has never done it himself. In many cases more high-quality surface can be achieved by securing the instrument motionless. Especially when processing small parts, which are easy to manipulate when holding them in your hands. There are grinding attachments that allow you to secure a power tool, making it completely or partially stationary.
You can use proprietary drill guides, which are intended primarily for drilling, but can also be successfully used for grinding - mainly with a drum. You can work with them in two ways. By fixing the drill in the guide motionless and moving the workpiece relative to the tool (photo A below), or by moving the guides together with the drill relative to the workpiece, pressing the supporting surface of the guides against the latter (photo B below). In both cases, the tilt of the drum is eliminated, which ensures surface treatment at the desired angle.
You can independently make a simple sanding device from two boards, which allows you to ensure that the angle of the sanded edge in relation to the main surface is exactly 90°.
Removing dust. When sanding wood, a lot of dust is generated, which not only creates inconvenience, but is also harmful to health if inhaled. Dust must be dealt with. The easiest way to do this is to suck it out with a vacuum cleaner, placing the hose closer to the sanding area.
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Homemade grinding drum on a drill.
When sanding wooden products, it is necessary to process not only straight planes, but also curly edges. For this an indispensable device is the sanding drum. You can buy such a drum or make it yourself. And for work use a hand drill or a stationary one drilling machine.
Curly edges of joinery parts can be processed in another way, manual router With copy cutter according to the template. This gives a gain in time and quality, but only during processing large quantity details. If you have single products, then there is no point in making them for each template. Moreover, to make a template, you will again need a sanding drum; without it you cannot make an accurate template.
As I already said, you can buy a grinding drum; they are sold in different diameters and qualities. But working with such a device simply by holding the drill suspended is not very comfortable, and most importantly, it is impossible to obtain accurate and high-quality processing.
One of the adaptation options would be to make a small table for a drill. The drill itself is attached to the work table vertically. More from hand drill can be done .
The table can be assembled from scraps of MDF, thick plywood or chipboard (laminate). All parts are attached to each other with self-tapping screws. The product is assembled in the form of a box with a tabletop. A hole is drilled in the top cover to the diameter of the drum. The bottom edge of the sandpaper should be below the tabletop line. You can also make it from plywood.
You can easily attach legs to this frame, then you will have a free-standing tool. In the version you see in the photo, the box is attached to the desktop.
Almost any drill will do, but for serious work it is advisable to use a more powerful one. The drill is attached to the desktop frame using clamps. I already wrote on the site about horizontal installation drills, in the article.
Homemade sanding drum.
You can not only buy a drum, but also make it yourself. It's actually not that difficult if you have a wood lathe. You can also process the drum on a drilling machine, but it will be more difficult.
I use a metal drum for work; the skin is secured in it with a metal pin with a slot. The drum is installed on a stationary milling machine. Such a part can be turned using special equipment, see article. But such a part can be made using simpler means.
To assemble the device, we need a vertical axis; a bolt or pin with a diameter of 10/12 mm is suitable for this. and length 100-150 mm. . On this axis we place pieces of plywood, previously cut with a jigsaw with a small margin in diameter. In the center of all parts we drill a hole corresponding to the diameter of the bolt. Lubricate the plywood fragments with glue and tighten the nut. Then it is advisable to grind the drum lathe on wood, this will result in a more precise and even surface.
Another option for assembling a homemade drum. Only two plywood parts are placed on the axle, upper and lower, and a piece of hard foam is clamped between them. Simple packaging foam will not work, it is too loose. The product in the photo is assembled exactly like this.
How to glue the skin.
Stores sell sandpapers with a self-adhesive inner surface, this is the most convenient option. If there is no such skin, then you can glue a regular one. You need to glue it with an overlap, but you can’t join it on the abrasive, you’ll end up with a bump that will hit the part. To apply the sticker correctly, you need to mark the overlap at the lower end of the sandpaper, soak it in a solvent and clean off the abrasive.
Don't forget that sandpaper is consumables, and sooner or later it will have to be torn off and a new one glued on. To make this process easier, without damaging the drum itself, you must first stick thick paper and some sandpaper on it. I tried attaching the skin with a stapler, but it didn't work very well. The staples wear out quickly and also scratch the workpiece. Still the best option, this is the use of self-adhesive skin.
The diameter of the drum can be different, it depends on what parts you are going to process. But just remember, the smaller the diameter, the faster the skin will wear through. Most suitable option diameter from 60 mm. up to 100 mm. . Most often, the drum is used for processing parts up to 50 mm thick. , so the working height of the drum can be 70-120 mm. .
Sanding various wooden parts is a necessity faced by everyone who wants to make repairs in their home, or with my own hands create some decorative element.
Of course, you can sand small parts with regular sandpaper, but to cope with a larger volume of work, you should change the sandpaper to grinding machine. It will help to significantly save time and quickly bring the part into the appropriate form. One of these useful devices is also a drum sander.
Classification and structure
Grinding devices drum type belong to calibration class machines. This type of grinding machine is most often used for working on wood, but it can also be used to process other materials.
A cylindrical grinding wheel (drum) allows you to calibrate boards and slats of various lengths and configurations. The workpiece can also be made from different materials: Chipboard, veneer, etc.
Structure of the grinding apparatus:
- Cylindrical grinding drum.
- Feeding device.
- Dust removal device.
- Working surface.
- Drum speed converter.
- The motor that drives the grinding cylinder.
- Bed for fastening key components of the machine.
- Drum height regulator.
- Operator protection device.
The main structural elements of a drum machine are listed here. Depending on the specific model of the device and the specifics of its purpose, the configuration may vary slightly.
Main device models
Drum-type machines can be purchased ready-to-use. There are several of the most popular and widespread brands for the production of these devices. It makes sense to present their individual models.
JET Company. The American company specializes in the production of modern machines of the most various types, including drums. Its product line includes several grinding machines with a cylindrical working wheel.
- JET DDS-225. This machine is one of the most powerful devices of this type in the manufacturer’s line. It is used both in home workshops and in small industries. Characteristic– double grinding drum. The cost of this machine is appropriate - from 150,000 rubles.
- JET 10-20 PLUS. Compact grinding device that allows you to process up to 50 centimeters of surfaces. Perfect for small home workshops. The cost does not exceed 25 thousand rubles.
- JET 16-23 PLUS. It is considered one of the most versatile machines of its type. It is used for processing building materials, kitchen appliances and even musical instruments. Most often, such a machine is used in small furniture production enterprises.
Corvette 57. A Chinese-made machine, which is quite different high quality assembly and wide functionality. The machine is designed for grinding flat surfaces wooden blanks and turning parts to the required sizes. The machine has a fairly affordable price - 24 thousand rubles.
In addition to these machines, there are also good options from German manufacturers. It is worth noting that, depending on the price, German companies also offer corresponding sets of capabilities for their devices. The minimum amount for which you can purchase a grinding machine in the basic configuration is 15-16 thousand rubles.
Video: step by step production drum grinding machine.
How to make a grinding machine with your own hands?
If it is not possible to shell out a fairly round sum for decent option drum sander, then you should try to make it yourself. For a person who is well versed in mechanics, this is not too much difficult task. In addition, this way you will be able to save significant financial resources.
In order to assemble a drum sanding machine at home, you need to acquire the following parts:
- Grinding drum. A cylindrical device can be created on the basis of “garbage” building materials. For these purposes, they often use even pieces wooden blocks, which are evenly attached to a special metal axis using glue. In this case, special attention should be paid to the tight fit of these bars to each other. The drum can also be made on the basis of a polyvinyl chloride pipe with a diameter of up to 10 cm, which is placed on an iron rod with a diameter of 1.5-2 cm. It should be slightly shorter in length than the rod itself. We insert special plugs with holes for the rod into the ends of the pipe. We recommend securing the plugs with screws. We thread and secure the rod. We wrap a thick layer of rubber onto the pipe, onto which the sandpaper will be attached.
- Engine. It is best to use a working engine from an old one washing machine(like pulleys, belts, etc.). Optimal power motor should be from 200 to 300 W. It is desirable that the motor is also asynchronous and single-phase. RPM level – 2000-3000.
- Frame. The design should be simple and convenient. It is best for the machine body to consist of two side panels, a spacer and the table itself. Special attention You should pay attention to the strength and rigidity of the work table, which should not be deformed when the workpiece being processed is pressed onto the drum. The desktop must consist of a base and a moving part.
Once the main parts of the machine have been assembled separately, you can begin the final assembly of the entire machine. First of all, you should attach the motor to the bottom of the machine body in place of the pre-drilled holes. The grinding drum is installed in the upper part of the housing and attached to two bearings, which are located on the side walls of the housing.
Then we attach special pulleys to the drum and motor and tighten the drive belt. After all the necessary preparations with the electrical wires, we fasten the desktop with special bolts that will hold it at the required level. Experts strongly recommend mounting on the machine also protective cover.
It is worth noting that self-creation A drum sander also does not come without certain costs. First of all, this concerns your time, but the machine will cost you less than a factory one only if you have a working motor. Without an engine and certain skills to create cheap analogue a branded machine is almost impossible.
Every person who has had to deal with wood processing knows the importance of final sanding of the finished product.
This also applies to holders for various agricultural implements, and wooden furniture, And building elements(doors, windows, window sills) and any other wood products. Sanding allows you to remove burrs, as well as make the wood smooth and shiny.
Certainly, grinding work can be done using a regular piece of sandpaper or a special attachment on a drill or angle grinder. But this takes a lot of time and does not ensure the ideal shape of the product. Therefore, various grinding machines have been created for such purposes.
Most often in living conditions and in small-scale production they use a drum grinding machine, a device, the principle of operation and the possibility of making it with your own hands we will consider in this publication.
1 Drum sander - device, principle of operation
The drum grinder gets its name from the rotating cylinder - the drum, which, in fact, performs the grinding function.
In addition to the grinding itself, which allows you to remove burrs and give wooden surface ideal smoothness, such devices also perform a calibration function. Grinder drum or any other type allows you to adjust wooden part under required sizes accurate to the millimeter.
This machine is used for finishing grinding and calibration of flat and long wood products, such as panel surfaces made of wood, chipboard, fiberboard, etc., doors, window sills, etc. Using such a device for processing cylindrical parts impossible.
1.1 Main components
Drum sanding machine appearance and does not have a set of basic components fundamental differences from any other machines.
The basic package of such a device includes the following elements:
- The bed is the part of any machine to which all other elements are attached.
- The engine performs the function of driving the moving parts of the machine. Most often, drum sanders for wood are equipped with two motors. One rotates the drum itself according to the principle of a drill, the second sets the feed belt in motion.
- A sanding planing drum on which the sanding belt is wound and attached. It is necessarily equipped with a tension mechanism, with the help of which, when the tape is heated, it is automatically tensioned. A rotating drum with a sanding belt directly imparts smoothness to the wood product.
- Feed drum with conveyor belt. This machine part woodworking performs independent wiring wooden product on the grinding drum. Thanks to the flat surface of the conveyor and the same distance from the belt to the drum along its entire plane, the product is evenly adjusted to the required dimensions.
- A mechanism that regulates the speed of the conveyor belt.
- Sanding drum fixing posts equipped with a ruler. A ruler and screw fixation on the stands allow you to set the required thickness to which the product should be adjusted.
- The protective casing covers the grinding drum to prevent injury during operation.
- Machine for removing dust and chips.
1.2 Operating principle
This grinding machine works on the principle of a drill. Its grinding part is rotated by a motor at high speed - an average of 2000 rpm.
The grinder may have different weight, different sizes, length of the sanding drum, length and width of the conveyor belt, maximum and minimum height drum settings, etc.
Choice technical parameters the device depends on the functions for which it is purchased.
After installing the machine, you need to calibrate the grinding drum to avoid eccentric rotation and unnecessary vibrations. In addition, an uncentered drum will not be able to clean the products evenly.
To do this, we take two beams of the same height, install them on the feeding belt, lower the drum onto them and fix them in this position. Next, we set the height of the mechanism, depending on the size of the part being sanded.
We turn on the installation. For the first pass it is better to set the minimum speed of the feed belt, for the final – maximum – 3 meters per minute.
The grinding drum should gain momentum, similar to the principle of a drill. After that we put wooden beam to be processed onto the conveyor belt. The passage of the timber under the drum occurs automatically.
We repeat this action required quantity times until our part arrives the required form and will not acquire the specified dimensions.
If the sides of the product have different size, the height of the drum must be adjusted for each change in parameters.
2 Types of machines
If we talk about grinding machines in general, their classification is based on two parameters: scope and functions performed.
By area of application, machines are:
- cylindrical grinding machines. Designed for processing parts with a round cross-section;
- surface grinding. Their task is to grind flat parts. The drum machine also belongs to this type;
- internal grinding. With the help of such mechanisms, the internal surfaces of the product are processed. Drills are often used for this purpose;
- specialized. Designed for processing complex surfaces - threads, grooves, teeth, etc.
Different machines can perform different functions:
- trimming and stripping;
- sharpening;
- grinding.
2.1 Making a drum machine with your own hands
It is difficult to make a drum sander for untreated wood with your own hands, but it is quite possible.
For this we take a list necessary elements and looking for suitable material and spare parts.
And so, we need:
- Bed. For these purposes, any stable workbench or table to which you can screw other elements of the machine is suitable. It is better if the frame is metal. If you have to use wooden structure, it needs to be qualitatively strengthened with your own hands.
- Electric motor with a power of 200-300 W. The speed should be 1500-2000 rpm. It's better if it's single-phase asynchronous motor. For these purposes, a mechanism from an old washing machine (in this case we also take pulleys with a belt), drills, grinders, etc. is suitable.
- Sanding drum for wood. This is probably the most important and most difficult part of the machine, on which the quality of the work performed will depend. We’ll talk about how and what to make a homemade grinding drum with your own hands later.
- Drum stands. The device that fixes the drum and regulates its height can be made of wooden beams. The mechanism that regulates the height can be made with your own hands in two versions. First option - through holes on the racks through which the drum will be attached. This option is simpler, but it allows you to work only with a fixed adjustment step of about 1 cm. The second option is long screws installed perpendicular to the drum. In this case, by pressing the screws we can raise the grinding device, and by releasing it we can lower it. In the second option, it is possible to adjust the height with millimeter precision.
We will not make a conveyor belt with our own hands. This is possible, but it is not necessary. Submit to homemade machines, as a rule, is carried out manually.
2.2 Making a drum
Before we begin making the drum itself, we need to clearly understand what functions our machine will perform. The point is that what smaller size cylinder, the easier and faster it will be rotated by the engine from the drill.
To make a sanding drum we need a piece of anything that has cylindrical shape, the required length and diameter. This could be a wooden beam with round, PVC pipe, metal pipe and much more.
We will consider as material PVC pipe for making a drum with your own hands.
- Take the required size piece plastic pipe. We will also need a metal pin that acts as an axis, wooden or plastic plugs that match in diameter with internal diameter pipes, screws, rubber, glue.
- We take plugs and make holes in them corresponding in diameter to the thickness of the rod.
- The holes in the plugs must be strictly in the center. The slightest eccentricity of the drum will lead to improper operation of the machine.
- We fit the plugs tightly into the pipe and fix them with self-tapping screws.
- Insert the pin into the holes in the plugs. The axis should protrude 2-3 cm from the cylinder on each side. It is this that will serve as an attachment to the adjustment posts.
- We glue rubber onto the drum. To her It will be easier to attach the sanding belt.
2.3 Assembling the machine
To assemble the machine you need:
- Install the stands on the bed.
- Attach the drum to them so that its lifting height can be adjusted.
- Connect the motor to the drum using a belt or chain drive.
- You can start working.
2.4 Homemade drum sander (video)
Hello to all DIY lovers, every DIYer who to some extent works with wood probably has a separate device dedicated to sanding, be it on sanding machine or manually, but sometimes it happens that the part being processed has round shape Or it needs to be sanded inside. In this article I will tell you how the author did grinding drums with your own hands, with the help of which Finishing work will not be a burden.
To make this homemade product we will need the following materials:
*Wooden planks, their thickness may vary, for an average drum it is 15-20mm.
*Steel rod or ready-made bolt.
*Washers and nuts.
*Sandpaper.
*Carpentry and PVA glue.
*Crowns or so-called ring drills.
*Erasers for banknotes.
First step. In order to start work, we need to decide on the dimensions of the drum, after the dimensions are selected, we select a crown for that same size. Using a bit installed in a drilling machine, we drill out 5 round blanks; you can change this number depending on the desired height and the thickness of the blanks themselves.
Second step. Armed with PVA glue, glue the adjacent surfaces of the finished round blanks and clamp them to each other using a vice, maintain gluing accuracy so that one bar does not extend beyond the edges of the other. At this stage, the strength properties of PVA glue will be sufficient.
Wait for it to dry completely, then fasten the bolt in the middle drilled hole and tighten on both sides with nuts, having previously placed a washer on both sides.
Third step. This stage requires a grinding machine or sandpaper; the first method will be easier and faster. We clamp the bolt with the finished drum into a cordless drill and grind it with coarse sandpaper, gradually moving to a finer grain size, thereby giving smooth surface to our drum.
Fourth step. The final stage of assembly includes cleaning the drums from dust that was formed in the previous stage, as well as covering the surface with wood glue for gluing the grinding element. Using ordinary scissors, cut out a piece of sandpaper pre-marked to size and glue it to the adhesive surface of the drum, joint to joint, and so that it does not protrude while the glue dries, secure it temporarily with rubber bands for banknotes.
After that. Once the glue has completely dried, you can use the homemade product for its intended purpose, try the drums in action.