Wireless protection against water leaks. Aquaguard, Neptune or Gidrolock? Comparison of leakage protection systems

Water is life. If it is in the tap, or in the heating radiator, this is good. And if it is on the floor of your apartment, or on the ceiling of your neighbor below, this is a big financial and moral problem. Of course, it is necessary to regularly check the water supply and heating system for corrosion or cracks in plastic pipes. However, a water breakthrough usually occurs suddenly, without any sign of impending danger. It’s good if at this moment you are at home and not sleeping. But, according to the law of meanness, leaks occur at night, or when you are not at home.

Simple rules for dealing with this problem (especially for old housing stock, with worn-out networks):

Inspect regularly water pipes and heating system elements for defects, spot rust, tight connections, etc.
When leaving home, close the entrance valve on the riser.
Outside heating season close the taps on the radiators (if any).
Use a leakage protection system.

We will consider the last item on the list in more detail.

How to signal a water leak

The solution to the problem came into everyday life from the yachting world. Since the ship's lower tier rooms (especially holds) are located below the waterline, water regularly accumulates in them. The consequences are clear, the question is how to deal with it. It is irrational to assign a separate sailor on watch for control. Then who will give the command to turn on the sump pump?

There are effective tandems: a water presence sensor and an automatic pump. As soon as the sensor detects that the hold is full, the pump motor turns on and pumping occurs.

The water sensor is nothing more than a regular float on a hinge connected to the pump switch. When the water level rises by 1–2 cm, the alarm and the sump pump motor are triggered at the same time.

Comfortable? Yes. Safely? Of course. However, such a system is unlikely to be suitable for a residential building.

Firstly, if the water reaches a level of 1–2 cm over the entire area of the room, it will cross the threshold front door will run to landing(not to mention the neighbors below).
Secondly, a bilge pump is completely unnecessary, since the cause of the breakthrough must be immediately found and localized.
Thirdly, the float system for rooms with a flat floor is ineffective (unlike watercraft with a keeled bottom). By the time the “required” level for operation is reached, the house will fall apart from dampness.

Therefore, a more sensitive alarm system against leaks is needed. This is a question of sensors, and the executive part comes in two types:

1. Alarm only. It can be light, sound, or even connected to a GSM network. In this case, you will receive a signal on your mobile phone and will be able to remotely call an emergency team.

2. Turning off the water supply (unfortunately, this design does not work with the heating system, only water supply). After the main valve, which supplies water from the riser to the apartment (it does not matter whether it is before or after the meter), an electromagnetic valve is installed. When a signal is sent from the sensor, the water is shut off and further flooding is stopped.

Naturally, the water shut-off system also signals a problem in any of the above ways. These devices are offered in a wide range by plumbing stores. It would seem that, material damage from a flood is potentially higher than the price of peace. However, the majority of citizens live by the principle “until thunder strikes, a man will not cross himself.” And more progressive (and prudent) homeowners make a water leakage sensor with their own hands.

Operating principle of leakage sensors

Speaking about the block diagram, everything is very simple. A certain element fixes the liquid at the point of its placement and sends a signal to the executive module. Which, depending on the settings, can give light or sound signals, and (or) give a command to close the valve.

How the sensors work

We will not consider the float mechanism, since it is not effective at home. Everything is simple there: the base is fixed to the floor, a float is suspended on a hinge, which, when floating, closes the switch contacts. A similar principle (mechanical only) is used in the toilet cistern.

The most commonly used sensor is a contact sensor, which uses the natural ability of water to conduct electrical current.

Of course, this is not a full-fledged switch through which 220 volts passes. A sensitive circuit is connected to two contact plates (see illustration), which detects even a small current. The sensor can be separate (as in the photo above), or built into a common housing. This solution is used on mobile autonomous sensors powered by a battery or accumulator.

If you do not have a smart home system, and water is supplied without any solenoid valves, a simple sensor with an audible alarm can be used as a starting option.

Homemade sensor of the simplest design

Despite its primitiveness, the sensor is quite effective. Home craftsmen are attracted by this model due to the cheap cost of radio components and the ability to assemble it literally “on the knee”.

The base element (VT1) is an NPN transistor of the BC515 series (517, 618 and the like). It supplies power to the buzzer (B1). This is the simplest ready-made buzzer with a built-in generator, which can be purchased for pennies, or removed from some old electrical appliance. The power required is about 9 volts (specifically for this circuit). There are options for 3 or 12 volt batteries. In our case, we use a Krona type battery.

How the scheme works

The secret is in the sensitivity of the collector-base transition. As soon as a minimum current begins to flow through it, the emitter opens and power is supplied to the sound element. A squeak is heard. An LED can be connected in parallel, adding visual signaling.

The signal to open the collector junction is given by the very water whose presence needs to be signaled. Electrodes are made from metal that is not subject to corrosion. These could be two pieces of copper wire, which can simply be tinned. Connection points on the diagram: (Electrodes).

You can assemble such a sensor on a breadboard.

Then the device is placed in a plastic box (or a soap dish), with holes made in the bottom. It is advisable that if water gets in, it does not touch the circuit board. If you want aesthetics, the printed circuit board can be etched.

The disadvantage of such a sensor is different sensitivity to different types water. For example, distillate from a leaking air conditioner may go unnoticed.

Based on the concept: an inexpensive autonomous device, it cannot be integrated into a single security system for your home, even a homemade one.

A more complex circuit, with a sensitivity regulator

The cost of such a scheme is also minimal. Performed on the KT972A transistor.

The operating principle is similar to the previous version, with one difference. The generated signal about the presence of a leak (after opening the emitter junction of the transistor), instead of a signaling device (LED or sound element), is sent to the relay winding. Any low-current device, such as RES 60, will do. The main thing is that the supply voltage of the circuit matches the characteristics of the relay. And from its contacts, information can be sent to the actuator: smart home system, alarm system, GSM transmitter (to a mobile phone), emergency solenoid valve.

An additional advantage of this design is the ability to adjust sensitivity. Using a variable resistor, the collector-base transition current is regulated. You can adjust the response threshold from the appearance of dew or condensation to the full immersion of the sensor (contact plate) in water.

Leak sensor on LM7555 chip

This radio element is an analogue of the LM555 microcircuit, only with lower energy consumption parameters. Information about the presence of moisture comes from the contact pad, indicated in the illustration as a “sensor”:

To increase the response threshold, it is better to make it in the form of a separate plate connected to the main circuit with wires with minimal resistance.

The best option in the photo:

If you don’t want to spend money on buying such a “limit switch,” you can etch it yourself. Just be sure to cover the contact paths with tin to increase corrosion resistance.

As soon as water appears between the tracks, the plate becomes a closed conductor. An electric current begins to flow through the comparator built into the chip. The voltage quickly increases to the operating threshold, and the transistor (which acts as a key) opens. Right part schemes - command-executive. Depending on the execution, the following happens:

Top diagram. The signal on the so-called “buzer” (beeper) is triggered, and the optionally connected LED lights up. There is another use case: several sensors are combined into a single parallel circuit with a common sound alarm, and the LEDs remain on each block. When the sound signal is triggered, you will accurately determine (by the emergency light) which unit has triggered.
Bottom diagram. The signal from the sensor is sent to an emergency solenoid valve located on the water supply riser. In this case, the water is shut off automatically, localizing the problem. If you are not at home at the time of the accident, the flood will not happen, and material losses will be minimal.

Information: Of course, you can also make a shut-off valve with your own hands. However, it is better to purchase this complex device ready-made.

The circuit can be made using a printed circuit board layout that is equally suitable for both LM7555 and LM555. The device is powered by 5 volts.

Important! The power supply must be galvanically isolated from 220 volts in order to dangerous voltage did not fall into a puddle of water during a leak.

In fact, perfect option- using a charger from an old mobile phone.

The cost of such a homemade product does not exceed 50–100 rubles (for the purchase of parts). If you have old components in stock, you can reduce costs to zero.

The case is at your discretion. With such a compact size, finding a suitable box will not be difficult. The main thing is that the distance from the common board to the contact plate of the sensor is no more than 1 meter.

General principles for placing leakage sensors

Any owner of a premises (residential or office) knows where the water supply or heating communications are located. There are not many potential leak points:

shut-off taps, mixers;
couplings, tees (this is especially true propylene pipes, which are connected by soldering);
inlet pipes and flanges of the toilet tank, washing machine or dishwasher, flexible hoses kitchen faucets;
connection points for metering devices (water meters);
heating radiators (can leak both over the entire surface and at the junction with the main line).

Of course, ideally, the sensors should be located precisely under these devices. But then there may be too many of them, even for the DIY option.

In fact, 1-2 sensors per potentially dangerous room are enough. If it is a bathroom or toilet, as a rule, there is an entrance door threshold. In this case, water is collected as if in a pan; the layer can reach 1–2 cm until the liquid spills through the threshold. In this case, the installation location is not critical, the main thing is that the sensor does not interfere with moving around the room.

In the kitchen, sensors are installed on the floor under the sink, behind the washing machine or dishwasher. If a leak occurs, it will first form a puddle in which the alarm will sound.

In other rooms, the device is installed under heating radiators, since water supply pipes are not laid through the bedroom or living room.

It would not be superfluous to install the sensor in a niche through which risers of pipelines and sewers pass.

The most critical points of water breakthrough

With uniform operating pressure, the risk of leakage is minimal. The same applies to mixers and taps, if you open (close) the water smoothly. Weakness pipeline system manifests itself during water hammer:

when closed, the water supply valve to the washing machine creates a pressure that is 2–3 times higher than the nominal value of the water supply system;
the same, but to a lesser extent, applies to the locking fittings of the toilet cistern;
Heating radiators (as well as their connection points to the system) often do not withstand the pressure testing carried out by heating supply companies.

How to properly place sensors

The contact plate should be located as close to the floor surface as possible without touching it. Optimal distance: 2–3 mm. If the contacts are placed directly on the floor, constant false alarms will occur due to condensation. Long distance reduces the effectiveness of protection. 20–30 millimeters of water is already a problem. The sooner the sensor works, the less losses.

reference Information

Regardless of whether the leakage protection system is purchased in a store or made by yourself, you need to know the uniform standards for its operation.

Device classification

By the number of secondary protective devices at the facility (emergency shut-off valves with electromagnetic drive). Leakage sensors should not shut off all water supplies if shut-off systems are distributed among consumers. Only the line on which a leak is detected is localized.
According to the method of submitting information about a water supply (heating system) accident. Local alarm assumes that people are present at the site. Remotely transmitted information is organized taking into account the prompt arrival of the owner or repair team. Otherwise, it is useless.
Notification method: local sound or light alarm (on each sensor), or output of information to a single remote control.
Protection against false positives. Typically, finely tuned sensors perform more efficiently.
Mechanical or electrical protection. An example of mechanics is the “Aqua Stop” system on the supply hoses of washing machines. There is no alarm on such devices, the scope of application is limited. Self-production is impossible.

Conclusion

By spending a little time and a minimum of money, you can protect yourself from serious financial problems associated with a flood in the apartment.

Video on the topic

From this article you will learn what protection systems against leaks and flooding of apartments and houses are, what components they consist of, how leaks are monitored and how emergency situations are prevented, and most importantly, you will be able to find out the cost of such systems.

Hard to imagine modern house without safety devices. Used to protect electrical wiring circuit breakers(automatic), for fire protection - systems fire alarm, against gas leaks - gas alarms, against the penetration of strangers into the home - security alarm systems. Modern heating equipment is also equipped with sensors to ensure safe operation. Most of the above automation tools have long been heard and are increasingly becoming part of everyday life.

Despite all the variety of security systems, water leakage protection devices are still not in mass demand. Perhaps it's a lack of information. Perhaps in price. However, those who have encountered the problem of flooding of neighbors will certainly understand the economic justification for purchasing such systems.

The principle of operation of water leakage protection systems

Sensors of the water control system are installed in those places where leakage is most likely and to which water supply communications are connected (bathroom, toilet, kitchen, etc.). When flooding occurs, the sensor transmits a signal to the controller, which in turn indicates an accident and shuts off the shut-off valves installed at the water supply entry into the room. Leakage monitoring is carried out continuously, even in the event of a temporary lack of power supply, which allows the system to operate more efficiently.

How effective are water control systems?

Shut-off valves in such systems are often installed at the water supply inlet, and such a system may contain several shut-off devices. This allows you to control leakage, for example, at the cold and hot water inlets. In order for the sensor to operate, it must literally be filled with water. The sensitive element in the sensor is located at a height of approximately two millimeters from the floor level, the conclusion is that small puddles cannot be avoided.

Such a system will not be able to actively protect you from:

flooding through sewerage;
flooding by neighbors;
breakthrough of the heating system (both in the case of centralized heating and in the case of autonomous heating);
if the leak occurs in the storage tank fed water supply network, for example, a boiler (in this case, shutting off the water supply to the storage tank will certainly reduce the pressure, but until all the water drains, the leak will not stop).

The only thing such a system can do in such situations is to notify the owner of an accident. In cases with a centralized heating system, there is, of course, the option of installing electric taps on each battery (2 pieces), but this is expensive and still will not protect you from leaks along the heating riser. Therefore, when deciding to purchase a water leakage protection system, it is worth realistically assessing its capabilities.

And what does the leakage protection system consist of?

The leakage protection system consists of three main elements.

Controller

The controller is the heart of the system. Therefore, it is its characteristics that are worth paying attention to Special attention when choosing a leakage protection system. Let's take a closer look at the characteristics of the controllers and their capabilities.

Controllers differ in the type of supply voltage (from 5 to 220 V). From the point of view of electrical safety, preference should be given to low-voltage devices, since the equipment will be operated in an environment with high humidity.

The most important characteristic for the controller is its autonomy, since even with a temporary power outage, the system must be in working order. To fulfill this requirement, manufacturers provide the ability to operate the system from a source uninterruptible power supply or from batteries. In some versions, control systems can be completely autonomous and powered exclusively by batteries for several years.

Number of supported locking devices. Before purchasing a system, you need to decide which inputs and engineering systems It would be advisable to install controlled shut-off valves.
Availability of relay outputs, including high-ampere ones. This will allow the controller to communicate with third party devices, e.g. security remote control. The presence of high-amp outputs will protect powerful equipment. For example, turn off the boiler, ensure dry running protection for the pump, turn off the heated floor system, etc.
The most important function is to monitor the integrity of the line of sensors and actuators of shut-off valves. This function allows you to monitor the health of the wiring and significantly increases the reliability of the system.
A useful function of the controller is also cleaning taps. When using ball valves with servo drives as shut-off valves in such systems, it is necessary to understand that if such a valve is not periodically turned, then the risk that at the right time due to clogging it will not be able to shut off the water supply increases significantly. Therefore, it is very important that the controller is equipped with a function for periodic preventive opening and closing of shut-off valves.
The controllers also differ in their display. The simplest versions reflect the fact of flooding, but do not indicate exactly where it occurred. More advanced versions allow you to display a triggered sensor or a group of sensors, and can also display which sensor has failed. This greatly facilitates work in the event of a line failure. Indicating the position of shut-off valves is also useful.
When operating sensors in rooms with high humidity, it is important to be able to adjust their sensitivity. This will avoid false positives.
Depending on the type of interaction with sensors, controllers can be wired or wireless (using a radio signal to communicate with sensors). If the installation of a flood protection system is carried out in a renovated room, it is worth paying attention to the second option.
For those who are used to turning off the water when leaving home, the ability to control the controller using additional devices will be useful. For this purpose, some systems provide remote buttons that allow you to block all protected communications with one click. It is convenient to mount such a button, for example, near the front door. There are wired and radio buttons.
It would be useful to be able to manually control the system, for example, if the sensor was accidentally flooded.

These are not all the useful functions that controllers can perform in water leakage protection systems, but they are the most important.

Sensors

Sensors should be placed in areas where water leakage is most likely. To reduce the likelihood of false alarms (for example, as a result of splashes), the top of the sensor is closed decorative cover, and the sensitive element in it is approximately one to two millimeters away from the floor surface. For the sensor to operate, water must enter its lower part.

The structure of the leakage sensor is quite simple and is based on the fact that water is a conductor of electric current. It is a board with two contact tracks. Water entering the sensor closes them, and a signal about flooding is sent to the controller. We can say that there is absolutely nothing to break in such a sensor and it is quite reliable. However high requirements are presented specifically to the quality of the coating of the tracks on the board. They should not oxidize.

There are two types of leakage sensors:

wired - do not consume electricity in standby mode;
wireless sensors are powered by batteries and transmit a signal to the controller via radio signals. Therefore, the batteries in such devices will have to be changed periodically.

Wired sensors allow you to build an extensive network, connecting one device to another and combining them into groups. The number of sensors in such a system is essentially unlimited.

The possibility of permanently mounting the sensor would not be superfluous. This will prevent the sensors from moving while cleaning and will prevent children from doing so.

Shut-off valves

Shut-off valves in leakage protection systems are used in two types:

Ball Valves with servo drive;
solenoid valves.

At first glance, the solenoid valve is a more reliable device, since it is capable of instantly shutting off the water in the event of an accident. However, it is necessary to understand that in order to maintain a stationary operating mode of the solenoid valve (open/closed), a constant power supply is required. This is unacceptable in case autonomous power supply controller, since the autonomous power supply may be completely discharged, which will lead to renewed flooding. Also, when the valve operates abruptly at high flow rates, a water hammer occurs.

Therefore, more and more often, manufacturers in leakage protection systems give preference to shut-off devices with a servo drive. No electricity is required to maintain the faucet valve in a stationary position. It is only needed when moving it. IN modern devices high-quality gearboxes are used that provide high torque, with low cost electrical power. The design of the shut-off device differs from a conventional ball valve, providing easier movement of the valve. However, the closing time of such a device is at least 3 seconds.

Basically, taps in such systems come in three sizes: Dy 15, Dy 20 and Dy 25.

Some cranes can also operate manually. This will help to tear the damper out of place if it becomes sour and does not move with the help of the servomotor.

Features of installing a water leakage protection system

When installing sensors in hard to reach places(for example, under washing machine) it is advisable to use non-stationary sensors. This will make it easy to remove and dry the sensor if it gets flooded.

The most important question is where to place the shut-off valves. The valves of the leakage protection system must be installed at the pipe entrance so as to leave a minimum number of collapsible connections, which are potential sources of leakage, before it. Despite the fact that the valve with a servo drive is itself a shut-off device, it is necessary to provide a manual valve in front of it. It is also advisable to provide a detachable connection on the pipeline in order to be able to easily dismantle the valve with a servo drive. It is advisable to install the crane so that you can easily reach the servo drive. If the direction of movement of the medium is indicated on the system tap, this requirement must be observed.

Despite the fact that manufacturers position their fittings as ultra-reliable, do not forget that iron still sometimes breaks. Therefore, it would not be superfluous to provide a bypass water supply line, cut off by a conventional tap, parallel to the line on which the servo-driven tap is installed. If the protection system malfunctions, you will not be left without water.

Most systems are typesetting. That is, it is not necessary to purchase a ready-made system. You can select the necessary components directly to suit your requirements, without overpaying for unnecessary components.

Table. Leakage protection systems

The product's name	Controller	Shut-off valves			Sensors		Cost, rub.
		Type	Dy	Pieces included	Type	Pieces included
"Aquaguard Classic 1*15"	"Classic" (5-9 V)	Electric crane "Aquawatch"	1/2"	1	Wired	2	7990
"Aquaguard Classic 2*15"	"Classic" (5-9 V)	Electric crane "Aquawatch"	1/2"	2	Wired	2	10990
"Aquaguard Expert 2*15"	"Expert" (5-9 V)	Electric crane "Aquawatch"	1/2"	2	Wired	4	14990
"Aquaguard Expert 2*20"	"Expert" (5-9 V)	Electric crane "Aquawatch"	3/4"	2	Wired	4	15490
"Aquaguard Expert 1*25 PRO"	"Expert PRO" (5-9 V)	Electric crane "Aquawatch"	1"	1	Wired	4	12990
"Aquaguard Expert Radio 2*15"	"Expert" (5-9 V)	Electric crane "Aquawatch"	1/2"	2	Wired	2	18490
					Wireless	2
"Aquaguard Expert Radio 2*20"	"Expert" (5-9 V)	Electric crane "Aquawatch"	3/4"	2	Wired	2	19490
					Wireless	2
"Aquawatch Expert Radio 1*25 PRO"	"Expert" (5-9 V)	Electric crane "Aquawatch"	1"	1	Wired	2	16490
					Wireless	2
Neptune Base 1/2, 3/4	Neptune Base (220 V)	JW electric crane	1/2"	1	Wired	2	10667
			3/4"	1
Neptune Buggatti Base 1/2, 3/4	Neptune Base (220 V)	Buggatti electric crane	1/2"	1	Wired	2	13337
			3/4"	1
Neptune Mini 1/2, 3/4	Neptune Mini 2N (220 V)	JW electric crane	1/2"	1	Wired	3	10311
			3/4"	1
Neptune Buggatti ProW 1/2, 3/4	Neptune ProW (12/220 V)	Buggatti electric crane	1/2"	1	Wired	2	18253
			3/4"	1
Neptun HR-RV 10 JW1/2, 3/4	Neptun HR-RV(12 V)	JW electric crane	1/2"	1	Wireless	2	15849
			3/4"	1
Neptune ProW + JW 1/2, 3/4	Neptune ProW+ (12V)	JW electric crane	1/2"	1	Wireless	2	22315
			3/4"	1

A properly selected and properly installed water leakage protection system can save you from troubles with home flooding. However, it is necessary to soberly assess the capabilities of such a system and still monitor the state of communications in the house.

Plumbing emergencies - horrible dream any home owner. Whether in a house or an apartment, it is equally unpleasant and costly. Only in the case of an apartment does the need for conversations with neighbors below and the costs of eliminating their damages add up. But here the situation is better in the sense that even if you are not at home, the neighbors below will turn off the water as soon as they notice signs of a flood. In the case of a private house, equipment that threatens to leak is usually located in rarely visited places - in basements, specially equipped pits. While the owner decides to visit the equipment, he can come to the pool. To avoid such situations, protection against water leaks is necessary. Although this equipment is not cheap, it is becoming increasingly popular. The costs of purchasing and installing it are several times less than the losses that a flood could cause.

What is anti-flood and how does protection against water leaks work?

The anti-flood system consists of several elements: water presence sensors, electrically controlled taps or valves, and a control unit. Sensors for monitoring the presence of water are placed in places where leaks are most likely. Electric taps are placed on risers with water in key places in the water supply and heating systems - in order to minimize the amount of spilled water in the event of an accident. Crane drives and sensors are connected to the monitoring and control unit (controller). It processes signals from sensors and, in the event of an emergency signal, supplies power to the taps. They operate by blocking the flow of water/coolant. Here, in a nutshell, is how water leak protection works.

These systems are installed both for water supply - hot and cold, and for heating. After all, an accident in the heating system is probably even worse than in a water supply system - hotter water causes more damage and can also cause serious burns. In general, for flood protection to be effective, you need to think carefully about the installation locations of sensors and taps.

Where to place the sensors

Since protection against water leaks is designed to protect against flooding, sensors must be placed in all places where water is most likely to appear. It often happens that the system operates with a delay precisely because of incorrectly selected sensor locations. By the time the water reached the sensor, a lot of it spilled out. Based on the experience of the owners, we can recommend the following places for installing water leakage sensors:

When installing water leakage sensors, try to position them so that water hits them first. For example, to control a faucet in the kitchen, you need to place the sensor not under the cabinet, but in the cabinet - under the siphon or somewhere in that area. If something happens to the supply to the faucet, the water will first be in the cabinet and only then flow under it.

If you need to monitor leaks in household appliances—a washing machine, a dishwasher—place sensors under the appliances. Not next to, but directly next to the connection point of the drain hose.

Where to install taps/valves with electric drive

Installing faucets is not easy. Specific installation locations depend on the system design. If this small apartment with one or two risers - cold and hot water - everything is simple. We close off the outlets and that’s it. In more complex systems you have to think about where to install electric cranes.

In apartments

If the water supply is centralized, the system’s leakage valves are placed at the entrance to the apartment/house. It is much better if the taps are located before the meter and filter. But operational services may disagree with this arrangement. They usually require that the electric faucet be located after the meter. In this case, if there is a leak, the connection between the meter and the filter always remains under pressure. It will be impossible to eliminate leaks at these points. You can insist on your point, but you have to prove your point of view.

Advice! Before installing a leakage protection system, contact your management company and find out whether there will be problems when sealing meters if electric taps are installed in front of them.

In some layouts, the apartment may have four risers - two cold and two warm water. In this case, there are two solutions - a more correct one and a more economical one. That's right - install two modules, each of which will serve its own zone. This is more convenient, since an accident will occur only on one of the risers/devices and it is unreasonable to disconnect the opposite part. But two modules mean double costs. To save money, you can install one control unit that will turn off the taps for 4 risers. But in this case, do not forget that you will have to run the wires through the entire apartment.

In the case of heating, too, not everything is simple. Most high-rise buildings have vertical wiring. This is when there is a riser in each (or almost every) room and one or two radiators are powered from it. It turns out that for each outlet it is necessary to install at least one tap - for supply. But then the water contained in the radiator and pipes will leak out. This, of course, is not so much, but sometimes a couple of liters is enough for the neighbors below to have a stain on the ceiling. On the other hand, installing two taps on each radiator is too expensive.

In a private house

To prevent the pump from pumping water in the event of an accident, it is necessary to use a water leakage protection controller with a power relay. If power is supplied to the pump through the contacts of this relay, simultaneously with the signal to close the ball valves or valves, the power to the pump will be turned off. Why not just turn off the power to the pump? Because in this case, all the water that is in the system can spill into the resulting gap. And this is usually a lot.

To understand in which places in the water supply system of a private home it is necessary to install taps to prevent water leaks, you need to study the diagram. Most often, shut-off valves with electric drives are installed after the pumping station and on the boiler.

Heating is a little more complicated. You should not block the flow of coolant if it is impossible to immediately extinguish the boiler. That is, in systems with solid fuel boilers Water leakage control can only be installed if it does not block the circulation of the coolant. If there is a small circulation circuit, you can install valves so that this small circuit is running while the rest of the system is turned off. If a heat accumulator is installed in the system, it is necessary to install the taps so that water does not spill out of it. These are large-volume containers - at least 500 liters, and usually many times more. If all the liquid spills out, it won't seem like much.

In heating systems with automated boilers, taps may block circulation. If the water leakage protection works and blocks the circulation, the boiler will stop due to overheating. This is not a completely normal situation, but it is not an emergency either.

Some technical points

Wired sensors usually come with 2 meter cables. Electric ball valves are also sold with the same cable length. This is not always enough. You can increase the length using a cable recommended by the manufacturer. Brands are usually indicated in the instruction manual. Only upon purchase. Unfortunately, very often the actual diameter is much smaller than the declared one.

for wired sensors, a shielded twisted pair with a core cross-section of at least 0.35 mm² is suitable;
for taps - power cable in two-layer insulation with a core cross-section of at least 0.75 mm².

It is advisable to make the connection serviceable. That is, if you are laying wires in a wall or floor, the connection must be made in a junction box. - any, reliable (soldering, contactors of any type since the equipment is low-current). It is better to lay wires in walls or floors in pipes. In this case, it will be possible to replace the damaged cable without opening the gate.

Protection against water leaks: parameters and selection criteria

Deciding on the number of sensors and shut-off valves is not so difficult, especially since many systems easily allow you to expand the control area. It is only important not to exceed the maximum allowable amount of equipment. But choosing a manufacturer is much more difficult - you can’t change it. Below we present the most popular systems on Russian market: , " " And " ".

Nutrition

First, let's look at how power is supplied to different parts of the flood protection system:

The voltage on the control unit must be constant.
Electrically driven faucets are powered only for the period of operation - maximum - 2 minutes (Hydrolock).
For wired type sensors - only for the period of status polling (a very short period of time).
Wireless sensors operate on batteries.

Water leakage protection can operate on 220V, 12V and 4.5V. Generally speaking, the safest supply is 12V or lower.

Power types

Some systems are designed in such a way that the control unit is powered by 220 V, and a safe voltage of 12 V or less is supplied to the electric taps and sensors. In other options, 220 V can be supplied to the taps (some of the Neptune options). Voltage is supplied briefly - only at the moment when it is necessary to turn off the water. This occurs after an accident is detected and periodically to check and maintain the functionality of the system. The rest of the time the taps are de-energized. Which option suits you best is up to you to decide.

Also pay attention to the presence of a backup power source. If you have your own redundant power supply system (batteries, generator), this parameter can be omitted. Otherwise, having a backup power source is highly desirable. Moreover, we need to look at how long the equipment can operate in autonomous mode. In this sense, systems operating from 12 V are much more practical: if you wish, you can install a battery with suitable parameters and thereby extend the system’s operation in offline mode. Although, some systems (Hydrolock, for example) on backup power (rechargeable batteries) can operate for up to a year. During this time the electricity will definitely be turned on...

Electric cranes: which ones are better?

Let’s say right away that there is protection against water leaks based on valves and ball valves. Ball valves are more reliable. They are more expensive, but they work many times more reliably. When choosing, take the one with ball valves that shut off the water, not valves. There are no options.

But ball valves are also different. Here are the requirements they must meet:

Made from brass or of stainless steel. These metals should be used for housings, rods and locking balls. Only in this case will they serve for a long time.
Full bore valves. This means that when open, the cross-section of the valve is no less than the cross-section of the pipe on which it is installed. In this case, they do not interfere with the flow.

Neptune ball valves can be recognized by the presence of a lever that makes it easy to shut off the water manually

All market leaders - Akvastorozh, Gidrolok and Neptune - use only such cranes. They can be produced by different companies, but are made from high quality metal. If the cheaper kits don't specify the material or type of faucet (full bore or not), look elsewhere.

Durability and closing time

We also need to talk about the parameters of electric drives. How reliable and durable they are determines how reliable the protection against water leaks is and how efficient the system is. Therefore, the gearbox and drive gears must be made of durable and reliable material. Most durable material, which can be used here is metal. If we talk about the most well-known systems, the following situation is observed on this point:

In the Hydrolock system, gearboxes and gears are made of metal.
In Aquawatch, the gears are made of metal in the latest versions of the system, the gearbox remains plastic.
Neptune does not cover drive materials.

Another important characteristic is the closing time of ball valves. In theory, the sooner the water supply is shut off in an emergency, the better. Here the undisputed leader is Aquaguard - the ball valves close in 2.5-3 seconds. But this speed is achieved:

installing additional gaskets, which reduces ball friction but increases the risk of leaks;
a small torque, and a small force applied when closing the tap can result in the fact that if a foreign object (sand, scale, etc.) gets in or is overgrown with salts, the tap simply will not close.

Electric ball crane "Aquastorozh Expert-20". Input voltage 4.5 to 5.5 V

Closing force and manual mode

If we talk about the magnitude of torque, the leader here is protection against water leaks Hydrolock. Its electric drives can develop a force of up to 450 kg/m. This is very big indicator, but these parameters are for large-section cranes, which are not used in apartments and houses. Nevertheless, half-inch and inch ones are also very powerful - they can develop a force of up to 100 kg/m. Moreover, the applied force increases in steps - if necessary, it increases from nominal to maximum.

And this is Gidrolok’s signature trick - the crane breaks a pencil... Impressive!

There is one more point: the ability to turn off the electric tap manually. Aquawatch and Hydrolock have parity in this regard: you need to remove the drive by unscrewing several bolts (for Hydrolock - 2, for Aquawatch - 4), then manually turn the tap. Neptune is ahead in this regard: its drives have a lever, by turning which you manually open or close the water. But these faucets are included with the most expensive of the kits.

Neptun Bugatti Pro 12 B 1/2″ faucet with lever on the body. If the drive housing is green, then the power supply is 12 Volts. Taps designed for 220 Volts have a blue drive housing

Features of the operating algorithm

The principle of operation of any protection against water leakage is the same: when an emergency signal appears, it shuts off the water supply and turns on the alarm. In this all systems are similar, but there are certain features that some like and others don’t.

The first feature is related to the processing of signals from sensors and taps. Some systems monitor the integrity of the wires that go to faucets and wired sensors. In addition, if wireless sensors are present, they are polled regularly. This is all great and such systems are more reliable, but the reaction to a “missing” sensor or faulty wire can be different:

on the Hydrolock control panel, the alarm for loss of sensors or faulty taps lights up, but the water does not turn off;
If any of the sensors or taps are lost, the water watchman shuts off the water;
at Neptune, only the response of the sensors is monitored and, based on the results, an alarm lights up without specifying the location.

Here everyone chooses for themselves which option suits them best. Both ways of reacting are imperfect, so there is no single answer.

The second parameter for choosing a leakage protection system is the frequency of checking the functionality of the taps. Since we are far from water best quality, if left idle for a long time, the shut-off ball may become “overgrown” with salts or, as they say, “stick.” To prevent this from happening, the controllers periodically “move” the taps. The frequency varies:

protection against water leaks Gidrolock (Gidrolock) tests once a week;
any Aquaguard controller turns the ball valves once every two weeks;
Some Neptune options do not have this function; there are those that open/close taps once every two weeks.

Some fear that testing the functionality of the faucets will catch them in the shower. Of course, it’s not pleasant to be soaped without water, but none of the owners have ever complained about such cases. So it's not nearly as dangerous as it seems))

Some features of popular systems

In order to somehow highlight their protection against water leaks, manufacturers are trying to improve reliability or come up with other moves. It is impossible to systematize these features, but it is better to know about them when choosing.

Capabilities of one block

U different manufacturers one control unit can control a different number of devices. So it won't hurt to know this.

One Hydrolock controller can serve a large number of wired or wireless sensors (200 and 100 pieces, respectively) and up to 20 ball valves. This is great - at any time you can install additional sensors or install several more cranes, but such a reserve of capacity is not always in demand.
One Akastorozh controller can service up to 12 wired sensors. To connect wireless, you need to install an additional unit (designed for 8 Aquawatch Radio pieces). To increase the number of wired ones, install another module. This modular expansion is more pragmatic.
Neptune has control units of different powers. The most inexpensive and simple ones are designed for 2 or 4 taps, for 5 or 10 wired sensors. But they do not check the functionality of the taps and do not have a backup power source.

As you can see, everyone's approach is different. And these are just the leaders. There are even smaller campaigns and Chinese companies (where would we be without them) that either repeat one of the above plans or combine several.

Additional functions

Additional ones are not always unnecessary. For example, for those who are often on the road, the ability to control cranes from a distance is far from superfluous.

Gidrolok and Akvatorozh have the ability to turn off water remotely. For this purpose, a special button is placed at the front door. Go out for a long time - press and turn off the water. Aquawatch has such a button in two versions: radio and wired. Gidrolok has only wired ones. The Aquastore radio button can be used to determine the “visibility” of the wireless sensor installation location.
Hydrolock, Aquawatch and some Neptune variants can send signals to the dispatch service, security and fire alarm, can be built into the smart home system.
Hydrolock and Akvastorozh check the integrity of the wiring to the taps and their position (some systems, not all). In Hydrolock, the position of the locking ball is controlled by an optical sensor. That is, when checking there is no voltage in the tap. The Aqua Watchman has a contact pair, that is, at the time of testing, voltage is present. Protection against water leaks Neptune also monitors the position of the taps using a contact pair.

The hydrolock can be controlled using a GSM module - via SMS (commands to turn on and off). Also in the form text messages Signals about accidents and “disappearances” of sensors, broken cables to electric taps and malfunctions can be sent to the phone.

Always being aware of the condition of your home is a useful option.

On the issue of reliability: power supply and other issues

Reliable operation does not only depend on the reliability of the cranes and controllers. Much depends on the power supply, on how long each unit can operate autonomously.

Aquawatch and Hydrolock have backup power sources. Both systems shut off the water before the backup power supply is completely discharged. Neptune has batteries only for the last two models of controllers, and then the taps do not close when discharged. The rest - earlier and less expensive models - have a 220 V power supply and no protection.
Neptune's wireless sensors operate at a frequency of 433 kHz. It happens that the control unit “does not see” them through the partitions.
If the batteries in the Gidroloka wireless sensor run out, the alarm on the controller lights up, but the taps do not close. The signal is generated several weeks before the battery is completely discharged, so there is time to change it. In a similar situation, the Aqua Watchman shuts off the water. By the way, the Hydrolock battery is soldered. So changing it is not so easy.
Aquawatch has a lifetime warranty on any sensors.
Neptune has wired sensors that are installed flush with the finishing material.

We looked at all the features of the three most popular manufacturers of water leakage protection systems. In short, the worst thing about Aquawatch is the plastic gearbox on the drive, while Gidrolok has high power systems and, accordingly, price. Neptune - inexpensive systems are powered by 220 V, do not have a backup power source and do not check the functionality of the taps.

Naturally, there are Chinese leakage protection systems, but you should choose them with caution.

The third of which states: a robot must take care of its safety to the extent that this does not contradict the First and Second Laws. Those. one of the tasks smart home- take care of your safety, prevent break-ins, fires, floods, and other damage. Today we will talk about protection against leaks and flooding.

Aquawatch is a system that automatically shuts off the water when flooding is detected. A pipe bursts - water rushes onto the floor, hits the sensor, and the servo drive turns off the taps on the risers. Of course, this will not save you from wet floors - some of the water will still end up on the floor, but the repair will protect you, and at the same time protect the neighbors below from compensation after flooding. Let's take a look, take the Aquaguard system apart and find out if it's that good?

Controller

The whole set is in this box:

The kit is shown on the front, and the operating principle of the system on the side:

There is also a good and clearly written user manual:

The main part of the system looks like this:

Two taps - for cold and hot water, main control unit, flood sensors, external power supply.
Here's a closer look at the main unit (TK03):

The controller is made in a very interesting way - it is assembled as a constructor into which additional extension blocks are inserted. Are 6 wired sensors not enough? Adding a panel, we get 18 sensors. Do we want to turn a regular system into a wireless one? We insert the radio base and connect it to a special connector. Do you need the ability to turn off the heating or the pump when the water is turned off? We connect the panel with power relays. Missing a standard battery pack? We insert another one and extend the autonomous operation of the system for another year (if the system only has wired sensors, then for three years).
The entire system, except for wired sensors, has a 4-year warranty. The sensors have a lifetime warranty. True, they promise free replacement of no more than 3 sensors per user, apparently guided by the consideration “if a person breaks 3 sensors in a row, then the problem is not in the sensors.”
My version has four sensors - two wired and two radio sensors. The system can simultaneously work with both. Maximum number wireless sensors - 8 (2 included), or 20 with an expander panel (TK19). The number of wired sensors is almost unlimited - a chain of up to 100 pieces can be connected to each connector, for a total of as many as 600 pieces.
There is a page on the site that describes all possible components with article numbers - in the future I will list them in parentheses for convenience.
Very interesting solution. Here is the mechanism for connecting the blocks, on one side of the latch:

On the other is a place for the wires that connect the blocks to each other:

Let's sort it out. Although it’s difficult to call it disassembly - we just pull the board out of the slots:

Controller, squeaker (very loud and nasty):

Two 20F ionistors:

And one for 10:

These are the same Nano-UPS :)

But in essence, it’s correct - they store a reserve of energy, which is enough to operate the device and turn off the taps after the batteries are completely empty. In general, if an accident occurs, the system will work and shut off the water even if the batteries are dead. After this, you can still open the taps once with the button if you urgently need water and don’t have time to run for batteries - this point has been thought out, which is nice. But after this the batteries will have to be replaced.
Below on the board there are 14 connectors, one of which is for the battery pack, one for connecting blocks, 6 for wired sensors, and 6 for taps. As I already wrote, there can be an almost unlimited number of wired sensors - they can be connected in parallel to each other. True, when using a sensor with break monitoring, it must be the last in the chain - otherwise the controller will not notice the break after it.

Cranes

Here are two taps(TK12):

Each one has a strict piece of paper on it :)

We disassemble the faucet into two parts:

From the tap side:

A serious metal gear that closes a ball valve. In the first versions it was plastic, but they corrected this defect. From the engine side:

Also a metal gear of the output shaft of a gearbox (a device that reduces rotation speed and increases force). Everything looks serious. The cranes, by the way, are also special - with low friction, to make it easier to turn the crane with a small engine. It closes really easily - you can turn it with your finger without straining too much. Other systems have taps with a motor that is powered by 220V, but there is another problem - safety and the inability to turn off the tap when there is a power outage. And according to Murphy's law, the electricity will be cut off at the most inopportune moment. So I'd rather pay a little extra for a faucet with a low-voltage motor.

Sensor

Wired flood sensor (TK24), as simple as two pennies:

Wire, housing, and fiberglass plate with two contacts. The contacts get wet - the resistance decreases, the controller understands this and turns off the water. There is nothing to break here - the contacts are coated with immersion gold, which means they will not oxidize or rot.
Contact pads:

This is a “premium” sensor, and in simple terms - with protection against wire breakage. The problem is that for a controller, a “regular” sensor that doesn’t work and a sensor whose wire is broken are the same thing. Protection against this is a simple capacitor:

It conducts alternating current, and by its presence the controller can already determine three states - short circuit (flood), no short circuit (sensor in place), and no contact (broken wire).
The sensor is very simple, and if you have direct hands, you can make as many of them as you like for your needs - even a LUT from textolite, even from two strips tin can and wires. Just take care of protection from splashes - otherwise one day during a shower you will be forced to get out of the bath and explain to the controller that it’s not a flood, but just a drop that fell :) But I’m talking about a homemade sensor - the “branded” ones have a body design that provides protection from accidental splashes . In addition, they will only work if the water level reaches 1mm over the entire sensor area - this is approximately 10-15ml of water.

Radio base and sensors

An additional unit (TK17), which adds several wireless sensors to the usual ones. There are two of them in the set, but you can buy and add 6 more - they are attached to this block. And another 12 sensors are connected to the expansion unit (TK19). As a result, the total number of wireless sensors is 20 pieces. I don’t know why there is so much, except for some large cottage.
The radio base board has its own personal ionistor, so as not to waste the energy of the main board on servicing the radio sensors.

Controller, and another tweeter:

And here are the radio sensors:

The right one is just a sensor (TK16), and the left one is a control panel sensor (TK18). The buttons can be used to close and open the taps at any time.
On the back of both sensors is the already familiar board with contacts:

The sensor is disassembled quite simply - you need to take turns from all sides flat screwdriver pry up the central part. It holds very firmly - as I understand it, it is made to prevent water penetration.

By the way, a sensor with a button is the same as a sensor without a button, only with a button:

So if your hands are itchy and your soldering iron is getting hot, you can attach a button - I checked that the contacts work.
On the back of the board are contacts for batteries (2xAAA):

Controller, harness and tweeter:

Assembly

We begin to assemble a system to suit our requirements. Add a second battery pack:

Simply insert the wires into the empty sockets of the connector:

And connect the two blocks together:

Let's take the radio base:

Disable the additional sensor unit and connect the radio base:

Connecting battery packs:

And let's put it all together:

Constructor. By the way, we forgot to connect the taps and the wired sensor. And external power, if necessary - when using it, battery power is not wasted, and wireless sensors are constantly polled. When using battery power, the reaction to pressing a button on the wireless sensor or to its flooding follows a slight delay - from 1 second to 5.

Installation

First we do the simplest thing - we fasten the mounting panel with two screws:

And we hang the controller on it:

Let's disassemble the taps:

I did this for ease of installation on a ready-made system, because the engine protruded too much - it was not very convenient to mount.
We wrap the threads of the tap with fumlente:

We turn off the water, and think about where to insert the tap, so as not to call a plumber to reassemble the entire system?
I have some free space after the counter - where it stands check valve. Look at the lower pipe (the process of installing the faucet on hot water I didn't take it off):

We unscrew what you have unscrewed. We see a loose thread - wrap it with fumlenta :)

Screw the valve onto the tap:

And we screw this whole structure back onto the counter.

We cut off the connecting pipe - the tap has taken up space, so why not move all the other pipes for this?

And put it in place:

We screw the engine into place and tidy up the wires:

We simply place radio sensors in places of possible flooding:

We take the wired one through a hole in the wall (it was necessary to cut the wire and then connect it using tape locks):

We lower the wire down:

We screw the platform to the floor and install the sensor itself:

And close the lid:

The sensors are located around the apartment like this:

One is under the sink, the other is under the washing machine. Wired sensor - under the bathroom. The plan was drawn in SweetHome 3D

Connect the wires to the controller:

Green - sensor. In the first connector (it is labeled as zero) - only the sensor (or chain of sensors) is turned on without monitoring for wire breakage. The remaining connectors contain sensors with open circuit monitoring.
Blue arrow - tap connectors. There is no difference, they all close and open the same way. Lilac and yellow - external and battery power, respectively. Blue - connector for expansion cards (we have a radio base connected to it).
In general, the system after installation looks like this:

All that remains is to comb the wires so that they do not hang over your head.

Examination

I didn’t break the pipe, but I had to figure out a small flood in the bathroom:

Price

You can buy the system on the official website.
The price depends on the set, for example the cheapest (TH00) will cost you 6,220 rubles. It includes two wired sensors, and one tap. An additional tap (TK12) is another 2,390 rubles. Thus, the most budget solution for an apartment with hot and cold water- 8610 rubles.
The version of the system that I had will cost 15,990 rubles. Includes two taps, and four sensors - two wired and two radio.

Links

Review by AlexeyNadezhin
Official site
Offsite mirror
System suppliers in Belarus
Review of the old version of the system from DataLab
Discussion on IXBT

If you do not have an account on Habrahabr, you can read and comment on our articles on the site

Rarely an apartment owner does not know how much misfortune comes from flooding an apartment due to an open tap in the kitchen or bathroom, as well as water leaks in the water supply and heating systems. A flood in an apartment entails colossal material losses and unpleasant disputes with neighbors living on the floor below. Apartment walls flooded with water can cause failure of hidden electrical wiring and damage to electric shock. The developed and implemented mass production of flood protection kits will allow you to avoid and forget all the problems associated with this. Next, we will look at how protection against water leaks in an apartment works, and also provide an overview and comparison of the systems that are most popular today.

Operating principle and components

The protection system kit consists of the following elements:

Control block.
Water leakage sensors.
Taps for automatically shutting off the water supply in the water supply and heating system of the apartment.

It is not difficult to understand how protection works. Sensors are installed in areas where leaks are most likely to occur. As a rule, they are installed under bathtubs and washbasins, washing machines and water heating devices, as shown in the diagram below:

When they come into contact with water, a signal is removed from them and sent to the control module (controller), which performs the functions of a dispatcher. Having received a signal about the presence of water in the controlled area of the leakage protection system, the controller sends a command to the electric drive of the ball valve or to the electromagnetic quick-closing valve, which emergency shut off the water in the water supply or heating system of the apartment.

Review of modern flood protection systems

The possibility of equipping an apartment with protection from flooding is not a prospect for the distant future. This is one of the real steps that you can take today towards introducing it into your home. high technology"smart home" systems. Nowadays, several complexes that protect apartments from leaks occupy a dominant position on the market. Are in deserved demand ready-made kits following types:

"Neptune"
"Gidrolok"
"Stop the Rainbow Flood"

Often, the average consumer, faced with the choice of protection, finds himself in a difficult situation and simply does not know which one is best suited to ensure the safety of his apartment from leaks and prevent flooding. An analysis of the operating technical capabilities and characteristics of the listed devices will allow us to compare their advantages and disadvantages, on the basis of which we can select the necessary protection device.

Neptune

A product of Russian development, which was the first to appear on the Russian market back in 2000. The Neptune brand, according to the Moscow Business Times, is the most popular water leakage control system on the Russian market. The company's product range includes a solution for any budget - from an affordable kit costing less than 10,000 rubles to an ultra-modern one with control on a smartphone. Protection against water leaks Neptune can be installed not only on water supply pipes, but also on heating and heated towel rails, which also pose a risk of water leaks.

The product line includes ready-made apartment kits, as well as individual components, which will allow you to assemble a kit specifically for your needs. In addition, Neptune leakage sensors work not only on wires, but also via a radio channel, which allows you to install protection against water leaks at sites with completed renovations, where it is no longer possible to hide the wires.

The warranty for Neptune water leakage control systems is up to 6 years for all elements of the system.

It is worth noting that protection against water leaks Neptune is already long years is equipped with world-famous Bugatti ball valves, which are made in Italy. The peculiarity of these faucets, in addition to a strong brand in the world of plumbing, premium sealing materials, and electric motor power, is that the electric drive has manual emergency control, that is, the faucet can be opened/closed without electricity.

To choose a suitable Neptune leak protection kit, you need to consider three main points:

Have repairs been completed at your site? If the repair is just beginning, then you can choose any Neptune kit, since all control modules support wired sensors. At the stage of renovation of a room, they are usually used, since it is cheaper than wireless sensors and there is no need to change batteries from time to time. If the repair has already been completed and it is impossible to hide the wires from the sensors, then only kits that support radio sensors are suitable - these are Neptun Bugatti ProW+ and Neptun Bugatti ProW+ WiFi
Diameter of water supply, heating or water heated towel rail pipes. Ready-made Neptune kits are equipped with ball valves of a certain diameter. For example, the most common size of faucets for an apartment is ½ inch. Check this with your facility or your specialist.
The budget allocated for the purchase of the Neptune water leakage control system. The set of options that the consumer will receive depends on the budget.

Neptune Aquacontrol- the most affordable leakage protection system, since the cost is less than 10,000 rubles per set for an apartment (control module, two taps and two sensors). This kit is equipped with the Neptun Base module - this is a very simple and reliable control module that will shut off the water in case of leakage and once a month will automatically turn the taps against souring.

Neptune Bugatti Base– this is excellent value for money. As in the previous kit, a simple Base module is used, but the ball valves are already made in Italy by Bugatti with a large margin of safety. The Neptun Base module does not have backup power - if this feature is important to you, then pay attention to the ProW series modules.

Neptune Bugatti ProW is a kit with advanced functionality that works on wired sensors. Additional features of the ProW module:

Protection of taps from souring (automatic rotation of the tap 2 times a month).
Power supply voltage on taps –12 VDC
Built-in backup power supply.
Addressability – the ability to indicate leaks along 4 lines.
Possibility of connecting warning systems, security systems and integration with a “smart home” (presence of a low-current relay).
Indication of the state of the ball valve (open/closed).
Indication of backup power status.
Possibility of opening and closing the ball valve manually (button on the module).

Neptune Bugatti ProW+ similar to the ProW module, but has the ability to work not only with wired, but also with radio sensors - this perfect choice for those who have already completed home renovations.

Neptune Bugatti ProW+ WiFi– this is the most modern and functional interesting control module. Here's what he can do:

Control of the security system via smartphone. To do this, just install free application and synchronize your mobile phone.
Timely notification of an accident. In addition to the fact that the module emits a sound and light alert on the front panel, additional information about the occurrence of a leak appears on the screen of your mobile phone. A very important function, especially if no one is at home at that time.
Monitoring of hot and cold water consumption readings. Now it is not at all necessary to manually take readings every month by opening the cabinet with meters, which is located in the bathroom or kitchen. Just open it mobile app and view the readings in it. This is a very convenient feature for those who rent out an apartment.
Backup power supply for the protection system. Even if the power supply to your apartment or house is turned off for a long time (up to 36 hours), the Neptun ProW+Wi-Fi module will work. The developers have included batteries in the design, which will serve as a source of backup power. By the way, the application will notify you in advance about the need to replace these batteries.
Indication of the position of ball valves. You can not only monitor the taps remotely, but also, if desired, automatically control them (close and open). If, while on vacation, you forgot to play it safe and turn off the water, you can always do this through the app.
Function of automatic turning of taps. It is a self-cleaning mode for ball valves that prevents “souring” of shut-off valves. Automatic rotation is carried out every 15 days.
The Neptun ProW+Wi-Fi control module can be connected to the system " Smart House» and security alarm system of a residential building. A special exit is provided for this.

The table below shows a comparison of the Neptune models.

How flood protection works using the Neptune kit as an example is shown in the video:

Summary:

Over the years, the Neptune system has earned customer recognition, as evidenced by sales data - it is the most popular protection against water leaks in Russia (source: Moscow Business Times).
Each buyer can choose their own system based on budget and options. The most affordable kit costs less than 10,000 rubles.
The Neptune system is equipped with Italian Bugatti cranes.
There is a very interesting solution Neptun ProW+ WiFi with control on a smartphone.

In preparation of this material Our readers were kindly given a 15% discount on the entire range of the Neptune store. Website: systemneptune.rf. Promo code: saelectric.

Hydroloсk

Products of the Russian company "Gidroresurs". If we compare it with the Neptune device, it can be noted that the principle of its operation is the same; the package includes water sensors, a controller and electric ball valves. The company has developed and put into production several models of leakage protection systems, basic option which are served by “Gidroloсk Standart”.

Additional options for Hydrolock water leakage protection models:

Gidrolock is equipped with three sensors, technical capabilities This water leakage protection device provides for the connection of 20 wired and up to 100 wireless sensors. Emergency water stop time up to 30 seconds. The manufacturer guarantees 10 thousand operating cycles and a general guarantee of the performance of the protection complex for 3 years.

An overview of the Hydrolock kit is demonstrated in the video:

Russian development from the Supersystem company. The operating principle and equipment are the same as the two previous analogs. Thanks to the introduction of innovative materials into the design of faucets, the effort to overcome friction is significantly reduced; emergency closure of faucets when a leak is detected in an apartment occurs in 3 seconds with minimal energy consumption.

Compared to other systems, Aquawatch operates at an operating voltage of only 5 Volts. The degree of automation of the control system does not require human intervention. It is equipped with four sensors, both wired and wireless options are possible. Manufacturer's warranty 4 years.

Review of the Aqua Watch kit:

Stop the flood "RaDuga"

A characteristic feature of this protection system is that all sensors are wireless and operate in the mode of supplying radio signals, the power of which allows them to remain operational at a distance of 20 meters from the controller in conditions apartment building. The product kit includes 1 solenoid valve, 4 sensors. The control unit is designed to connect 9 sensors.

Compared to protection systems, Aquastop is just mechanical device, developed by Russian and Italian specialists. Prevents water from flooding the room if the filling hose ruptures washing machine. Installed in front of the hose using a threaded connection, as shown in the diagram below:

If the hose leaks and the pressure in the system drops, Aquastop will shut off the water in a matter of seconds, which will stop further leakage. The operating principle of the aquastop is demonstrated in the video:

Cost comparison of kits

Finally, we present to your attention a comparison of the cost of the provided apartment flood protection systems:

This concludes our review. We hope you now understand how protection against water leaks in an apartment works and what systems are popular today. Price comparisons and video reviews give a clear understanding of which kit is best to choose to protect your home from flooding!