Concreting of the armored belt. Do-it-yourself selection and installation of formwork for armored belts

Mauerlat is wooden structure, through which the roof is attached to the walls of the house and on which the system of roof rafters is attached. Usually this is a wooden beam made of coniferous species. The timber of the timber must be at least second grade. Pine or larch is used for production.

The dimensions of the timber can be: 150x150mm; 150x100mm; 80x180mm; 100x100 mm; 200x200 mm.

Before fixing the wooden beam of the Mauerlat, it must be impregnated antiseptic. This will help prevent possible wood rot on the cinder block.

If you choose wood yourself, you need to take into account the knowledge passed down from generation to generation - a tree cut down in winter does not rot longer, and one cut down at the end of the month is better preserved than one cut down at the beginning of the month.

Wall mounting methods:

fastening with anchor bolts;
wire fastening;
fastening with studs.

Attaching to a cinder block wall

Fastening with anchor bolts

When building a house made of brick or cinder blocks, it is better to use the most reliable fastening Mauerlat - using anchor bolts secured in an armored belt.
The armored belt is a homemade reinforced concrete structure. It consists of a frame made of metal fittings and wires. This frame is immersed in a mixture of cement, sand and crushed stone. In other words, an armored belt is a reinforced concrete structure.

Here doubt may arise about the need to create an armored belt if the house is built from cinder blocks, which, in themselves, create enough robust construction. The thing is that the Mauerlat is attached to the walls of the building with anchor bolts, and attaching anchor bolts to blocks is strictly prohibited. This can cause even cinder blocks to crack and break.

The armored belt will increase the resistance of the building structure to current deforming loads: wind, house shrinkage, seasonal fluctuations of the foundation, point loads from slabs or beams. When pouring an armored belt, you need to know that it is poured as a single whole. It should not have any breaks.

Whether the Mauerlat will be able to fulfill its load-bearing function depends on how correctly the armored belt to which it is attached is made. The strength of the armored belt depends on how the formwork was installed during its creation.

Fastening the Mauerlat can begin after removing the formwork, when the concrete has completely hardened - this means 4 or 5 days after pouring the concrete.

You need to decide in advance how many anchors you will install to attach the Mauerlat to the cinder block walls. The number of anchors must be no less than the number of rafters that will be attached to the mauerlat. We must not forget that the location of the anchor bolts should not coincide with the location rafter legs. This will reduce the rigidity of the structure. It is advisable that the anchors be located in the middle between the rafters.

It is very difficult to bury anchor bolts in concrete so that they stand strictly vertically and at the same distance from each other. To do this, it is necessary to mark in advance the distance between the anchors, taking into account the location of the rafters and the fact that the anchors should be located at a distance of 0.8 to 1 meter. Metal pins- must protrude above the concrete surface by at least 20 cm.

Some builders attach anchors to pieces of rebar that protrude where the bolts are placed. Fastening occurs by welding.

In order to drill holes in the Mauerlat exactly in the place where the anchors will be located, you can use two methods:

Take a board, secure it to the outer anchors and mark the location of future holes. Then transfer this marking to the Mauerlat;
Place the mauerlat over the anchors and hit it with a sledgehammer. You will get a marking for drilling holes. They should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the bolt.

Before attaching the Mauerlat to the wall, you need to insulate concrete surface from a wooden beam. For this insulation, two layers of roofing felt, polyethylene or other waterproofing material are used. The waterproofing material must not be damaged. The Mauerlat is put on the bolts and pressed as tightly as possible to the wall.

Fastening with wire

For this fastening method, steel wire with a cross-section of 4 to 6 mm is used. It is twisted several times and placed in the wall masonry at a distance of one cinder block from the level of the Mauerlat. The wire can be fixed to the reinforcement of the reinforcement belt - this will increase the strength of the connection between the wall and wooden beam. The length of the wire should be enough to pass through the holes in the beam or to completely encircle it and tie the ends together. When using wire, two holes are drilled opposite each fastening at a height of 25 to 30 cm. The wire is threaded into these holes, tightened and secured, thereby pressing the Mauerlat to the wall.

Fastening with studs

Fastening the Mauerlat with construction pins is only possible if the house being built is small. Metal studs are L-shaped hardware, which are embedded in the masonry of the wall. The stud should be immersed in the wall by 45 cm and protrude above the wall and above the Mauerlat strung on it by 30 cm. The stud does not have to be embedded in the wall masonry. It can, like an anchor, be poured into concrete when constructing an armored belt. This will give the mount greater strength. The threads of the studs must be clean.

Remove from wooden barrel steel hoops and it will fall apart. Clean up around the house reinforced belt and the building will not stand for long. This is a simplified but very clear explanation of the need to strengthen walls. Anyone who is going to build a durable house will benefit from information about the purpose, types and design of armored belts.

What is this structure and what functions does it perform? Armopoyas is a tape made of monolithic reinforced concrete, which is laid on several levels of a building under construction.

The reinforced belt is poured in the foundation, under the floor slabs and under the mauerlats (supporting beams of the rafters).

This amplification method performs four important functions:

Increases the spatial rigidity of the building.
Protects the foundation and walls from cracks caused by uneven settlement and frost heaving of the soil.
Prevents heavy floor slabs from pushing through fragile gas and foam concrete.
Connects securely rafter system roofs with walls made of light blocks.

Reinforced concrete has been and remains the main material for increasing the rigidity of walls. For small outbuildings, you can use a less powerful brick armored belt. It consists of 4-5 rows of brickwork, the width of which is equal to the width of the load-bearing wall. In the seam of each row, a mesh with a cell of 30-40 mm made of steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm is placed on the mortar.

Reinforcing walls with a reinforced belt is not always required. Therefore, there is no need to waste money on its device in the following cases:

under the base of the foundation lies a strong soil (rocky, coarse clastic or coarse sand, not saturated with water);
the walls are built of brick;
under construction cottage, which is covered with wooden beams rather than reinforced concrete panels.

If the site contains weak soils (pulverized sand, loam, clay, loess, peat), then the answer to the question of whether a reinforcing belt is needed is obvious. You cannot do without it even when the walls are built from expanded clay concrete or cellular blocks (foam or aerated concrete).

These are fragile materials. They cannot withstand ground movements and point loads from interfloor floor slabs. The armored belt eliminates the risk of wall deformation and evenly distributes the load from the slabs onto the blocks.

For arbolite blocks (the wall thickness is not less than 30 cm, and the strength grade is not lower than B2.5), an armored belt is not needed.

For Mauerlat

The wooden beam on which the rafters rest is called the Mauerlat. It cannot push through the foam block, so someone may think that an armored belt is not needed under it. However, the correct answer to this question depends on the material from which the house is built. Fastening the Mauerlat without an armored belt is allowed for brick walls. They securely hold the anchors with which the Mauerlat is attached to them.

If we are dealing with light blocks, then the armored belt will have to be filled. In aerated concrete, foam concrete and expanded clay blocks anchors impossible to securely fix. Therefore, a very strong wind can tear the Mauerlat from the wall along with the roof.

For the foundation

Here the approach to the amplification problem does not change. If the foundation is assembled from FBS blocks, then an armored belt is definitely necessary. Moreover, it must be done at two levels: at the level of the sole (base) of the foundation and at its upper cut. This solution will protect the structure from intense loads arising during the rise and settlement of the soil.

Rubble concrete strip foundations also require reinforcement with a reinforced belt, at least at the level of the sole. Rubble concrete is an economical material, but not resistant to soil movements, so it needs reinforcement. But a monolithic “tape” does not need an armored belt, since its basis is a steel three-dimensional frame.

There is no need for this design for a solid foundation slab, which is poured under buildings on soft soils.

Under what types interfloor ceilings do you need an armored belt?

Under the panels that rest on expanded clay concrete blocks, gas or foam concrete, a reinforced belt must be made without fail.

For monolithic reinforced concrete floor it does not need to be poured, since it evenly transfers the load to the walls and firmly connects them into a single spatial structure.

Armopoyas under wooden floor, which rests on light blocks (aerated concrete, expanded clay, foam concrete) is not required. In this case, it will be enough to pour under the beams support platforms made of concrete 4-6 cm thick to eliminate the risk of pushing through the blocks.

How to make an armored belt correctly?

The technology for constructing a reinforced stiffening belt is no different from the method of pouring a monolithic foundation.

In general, it consists of three operations:

Manufacturing of reinforcement frame;
Installation of formwork;
Pouring concrete.

Certain subtleties and nuances in the work appear depending on the area where the armored belt is located.

Reinforced belt for the foundation

Answering the question of how to make a reinforced belt under the foundation (level 1), let’s say that its width should be 30-40 cm greater than the width of the supporting part of the main concrete “ribbon”. This will significantly reduce the pressure of the building on the ground. Depending on the number of storeys of the house, the thickness of such a stiffening belt can be from 40 to 50 cm.

The reinforced belt of the first level is made for all load-bearing walls of the building, and not just for the external ones. The frame for it is made by knitting reinforcement clamps. Welding is used only for preliminary connection (tack welding) of the main reinforcement into a common spatial structure.

Armoyas of the second level (on the foundation)

This design is essentially a continuation strip foundation(rubble concrete, block). To reinforce it, it is enough to use 4 rods with a diameter of 14-18 mm, tying them with clamps with a diameter of 6-8 mm.

If the main foundation is rubble concrete, then there are no problems with installing the formwork under the armored belt. To do this you need to leave it in free place(20-30 cm) for installing the reinforcement cage, taking into account the protective layer of concrete (3-4 cm).

The situation with FBS blocks is more complicated, since formwork is not installed for them. In this case, wooden spacers should be used, which support the formwork panels from below. Before installation, cut boards are stuffed onto the boards, which protrude 20-30 cm beyond the dimensions of the formwork and prevent the structure from moving to the right or left. To connect the formwork panels, short crossbars are nailed to the top of the boards.

Option for attaching armored belt formwork to foundation blocks

The fastening system can be simplified by using threaded rods. They are placed in pairs in the formwork panels at a distance of 50-60 cm. By tightening the studs with nuts, we get a sufficiently strong and stable structure for pouring concrete without wooden supports and crossbars.

This system is also suitable for formwork, which requires an armored belt for floor slabs.

The studs that will be filled with concrete need to be wrapped in glassine or a little machine oil applied to them. This will make it easier to remove them from the concrete after it has hardened.

Reinforced belt for floor slabs

Ideally, its width should be equal to the width of the wall. This can be done in the case when the facade is completely lined with slab insulation. If for decoration it is decided to use only plaster mortar, then the width of the armored belt will have to be reduced by 4-5 centimeters in order to leave room for foam plastic or mineral wool. Otherwise, a through cold bridge of very substantial dimensions will appear in the area where the stiffening belt is laid.

When making an armored belt on aerated concrete, you can use another solution. It consists of installing two thin blocks along the edges of the masonry. A steel frame is placed in the space between them and concrete is poured. The blocks act as formwork and insulate the belt.

If thickness aerated concrete wall 40 cm, then for this purpose you can use partition blocks 10 cm thick.

If the wall thickness is smaller, you can cut it yourself in a standard masonry block cavity for an armored belt or buy a ready-made aerated concrete U-block.

Reinforced belt under the Mauerlat

The main feature in which the armored belt under the Mauerlat differs from other types of reinforcement is the presence of anchor pins in it. With their help, the beam is firmly fixed to the wall without the risk of tearing off or shifting under the influence of wind loads.

The width and height of the reinforcement frame must be such that after embedding the structure between the metal and the outer surface of the belt, at least 3-4 cm of a protective layer of concrete remains on all sides.

Remove the steel hoops from a wooden barrel and it will fall apart. Remove the reinforced belt from the house and the building will not stand for long. This is a simplified but very clear explanation of the need to strengthen walls. Anyone who is going to build a durable house will benefit from information about the purpose, types and design of armored belts.

What is this structure and what functions does it perform? Armopoyas is a tape made of monolithic reinforced concrete, which is laid on several levels of a building under construction.

The reinforced belt is poured in the foundation, under the floor slabs and under the mauerlats (supporting beams of the rafters).

This amplification method performs four important functions:

Increases the spatial rigidity of the building.
Protects the foundation and walls from cracks caused by uneven settlement and frost heaving of the soil.
Prevents heavy floor slabs from pushing through fragile gas and foam concrete.
Reliably connects the roof truss system with walls made of light blocks.

In what cases is an armored belt needed?

For walls

Reinforcing walls with a reinforced belt is not always required. Therefore, there is no need to waste money on its device in the following cases:

under the base of the foundation lies a strong soil (rocky, coarse clastic or coarse sand, not saturated with water);
the walls are built of brick;
a one-story house is being built, which is covered with wooden beams rather than reinforced concrete panels.

For (the wall thickness is not less than 30 cm, and the strength grade is not lower than B2.5), an armored belt is not needed.

For Mauerlat

If we are dealing with light blocks, then the armored belt will have to be filled. B, and the anchors cannot be securely fixed. Therefore, a very strong wind can tear the Mauerlat from the wall along with the roof.

For the foundation

There is no need for this design for a solid foundation slab, which is poured under buildings on soft soils.

What types of interfloor ceilings require an armored belt?

Under panels that rest on expanded clay concrete blocks, gas or foam concrete, a reinforced belt must be made.

It does not need to be poured under a monolithic reinforced concrete floor, since it evenly transfers the load to the walls and firmly connects them into a single spatial structure.

An armored belt for a wooden floor that rests on light blocks (aerated concrete, expanded clay, foam concrete) is not required. In this case, it will be enough to pour concrete support platforms 4-6 cm thick under the beams to eliminate the risk of pushing through the blocks.

Someone may object to us, pointing out a number of cases when the reinforced belt is poured under the wooden floor of the floor. However, in this case, amplification is required not because wooden beams on concrete pads are capable of pushing through the masonry, and to increase the spatial rigidity of the building frame.

How to make an armored belt correctly?

The technology for constructing a reinforced stiffening belt is no different from the method of pouring a monolithic foundation.

In general, it consists of three operations:

Manufacturing of reinforcement frame;
Installation of formwork;
Pouring concrete.

Certain subtleties and nuances in the work appear depending on the area where the armored belt is located.

Reinforced belt for the foundation

Armoyas of the second level (on the foundation)

This structure is essentially a continuation of the strip foundation (rubber concrete, block). To reinforce it, it is enough to use 4 rods with a diameter of 14-18 mm, tying them with clamps with a diameter of 6-8 mm.

If the main foundation is , then there are no problems with installing the formwork under the reinforced belt. To do this, you need to leave free space in it (20-30 cm) for installing the reinforcement cage, taking into account the protective layer of concrete (3-4 cm).

The situation is more complicated, since formwork is not installed for them. In this case, wooden spacers should be used, which support the formwork panels from below. Before installation, cut boards are stuffed onto the boards, which protrude 20-30 cm beyond the dimensions of the formwork and prevent the structure from moving to the right or left. To connect the formwork panels, short crossbars are nailed to the top of the boards.

This system is also suitable for formwork, which requires an armored belt for floor slabs.

The studs that will be filled with concrete need to be wrapped in glassine or a little machine oil applied to them. This will make it easier to remove them from the concrete after it has hardened.

Reinforced belt for floor slabs

Ideally, its width should be equal to the width of the wall. This can be done in the case when the facade is completely lined with slab insulation. If it is decided to use only plaster mortar for decoration, then the width of the armored belt will have to be reduced by 4-5 centimeters in order to leave room for foam plastic or mineral wool. Otherwise, a through cold bridge of very substantial dimensions will appear in the area where the stiffening belt is laid.

If the thickness of the aerated concrete wall is 40 cm, then partition blocks 10 cm thick can be used for this purpose.

If the wall thickness is smaller, you can cut out a cavity for an armored belt in a standard masonry block with your own hands or buy a ready-made aerated concrete U-block.

Reinforced belt under the Mauerlat

The reinforcing belt is a mandatory rigidity contour necessary for the building to be truly strong and durable. It does not allow loads to “accumulate” in one or another part of the supporting structures, but distributes them evenly. Thanks to it, the shrinkage of the new house, soil heaving and other external factors occur without consequences for the walls - that is, without cracks.

The brick armored belt is a small continuous masonry reinforced with longitudinal metal rods or a mesh. Of course, this is not a full-fledged monolith, but in many cases this simple solution turns out to be quite enough. The ability of the armored belt to equalize loads comes in very handy if the main material of the walls is not resistant to deformation. Products like aerated concrete, even with good compressive strength, practically do not work in bending. Uneven application of force will inevitably lead to cracking.

The reinforcing belt solves this problem by taking the main load on itself and not allowing light walls shift relative to each other when exposed to multidirectional or unequal forces. It is also allowed to use brick instead of a more expensive concrete monolith for reinforcing small outbuildings and low-rise buildings. It will successfully withstand unfavorable external conditions (strong wind loads, subsidence or uneven heaving of the soil), but at the same time it is much easier to make it yourself - without haste and the need to process a decent volume of solution at a time.

Another function that a reinforced belt can perform is fastening other elements of the building to the box with anchors, if wall material He himself is not able to hold them. This general disadvantage everyone cellular concrete and expanded clay blocks. Traditional methods You can’t even sew a mauerlat beam to them without further destroying the walls. So what to do separating brickwork in any case it will have to.

The double reinforcing belt, placed under the sole and on the upper cut, performs well columnar foundation. In this case, seasonal soil movements will not be able to “play” with the supports, because they will actually turn into a single truss, rigidly fixed by two ties.

Main types of unloading belts

Depending on the location of the armored belt, it can wear different names and take on certain functions:

Grillage - placed between the columnar or pile foundation of the house and the walls. However, they don’t build it out of brick - it’s too important a site.
The plinth is the second level of unloading and reinforcement, which is used in the construction of houses on a foundation made of concrete blocks. It provides the base with greater rigidity on moving soils and is also made of reinforced concrete. Although a fairly common option is brickwork, which performs the functions permanent formwork for subsequent filling.
Unloading is an intermediate reinforced belt under the floor slabs, which not only takes on their weight, but also ensures the rigidity of the building above one floor at each level. When building from lightweight concrete blocks you cannot do without it, and here the best way is precisely the brick.
Support under the Mauerlat – required element houses made of aerated concrete or other porous blocks that do not easily absorb point and multidirectional loads. In addition, fastening the timber itself with studs in such walls turns out to be unreliable even when using chemical anchoring. Here, the reinforced belt for walls made of aerated concrete turns into a kind of connection between the blocks with which it is connected with mortar, and the roof truss, reinforced through a mauerlat beam.

Features of laying on aerated concrete

Usually, brick belt They are made 4-7 rows high and the width of the wall being strengthened. Reinforcement must be performed in each horizontal seam using steel mesh with a cell of 3-4 cm or rigid wire with a thickness of at least 5 mm. Installation is carried out in the same way as in the case of ordinary walls made of brick:

with seams offset by 1/3 of the length;
with tie dressing in every third row.

If the reinforced belt for aerated concrete made of brick serves as a support for the mauerlat, you can immediately wall up vertical pins - metal threaded rods with a diameter of 12-16 mm - into the masonry. They are installed in increments of 1-1.5 m, and the depth of their embedding will depend on the thickness of the beam - it should be twice as long as the free end for attaching the Mauerlat. However, many builders advise immediately embedding cuttings to the entire height of the armored belt.

After the mortar has set, roofing felt or two layers of roofing felt are spread on the surface of the masonry. This is waterproofing that will protect the timber itself and the brick superstructure from the accumulation of condensing moisture. Next it is outlined and drilled into the right points Mauerlat is threaded onto the stud outlets and fixed on the reinforcement belt with nuts for wide washers.

Since ceramics have greater thermal conductivity than the main wall material, it turns into a kind of cold bridge (although monolithic reinforced concrete in this case it manifests itself even worse). So that during the further operation of the building in winter period If there were no problems, you can try to “close” the contour of the cellular blocks in parallel with laying the brick. To do this, a thin GB partition is removed from the side of the premises, as if hiding the armored belt inside the aerated concrete wall. If a gap has formed between the surfaces, experts recommend additional thermal insulation.

Stages of constructing a belt under the ceiling

If the rigid contour under the roof plays the role of unloading and reliable support for the mauerlat beam, it is enough to lay it around the perimeter of the house box. However, the use of slabs for interfloor or attic floors will force the middle load-bearing wall to be covered with rows of bricks. Here, aerated concrete can also experience loads, so a rigid layer for its reinforcement is simply necessary.

No matter how light the floor slabs are, they cannot be supported directly on cellular or expanded clay concrete blocks. The masonry will be able to withstand their weight, but if the direction of the applied force changes, it will begin to collapse. In this case, the belt serves as a kind of buffer that distributes the pressure of the slab over the entire area of the walls, preventing push-through load-bearing structure. It is possible to refuse a thick layer of solid brick only when the ceiling is made of wood - here they make do with a backing for the beams in one or two blocks.

Otherwise, the armored belt is under hollow core slabs built according to all the rules. Main stages of work:

The first row is planted directly on aerated concrete using a solution. If the thickness of the main wall is standard (30 cm), laying is done in two bricks, filling the gaps with “checks”.
Installation of reinforcing mesh along the entire belt line.
Laying the second row according to the same pattern with subsequent reinforcement.
The third row of bricks is bonded. Here you need to focus on the inner plane of the wall. The gap remaining outside is filled with either quarters or pieces of mineral wool, if an insulated ventilated facade is being erected at the same time.

Under the top row of aerated concrete, on which the belt for the floor slabs is placed, reinforcement must be laid in the grooves. This will add rigidity to the entire structure and provide the walls with additional protection from cracks. Otherwise, once they appear, they will crawl lower.

According to the above diagram, the armored belt is laid out all the way required height, after which you can safely install floor slabs on it. Anchoring in progress in a standard way for brick walls - using L-shaped metal brackets. Fastening elements are covered with a layer of cement mortar to protect against corrosion.

An armored belt is a reinforced concrete structure that is designed to strengthen the walls of a house. This is necessary to protect the walls from loads arising under the influence of external/ internal factors. External factors include wind exposure, terrain slope/hilliness, floating soil and seismic activity of the earth. The list of internal factors includes all household construction tools, used for interior decoration Houses. If you make an armored belt incorrectly, then due to these phenomena the walls will simply crack, and what’s even worse, they will corrode. In view of this, it is very important to be aware of how to make an armored belt. The types, purpose and method of installation of the armored belt will be discussed in this article.

There are 4 types of armored belt:

grillage;
basement;
interfloor;
under the Mauerlat.

Before starting work, you should prepare the following tools/materials:

Fittings.
Cement.
Sand.
Crushed stone.
Wire for tying reinforcement.
Boards.
Self-tapping screws.
Brick.
Shovel.
Crowbar/crowbar.

To ensure that all the work you perform is done with high quality, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the techniques for manufacturing reinforced mesh/framework and formwork.

In order for the reinforced belt to be of high quality, and therefore the house to be reliable, you need to know how to properly make the reinforced mesh/frame. The connection of the reinforcement bars to each other is carried out using a knitting wire, and not a welding seam. This is due to the fact that during welding, the area near the seam being made overheats, which leads to a weakening of the strength of the reinforcement. But you can’t do without welding seams when making mesh. The middle and ends of the frame are welded, while the remaining connecting nodes are tied together.

The rods are fastened to fix the reinforcement in the required position when pouring concrete. For these purposes, thin wire is used; the strength of the mesh/frame does not depend on it.

For the manufacture of armored belts, only ribbed rods are used. Concrete clings to the ribs, which helps increase load-bearing capacity designs. Such a belt can work in tension.

To make a frame, take 2 wires 12 mm thick and 6 m long, while for transverse reinforcement you will need rods 10 mm thick. The transverse reinforcement should be welded in the center and edges. The rest of the rods are simply knitted. After making two meshes, hang them so that a gap is formed. Weld them from the edges and in the center. This way you will have a frame. There is no need to weld the frames to make the belt. They are laid with an overlap of 0.2–0.3 m.

Installation and fastening of formwork is carried out using several methods. To install wooden panels, you need to pass anchors through them and install plugs on them using electric welding. The purpose of these actions is to fix the formwork in such a way that it is not squeezed out under the weight of the concrete.

To secure the formwork when pouring interfloor armored belt A simpler method is often used. A screw with a diameter of 6 mm and a length of 10 cm should be fixed to the bottom of the shield. The distance between them is 0.7 m. So, attach wooden shield to the wall, drill a hole through it, insert a mushroom into it and hammer in a screw.

The hole in the shield should be slightly larger than 6 mm in diameter. This is necessary in order to easily install the fungus.

The upper part of the formwork is also secured with quick installation. But in this case, you should screw in a self-tapping screw, not a screw. So, make a hole in the face brick. Then drive the reinforcement into it. If the brick is solid, then the situation is simpler - just drive a nail/reinforcement into the vertical seam. Tighten the self-tapping screw and reinforcement with binding wire. The distance between fastening elements is 1–1.2 m. Such fastening is capable of withstanding the upcoming loads.

After the armored belt has hardened, the formwork can be removed using a crowbar/nail puller. In the warm season, concrete sets within a day. In this case, the dismantling of the formwork can be carried out the next day. During the cold season, this procedure is carried out a few days later.

Initially, you should determine the depth of the foundation. This parameter depends on the type of soil, the depth of its freezing, as well as the depth of groundwater. Then you should dig a trench around the perimeter of the future house. This can be done manually, which is long and tedious, or with the help of an excavator, which is quick and efficient, but entails additional costs.

After special equipment is used, the bottom and walls of the trench should be leveled to solid ground. The surface should be as hard and smooth as possible.

Now you need to form a sand cushion, the height of which should be 50–100 mm. If it is necessary to backfill sand more than 100 mm, it must be mixed with crushed stone. This activity may be necessary to level the bottom of the trench. Another way to level the bottom is to pour concrete.

After filling the sand cushion, it must be compacted. To complete the task faster, pour water on the sand.

Then the reinforcement should be laid. During construction in normal conditions you need to use reinforcement of 4–5 cores, the diameter of each rod should be 10–12 mm. It is important that when pouring the grillage for the foundation, the reinforcement does not touch the base. It must be recessed in concrete. Thus, the metal will be protected from corrosion. To achieve this, the reinforcing mesh should be raised above the sand cushion, placing brick halves under it.

If you are building a house on heaving soil or where the groundwater level is high, then the grillage should be made more durable. For this instead reinforcing mesh reinforcement cage should be used. He imagines 2 meshes consisting of 4 wires with a diameter of 12 mm. They should be laid below and above the armored belt. Granular slag is used as a base instead of a sand cushion. Its advantage over sand is that over time, granulated slag turns into concrete.

To make the mesh, a knitting wire is used rather than a welding seam.

For the grillage, M200 concrete should be used. To ensure that the filling height corresponds to the specified value, install a beacon in the trench - a metal peg equal in length to the height of the grillage. It will serve as your guide.

Before erecting walls, a basement reinforced belt should be poured onto the foundation. It must be poured along the perimeter of the building along external walls, but you can’t do this along the inner load-bearing walls. The base armored belt serves as additional reinforcement of the structure. If you have filled the grillage with high quality, then the plinth belt can be made less durable. The height of the armored belt is 20–40 cm, concrete M200 and higher is used. The thickness of two-core reinforcing bars is 10–12 mm. The reinforcement is laid in one layer.

If you need to strengthen the base belt, then use reinforcement of greater thickness or install more conductors. Another option is to lay the reinforced mesh in 2 layers.

The thickness of the basement and external walls is the same. It ranges from 510 to 610 mm. When pouring the base armored belt, you can do without formwork, replacing it with brickwork. To do this, you need to make half-brick masonry on both sides of the wall. You can fill the resulting void with concrete after placing reinforcement in it.

In the absence of a grillage, it is useless to make a base armored belt. Some craftsmen, having decided to save on the grillage, strengthen the base belt, using reinforcement of a larger diameter, which supposedly improves the load-bearing capacity of the house. In fact, such a decision is unreasonable.

The grillage is the foundation of the house, and the plinth belt is an addition or strengthening of the load-bearing capabilities of the reinforced belt for the foundation. Collaboration grillage and plinth belt guarantee a reliable foundation even on heaving soils and with high level occurrence of groundwater.

An armored belt must also be made between the wall and the floor slabs. It is poured along external walls with a height of 0.2 to 0.4 m. Interfloor armored belt allows you to save on door/window lintels. They can be made small and with a minimum of reinforcement. Thus, the load on the structure will be distributed evenly.

If an armored belt is installed on walls made of poorly load-bearing material, the load from the floor slabs will be distributed evenly along the entire length of the walls, which will have a beneficial effect on their strength characteristics.

Reinforcement of the interfloor belt is carried out with a mesh of ribbed reinforcing bars 10–12 mm thick in 2 cores. If the thickness of the walls varies between 510–610 mm, then double-sided brickwork can be used as formwork, as for the base belt. But at the same time, backing bricks should be used for internal masonry, and facing bricks for external masonry. In this case, the armored belt will have a width of 260 mm. If the walls are thinner, the backing brick should be laid on edge or wooden formwork should be used instead, and with outside The facing brick is laid in the same way as in the previous case.

The armored belt can be poured under the Mauerlat only after the glue/mortar for masonry walls has hardened. The technology used to lay the reinforced belt on aerated concrete differs in the formwork design, but we will talk about this a little later. The production of wooden formwork is carried out according to a scheme already familiar to you. Concrete is prepared according to the following formula: 2.8 parts sand to 1 part cement and 4.8 parts crushed stone. Thus, you will get M400 concrete.

After filling, eliminate any remaining air bubbles in the mixture. To accomplish these tasks, use a construction vibrator or poke a rod into the liquid mass.

At monolithic device armored belt, you should follow the rules for attaching the Mauerlat. During the installation of the reinforcement frame, vertical sections should be removed from it to the height specified in the project. The reinforcement bars should rise above the reinforced belt by the thickness of the Mauerlat + 4 cm. It is necessary to make through holes, equal to the diameter of the reinforcement, and threads should be cut at its ends. So, you will get a reliable mount, which will give you the opportunity to carry out high-quality installation roofs of any configuration.

Aerated concrete is an alternative to brick, which has high thermal insulation qualities along with low cost. Aerated concrete blocks inferior to brick in strength. If, when installing an armored belt on brick walls There is no need to pour concrete, since the reinforcement is laid during the laying process, but with aerated concrete things are different. How to make an armored belt on wooden formwork has already been discussed above, so in this subsection we will look at how to make a reinforced belt from U-shaped aerated concrete blocks D500. Although it is worth noting immediately that this technology is more expensive.

In this case, everything is extremely simple. Place the blocks on the wall as usual. Then reinforce their central part, and then fill it with concrete. Thus, the walls of your home will be more durable and reliable.

If you still have questions on the topic, then ask them to a specialist working on the site. If necessary, you can consult with our expert about filling the armored belt. Eat personal experience? Share it with us and our readers, write comments on the article.

Video

You can learn how to make an armored belt for a house made of aerated concrete from the video: