No drilling. Drilling a water well with your own hands: diagram and video

Drilling a well for water is complex and difficult, but interesting and exciting work. And, today, the most affordable way to establish an independent water supply: at the current cost of drinking water the costs of independent drilling, equipment and well development pay off in less than a year. Unless, of course, you take a barrel to the river in a wheelbarrow, risking a serious accident with something that would make the doctors’ eyes widen over their masks.

The earth and the water in it are a complex natural system. That's why step by step instructions And step-by-step guides in the drilling business there is no point in giving: anyway, in the depths, something will turn out to be wrong. However, miners have long learned to overcome almost any surprise underworld. And this article, based on this experience, provides the information necessary for a novice driller to ensure that, if not the first, then the second well produces water in the right amount good quality.

Where to drill?

The general scheme of the formation of aquifers in nature is shown in Fig. The high water is fed mainly by sediments and lies within approximately 0-10 m. High waters can be suitable for drinking without deep processing(boiling, filtration through shungite) only in individual cases and subject to regular testing of samples by sanitary authorities. Then, for technical purposes, the perched water is taken from a well; The well's flow rate in such conditions will be small and very unstable.

A water well is drilled independently into interstratal waters; highlighted in red in Fig. Artesian well providing water best quality Very for a long time, it is impossible to drill on your own, even if you have a detailed geological map of the area: the depth of occurrence is usually more than 50 m and only in exceptional cases does the formation rise to 30 m. In addition, independent development and extraction of artesian waters is categorically, subject to criminal liability. prohibited - it is a valuable natural resource.

Most often, it is possible to drill a well on your own into a gravity-fed formation.– sand soaked in water on a clay bed. Such wells are called sand wells, although the free-flowing aquifer can be gravel, pebble, etc. Free-flowing waters lie approximately 5-20 m from the surface. The water from them is most often drinkable, but only based on the test results and after pumping the well, see below. The debit is small, 2 cubic meters. m/day is considered excellent, and fluctuates somewhat throughout the year. Sand filtering is required, which complicates the design and operation of the well, see below. The lack of pressure increases the requirements for the pump and the entire water supply system.

The pressure strata lie deeper, in the range of about 7-50 m. The aquifer in this case is dense water-resistant fractured rocks - loam, limestone - or loose, gravel-pebble deposits. The best quality water comes from limestone, and such wells last longer. Therefore, water supply wells from pressure layers are called limestone wells. The formation's own pressure can lift water almost to the surface, which greatly simplifies the construction of a well and the entire water supply system. The debit is large, up to 5 cubic meters. m/day, and stable. A sand filter is most often not needed. As a rule, the analysis of the first water sample passes with a bang.

Note: But how do you find out which layer is available and accessible in a given place? The methods for finding water for drilling a well are generally the same as for. In the central zone of the Russian Federation, free-flowing water can almost always be found within the first 20 meters of depth.

Important circumstances

First: Mass uncontrolled intake of free-flow water can lead to the so-called. soil suffusion, as a result of which soil failures suddenly and unpredictably occur, see Fig.

Second: critical depth self-drilling on flat terrain in the Russian Federation it is 20 m. Deeper - the cost of a custom turnkey well is less than the direct and indirect costs of a self-drill. In addition, the failure rate is close to 100%

Third: The service life of a well greatly depends on the regularity of water intake from it. If you take water little by little as you use it, a well for sand will last about 15 years, and for limestone up to 50 years or more. If you periodically pump everything out at once or, conversely, take it sporadically, the well will dry up in 3-7 years. Repairing and restarting a well is so complicated and expensive that it’s easier to drill a new one. If this circumstance surprises you, keep in mind that it is not a pipe in the ground that is being repaired, but an aquifer.

Based on this, we can already advise: if you find free-flowing water no deeper than 12-15 m, do not rush to rejoice, it is better to drill as far as possible to reach the limestone. And the best thing is not to be lazy and produce exploratory drilling needle hole, see below. It is possible to make an igloo well literally in a weekend; complex and expensive equipment is not required. And it can also be a temporary source of water supply until you decide on a permanent one in terms of time, money, etc.

Note: a water well is called an igloo (more details at the link). You can literally break through it from the basement of the house, as in the video below:

Video: Abyssinian well in the house

Well or well?

It is known that digging a well is immeasurably more difficult, complex and dangerous work than drilling a well, as is the fact that a properly equipped well is repairable. But there is also a fundamental difference between them. Water is drawn from the well as much as the earth will give, i.e. how much will flow from the formation. And the action of a well is similar to drawing blood from a donor’s vein. That is why the service life of wells is limited and they can catastrophically change the geology of the area. A well can provide water for decades and centuries, and a well made in rocky soil can provide water for millennia, without in any way affecting the local ecology and geology. Therefore, private water wells are drilled, with the goal of either building a collective artesian water supply system (artesian wells are durable and environmentally friendly), or, having mustered the courage and resources, to dig a well. At the same time, the water supply system of the house is being built completely, because... In general, she just needs pressure, except for some nuances, see below. And the abandoned well is plugged concrete mortar and the land around it is returned to farming.

Types of wells

A borehole is a long, narrow cavity in rock called a borehole. When drilling, a drilling tool (a drill bit or simply a drill) is lowered into a shaft on a rigid assembly rod made of pipes (a drill string or drill rod) or a cable. A pipe or several concentric pipes are placed in the shaft - casing (case pipe, case string) - protecting the walls of the shaft from collapse and maintaining rock pressure. The casing can fit tightly in the barrel or with some gap - the annulus; it is filled with backfill or clay (clay castle) or poured with concrete. The lower end of the trunk can be open, plugged, or end in a stepped narrowing - the bottom. An intake device is made at the bottom or in the bottom of a production well for liquid minerals. The upper part of the casing is called the well head. A set of devices that make up the well arrangement is placed around the head or in it. Of the many well designs, most of all the types shown in Fig. pass independently; a more detailed diagram of the well with casing is shown there, pos. 5.

1 – needle hole. The drill rod, casing and drill string are one; the drill remains in the ground. They pass the needle hole using the impact method, see below. A core driver, a set of drilling tools, and other equipment for drilling wells with a separate casing for a needle well are not required, see fig. on right. The penetration speed reaches 2-3 m/hour, and the maximum depth achieved in this way is about 45 m. Needle wells are used for constructing Abyssinian wells, especially in the country. The output of the needle well is small, but in the summer it is quite stable. Its service life does not depend on the intensity and regularity of water intake, but it is unpredictable: there are Abyssinian wells that have been providing water for more than 100 years, but they can dry up in six months. The needle well cannot be repaired; it can only be drilled in not very dense and homogeneous soils. The maximum diameter of the drill rod when drilling without a copter is up to 120 mm, which is sufficient for a submersible pump with a caliber of 86 mm.

Note: when drilling an exploratory needle well, it is better to use a simple filter, on the left in Fig.

2 – imperfect well. She seems to be hanging in the seam. It does not require sophisticated knowledge of geology and drilling skills, but the flow rate is lower and the water quality is worse than the maximum possible for a given formation. The maximum water quality can be obtained if the well below is plugged. In addition, perhaps the so-called. pulling the drilling tool and casing deep. Self-propelled wells are most often imperfect; much of the following material concerns them. Wells in thick aquifers are also drilled imperfectly, because when deepened into the formation by 1.5-2 m, the debit stabilizes and almost does not grow deeper.

3 – perfect well. The casing rests on the roof of the underlying waterproof layer. The flow rate and quality of water are maximum, but to drill a perfect well, precise knowledge of local geology and the experience of the driller are necessary, otherwise, firstly, the casing may be pulled into the underlying formation if it is plastic. Secondly, when drilling, you can pierce the litter, and the water will go down; this is especially true in dry areas with thin layers. Thirdly, just one incorrectly drilled well can cause serious damage to the local ecology.

4 – well with bottom. It can be either perfect or imperfect. The bottomhole makes it easier to maintain the well and makes it repairable to some extent, but experienced drillers must drill a bottomhole well according to the local geology.

Note: in some sources the bottom of the well is called a sump. This is also incorrect in German; the bottom of a well and the sump of a well are completely different things.

Drilling methods

You can drill wells yourself in the following ways:

Rotary, or rotary - the drill bit rotates, biting into the rock;
Impact - they hit the drill rod, deepening the drill bit into the rock, this is how needle holes are drilled;
Impact-rotational - the rod with the drilling tool is raised several times and lowered with force, loosening the rock, and then rotated, taking it into the cavity of the tool, see below;
Rope-impact - a special drilling tool is raised and lowered on a rope, taking away the rock.

All these methods relate to dry drilling. When hydrodrilling, the working process occurs in a layer of water or a special drilling fluid that increases the compliance of the rock. Hydrodrilling is not environmentally friendly, requires expensive special equipment and high water consumption. In amateur conditions, it is used in exceptional cases, in an extremely simplified and limited form, see below.

Dry drilling, except for impact drilling without casing, can only be intermittent, i.e. the drill has to be lowered into the trunk, then removed from it in order to select the rock from the drill. In professional hydraulic drilling, crushed rock is removed with spent drilling fluid, but an amateur needs to know for sure: it is impossible to drill a shaft to a depth greater than the length of the working part of the tool in one drilling cycle. Even if you drill with an auger (see below), you need to lift it and shake out the rock from the turns after a maximum of 1-1.5 m of penetration, otherwise the expensive tool will have to be given to the ground.

Casing installation

The attentive reader may already have a question: how do they install casing in the barrel? Or how do they raise/lower the drill, which, in theory, should be wider than it? In professional drilling - different ways. The oldest is illustrated in Fig. on the right: the axis of rotation of the tool is shifted relative to its longitudinal axis (circled in red), and cutting part perform asymmetrical. The neck of the drill is made conical. All this, of course, is carefully calculated. Then, in operation, the drill describes a circle extending beyond the casing, and when lifted, its neck slides along its edge and the drill slips into the pipe. This requires powerful, precise drive of the drill string and its reliable centering in the casing. As the casing deepens, it is built up from above. Complex special equipment is not available to amateurs, so they can install casing pipes in the following ways:

They drill a “bare” trunk without casing to full depth with a drill of a larger diameter than the casing pipe, and then lower the casing pipes into it. To prevent the entire column from falling down, they use 2 drill gates: one holds the pipe that has already gone into the well, see fig. on the right, and the second one is installed on the new one before removing the first one. Only then is the column pushed into the trunk if it no longer moves. This method is often used by amateurs on fairly dense, adhesive (sticky) and cohesive (not loose) soils to a depth of 10 m, but there are no statistics on how many wells collapsed, how many drills and casing were lost.
The drill is taken with a smaller diameter, and the lower casing is made with diverging sharpened teeth (crown) or equipped with a cutting skirt. Having drilled for 1 cycle, the drill is filled, and the pipe is forced to settle; a crown or skirt cuts off excess soil. This method slows down drilling, because before starting a new cycle, you need to use a bailer (see below) to select the crumbled soil, but it is more reliable, makes it easier to fill the annulus with gravel and allows you to use an external sand filter, see below.

Drilling tool

Now let's see which drill to drill into which soil and in what way, see fig. on right:

The cutting edges of all drills are made of hardened steel. Drawings of a homemade drill-glass, an analogue of a spoon drill (the cutting blades are installed by a propeller at an angle of 3-10 degrees) and a diagram of the bailer are shown in the following. rice. on right. The outer diameters of all these drills can be changed depending on the caliber of the well.

How do they drill?

Mobile drilling rigs that allow you to drill directly from the ground, like the one in Fig. left,

Unfortunately, they are not available for rent: managing them requires vocational training and the very fact of ownership, albeit temporary, of a license for drilling operations. Therefore, we will have to start the old fashioned way, in the Gorshchitsky way - with a homemade copra, unless the woman beats the needle well.

Koper

The simplest pile driver is a tripod made of logs or steel pipes in the form of an equilateral triangular pyramid - a tetrahedron, pos. 1 in Fig. below. This design is very strong and rigid with minimal material consumption. The height of a tetrahedron is equal to 0.8165 of the length of its edge, i.e. from ordinary 6-m logs, taking into account the depth of the pile driver's legs into the ground, a tripod with a height of about 4.5 m will be obtained, which will allow the use of casing pipe bends up to 3 m in length. In general, the height of the piledriver is taken 1.2-1.5 m higher maximum length of what will go down into the trunk.

The legs of the piledriver can be fastened together with a frame made of the same logs/pipes to prevent them from moving, but in order to save material, you can also dig 0.7-0.8 m into the ground, placing a piece of log about 1 m long horizontally under the heel of each - a bed. Assembling the copra tent on the ground, pos. 3, the legs are simultaneously (three or six of them) inserted into the pits with the beds and the soil is poured back, compacting it tightly.

Note: strengthening the legs of a piledriver directly on the ground with crowbars or steel rods driven in from the outside is extremely dangerous!

The pile driver is equipped with a lifting and drilling gate (pos. 1 and 2), a block with a hook (pos. 1, 2, 4) and a rocking lever for lifting the drill, cable-percussion drilling, setting up casing pipes and working with a bailer, pos. 2. The block hook and drills that have an eye (a ring for fastening the rope) are tied with an anchor knot (it is also called a fishing bayonet, pos. 1 in the figure on the right), and long loads are tied with a cargo knot, pos. 2 there.

Shurf

Having installed the pile driver, a hook with a compact weight (a sledgehammer, for example) is lowered to the ground, this is where the trunk will begin. Around this point, they dig (hammer) a hole measuring approximately 1.5 x 1.5 x 1.5 m. In the hole, they also mark the starting point and drill the first 3-4 m with an auger, constantly checking its verticality. This is an extremely important operation; the fate of the entire well depends on the first meters! Further, if drilling is to a depth of more than 7 m, it is highly desirable to install a conductor - a pipe with a diameter larger than the diameter of the annulus of the wellbore. The conductor is carefully aligned to the vertical and concreted.

Note: Attention! When choosing the dimensions of the well, drills and pipes, tie them to the caliber of the submersible pump! The gap between its body and the nearest wall must be at least 7 mm or according to the specifications for the unit. The most common caliber of household submersible pumps is 86 mm.

Prokhodka

Methods of drilling with different projectiles on different soils are described above. Problems can arise, in addition to boulders, with dense dry clay, this is a very harmful rock. You can deal with it in different ways, for example, as shown here:

Video: drilling water wells in dense clay

In general, rotary-percussion or cable-percussion hydraulic drilling is used to penetrate dense clay, see figure on the right. There is no need to pump water that is not yet available. You can simply pour several buckets into the casing, wait half an hour or less, and try which one takes better - a glass or a spoon. You don’t have to try it with an auger, the clay will take it.

Casing and column

The drill string is assembled from steel pipes with a diameter of about 80 mm and walls with a thickness of 4 mm. Whether you take ready-made drill elbows or make them yourself, pay attention to the connection method. Only connections with bayonet couplings are suitable for manual drilling! Threaded and locking ones of any kind are not suitable: the rod will inevitably have to be turned in the opposite direction at some point and the rod will unscrew and the lock will come apart during any type of impact drilling.

During the drilling process, as already mentioned, casing pipes are also installed. Nowadays, even in professional drilling to shallow depths, plastic casings have become practically no alternative, but you need to take special casings:

Lightweight, you can move it alone.
Withstand forced settlement and soil pressure with a force of up to 5 tf.
They practically do not slow down the internal filter, see below, when installing it.
They do not corrode or spoil water throughout their service life, up to 50 years.

The only thing that plastic casing is afraid of is damage from the inside by the drill rod. Therefore, it is advisable to use drill pipe centralizers, see fig. on the right, 1 for every 3-5 m of the rod. The cheapest ones are steel spring ones, they are quite suitable. As for the complex ones with turbulators, etc., they are for professional hydraulic drilling.

Sprinkling

As the casing deepens into the barrel, it is necessary to add fine gravel into the annulus. Gravel filling of a water well will greatly speed up its pumping and extend its service life. And a sand well without backfill may turn out to be completely inoperable.

There is water!

The achievement of the aquifer by a needle well is judged by the increase in the rate of penetration, and the presence of water is checked with a snare - a piece of steel pipe welded at one end and lowered into the well on a cord. With other wells it is simpler: as the drill once again brought out wet soil, it means there is water. It remains to be decided whether it is necessary to go deeper. To do this, use a centrifugal submersible pump (the vibrating pump will immediately clog in such slurry) to pump out several buckets. If the water in the 5th bucket has not noticeably brightened, you need to go deeper another 0.5 m (1 drilling cycle) and check again. If you have already gone 2 m deep, but the sample is still the same - that’s it, there will be no more debit, and you will have to put up with a long buildup. Also, if the rate of penetration suddenly drops (and it is very difficult for an inexperienced driller to detect it using any drilling method other than rotary), then drilling is stopped immediately - we are at the bottom of the formation, the well will be perfect.

Note: When drilling stops or is interrupted, the rod with the drill must be removed, otherwise it will be pulled into the ground.

Rocking up

A drilled well will not yet provide water in the required quantity and quality. To do this, it is necessary to either open the aquifer or pump the well. Opening up the formation allows you to get drinking water within 24 hours. It requires large amounts of clean water and complex and expensive equipment. Please note: autopsy is carried out using direct and reverse methods. At direct water pumped under pressure into the casing and pumped out the drilling fluid from the annulus. When reversed, water is fed by gravity “behind the pipe” and the solution is pumped out of the trunk. Direct opening is faster, but it disrupts the structure of the formation more strongly and the well lasts less. The opposite is the opposite. Keep this in mind when negotiating with drillers if you order a well.

Bore pumping takes several days, but can be done with an ordinary household submersible centrifugal pump; vibration is not suitable for the reasons stated above. To pump, first remove silt from the well using a bailer; You can see how to use a bailer in the video below:

Video: cleaning (swinging) a well with a homemade bailer

The rest is not difficult: the water is completely pumped out every time there is enough of it to cover the pump. It is useful to raise and lower it on the cable rope several times before turning it on to stir up the residual sludge. The swing can be done with a manner, but scooping will take a lot of work, and it will take about two weeks.

Note: as the rocking progresses, the gravel backfill will settle; it must be replenished by adding more.

The pumping of the well is considered complete when the transparency of the water rises to 70 cm. It is checked with a white enamel or earthenware disk with a diameter of 15 cm (saucer, saucepan lid) in an opaque vessel, for example. clean barrel. When the edges of the disk begin to blur during immersion, stop, it’s already opaque. You need to look at the disk strictly vertically. Once transparency is achieved, the water sample is submitted for analysis and, if everything is OK, the annulus is concreted or closed with clay, and a filter is installed.

Filter

A well filter is the main device that ensures the quality of water from it. And at the same time, it is the component most susceptible to wear, so the choice of a well filter must be taken with full responsibility.

Artesian water is taken without filtration. For a well on limestone, most often a simple lattice filter in the form of perforation on the lower bend of the casing is sufficient; it will also serve as the basis for a sand well filter. The perforation requirements are:

The diameter of the holes is 15-20 mm, up to 30 mm depending on the ground.
The filter duty cycle (the ratio of the total area of the holes to the surface area they occupy) is 0.25-0.30, for which the distance between the centers of the holes is taken to be 2-3 times greater than their diameter.
The location of the holes is in transverse rows in a checkerboard pattern.
The total area of all holes is not less than the area cross section casing pipe lumen.

For a sand well, firstly, gravel backfill is necessary; V in this case It is this that ensures long-term water quality, just like in a well. In view of this, well filters with a layer of gravel included in the design are available for sale. There is no harm in them, but the wellbore needs a larger diameter, which makes drilling difficult, and without external backfilling, the well still quickly silts up.

Further, if you follow the flow of water, there is the same perforated pipe, but now it will be a load-bearing element that absorbs rock pressure. To prevent sand, which gravel does not retain well, from spoiling the entire water supply tract, you also need a sand filter. It can be external or external (on the left in the figure) or internal (on the right in the same place). External filters have three advantages: minimum diameter and siltation of the well and pump installation depth. But they are easily damaged during casing installation, are unrepairable and expensive, because... due to the latter, circumstances must be fulfilled from a very quality materials: alloys for mesh and wire of external well filters are more expensive than silver.

When installing a pump in a well with internal filter its bottom is considered to be its upper edge, so the volume of one-time water withdrawal is seriously reduced. The problem with all internal filters is increased silting of the well due to water seeping into the gap between the filter and the casing. Also, as a result, the service life of the filter is reduced, and pump wear increases, because sand gets into it. This is why the pump is often placed in separate pipe, mounted on the filter outlet, which again requires an increase in the diameter of the well.

The best option is to connect the pump directly to the filter outlet, then both silting and sanding will stop. But this requires a centrifugal pump with an intake pipe on the bottom, which makes it much more complicated and expensive, and the vibration pressure is often low for sand wells.

The filter elements of sand filters are sometimes made independently from PVC pipes, stainless springs and polymer mesh, see fig. on the left, but they filter poorly and do not last long. It’s better to take a good store-bought filter; its operating conditions are too difficult, and taking it out, as they say, is quite a task. In this case, there are basically 3 options, see fig:

Polymer stacked ring filter. Cheaper than others, but lasts less and is prone to silting, but it is repairable: you can lift it and sort it out, replacing bad rings. Requires an increased well diameter;
Tubular-wire with a winding of profiled wire. A little more expensive than polymer, but it lasts a long time and does not silt. Repairs do not require a bulkhead; just wash the top. It would be optimal if not for one “but”: cases of fraud by manufacturers, traders, and drillers have been repeatedly noted - how completely stainless filters are supplied, in which the longitudinal rods are made of ordinary galvanized wire. It is impossible to check without breaking the filter, but harmful impurities soon appear in the water, and then the rods completely rust, the winding slips, and the entire filter has to be replaced.
Support-free welded filters, wire and slotted. They would be ideal (the latter can withstand settling into the barrel from the outside on the pipe), if not for the price: they are made from the same profiled stainless wire that costs about the same as silver.

Arrangement and automation

To supply water to the house, a well must be equipped and mutually coordinated with the water supply. Construction of a water supply well in last years has undergone radical changes. The traditional scheme (see figure on the right) is a caisson, concrete or steel, or a stone pit, which requires a large amount of additional earthworks and useful land area for yourself is becoming a thing of the past. Nowadays, water wells are increasingly equipped with well adapters, see fig. below. Installing the adapter is quite a painstaking task, but it is incomparable with a caisson-pit sweep:

As soon as the water begins to flow, they judge by the speed of its clearing how much further it is possible to go deeper, and cut the last casing pipe to size from above.
Before installing it, make a trench to the house to a depth greater than the standard depth of soil freezing.
A hole for the adapter is drilled in the pipe in advance and installed, plugging the pipes. If you place it directly in a well, it may gurgle there.
They place the pipe and drill further, orienting the outlet of the adapter into the trench at a depth greater than the freezing depth.
They rock the well, install the filter, lower the pump, connect the pump supply pipe and the transit pipe to the house to the adapter fittings, and lay the pump cable.
They put the well cap on, when the water has flowed into the tank, fill up the trench - that’s it.

Water supply to a private house from a well has its own characteristics, but they will not prevent you from later connecting to a collective water supply or drinking water from a well. You won’t have to redo anything, it will only be more reliable.

First, you need a pressure storage tank. The flow rate of a non-artesian well may, for unknown reasons, drop until it stops completely, and then the water flows again as if nothing had happened. Secondly, downstream of the tank along the water flow you need at least a 2-stage membrane filter. In public water supply systems, water quality is continuously monitored, which is not the case at home. What if there is a man-made accident or an unauthorized discharge of pollution somewhere in the reservoir’s recharge zone? Everyone has already forgotten when it was, but bad water just approached the well.

Finally, the home water supply must comply with the principle of gradual, uniform water withdrawal, which was discussed at the beginning. Cooperating with neighbors, as when building a common septic tank, is not the best solution in this case. Suddenly there won’t be enough debit for everyone, instead of the community there will be squabbles. Those. we need automation that turns on the booster pump as soon as someone somewhere opens a tap.

There are 2 options here. The first is a pressure tank with a float valve in a warm attic. All automation consists of a rod that passes in a sleeve through the tank cover and rests on the float lever, and a 6-10 A microswitch (micrik) with normally closed contacts in the pump power supply circuit. While the tank is full, the rod presses on the microphone lever, the pump is de-energized. As soon as water began to flow into the house, the rod dropped, the microphone went off, and the pump started pumping.

However, firstly, you need to insulate the attic, which costs a lot of work and money. The second is a pump, it will require an extra 4-5 meters of pressure, and for a 2-story house, all 8-9, so the pump turns out to be expensive. Thirdly, a leak in the tank or a malfunction of the float will at least lead to the ceiling getting wet. Therefore, modern automation for water supply wells, controlled by a microcontroller that monitors flow rate, water pressure and the frequency of turning on the pump, is still cheaper and more reliable. House plumbing is then carried out with a sealed membrane storage tank in the basement.

Afterword

The drilling masters who once developed Tyumen and Urengoy are still alive. There were no geophysical equipment that built a 3D picture of what was in the ground on a computer display, and there were no fully robotic drilling rigs at that time, but they already saw through the earth with their intuition, experience and were on friendly terms with all the spirits of the subsoil. And the then ministers and members of the Politburo, who had more arrogance than the old Testament boyars and appanage princes, addressed these aces as “you” by name and patronymic and respectfully shook their hands.

So, any of the old bison drillers have failed wells, which they are not ashamed of - that’s how they work. What then should we say to beginners who act independently? Don't be discouraged by failure; suddenly the first well turns out to be empty, or collapses, or the drill gets stuck. Not without that in the drilling business. But frustration and disappointment will instantly subside under the powerful pressure of, as they say now, positivity, as soon as your well produces water.

How to drill a well with your own hands? Review of three drilling methods

If you have made a deliberate decision to provide your suburban area with water, then it is best to use wells. You can drill wells on your own, and if you intend to do this, then this article will be useful to you. But it is better to entrust the installation of a water supply system to specialists, because it requires considerable experience and knowledge.

Choosing a location for a well

To begin with, we must choose the right location for the future well, as well as so that it is as efficient as possible. We need to determine whether there is a shallow aquifer on the site, for which there are certain signs.

Signs of a shallow aquifer present on the site

In a specific area of the site, many plants that prefer high humidity have accumulated.
In the evening, in areas with an increased amount of vegetation, fog and dew accumulate, and in winter time thawed patches form in the snow.
A large number of mosquitoes and other insects gather. It is also believed that cats prefer to rest in places located above deep waters.

If at least one of these signs is noticed, then you can safely start drilling a well. These are all, of course, signs that are largely folk, more effective way identifying deep waters is geological research.

Folk" method of detecting deep waters

Tools that will be required during the drilling process

Let’s immediately make a reservation that not all tools can be made with your own hands; some of them will have to be purchased. If we manage to make, for example, a drill, its quality will be questionable, because standard factory drills are made of high-strength hardened steel.

For work we will need:

Derrick;
Drill column to which couplings are attached for connection;
Drill head;
Boards;
Rope;
Filter.

A drilling derrick is a kind of tripod that you can assemble with your own hands from thick logs Ø15 centimeters. Between two of them we attach a winch, to which we suspend the drill column using a rope. The column is a structure of rods connected to each other by couplings and threads. There should be 6 rods in total, their length should be from 1.5 to 3 meters.

The boards will be useful to us so that the walls of the pit do not crumble (we will talk later what this is). Drill heads are various types and are used depending on the type of soil. Much depends on this type, including the method of drilling the well.

Types of drill heads

Drill heads come in the following types:

a chisel used to split hard rocks;
bailer - it removes the soil remaining after the bit has worked (you can also drill loose soil using a bailer);
a spoon used for sand and clay;
a coil will be needed if there is gravel in the soil;
spoon with a coil.

We have selected the tools and proceed directly to drilling.

Well drilling technology using the cable method

The percussion-rope drilling method consists of the following stages.

Stage 1. Preliminary “instruction”. Before starting work, we must understand that the optimal well depth is 7-10 meters. You can drill no more than 20 meters on your own; if the groundwater is at a greater depth, then specialists must do the drilling.

Important! It is impossible to drill a well on your own in any case, since this will require at least two assistants.

Stage 2. We align the pit (rectangular “box”) in the place where the well will be located. The dimensions of the pit should be 2x1.5x1.5 m, and it is needed so that the unstable upper layers of soil do not crumble. We take boards and line the walls of the pit.

Stage 3. We mount the tripod at the drilling site. We securely fasten it, then place the drill column in the hole and turn the rod. The drilling process has begun. Every 60-70 centimeters we clean the column from adhering soil.

Stage 4. When we reach the aquifer, the drill column should be pulled out and the filter lowered in its place. We will definitely use a filter, otherwise the water pump will quickly become unusable. The voids formed between the walls of the well and the filter are filled with sand. Then we install pipes through which the water will rise and dismantle the walls of the pit. We fill in the well.

Stage 5. We install a water pump, which will be the “core” of the entire well. Outwardly, it will not look very attractive, so it is advisable to decorate it with some decorative element, for example, a canopy.

In this way we can drill a well up to 20 meters. Water located at such a depth has repeatedly undergone natural filtration, it will be clean and soft.

Well pipes and filter

A well filter is as important a part as a pump. Distinguish following types filters:

Gravel;
Wire;
Reticulate.

During operation, it is advisable to fill the filter with gravel, which will prevent dirt from entering the pipeline. When choosing a filter, we must pay attention to the following parameters:

Options for arranging pipes for water lifting

If the water is planned to be consumed as food, then plastic water should be used, which does not corrode. If finances allow, you can buy more expensive enameled steel pipes.
If the well is intended for economic purposes, then we can use socketed, thin-walled or threaded pipes.

Drilling a well using a pump

This method is perfect if the depth of groundwater does not exceed 10 meters. It is no less effective than the previous one.

Stage 1. We dig a hole 1.5 meters deep in order to remove loose and unstable upper layers of soil. The area of such a pit should be approximately 1 square meter. We line its walls with boards to make it convenient to work.

Stage 2. Let's take it steel pipe and cut one end of it with teeth, like on a hacksaw. We bend the teeth in different directions. At the other end we make a thread for connecting to the pipes. Next, using clamps, we equip the pipe with handles so that it can be held vertically. We also make threads on the remaining pipes, but on both sides. Each pipe should be approximately 3 meters long.

Stage 3. We take a pre-prepared container of at least two hundred liters filled with water, a medium-power water pump, and a hose that will reach the bottom of the pit. All pipes must have a diameter of 12 cm, more is possible.

Important! This procedure cannot be completed by yourself either; you must have at least one assistant.

Stage 4. We insert the pipe into the hole to the maximum possible depth. Turn on the pump. The water pressure will erode the soil under the pipe, and it will gradually sink. It is advisable to constantly rotate the pipe.

Stage 5. The water will come out of the pipe, but can be reused by straining it through a sieve. When the pipe is completely deepened, we attach the next one to it and continue working until the aquifer is reached. Then we remove the boards and dig a hole, and attach a lid to the end of the pipe, which will prevent debris from entering the system.

This is the simplest way to drill a well, but there are others.

Shallow well for economic purposes

If water is needed, for example, to water a garden, then a well for this can be made using a conventional hand drill. The only condition is that the upper groundwater level must be a maximum of three meters from the surface. If the length of a hand drill is not enough, then we extend it with reinforcing bars or small metal pipes. How to install f , You can read in our article.

We go through the hardest layers of the earth with an additional load that clings to the handle of the drill. This way the load on your hands will be less.

Important! Water extracted from such wells is not suitable for drinking, since it has not undergone natural filtration!

If branches or roots come across while drilling, we cut them out with an ax pre-attached to a long iron rod. After about two meters, wet sand will begin to appear, so every 10 centimeters the drill will have to be pulled out for cleaning, otherwise we may break the device.

When the sand acquires a bluish tint, it will mean that we are almost there. When the first water appears, you can no longer use the drill, because it will no longer give anything - the liquid soil will not stick to the blades. All we have to do is insert the casing pipe - the shallow well is ready!

To lift the water we will use a conventional electric pump.

As a conclusion

Production drills are amazing in their scale, which is why the very idea of drilling a well with our own hands seems stupid and unfeasible to us. But those of you who have read the article already know that this is, to put it mildly, an exaggeration. All we need is a drilling tool, Additional materials, a bit of skill and, of course, patience.

I haven't personally tried it in practice. this method, but cited an article by a friend of mine who does this for money.

I think this will be interesting to you, and I personally will try this method in the summer. Might come in handy in the future. The principle is quite simple. I made an animated picture showing how this should happen. Now let's see: first you need to buy 2 pumps, two barrels, hoses and pipes. Several 6-meter bars and of course pipe couplings. Using a shovel, dig a hole approximately 1 meter x 1 meter and 60 cm deep. The pipes should be approximately 2 meters long (longer is possible). Threads must be cut at both ends of the pipes. Later, when the pipe goes into the ground, a second pipe is screwed to it using a sleeve, and so on until you go deep to the desired depth.

The first pipe has teeth on one side that can be made with a grinder, and the second side of the pipe has a thread. First, you screw an adapter onto it with an end part for your hose. I was recommended to cut pipes 4-6 meters long. This way there is less hassle with unscrewing the adapter, and the weight of the structure becomes greater, which allows the pipe to cut into the ground more quickly. So, first things first. First, we make a tripod out of timber and place it over the dug hole. At the top of the tripod we attach a roller through which we pass the rope. It is better to secure the tripod by connecting the three legs at the bottom and in the middle with the same beam. A little further from the tripod we hammer a wooden or metal pin. It’s even better to make a drum like for raising water from a well. We attach one end of the rope to it. We tie the other one to the pipe.

We insert the pipe with the connected fitting into the hole. Next we move on to the barrels. Next to the pit, one barrel is placed on the ground, the second on a platform made from improvised materials at a height top level the first barrel. We drill a hole at the bottom of the upper barrel and insert a pipe with a tap there. We fill the top barrel with dry grass, which serves as a kind of filter, and place a mesh on top obliquely. The mesh will clean out large fractions of soil that got in with the water, then this soil will simply fall down. The grass filters small parts of the soil and flows from the upper barrel to the lower one.

There is a pump in the bottom barrel that takes water and delivers it under pressure into your pipe. The water comes out from the bottom of the pipe and washes away the soil. This cloudy suspension ends up in your hole. The second soil pump pumps muddy water into the upper barrel. In this case, a small part of the soil gets into the barrel with water. The main part of it begins to grow out of the hole before our eyes. After some time, you remove it with a shovel.

Thus, the pipe itself is buried, and the soil is thrown up like a geyser. You just need to throw away the soil and watch the level of the washed-out soil.

THE FOLLOWING METHOD IS PERSONALLY TESTED BY ME.

I don’t use a casing pipe, drill, headstock, bailer, etc. for this... The pipe for such a well, in my opinion, is needed 5-10 cm, and no more: it completely ensures an uninterrupted supply of water using a household high-performance pump. The method is as simple as twice two. At the same time, you do not pay the drillers, and at the beginning of 2007 this costs approximately 30-45 thousand rubles. Digging a well also costs a lot. Without the cost of the rings, you will pay approximately a thousand American tugriks. And if you are not a rich person and the few bucks you save is a significant amount of your family budget, then this topic is definitely for you.

First you need to stock up on pipes. I recommend pipes with a diameter of approximately 5 cm. The length of the pipes should be approximately 1.5 - 2 meters. Take 8 pieces just in case. Cut threads at the ends of the pipes and buy bushings so that you can connect the pipes with bushings. Buy also a steel rod. Its length should be 2-2.5 meters. The rod also has threads at the ends and connecting sleeves of its own diameter. You will also need to make a steel cone, the diameter of which is larger than the diameter of the pipe. We weld a piece of pipe with cut longitudinal slots to it. These cracks should subsequently be wrapped with mesh. They are a filter. You can weld strips of hard steel to the cone (for example, pieces of a sharpened flat file), but only so that upon impact, these strips create a slight rotation in the direction of twisting the pipes. Next we do the following:

The pipe is clogged (and thereby a well is formed) using your composite rod, consisting of two pieces of steel rod dia. 20-30 mm. and 2.5 m long, with threads at the ends. This rod is lowered inside the pipe (filter) and rests against a cone welded to the filter. Together with a partner, having installed the filter vertically along a plumb line, we take the bar with our hands, lift it up and sharply lower it - in short, we hit it. The impact of the rod falls on the cone. When the filter is deep, tow soaked in paint is wound onto its threaded part, then a coupling is screwed in, and the next piece of pipe 2 ... 2.5 m long is screwed into it. If the rod is short, extend it and hit it again. Having driven to a depth of 3-6 meters, we check whether there is water in the well. We take a bucket of water and pour it into the pipe (do not pull out the rod). If the water is standing in the pipe; does not go away, which means we have not reached the aquifer. We beat another meter, check again by pouring water. Aquifers come in layers, so, in my opinion, it is more rational to drill a well into the second aquifer, or at least to the bottom of the first layer. And the layer can be up to 10 meters thick.

It is not always reasonable to test the aquifer by pouring water into a pipe. In some cases, the water goes into the sand layer. After all, I can’t check which layer I’ve reached. If the water is slowly leaving, then we are theoretically at the beginning of the aquifer; we break through another 0.5-1 m, fill with water. Now the water should quickly go into the pipe - we have reached the aquifer. We start to pull out the bar, but it doesn’t move, it’s jammed. Don’t be upset, take a hammer and hit the bar, but not from above, but from the side from the top. With these impacts you create vibration, and the soil that has entered the pipe through the filter mesh is “liquefied” and the rod is released. Having pulled out the rod, we screw the fitting with the pump onto the well. Can be manual or electric. After pumping out two or three buckets muddy water usually comes out clean.

It is advisable to pump out a couple of two hundred liter barrels. You will be convinced of the quantity of water and its quality. Then we pour clean water into the pan and boil it, and then taste it to see what quality it is. If it is bad, then after boiling it becomes reddish or cloudy, and sediment will fall to the bottom. Then you will have to deepen the well another meter. Not to be confused with limewater sediment if it comes through limestone rock.

It also happens: after a few years, the water in the well disappears (the electric pump does not “take” it, but the manual pump pumps very slowly). This is a sign of a clogged filter. Many people flush wells with various solutions. I argue that this has little effect in practice; such flushing only poisons the aquifer. It is easier and more reliable to pull the filter out of the ground, but this is not always possible. This happens quite rarely with a competent approach to the matter, and in this case you have to use a truck crane or a jack. In this case, you need to lower the rod into the well and hit the cone a dozen times, then apply the listed mechanisms. After 10-20 cm, the rise stops again; you need to hit it again, and after 2 hours you will pull out the filter. As a rule, it turns out to be covered with a black oily coating. Fill up with water, pour over the filter and scrub it over the mesh with a metal brush. For better cleaning, pour in “silite”, which will remove rust from everything. Gradually the plaque is washed off.

Check the pipes too: sometimes rust makes small fistulas in them. Because of this, the integrity is compromised and the well may not work (due to air leaks or soil getting into fistulas). It is better, of course, to replace the pipes with new ones. And again you can drive them in the same place where the well was before.

This method has been tested in practice. Hundreds of wells have been drilled using this method. All are still working today. Some were driven to a depth of more than 20 meters, into artesian layers of water.

You can drill a water well on your property, despite the seeming enormity of this process. on our own, i.e. manually. To do this, you will need a metal auger, the so-called coil, for which a fishing ice ax is quite suitable. This method of drilling a water well is the cheapest possible.

Required Tools and materials for drilling a water well:

The main tool that will be used is an auger with extension arms; in the absence of a special one, you can safely use a fishing drill. For better process efficiency, it is recommended to weld reinforced cutters onto the cutting edges of the drill. For this purpose, you can use a couple of files, which can be sharpened with an ordinary grinder. And of course the pipes for the elbows, the diameter of which is 25 mm.

You will also need a shovel, a cart for removing the selected soil, a pump and a hose for “swinging” the well, a barrel or a high table on which you will need to stand and sift out the gravel.

Preparing the pipe for lowering into the well

Before lowering pipes into a well, they must be properly prepared. This is an important point, because the drilled section tightens very quickly and the pipes must be lowered immediately after removing the drill. Pipes can be purchased at specialized construction stores; thick-walled polyethylene pipes are best suited.

Preparation of the pipe consists of drilling perforating holes, approximately at a distance of 0.5-1.0 meters from the bottom end and over a distance of 1.5-2 meters. It is enough to make the holes with a 6 mm drill; if you make them wider, you will need a filter mesh.

Then guide bars are prepared, which are attached to the surface of the pipe. The bars are necessary to center the pipe in the well and provide equal clearance in order to evenly distribute the filter gravel screenings.

Technology for drilling a well manually using an auger

The place where the well will be installed must first be leveled. To begin with, a guide recess for the drill is dug to a depth of 2 shovel bayonets. Having assembled the tool, you can proceed directly to the drilling process itself.

On initial stage it is quite possible for one person to rotate the drill, but as you go deeper it will be necessary additional help. The deeper the drill goes, the harder it will be to rotate it, so you can use water to soften the soil. Making two or three full turns, the drill is pulled out and freed from the soil, dumping it into the cart. The sludge is poured away from the work site so that it does not create additional interference.

Thus, they drill until the tool handle drops to the ground. After this, the drill is extended with an additional elbow.

After the handle has been lengthened, naturally the size of the tool no longer allows working with it while standing on the ground. Just for this case, you need a metal barrel or other pedestal, standing on which you can rotate the drill by the handle. Or they use gas pipe wrenches for the handle.

Increasing the bends, drilling continues until entering the aquifer. This moment will be very clearly visible from the condition of the soil being removed. At this phase, it is possible for the tool to be tightened, so you should remove the cuttings in small portions, otherwise it will not be possible to pull out the drill manually. If, nevertheless, the drill is “sucked in”, so that it can no longer be pulled out by hand, you will have to resort to an Archimedean lever, using two logs and a barrel for this, or buy a lever chain winch.

To prevent high water from entering the well, its depth must be greater than the first clay layer. Before lowering the pipe, it is necessary to raise and lower the drilling tool several times, like a piston. This will remove possible obstacles in the way of the pipe and make its descent much easier. After the pipe is completely lowered, the gap should be filled with gravel screenings - this is usually a sand-gravel mixture screened from sand. Without sand, as sand can penetrate inside the well.

How to pump a well

In order to quickly pump the well, it is better to use a powerful centrifugal pump. Such a pump is capable of handling very dense media. Although you can get by with a regular household pump. In order for the vibration pump to work more efficiently, you should periodically lift it and shake the water with your assembled knees to lift heavy particles from the bottom, and then continue pumping water again with a pump with a lower water intake, otherwise top fence The water pump will contribute to silting of the well.

When the well is rocked, the filter gravel screenings will shrink, so it should be added periodically.

The process of rocking the well is quite time-consuming, so you should worry about the drainage channels or try to reach the drainage ditch with a hose.

Once the well is fully pumped, it should be equipped with a pump for everyday use.

Advantages and disadvantages of manual water well drilling

The advantage of manual drilling of wells, in addition to the low cost already mentioned above, is the fact that there is no need for bulky special equipment to enter the site, therefore, your green spaces or landscape design will not be harmed.

Having a relatively shallow depth, such wells are pumped much faster and are less susceptible to tightening.

If there is no electricity, water can be obtained using a hand suction pump.

The main disadvantage of manual drilling is the limited depth. Disadvantages include criticality to soil density and a shortage of specialists ready to undertake repairs if necessary, although this has a lower probability of occurrence than with deep machine wells.

Video on how to drill a well manually with your own hands:

Water on summer cottage– an important and necessary resource. Using a remote source will be much easier and cheaper than organizing central water supply. Carrying water in a bucket, especially in large quantities, is extremely inconvenient, and its quality may be poor. Therefore, in comparison with a well, a well has a number of undeniable advantages. Water is taken from interstratal or artesian waters, which makes the reserves practically inexhaustible. How to drill a water well yourself?

Well for water at home in a summer cottage

Installation is carried out if direct water supply is not possible. It is especially important to use a well on garden plots and in populated areas where there is no urban water supply:

A remote source provides independence from the water supply and greatly reduces the cost of using water, making it an economically profitable investment.
The water coming from a well is much cleaner than tap water and well water.
The reserves are almost inexhaustible (water is available without interruption all year round).
There will be no problems with watering crops and feeding livestock.
Possibility to install cold/hot water and sewerage (will make favorable conditions residence in the house).
No pipe corrosion.

You should approach the issue of drilling a well responsibly. Everything must be taken into account important factors, such as the purpose of use and the number of people who will use it.

If you are unsure of your choice or doubt something, you should consult with experts in these matters.

You should not save when choosing a drilling method. A well that is dug incorrectly can lead to pump failure, collapse of the hole walls, short circuit, and other various problems. Water must be taken from certain layers of soil. Among the disadvantages, it should be noted the purchase of pumps and equipment according to.

Is it possible to drill a well yourself?

Well drilling labor-intensive process, because its length can vary from 8 to 260 meters. The depth of the hole depends on the location of the limestone layer. Therefore, before carrying out work, you need to study the structure and location of the soil layers, which only specialists can do.

Drilling a well with your own hands is not difficult, it is quite difficult to get into a certain layer of soil and create strong walls for the hole. Water collected from a well is most often used for internal consumption. Therefore, if you are not confident in your abilities, then you should not risk the health and life of yourself, your family and friends - it is better to entrust drilling to people experienced in such matters.

Types of structures

The scope of work performed depends on the level at which they lie necessary waters and on the composition of the soil:

Well(well - needle). Excellent filling capacity is due to the correct location of the spring; it accumulates up to 3 m³ of water. If necessary, another well should be made (at the greatest possible distance from the first). Depth not lower than 12 m. Mandatory soil composition: sand or sand-crushed stone.
Well filtering water through a layer of sand. A pipe with a diameter of 10 cm is dug to a depth of 20 to 50 meters into a layer of sand. At the end there is a mesh that acts as a filter.
Limestone artesian well(without a filter). The water supply comes from layers of porous limestone. This source is the deepest (from 20 to 200 meters) and has the longest service life. Drilling requires special equipment and specialists.

Choosing a location for a well

The place where the well should be located. The type of well, the location of the storage well, the pipes of the filter well, the location for irrigation and will require quite a lot of space depend on this choice.

The existence of a shallow aquifer is indicated by the following signs:

Weeds and flowers that love high humidity were localized in one specific place.
There is a large concentration of mosquitoes and midges in this place.
In such an area, fog occurs in the evening and in the morning. In winter, thawed patches appear.
Cats love to rest in this place.

All signs of the presence of a shallow aquifer are indirect and folk. A more accurate result would be a geological survey.

Experts will determine how far deep water is from the surface. This, in turn, will solve the problem of choosing a drilling method.

Independent methods of drilling wells

Drilling is the passage special tool soil and removal of destroyed rocks to the surface. The production ends at the desired aquifer. is based on screwing drilling tools into rock or breaking up soil.

When drilling a source with your own hands, you need tools and equipment. Not everything you need can be made yourself from scrap materials and found in your arsenal. You will have to purchase something in advance from the store.

Rotary method

Tools:

drill (chisel);
derrick;
casing;
rods and winch.

This method is used by most people (about 80%). Drilling occurs only after a thorough study of the composition of the soil and its hydrogeological component. The soil is destroyed using a drill (chisel). The rotor rotates it using pipes. Lifting and immersing the drill to great depths is carried out using a special drilling rig. When digging shallow wells, the drilling rig can be pulled out manually.

A tower, if needed, is placed directly above the hole. The guide recess should be dug into 2 bayonets of the shovel. Water will help facilitate the rotation of the drill when it is deeply buried. Moving every meter (or 0.5 meters), it is worth clearing the drill from the soil.

The thread bits are made of steel (about 3 mm). When sharpening the edge, remember that the drill rotates clockwise - from left to right. The diameter of the bits allows work to be done inside the casing pipes (needed to prevent collapse and blocking of aquifers).

Development starts with large diameter and gradually decreases. After using all the casing tubes, the production string, which is located in the aquifer, is lowered inside. It is determined by the condition of the earth that is pulled out of the hole. Drilling occurs to the next layer - the waterproof one.

In order to remove dirty water, you can use manual or submersible pump. If after 3 - 4 buckets the dirt has not disappeared, the well is deepened by 1.5 - 2 meters. Then you should pump the water until it is visually clean. After this it can be used.

After 15-20 days, it is necessary to analyze the water from the well.

Drilling with a drill and pump

Required Tools:

drill;
pump;
gas keys;
casing;
Bulgarian;
welding machine.

The occurrence of the aquifer is not lower than 20 meters. Soil: sand, loam, clay, sandy loam and in some cases layers of limestone. The drill is made from a water pump, onto which a low-speed drill is attached using a grinder and welding.

First you need to make a hole with a simple drill. After this, you should insert a hydraulic drill into the well and continue drilling. For the first meters, you can use a stand or stool; subsequent passage of rocks occurs thanks to extended pipes. You can pump water from a well at your dacha using a hand or submersible pump.

Percussion-rope drilling

Materials:

derrick;
cable or rope;
casing;
drilling attachment (steel knives or crown);

The tower is made from ordinary logs or pipes and secured with wire. It has the shape of a tripod and is at least 2 meters high. Drilling occurs by raising/lowering a special glass. The lower part of the glass is equipped with a “crown” or other attachments that crush and capture the rock.

The glass is attached from above with a rope or cable to the tripod. At a pipe distance of about half a meter, it is necessary to make a hole through which the earth is removed. This should be done every 0.5 m.

Drilling with various devices

To make a well (mostly filtering through sand), people use various devices. Ordinary garden auger is not very convenient for creating such wells, so it is remade or a completely homemade device is made.

How to make using a food processor

Materials:

agricultural machine auger;
rod pipes;
welding machine;
steel plates;
casing.

The combine auger can be adapted to make a hand drill. Tubes - rods will increase the height of the column, and their end is bent in the shape of a screw. Steel plates (at least 3 mm) are welded on top for drilling and pulling out the earth.

To screw the rods, you need to attach threaded couplings and a long transverse handle (this makes drilling easier) to screw in the auger on top of the pipe. Drilling up to 10-15 meters.

Drill by hand with an ice auger

Tools:

fishing ice screw;
rod pipes;
casing;
shovel and wheelbarrow.

A fishing ice ax will perfectly replace a drill. Homemade pipes - rods (up to 20-25 mm) can increase the height. It is possible to strengthen existing cutters with your own hands by welding steel plates to them. You can build a tripod from logs or pipes to pull the ice auger to the surface if necessary. Drilling up to 10 – 15 meters.

How much does it cost to drill a well at your dacha yourself?

How much does it cost? The cost of drilling from specialized organizations ranges from 800 to 1300 rubles per linear meter, excluding the cost of pipes. Therefore, the total price for the work ranges from 8,000 to 260,000 rubles. Casing pipes cost from 450 rubles/meter (plastic) and up to 1500 rubles/meter (steel).

Each well needs them different quantities, so the price for the bottom is very different (as is the location of the aquifer): from 4,500 to 300,000 rubles. Total from 12,500 to 560,000 rubles.

Calculation for each method:

Rotary method: drill from 1800 from 4000 rubles + tower from 300 rubles (for wire) to 4000 rubles + 6000 rubles rods + 1800/4000 rubles winch + 1000/2000 rubles small materials. Total, without the cost of pipes, it comes out to approximately 10,900 to 20,000 rubles.
For drilling with a drill and pump: drill and grinder 3000 rubles + welding machine 2000 rubles + wrenches 600 rubles + pump 4000 rubles + other consumables 2000/3000 rubles. Total it comes out to about 12,000 or 13,000 rubles excluding the cost of pipes.
Drilling by cable-percussion method: rope or cable 700/1500 rubles + tower from 300 (wire) to 4000 rubles + drill bits from 400 to 5000 rubles + 2000/3000 rubles for other consumables. Total, excluding casing pipes, the price for drilling will range from 3,400 to 13,500 rubles.
Drilling with a combine: welding machine 2000 rubles + pipes about 4000 rubles + drill bits from 400 to 5000 rubles + 2000/3000 rubles other expenses. Total it turns out from 8400 to 14000 rubles.
Drilling with a fishing ice drill: ice auger 2500/5000 rubles + pipes from 4000 rubles + shovel 250/2750 rubles + wheelbarrow 450/2500 rubles + 2000 other consumables. Total, without the cost of pipes, it turns out from 9200 to 16250 rubles.

On the one hand, drilling a well yourself makes the process much cheaper. On the other hand, this activity requires a lot of time, effort, and intelligence. The disadvantage of such a source is the limited depth, because you can do it yourself artesian well very hard.

The positive side of independently drilling a well on the site will be the absence of bulky equipment and its consequences, and the rapid pumping of the source to clean water.

No country house can exist without normal water supply. Carry water with you when visiting a dacha in weekend days? This option is not even considered, since it is unlikely to be enough even for household needs. Constantly annoying your neighbors with requests to replenish their water supply? This is possible only for the time being - there is a limit to every human patience... A source of water will be all the more necessary if country house is planned for a long time or even permanent residence, and on the adjacent plot there is a desire to grow some flowers or crops. The solutions are to connect to the centralized water supply system (in most cases this is simply impossible or is associated with too large financial costs), or to equip a source of autonomous water supply on your territory.

Video: surface well development

All these issues will definitely be discussed in a separate publication on our construction portal.