Bogorodsk knife drawing. Bogorodsk knives - easy and simple

A few months ago, this note of mine was already published on one of the sites dedicated to wood carving. I think it would be useful to duplicate it with minor changes here on the blog.

Classic Bogorodsk knives are usually made from Robel saws (the so-called “rapid”), but one day a steel with slightly different properties was needed, from which it would be possible to make a knife with a slightly flexible blade for working out some internal areas slotted thread. As source material For the blades, a rather exotic contraption was chosen - a knife from a Chinese chopstick machine. The steel is 1 mm thick, of course, of a completely unknown brand, but it has good cutting properties and was clearly not produced in the era of the “Great Leap Forward”.

I decided to make four knives at once with blades 124x16, 96x14, 76x12 and 44x10 mm, with straight bevels at the ends of the blades, approximately equal to twice the width of the blade. Let's get down to business.

We mark the workpiece and cut it with a grinder, not forgetting to water it with water to cool it. Four rectangular pieces will be used for knife blades, one piece will be used for another “hatchet”, the rest will also be good for something...

On sharpening machine We form the blades and shanks according to the specified dimensions. Using a metal ruler, we check the straightness of the butt and especially the future cutting edge. The bevel on the end of the blade will be done at the very end of the process, on a fully finished sharpened knife. If you make a bevel at the blade forming stage, you can very easily burn the tip of the blade when sharpening.

Let's start making the handles. Material - well-dried birch bars. We mark a central line at the end of the block, and on it the width of the shank. We drill several holes with a drill to the depth of the shank. Instead of a drill, it is better to use a regular nail of a suitable diameter, cutting off its head on a sharpening machine. A drill of small diameter can easily break in a block and the stuck fragment cannot always be pulled out. The nail won't break. Yes, I don’t feel sorry for him...

We “mill” the groove with the same nail.

Pour epoxy glue into the grooves. We clamp the knife blade in a vice through wooden or rubber gaskets, leaving only the shank and a few millimeters of the blade outside. By hitting the end of the block with a mallet, we place the piece of wood on the metal. We place the handles vertically and from time to time we coat the place where the blade enters the block with the remaining glue until it stops being absorbed into the wood. By this we sufficiently strengthen the most potentially weakness handles All further work leave with knives for the next day. We will continue it after the glue has completely hardened.

The next day…
Using a cardboard template (pictured on the left), we draw the profile of the handle on the block.

Cut along the contour with a jigsaw.

On a grinding wheel for wood, first we slightly narrow both sides of the handle in the direction from the rear end of the handle to the blade, then we make rounded chamfers on the upper (convex) part of the handle and finally we round the rear end of the handle. In the absence of this unit, all these operations can, of course, be done manually, but this will take a little more time.

We remove the chamfers on the lower part of the handle with a knife, gradually narrowing the edges. (If not grinding wheel- with a knife we do everything that is written about above).

Then the following are used in succession: rasp, coarse- and medium-grained skins (preferably on tissue based). At this stage, the final formation of the handle is made.

We form the slopes of the blade on a sharpening machine. Since in in this case steel with a thickness of only 1 mm was used, and a double-sided straight wedge-shaped sharpening was chosen.

Of course, we hold the knife in TWO hands, and not as in this and several subsequent photos. I just have a camera in my left hand. There was no one nearby to take pictures from the side.

We create the cutting edge on a water stone (or on a fine-grained abrasive wheel). The edge on the stone is only along the path of the stone, never towards the path.

KNIFE IN TWO HANDS!

After the formation of a burr on cutting edge We straighten the blade on a felt wheel with GOI paste until the burr gradually disappears.

KNIFE IN TWO HANDS AND ONLY WALKING IN A CIRCLE! MANY HAVE ALREADY BEEN VERIFIED THAT A KNIFE POSITIONED WITH THE BLADE TO MEET THE ROTATION OF THE CIRCLE INSTANTLY TRANSFORMS THE FELT INTO A CLOUD OF GREEN RAGS, AND THE KNIFE ITSELF, KNOCKED OUT OF THE HANDS, FLYS IN AN UNPREDICTABLE TRAJECTORY!

(Some kind of a kind person, God bless him, he furrowed the circle with his chisels the day before).

Let's work a little with our hands. Touchstone (if necessary) and leather with GOI paste. Bring the blade to razor sharpness.

Let's take the handle again. There are options here depending on personal preference. For example, I burn her from all sides in the flame gas burner. And not to the point of slight darkening, but to the formation of a uniform charcoal blackness over the entire surface of the wood.

Using medium and fine grain sandpaper, I give the handles this look in a few minutes. I have already written about the advantages of burnt birch handles in other posts. Convenient, comfortable and no blisters. But in Lately I still cover the burnt handles with 2-3 layers linseed oil. You can, of course, coat the handles with oil or varnish without any firing.

At this stage, it is advisable to wrap the sharp blade in several layers of paper and secure it with tape or tape so as not to accidentally cut yourself.

We make a bevel on the edge of the butt on the sharpening machine (for knives of this type, the bevel point on the butt is approximately twice the width of the blade). On a vulcanite wheel or water stone, remove narrow chamfers on the butt and bevel.

All. The knives are ready for use.

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Serjant 06-05-2006 10:59

In the rifled one there are notes from Flint, there will be notes from Serjanta.

So:. Let's begin.

Knife first.
Called "Bogorodsk knife"(Fig. 1). Designed for both rough and fine workmanship on wood. For rough work it means to give the workpiece the desired shape. Approximately trim so that the silhouette can be guessed. For example, whittling a spoon. For a thin one, for example, cut out fingers on a small wooden toy, cut out the face of an animal, etc. Speaking of toys. This knife got its name from the village of Bogorodskoye, Moscow region, where they cut, which has been famous throughout the world for several centuries wooden toy. As can be seen from the figure (Fig. 1), the knife is simple in shape and also simple in manufacture.

How to do Bogorodsky knife.

Would need:
1. A piece of steel. Ideal option, among wood carvers, it is considered a mechanical saw blade (they cut rails with this saw and similar pieces of iron). The grade of steel does not play a special role. It doesn’t really matter whether it’s P6, P9, P6M5 or the really tricky P3AM3F2. This is all wonderful material. The thickness of these canvases is usually 1.8:2.3 mm. We are looking for the right size piece of canvas. You can buy canvas at any construction market.
2. Tree. Or rather, a couple of linden or birch plates. Evenly planed and dry.
Why linden or birch? This wood is very good at absorbing the sweat from the hand that comes into the wood carving process. But still, linden is preferable, although it is inferior to birch in terms of fur. properties.
3. PVA glue or any other hardening wood glue. It is possible epoxy resin. Moment glue and the like are not suitable; they do not hold the glued seam.
Sharpening the blade. We choose the dimensions of the blade and shank based on what we will do with this knife. If you roughly plan wood, then we make the blade larger, 70-90 mm, more is possible, but not necessary. If delicate work, then smaller, 30-60 mm. Shank:. We leave as much as we don’t mind. On the shank, using a sharpener or grinder, we make a bunch of “teeth”, notches or whatever else you call them. This will serve as a good fastener in the tree. Sharpening the blade razor sharpening The clay will make the cut softer, and the blade will not get stuck in the wood. (see Fig. 1). We sharpen the blade and straighten it to the point of shaving hair (we use our own carcass). After sharpening, we wrap the blade with paper and electrical tape so as not to cut ourselves when installing and processing the handle.
We attach a shank to one of the wooden plates and trace the outline of the shank with a pencil. We hollow out a groove in the plate with a depth equal to the thickness of the blade. The blade, after being inserted into a wooden plate, should not protrude; it may even need to be slightly lower than the plane of the wood by 0.1..0.2 mm. There is no need to worry, the glue will fill this gap. In principle, you should get what is shown in Fig. 2. Using the sharp tip of a knife, apply a mesh on the wood planes to be glued together to better penetration glue. Apply glue liberally, insert the blade into the groove, and press the second plate. We tighten this entire structure with clamps or clamp it in a vice until the glue dries completely. For PVA this is usually a day.
When the glue dries, shape the handle into an oval shape. I deliberately do not give any cross-sectional dimensions; everyone can choose what suits their hand, how it will be comfortable to hold and how it will be correct. We carefully grind the handle, but without fanaticism; there is no need to grind it to a “cat-like” state. There is also no need to soak it in oil or any other nasty thing like cyanoacrylate, let the wood nourish the sweat from your hand.

Sometimes it is useful (but not necessary) on the handle, closer to the blade (step back 5 mm from the edge of the handle), to sharpen a narrow groove with a file, and wrap it with wire or thick cotton thread and soak it with glue. Make the winding not wide, 10:15 mm wide, so that the winding and the handle are flush. Such strengthening of the structure is necessary for power work or when repairing a knife, when you are lazy to make a new handle.

It is useful to have several Bogorodsk knives, different sizes and with different angles sharpening. Personally, I have 5 of them.

KNIFE - JOIN
The name comes from the fact that the knife has a beveled blade. Well, that's not the point:
The knife is used for cutting through material, cutting veneer, trimming contours, various types carvings, such as flat-relief geometric carvings, Kudrinskaya carvings, etc. This knife is also called a shoe knife, but, as far as I could find out, a shoe knife is distinguished by a one-sided (chisel) sharpening of the blade. Although not always. General form and dimensions are shown in Fig. 3

The knife manufacturing technology is exactly the same as the Bogorodsky knife. The only difference is that the handle of the knife is adjusted in such a way that it is convenient to hold the knife with a reverse grip, with the blade facing you. This is the basic holding of the knife in the hand. The number of jamb knives a carver has is also not regulated by any rules or traditions. I have about 10 of them, all different.

Lazy cat 06-05-2006 11:16

A big, truly inhuman thank you.
Just to give an example finished goods and samples of work (how and what to cut with this stuff).
(Dreams - you can make an educational film....)

Serjant 06-05-2006 11:46

A complete description of the production of the casket. I used the blunt knife and the Bogorodsky knife to the fullest extent.

drachun 15-07-2006 13:37

These handles are new.

Vik_Tor 10-03-2007 01:14

Guys, why is it so little?
There are countless shapes of wood cutters, but here I would definitely mention a cutter in the form of a small chisel. You can even make a hand hacksaw for metal out of canvas; the blade is short and not wide; such a knife sometimes makes life a lot easier.
And special thanks for the Bogorodsky knife, I haven’t used it yet.

Serjant 10-03-2007 08:52

Hmmm??? and how will the production of a “small chisel” and other knives and chisels from a piece of fur linen differ from the above technology?? blade sharpening angles?? What else do you need?? post the entire list of tools used??

The number of knives a carver has is also not regulated by any rules or traditions. Who is this hanging for??

Vik_Tor 10-03-2007 11:24

I didn’t want to offend the highly respected “beaver maniac”, if this happened - sorry.
When I read the title of the topic, I expected more, so to continue the topic I wrote about a chisel (it personally often helped me, for example, for finishing the holes for the shank) - in case it came in handy for someone. Alas, it doesn't seem to be useful :-((

McS 15-08-2007 23:07

About the chisel - useful thing. But he made them from broken needle files. It's fast and cuts well. 1mm, 2mm and 3mm, for different purposes

Serjant 15-08-2007 23:36

Compared to the cutting properties of quick-cutters, the tooling (some U10, U12 in my opinion) from which the needle files are made was not lying around...

14771 16-08-2007 16:01

quote: Originally posted by drachun:
Finished, very high-quality blades (only with round handles) are sold at VERNISAGE (Partizanskaya metro station). Climb the steps to the second tier, turn left and take twenty-seven steps....

These handles are new.

Kuznetsov is selling this. quality.

Yongert 08-01-2008 04:28

All my life I considered the one without a heel to be a joint
and the current is sharp with a heel - it was always used to cut with the heel (grandfather taught it)))
very convenient, control of force and depth of cut,
only the handle is slightly different in shape, with the end of the handle resting on the palm and
the heel protrudes further from the handle, and the handle is almost like Bogorodsky’s

Forex 08-01-2008 06:35

Yongert, it would be interesting to look at photos of your tools and work. If my grandfather taught, then the old school must show the class!!! =)

Yongert 08-01-2008 19:06

unfortunately, when I left home, everything was left there, including tools and crafts,
Now I’ve slowly started making the instrument, like free time appears.

Probably without the “Bogorodsk” knife there would have been no Bogorodsk carving. This knife is also called "PIKE".
For the Bogorodsk knife you will need:
1. A piece of steel. The ideal option for wood carvers is a mechanical saw blade (they cut rails with this saw and similar pieces of iron). The grade of steel does not play a special role. It doesn’t really matter whether it’s P6, P9, P6M5 or the really tricky P3AM3F2. This is all wonderful material. The thickness of these canvases is usually 1.8:2.3 mm. We are looking for the right size piece of canvas. You can buy canvas at any construction market.
2. Tree. Or rather, a couple of linden or birch plates. Evenly planed and dry.
Why linden or birch? This wood is very good at absorbing the sweat from the hand that comes into the wood carving process. But still, linden is preferable, although it is inferior to birch in terms of fur. properties.
3. PVA glue or any other hardening wood glue. You can also use epoxy resin. Glue "Moment" and similar ones are not suitable, they do not hold glued seam.

We choose the dimensions of the blade and shank based on what we will do with this knife. If you roughly plan wood, then we make the blade larger, 70-90 mm, more is possible, but not necessary. If delicate work, then smaller, 30-60 mm. Shank: we leave as much as we don’t mind. On the shank, using a sharpener or grinder, we make a bunch of “teeth” and notches. This will serve as a good fastener in the tree. We sharpen the blade; razor sharpening of the blade will make the cut softer, and the blade will not get stuck in the wood.
We attach a shank to one of the wooden plates and trace the outline of the shank with a pencil. We hollow out a groove in the plate with a depth equal to the thickness of the blade. The blade, after being inserted into a wooden plate, should not protrude; it may even be necessary for it to be slightly lower than the plane of the wood by 0.1 - 0.2 mm. There is no need to worry, the glue will fill this gap. Using the sharp tip of a knife, apply a mesh onto the wood planes to be glued together for better penetration of the glue. Apply glue liberally, insert the blade into the groove, and press the second plate. We tighten this entire structure with clamps or clamp it in a vice until the glue dries completely. For PVA this is usually a day.
When the glue dries, give the handle an oval shape in cross-section. It is best to make the handle on large chamfers - then it will not slip in the hand.

Better knife handles are made from whole piece tree. To do this, they split off from the log the right size a piece of wood, drill a hole from one end with a small drill and place it on the shank of the blade. This is done like this: take the top of a tree and place it on it. future knife steel blade down. From above, several blows are made with a mallet on the handle of the knife until the shank completely enters the handle. To fix the blade in the tree, the handle is placed on PVA glue, and then caps are hammered on both sides of the blade. When the steel blade sits firmly in the wood, the handle is given the required form and sharpen the knife. This type of manufacturing of handles for both knives and chisels is traditional and of higher quality. The main thing is that the blade is strictly perpendicular to the end of the handle.
It is useful to have several Bogorodsk knives, of different sizes and with different sharpening angles.

For carving, flat, semicircular, round, corner, and tube chisels are used.

Tool sharpening

The instrument is stored in special fabric cases to avoid damage and dulling of the instrument. Sharpening the tool occurs as follows:

1. Chamfering a coarse-grain abrasive wheel. The chisel rotates evenly. The blade is constantly lowered into the water, otherwise you can burn the blade.

2. With the appearance of burrs, the tool continues to be sharpened on a fine-grained wheel and the chamfer is sharpened.

3. Then the Bogorodsk knife is sharpened on chalk blocks, water is also used, and the knife is often turned over.

4. After this, the Bogorodsk knife is sharpened on a sandstone with soap and water. They also often turn over.

DIY Bogorodsky knife. Bogorodsky knife for wood carving with your own hands. How to make a Bogorodsk knife with your own hands. First of all, we select the metal.

I recommend high speed steel P 9, known from industrial hacksaw blades. People often call it “Rapid”. The steel holds the blade quite well, but is fragile and is afraid of overheating at the time of sharpening. To avoid overheating, it is necessary to cool the metal in water more often. I have made many knives for wood carving from this metal.

Use a cutting wheel to cut the workpiece to the required size.

We glue paper tape (or as it is also called) onto the workpiece masking tape) for better visibility of the pencil.

Draw a pattern of a knife blade onto the tape. There are two blades on my workpiece. Using a cutting wheel, between the marked blades, we cut grooves on both sides and break them into two pieces.

Before starting work on sharpening machine, take care of a jar of water to cool the metal.

After the blade has been peeled around the perimeter, we proceed to sharpening on both sides. Sharpen until the stripe disappears on the cutting edge. Just for fun, look at a knife that has not been sharpened for a long time from the end of the blade. You will see a thin strip as thick as a hair. It is not necessary to try sharpening the edge of the blade with your finger; just look and everything becomes clear.

After sharpening is completed, we proceed to straightening the knife blade on the side surface grinding wheel. During the editing process on both sides, a barely perceptible edge appears on the blade.

If the edge is uniform, we proceed to final finishing of the blade on a felt circle.

All that remains is to prepare the blade for installation in the handle. We grind the side grooves on the blade, which will fix the blade in the wooden workpiece.

Knife handle
To make a knife handle you will need dense and durable wood. You can use oak, ash, beech, etc.

I used oak wood. It took two small planks 4 mm and 7 mm thick.