Floor screed is, as you know, the basis of everything. Leveling and concreting the floor is necessary, first of all, to create a base on which it will be laid. fine coating. In this article, you will get everything necessary information about making a screed with your own hands.
Which is better? How to do it correctly? How to use beacons? You will receive comprehensive answers to all these questions, supplemented with photo and video materials.
The key to a perfectly even screed is the use of special beacon slats. They serve to ensure that the level cement mortar was the same over the entire surface of the room.
That is why, installation of beacons for floor screed - the most important stage the whole process. Treat it with the utmost care.
So, as you can see in the photo, metal beacons fixed to the floor using the usual mortar that you will use. But before that, make sure you have everything in stock necessary materials and tools:
- metal beacons, on the basis that the distance between them should be 100-150 centimeters;
- special solution for screed;
- masters for convenience;
- large basin and access to water (for stirring the solution) as in the video;
- bubble levels of different sizes;
- damper tape around the entire perimeter of the room;
- The rule is to level the screed with your own hands.
First of all, you need to mark the floor in order to understand where and at what distance to attach the beacons and how to make a screed in general. Near the walls, the distance to the beacons should be 20-30 centimeters, the distance between the beacons can be different, depending on the length of your rule; for small spaces, small distances of 100-150 centimeters are most convenient. Beacons are laid only in one plane.
In advance, it is worth attaching a damper tape to the wall, which will become a “layer” between the screed and the walls.
We put beacons on the floor
In order to secure the beacon to the floor along the entire length of the intended installation, we make small tubercles from the ready-made screed solution. After this, before the solution hardens, we recess the beacons in the solution and begin to level them using bubble levels.
Important! If the solution remains above the level after leveling the beacon, it must be leveled to the level of the beacon.
You need to very carefully measure the level of not only a single lighthouse, but all of them at once and in different planes. To do this, you can use either a thread stretched across it or any available means.
When all the beacon strips are installed and aligned, you need to wait until the solution attaching them to the walls hardens.
Preparing the screed solution
Today, construction stores and markets offer a large variety of ready-made dry mixtures for do-it-yourself floor screed. Which one to choose is up to you. The main thing is to carefully read the information on the bags and their areas of application before purchasing a batch of the mixture.
Ideally, choose well-known brands that have been proven over the years, but in some cases you can use less famous brands, nose good recommendations from familiar builders.
To prepare the solution you will need a large container, water and a mixing tool. Usually, in ready mixture you just need to add water in the proportions indicated on the bag and mix thoroughly.
You can watch the video below the article to see how to make a screed.
Note that it is better to measure the amount of water carefully, because... A lack or excess of moisture in the screed can significantly affect its quality.
Some masters cook the old fashioned way mortar for floor screed cement-sand mortar . This is also appropriate, but more labor-intensive, because... in this case, you have to take into account the brand of concrete and the amount of sand to maintain the required proportions. Such a solution will ultimately cost a little less than the finished mixture, so here are the proportions for the mixture:
In ordinary rooms, the concrete grade M150 is suitable, in rooms with increased load - M200. Which screed is better? It all depends on your preferences and operating conditions. If you want to do everything yourself, quickly and easily, use ready-made dry mixes.
Important point! The floor screed solution must be prepared gradually, because... its hardening time is usually only a few hours. Therefore, it is better to knead the mixture in small volumes.
DIY floor screed
When the beacons are installed and the first portion of the solution is mixed, it’s time to start pouring the screed. There are no special rules or tricks to this; anyone can do it.
So, the whole point is to fill the space between the beacons with screed solution for the floor with your own hands. Leveling is done using a rule, or, in extreme cases, a flat board or block. You can simply pour the solution onto the floor using a bucket, as shown in the video below.
By the way, if there is a need to strengthen the floor, it is recommended to lay reinforced mesh in the screed.
So, guided by the beacons and gradually mixing new portions of the solution, all the voids are filled and leveled. The result is a perfectly flat and durable surface.
How should the screed dry?
Depending on what dry mixture you use, the drying conditions for the screed may vary. In some cases, a few days will be enough for complete hardening. Sometimes (in the case of using cement-sand mixtures), you will have to “look after” the screed with your own hands, watering it daily with plenty of water.
The most versatile, durable and durable option The flooring is a cement screed that can withstand temperature changes and is resistant to moisture. To achieve excellent result, it is necessary to strictly follow the operating technology.
Most often, the floor is leveled with the most popular, budget and in an accessible way- using cement and sand. A cement surface (as seen in the photo of the floor screed) is able to repel fats, acids and conducts heat well.
In order to save budget funds and be confident in the reliability of the work performed, many residential property owners wonder: how to make a floor screed with your own hands?
And this process is not fast, but quite accessible, even to a self-taught master.
What does the screed consist of?
This composition is quite easy to knead yourself, if you have the following components:
- water (2 parts);
- sand (3 parts);
- cement (1 part).
To make the screed as dense and reliable as possible, it is worth adding any adhesive substance - a plasticizer - to the solution. Adhesive compositions can be purchased at finished form at any hardware store.
A mortar of cement and sand can be placed on brick, concrete and stone. The solution is laid to a maximum thickness of 10 centimeters. If the layer is less than 3 centimeters, it is better to use a reinforcement method to avoid cracks.
Main types of cement screed
When screeding a floor in a house, different types are used, depending on the goal that needs to be achieved in the end:
- Screed using a floating structure with insulating layers.
- A screed that is connected to the surface of the wall and floor.
- Cement screed, independent of surface type.
Preparing for work
Before starting work with cement screed, it is necessary to properly prepare work surface. That is, you need to clean the floor in the room and carefully level it before work.
There is a situation when the screed is made directly onto the ground. In this case, it needs to be compacted properly, then pour in the bitumen mixture to make the screed smooth. If this is not done, then finished surface Cracks may occur as the base subsides over time.
The second step is installing beacons, that is, measuring the space of the room with a level and installing icons that correspond to the desired height. This ensures the floor is smooth and even.
Beacons help in the future to fill a perfectly flat surface without any problems. Most often, the posts are placed every 30 centimeters, then beacons - slats - are attached to them.
Until the very high level must be filled cement composition, while it is much easier to count required amount mortar for floor screeding in an apartment, that is, to avoid unnecessary unnecessary costs for materials.
Direct work on floor screed
If the surface is leveled by about 4 centimeters, it is better to make a tied screed. This way the filling will connect both the base of the surface and the wall of the room.
The composition of the solution itself should be moderately thick and flow freely (without lumps) just above the level of the beacons. This is necessary because as it dries further, the fill will settle a little.
In order to get rid of excess air(bubbles), after pouring it is necessary to compact the solution with a vibrating screed.
Note!
After 24 hours, you can remove the beacons, and carefully prime the traces left by them and wipe them with a solution.
There is a non-cohesive option for leveling the surface. The instructions on how to make this screed are not at all complicated, but you need to take into account that you will need to provide an even and moisture-resistant base. To avoid cracks in the layers, the use of primers and similar substances is not recommended.
Dry floor screed is the most quick way make the most even coating that can withstand a fairly large load and is suitable for rooms with increased traffic.
Dry screed can be made from the following materials:
- moisture-resistant drywall;
- moisture-resistant plywood;
Typically, a dry screed is made at a height of 3 to 5 centimeters, but, if necessary, it can be higher, but it will require reinforcement with an additional layer of slabs.
Note!
You will also need a dry filler - expanded clay, that is, special granules of fired clay that are light in weight.
For dry screed, profiles are used that are distributed one and a half meters apart from each other, strictly parallel, starting from the wall. Then the sheets are laid on a dry screed, starting strictly from the door.
The most traditional is still a concrete screed, which has been tested by experience and is used for finishing coatings and when installing heated floors. If necessary, then in this way it is easily possible to make any desired slope.
When screeding the floor yourself, it is important to know that the room should not be heated while the work is underway, since the composition may not dry evenly!
Photo of do-it-yourself floor screeds
Note!
The screed is the layer between concrete base floor and its top covering. It is necessary for quality leveling floor. The durability of the work result depends on the screed. Installation of the screed is necessary regardless of the type of coating used: parquet, tiles, linoleum, laminate, carpet, etc.
By manufacturing method
- Wet. Represents cement-sand mixture. A special dry composition is also sold - it is made using cement based, or using gypsum. It is poured over and the surface is completely leveled. If cement or sand was used for the screed, the surface is reinforced. Dry mixtures do not require this procedure. The option is universal and common in construction. 10 cm or less is the optimal layer thickness.
- Dry. Also called prefabricated screed. It is a structure made of large sheets with a thickness of 15 to 30 mm. In case of strong differences in surface levels, the dryness of the screed will not allow achieving the desired degree of leveling. Then, under the floor covering, a layer of dry screed is placed on top of the wet one.
- Semi-dry. It differs from the classic, wet production method by a significantly smaller amount of water in the mixture. Benefits of this type screeds are a short period of time between laying the screed and the floor, no leaks. The presence of fiber fiber in the mixture helps to minimize the number of shrinkage cracks.
Mechanized semi-dry floor screed provides a minimum amount of construction waste after installation. The mixture is usually mixed outside and supplied through a hose. For convenience, you can contact companies involved in laying semi-dry floor screed. One of these, “EUROSTROY 21 CENTURY” (company website www.prestigehouse.ru), uses modern equipment and German technologies in its work.
By number of layers
- Single layer. It is laid at a time to the required thickness.
- Multilayer. Consists of rough and finishing surfaces. For example, to ensure rigidity at the junction of the slabs with the floor, first lay rough concrete option, and when finishing, an absolutely smooth finishing screed is laid on top. The rough screed thickness is 20 mm or more, the finishing screed is from 3 to 20 mm.
By connection type
- Solid. It is firmly adhered to the base coating layer.
- Floating. Not connected to anything. It is used when it is necessary to use a film with waterproofing properties, as well as sound or heat insulation. The optimal thickness is 35 mm or more.
Screed materials
Cement is the most common binder for screeds, as is gypsum. The following fillers improve the properties of the mixture: sand, polymers, mineral-based additives. To obtain the required consistency, the composition is diluted with water.
- . Its screed is moisture-resistant and can be used for any type of floor structure. Cement is mixed with sand, the optimal ratio is 1 part cement to 3 parts sand.
There is also sand concrete - a mixture sold in stores. Sand concrete has a drawback - rapid shrinkage. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure the uniformity of the composition and the thickness of the poured layer, which must be at least 30 mm, otherwise the screed will crack.
To ensure uniform stress distribution and protection from cracking, the screed is reinforced from the inside or a portion of propylene-based fiber is added to the solution. After installation, the screed is periodically wetted for approximately 10-14 days. The screed takes a long time to dry and for moisture-sensitive coatings - laminate and parquet - it will remain too wet for at least 20 days.
- Gypsum. Plastic, easy to install screed. Does not shrink, it can be laid thin layer. Complete drying in 1-2 days. Recommended for wooden floor. But it is not suitable for rooms with high humidity, as the gypsum will become like dough. If polymers are added to the plaster, the screed can be used in rooms with moderate humidity.
- Concrete. In terms of composition and manufacturing technology, concrete screed is similar to cement screed. The main difference is that it is added to the mixture cellular concrete. There are different types of concrete screed: foam concrete, expanded clay concrete, perlite concrete.
- Self-leveling or self-leveling mixture. Sold ready-made, intended for various floor coverings. It can be thin-layer, from 2 to 7 mm, and thick-layer, from 5 to 30 mm. If the floor unevenness is large, first make a rough rough screed, and a self-leveling mixture is placed on top.
- . The composition is similar to drywall. Is durable building slabs, coated with a waterproofing compound. Laying is done on a pre-filled layer of polystyrene. The slabs are laid slightly overlapping each other to close the joints. The main advantage of the screed is that you don’t have to wait for it to dry. The final floor covering can be installed the next day. Often used for installing screeds in apartments.
Materials
- Concrete mixer.
- Hydraulic level.
- Rule.
- Construction bubble level.
- Master OK.
- Drill with mixing attachment.
- Stationery knife.
- Bucket.
- Pencil, marker.
- Roulette.
- Ruler.
Stages of work
Stage 1. Defining the horizon
The zero level is measured using a spirit level - otherwise called the water level. Marks are placed in all rooms. Optimal height- from 1.2 to 1.5 m from the floor level. The starting mark can be placed anywhere. The second and all subsequent ones are marked by the water level along the horizon, but not the floor.
Connect all the dots and get zero level. Throughout all installation work it will define the horizontal plane. Check the zero level accuracy several times.
Sometimes expanded clay or gravel is poured under the screed. Then they retreat a few cm from the marked point and make an additional line for pouring the selected pillow material along this level under the screed.
Stage 2. Determine elevation differences
This is necessary to calculate the correct screed level and the required volume of solution.
IN different rooms measure the distance from the old floor to the zero level point. We write the resulting value at each measurement location. It is better to make more points so that the measurements are more accurate. The minimum value is the maximum level of the old floor, and highest value shows it minimum height. The difference in values is the difference in height of the old floor.
For example, max = 1.30 m, min = 1.25 m.
1,30 – 1,25 = 0,05.
That is, the height difference is 5 cm.
30 mm is the minimum thickness of the cement screed to which a plasticizer is added. We mentioned earlier that otherwise cracks will appear along the screed. Builders sometimes add as a plasticizer liquid soap. And on the packaging of the self-leveling mixture, the manufacturer indicates optimal thickness layer.
For multi-level screeds, calculate the difference in heights. Height differences in floor level at the joints of coverings are not allowed. The screed is planned differently according to levels: the thickness of the coatings is not identical. The difference in it must be compensated for by differences in screed levels.
Let's say in the kitchen - ceramic tile, the room has parquet. The layer under parquet will be thicker than for tiles, and it is multi-layered. We sum up the thickness of all layers, including the parquet itself, and subtract the sum of the tile layers, including the tile itself. We get a screed difference. It is recommended to take a spare 2 mm from the tile side if the layer for the parquet turns out to be higher.
Stage 3. Surface preparation
Cleaning base coat. Commonly used construction vacuum cleaner. If it is missing, you can simply sweep it well, then wash everything with a regular cleaning agent. Using a primer you can do additional dust removal. It is optimal to use the Betonokontakt product - it provides good adhesion for the screed and the base, making the surface rough.
Temporary waterproofing is required for partitions and walls. For this purpose, you can use roofing material. The height of the roofing felt tape is 10-15 cm from the level of the screed.
Next, we inspect the base. Peelings are not allowed, they must be cleaned. If there large cracks, cover them with a thick solution based on non-shrink cement. If the floors were “ironized” during construction or coated with “cement milk”, then the film is removed so that there is proper adhesion to the base coating.
Stage 4. Placing beacons
The screed is aligned along them. Usually rigid elements are used as them - metal profiles, which can be fixed in a stationary position and not be afraid that they will bend at the wrong moment.
The mounting method is different: you can build a slide from cement or simply screw the beacons into the floor. Important Requirement– parallelism of the guides. The distance between adjacent ones should allow you to put on the ends of the rail, along which the composition will be leveled.
Using a rack level, the beacons are aligned in length and in relation to each other. Where differences in height occur, plywood formwork is placed so that the solution cannot flow into another room or area.
Stage 5. Mixing the composition and pouring the screed
Few people do it manually; more often they use a concrete mixer - this way the composition turns out to be more uniform. You should not increase the proportion of water to make the mixture homogeneous, otherwise the screed will be fragile. For this purpose, special additives are sold that make the solution plastic and homogeneous.
The filling should resemble a thick dough without lumps, spreading, but not spreading over the surface. It is used for 1-1.5 hours and in one go. It is not allowed to leave it for several days. Also, you should not flood the room in parts over several days. The exception is different levels of screed or different rooms.
The solution is poured between the beacons and leveled with a rule, which is moved strictly along the beacons, shifting the excess mixture. To level the surface of the screed, the rule is to additionally make left-right movements.
The process of leveling a concrete mass using a rule
Video - Floor screed
Stage 6. Post-installation care
A simple operation, often ignored by workers. It consists of watering the coating 2 times a day. If this is not done, the screed will crack. The watering period is 10 days.
The cement screed needs up to 28 days until it becomes strong enough. The chemical processes that occur require a sufficient amount of moisture.
The beacons are pulled out approximately 3 days after the installation of the screed is completed. The recesses are primed and filled with a new portion of the solution. After this, we wet the coating again and cover it with polyethylene film for 2 weeks. In some cases, this is not recommended, then moisturizing is also done often - 2 times a day.
Stage 7. Checking the work
It is done in several stages.
The screed allows you to get rid of unevenness and various kinds floor defects. There are several types of concrete screed. The specific type of coating is selected taking into account the characteristics of the surface condition, the purpose of the floor, the need for sound insulation and additional insulation, installation of heating structures, etc. By choosing the appropriate technology and purchasing the necessary materials, you can independently cope with the work of pouring a concrete screed.
Depending on the order of preparation original surface and the characteristics of the formation of the coating, 4 main types of concrete screed can be distinguished.
The simplest and most popular option. On top of existing slabs interfloor covering the solution is simply poured and leveled. No additional actions are taken.
Screed with moisture insulation
This type is intended for kitchens, bathrooms and other places that are characterized by the presence of permanent high humidity and there is a risk of large volumes of liquid spilling onto the floor.
Before pouring the screed, waterproofing material is laid.
By default, the thermal insulation layer is laid when making a concrete screed on top of the ground. This screed is also perfect for fencing. living rooms from basements and other unheated rooms.
This work involves pouring thin self-leveling coating on top of the finished concrete screed. It is used in the case of leveling surfaces under linoleum, laminate and other materials that are sensitive to any kind of unevenness.
First, an ordinary screed is poured, and then a thin self-leveling solution. Such solutions are sold in specialized stores. It is strongly not recommended to use self-leveling mixtures without first completing the main screed.
Screed thickness is the most important parameter
Before starting work on arranging the screed, you need to determine how thick the fill layer should be specifically in your situation. The determining factors are the following:
- the type of base on top of which the screed will be poured;
- required screed strength;
- required waterproofing and insulation values.
It is important to select a thickness at which the screed load on the floor would not exceed acceptable standards and at the same time, the filling could withstand the expected loads from the interior items of the room.
If the screed is performed in a new building, the required layer thickness must be indicated in the design documentation.
If the screed will be poured to replace the old coating, you should try to adhere to the parameters of the old screed as much as possible. If necessary, the new fill can be improved by adding insulation or installing a floor heating system.
The thickness of the concrete layer varies from 2.5 to 8 cm. It is impossible to make the screed thinner than the permissible lower limit, since its strength characteristics will not be enough and it will collapse very quickly.
Prepare concrete using cement grade from M400. Specific set and characteristics starting materials choose individually according to the specifics of your situation.
Having determined the optimal layer thickness and calculated the consumption of materials, you can begin preparatory work.
Preparing to pour the screed
Arranging a concrete screed is a responsible job that requires thorough preparation. In this case, preparation is carried out in several stages. Complete each of them in sequence.
Basic training
Initial preparation will vary depending on whether you plan to screed the floor or whether the concrete will be poured onto the ground. First, we present to your attention the option with a screed device on the finished floor.
First step. Remove the old screed, if present. The fastest and most convenient way to destroy the coating is with a hammer drill.
Second step. Clean the floors from dirt and prime them. Pour the primer directly onto the base and level it over the surface using a roller or brush.
In case of filling ground screeds base preparatory stage will be executed in a different sequence.
First step. Clear the soil of vegetation.
Second step. Cover the base with a layer of sand or expanded clay and compact it.
Third step. Plan the distribution of plumbing and sewer pipes, if the screed device is installed in the bathroom. Install the planned communications.
Insulation
Insulate the base using expanded clay backfill or foam boards. Use what is most convenient for you. The main thing is that the thermal insulation layer is as rigid as possible.
Expanded clay is better suited for your own homes, polystyrene - for ordinary apartments.
To protect the base from moisture, use roofing felt or thick plastic film. Lay strips of moisture-proofing material with an overlap of about 15 cm. You also need to provide a 10-centimeter overlap on the walls of the room.
At the junctions of waterproofing with pipes, additional sealant should be used.
Waterproofing is mandatory in kitchens and baths. In other situations, the design of this layer will only make sense for additional protection apartments located on the lower floor of the house from basement dampness.
This step is performed only if the screed is poured on the ground. For reinforcement, use a fine-mesh mesh made of reinforcement or special wire. Select a specific reinforcement option individually, taking into account the area and other features of the room.
Installation of additional accessories
If you are planning to install a heated floor system or want to install electrical wiring under the main floor covering, take all the appropriate steps at this stage.
After successful completion of all preparatory activities proceed to the work of pouring the concrete screed.
Be prepared to perform your work as carefully and responsibly as possible. Even the slightest mistakes when pouring screed can lead to extremely unpleasant consequences.
First stage - marking
To ensure that the filling is as even as possible, use beacons in the form of slats.
First step. Install the first rail. Place the slats on the mortar and, if necessary, additionally secure them with screws. The first beacon should be located at a distance of 20 cm from the far wall.
Second step. Secure the next rail at a distance of about 100-150 cm from the first beacon.
1 - brands; 2 - pipes; A, B, C - screed laying strips
Third step. Distribute the slats evenly throughout the room. Allow the solution used to secure the slats to set and dry.
The second stage is preparing the solution
You can immediately buy a ready-made mixture for concrete screed. In specialized stores such mixtures are presented in large assortment. Select suitable composition and prepare it according to the manufacturer's instructions.
The screed can also be made from an ordinary mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 1 to 3. Additionally, tile adhesive can be added to this mixture for the screed - it will increase the strength of the finished coating. The solution should not be too dry, but a composition that spreads too much is also not suitable. Experiment and look for the optimal ratio of components. Such the composition is suitable for sparsely trafficked rooms in which the installation of a concrete screed does not make sense.
It is better to order concrete in finished form. This will save you from unnecessary work and will allow you to be confident in the quality and uniformity of the solution.
The third stage - pouring the solution
Start pouring the solution along the beacons. Try to do it in one go. Consider the setting time of the solution. For example, a mixture of sand and cement will be impossible to level less than an hour after its preparation. It is prohibited to add additional water to a dried solution, as this leads to a significant deterioration in the performance characteristics of the fill.
First step. Pour the solution between the beacons furthest from the front door.
Second step. Level the fill using the rule. Check the fill layer using a level. If necessary, add concrete to areas where there is not enough concrete.
Third step. Fill in all the remaining stripes between other beacons using the same pattern. Pierce each section with a thin pin in several places to remove excess air.
After a day, you can remove the beacons. Fill the voids with mortar and level it using a trowel or grout.
Stage four – grinding
Wait for the concrete to dry and sand the surface thoroughly. This will level the base and prepare it for laying any finishing flooring.
Eliminate especially large bulges using an angular grinder. After this, you can proceed to the planned finishing work.
Thus, there is nothing overly complicated about pouring a concrete floor screed yourself. However, you need to remain attentive and take the most responsible approach to the implementation of each technological activity in order to obtain high-quality, reliable and durable coating. Follow the instructions and everything will definitely work out.
Good luck!
Video - Do-it-yourself concrete floor screed
The main and most important function of a floor screed is to level the surface, because it is the middle layer between the base and the final floor covering. Without carrying out this stage of repair, do high-quality repairs It's simply impossible. And watching the constant rise in prices, many owners screed the floor with their own hands.
Preparing to lay the screed
Before you start screeding the floor yourself, you need to purchase the material and the necessary tools:
- Trowel and spatula;
- Level;
- Tape measure and knife;
- Specialized roller for application;
- Mixer or drill with attachment;
- Container in which the solution will be mixed.
Short list of actions
- The base is being prepared;
- The level and height difference are determined;
- Beacons are being installed;
- A mixture is prepared;
- The base is poured;
- “Maturing” of the screed.
Preparing the base
The first step is to prepare the floor covering, clean it of any debris and previous finishing. Carry out a thorough inspection and, if necessary, repair using special repair mixtures all cracks and potholes. After sealing the cracks, you need to vacuum the floor layer.
Then it is attached in a circle to the walls, which serves as the necessary buffer thermal expansion future screed. We also make sure to do moisture insulation; to do this, we place a polypropylene film on the previously repaired ceiling. minimum thickness 0.2 millimeters. This insulation can be carried out using a special bitumen mixture; it is usually applied with a roller. With this method, no film is used.
If film is used, it is overlapped at least 15 centimeters and secured with ordinary tape.
Height differences when laying screed
Such an important point as the evenness of the new screed and the final height of the floors directly depends on this indicator. And the material consumption and, accordingly, material costs also depend on the thickness of the screed.
First you need to display the so-called zero level; for this you need to use a laser or hydraulic level.
A mark is made at 1.4 meters from the floor, which, using a level, is transferred to all walls of the room, thus obtaining a large number of points that need to be connected together.
Next, from the resulting horizon, the distance to the floor is measured as follows: smallest value, which means we have received the highest point of the existing floor. And the largest value obtained indicates the lowest point existing coverage. The difference between the largest and smallest value obtained will mean the difference in the existing floor and from this indicator it will be clear how to make a new screed.
For example, the largest value is 1.4 m, and the smallest is 1.35 m. This means that the difference is: 1.4 - 1.35 = 5 centimeters.
The minimum possible layer of cement screed made is three centimeters; floor screed technology does not allow this figure to be reduced, which means that the future screed will have a height of 8 centimeters in the deepest part, and 3 centimeters in the shallowest part.
If the difference is less than three centimeters, then for leveling it is better to use self-leveling self-leveling floors; the instructions written for each type of self-leveling floor regulate permissible height screeds.
If the difference is more than 5 centimeters, then apartment buildings You cannot fill a screed of this size, because the load on the floors may increase significantly and the floor will collapse under its own weight. In this option, plank flooring is used.
Installation of beacons
Beacons are used to ensure the ideal evenness of the future screed, because it is against them that the entire screed is leveled. Special perforated profiles are used as beacons; they are attached directly to the floor; correct installation is checked using a level.
The distance between the last beacon and the wall should be twenty centimeters, and the distance between adjacent beacons is chosen arbitrarily, depending on the width of the rule. To isolate the future screed from other rooms in doorway you need to build a small formwork.
How to do cps
Having installed and secured the beacons, you should move on to directly considering the question of how to make cement screed. To do this, you need three main ingredients (cement, water, sand) and it is advisable to add special plasticizers.
The recipe looks like this:
- The dry ingredients are mixed in the prepared container. Mix thoroughly until a homogeneous mass is obtained. The best way stir the mixture using a drill with an attachment, then add water;
- The prepared mixture should have the consistency of thick sour cream. To check, put the solution in your palm and squeeze, but it should not separate into pieces or spread like jelly;
- Next, you must add any available plasticizer; the proportions of addition to the solution will be indicated directly on the label. When using an additive, the solution becomes more resistant to cracking during the drying period;
How to fill a screed
Having prepared the solution, you need to start laying the floor screed; the technology requires that the prepared mixture be laid within two hours.
It is necessary to start pouring from the far edge, moving from the entrance to the exit when pouring. The mixture simply falls out between the fixed beacons and is equalized using the rule. The solution must be leveled exclusively along the beacons.
“Maturing” of concrete
I poured the solution, leveled it, left the screed for several days, as soon as it can be stepped on, the screed was moistened with water and covered with film. Wetting should be done regularly, approximately once every three days. The period for gaining strength of a concrete screed is approximately three and a half weeks.
When drying the screed, you just need to eliminate drafts in the room. Otherwise, the floor may crack due to uneven drying of the concrete solution.
IN this material the question of how floor screed is made was covered in detail; having studied this material, you can easily carry out this type home renovation with your own hands. It is enough to follow the recommendations and instructions, and if you have an assistant, the whole process will go faster and much easier.
Brief video instructions: