It is no secret that wooden surfaces treated with varnish or paint have a significant disadvantage - they become cold and lifeless. If you intend to preserve the beauty of texture, warmth and energy, we recommend that you pay attention to such a material for wood processing as drying oil.
Compositions for wood - drying oil comes in different forms
Drying oils can act as an independent protective and decorative coating wood, or as a primer layer before painting or puttying, as a component for the preparation of paint compositions.
Existing compositions can be divided into the following groups:
Processing wood with natural drying oil - application features
Most often, flaxseed, hemp and sunflower drying oils are found on the market. Natural linseed oil has a light transparent color. It is used for priming wooden, plastered and metal surfaces, as well as in the preparation of wood putties, pastes and for diluting light paints. The use of natural compounds is allowed indoors. How long does it take for natural drying oil to dry on wood? At a temperature of at least 20 °C – about 24 hours.
Hemp drying oil has a pronounced dark color. The scope of application of the composition is the same as that of flax. But this liquid is used for diluting dark, thickly grated paints. Compared to previous representatives of the group, sunflower impregnation dries more slowly - after a day, undried liquid will still be felt on the surface. Its peculiarity is high elasticity, but in terms of hardness, strength and water resistance it is inferior to hemp and linseed oil.
Natural compounds are excellent for treating wooden surfaces various instruments. Hunters love to soak gun stocks with them - after this the product lies very softly and warmly in the hand, it is pleasant to touch it with your cheek. However, for impregnation floor coverings this group is not suitable, since the film created by natural compounds does not have high strength.
Semi-natural, combined, synthetic – areas of application of drying oils
Semi natural drying oils, mostly have a light brown color. The resulting film on a wooden surface is characterized by hardness and good gloss, as well as fairly high water resistance. Basically, semi-natural formulations are used in combination with other paint and varnish materials or as a primer. Like natural drying oils, semi-natural ones do not have sufficient strength for processing floor coverings.
Manufacturers add modifiers to combined compositions that improve their qualities necessary for the production and dilution of thick paints. Combined drying oils are also used for priming wooden surfaces before plastering or painting.
Do not forget that the liquid dries for at least a day - it is not recommended to apply a layer of paint or plaster until completely dry.
Synthetic compositions are used not so much for impregnation, but as a basis for diluting dark oil paints for exterior painting, as well as for priming metal, concrete and plastered surfaces. Synthetic drying oil is also used to prepare all kinds of putties and pastes.
What is drying – we saturate the wood
It should be noted that drying oil is in demand among lovers natural materials, which are absolutely safe for human health. However, in terms of other parameters (strength, penetration depth, durability), compositions based on natural oils have long been inferior to impregnations based on alkyd resins with fungicides and other modifiers.
Natural impregnation is most often used in caring for wooden products, which periodically, one way or another, need cleaning and polishing. For example, these could be carpentry tools. Drying oils made from natural oils also perform well in internal works– treated wooden surfaces look very good, continue to breathe and scent the air. But for outdoor work it is better to use more modern substances that are resistant to temperature changes, moisture and pests.
Any person sooner or later faces the need for repairs. Today on the construction market there are many tools and materials that will help you update your interior or exterior on your own. One way is to paint interior wooden surfaces - window frames, doors, floors or even walls.
A wooden surface painted with drying oil does not always look attractive
Many people do not take this issue seriously, so they buy the first available (that is, cheap) paint and get to work without preliminary preparation surface, which becomes the main mistake.
If we are talking about a clumsy process with a roller, the result of which is visible on every fence, then the direction has been chosen correctly. But at the heart of any well-made finishing operations There is attention to detail that should be taken care of in advance. Otherwise, you can not only waste time, effort and money, but also completely ruin it. Consumables and the wooden object itself.
Therefore, it is important to take into account the nuances. For example, what to do if the wooden surface was previously covered with a coloring or strengthening solution: varnish, paint, impregnation or drying oil? The last composition is more problematic than the others, so, first of all, you need to figure out: with what and how to paint the drying oil previously applied to the surface of the wooden material?
To answer this question, you should get a little closer to such a construction archaism as drying oil, and understand why its use nowadays causes such heated debate, both in the professional community and in amateur circles?
Drying oil is a film-forming liquid consisting of sediments of vegetable oil (linseed, hemp, sunflower, mulberry, etc.), which is processed in a special way (overheating or oxidation). And the solvents and driers in its composition are similar to oil paints, varnishes, primers and putties. In other words, drying oil as a finishing mixture can be used as any lubricating or coloring raw material.
Drying oil is both a coloring agent and an impregnating agent.
In the Soviet years, oil paint based on drying oil was almost the only available means of painting surfaces. It was applied to literally everything: floors, walls, ceilings, doors, windows and even furniture. Removing the decayed wallpaper layer by layer, old tiles in a bathroom or worn-out linoleum, there is a high probability that you will stumble upon an oiled surface. Previously, not a single repair could be done without it.
With the appearance of new paint and varnish mixtures on the shelves of construction stores, drying oil began to be used only for putty purposes in order to give integrity to the porous structure of the material and protect it from moisture. Due to its viscous composition, drying oil has good filling properties, which significantly reduces its consumption. Another area of its application is painting metal surfaces and walls and ceilings in service areas (toilet, locker room, industrial kitchen) where there are hoods. In addition, it is used to prime concrete surfaces and renew wood in exterior work.
With all its advantages, drying oil has a number of significant disadvantages, of which those who have at least once tried to apply another paint and varnish substance to it without pre-treatment are well aware. Among the obvious disadvantages it should be noted:
- low adhesion (adhesion) in relation to other paints, so even the most expensive paint a short time"will get off";
- a strong odor that, neither during nor after it, never completely disappears and indoors a stuffy, unpleasant atmosphere is created;
- slow drying, from several hours to a couple of weeks, depending on the type and composition (the fastest is natural, and the longest is synthetic);
- fire and explosion hazard due to the presence of flammable solvents in the composition;
- inconvenient to use, since you need to work with it only in a warm room (over 20 degrees), having warmed the mixture in advance;
- fragility.
Painting with cheap drying oil is not recommended; it has a number of negative qualities
It must be said that all of the above negative aspects are for the most part characteristic of low-quality, cheap drying oil. Good coverage possesses them only partially.
It would seem that it is simply impossible to re-paint a surface impregnated with drying oil. But the situation is not as dire as it seems at first glance. The main thing is to choose the right tools and paint.
When working with oiled material, choosing the right paint is of paramount importance. Anyone who tried to put paint on drying oil invariably noticed: the freshly applied coating “bubbles” as it dries, and the opened bubbles have a yellow, resinous content and a characteristic smell of drying oil.
However, there are several types of dyes and finishing materials, which I can cope with difficult drying oil. These include:
- Oil paint;
- alkyd paint;
- acrylate oil paint;
- water-dispersion paint;
- pentaphthalic enamel (or otherwise called PF-115);
- nitrocellulose varnish (or otherwise called NTs-132);
- oil-based liquid wallpaper;
- self-adhesive paper or film.
Pentaphthalic enamel easily copes with drying oil and lays perfectly on top of it
Any of these options is perfect for painting not only wood, but also concrete and metal surface. Under no circumstances should you try to paint drying oil with quick-drying nitro enamel or water-based paint: our clever impregnation oil based it will simply “repel” the layer of paint.
TO standard set Several new tools are purchased:
- roller or brush;
- spray gun or spray gun;
- paint mixing tray;
- a bucket of soapy water;
- clean rags;
- a stiff bristle brush or sandpaper;
- metal spatula;
- draw frame or manual scraper;
- disinfectant composition (antiseptic, fire retardant, acetone, xylene, solvent);
- wood putty or concrete plaster;
- primer;
- gloves and respirator.
To apply self-adhesive film you need:
- stationery knife;
- powder or talc;
- water with cleaning solution;
- dry rag;
- pin or needle.
Self-adhesive film looks good and can be easily glued onto surfaces pre-treated with drying oil.
Everything you need is at hand. Nothing prevents you from getting to work.
The importance of pre-treatment of the oiled surface has been discussed more than once. Lower preparatory stages Only a short-sighted amateur who doesn’t feel sorry for his wasted efforts and money on materials can do it. A thrifty owner would prefer to do everything once, but thoroughly and well.
So, here is the sequence in which the processing work needs to be carried out:
- Clean surfaces from mechanical contamination: traces of old paint or putty, rust, lime, greasy stains, soot and dust. Depending on the type of material (wood, concrete, metal), this should be done using a metal spatula or a brush with stiff bristles. Wash with soapy water. Let it dry.
- Sand or, if possible, plan upper layer(the latter is only for wood), using coarse sandpaper, a hand scraper or, better yet, a belt scraper. Wash with water. Let it dry.
- Seal all chips and cracks with plaster or putty. Sand with fine grit sandpaper. Wipe with a damp cloth.
- Prime. Let it dry. Sand it. Wipe with a damp cloth. Wait until completely dry.
- Apply the disinfectant composition no later than 6 hours after the previous stage. Let it dry.
These carefully completed stages will greatly facilitate the application of paint and prevent their deformation throughout their entire service life.
Now that negative properties Drying oils have been reduced to nothing as much as possible, it’s time to begin the procedure of painting or pasting the surface.
Painting work is carried out in several stages at temperatures from –30 to +40 degrees and relative humidity air not higher than 80%:
- To begin with, apply a stripe layer of paint with a brush. hard to reach places, welds, end edges.
- The painting solution is applied in one layer using vertical movements, direction from left to right or from the wall farthest to the door with a roller, brush or spray (at a distance of 20-30 cm). It is also possible to dip the object into the paint paste. Wait until it completely dries.
- Metal surfaces are painted in 2–3 layers and dry for up to 3 hours; cement-sand, asbestos-cement and concrete surfaces should be painted in 3 layers, and wooden surfaces – 1–2.
- Rinse the dry surface hot water(no added soda or detergent) in order to eliminate divorces. Wipe again before use.
- You can get rid of the persistent smell of some types of paints (for example, oil paints) by placing 2-3 jars of salt water or grated garlic on a plate next to the painted area or in the room.
It is very important to wait until each previous coat of paint is completely dry before applying the next one. The final drying time of the finished coating at a temperature of +20 degrees is at least 24 hours.
Check whether the surface is dry or not, perhaps traditional method– placing your finger on the area to be painted. If necessary, you should wait a longer period.
Transforming an oiled surface is not the easiest task. But with a skillful approach and competent selection necessary tools and finishing materials, in just a few days you can revive the interior and give it a new, more attractive look, which will delight its diligent owner for a long time.
When working with wood and many other porous surfaces, one of the most commonly used materials is drying oil. We apply it as a primer or for other reasons. But those of you who have encountered this product at least a few times know that it has long time drying, and that work cannot be continued until drying is complete.
The basis for the olive is overheated and specially oxidized vegetable oil. At the same time, various driers, solvents and other components characteristic of paint and varnish products.
The main task of drying oil is to form on the surface of wood protective layer to prevent the penetration of moisture, mold, mildew, rot and insects. Finally, this material is used as a primer, allowing the paint to go on more smoothly and efficiently, and also reducing the consumption of this paint itself.
Do not forget that wood coated with linseed oil is very beautiful, so this paint coating is also used for decorative purposes.
Types of drying oil
The drying time of drying oil on a wooden surface or chipboard depends on the type of product. There are four options on the market today:
- Natural;
- Semi-natural;
- Synthetic;
- Combined.
Natural drying oil, unlike its synthetic “brothers,” is not a fire hazard, since it contains almost no solvents. However, the drying time depends on the type of oil. The product dries on linseed and hemp oil for 24 hours, but sunflower oil will still be sticky at this point
Semi-natural drying oil contains approximately 45 percent solvents. Like natural, it is used not only for coating wood, but also for diluting paint and varnish products. However, the semi-natural option is not used for flooring. Drying time is approximately 24 hours.
Synthetic drying oil is the cheapest. It is obtained by oxidizing shale oil followed by dissolution in xyol. Unlike all the others, it is not used for treating household surfaces. Requires room ventilation. Its scope of application includes priming concrete, metal, diluting paint and varnish products, preparing plaster and mastic. Drying time is usually more than 24 hours
The combined drying oil dries in about a day. It is obtained by polymerization and dehydration of oils. It is not used for coating surfaces - it is used in paint production.
How to speed up the drying process of drying oil on a wooden surface or chipboard
Unlike paint, which dries after the solvent evaporates, drying oil dries through the process of oxidation, that is, by contacting oxygen.
Many people ask what to do if the drying oil does not dry out. In reality, you almost always have to wait, and there aren't many ways to speed up the process. One of them is to use a heat gun. The thing is that the drying process of drying oil is accelerated in conditions of high temperature and low humidity. And the fan heater does this job very well. By the way, previously it was practiced to apply drying oil hot just to increase the drying speed.
Another way is to use a drier. Red lead is ideal. Please read the instructions carefully before use.
How to tell if drying oil is completely dry and what to do if it doesn’t dry
The main sign that this material completely dry - no stickiness. However, in some cases, drying oil does not dry out even after 10 days. Most likely the reason is marriage. There is no point in waiting for such drying oil to dry out - it is better to clean it from the surface. One way to do this is with white spirit. However, if the material is deeply embedded in the wood, a plane may be required.
Now it is one of the most fashionable and popular building and finishing materials due to its two main characteristics: environmental friendliness and aesthetics.
But at the same time, wood is not highly durable and durable in comparison with other modern materials. Natural wood requires special processing technology and additional protection, for this purpose, various impregnations, mastics, etc. are used.
Drying oil, almost forgotten in last years due to the abundance of new funds from foreign manufacturers in this category, is again in increasing demand - the effect is almost the same, but the price is much more affordable.
Why is drying oil needed and how to use it correctly when finishing or other buildings (for example, a gazebo or a bathhouse) made of wood?
Drying oil is a traditional paint and varnish material widely used in construction and painting work a few decades ago.
Under the Soviet Union, this was almost the only means with which products and buildings were processed. He has his ardent admirers to this day.
Using drying oil for wooden walls
Drying oil helps reduce paint consumption, which is why it is often applied to wood not only as a protective layer, but also as a primer for painting. How to do this correctly?
Everything is extremely simple. Shake the bottle of product, or pour it into a large container and stir.
Additional Information
Drying oil can be used for priming not only wooden walls, but also plastered. It is also often used as an anti-corrosion coating for metals.
It is important to choose the right type of product. A modern manufacturer produces drying oil of three varieties, different in composition and properties:
Natural drying oil. It consists of 95% vegetable oil, and only 5% of drier, a special additive that accelerates the drying of the treated surface.
It is unprofitable to use it for treating external surfaces due to the high financial costs, while this species does not provide 100% protection against fungus and insects.
Diluted with natural drying oil oil paints and prime wooden surfaces before painting or varnishing.
Oxol. It consists of 55% natural oil component, 40% solvent, white spirit, and 5% drier. The scope and properties of this type of drying oil are the same as natural ones, only it dries faster and costs less.
It also does not provide 100% protection. Learn more about why Oxol drying oil is needed and what it consists of in the video:
Composite drying oil is made entirely from artificial chemical components, in particular petroleum-polymer resins, and has a pungent odor.
Drying oils based on alkyd resins are considered the best. They are not as greasy and expensive as natural drying oils, and not as toxic as composite ones. But, nevertheless, it is better to use them for finishing outdoor dacha buildings (porches, swings, gazebos, summer kitchen) and for interior rooms country house and apartments.
Choose more modern, purified, reliable and safe formulations.
Drying oil is a good alternative to modern expensive means for impregnating and priming wooden surfaces.
But remember that some types can be toxic and are not suitable for use in residential areas.
If you need guaranteed protection from external factors, drying oil alone is not enough.
Have you finished the floor with wood and sanded it? What now? We have good options how to give even more beautiful view such an excellent finishing material as wood, and make it resistant to external influences.
Sanding is critical
If during normal floor processing, sandpaper No. 40, 60 and 100 is suitable for pre-grinding, then when planning to process with an alkaline solution, soap or drying oil, sanding should be even more thorough. After sanding the floor with 100-grit sandpaper using a sander and a baseboard sander, simply place a #120 or even #150 sanding mesh under a single-disc sander. grinding machine and sand the wood again. Do this thoroughly and remove wood dust from time to time. Sand the edges and corners using a detail sander or by hand, also using 120 or 150 grit.
Lye and soap
Alkaline solutions are very caustic liquids that easily change the structure of a wooden surface chemically. The main effect that is obtained is that soft spruce wood does not darken over time as a result of exposure to sunlight, and soft pine wood does not acquire a reddish (in the core area) or yellowish (in the sapwood area) tint. An alkaline solution is applied to wet sanded wood ( latex gloves required!).
It is very important to constantly stir the alkaline solution so that it is homogeneous, otherwise some components will settle to the bottom. After about 2 hours, the wood will turn a slightly whitish color.
Then you need to thoroughly rinse the surface with plenty of water with the addition of floor cleaner or remove any remaining alkali from the surface using a single-disc sander (use sanding mesh No. 150). Attention: different alkaline solutions are used for soft and hard wood. If you mix them up, the surface of the wood may become spotty.
Treating wood with an alkaline solution is only preparation for further surface treatment. Classically, first of all in Scandinavian countries, the floors are then soaped. Soap for wooden floors contains predominantly soy fat and Coconut oil odorless, which oil the wood from the inside. As a result, the wooden surface becomes moisture resistant and repels dirt. The soap is simply added to water, which is then applied to the tree using a fringed whisk. After drying, the procedure should be repeated at least three to four times. Later, soap should be added to the water every time you regularly wash the floors.
Drying oil
Applying drying oil is a very common surface treatment for plank floors after varnishing. Drying oil is not as durable as varnishes, but it helps to highlight the natural texture of the wood, which becomes softer and more pleasant to the touch.
First, apply drying oil evenly to the floor using a high-nap roller. After about 30 minutes, remove excess drying oil with a rag and rub the drying oil thoroughly using a single-disc sander and sanding net. After the surface has dried (about 6 hours), polish it with a sanding mesh until a uniform, low shine appears. After alkali, drying oil colored in White color to give the wood surface a light, slightly whitish tint. Dark drying oil can be applied without pre-treating the wood.
Wax
Wax is, like drying oil, also a natural product, which, after adding to it different substances makes it suitable for treating the surface of wooden floors. Unlike drying oil, wax does not penetrate the wood very deeply, but it also does not form a film on the surface like varnish. A waxed surface always breathes actively. The commercially available so-called decorative wax is a mixture of wax and vegetable oil, which is applied to the surface in the same way as drying oil. wooden surface and rub it in. Colorless decorative wax is enough to apply twice.
Colored decorative wax needs protection, since pigments that are not able to penetrate the wood dissolve, and plank field Unsightly stains form. You can protect the wax by applying a colorless solid wax-oil on top and rubbing in. This way the color of the decorative wax will remain fresh for a long time.
Important: the more layers of wax, the more intense the coloring of the floor. The disadvantage is that with each layer the natural grain of the wood is hidden more and more. The ideal tool for spreading wax and oil is a professional spatula.
Varnish
Apply colored varnish to the newly sanded wooden floor– this is simply a sin, because varnishes form a layer on the surface that completely hides the texture of the wood. If you like intense colors on the floor, then you can varnish separate areas, for example, draw a carpet. Like all varnished surfaces, plank floors require a primer after thorough cleaning. Apply several layers.
Paint the floors first acrylic varnish using a short-nap roller. Then make a drawing if you wish. When the base layer of varnish has dried, it is quite possible to glue crepe or varnished fabric tape. Finally, after everything has dried, you should apply wax varnish twice. Then the surface will become resistant to daily abrasion for a long time, and, accordingly, repairs will not have to be done soon.
Wooden floors can also be varnished vegetable oil. It will adhere to all linseed and waxed floors that ordinary water-soluble varnish will not adhere to.
The prerequisite, however, is that the waxed/oiled floors have been sanded again using sanding mesh no. 150. First, the varnish is applied along the edges, then over the entire surface. You can walk on the floor after 6 hours, and the varnish will completely harden after 7 days.
Only wax varnish will do varnished surface wear-resistant. We recommend applying it at least twice with a short nap roller. intermediate grinding sanding mesh No. 150.