How to water the lawn at the dacha. Automatic lawn watering - we install it ourselves so that the system waters for us

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For many private homeowners, having a luxurious green lawn in their yard is a source of pride and provides an excellent opportunity for relaxing and playing on the grass. However, maintaining a lawn in optimal condition may require a considerable amount of water consumption; in addition, depending on the specific region of your residence, there may be water consumption standards for watering garden plots or even periodic water shortages in the area. certain time of the year. But no matter where you live, it's always a good idea to learn how to conserve water as much as possible. Effective organization watering your lawn will help you save not only your own money, but also invaluable natural resource- fresh water.

Steps

Find ways to save water

    Make changes to your lawn mowing routine. Mowing your lawn is important, but cutting the grass too often or too low can cause a perfectly healthy lawn to dry out. Also, the use of a constant route of movement of the lawn mower exposes the grass to additional deformation from the constant (week after week) impact of the wheels in the same places.

    Use a watering timer. If you have installed automatic system watering, it would be a good idea to purchase a timer or smart watering controller for it. Similar devices regulate the flow of water to the sprinklers and usually include rain sensors that automatically turn off irrigation when activated.

    • Installing smart irrigation controllers allows you to save water and reduce your expenses on it when payment for the consumed volume of water is carried out according to the meter.
  1. Reduce the amount of fertilizer you use. Frequent fertilization can cause the grass to dry out. Excess fertilizers or their too frequent use requires more frequent watering and an increase in its volume.

    Consider reducing overwatering. Watering your lawn serves a variety of purposes. In addition to maintaining healthy looking grass, it also reduces air dust and helps regulate soil temperature. However, if there are areas of your lawn that are infrequently touched and that are not of particular aesthetic value (for example, located behind or to the side of the house), consider reducing the frequency and volume of watering these areas. They can continue to be watered regularly to prevent the grass from drying out, but they do not need the same amount of watering as the rest of the lawn.

    • In addition to reducing watering in specific areas of your lawn, you can also reduce the amount of water evaporation around certain plants or flower beds by adding a top layer of organic mulch there. This will help conserve water and possibly reduce the frequency of watering required in these areas of the lawn.
  2. Use recycled water. If you only water lawn grass and not fruits or vegetables, you might consider using secondary water. Rainwater is safe for watering and is the same water that would otherwise fall onto your lawn naturally. However, depending on the specific location of residence, the possible volume of rainwater collection may not be very significant. Gray water drains (excluding toilet drains) when using showers, kitchen sinks and washing machines are considered unsafe for drinking and garden watering, but are generally suitable for watering lawns.

    Check your irrigation system for leaking sprinklers. Broken and leaking sprinklers waste a significant amount of water, which can lead to overwatering individual areas of the lawn. To lower your water bill and reduce water consumption during dry periods, it is important to regularly check the condition of your irrigation system's sprinklers and valves and immediately repair or replace any broken or leaking equipment.

    Transform your lawn to save water

    1. Weed your lawn regularly. Weeds tend not only to fill the space, but also to fight with other plants for water and nutrients that are contained in the soil. When weeding, be sure to dig deep into them to completely destroy them. root system, since simply pulling out surface shoots does not destroy all weeds.

      Choose for your lawn the right varieties herbs. Although turfgrass may seem like ordinary grass to the untrained eye, there are actually many various types herbs. Each of them has its own advantages, which depend on the region and climate in which you live.

      Consider alternatives to living lawn. If you have a large enough lawn area that it is difficult to maintain it in optimal condition, or if you simply want to add variety to the landscape of the area, there are many alternatives to live lawn. In dry areas, these alternatives may be smarter and more economical than maintaining turfgrass.

    Determine the optimal amount of watering for your lawn

      Determine the soil type in your area. The type of soil that underlies your lawn, as well as the climate and time of year, will determine how often you need to water your lawn. If you live in an area that gets a lot of rain at certain times of the year, you won't have to water your lawn as often. On the other hand, some types of sites may not take full advantage of rainfall, depending on the composition of the soil and the landscape itself.

10 tips for watering your lawn.

Watering the lawn

    Watering the lawn should be done in the early morning or late evening, but not in hot weather. Moisture from the lawn evaporates quickly in hot weather and this does not bring the desired result, and the plus of this is extra expense water. But do not forget that when watering during the day, the grass can be burned by the sun's rays.

    The most important rule: it is better to water well once than many times and little by little.

    Lawn, which for a long time not watered, on the contrary, you need to water little and often. Moisture should gradually saturate the soil.

    Lawn grasses do not take cold water from a well or well very well. Many of my friends use water to water their lawns from reservoirs: swimming pools or driveways.

    It is better to water the lawn not with a direct stream, but with sprinklers, and especially not to flood it. When watering with a direct stream, you wash away everything from the top layer of soil. useful material. And when watering with sprinklers, moisture gradually saturates the soil, while the plants take everything from the soil required amount moisture.

    A new or over-seeded lawn should be watered only with sprinklers, and never with a direct stream. Seeds embedded in the soil will be washed out with a direct stream and remain on its surface.

    Watering the lawn under the trees. The lawn under the trees needs to be watered abundantly, because trees absorb moisture abundantly. But you shouldn’t overdo it here either, because if the crown is large and the rays of the sun do not warm the soil well, your lawn may simply turn sour. As a result, moss will appear in such an area and the grass will not grow well.

    The interval between watering should be such that the moisture is completely absorbed and the grass dries out.

    Evergreens in your lawn also require plenty of watering, especially in the fall and spring.

That's all! See you again!

A well-groomed lawn, playing with shades of greenery, is a decoration for any area. It’s nice to run through it barefoot, lie down, taking a break from the worries of the country, play with children or a dog. To make it constantly pleasing to the eye, you need proper care, and how often to water the lawn depends on its condition and the mood of those around you.

How to tell if your lawn needs watering

All living things need moisture, and the grass on your front lawn is no exception. But, like cucumbers or potatoes, overwatering is contraindicated. To prevent putrefactive processes from developing, water the lawn at certain times, taking into account the frequency of natural precipitation and the proximity of groundwater.

Regularly moistening the lawn not only provides the grass with moisture, but also maintains the temperature balance of the soil. The first watering, very abundant, is carried out immediately after sowing the grass, using the sprinkling method.

Next, before germination, you need to take into account the actual weather conditions and the moisture requirements of the sown grass seeds. If there is no such information regarding the seeds, proceed as follows: on sunny days, water daily, and in cloudy weather, monitor the moisture content of the top layer of soil.

With the emergence of seedlings, it becomes easier to determine the need for watering: the grass in need of moisture begins to fade and loses its elasticity. If you walk on such a lawn, footprints remain for about half an hour. The need for watering is also assessed using a long, 15 cm or more, screwdriver or thin stick. If the tool easily enters the soil, the time for watering has not yet come.

Advice: “For owners who rarely visit country cottage area, it is advisable to sow drought-resistant lawn grass: ryegrass, tall and filamentous fescue, bentgrass.”

What time of day is best to water?

It is undesirable to water on a hot sunny day: drops of water will produce the effect of numerous lenses, that is, they will attract the rays of the sun and focus them on the surface of the blades of grass, leading to burns.

In many regions, evening watering is also undesirable: the top layer of soil does not have time to dry out, and the nighttime drop in temperature creates favorable conditions for the development of fungal diseases and rot. In hot weather, the optimal time is from 6 to 9 am: moisture has time to be absorbed and the grass blades have time to dry before the peak solar intensity.

How often to water

The frequency of watering the lawn depends on several factors, none of which are minor:

  1. Landscape type. A lawn located on a slope needs to be watered more often than one on level ground or in a low area.
  2. The soil. Loams are characterized by excellent ability to retain moisture. One square meter is able to “hide” about 60 liters of water, clay holds 30–35 liters, sandy loam - no more than 20 liters.
  3. Weather. It's no secret that she can change overnight.
  4. The type of lawn grass is moisture-loving or drought-resistant.
  5. Season. In summer you need more water than in spring or autumn.

In general, the watering regime for lawns from 2 years and older is presented as follows:

  • from early April to mid-May, water once a week;
  • from mid-May to mid-September - 2 times a week;
  • from mid-September to the end of October - once a week.
In the south, the watering regime in May and September corresponds to summer.

During drought, watering is daily, and in cool, cloudy weather without precipitation or at temperatures below 15°C - 1–2 times a week. Watering is also required outside of the schedule in stressful situations: after each haircut and fertilizing.

It is impossible to water the lawn for future use. Such a measure is more likely to cause harm than benefit: excess moisture not only creates favorable environment for pathogenic fungi, but also deprives the roots of the stimulus to grow and impedes the supply of oxygen to them.

How much water do you need

The amount of water poured at one time also depends on several factors: the depth of groundwater, the moisture capacity of the soil, and weather conditions. The optimal watering rate is 10–30 l/m2 at a time.

The total water consumption is obtained by multiplying this number by the area of ​​the lawn. When watering, make sure that the water is completely absorbed into the soil and does not leave puddles. 15–20 minutes after its completion, check how deeply the moisture has been absorbed. Wetting the soil by 10 cm indicates a sufficient amount of water.

Watering methods

There are three main methods: sprinkling, drip irrigation, subsurface irrigation.

Sprinkling

Sprinkling is watering that simulates rain. The process can be manual or automatic (automated).

Manual watering is done from a hose ending in a sprayer, or less often from a watering can. The method is suitable for small lawns. Automatic or semi-automatic sprinkling is a complex consisting of a water supply system under pressure (pipeline, well, storage tank with a pump), hoses of suitable length, and sprinklers.

Sprinklers are divided into two groups: stationary and mobile. Everything is clear here, either they stand in certain places, ensuring sufficient moisture in all corners of the lawn, or they are moved around the lawn to cover the entire area. Sprinklers also vary in design; they either direct the flow of water in one direction, rotate or swing.

Sprinklers with pulsating spraying, equipped with rotating nozzles, are considered economical. Moisture is supplied in small portions, and during short breaks the sprinkler rotates to a specified angle. The water does not spread over the surface of the lawn, but manages to be absorbed into the soil.

Stationary sprinklers create certain inconveniences when mowing the lawn. There is no such problem with the retractable version: when turned off, it is hidden in the lower layer of the lawn. When turned on, it rises. However, this method is quite expensive, since you have to lay water pipes and install special nozzles. Equally important is constant good pressure in the water supply system.

Drip irrigation

A method that has long earned the recognition of summer residents, if only because watering can be carried out during the daytime: moisture is supplied directly to the roots of the grass. And saving water plays a special role in areas where its consumption is strictly regulated or payment (considerable!) is made according to the readings of flow meters. Drip irrigation can occur without human intervention, that is, it can be completely automatic. To do this, just set a timer that turns on the water supply at a certain time.

The only drawback is the rather labor-intensive process of pulling and coiling the hoses before and after each haircut.

Subsoil irrigation

The most expensive way to water a lawn, but it has a long list of advantages: the soil is saturated with oxygen; near-Earth air layer does not experience waterlogging; the risks of fungal diseases are minimized. Irrigation of the soil occurs through perforations in pipes, usually plastic, placed directly in the soil under the lawn. The method is ideal for maintaining the water regime of lawns located on slopes.

What not to do when watering your lawn

The attractiveness and health of your lawn largely depend on proper watering. Despite the apparent simplicity of the procedure, problems often arise, especially among novice summer residents. They are associated with gross violations of watering rules.

Short and frequent watering or watering several times a day. It leads to the near-surface development of the root system of lawn grass. Under such conditions, even drought-resistant species lose this quality, and their immunity is weakened.

Overflow, formation of puddles. Excess moisture either seeps into deeper layers, without bringing much benefit to the lawn, or stagnates on the surface, causing acidification of the soil or rotting of the grass. When laying out lawns in areas with uneven surfaces, a drainage system and gutters are provided to prevent stagnation of water after watering.

Unacceptable means of irrigation. A hose or watering can without a spray nozzle is applied mechanical damage lawn, eroding the soil and washing out the grass from it.

Temperature shock. Irrigation with cold water, i.e., with a temperature below 10°C, is unacceptable. This is the “sin” of underground watering the lawn and moistening with a hose if the water intake comes directly from a well or water supply. Optimal temperature water 15–25°C; with the drip method, the water has time to warm up before it hits the roots of the grass. In this regard, it is impossible to make a claim against the watering can if you fill it from the “standby” container.

Watering at the wrong time. A wet lawn has two enemies: the scorching sun and cold nights.

Gaining popularity rolled lawns require compliance with all the above watering rules, both after planting (spreading) and all subsequent times. It is important not to forget that they contain bluegrass, which is not particularly drought-resistant.

A well-groomed lawn not only decorates the area or serves as a fitness area, which, by the way, is healthier than the usual rug. It performs another important function: it cleanses and improves the health of the air. A properly watered lawn is good for the health of all the inhabitants of the dacha.

In the article: how to organize proper watering lawn; types of irrigation; irrigation methods and types of irrigation systems; choice of sprinklers and their cost; how to choose a lawn mower, types and prices; necessary garden tools, prices; how to mow the lawn; what work needs to be done and when; how to fight weeds; what fertilizers the lawn needs, how and when to introduce them; lawn care calendar.

Everything worked out - it was a success, the first shoots of grass are already breaking through the ground, turning the project into reality. In a week or two, the young lawn will delight its owners with delicate emerald greenery. And here some lawn owners make their first mistakes, sincerely assuming that lawn grass does not require any special care - after all, no one cares for it in the meadows. Likewise, a lawn is not a meadow, its grass mixture is carefully planned and calculated, it is formed cultivated plants, requiring increased attention.

Assuming landscaping of the area with a lawn, it is necessary to take care of lawn care: solve the watering problem, take care of periodically cutting the lawn grass, introduce mineral fertilizers, weed and pest control products, and aerate the soil. Not only do all these activities need to be carried out in in a certain order and consistency, they also require special equipment - lawn care using only bayonet shovel and a garden hose will be completely ineffective.

So, let’s break down lawn care into its tasks and components.

Lawn watering needs

Moisture evaporates well from the surface of the grass cover: in seven days, about 25 liters of water per m2. And if the owner of the lawn wants to enjoy its ideal appearance, it is necessary to water it - in the dry weather of the spring-summer season. The lack of moisture can be determined by checking the soil moisture at a depth of 100 mm. Lack of moisture can also be determined by appearance lawn grass - it fades and acquires a grayish tint. Meadow bluegrass is especially sensitive to low moisture content. At the same time, most weed plants tolerate drought well and, taking this opportunity, will not miss the opportunity to take over a large area of ​​the cultivated lawn.

To increase the resistance of lawn grass to drought, it is necessary to take measures to deepen and strengthen the horse system of the cultivated lawn. To do this: in the dry season, pierce the compacted layer of soil, and then mulch the lawn over its entire surface.

Watering your lawn should be done based on soil type and current weather. Lawns on sandy soils need watering more often than on alumina or loams - they retain moisture less well. And, of course, in hot weather, watering the lawn is necessary more often than in dry and cool weather. Based on average values, in hot weather and on sandy soils, lawns will require watering about twice a week; in cool weather, a single watering every 10 days is sufficient.

The basic rule for watering the lawn: it is necessary to water it so that the soil dries out between waterings - this is necessary to stimulate the root system of lawn grasses, since this way the roots will receive the air they require. With frequent watering (daily or every other day), lawns become overgrown with bryozoans and moss, and the active development of the superficial root system of grasses begins, which deteriorates the quality of the grass carpet.

Types of irrigation

That's right - I'm not mistaken! It would seem that watering is so difficult: it requires water, some equipment (minimum - a garden hose and a sprayer) and attentiveness in order to fully meet the needs of the plants. But no, watering the lawn has several purposes:

  • planting, as their name implies, is carried out during planting, their goal is to create sufficient conditions for the rapid establishment of green spaces. Water consumption for such irrigation is 2.5-3 m3 per hundred square meters;
  • Vegetative irrigation (the main type of irrigation) is carried out in order to increase moisture reserves under the turf layer. Their frequency is directly related to weather conditions, it is quite natural that during drought such watering is performed more often. Water consumption depends on the type of plant, depth of moisture and soil type. The approximate consumption is 0.5-1 m3 per hundred square meters;
  • fertilizing is carried out when introducing fertilizers, water consumption will be 1-1.5 m3 per hundred square meters;
  • refreshing ones are designed to protect plants from air drought; their effectiveness is higher if the soil layer contains moisture in sufficient quantities. Water consumption is 0.5-1m3 per hundred square meters;
  • moisture recharging is carried out mainly in autumn and occasionally in spring. Their goal is to create moisture reserves in both the upper and deep soil layers. The approximate rate of such irrigation is 8-12 m3 of water per hundred square meters. If groundwater lie close enough to the surface of the earth, then less water will be required - no more than 6 m3 per hundred square meters;
  • anti-frost protection is carried out in the spring one day before the predicted frosts, water consumption is 2-2.5 m3 per hundred square meters.

A couple of decades ago, the only means of irrigating your lawn were a watering can and a garden hose. There were simply no other products on sale - today every lawn owner faces wide choice sprinkler systems designed to make watering the lawn easier.

Why are sprinkler systems needed, i.e. devices that simulate rain? The fact is that you cannot water with a stream of water from a garden hose - damage to the lawn turf (erosion) will inevitably occur. Therefore, sprinklers (otherwise known as sprayers, sprinklers) are used, breaking the water stream into splashes (drops).

The simplest sprinklers are non-adjustable circular sprinklers - their design includes a support platform or a small peg, thanks to which they are easy to install and move from place to place. In operation, circular sprinklers resemble a small fountain and are quite suitable for small lawn areas. Their cost is low; if necessary, you can purchase and install several pieces at once, connecting them with hoses and connecting them to one water source. If you equip this simple watering system with a timer, it will be able to water without the participation of the lawn owner. Prices for non-adjustable circular sprinklers start from 70 rubles.

Caring for a large lawn will require more powerful system sprinklers, which includes movable circular sprayers that irrigate the area accessible to them by rotation or pulse (pulsation) of water. Large areas are irrigated in sections one by one; sprinklers are designed for them, capable of throwing water over long distances.

Rotating (priced from 500 rubles) - the water jet, spray diameter and watering distance are adjusted. Precise adjustment will eliminate the possibility of irrigating places that do not require watering (for example, a bench or gazebo).

Pulse (priced from 550 rubles) - uniform irrigation, longest watering distance (up to 500 m2).

Oscillating (priced from 750 rubles) - especially good for large areas shaped like a square or rectangle. They are designed like this: a hollow tube with nozzle holes mounted on a frame. Uniform watering lawn area occurs due to the tube swinging left and right. Oscillating sprinklers allow you to adjust the spray diameter, width and length of the irrigation zone (maximum area - up to 350 m2).

Manual watering

If the lawn area is not particularly large, and the owners have no desire to incur expenses for an automatic watering system, and the lawn itself is located, for example, near a house where someone constantly lives, you should choose manual watering. No, we are not talking about watering can buckets - you will need a high-quality garden hose and a special spray nozzle in the form of a pistol. This is the very case when it will be possible to expand the functions of watering products, for example, it will be possible to wash a car or water paths.

Domestic spray guns have a lower cost compared to European models (the price of Russian ones is from 80 rubles, imported ones are from 150 rubles), but they also have fewer capabilities - as a rule, only adjusting the size of the jet. Imported models are equipped with a switch (water flow interrupter), several water jet modes and a fixed trigger (spray guns). For watering the lawn, sprayers with a boom adjustable in length are especially convenient - this way, the most gentle watering mode is achieved, which does not erode the soil layer.

If we talk about the quality of garden hoses, they should be multi-layered - indeed good hose has up to 5 layers, the purpose of which is: the upper layers protect from exposure to the sun (ultraviolet), reinforced ones - for strength, and the inner ones (black) do not allow the simplest algae to develop. If we compare domestic (price - from 20 rubles per linear meter) and imported hoses (price - from 50 rubles per linear meter), then the former are often formed of only three layers and have more weight compared to the latter.

Automatic watering systems for large lawn areas

If the total area of ​​the lawn exceeds 6 acres, then watering it manually is quite difficult. You will need an irrigation system, most of which is hidden underground. It is almost impossible to build it yourself - you will need an accurate calculation of the elements, so it would be better to contact companies specializing in landscaping and landscape design. Such irrigation systems can be equipped with two types of sprinklers - above-ground (visible) and underground (recessed), the latter are extended only during irrigation, and upon completion are recessed into the underground system.

If we talk about aesthetic and functional conveniences, then underground sprinklers are more convenient: when they are not in use, they are not visible and do not interfere with mowing the lawn.

An important note: it is best to install an automatic watering system before planting (laying) lawn grass, i.e. to empty land plot and then carry out its landscaping.

Automatic watering controlled by computer

This system will be appreciated by fans of modern technology. If yours is surrounded by areas of lawn or other landscape vegetation, then this system is what you need.

Computerized automatic watering consists of the following elements: an underground irrigation system, sprinklers, a container with a supply of water (the volume depends on the areas being watered, a container of 2000 liters or more is especially convenient), a pump(s) of sufficient power, soil moisture sensors (tensiometers) and a control computer equipped with a special program.

The automatic watering system is installed strictly according to the technical plan, which calculates the watering needs of all types of plants planted (planted) in a given area. The system can be configured so that watering is carried out throughout the entire specified area or in fragments - after all, not all types of plants require frequent watering. Automatic watering works strictly according to a given program, which “turns it on” and “turns it off”, guided by the data contained in it (time, intensity, specified soil moisture, etc.). In addition to the elements of computerized automatic watering described above, it would not be amiss to equip such a system with a rain sensor - if it rains, then based on a signal from such a sensor, the computer will temporarily stop executing the watering program.

For some, installing a computerized irrigation system will seem like an unnecessary expense (of course, it is not cheap). However, in such a matter as caring for an expensive lawn of significant size, any human miscalculation can lead to a lack of soil moisture and drying out of the turf.

In addition to the aesthetic purpose, mowing lawns has practical purposes, depriving weeds of a chance to exist - mowing is contraindicated for them and after several such operations, most of the weeds will be destroyed. Regular mowing will ensure the creation of dense turf, high surface bushiness and stimulate the development of rhizomes. But there is one rule: you can cut lawn grass by no more than one-third of its height in one cut (on average, the growth of grass before cutting should be 12-15 cm). Otherwise, the plants will suffer excessive damage that they may not tolerate - do not forget that the grass is living!

After planting lawn grass, the first cutting is carried out when the length of the grass blades has reached 100 mm - you need to cut no more than 10 mm from the top. Be sure to ensure that your lawn mower blades are sharpened properly!

If planting was done in the fall, then you can mow the lawn for the first time only in the spring. In this case, the following conditions must be met, which are mandatory for each lawn mowing: the soil layer and grass must be dry at the time of mowing! After the first mowing, with each subsequent cut, the lawn mower blades can be lowered lower and lower.

Regular (usually every 5-14 days) mowing of the lawn is carried out before the onset of autumn cold weather.

Lawnmowers

Of course you can use it for mowing the lawn old way- Lithuanian braid. True, achieving a perfectly even grass carpet will be difficult; experience will be required. It is more convenient to use a lawn mower - garden tool, which is an indispensable attribute of lawn care today. There are several types of lawn mowers: electric (price - from 3,800 rubles (with storage, not self-propelled), self-propelled - from 14,500 rubles), petrol (price - from 8,000 rubles (without storage, not self-propelled), self-propelled with drive - from 11,300 rubles), mechanical (price - from 3,500 rubles (without drive)) and battery (price - from 13,000 rubles (with drive, not self-propelled).

For small lawn areas, mechanical lawn mowers are suitable: they are easy to operate, they do not require any special care and they do not need gasoline or electricity - a person acts as the driving force. Lawn mowing with such lawn mowers must be done quite often, since they cannot cope with long grass pile. However, it is precisely these lawn mowers that are used for mowing parterre lawns - their cylindrical mechanism is better suited for this than others.

Electric lawn mowers are especially popular with owners of landscaped gardens whose lawn areas do not exceed 8 acres. If the area of ​​the plot is larger, then you will need a battery-powered lawn mower, or the installation of several stationary electrical outlets in the garden.

A gasoline lawn mower is designed for really large areas; unlike other types, it requires frequent maintenance and is also noisy in operation. Gasoline lawn mowers are superior in power to all other types. Some models are able to carefully cut the lawn on slopes and easily cope with tall grass - they are ideal for meadow and Moorish lawns.

When choosing a lawn mower, it is important to pay attention not only to its type (electric, gasoline, etc.), but also to the following points: power, mowing width and cutting height, speed and weight, body type and principle of movement (self-propelled or non-self-propelled) . The type of blades installed on the lawn mower matters - if you have a ground lawn, then choose a lawn mower with a cylindrical blade (beautiful stripes and a neat cut will be guaranteed).

You should also pay attention to the number of wheels (if trees are planted in places on the lawn, it is better to choose a three-wheeled lawn mower); for lawn areas over 5 acres, it is better to choose a lawn mower with a wide grip (at least 500 mm).

For really large lawns (over 10 acres) you will need special lawn mowers - riders (price - from 70,000 rubles (with drive)) and mini-tractors (price - from 64,000 rubles (with drive)). This equipment is equipped with a spacious grass collector; the mower will not tirelessly follow such a lawn mower - he will ride on it. Compared to mini-tractors, riders have greater capabilities: they can be used to mow the lawn, remove leaves, moss and debris, and remove snow in winter. They will also facilitate the procedure for introducing lawn fertilizers.

Trimmers - electric or gasoline scythes

These devices are a circular knife on a long handle, rotated by a motor (electric or gasoline) located either at the top or bottom of the handle-bar.

Their purpose is to mow lawns in places where a lawn mower cannot reach. Electric trimmers have great advantages (price - from 1,000 rubles) - they are more compact and lighter than gasoline trimmers (price - from 1,400 rubles).

Other equipment needed for lawn care

In addition to equipment for mowing the lawn, you will need a rake, preferably a fan one, with spring teeth (price - from 50 rubles). They will need to collect leaves and grass felt, dry grass and cut stems after mowing with a lawn mower, if it is not equipped with a grass catcher.

You will need an aerator - a simple device with hollow teeth (aerators come in the form of sandals (foot) - price from 250 rubles, mechanical - price from 1,600 rubles and electric - price from 5,800 rubles). This device is designed to introduce into the soil layers the air needed by plant roots and remove excess moisture into the deep layers of the soil. The soil of the lawn becomes caked and compacted over time, mosses take over it, so it is necessary to periodically pierce it with an aerator. Mechanical aerators are similar to a toothed roller, while electric aerators are more like lawn mowers. Last type aerators cause less damage to the grass, so they can be aerated several times during the warm season.

To process the edges of a grass carpet, you will need a special knife (that’s what it’s called - a knife for processing edges, it can easily be replaced by a trimmer if you have already bought one), to remove the roots of weeds - a lawn knife (root digger) (price - from 80 rubles). Using a sprayer, it is easier to control weeds and pests, as well as introduce mineral fertilizers in liquid form. A mechanical seeder (price - from 350 rubles) is useful for overseeding planting material, and for the introduction of mineral fertilizers in the form of granules. And with the help garden vacuum cleaner(price - from 3,500 rubles) you can quickly remove fallen leaves and debris from the surface of the lawn.

Lawn fertilization and weed control

The first rule here is that any lawn requires fertilizer. How often to apply fertilizer - the answer to this question is directly related to how often the lawn is mowed. Cutting off the top of lawn grass removes an important portion of the accumulated life mass it has extracted from the soil. The lawn owner needs to make up for this loss by introducing after each mowing a fertilizer mixture consisting of 2 g of potassium, 2 g of nitrogen and 3 g of phosphorus per m 2 of lawn. As a rule, such fertilizer mixtures are sold in retail outlets under the label “spring fertilizers”; they must be administered according to the instructions on the package from the beginning of the warm season until August. These fertilizers are designed to stimulate the development of the root system and the green part of the lawn. From the beginning of September, it is necessary to introduce “autumn fertilizers” into the soil of the lawn, which do not include nitrogen - it is intended to stimulate the active growth of lawn grass, and in the fall there is no need for this, because The lawn needs to be prepared for the cold period.

After mowing, all cut grass must be removed - it cannot serve as fertilizer, because obtaining compost from it requires special conditions and time. In the fall, after the last mowing, it is best to leave the cut grass on the lawn, evenly distributing it over the surface of the grass carpet - in winter it will serve protective layer for turf.

It is best to remove weeds from lawn areas manually, however, this method is only suitable for single weed plants. If weeds have seriously attacked your lawn, then use selective herbicides to eliminate the problem.

Lawn care requires serious attention - this is the only way you can enjoy a magnificent grass carpet year after year. To make scheduling tasks easier, I offer a monthly lawn care calendar.

Month What needs to be done and why
January The main threat to the lawn this month will be low temperatures, therefore, after the first autumn frosts, the lawn should be at rest. Until a stable snow cover appears, you cannot walk on the lawn area - if you neglect this rule, then in the spring a careless owner will observe brown bald patches of damaged grass on it. Lawn grass is highly cultivated, which means it is less protected compared to wild plants.
In addition, this month the lawn is threatened by icing - the appearance of a crust of ice that blocks air exchange. It is necessary to break the ice crust as it appears, using a rake or other available tool.
February As a rule, during this period, the lawn is securely covered under the cover of snow and nothing threatens it. It's time to prepare the lawn mower for the upcoming spring work: disassemble, clean and lubricate, sharpen the blades or replace them with new ones, check the insulation of the power cable and extension cord; for a gasoline lawn mower, you need to change the oil and check the functionality of the spark plugs. Check and prepare other equipment. If at the right time it turns out to be faulty, time will be lost, which is unacceptable when caring for an expensive lawn.
Check the thickness of the snow cover: if it is 200-250 mm, everything is in order, the turf is reliably protected from freezing and provided with sufficient moisture reserves at the beginning of spring. If the thickness is smaller, you need to take care of snow retention - install plywood (plastic, wooden, etc.) shields on the lawn at an angle of 90° to the prevailing wind direction. You can use the snow removed from the paths during clearing - it needs to be evenly distributed over the surface of the lawn.
Do not give in to the persuasion of children and do not arrange a skating rink on the lawn in country house— lawn grasses can freeze on the root because the surface layer of soil freezes. Do not forget about the possibility of ice crust formation - be sure to destroy it.
March Melting snow can lead to excessive waterlogging of certain areas of the lawn - this is caused by insufficient drainage of the lawn. Any puddles should be removed using a regular fork or an aerator fork (with hollow teeth). Minimize movement on the surface of the lawn, as this can lead to surface defects in the form of ruts, potholes or footprints (such phenomena are especially common in young lawns).
April The air temperature no longer drops into the minus zone of the thermometer? It's time to introduce “spring fertilizers” - they will ensure rapid restoration of the turf after winter cold and accelerate the growth of the lawn.
Verticulate (comb) the lawn, provided that the top layer of soil is dry. Using a fan rake or regular rake, go lengthwise and crosswise across the lawn, removing any felt (dry, matted stems) that has formed. In addition to cleaning the surface, this measure will improve the air exchange of the turf and protect it from diseases.
Inspect the surface of the lawn and reseed in places where grass sprouts are rare with a grass mixture identical to the main lawn. To do this, distribute the seeds evenly in the required areas, compact these areas with a roller or wide board(with a sheet of plywood), then water the entire lawn in the evening.
If for some reason you were unable to introduce fertilizers when the snow melted, do it now, after verticulation and overseeding are completed.
May It's time for the first mowing of this season - do it by cutting off no more than 1/3 of the height of the grass. You can't cut your hair shorter, because... the lawn is not yet strong enough. Carefully remove all grass clippings from the surface of the lawn (it is better to use a lawn mower with a grass catcher), otherwise it will rot.
If you find foci of disease on the lawn that have not been helped by verticulation and fertilizing, apply to them radical measures. You need to set the lawn mower blades to maximum cutting and completely mow out the area affected by the disease, then dig up this area with a bayonet blade until the bayonet is fully immersed with turning over the earthen layers, carefully loosen the dug up soil with a rake. After 10 days, seed this area with a grass mixture similar to the main lawn.
June If all the spring activities were carried out in full and on time, then the lawn carpet now looks just great. Care at this time is traditional - cutting and watering. You need to keep your lawnmower blades sharp - cutting with a dull blade will cause the tops of the grass to die and turn an unsightly brown color. When cutting, to maintain the density of the grass stand and protect it from weeds, at least 40 mm of the grass stem should be preserved. At active growth Grass mowing is carried out more often (every 3-5 days), no more than a third of the grass stem is cut off at a time. Each mowing should be accompanied by watering; the lawn should also be watered between mowings - in dry weather. Watering is carried out either early in the morning or in the evening, to minimize moisture evaporation. Do not allow puddles to form.
Periodically introduce a complex of “spring fertilizers,” especially if the lawn grass changes color from dark to light green.
July The hottest period affecting the growth and development of lawn grass. Required sufficient watering, and there is no need to carry it out every day - this will have a detrimental effect on the root system, inhibiting its development laterally and in depth. The interval between waterings is determined by the first signs of lack of moisture - the grass begins to fade and fade slightly. Watering is best done in evening hours, abundantly, but not in an open stream - only broken into drops.
In the hot and dry season, fertilizers should be added immediately before evening watering.
Compaction of the topsoil is inevitable. To maintain sufficient air exchange, aeration and mulching will be required. The frequency of this work depends on how quickly the soil will be compacted again, and treatment of the entire area is not required - it is enough to aerate only the compacted areas.
August Owners of Moorish lawns need to track the flowering periods of the plants that form them and determine the mowing time (the moment when most annual plants has already bloomed, and the perennials have not yet begun to bloom). When mowing such lawns, you need to install the lawn mower blades so that the length of the plant stems after mowing is at least 80 mm. After the haircut Moorish lawn requires watering, and at the end of August - fertilizing to stimulate growth and flowering.
Best methods Weed control will be fairly frequent mowing and watering - the density of the turf and grass carpet improves, suppressing weeds. If this method is insufficient, use selective herbicides.
September Autumn coolness and rain are coming. Mowing and watering should continue. When thinning areas of the lawn appear, carry out reseeding measures similar to the spring ones (described above, in the May work).
October It's time to prepare your lawn for the winter cold. Introduce fertilizing with “autumn fertilizers”, which increases the frost resistance of lawns and resistance to disease. To do this: after completing each mowing, spread the fertilizer evenly by hand or using a mechanical seeder. In autumn, you should not use fertilizers that contain nitrogen!
Completely aerate areas of the lawn in dry weather - this measure is necessary to drain rain moisture into the deeper layers of the soil. If aeration is not performed, the first frosts will form an ice crust on the lawn, which is detrimental to the root system of lawn grasses.
November It's time for the last lawn mowing of the year. It needs to be carried out either at the end of October or at the beginning of November in such a way that the lawn grass can recover and gain 20-30 mm in growth, reaching a height of 60-80 mm. A large length of grass will lead to freezing; a shorter length will not provide the plant with enough oxygen, since the leaf area will be too small.
It is necessary to frequently clean the surface of the lawn from fallen leaves, dry grass and branches, bird droppings - i.e. felt formed by all this. Otherwise, this layer will interfere with ventilation and irrigation, promote the development of rot and diseases, and reduce the resistance of plants to frost.
December So that's it necessary measures adopted for wintering lawn vegetation. As soon as frost sets in, the lawn will go into a state of winter dormancy. Until a layer of snow of 200-250 mm forms, completely exclude children from playing and walking animals on its territory, and do not allow the snow cover to be disturbed.
Monitor the formation of an ice crust, which causes the accumulation of carbon dioxide under it and, as a result, oxygen starvation of plants. It is necessary to destroy it in a timely manner using a rake.
At the beginning of winter, clean and lubricate the working elements of lawn equipment and prepare it for winter storage.

Rustam Abdyuzhanov, specially for rmnt.ru

Watering the lawn is one of the mandatory conditions its healthy and beautiful appearance, especially in regions with hot, dry summers. If it rains rarely and watering is not done regularly, the grass burns out and grass appears on the lawn. yellow spots. To restore the lawn to its former beauty, it will take a lot of time and a large volume of water, since surface wetting will not be enough: the water must penetrate at least 5-6 centimeters into the soil.

How to water correctly? You can, of course, use a hose, but the best solution To save water and time spent on watering, an automatic watering system will be created. Pipe laying is carried out after preparing the soil for the lawn, before sowing the grass mixture! A mature lawn will require opening up the turf and then restoring it once the work is completed. More simple solution in this case, automatic watering will be organized using the system drip irrigation, but such a system can only cover a small area.

1. Irrigation system with sprinklers

Installation of an automatic lawn watering system equipped with sprinklers involves performing work according to a specific plan. First of all, you need to draw up a project: draw a site plan, marking on it the areas that need irrigation. In accordance with the irrigation area and the shape of the lawn, the required number of sprinklers, their type and brand are calculated, and their placement diagram is drawn on the plan. The next step is to determine where to connect the system’s power supply and water intake (plumbing, well or well).

The principle of operation of the system is as follows: a pump or pumping station is connected to the water intake point, which supplies water through a filter and electromagnetic valves through a pipeline to the sprinklers. If not enough flow rate(power) water intake point or pressure water, then the water is first pumped into a storage tank, and from it is supplied to the irrigation system. Water supply pipes are laid in trenches. For automatic control the system is connected to the controller.

Automatic lawn watering - circuit diagram systems (source: poliv.ua)

Lawn watering equipment

1. Pump or pumping station.

By using pump or pumping station water is delivered from the water intake point (well, well, water supply) to the irrigation zone. For the system to work correctly, it is important not to make a mistake with the power of the equipment.

First, let's determine the necessary water consumption for watering the lawn.

The water consumption of one sprinkler per minute is multiplied by the number of sprinklers. For example, 2 l/min * 10 pcs. = 20 l/min flow rate of all sprinklers in the system or 20 * 60 = 1200 l per hour = 1.2 cubic meters per hour.

To keep the sprinklers working, water pressure in the system must meet the manufacturer's requirements (this value can be found in the instructions). In this case, the radius of the watered sector depends on the pressure value.

For example, a Hunter PGJ-12 rotary sprinkler:

  • recommended range pressure: from 1.7 to 3.8 bar;
  • consumption water: 2.2 - 20.5 l/min,

with a minimum irrigation sector, water consumption per hour of 10 sprinklers will be 2.2 * 10 * 60 = 1320 l/hour = 1.3 cubic meters per hour

The instructions for the pump usually indicate its capacity (cubic meters/hour) and pressure (in meters). 10 meters is approximately equal to 1 bar.

For example, pumping station Gilex Jumbo 50/28 Ch-14:

  • productivity 3 cubic meters per hour
  • head 28 meters = 2.8 bar

It should be taken into account that as water passes through the pipes, some of the pressure is lost. This loss is approximately 1-1.5 bar per 100 meters.

As a result of the calculation, we found out that the power of this pumping station more than covers the needs of automatic irrigation from 10 sprinklers. (Note that more powerful hardware costs more.)

If the automatic watering system is connected directly to the water supply, it is necessary to measure the water pressure in it using a pressure gauge. Measurements are taken twice - with one tap turned on, which provides only the irrigation system, and with two or three taps turned on. Next, we determine the water consumption per minute using a stopwatch and a container with a known volume (for example, a 10-liter bucket).

If the water supply will be provided by water from a well, it is necessary to take into account its flow rate (indicated in the well passport). If there is no well passport, measurements are carried out in the same way as in the case of a water supply.

We calculate the required daily volume of water based on the lawn watering rate. The lawn watering rate is 10 liters per square meter. meter, respectively:

S (lawn area) sq.m. * 0.01 cubic meters /m.sq. = daily volume of water for irrigation m3.

Divide the daily volume by the watering time (no more than 6 hours). The result obtained should not exceed the maximum flow rate of the well. If the well's flow rate is not enough even with increasing watering time, it is necessary to install a storage tank. The container should have time to accumulate during the time between waterings.

What kind of pump is needed for an automatic lawn watering system?

Centrifugal pumps are considered the most suitable for organizing automatic watering. Such pumps are characterized by ease of operation, ability to maintain constant pressure for a long time, and reliability.

For proper operation The pump tank must be filled with water before turning on.

The pump can be submersible or surface pump.

When watering from a well or borehole, micropollutants - particles of soil, silt, sand - can enter the system. To avoid clogging of sprinkler nozzles and extend their service life, it is necessary to install a filter.

If the pressure in the system is not constant, then for proper operation of the automatic watering system, a special regulator is needed that maintains the preset water pressure at the outlet.

4. Pipes.

The pipeline consists of two parts:

  1. the main pipe that connects the water supply to the solenoid valves, and
  2. pipe sections through which water is supplied to the sprinklers.

It is necessary to lay pipes as straight as possible, avoiding unnecessary turns and branches, since in these areas there is a large loss of water pressure.

From the right choice The diameter of the pipe determines the pressure with which water will be supplied to the sprinklers and its volume. This parameter is also consistent with the outlet on the pump - if the diameter of the outlet is 1 inch, then the pipe central highway take sizes 25 mm or 32 mm. In secondary sections (branches), the diameter of the pipe is consistent with the diameter of the outlet hole of the solenoid valve. To maintain pressure on the branches, pipes of a smaller diameter than the main pipe can be used.

Fittings for automatic watering are needed to create branches and turning sections, connecting pipes, and transitioning from one pipe diameter to another.

6. Solenoid valves.

Valves open and close the flow of water to irrigation areas. The valve sizes are selected taking into account water flow. They are located in the ground, in special plastic boxes with a top cover that can be opened for maintenance. The valves are controlled by a controller.

7. Controller.

A device that is installed to control the entire irrigation system. The entire automatic system is controlled by a program that opens and closes solenoid valves at a certain time, ensuring watering according to a given schedule. Weather sensors can be connected to the controller to signal rain. Bye it's raining– irrigation does not work, as soon as the rain stops – the program returns to the mode of supplying water for irrigation.

8. Sprinklers (other names: sprinkler, sprayer, sprinkler, sprinkler)

There are two types of sprinklers used for watering lawns: rotary and fan (static). Fan sprinklers spray water 360 degrees. Their watering radius can reach 6 meters. Some fan sprinklers are equipped with removable (replaceable) nozzles.

Rotary sprinklers rotate to gradually water specific areas. For advanced models, the irrigation angle is adjustable.

Using sprinklers different types in one watering zone is undesirable. Sprinkler sprinklers are more often used for small lawns, while rotary sprinklers are used to water even golf courses.

The main rule for the location of sprinklers is that the irrigation zones intersect. When choosing their location, it is necessary to ensure that stationary objects for which moisture is undesirable are not watered - a house, a fence, paths, and also take into account the placement of trees and shrubs that will interfere with proper spraying and high humidity may be affected by various diseases.

9. Water intake sockets.

This is a convenient additional option for an automatic watering system. Water intake sockets are installed on the main section of the lawn watering system and are always under pressure. They are intended for temporary connection for a specific purpose, for example: watering trees or shrubs, replenishing a pond with water, washing a car or paths.

Division into watering zones

Sometimes the flow rate of the water intake source may not be enough to simultaneously water a large area of ​​lawn. Then several branches are made from the main pipe, creating separate irrigation zones. Before each layering install solenoid valve. The controller regulates the sequence of watering zones. Also, separate watering zones must be arranged if part of the lawn is on the sunny side and part is in the shade. In the shade, the lawn is watered less often.

System Maintenance

The lawn watering system is not dismantled for the winter, so it is necessary to prepare it for winter. There may be water left in the pipes, which will damage them if they freeze. To drain water, a special tap or valve (or several such taps) is installed at the lowest point of the system. If it is not possible to drain all the water, it is necessary to blow out the system with compressed air.

2. Drip irrigation

System drip irrigation laid on the surface of the lawn and does not require digging into the ground, so it is easy to organize on a mature lawn. Typically, such a system is used on small or narrow lawns where it is inconvenient or impractical to install a system with sprinklers. Drip irrigation is mainly used for watering shrubs and vegetable gardens (including in greenhouses).

The equipment required for drip irrigation is the same as for an automatic irrigation system with sprinklers, with the exception of pipes and the sprinklers themselves. Instead, special hoses or drip irrigation tapes are laid. The most modern are tapes with emitters. Emitters are droppers of a complex device that are located inside the hose at a certain distance from each other.

Advantages of a drip irrigation system:

  • There is no need to dig trenches to lay pipes.
  • The irrigation zone is regulated more clearly and simply, in contrast to watering with sprinklers.
  • The irrigation zone may include those plants for which sprinkling may be harmful: flowers, vegetable beds, shrubs.
  • The influence of wind is excluded.

Disadvantages of drip irrigation:

  • The fragility of the tape.
  • The need to dismantle all equipment for the winter.
  • There is a risk of damage to the system by animals.

The drip irrigation system can be connected to an irrigation system with sprinklers through a special reducer that reduces the pressure.

Conclusion

A properly installed automatic lawn watering system will free you from tedious and time-consuming watering with a hose and will provide a beautiful looking grass surface. If the area allocated for a green lawn is small, then it is quite possible to carry out the installation yourself.

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