You've probably noticed that furniture assembled from a thicker laminate looks more solid; in addition, thicker parts are less likely to deform, which is especially important for countertops. But what if the slabs required thickness is not on sale or you only need one part (for example, a tabletop) and buying a whole sheet for this is somehow unprofitable.
In such cases, they resort to fusion of laminated chipboards in thickness. The essence of the method is gluing two or more laminate sheets and subsequently facing them with a common edge.
For example, from 16 and 10 mm sheets you get 26 mm, from two 16 mm - 32. Please note that all sizes are standard (otherwise I once puzzled over why 32 and not 30)))
There are three main fusion techniques:
1. On self-tapping screws - used when one side of the resulting sheet will not be visible or the heads of the screws will be masked, for example, by shelves. With it, two sheets, previously coated with glue, are pulled together with self-tapping screws screwed into countersunk holes drilled on one side. Because V in this case, a slight displacement is very likely, then the parts are sawn 3-5 mm larger than the required dimensions and, after the glue has dried, they are brought to required sizes and geometry.
2. The second option is simple gluing blanks that are tightened with clamps. In this case, the workpieces are sawn “to size”, which means that attention should be paid Special attention preventing their displacement relative to each other.
3. The third option is economical and is usually used for. With it, strips of laminate left after cutting are glued to the lower (invisible) part of the tabletop. This method, along with increasing the strength of the product, makes it possible to make maximum use of the laminated chipboard sheet.
After the glue has dried (and, if necessary, modified the geometry of the ends), select a groove for the edging, etc.
Glue a crack in chipboard
(post too old to reply)
2005-01-12 11:31:32 UTC
Greetings, Gen911!
Wednesday January 12 2005 09:16, Gen911 -> Yuri Grigoriev:
G> loads,
G> the same as carpentry, as far as I understand.
The hardness of the adhesive joint is regulated by the amount of hardener and plasticizer in
resin
And as intended epoxy adhesives There are different ones, for example "Lastan" -
positioned for gluing leather, etc. materials.
Best regards, Sergey Din.
2005-01-12 14:33:28 UTC
Happy New Year _/#*Gen911!*#/_ Good luck and health to you!
G> The board (wall) in the shelf cracked. It is not possible to replace the board,
G> only with a shelf. The board on which the shelf hangs, that is, the screws in
G> her. It needs to be glued somehow so that it is as strong as new.
G> Chipboard is glued chips. What to glue (fill a crack)
G> can you advise? But so that the glue is available, and specifically for chipboard
G> applicable.
I used epoxy glue.
G> He is too inflexible. It just cracks and crumbles into dust when
G>
║ The doctor fills out a medical history and asks the patient questions: - Do you drink?
║ The patient animatedly: - Is there any?
Best regards! Ilfat Kutdusov
2005-01-12 14:45:31 UTC
Greetings
I used epoxy glue.
G> He is too inflexible. It just cracks and crumbles into dust when
G> loads, just like carpentry, as far as I understand.
I have one practical case. The fastening of the old sofa was broken
the backrests are replaced with a piece of chipboard. I secured the walls tightly, filled the mounting area
a puddle of epoxy (so the fastening pin is only held on by epoxy. Already the 7th
It's held on for a year and survived one move ;-)
Cool. But it would probably be better to make a composite - not pure epoxy,
and several layers of cloth soaked in epoxy and fill it all in. I think,
that would be even more reliable.
2005-01-12 22:05:00 UTC
Hello Sergey!
Wed Jan 12 2005, Sergey Din writes to Gen911:
SD> By the way, in the chipboard itself it was previously used as a binder
SD> phenol-formaldehyde resin is essentially the same epoxy.
It is a binder, but if the chipboard is broken, then chips are torn along the break,
shavings, fibers that should hold the load. So the problem arises
glue a bunch of wood chips together at the ends and hope to achieve the same bending strength
and rupture.
Bye
Anatoly
2005-01-13 06:42:20 UTC
Greetings, Anatoly!
Thursday January 13 2005 01:05, Anatoly Popov -> Sergey Din:
AP> The binder is a binder, but if the chipboard is broken, then along the fault they are torn
AP> chips, shavings, fibers that should hold the load. So
AP> the task arises of gluing a bunch of wood chips together at the ends and hoping to achieve
AP> same flexural and tensile strength.
If it’s cracked across, it’s easier for mine to throw it away/replace, if it’s small
delamination along the slab, then you can try to restore it.
- clean the seam from debris (remains of shavings),
-mix the epoxy correctly (to begin with, you can make a control mixture and
let it harden)
- saturate the seam with glue (the fluidity of epoxy increases with heating - but when
this speeds up hardening)
-compress the area to be glued with a clamp (vice), through gaskets (for
uniform load distribution),
-you can put a plastic film between the gasket and the chipboard (so as not to
stuck),
- turn the seam upside down (epoxy has a habit of leaking out),
- wait until it hardens
- “after assembly, process with a file” (C) folk
if the gap was large - for example there was a hole, it can be used as a filler
use sawdust or medical cotton wool.
Best regards, Sergey Din.
2005-01-13 20:28:00 UTC
Hello Sergey!
Thu Jan 13 2005, Sergey Din writes to Anatoly Popov:
SD> - saturate the seam with glue (the fluidity of the epoxy increases
SD> with heating - but this accelerates hardening),
Of these
You can splash acetone into it. Just don’t overdo it, otherwise it’s just water
it will work out. Then it will take a little longer to harden, but the acetone will slowly
will fade away.
Bye
Anatoly
2005-01-14 06:45:53 UTC
Greetings, Anatoly!
Thursday January 13 2005 23:28, Anatoly Popov -> Sergey Din:
AP>
AP> increases with solvent. From what is used around the house,
Best regards, Sergey Din.
2005-01-14 08:33:43 UTC
Happy New Year _/#*Sergey!*#/_ Good luck and health to you!
AP>> Epoxy flow, as well as its flow into cracks and flowability
AP>>
AP>> farm is used,
SD> I know, but when working to fill the volume it will shrink, but is it necessary?
It's okay. Nobody talked about speed. So it’s quite possible
glue in two or more passes
║ I work as a mechanic at a women's factory. You spend the whole shift rubbing yourself in women's team
║ but there is no happiness - only an erection (man, about 40 years old).
Best regards! Ilfat Kutdusov
2005-01-14 19:51:00 UTC
Hello Sergey!
Fri Jan 14 2005, Sergey Din writes to Anatoly Popov:
AP>> Epoxy flow, as well as its flow into cracks and flowability
AP>> of these increases with the help of a solvent. From what
AP>> farm is used,
SD> I know, but when working to fill the volume it will shrink, but is it necessary?
kneading, then it will dissolve in the wood and disperse through the pores of the chipboard, and in
As a result, there will be nothing to sit down. It'll just slow down for a while
polymerization, and the hardened resin will retain its plasticity a little longer.
Bye
Anatoly
2005-01-15 15:26:29 UTC
Greetings, Anatoly!
Friday January 14 2005 22:51, Anatoly Popov -> Sergey Din:
AP> Shrinkage can be neglected. A significant part of the acetone evaporates even when
AP> kneading, then it will dissolve in the wood and scatter through the pores of the chipboard, and
Shrinkage is quite significant and the surface is flat if not used.
fillers will not work.
Judging by the way the author of the original letter asked how to glue, complicate
his life is not worth diluting with the need. By the way, I myself quite often
I dilute epoxy with acetone, but in this case I would not recommend it.
Best regards, Sergey Din.
Andrew Mitrohin
2005-01-15 19:50:17 UTC
*_Be healthy_*, /_Anatoly_/!
AP> The fluidity of epoxy, as well as its flow into cracks and flow out of
AP> of these increases with the help of a solvent. From the housework
AP> is used, you can splash acetone into it. Just don’t overdo it, but
AP> it will turn out to be just water. Then it will take a little longer to harden,
AP> but the acetone will slowly disappear.
Only epoxy will be at least porous, which will not add strength to it.
And in general, after adding acetone, I ended up with a piece of rubber that bends
At least it's been over a year, and something still won't go away... ;)
/With respect/, _/Andrew/_...
- [Russian rock music] -
In order to bring the furniture into proper shape, you can use glue different composition. How can you find out which of the products of the modern chemical industry will be more effective in the case of a particular plywood sofa or chipboard cabinet? Knowledgeable people It’s not for nothing that they recommend consulting with professionals on composition and action different types glue before starting work, focusing on some attractive photo.
When choosing an adhesive, certain recommendations must be followed.
Among them:
- Type of surfaces to be pecked. Usually on the tube in the “application” section it is indicated for which materials the glue is suitable. If this is not the case, then in our age of network technologies there is nothing easier than purchasing necessary information in other ways. You can find out whether this composition glues wood by looking at the components contained in the tube. If the constituent elements are not known, then it will be easier to throw away this tube unknown to nature than to install numerous chemical experiments to check your own conclusions. This can also ruin the furniture. If it is made of chipboard or wood, then this is especially easy to do.
- Type of coating base. The glue can firmly grip the surface, but at the same time corrode the base of the furniture. This can be avoided by choosing synthetic elastomers. Usually they are not capable of such nasty things.
- The adhesive does not contain trichloroethane. This substance is very harmful. Its fumes can cause significant harm to an unsuspecting person who simply wants to choose an adhesive to fix his wooden chest of drawers. The worst thing is that when water gets on this substance, an irreversible oxidation process begins, completely nullifying all attempts to bring your furniture to the look shown in photos in fashionable design magazines.
- The presence of components such as synthetic rubber and solvent. Working with them cannot cause any damage, since their fumes are not so harmful. In addition, they have proven themselves to be excellent in gluing furniture made of wood and plywood.
- Glue color range. Typically, manufacturers limit themselves to white or yellow tones. When treating the surface with glue and subsequent compression, there should be no extra tint options left in the crack. Agree, the furniture will look completely different if colors appear against the background of mahogany. yellow spots or white zigzags. IN modern world wild competition in the construction market, in particular, in the production of glue, each manufacturer fights for the client. For some, this struggle is expressed in the reduction of harmful substances, for some - in the addition of high-tech elements, for others - in improving and increasing the spectrum of colors.
- Density of furniture glue. The minimum indicators are 1.1 g/cm3. It's a fairly runny consistency, but it's enough to set firmly. All indicators below this mark will not be in proper contact with both materials being glued.
The most popular types of adhesives
- Animal glue. This glue has long faded into the background, but is still used today for manual veneering. It looks like grains or granules. They can be melted in water and turned into glue using a glue maker. This is the most time-consuming of the proposed options. Animal glue is non-toxic. If you glue your furniture with it, then in a hundred years restorers will warmly thank you - it is surprisingly easy to work with. It regains its adhesive properties when exposed to high temperatures and when wet.
- Hot melt adhesive. Known primarily for its shape. The gun is most convenient when working in hard to reach places, in the cracks. It also hardens very quickly, making it a lifesaver for immediate furniture repairs. There is another, less common type of it - glue in the form of sheets for making plywood. It is very convenient to lay it between layers and fasten, for example, a loose corner.
- PVA glue. It gained universal popularity due to its low cost. The photo of his glue line is flawless. Non-toxic, has a wide range of applications. Everyone knows him and loves working with him. Woodworkers are no exception. When choosing, you should take into account the specifics of the glue. There are special ones that are especially durable. These are quite suitable for furniture. There is thick PVA. Its difference is yellow. It is developed on the basis of aliphatic compounds. When it dries, it gives less noticeable elasticity to the seam. The three adhesives listed above are contact adhesives. When using them, a certain procedure is usually followed.
- Urea-formaldehyde glue. It is used when filling containers and potholes. Chemical reactions in the substance occur in such a way that it hardens slowly when the dry powder is mixed with water. Apply it to both surfaces. Sometimes hardeners are used. The glue is very toxic and is of little use in ordinary apartment. In any case, to maintain health, careful ventilation is necessary to remove its decay products.
- Resorbent glue. Has much in common with the previous variety, but complements existing option certain advantages: water resistance and lack of weathering. Photo of this glue is a powder and a liquid, in some cases two liquids. One of them is the hardener, the other is the glue itself. If you glue furniture with this glue, you should regularly ventilate the room. Resorcinol-formaldehyde resin is mixed with the hardener immediately before use. The color scheme of the frozen seam is brown with a reddish admixture. So it is not recommended to use it on light wood. And on red it’s the other way around. Its peculiarity is that it hardens poorly when low temperatures. If the temperature during gluing is -15 or below, the mixture may not set at all.
Chipboard, plywood or natural wood may have increased or decreased moisture levels. This always affects grip. The lower the humidity, the better glue absorbed into the surface. But it may be absorbed before it hardens.
Choose furniture glue carefully, because its quality determines how long the product will serve you.
When restoring furniture, you need to have not only quality parts, but also glue. The reliability of the design depends on this. Incorrectly selected products can ruin appearance products and their functionality. The instructions do not always help you find out what material the glue is suitable for.
There are many types of glue, differing in color, consistency, and composition. There are suitable products for each material. If you select them correctly, the structure will be durable.
Selection rules
To purchase suitable glue for furniture, you need to consider simple rules:
- type of surface: usually it is written on the packaging what materials the product is intended for;
- type of coating base: furniture glue can hold all parts together efficiently, but the base is damaged, so you should choose a product based on synthetic elastomers;
- composition: there should not be trichloroethane, which is very harmful to human health;
- presence of solvent: the components are harmless to humans;
- color: usually the product is presented in white or yellow, so it must be selected to match your furniture;
- density of the product: you need to choose an indicator not lower than 1.1 g/cm 3, which will be enough for high-quality work.
Simple rules will help you acquire suitable remedy and quality repair of the product.
Types of glue
In addition to the rules for choosing glue, you need to pay attention to the type of product. This will allow you to do a high-quality job of fastening items. There are several types of furniture glue. PVA, or polyvinyl acetate, which is divided into 2 types: for home and repair garden furniture. The second type is moisture resistant, but, since it is yellow in color, it can leave marks.
Latex is perfect for repairing products made of different materials, for whom strength and safety are important. It has better penetrating ability, which is why it is chosen for the restoration of mechanically stressed furniture. There are no toxic substances in the composition.
For furniture it is intended for fastening plastic parts. You must work with the product carefully, since gluing occurs immediately. But since rubber is present in the composition, the glue does not harden.
Recovery oily wood You need the right furniture adhesive. Which one is better to use? Suitable for this The product is moisture resistant, therefore ideal for garden designs. After work, an invisible seam remains.
Polyurethane adhesive-sealant is used in fastening products with gaps. The product can be used to restore any furniture. The exposure duration is 1 minute. After this, the product should stand motionless for two days.
There is a two-component one used for different materials. The composition is useful for filling gaps, and the strength remains high quality. After the procedure, you can apply any film coatings and paint.
Preparing for work
In order for glue for chipboard furniture to have an excellent effect on the surface, you need to prepare everything necessary for the procedure. Parts must be clean. First you need to sand the surface, which will remove streaks of the old product.
Then you need to degrease the parts using a solvent. When the product is dry, glue for chipboard furniture is applied to it. It is advisable to decide in advance which one is better to choose. After drying, the furniture is ready for use.
What glue is suitable for wood?
If you prepare for the procedure and also choose the appropriate glue, the furniture will be repaired so that the gluing joints will not be visible. The following products are suitable:
- carpentry;
- synthetics;
- casein
Used in furniture repairs. But the product is quite susceptible to moisture. Even if you fasten the parts of a structure that will stand in the air, it will begin to collapse in frost. PVA also has the same disadvantages. The synthetic product is the most short-lived, since the surface is destroyed due to varnish.
European funds
Adhesives from foreign companies also deserve attention, since most of them are frost-resistant. Even if the structure is located in the air, you can work without problems. The composition is completely ready for use, and therefore there is no need to properly mix the components.
Such mixtures are moisture resistant, otherwise the moisture falling on the wood would not be able to dry properly. Mold gradually appears bad smell. European products are environmentally friendly, although they are not completely harmless. After drying, the parts are fastened securely.
Titebond glue
The product is produced by a popular American company. Titebond wood furniture glue holds structures together perfectly. The company is constantly working to improve technology, so the range is regularly expanded.
The company produces glue on the following bases:
- alymphatic;
- polymer;
- polyurethane;
- protein;
- made of synthetic rubber;
- water.
Glue is used to create plywood, floor coverings, furniture. The manufacturer checks products for compliance with quality, strength, and moisture resistance. The carpentry product is suitable for furniture repair due to its moisture resistance and frost resistance.
The product consists of a polyaliphatic emulsion, so it is viscous and chemically resistant. He is not afraid of temperature changes, as well as other unfavorable factors. The benefits include:
- excellent adhesion to the surface;
- no long pressing required;
- high density;
- not abrasive;
- solvent resistant;
- easily removed before drying.
Caring for wooden furniture
After gluing wooden furniture needs care more than ever. Simple rules must be used. Even if high-quality glue is used, furniture should not be placed in the cold or exposed to sun rays. Humidity and temperature changes also have a negative effect.
There is no need to install structures near a balcony or window. To protect the product from sunlight, it is necessary to treat the surface varnish coating, and then wax. To prevent insects from infesting the wood, every summer you need to wipe the lower parts of the structure with a cloth with turpentine.
Furniture must be placed on a flat floor, otherwise deformation will appear over time. Cleaning should be done with a polishing cloth with a mixture of wax and antistatic agents. It will help to update the product vegetable oil, for example, burdock. You will need a few drops and a cloth.
In order for furniture to serve reliably for many years, restoration must be carried out with suitable tools and means. After this, you just need to follow simple maintenance rules, and then the structural parts will be fastened together with high quality.
Why did I bring up the topic (chipboard)? The one who does DIY furniture, wants not only to produce a high-quality product, but also to make it inexpensive. And by gluing two parts into one, you can achieve required thickness details. At the same time, you can save on the cost of the stove.
Let me give you an example: there is a product that is mainly made of 16mm laminated chipboard, but several parts are 30mm thick. When ordering the cutting of such a product, we pay the cost of the entire slab, even if only a few parts are cut from it. In this case it is very uneconomical.
To save on the cost of material, you can make a part with a thickness of 30 mm from 16 mm laminated chipboard, gluing them together along the surface into double thickness. Please note that the part will be 32 mm, this must be taken into account. Although in some cases (if it is the lid of a chest of drawers or a cabinet), 2 mm does not play a special role.
FIRST METHOD
Task: get a 600x300 piece with a thickness of 32 or 36 mm, edged with a wide edge, by gluing two laminated chipboard details(16+16 or 18+18, etc. - the principle is the same).
To do this, you need to include two identical parts (!) in the cutting of 16mm chipboard. 620x320(i.e. increase the part from the required size by 10 cm around the perimeter).
If the thickened panel will be visible from both sides, we connect plane to plane using dowels and contact glue. The glue is applied evenly with a spatula thin layer for both parts. This must be done quickly, because contact glue dries quickly. We clamp it with clamps or under a press for at least 12 hours (I usually glue it today - tomorrow I’ll work on the part further).
If the thickened panel will only be visible from one side, you can, after gluing the parts (without dowels), fasten them with 4x30 screws along the edges and in the center. In this case, clamps or a press are not needed.
After gluing, “fit” the part into size 600x300, i.e., trim the edges around the perimeter. Do not forget to take into account the thickness of the edge in the dimensions of the part. The part must be cut on a machine, maintaining a clean cut and an angle of 90 degrees. Now you can trim it. Ready.
SECOND METHOD. Easier than the first one.
Task: get a 600x300 part with a thickness of 32 or 36 mm by gluing two edged chipboard parts (16+16 or 18+18, etc. - the principle is the same).
To do this, it is necessary to include two identical parts in the cutting of 16mm chipboard 600x300(!). Close them up.
Glue as in the previous method. Just need to align the edges more carefully! But the result is a little different - the part comes out thicker, but “double”.
Both methods of gluing chipboard are used in the project.
THIRD METHOD.
Task: obtain a 600x300 part with a thickness of 32 or 36 mm, using chipboard embedded parts of the appropriate thickness.
We include one part in the cutting 620x320(!) and mortgages - in this case 620x60- 2 pieces and 200x60- 2-3 pieces. The principle is to make mortgages around the perimeter and above the pillars, onto which the finished part will be attached.
We glue the part and the embeds with contact glue and duplicate them with 4x30 screws. After complete drying, we “drive” it into size 600x300. And we edge the end.
In the case of a table top, mortgages are made around the perimeter and in the places where the legs will be attached, plus - down side closed with 3mm fiberboard. We also glue fiberboard using contact adhesive and under a press. After complete drying, we “drive” it into the required size and edge the end. The result is a part with a thickness of 35 mm. Lightweight table top.
That's all I wanted to tell you. If you know other methods of gluing laminated chipboard, please share in the comments.