Country table made of timber. How to make a country table

How to do country table

Arranging a summer house is a constant process. Either you build something or improve it. Moreover, furniture is constantly needed and tables are most in demand in the country. And put it in the garden, and near the house, and also in the gazebo. We will tell you how to make a table for a summer house with your own hands in this article using the example of ready-made projects.

Homemade table from pallet boards

The material for this table was disassembled pallets. Naturally, you can use new boards. There is only one condition - they must be dry. You can buy dry ones (this costs more) or buy regular ones, put them somewhere in ventilated stacks and keep them for at least 4 months, or better yet, six months. In general, any furniture, including garden benches. made from dry wood.

We are assembling a table for the street - to put it in a gazebo, so we will not glue the boards of the tabletop, but will fasten them from below, using planks. This is a very simple country table and very cheap.

Having disassembled the pallets, we get boards with individual colors and patterns. Having worked a little magic, rearranging them several dozen times in different ways, we achieve the required result. It turns out to be quite a nice tabletop.

We assemble a tabletop from boards

Take the side parts of the pallet. We use them for the table frame. We first sand them with coarse sandpaper, then fine sand them to the required smoothness (grain 120 and 220).

The side slats will go to the sides of the table

We take the planks that remained unused and use them to fasten the tabletop. We place them in the place where the joints of the boards are located. We use two screws to fasten each board with a joint, and one for a solid one.

From the treated sidewalls and two boards (also sanded) we assemble the table frame. We fasten its parts with self-tapping screws at the end (two for each joint). The frame can be glued or also “planted” on self-tapping screws. Only they are long. For each, we pre-drill holes with a drill whose diameter is slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws.

The tabletop is almost ready

We turn the assembled tabletop over and sand it. The order is the same - first sandpaper with large grains, then with small grains.

Next is installing the legs. Selecting four boards same size, check their length and adjust if necessary. Then - sanding again. This is easier than sanding the legs that are already screwed on. We screw the sanded boards to the frame. These will be the legs. For each there are two self-tapping screws, fixed diagonally (look at the photo). For greater stability, we install jumpers at the bottom. You can leave about 10 cm from the floor to the lintels. We connect everything with self-tapping screws, so that the boards do not crack, we pre-drill holes.

The DIY garden table is almost ready. All that remains is to coat it with varnish

After removing the dust, varnish again. In theory, the varnish should lie flat, but it depends on the wood, so another sanding/painting cycle may be needed. As a result, we get this homemade country table.

DIY garden table ready for use

If you don’t like mismatched boards and traces of old nails, you can make the same design into boards. This table can be rectangular, or square. All sizes are arbitrary - please see the space available.

Country table made from leftover boards

This DIY garden table is assembled from the remains of boards of different types and sizes. Pine boards 25 mm thick and 50 mm wide were used for the tabletop frame, and 15*50 mm leftovers for the legs. We make the frame according to the dimensions you need. This table will stand on the veranda, which is small in width. So let's make it narrow - 60 cm, and length 140 cm. The height of the legs is 80 cm (everyone in the family is tall).

Assembling the frame, attaching the legs to it

Immediately cut two long boards of 140 cm each. To make the tabletop width 60 cm, subtract twice the thickness of the board used - this is 5 cm. Short bars should be 60 cm - 5 cm = 55 cm. Fold the frame, following right angles, twist with self-tapping screws. We check whether the bars are folded correctly - we measure the diagonals, they should be the same.

We cut the boards into four 80 cm boards and attach them from the inside to the assembled frame. You can use 4 screws for each leg.

Making jumpers for the shelf

At approximately the middle of the height of the legs we attach the crossbars. This is a frame for a shelf. The shelf can be used for its intended purpose, and it also increases the rigidity of the structure. We fasten strictly at right angles, checking with a large square.

We put the frame on the floor and check whether it wobbles or not. If everything is done correctly, it should stand rigidly. Next, take sandpaper or a sander and sand.

Let's start assembling the tabletop. What remained from the finishing work were boards of different types of wood, some painted with stain. We alternate boards of different colors.

We fasten the tabletop boards with finishing nails, carefully finishing them off with a hammer. You can secure it to the shelf with regular nails or self-tapping screws. Then we smooth it out with a sander. Final stage- painting. Very unlucky with the choice of varnish. We bought it too dark and didn’t like the look. I'll have to sand it again and paint it a different color.

Homemade table for the cottage is ready

Wooden table with glued top

This design is different L-shaped legs. They are assembled from boards of the same thickness. IN in this case 20 mm. In order for them to hold well, 5 self-tapping screws are needed. We pre-drill holes with a drill with a diameter 1-2 mm smaller than the diameter of the screws. Then, using a drill of a larger diameter, we drill recesses for the caps. The diameter can be matched to furniture plugs of a suitable color or made from a wooden rod. Another option is to use wood putty, to which you add wood dust that remains after sanding. After drying and sanding, the marks will be difficult to find.

Legs with markings for fasteners

When assembling the legs, you must ensure that the angle is exactly 90°. You can choose timber as a pattern. First, coat the joint of the two parts of the leg with wood glue, then install the screws in the following sequence: first the two outer ones, then the middle one, and only then the other two. After the glue has dried, we sand the legs, varnish them and dry them.

Table legs are ready

It's time to make the tabletop. We assemble it from boards of the same thickness. We select the size as needed. You can use fragments different widths. It is only important that everything looks organic, and that the sides of the boards are smooth and fit together without gaps.

We coat the sides of the boards selected for the tabletop with glue, lay them on a flat surface (some kind of table) and tighten them with clamps. In this case, we got by with one, but preferably at least three. We tighten it so that there are no gaps in the resulting shield. Leave it for a day. Having removed the clamps, we get an almost finished tabletop. It still needs to be trimmed - align the edges, and then sand it. You can trim with a jigsaw or a regular handsaw. Using an angle grinder it is difficult to obtain straight line, but you can try. After sanding we get a beautiful tabletop.

Gluing a tabletop from boards

Using the same technique you can make an oval or round table top. You just need to draw the appropriate line and trim the glued boards along it.

To make the table look more attractive, we will make a frame. We take a thin strip, sand it with sandpaper and fasten it around the perimeter of the tabletop. You can also use finishing nails. Only we also first coat the planks with wood glue, and then with nails.

We fasten the bar around the perimeter

After the glue has dried, we sand the joint again with sandpaper.

This is what the finished tabletop looks like

Now you can attach the table legs. We assemble a table frame from four boards (there is no photo, but you can do it as in the previous paragraph). We attach it to the back of the tabletop with glue, then install it through the tabletop furniture confirmations. A preliminary hole with an extension for the cap is drilled for the confirmations. The holes for fasteners are masked in the same way as on the legs.

We attach the legs to the fixed frame. We place them inside the frame. You can attach it with regular self-tapping screws. That's it, we made a table for the garden with our own hands.

The board table is ready

How to make a garden table from wood with benches

For this table we used 38*89 mm boards (we unraveled them ourselves), but you can take standard sizes. A difference of millimeters will not greatly affect the results. In the photo below you can see what should happen.

To connect the parts, 16 cm long studs with washers and nuts (24 pieces) were used. All other connections are made with nails 80 mm long.

We connect the table parts together with studs, washers and nuts.

The parts are installed in place, a through hole is drilled with a drill. A stud is installed in it, washers are put on both sides and the nuts are tightened. Everything is catching up wrench. Why is this option convenient? For the winter you can disassemble it and take it to a barn or garage.

Making seats

Drawing of a bench with dimensions

According to the drawing, we cut the boards to the required size. Everything is needed in double quantity - for two seats. We sand the boards, Special attention pay attention to the ends.

The short sections that we use to fasten the three boards of the seat along the edges are cut at an angle of 45°. First, we assemble the structure that is attached to the seat from below. We take a board about 160 cm long, and attach two short boards sawn at an angle to the end of it. You need to attach it so that this board is in the middle.

Bottom seat support assembly

Then we attach the legs to the resulting structure (you can use nails). Then we add more boards cut at an angle and tighten everything with studs and bolts.

We attach the seat boards to the resulting structure. Since this is an outdoor table, there is no need to knock them together closely. Leave a gap between two adjacent ones of at least 5 mm. We nail it to the supports (which have been sawn down), two for each board.

Fastening the seats together

We fasten the finished seats using four boards 160 cm long. We fasten each leg with hairpins (if you walk, you can put two hairpins, installing them diagonally or one above the other).

We connect the legs to the boards using pins

Assembling the table

The table is assembled according to a different principle. Please note that for the tabletop, the transverse boards along the edges are cut at 52°. We attach them at such a distance that the legs fit in. 2 nails for each board. You can use finishing ones, with small heads, or you can drive them deep and then mask the holes with putty.

How to do outdoor table made of wood

Now we need to assemble the cross legs. We take two boards, cross them so that the distance between their ends is 64.5 cm. We outline the intersection with a pencil. At this point you will need to remove the wood to half the thickness of the board.

This will have to be cut out

We make the same notch on the second board. If you fold them, they turn out to be in the same plane. We connect with four nails.

How to do X-shaped legs for garden table

We make the second table leg in the same way. We are not assembling the table yet.

Installing the table

Now you need to attach the legs to the structure on which the benches are installed. We place them at an equal distance from the benches and fasten them with pins.

Table leg fastening unit

Now we install the tabletop. We also fasten it with pins. The last stage is painting. Here everyone does as he pleases.

Outdoor table for a summer residence with benches

Variations on a theme

According to this drawing, you can make separate benches and a table for a summer house or garden. The design is reliable and simple to implement.

Separate benches and a table for the garden according to the same drawing

You can make the appearance more decorative by slightly changing the design of the seats and tabletops

Another option with separate benches

Painted white

DIY garden table: drawings

Stable country table

Simple table with X-shaped legs

Garden table made of wood

Homemade wooden table with a crossbar at the bottom

http://stroychik.ru

You should start working, of course, after a specific model of a given item has been selected. If there are no carpentry skills as such, then there is no point in aiming for a whole work of art. But even the simplest option in terms of production can look quite decent and even more beautiful because it will be made on its own.

A list of required tools or how to make a wooden table with your own hands using what is in every pantry

Having examined and gone through many drawings of wooden tables with your own hands, you can come to the conclusion that you will need the entire set of carpentry tools. Indeed, for comfortable and fast work you will need to acquire the following:

1. Jigsaw.
2. .
3. Sander.
4. Screwdriver.
5. A set of drills of various diameters.
6. Brushes.
7. Sandpaper with zero grit setting.
8. Materials for processing (stains, varnishes or paints).
9. Materials for eliminating defects (wood putty and similar).
10. Carpenter's vice and glue.

The list is quite large and you can think about whether it’s easier to buy a ready-made piece of furniture than to rack your brains over how to make a wooden table with your own hands with a minimum of available tools. But there are no hopeless situations, so let’s get creative and find new ways to achieve the goal.

• The jigsaw is replaced with a regular saw (though there will be an order of magnitude more work to eliminate unevenness).
• There is no need for a router if the tabletop is made from a single sheet rather than individual segments.
• For the same reason, you can remove wood glue along with a vice from the list.
• You can cross out the grinder, but it’s worth clarifying that it’s almost impossible to manually polish the surface to the required state. Therefore, we choose more a budget option- a grinding attachment for a screwdriver.
• It is unlikely that you will be able to do without a screwdriver, but this tool is available in almost every home.

Other parts and materials, even if they are not in the house, are not so expensive to purchase.

Assembling a table made of wood with your own hands according to the drawings of a simple and waste-free design

To assemble a table with your own hands from wood according to this drawing, you do not need to be a trained specialist. The design is simple and understandable, the main thing is to do everything carefully and slowly. This option is also attractive because it can be made in two types: both a coffee table and a dining table. The only condition is that when making the latter you will need support stands (they can be easily purchased at a hardware store).

Wooden table drawing of a wooden table diagram No. 1

So, the instructions on how to make a wooden table with your own hands are as follows (see diagram No. 1):

1. The canvas is prepared (sanding, stripping, treatment with antiseptics, sealing microcracks, etc.).

2. Transfer the separation lines from the drawing to the canvas.

3. If you move from the left edge of a horizontally laid sheet to the right, then the markup will look like this:

40 mm – line (this cut will serve as a support bar).
250 mm – curved line (this cut will act as legs, in the case of coffee table, and if the dining option is chosen - as a support stand for high legs).
900 mm – curved line (the largest segment, of course, will be used as a tabletop in the future).
250 mm is the last straight line (divides the remainder into the leg and the support bar).

4. The elements that will be supporting (legs and slats) must be shortened by 30 mm on the sides. This is done so that their edges are not visible from under the tabletop.

5. Having placed the leg with an arc downwards, we see that it rests on sharp edges. In this case, we will not get the stability of the product. Therefore, we measure 30 mm from the top of the corner and make a horizontal cut on both sides.

6. Attach the bar to the top of the legs with self-tapping screws. The step between them is 150 mm.

7. We retreat 250 mm from the edge of the tabletop and place the legs in this place. Self-tapping screws (4 pcs) will be screwed into the tabletop through the plank, so make sure that they do not get into the cross fasteners.

Our article on how to make one for your dacha with your own hands will be useful.

The fully assembled product is painted or varnished. To obtain high-quality mirror image smooth surface not enough sanding pure wood. After coating with the same varnish, one way or another, small fibers will “stand on end.” Therefore, after each applied layer it is necessary to sand the surface with fine sandpaper. And the applied layers must be at least three. The end result is a beautiful piece of furniture without breaking the bank.

The table is an essential attribute kitchen interior. At the same time, it must not only combine style, beauty and comfort, but also be quite reliable. And what could be more reliable and durable than natural wood? The problem is that the quality wooden furniture It’s not cheap, so not everyone can buy it for their kitchen. However, do not despair, because making a wooden table with your own hands is a completely doable task for a person who is able to distinguish a screw from a nail and knows how to use a drill, jigsaw and sanding machine.

The choice of kitchen table design depends on several factors, such as the size of the kitchen, the number of occupants and interior design. If you look at the options offered by furniture manufacturers, among the variety of designs we can distinguish three categories:

• medium sized tables for 4-6 people;
• dimensional tables for big family or receiving guests;
• practical folding tables for small kitchens.

A table in the kitchen should combine three qualities: aesthetics, convenience and practicality.

To do kitchen table with your own hands, you need to have a drawing of the product at hand, necessary set tools and at least some woodworking skills. Below are design options for standard, large and small kitchens with photo instructions and a detailed description of each stage of making a wooden table.

Rectangular dining table on balusters

Rectangular design with standard size 1200x600mm is considered the most popular due to its practicality. This table can comfortably accommodate a family of 4 people. In addition, it can be installed either in the center of the kitchen (if space allows) or placed close to the wall in order to save free space.

Schematic drawing

In order to make the wooden table more attractive, we will use balusters instead of straight legs. If you don't have it at hand lathe, then such legs can be ordered separately at the nearest furniture workshop.

For your information! Balusters are shaped pillars that are primarily found on the railings of stairs, balconies and roofs. However, the use of these elements in the manufacture of kitchen tables is also far from uncommon.

Drawing rectangular table on balusters

To assemble the product you will need the following materials and tools:

• 4 ready-made baluster legs 720 mm high;
• furniture board 30 mm thick for table top;
• board 20x100mm for the frame;
• wood screws about 30 mm long;
• drill (screwdriver);
• a circular saw;
• sander;
• sandpaper of different grain sizes;
• building level;
• square;
• roulette;
• wood glue

Step-by-step assembly instructions

A kitchen table made of wood on balusters is made with your own hands in the following sequence:

1. We prepare the cross members of the frame. To do this, we cut a 100 mm board into 4 parts (2 x 400 mm, 2 x 1000 mm), after which we remove the burrs and bring the surface to a smooth state using sandpaper or a sanding machine.

1. We take the balusters and connect them in pairs with short crossbars (400 mm), making a small indent from the edge of the leg (about 15 mm). Fastening is carried out using glue and screws, which are twisted at an angle with inside boards.

Advice! To prevent cracks from appearing, it is better to pre-make holes for the screws.

Attaching short crossbars to legs

1. We connect the finished pairs of legs with long crossbars (1000 mm). The fastening algorithm is the same as in the previous stage.

The final stage of installing the table frame

1. After we have made the frame of the wooden table with our own hands, we move on to the tabletop. If it comes to the kitchen, then it is better to purchase a ready-made furniture panel. Although for a gazebo or cottage, where the requirements for appearance the countertops are not so rigid; it can be assembled from tongue-and-groove boards.

Furniture panel for table top

1. The finished tabletop must be connected to the frame. To do this, we lay it front side on a flat and clean surface, and evenly place the base with legs on top. The crossbars are fastened to the tabletop using screws according to the same principle as described in paragraph 2. However, in this case you need to be extremely careful not to drill through the countertop.

1. At this point, making a kitchen table with your own hands can be considered almost complete. The last stage is characterized by the process of polishing the surface, as well as applying stain or varnish, the color of which is selected to match the interior of the kitchen.

Note! The number of layers of varnish depends on the type of wood. Hardwoods, such as oak or hornbeam, do not absorb varnish very well, so in this case 1-2 layers are sufficient. But for pine or spruce you will need at least 3 layers of coating.

Wooden dining table with balusters

Wooden table for a large family

A large table, at which you can dine with a large family or arrange a feast by inviting friends, must have reliable design. The usual four legs are usually not enough to support a heavy tabletop. Therefore, additional measures have to be taken to strengthen the frame.

Product design

IN in this example Let's look at how to make a large wooden table for the kitchen with your own hands, measuring 2337x978 mm (of course, minor deviations in one direction or another are allowed).

Drawing large table made of wood

Before starting work, you should prepare lumber for:

• supporting frame (38x90 mm);
• countertops (38x140 mm);
• support strips (19x64 mm).

You will also need the following tools:

• a circular saw;
• jigsaw;
• drill;
• screws (4x65 mm);
• drills (3 mm);
• furniture glue;
• pencil, tape measure, sandpaper.

Manufacturing stages

To make the table reliable and have an attractive appearance, you need to approach each stage responsibly. So let's get started:

1. Using purchased lumber, we make parts for the future wooden table with our own hands:

• 2 upper cross beams (38x90x978 mm);
• 4 legs (38x90x695 mm);
• 2 bowstrings (38x90x921 mm);
• 1 longitudinal lower beam (38x90x1575 mm);
• 1 longitudinal upper beam (38x90x1473 mm);
• 2 braces (38x90x772 mm);
• 7 blanks for the tabletop (38x90x2337);
• 6 support strips (19x64x432 mm).

We carefully grind all parts, achieving an absolutely smooth surface without burrs.

Important! Sanding quality wooden surface depends on the correct grit size of the sandpaper. For primary grinding, the grain size should not be larger than 200 microns. Final processing is carried out with finer-grained sandpaper - 80-100 microns for soft wood and 50-63 microns for hard wood.

1. We fasten the legs together in pairs using transverse beams (above) and bowstrings (below). We use two screws for each connection.

1. Using a longitudinal lower beam, we connect two strings together.

Attaching the lower cross beam

1. We strengthen the structure using the upper transverse beam.

Advice! In order for the beam to reliably connect the two halves, in addition to screws, additional wooden dowels with a diameter of 10 mm should be used.

1. We cut the ends of the blanks for the braces at an angle of 45 degrees. After this, we attach both braces to the upper and lower transverse beams.

Attaching the upper cross beam

1. We connect the wooden boards intended for the tabletop to the transverse beams on the inside of the structure.

1. Additionally, we strengthen the tabletop with support strips. Make sure that they do not extend beyond the dimensions of the table.

Strengthening the structure with supporting strips

1. If desired, you can make semicircular corners in your wooden kitchen table, which will give the product a more elegant look.

This option is suitable for both a large kitchen or dining room, and for a summer house.

Folding wooden table for a small kitchen

If there is not enough space in the kitchen to place a large or medium-sized table, then you should look for a more original approach. One such solution is a folding table, which is attached to the wall and can be easily removed, freeing up occupied space.

Materials and tools

To make a folding wooden table for the kitchen with your own hands, you will need the following:

• furniture board 30 mm thick;
• wooden beam 20x60 mm;
• loops (6 pcs.);
• corner lamella (2 pcs.);
• wooden dowels;
• dowels;
• screws;
• drill;
• jigsaw;
• sanding machine or sandpaper;
• glue;

Assembly: step by step

Advice! Before you begin, decide on the location where the table will be installed. Since the structure is attached to the wall, it is very important to take into account all the features of the future kitchen interior, so that you do not have to rearrange it later, leaving unsightly dowel holes in a visible place.

Steps to assemble a kitchen table with your own hands:

1. We prepare the parts for the folding legs. To do this, we cut the wooden beam into 8 parts: 4 720 mm long, 4 320 mm long. We sand each element, removing burrs.

1. We collect two rectangular frames. The slats are connected to each other using furniture dowels, for which it is first necessary to drill blind holes with a diameter of 8 mm.

1. We connect the finished frames with hinges. In addition, it is also necessary to attach a narrow strip to one frame using hinges, which will be attached to the wall.

1. We fix the frame to the wall using dowels, after which we install corner slats on the sides. It is important to arrange the slats in such a way that they do not interfere with the folding of the legs.

Advice! Instead of corner slats, you can use any furniture corners of the appropriate size, matched to the color of the table.

Fastening the structure to the wall

1. From wooden shield cut out a tabletop measuring 900x600 mm. For a more impressive look, the corners can be rounded. After this, all ends should be sanded using a machine.

1. We “separate” a piece 250 mm long from the tabletop, which will be attached to wall structure. The two parts are connected to each other by means of hinges.

1. We install the 250 mm part on the corner slats and connect the elements with screws.

The final stage of installing a folding table in the kitchen with your own hands

1. You can refine the table at your discretion by applying stain, varnish or paint. But even in its original form, such a product looks very good.

Wooden folding table - an original solution for a small kitchen

On the Internet you can find a lot of options on how to make a wooden table with your own hands. We looked at three of the most simple solutions for standard, large and small-sized kitchens, the production of which is quite economical and does not require specialized machines and extensive experience in working with wood. For making more complex structures We recommend that you seek help from specialists.

Finally, watch this video that shows how you can make a pretty decent kitchen table out of old wood planks.

Video: DIY wooden table

Do garden table IR you can do it yourself using scrap materials, which to many will seem absolutely useless. We offer you unusual ideas for the dacha, which relate to the creation of various garden furniture and tables, among others. Look at the photos of garden tables and choose the best option for yourself. When implementing any idea for a summer house, you can use your imagination and make the changes you need.

How to make a garden wooden table with your own hands: photo

A wooden garden table represents the aesthetics of the natural landscape of the dacha and the ease of manufacture. Photos and photos will help you make a garden table with your own hands. detailed instructions. Before you start making a garden table with your own hands, prepare everything necessary materials and tools. Be sure to look at the photo on how to make a garden table with your own hands: they show the production process.

It's very stylish and original table, which can be used both in the garden and in the country interior. The costs are minimal, because it is based on a pallet of bricks.

You will need:

• brick pallet;
• swivel wheels with a diameter of approximately 10-12 cm;
• antiseptic stain for wood of the color you need;
• sandpaper;
• screwdriver;
• ordinary screws;
• screws for metal tiles;
• brushes

The procedure for making furniture and detailed instructions on how to make a garden table with your own hands.

Sand the tray well: first with coarse-grained sandpaper, then with fine-grained sandpaper. You can also use a grinder with a grinding wheel.

Attach swivel wheels to the bottom of the pallet. To do this, use ordinary screws, onto which put washers removed from the screws for metal tiles (since there are large holes on the bases of the wheels). You can directly fasten the wheels with screws for metal tiles, but then you will need a special attachment for a screwdriver.

Cover the table with an antiseptic wood stain, preferably containing wax. In this case, the table can be tinted to resemble walnut, rosewood, oak, pine, larch, or use a transparent antiseptic to only highlight the structure of the wood without changing its color.

Please note: not all pallets are the same! They come in different sizes and with different spacing between slats. Choose a pallet that suits you best.

Round garden tables made of wood and their photos

If you have an old round garden table, don't rush to throw it away! Of course, it has absolutely no appearance and is broken, but it is a real find for your garden. In its new guise it will decorate not only a relaxation corner in the garden, but also a country house.

Garden tables made of wood will go with many styles, as their decor is universal.

Look at the photo of garden tables with similar design options:

You will need:

• old wooden table;
• wood putty;
• old tiles of various colors or broken tiles;
• white facade paint;
• tile adhesive;
• white grout for joints;
• priming;
• copper and gold contours for glass;
• putty knife;
• sponge.

Manufacturing procedure

Fill cracks and gouges and sand the table with fine-grit sandpaper, then prime everything except the tabletop. Paint the table with white paint (except the table top).

Wrap up tiles in a piece of drape or other dense soft fabric and break it with a hammer. Apply an even layer of tile adhesive on top of the tabletop and cover the surface of the tabletop with tile fragments. Trim the edges with a trowel. When your mosaic has dried a little, wipe the surface with a sponge soaked in water to remove any traces of glue from the surface.

After the glue has completely dried, treat the seams between the pieces of tile with white grout.

Paint the sides of the table top with white paint, and then decorate them, as well as the legs of the table, with gold and copper glass outlines.

Plastic garden table

Typically, garden furniture is made of plastic, wood, rattan, presented in soft natural colors.

However, if a bright multi-colored “character” appears in the garden, especially one made of colored glass, then all attention is immediately drawn to it.

And it is made from an old broken flower stand, a lid from a metal barrel and ordinary round glass.

However, all these elements can be replaced with scraps of colored plastic.

So, let's look in more detail at how to make a plastic one. dining table with your own hands.

You will need:

• metal part from a flower stand;
• lid from a metal garden barrel;
• round glass with a diameter of 50-60 cm;
• a piece of rubber seal for windows;
• paper;
• pencil;
• copper circuit for glass;
• copper acrylic paint;
• white paint for rust;
• acrylic primer;
• means for obtaining patina;
• paints for glass painting.

Manufacturing procedure

On a piece of paper, draw a circular pattern in the Moroccan style. Then enlarge the pattern to the desired size using a photocopier. Place the pattern under the glass and outline it with a copper outline. Dry the circuit thoroughly for the time recommended by the manufacturer (usually 8 to 24 hours).

Paint the interior parts of the ornament with bright stained glass paints. It's important that the colors you use are distributed evenly within the outlined area, so before you paint your tabletop, practice on a small piece of glass, identifying required quantity paints for fragments. Dry the finished painting well.

If desired, add additional ones to the finished painting. decorative elements copper circuit.

Paint the barrel lid with white rust paint. Now let's move on to the main part of the tabletop.

Prime the stand piece and paint it copper acrylic paint, then apply a patina product in some areas.

When the “foot” of the table is dry, glue small pieces of window seal onto the parts that will be in contact with the table top. This will allow her to hold on well.

Assemble the table: place the painted glass on the lid of the barrel, and place this “tabletop” on the foot.

DIY ideas for a garden and cottage using scrap materials: photos and descriptions

Further on this page you can see ideas for a summer house made from scrap materials and photos of the process of their implementation in practice. We are in mandatory We accompany all ideas for a garden and summer house with your own hands with photos from different angles so that you can clearly see the whole creative process.

Folding garden table

Try making a folding garden table for your utility room universal purpose. It looks beautiful and saves space. And most importantly, it is very convenient and will help you maintain a small utility unit in perfect order: everything is in sight and nothing gets lost.

You will need:

• a piece of edged pine board measuring approximately 60 X 20 cm;
• two ready-made wooden fastenings for shelf;
• light yellow façade paint;
• red acrylic paint;
• small glass jars with screw caps;
• screws;
• screwdriver or screwdriver.

Manufacturing procedure

Sand the board and paint it light yellow.

Decorate the ends of the board with a simple ornament using red paint.

Paint the lids of the jars with red paint.

Attach the jar lids to the board at regular intervals using small screws.

Hang the finished shelf on the wall of a utility room or workshop using ready-made fasteners (the covers should be on the underside of the shelf).

Fill the jars with screws, nails, small fasteners, staples, nuts and other small household items and screw the jars to the lids.

You can decorate jars with simple painting, applique and any other methods.

Interesting ideas for your dacha, home, garden and vegetable garden with your own hands with photos

And now we offer interesting ideas for a dacha and garden with your own hands in relation to other interior items necessary for the household.

This will be a comfortable seat on which you can relax after gardening. All our interesting ideas for a summer house and garden are accompanied by photos and can be implemented using various available materials.

Do garden ottoman from old car tires. There are practically no costs, and the effect will exceed all expectations. This ottoman is not a simple one, but an ottoman-chest. You can store garden items in it. This will definitely not happen to anyone!

You will need:

• two old car tires one diameter;
• thick plywood;
• beautiful textiles of your choice;
• façade paint that matches your fabric in color;
• white spray facade paint;
• “liquid nails” or silicone sealant;
• construction stapler;
• jigsaw

Manufacturing procedure

Cover both tires with white spray paint, dry. Then paint both tires with light green paint, in a thicker layer, and dry.

Lay the tires one on top of the other, fastening them with liquid nails or silicone sealant. To do this, apply “dotted” small portions of any of the products in a circle on the surface of the lower tire.

Cut a circle out of plywood with a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the tire. Cover it with fabric and secure the fabric with a stapler.

Put covered with fabric circle on a base of tires. There you go! The seat is removable, so the inside of the ottoman can be used as a place to store small items.

The paint color of the tires and the color of the seat can be anything, depending on the style of your garden and the color of other garden furniture. In any case, the ottoman will look impressive

Garden furniture: tables and benches

Garden tables and benches are indispensable attributes of a cozy and comfortable country life, in which it is possible to enjoy privacy in a shady corner of the garden.

How to do it garden furniture tables, you could already fully recognize their examples published above. And now we propose to make an exclusive design of a garden bench with your own hands.

A garden bench is not just a necessary thing, but a very necessary one.

It’s so convenient to care for plantings and weed, not on your knees, but sitting on a bench, especially one as beautiful as this one. Even if it stands just like that, it is already a garden decoration, no worse than any figurine.

Add green paint to the pictures: add branches and leaves.

Add accents with gold paint: make painterly strokes on the drawings, emphasizing the lines and details.

When the bench is dry, cover it all, along with the glued pictures, with a clear or slightly tinted wood preservative.

If desired, the bench can be slightly tinted with blue-gray acrylic paint, creating the effect of old wood.

The one that is most memorable is the poorly designed dining table. One that is too low or too high, one that does not have enough legroom underneath, one that has too little space. To help you design a table that will be remembered only for its attractive appearance, we will provide basic standards here.

TABLE HEIGHT. Distance from the floor to the top surface of the cover. Usually it is 68–76 cm.

SPACE ABOVE LEGS. The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the drawer is the vertical space for the legs. Minimum distance– 60 cm.

KNEEL ROOM. The distance from the edge of the table to the leg is the space for your knees when the chair is pulled up to the table. The minimum distance is from 36 to 40 cm, the optimal distance is 36–46 cm.

SPACE ABOVE HIPS. The distance from the seat to the lower edge of the drawer is the vertical space for the hips when a person sits on this chair, pushed towards the table. Minimum – 15 cm.

ELBOW ROOM. Side space on the table for each person sitting. The minimum is 60 cm, but 75 cm is much better.

HAND DEPTH. Front space on the table for each person seated. Less than 30 cm will not be enough, and more than 45 cm will be too much.

SPACE FOR A CHAIR. The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the wall is sufficient to move the chair away when getting up from the table. Architects claim that a minimum of 90 cm is needed, and 110 cm would be the best option.

Table with king belt

When you hear the word "table", don't you think of a flat panel with four legs? Don't you think of just such a table as the one pictured here? Yes, this design is the most original of the original ones. In the simplest version, the table - a typical design - consists of only three types of parts: legs, drawers and a lid (table top). The legs and tsar belt form a strong, yet open, support structure. In a structural sense, many tables are tsar tables, although we rarely call them that. Much more often they are called by functional purpose or their location: dining table, kitchen table, bedside table, desk. As you look further through the book, you will come across the original designs of different tables, and many of them will return to this “basic” table. This type of table can usually be found in the kitchen or dining room. Its massiveness creates the impression of strength. Although the legs are quite massive, the chiseled profile visually reduces their massiveness. In addition, the reasonable dimensions of the legs make them ideal for strong carpentry joints. Despite the simplicity of the design of a table with a tsar belt, many variations are possible. The table can be round, square, oval, rectangular. Its legs can be square, turned, tapered or carved. Even the drawers can influence the appearance of the table.

Design options

For example, a round table with the same turned legs as the base table looks completely different. The square drawstring belt gives it this distinct look when round lid. Despite the elegant cabriole legs of the table in the Queen Anne style, the massive drawers make it a work desk. The cut-out drawers at the third table make a significant visual and practical difference, making the table appear lighter and taller and creating more hip room for the occupant.

Country style table

This table is called by different names - country style table, retro style table, bar table - and presented in different ways. Furniture researchers usually describe it as a simple, low, oblong table on a massive base with turned legs and legs. This characterizes it quite accurately: a table with a drawstring belt and legs. Legs, especially those as strong as in the picture, significantly increase the durability and rigidity of the structure. With intensive daily use, the legs can increase the service life of the table by years. The terms "country" and "bar" are definitely associated with the 17th-18th centuries, when such tables were widely used in hotels, taverns and bars in rural areas and towns. Surviving examples of such tables actually have massive legs - although they are heavily worn out by many feet. The table shown here is equipped with one middle leg instead of two longitudinal ones, to make it more comfortable to sit at the table. However, many early tables had pro-legs around the perimeter. The design is simple. The drawbars and legs are cut into the legs with spikes and reinforced with wedges, dowels, etc. The table cover is a wide panel “at the tip”.

Design options

The easiest way to change the design of a table is to change the legs. Our “original” table has round legs - turned - and the shape of the turning can be changed endlessly. Just remember that you will need a flat, rectangular surface for the frame-to-leg joints. On a country-style table, you can also change the legs - depending on the appearance,
and by their configuration, as shown in the figure below.

Table with drawer and drawer

The name “table with a tsar belt” refers not to the style, but to the design. This type of table is the base for kitchen tables, library tables, desks, etc. Even a workbench. A drawer or two increases the functionality of the table as the tools that go into using it can be stored in these drawers. In some cases it is enough small box, while others require the largest possible one. There are only a couple of ways to include such a box in the design. The simplest approach is to simply cut out a drawer opening in the drawer frame. For a relatively small box and a fairly massive drawer, it is quite suitable. If the opening turns out to be so large that it creates a danger of destruction of the board, then it is better to replace the drawer with box bars. The bars can be rotated 90° so that their width matches the thickness of the leg. Tenon joints provide rigidity. A design with two bars - supraglottic and subgular - is preferable, since the upper bar will prevent the legs from moving inward.

Design options

Installing a drawer in a round table is quite possible. But if the tsar belt has a square or rectangular shape, then you need to be prepared that access to the inside of the box will be limited. If the drawer belt is rounded, then the front panel of the drawer should be made in such a way (for example, a layered bent or block-glued structure) so that its shape matches the shape of the drawer.

An alternative to a table with a leg in each corner is a table with one central leg. Its tabletop is attached to a central post mounted on low legs that diverge to the sides. Here, drawers are not structurally required, but some single-support tables have them. At first glance, a table without legs and drawers gives unlimited legroom. However, while it does have plenty of knee and hip room, its "creepy" legs tend to get in the way of the sitter's feet. This is the price of stability: the projection of the tabletop should not exceed the support area by more than 15 cm. A little more and you risk knocking over the table by leaning on the edge. Strength is critical to this design B-pillar and its connection to the base or legs. The table shown here has an oval tabletop and - in accordance with the major and minor axis of the oval - two pairs of legs different lengths. The legs are connected to the racks that taper downwards, and the racks are connected to the tabletop brackets with double tenons into the lugs. These intermediate assemblies are in turn glued onto a square core lath to form a central support that flares upward.

The table on a support appeared in the 18th century as small table magazine type with a three-legged base. To make a dining table, carpenters combined two single-legged tables or placed an oblong tabletop on two three-legged supports. Modern models range from the simplest utilitarian to multi-rack. The structural advantage of multi-post supports is their increased resistance to tilting. Although the support area may be noticeably smaller than the projection of the table top, a large table with this type of support can be quite stable due to the mass of the support.

Put wide board on the trestles - and you get a table. This is the ancestor of the trestle table, which is perhaps the very first type of table. Since ancient times, its form has been significantly improved, but it remains an easy-to-make collapsible table. Its elementary form remains a panel or sheet of plywood on free-standing trestles. And when the trestles are no longer free-standing, that's when the assembly becomes a table, because they must be connected to each other, to the tabletop, or both. In the table shown here, each half of the trestle consists of a fairly wide stand, embedded at the bottom into the leg, and at the top into the tabletop bracket. The wider the goats, the better table resists swaying from side to side. There is a long, massive rod embedded in the racks. The tabletop is attached with screws to the trestles, and the structure becomes one whole. Although there is enough space for your feet under the tabletop, you should not forget about the footrest so that when sitting at the table you do not get bumps on your shins. Also, the ends of the tabletop should protrude beyond the trestle by 35–45 cm to provide sufficient space for those sitting there. Many trestle tables are designed to be collapsible. Common methods of fastening parts of a collapsible table are shown on the next page.

Design options

Thinking about the shape of the trestle posts and legs is the easiest way to change the appearance of this table. Several examples are shown here. The original sawhorses were similar to sawhorses, and the X-shape was quite popular in medieval Europe. Pennsylvania Germans and other Germanic settlers brought this form to America, and it is still often found around picnic tables. Today the most common is the H-shape. Shakers (sectarian shakers), who made many trestle tables, usually used graceful legs with “high rise”

The familiar dining table can be expanded with an additional cover board. Then an ordinary table for a family can be enlarged to receive guests. At first glance, it may not be noticeable that this standard table with a drawstring belt, cut into two parts and reconnected using special runners. The runners can be bought ready-made or made together with the table. Each table cover must be at least 60 cm - the optimal space for one seated person.

Design options

The design of an extendable table can vary, as usual, by changing the legs and drawers. The shape of the drawers and table top has virtually no effect on the overall design. If we are talking about a table with drawers, then with the sliding version they work as usual. As the extension range increases, it may be necessary to add an additional leg to support the middle section. And don’t forget about the importance of small details - for example, attaching drawers to the table top

Extendable table on one support

A table with a single support is a basic form of table that has some advantages over a table with a tsar belt. If you need a folding table, do not forget to consider this form. Such a table can easily have a sliding, folding, or hinged lid, which will expand it. The most common option is a sliding lid with an insert section. As shown on the next page, the lid is divided into two and its halves are connected by special sliding runners. Thus, these two lid panels can be pulled apart and an additional board inserted between them. What to do with the support is a key question for the master. For the table to be stable, the size of the lid and the support area must be close. In the example shown, the support is vertically divided into two parts, each of which is attached to a corresponding cover panel. When the lid is pulled apart, the support also separates.

Design options

The basic form has a support that separates when the table is extended. This is not the only option. If a relatively small expansion, say 30–40 cm, is acceptable, then the extendable table can be made on a non-dividing support. Another option is to make a table on two supports. A table with a support for each sliding half can expand by 90–120 cm.

When choosing one of the types folding tables one of the most interesting designs is a system with retractable sections. It is easy to make and use. There is nothing unusual about the basic structure of the table. The only difference from the usual underframe made of drawers and legs is the presence of slots in the end drawers. The difference lies on top of the drawer and legs. Instead of attaching the table top to the drawer belt, its side sections, attached to long tapered runners, are laid on the drawer leg assembly. The runners correspond to the slots in the drawers. The existing central board separating the side sections is secured with screws to the frames. The table cover is placed on top of the central board and side sections, but is not firmly secured. When unfolding the table, the side section simply slides out from under the lid. The skids have stops that prevent the section from being pulled out too far. When pulled out, the lid will tilt slightly at first, but when fully unfolded it will be flush with the side section. Since the pull-out sections are part of the design, you won’t have to search through closets and storage rooms for them when you need to lay out the table before guests arrive. You simply pull out a section or two – even if the table is already set.

Design options

The system with retractable sections is compatible with any type of table support, provided that drawers are available. Thus, a trestle table or a two-legged table (as in the figure on the right), equipped with drawers, can have pull-out sections to increase the number seats. However, the system is not well suited for countertops with shapes other than rectilinear. When folded, the side section is retracted under the lid and its edges remain (or should remain) visible. If the shape is different from the shape of the lid, then the table will probably look quite strange when folded. For example, a semicircular side section located under a square or rectangular lid will create a gap between the lid and the drawers.

Double-support table with extensions
sections

A table with a sliding folding lid (tabletop) is relatively rare. Despite its low prevalence, this is an excellent system. The table has one additional section - a duplicate of the “main” lid; this section is connected to the lid using hinges and, when folded, lies on the main section (lid). To unfold the table, the “double” tabletop is moved to its extreme position (up to half of the underframe), and then the additional section is folded back onto the underframe. The upper edges of the drawers should be covered with felt or felt to facilitate the sliding of the lid. Making a sliding mechanism is not difficult. Each runner has a ridge that fits into a groove in its guide. The disadvantage is that during high humidity ridges may jam in grooves. Basic option usually configured as a side table. When unfolded, the edges of the tabletop are quite far from the tabletop, which creates sufficient space for people to sit under the table. The Y-shape of the legs will provide sufficient space for the legs of those sitting at the ends of the table.

Design options

When folded, this table looks like a somewhat strange dining table. To limit the overhang of the tabletop over the underframe (ensuring stability), the size of the base part should be close to the size of the folded tabletop. Therefore, a folding tabletop should be used on a type of table that does not look strange with a small tabletop overhang. Good options for this use include a side table (as a base table), a sofa table (shown here) and other tables and tables special purpose. When folded, these tables can be placed close to the wall. Folding tops are commonly used in traditional card tables, but without a sliding mechanism. Nevertheless sliding mechanism will do here too.

A table with a folding board (or boards) is practically a “generic” name for all tables in which sections of the tabletop are connected to each other by hinges. It is a common species and has been present throughout American history. In any style of furniture, from William and Mary style to modern, you will find a table with a folding board. This table has folding boards as part of the design. When not in use, they can be lowered into a vertical position, saving space in the room. There are many ways to keep the folding sections in the raised position. The example shown here uses retractable holders - you lift the board and slide out the support brackets from underneath it (much like drawer). For some other support systems, see a table with swivel frame supports, a table with swivel legs, a book table, and several card tables. The main thing to think about for this type of table is the width of the folding boards, which can be optimally supported by retractable or swivel/hinge arms. Make the folding boards relatively narrow - say, no wider than 38 cm. For wider sections, see options with swivel frame supports or swivel legs. A long folding board, like the example shown here, will require more than one bracket. By the way, this example was produced in the 20th century interesting name, which applies to a relatively long, utilitarian table with hinged tops. This name, which can be translated as “suffering,” creates in the conscious mind a picture of a large table laid out,” laden with food for hungry seasonal agricultural workers during the harvest season. Regardless of what we call it now, the people who sat at such a table in 1840 or 1880 probably called it a clapper table or a folding table.

Design options

While a basic dining table is quite long and relatively narrow, with a rectangular top with sharp corners, a drop-board table can be of almost any size, proportion and shape. The table top (tabletop) may have folding boards of a round or slightly rounded shape. On a shortened or square base, you can install a round, square or oval tabletop. You can round the corners of the folding sections or make their outer edges curved.

Table-book – Russian name table with rotating frame supports, which are hinged to the drawer-leg-leg assembly. The support post is connected to the rotating post by an upper and lower crossbar. The entire support can be rotated so that the raised folding section (board) can be placed on it. The swivel support became the predecessor of the swivel leg. It contains many structural elements that reflect the state of carpentry in the 16th century when it appeared. But like any well-made frame, it is structurally rigid and makes an excellent support for a folding board. Although the first such tables usually had two frame supports (one for each folding board), there were often tables with one folding board and one swivel support, and it happened the other way around - there were several leviathans with 12 swivel supports. When folded, tables were usually very narrow and saved significant space. A large table with two swivel legs on each folding board can be made so that the legs swivel both towards each other and away from each other. If they turn towards each other, then when the folding boards are lowered, the supporting posts of the frames will be located next to the main legs, visually making them more massive. When rotated away from each other, the support posts will be positioned side by side, creating the appearance of a table with six legs. The first tables were usually made in the Baroque style, with a complex turned profile of the legs. However, the example shown is completely modern in style.

Design options

A significant advantage of the book-table is the ability to support very large additional sections. Reliable support under the folding board makes the table very stable even with one section raised. Thus, it is difficult to make a very narrow table with wide folding boards. When folded, the table takes up very little space. When unfolded, it has a huge tabletop

This table can justifiably be called a table with folding boards, but the swivel leg sets it apart from others of its kind. The swivel leg is a descendant of the frame swivel support (see page 158). If the swivel support is attached to the table frame, consisting of a drawer, legs and a leg, then the swivel leg is attached only to the drawer. The result is a lighter appearance. It is the size rather than the assembly of the swivel leg that characterizes this table. The tabletop diameter of only 107 cm will be quite comfortable for four. The swivel leg is used in card tables with small folding tabletops. During the Queen Anne period, a smaller version of the table shown here was called a "breakfast table" and was used both for actual breakfast and for games and tea parties. Larger tables will likely need additional swivel legs to provide better support for the tip boards. A hinge joint—essentially a wooden hinge—makes a swivel leg feasible. A fancier version than shown here makes the connection look like a metal loop.

Design options

The design of a rotating table leg with folding boards appeared in the first half of the 18th century. Although we chose a Queen Anne style table as our “base”, the swivel leg has been used in many different styles of tables. The profile of the leg will generally be an indicator of style. Chippendale style swing leg tables often have cabriole designs, but always with a claw-and-ball finish. Square shaped legs are also used in Chippendale tables. During the federal
Hepplewhite style tables had tapering legs, as shown here, and Sheraton style tables had turned, often embossed, legs.

The unfolded folding boards transform
rectangular table to square

The advantage of a table with a frame swivel support over a table with a swivel leg is the stability created by the additional legs. When the folding boards are raised, they are supported by additional legs. A table with swing legs also has this advantage over a table with swing legs, but also has one advantage over a table with frame swing legs. Like the swing leg table, this table has an additional leg for each folding board. But only a narrow crossbar connects the leg to the table. These crossbars are placed in a cage of two guides installed between the longitudinal drawers, and are pulled out through the cutouts in the drawers. The leg is attached to the crossbars. Raise the folding board, extend the leg and lower the board onto it. You have a leg under the folding board and still have four legs under the stationary table top. This structure can support very wide folding boards.

Design options

Here are two very different tables with retractable legs, each of which has excellent stability thanks to the additional leg (or legs) when unfolded. When the card table is folded and placed against the wall, the additional leg is not noticeable. By unfolding the gaming table and extending the additional leg, you will have support at each corner of the tabletop. Perfect. Retractable legs will also be a great addition for long table with folding boards. If you make two extendable legs for each board, the table will not lose stability when someone leans too hard on it.

The table-chair owes its appearance to medieval practicality. In the Middle Ages, dwellings were small and drafty. Any furniture was expensive, everything was done hand tools. And if a piece of furniture could perform more than one function, well, so much the better. The table-chair is clearly universal. With the lid down, it's a table. With the lid raised there is a seat. And as with most universal things, its functionality is far from perfect. With the development of the furniture industry, the table-chair became more advanced in design and elegant in appearance. The product shown here has legs and armrests attached to the sides of the seat with tenon-to-socket joints. The pronounced end of the shoe-shaped legs makes the chair more stable and the armrests more comfortable. The chair even has an under-seat drawer for more sophisticated storage than a box with a lid. The table top is attached with a dovetail mortise.

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