Do-it-yourself children's lift-up bed. How to Make a King Size Lift Bed

How to make a large double lift bed with your own hands. In continuing the improvement of the apartment, it was necessary to solve the problem of expanding the living space of the bedroom with an area of 11 m2. Except small area the room had one more drawback - the width was only 2 meters 45 cm. A double bed installed in the center of the room and two wardrobes along the walls significantly reduced the living space, and the small width of the room made it difficult to get to balcony door when walking around the bed. Several rearrangements of furniture did not lead to an improvement in the situation in the room - another solution was required. Trips to furniture stores and furniture-making showrooms offered alternatives. It was decided to install a built-in lift-up bed. But there were problems here too, it was not possible to find ready-made solutions a double lift-up bed with a mattress size of 160 cm by 200 cm, and the furniture manufacturing solutions offered in the workshops did not suit me with the width of the bed when raised and the height of the bed when lowered. All the bed designs considered were based on chipboards, and this did not satisfy me, both for environmental reasons and for the reliability of long-term operation. And to top it all off, the cost of the furniture, in my opinion, was simply off the charts. This was determined by simply calculating the cost of component materials. For some designs, the retail cost of materials was more than an order of magnitude lower than the cost of the bed. Of course, I immediately had the desire to make the bed myself and with my own hands. The Internet has helped in solving this issue.

How to make a large lift-up bed with your own hands

The work began with the search for the important node lifting bed - hinges. Were considered various options lifting mechanisms with spring hinges, pneumatic cylinders, counterweights and mechanical with electric drive. The choice fell on the use of the most proven and feasible method of manufacturing a lifting bed using lifting mechanics based on spring hinges. The question “how to do it?” I decided to make the bed with my own hands with the selected hinge option. The most powerful hinges that could be found were chosen; the manufacturer guaranteed a lifting weight of the bed of 200 kg. Hinge brand 108/4 , are made in Italy. The hinges were ordered online. A month later transport company I delivered a parcel weighing about 25 kg with two hinges and retractable legs for the bed.

Receipt of the cargo became the starting point for the start of work. The next day the old bed was dismantled, the old mattress was thrown out and a new one with dimensions of 2000x1600x200 mm was immediately purchased. The place for furniture creativity was ready. Maybe this is the wrong approach, but at that time I didn’t have a clear decision on how to make a bed. Initially I was going to go along classic version– production of a wall structure where the bed was removed. But the desire to make the entire bed out of wood, not Chipboard boards, the cost of materials has greatly increased. This is where the idea came to use two closets in the room as a wall structure - a niche for the future bed. But first it was necessary to make the bed itself. Geometric calculations and glued boards offered in the nearest store led to following design lifting part of the bed: side walls made of thick glued boards with a cross-section of 250×40 mm, end walls made of 25 mm glued boards, crossbars made of bars with a cross-section of 45×45 mm. Don’t be lazy, choose cross members without knots and defects; the fibers should be even along the entire length of the bar! I admit that, having no experience, I was tormented by doubts as to whether the bottom structure would withstand future loads, and periodically imagined how the bed under me would break;). The work was carried out in the evenings and on weekends right in the room. So, the sequence of making a homemade lift-up built-in bed. Unfortunately photo chronicle of production makeshift bed was carried out, but as happens it was not preserved with a few exceptions. The bed assembly scheme was born in the process of building a homemade lifting bed.

Instructions for making a homemade lift-up bed

1. The sketch of the lifting part of the bed consisted of a box of four boards and four cross members to form the bottom for the orthopedic frame.

2. It was decided to connect the frame boards in THORN on glue (hereinafter, PVA glue was used to glue the wood, 1 liter was enough for everything). To apply the contours of the spikes, a stencil is cut out of cardboard before sawing. Carefully apply the contour for cutting, incorrect markings after cutting will ruin the board, there is no reserve in length! Remember the rule - in each connection of boards, the tenon of one board must correspond to the groove between the tenons of the other board. The boards were originally 30-50mm larger than the external size of the box; this excess is cut off after gluing the joint.

Spikes

3. The spikes were selected with a jigsaw and trimmed if necessary construction knife and a chisel.

4. After removing the tenons on a flat surface (for me it was the covered floor of the room), the bed frame is assembled, you need to check inner dimensions and the lengths of the diagonals - the diagonals must be equal! (±5-10mm). If necessary, the workpieces are adjusted to ensure equal diagonals.

5. Mark the installation locations of the crossbars. The grooves are selected using manual milling machine, sampling depth 30mm. There is no worse way to do this carefully with a chisel.

6. After selecting the grooves, the workpieces were polished and coated with colorless varnish on water based. A total of 3 layers were applied. After the varnish had completely dried, work continued.

7. We adjust the dimensions of the crossbars taking into account the depth and shape of the grooves made. We don’t throw away the trimmings, they will still be needed.

8. We connect the crossbars and tenon joints of the frame with glue. We need to prepare for this operation. The best connection will be obtained when connecting with force. The force is created using twisted rope loops wooden block. Be careful and careful!!! It is imperative to make linings to prevent damage to the boards by ropes. The loop must be twisted until significant forces arise when twisting.

It is very important to set all the angles and constantly monitor the length of the diagonals. The diagonals must be equal. The glue must be dried thoroughly and securely. It is better to leave the frame alone for a few days.

9. After making the frame, the room was rearranged; one of the cabinets was specially moved to form the second wall of the bed niche. The distance between the cabinets should be equal to the external width of the bed and the thickness of the mounted hinges.

10. It is natural to attach the hinges to just standing wardrobe didn't. Cabinets need to be strengthened and secured. Firstly, all removable shelves in the lower part of the cabinets were firmly screwed to the walls using furniture screws, and all available threaded connections fit. Each cabinet is screwed to the wall at at least three points using corners. As a result, the cabinets stood rooted to the spot :).

11. Since there was no clarity on the method of assembling the bed, I decided to install the hinges and check the mechanism. The position of the hinges determines the height of the lowered bed and the distance from the wall of the raised bed. When choosing the position of the hinges, it is necessary to take into account the movement of the headboard along the radius of the axis of rotation. In my version, when lowering the bed, the board passes 3cm from the wall. The coordinates of the rotation axis are shown in the sketch.

12. The loop is a structure in the form of a frame installed on a support and the actual loop installed on the bed. The frames were attached to the cabinets with self-tapping screws. They must be installed symmetrically and at the same level.

13. The hinges were fastened using furniture bolts through a large washer. The hinges have holes with appropriate threads. Holes were marked and drilled in the frame boards at the installation site. Through the holes the loops were attached to the bed. I want to say right away that if you follow my path, then you need to remove at least four springs from the hinge so that you can easily lower the bed frame for work and put a small load to avoid spontaneous lifting.

14. After screwing the hinges, I installed the frame vertically. The design of the box was still light and I easily inserted the hinges into the frames and secured them with standard staples. With fewer springs, the frame was easily lowered and remained down with a small weight, and when raised it also had to be held. The room immediately felt freer. Further all work was carried out on a fixed bed.

15. The next step there was reinforcement at the bottom of the bed. The crossbars made of bars looked flimsy and it was hard to believe that they would support the weight. But there was nowhere to retreat - construction continued. It was decided to make the bottom from 6mm plywood.

16. Bars with a cross-section of 45x45mm were glued to the side walls of the frame along the perimeter. The glued bars and crossbars must be in the same plane. Clamps were used to create pressure. To avoid damaging the boards, it is necessary to place spacers. With only 5 clamps, the bars were glued in three stages. The bars were not glued only to the side walls of the top of the bed, where the legs were attached. Further work were carried out 7 days after gluing the last bar.

17. For the legs at the top end board bed frame selected 2 holes square shape. Initially, I was tormented by doubts that the mounting holes for the legs were not enough, but subsequent operating experience showed the reliability of the fastening.

18. The bottom is made from purchased 6 mm plywood. It was not possible to make the bottom from one piece of plywood, since standard width sheet of plywood 1500mm, two sheets of plywood measuring 1500x1500mm were purchased from the store.

19. Sheets of plywood are cut so that the seams fall on less loaded bars. After cutting out all the pieces of plywood, I began work on attaching them to the bars. The plywood was supposed to be attached with glue, and to create pressure at the gluing points, drill into the plywood through holes 3mm in diameter for pressing sheets with self-tapping screws. The plywood is laid out on the inner frame and future holes are planned; to reduce nicks in the gluing area, it is better to start drilling from reverse side sheets of plywood. At the place where the legs are attached, grooves are left in the pieces of plywood for access to the fasteners of the legs.

20. The installation sites of the sheets are generously lubricated with glue and the plywood sheets are pressed using self-tapping screws. The bed is raised and again left alone for several days. Then all the screws are removed, and the remaining holes are filled with PVA glue in several stages until the glue dries completely. I left some of the screws in place.

21. With the installation of plywood, the bed became heavier and it was necessary to adjust the tension of the springs to make it easier to lift; it no longer rose spontaneously. During the drying process, the leaks in the gluing of the plywood with the bars are additionally covered with glue. This must be done to prevent possible squeaks In the bed.

22. At this stage, you can remove the bed from its hinges and install three more springs. Further, the bed will become heavier and installing the springs will require more effort.

23. Tests of the plywood-covered bottom showed (three adults stood in the center of the bed) that the bed was durable. After testing, the bottom of the bed was additionally sanded and coated with water-based varnish in three layers.

24. After the varnish has dried, the mattress is installed in the bed. The mattress, when unfolded, turned out to be somewhat larger in size and therefore fit tightly into the internal volume of the bed frame and its additional fastening, as in the site, was not required.

25. The next practical tests of the bed were carried out, based on the results of the presence of a large free space between the mattress and the wall in the raised state, I decided to place pillows and a blanket in the bed. To do this, four Velcro straps from the mattress packaging are installed. The ends of the belts were attached to the bottom of the bed with self-tapping screws - bugs. When the bed was raised, the blanket and pillows were pressed against the mattress with straps.

26. Finishing continued by installing cladding on the outer part of the bottom from fiberboard sheets - sheets from the bottom were used old bed. The sheets were attached with glue and pressed with postal nails. All sheets are placed in the same plane. After gluing the fiberboard, the bed was already raised with considerable effort and the tension of the springs was adjusted with the appropriate screw on each hinge to easily lift the bed.
27. To strictly fix the bed in a vertical position, limiters for the movement of the bed when lifting are installed. The limiters are installed on a horizontal board between the cabinets, which also serves as dust protection for the raised bed. The limiter is made of a piece of board; a sponge rubber shock absorber is installed at the point of contact with the bed. It is better to secure a piece of board with glue and screws. The glue fastening did not hold up and was reinforced with self-tapping screws.

Find custom furniture in furniture showrooms quite difficult, and execution individual orders is more expensive, so for many optimal solution is a DIY folding bed. Usually the decision to make a folding bed-wardrobe is made by the owners small apartments, where is every spot usable area on account. The lifting mechanism with which the transformable furniture is equipped allows you to lower the bed at night and put the sleeping area in the closet during the day, freeing up space that a regular bed would take up all day long. Having drawings, available materials And standard set tools, a folding bed is easy to make yourself.

Design principle and design options

A bed-wardrobe is a transformer consisting of a fixed wall box and sleeping place(stock) that can be raised and lowered.

More popular are transformers of a vertical design (longitudinal-folding), in which the head of the bed is attached to the walls of the box. They can be one-and-a-half, double, or less often single, and when folded they imitate a closet.

Cross-folding or horizontal transforming beds are mainly installed in children's rooms; they are also suitable for teenagers and short people. These are mainly single beds that recline sideways, and when folded they imitate a chest of drawers or a shelf. Sometimes horizontal beds are made into bunk beds, similar to shelves in a reserved seat carriage.

The bed of a vertical bed is usually made solid, but sometimes it is equipped not only with head hinges, but also with side hinges, and folds in half when put away in a box. The closet for such a transforming bed needs a deeper one, but its upper part can be used as a mezzanine for bedding.

On the sides of the box you can mount shelving in the same style, or make a folding bed part of a furniture set. Sometimes the bed is raised relative to the floor, and in the lower part of the closet there are small compartments for shoes, a bed with hinged doors or drawers.

Set of materials and tools

The most important element required to make a folding bed is lifting mechanism. On sale you can find mechanisms with different operating principles:

mechanical;
spring;
on gas shock absorbers(gas lifts).

The last option is the most modern, with its help the transformer folds and unfolds without extra effort, the movement of the bed is smooth and silent, the bed is securely fixed in the desired position. The materials for making the stock must be selected in such a way that it is strong enough to withstand the weight of a person(s). At the same time, the folding bed should not be too massive so as not to create excessive load on the mechanism.

In addition to the mechanism for making a bed, you will need:

timber with a section of 40x40 and edged board for the frame;
sheets of plywood or slats for the bottom of the berth;
Chipboard, if the cabinet will be made with a back wall;
furniture panels made of laminated chipboard, MDF or solid wood for the sides and backs of the bed, box walls, cabinet facades. There are many companies where you can order the cutting of material into parts of the required size, as well as process their edges;
furniture legs(if the bed will rest on them);

To determine the size of the parts, you need to focus on the dimensions of the mattress. The height of the box should be slightly greater than the length of the mattress; the thickness of the front and back walls of the bed should be added and a gap should be left. The width of the box is made 16 cm larger than the width of the mattress (space is needed to install a lifting mechanism).

The depth of the cabinet box is usually equal to the height of the mattress + 32 cm. For the frame of the bed, you need to use a beam of such a size that the frame is slightly larger than the mattress, and it fits freely into ready box. For the sides, front and back walls of the bed, you can take boards whose width is equal to the height of the mattress. It will protrude above their edges, since it will lie on the frame and the bottom fixed on top.

You will need strong belts to secure it, loops to secure the raised bed, fasteners - self-tapping screws, corners, possibly dowels, furniture fittings. If you purchase already cut materials, you can do without a jigsaw or saw, but a drill, screwdriver or screwdrivers are a must, a hammer will come in handy. You will also need tools for measurements and markings - a tape measure, a square, a pencil, a long rigid ruler, a level. Having decided on the design and location of the bed, as well as preparing necessary materials and tools, you can start assembling.

Sequence of work

Installation of the transformer begins with the box. For the side panels, take material 25 mm thick, top panel can be thinner, from 16 mm. Sometimes the box is assembled without a bottom, but a platform is attached to the floor - a piece of double-thickness slab on which it will rest. If the bed is large, additional stiffening ribs are needed inside the box, at least one board installed horizontally closer to the floor, but it is not necessary to create a back wall. The parts can be connected to each other using furniture dowels - wooden cylinders for which holes are drilled required diameter.

Markings are made on the walls of the box for mounting the lifting mechanism. The floor and wall are marked for installation of the box, holes for fasteners are marked (fastening spacing is 25 cm). It should be taken into account that each time when raising or lowering the berth, part of the applied force will be directed to tearing the box away from load-bearing structure. Therefore, it must be securely fastened best wall for these purposes - concrete or brick. Fastening to the wall is carried out using metal corners and self-tapping screws.

Then the bed is assembled - the frame frame is assembled from timber, and if necessary, stiffeners are made inside. The frame is sheathed on the sides with boards or pieces of slab, and lamellas or a sheet of plywood with ventilation holes are placed on top of the frame. This creates a box in which the mattress will be placed. To the bottom of the frame you need to attach the parts of the bottom of the bed, which will imitate the facade of the closet. You also need to think about what the outer edge of the bed will rest on. Traditional legs will be noticeable when the folding bed is put away in the closet. The following solutions are possible:

removable or swivel legs;
when disassembled - a support, when assembled - a hanger, a handle that can be pulled to set the transformer in motion;

cross panel serving as a support in assembled form looks like a shelf;
a rolling box is used as a support.

A lifting mechanism is mounted in the designated places of the box, its other edge is fixed to the outer edge of the bed in the area of the headboard. The mattress is placed in place and secured with special straps. After assembly, the structure must be tested to check the operation of the gas lift. You need to make sure that the transformation process occurs without distortions, jamming and does not require excessive effort. You may have to adjust the mechanism and adjust the parts. You should also check if there is a gap between the support and the floor.

The room is too cramped and does not have the desired amount of free space, but all the furniture in the room is necessary? If you don't have the option to expand living space your apartment, other than moving to a more spacious, modern home, you shouldn’t be upset, because there are a lot of great ideas do make your small home more comfortable to live in!

Folding bed - required condition for small apartments, when you need to fit everything in without cluttering the space.

Successful camouflage of furniture makes a bulky structure aesthetically pleasing and suitable for any room.

What takes up a lot of space in the room? Most people will answer that it is a sofa or an old sofa. If this is the case in your case, then after reading our article, you will not only learn how to save space by installing in your room reclining bed, but you will also learn how do her with her own hands.

Vertical orientation is the most economical option wall placement of a sleeping place.

An additional advantage in favor of creating a new sleeping place will be getting rid of old, out-of-fashion sofas. At the same time, a new, modern, comfortable folding bed will very soon become a source of your pride, because you will be happy to show your creation to friends who come to visit!

In this design, furniture can be of any size: single, double, non-standard.

The folding bed when assembled looks like a regular compact one closet for clothes, taking up a minimum amount of space in your small apartment, but thanks to the folding n Thanks to this mechanism, the sleeping place easily unfolds, turning into a real feather bed. Yes Yes exactly! Sleep comfort level at folding bed can be equated precisely to the convenience of relaxing on a luxurious soft feather bed!

A niche for furniture is a pencil case, a cabinet with hinged doors or a wardrobe.

A wardrobe bed can be an independent piece of furniture, but most often it is part of an entire furniture set.

So, now that there is no doubt left about the need for this item to appear in your apartment, you can begin manufacturing and assembly, but first you need to decide on the design, as well as external design folding bed.

When folded, such a bed takes up minimal space and does not harm the spine during sleep.

It can be vertical or horizontal, but it is worth considering that horizontal options usually intended for children and teenagers, representing small single beds that turn into a shelf or chest of drawers, while vertical structures can be of any size.

A chest of drawers can be used in a children's room or placed under the wall in the living room as a “spare spare” in case guests arrive.

Simple operation allows the design to be used in a children's room.

First, you need to create a drawing of the future product, which will help you navigate the assembly process much faster, obtaining the desired result. The skills of a design engineer are not required; it is quite enough to prepare a simple schematic drawing of the future sleeping place, specifying the dimensions and configuration of the structure on it.

Drawing of a wardrobe-bed.

The next important step is the selection and purchase of the necessary materials and tools. The highest quality construction will be made from chipboard panels, so we recommend using them as the main material. Chipboard panels should be purchased from specialized shopping centers, because from the quality source material The durability of your future bed will depend.

It is better to make the base of the bed orthopedic.

You will also need:

D rel;
screwdriver;
E electric jigsaw;
R Uletka;
M screws;
With amorez;
About the folding mechanism.

Tools can always be purchased in specialized stores or ordered online.

So, you have prudently purchased the necessary materials and tools, prepared a drawing, and decided on the dimensions of the future piece of furniture. When everything you need has already been prepared, we begin to make furniture with our own hands. We divided the assembly process into 4 steps.

Step one. It is necessary to assemble the frame closet and, hiding a compact sleeping place. Such a box consists of several parts: plinth, back wall closet and, as well as shelves for support. All parts are attached to each other with self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws located approximately 25 centimeters from each other. Assembled closet should only be installed on a flat floor.

Assembling the cabinet frame.

Attaching the top panel.
Step two. Install assembled structure, which will serve as a reliable support for the folding part of the furniture and attach it to the wall.

The “skeleton” of the cabinet is ready.

We attach the “skeleton” to main wall apartments.
Step three. Now let's assemble the base. It is a frame made of boards, the height of which corresponds to the size of the future mattress. In this case, the base should ideally fit the frame we have already assembled closet A.

We attach slats to the frame.

Thus, we get a structure where the mattress will be placed in the future.
Step four. Now that all the main parts of the structure have been assembled, we connect the base to the box, fixing the parts together using self-tapping screws. Then we fasten reclining oh mechanism in accordance with the attached instructions.

Installation of a bed frame using a bed lifting mechanism and gas springs.

An important component of the bed - this is where the load is heaviest.

It is better not to experiment at this stage and purchase a factory-assembled folding mechanism.

In this way, unnecessary complications will be avoided finishing stage work, saving significant time. At the final stage, we simply connect the body with other elements, after which all that remains is to line the outer part of the box with boards so that it looks more like closet , and also paint the structure to your liking.

Once you have connected the folding mechanism to the mattress frame, you can safely use such a bed.

We install the facade in the form of improvised cabinet doors. Using the handles, the bed will be moved to a horizontal position.

For a more aesthetic appearance Once the finished structure is finished, the entire product must be varnished to protect the wood from dampness and rotting if the chipboard panels were not initially treated.

The price for high-quality German and Italian lifting mechanisms is quite high, but the safety is worth it.

We install the mattress and the compact sleeping place is ready! Now you can enjoy the new comfortable furniture and, of course, a large number free space in a room that seemed to have nowhere to come from!

In catalogs furniture fittings it is written down what orientation of the berth, dimensions and weight the lifting mechanism is designed for.

VIDEO: DIY wardrobe bed.

A bed with a lifting mechanism is the best option for small apartments, which allows you to solve several problems related to the improvement of the room at once. Practicality, reliability and versatility are its main advantages. It can act not only as a sleeping place, but also serve as a chest of drawers for storing various things and accessories. Making a bed with a lifting mechanism with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. If all the requirements and recommendations of specialists are met, the bed will turn out no worse than the factory one. In order to figure out how to do this, it is necessary to divide the entire process into several stages, each of which requires special attention.

Features of such models

Beds with lifting device have a number of features that must be taken into account when making it yourself:

the dimensions of the bed, which mainly affect the strength of the lifting device. The larger the bed, the more weight will be placed on the mechanism. According to the standards, the bed size is 2 meters in length, the width of a single bed is 0.9 m, a double bed is 2 m;
beds with a lifting device can be single or double;
the mechanism can be mounted horizontally or vertically;
The height of the bed affects the capacity of the box. If the product is planned to be made with legs, then the box will be much smaller than a bed without them. A product without legs has another important advantage: the absence of dust underneath;
assembling a product with your own hands requires consistent, responsible implementation of all its stages, these are drawings, preparation of materials, manufacturing individual parts beds, their assembly. On average, it will take 1-2 months to make a bed, subject to the simultaneous completion of other daily duties;
the choice of material should be made not only from personal preferences, but also depending on the design of the room in which the product is planned to be installed.

Bed with a steel frame Diagram of a bed frame with a lifting mechanism Diagram of a bed with a lifting mechanism

Bed assembly diagram

Materials and tools

Any construction process or making furniture with your own hands begins with drawing up a drawing, as well as preparing the necessary tools and materials. The choice of material begins with the base of the box. The most common and inexpensive material for the manufacture of any furniture are chipboard sheets. But other materials, such as OSB, particle boards and others can also be used, it all depends on the owner’s preferences and financial capabilities. Next, the upholstery material is prepared, the choice of which depends solely on personal preferences and the design of the room.

The filling of the bed consists of foam rubber and upholstery fabric. Their dimensions and thickness are prepared according to the drawn up drawing.

The most accessible and inexpensive material for making a bed is chipboard

To process the material and prepare it for installation work with your own hands, you will need the following tool:

level;
roulette;
pencil or marker;
jigsaw;
screwdriver with different attachments;
grinder with a metal disc;
welding machine;
construction hair dryer;
steel strips;
furniture stapler.

Orthopedic base

Base materials

Elevator transformation system

Which lifting mechanism to choose

The design of modern beds allows them to be used in rooms of different sizes, while having a suitable lifting mechanism, thanks to which the bed can be reclined both horizontally and vertically. In addition, lift beds are classified according to the type of built-in lift. The simplicity and ease of use of furniture depends on it. The lifting mechanism is divided into 3 types:

with manual lift;
spring;
on gas shock absorbers.

Gas lift Spring Manual

The manual lift mechanism is the most affordable device because it does not contain additional accessories in the form of shock absorbers or springs. Beds with such a mechanism are mainly used for adults, since when opening the box you need to make a lot of effort, children cannot cope with such a load. But, besides the shortcomings, manual mechanism There are also advantages - strength, durability.

The spring mechanism is convenient to use, but its service life ranges from 3 to 5 years, after which it will need to be completely replaced. The main cause of failure is wear and stretching of the spring. The big advantage of the spring mechanism is its price; it is relatively small, thanks to which it is very popular and in demand.

The gas shock absorber is the most convenient, reliable, durable mechanism. The device operates smoothly, silently, with virtually no human intervention. The service life of such a mechanism ranges from 5 to 10 years, with constant use. The choice of shock absorber is made depending on the dimensions of the product and the weight of the sleeping frame. The mechanism on gas shock absorbers is expensive, but at the same time in demand.

When making a bed with your own hands, a lifting device can be purchased at furniture stores or order online. You can make it yourself from suitable materials. But when choosing materials, you need to take into account the fact that the load from the mattress falls not only on the shock absorbers and mechanism bars, but also on the fastening points with fastening fittings.

The mechanism is fastened in the following order:

first installed top bar devices, to the base of the box, sheathing of the sleeping plane;
to completely secure it, a bar is made from rolled iron;
assembly of the next two slats will allow you to control the height of the rise of the grid with the mattress;
the lower support bar is attached to the main box; it is necessary to facilitate the sliding of the hinge supports;
Having finished installing the mechanism, you need to check all its fastenings.

The gas lift is mounted on a rack base

Mechanism on gas shock absorbers

Installation of gas shock absorbers

Making a lifting frame

Assembling a lifting frame with your own hands consists of two main stages, this carpentry work and processing process.

Carpentry work:

assembly begins with the preparation of parts for the frame, according to the drawing, which indicates all dimensions;
Next, the base of the frame is assembled, this is a box of calibrated boards. The process must be carried out on the floor to avoid distortions. To align the corners, you must use a construction square;
The structure is tied using metal corners, and for strength, the joints are glued with wood glue. When fastening, you need to pay attention to the heads of the screws; they should sink into the wood, but not too much. It is recommended to immediately treat any cut areas that appear;
in case of large sleeping space, it is recommended to make a central partition along the frame;
the next stage is the fastening of the slats, which are screwed using screws with inside sidewalls, aligning them along the bottom edge of the box. They are needed to attach lamellas to them. The size of the slats should be within 20 by 80 mm;
The same slats act as slats, only their length will correspond to the width of the bed. They are fastened to support rails along the frame, in increments of no more than 15 cm. Plywood is also suitable for slats, but in this case the installation of a central partition is required;
At this point the carpentry process is completed and the lifting frame is ready.

Frame processing:

this process involves refinement wooden parts using sandpaper or a special sanding machine and coating them with varnish;
One of the nuances of preparing the frame is a plywood sheet, which lies on the lamellas to evenly distribute the load. Or you can lay the lamellas with a step frequency of 8–10 cm.

Frame assembly

The sides of the bed are attached using corners and screws

Ready frame beds

Making the main frame

The assembly of the frame, like all other components of the bed, is carried out in stages. First of all, to manufacture the main frame, its components are prepared. Design, height, size of backrests, presence of legs - all these nuances are reflected in a pre-drawn drawing. The main requirement in the manufacture of a product is reliability, strength and quality of the material.

As mentioned above, any material can be used, depending on financial capabilities and personal preferences. For a double box standard bed(2000x1800) you will need: for the side parts - two boards 207 cm long, for the end elements you need two boards 182 cm long. They are assembled according to the same principle as the lifting frame, using screws, corners and glue. In the assembly process, this moment is the most critical, so before attaching the corners, you need to check that all corners correspond to 90 degrees. Excess glue that has come out must be removed immediately so that in the future it does not cause difficulties when processing the frame.

During production large beds With your own hands, you need to install a stiffener in the main box, through the longitudinal axis of the product. If the bed design includes legs, then the last stage V installation process is their installation. The simplest option for making them is to assemble two bars (40x50) and install them at the depth of two crowns of the bar. To strengthen the structure, you can also install a leg in the center. Having placed the structure in its original position, you can proceed to its processing, clean it and varnish it.

Fastening slats for plywood bottom

Bed legs

The legs are attached inside the frame

View from outside

To prevent the floor from scratching, you can glue pieces of linoleum to the ends of the legs.

Sheathing of the product

The final step in making a bed with a lifting device is its design decoration, sheathing. Depending on the design of the room, the personal preferences of the owner, as well as banal financial capabilities, cladding can be done using:

fabrics;
skin;
dermantine.

If the product is made from high-quality wood, it can be treated with paints and varnishes.

For the cladding process you will need:

fabric (or other selected materials);
construction stapler;
sheet foam rubber.

The covering is done on the main frame and headboard. To create a small volume and airiness of the upholstery material, a pad of sheet foam rubber is made between the wood and the fabric. A construction stapler is quite sufficient for fastening fabric; its metal staples, thanks to the spring mechanism, are driven quite firmly into the wood and hold the fabric tightly.

Legs are wrapped in upholstery material

Final installation of legs

The sides of the bed are covered with foam rubber

Foam rubber is nailed on top with an overlap of approximately 3-4 mm

Leatherette upholstery

This is how the side around the leg was finished

The leatherette was lined at the bottom with a slouch, without a turn-up

The corners of the upholstery are fixed

Making a headboard

The headboard for the bed can be made of the same material as the entire product, or you can use a regular sheet of plywood. On plywood or other material you need to make necessary measurements and use a jigsaw to cut out the shape of the back that you like best. But you need to keep in mind that during the cladding process it is easier to work with rectangular shapes.

A headboard blank is cut from a sheet of plywood

A wooden border is attached to the workpiece

The upholstery of the headboard follows the same principle as the main frame, using construction stapler, sheathing material and foam sheets. The difference is that for the headboard the covering should be more airy, so two sheets of foam rubber are laid between the plywood and the material. Depending on the design of the bed, using foam rubber and different types material, can be given unique look headboard.

Fastening foam rubber

Second layer of foam

Thick batting finish

Stretch the fabric

Finished headboard

To summarize, we can say that when thinking about how to assemble a bed with a lifting mechanism, you should not be afraid of difficulties, because it is quite possible to do it yourself. The main condition for receiving good result, this is the sequential execution of all installation stages, the first of which is drawing up a drawing, where all dimensions, amount of material, necessary tools. If all geometric proportions are observed, the bed will turn out to be of much higher quality and more reliable than the purchased version. The material for its manufacture is selected depending on personal preferences, financial capabilities and room design.

Just think about which piece of furniture takes up a huge amount of space in our small-sized homes? Of course it's a bed. Many people prefer to purchase compact folding sofas to save space. But not even the most comfortable sofa can replace the feeling of relaxation and comfort that you can experience while relaxing on the bed.

That is why folding beds, or, as they are also called, lifting beds, have become increasingly popular.

What is a lift bed

What kind of lift-up bed is this? In essence, this is an ordinary bed, which, when assembled in a vertical position, is placed in a closet or chest of drawers. Currently, furniture manufacturers use the most modern materials, thanks to which such a product will last long years, and the varied design will help you choose furniture to suit any interior.

This design is called a transformer, because during the day it is an ordinary wardrobe or chest of drawers with shelves, and at night it is a comfortable bed.

Folding furniture can be of two modifications:

Vertical. It is characterized by a vertical arrangement of the berth. This model The bed is suitable for people of different heights and weights (can be either a single or a double).
Horizontal. It is distinguished by the longitudinal arrangement of the sleeping bed. Most often used for children's bed models.

Among the features, one more factor can be identified, which is the installation of folding beds together with a mattress specially made to fit. Many manufacturers offer a choice of purchasing similar furniture: just a separate bed or a bed with adjacent niches and shelves. Of course, this equipment costs a little more, but it fits well into the interior.

Pros and cons of lift-up beds

Positive sides:

the most important advantage is the huge space savings;
the upholstery does not get dusty or dirty;
beautiful design solution– economical and elegant.

But there are also certain disadvantages:

this is of course high price similar structures;
such a bed will also have to be assembled every day in the morning and laid out in the evening (in general, this option is not for the lazy);
there is no way to move it to some other place.

Of course, to save space, you can try to assemble this design with your own hands.

DIY folding bed: step-by-step instructions

Let's consider the main stage of its manufacture:

You need to determine for yourself what kind of bed you need - a vertical or horizontal modification.
Indicate what you will need for the job: frame, lifting mechanism, orthopedic mattress. Select the material from which the bed will be assembled (you can take chipboard, MDF or natural wood). The main thing here is that the selected material suits you in every way. technical specifications, that is, it was durable, reliable and environmentally friendly.

Materials that will be needed for the upcoming work:

MDF boards 20 mm thick;
plywood 10 mm thick;
nails;
screws;
fastening loops.

Tools:

yardstick;
pencil;
emery;
drill;
screwdrivers: Phillips and slotted;
corner;
saw;
grinding angle.

After preliminary preparation Let's proceed directly to the assembly.

The first step is to assemble the frame. It can be in the form of a cabinet or be a separate piece of apartment design. When choosing material for the box, you must remember that in the future you will have to make efforts to lift it along with the bed. Therefore, the wall on which the structure is installed must be concrete in order to withstand the load placed on it.
We attach the box to the wall, based on the upper profile and the axis of rotation of the structure. The thickness of the vertical walls is usually 2.5 centimeters, and the horizontal thickness is from 1.5 to 2.5 centimeters. The box consists of two parts (plinth and shelf for support). The back wall does not need to be attached.
All parts are fastened together with self-tapping screws at a distance of 25 centimeters from each other. The frame must be installed on a flat surface.
To make the bed itself, you need to take two side boards, two backs and a headboard. In order to strengthen the mattress on the bed, special belts are used. For all other parts - mounting angles.
The next stage of assembly is attaching the stock to the frame using a lifting mechanism. Recommended to use ready-made option with gas spring. Using it, you can fix this structure in any position. It is also a good idea to attach an additional fastener to prevent the bed from spontaneously opening. The safety strap is attached to the top of the frame, which holds the folding part through a loop.

Horizontal design

Assembly mechanism of this product similar to the vertical model.

There is a stock box and a lifting mechanism. Their parameters will differ depending on the size of the mattress and the bed itself.

For installation you need:

four chipboard parts for side (1080 × 394 × 19 mm) and internal items (1080 × 265 × 19 mm);
two wood panels for the bed cover (2020 × 400 × 19 mm) and the shelf (1010 × 400 × 19 mm);
two wood panels for the bottom of the bed (1982 × 390 × 19 mm) and shelves (972 × 390 × 19 mm);
two wood panels for decorating a chest of drawers (980 × 310 × 19 mm);
two bed guides (2000 mm);
cornice (2020 × 992 × 19 mm).

All parts are attached with self-tapping screws. This design is assembled according to the principle of assembling a vertical bed. Side rails 13 cm long are attached along the length of the frame so that the mattress does not move.