Ceramic tile floor design. All about ceramic floor tiles in the kitchen

The kitchen is the most popular place in the apartment. Very often there are gatherings at the table, tea parties, and family dinners. Housewives spend a huge amount of time in the kitchen to prepare delicious and healthy food.

Flooring plays an important role in creating the ideal kitchen design. It should be beautiful and stylish, but at the same time resistant to water, cleaning agents and detergents, durable and non-slippery, cleaning should not take much time and effort. Most of all, tiles meet these requirements.

Let's see why tiles are such a popular kitchen floor covering.

Advantages and disadvantages

Tile is widely used as kitchen flooring due to its advantages over other types of flooring. But, like any material, it has both supporters and opponents who vote for and against the use of tiles on the floor.

The main advantages of kitchen floor tiles:

• Increased strength. The tiled floor is not subject to deformation. That is, despite the fact that the kitchen often contains heavy furniture (cabinets with dishes and food, a massive table and chairs, household appliances), it does not negatively affect the floor covering. If the tiles are laid with high quality, then they are not afraid of any load.
• Ease and simplicity of repair. If an unpleasant situation does occur and one of the tiles is damaged, you will not have to completely change the coating. It is enough to replace one piece that has become unusable.
• Wear resistance will allow your floor to retain its original appearance more than 15 years. The paint will not become more faded and will not fade under the influence of sunlight.
• Easy to care for. When cleaning and washing the floor, you can not be afraid of damaging the tiled floor. You can use any detergents and cleaning products without fear; they will not harm the tiles on the floor. Besides tile covering does not absorb grease, dirt, water and unpleasant odors.
• High temperature resistance. Even if you spill hot water or accidentally drop a burning match, they will not damage the tile surface.

• Sophistication of the coating, a huge number of colors, textures and models. You can choose floor tiles to suit every taste, to suit different styles and kitchen interiors.
• Reasonable prices. Tiles from domestic manufacturers can be purchased at an affordable price and of high quality.
• The tiles do not harm households and pets. It is made from natural material(sand and clay), and does not cause allergies.
• Tiled flooring does not attract dust, so it will remain clean for a long time.

But, like any other coating, along with a large number of positive characteristics, floor tiles also have some disadvantages.

The main disadvantages of this coating:

1. The tiled floor is cold. If you are used to walking around your apartment or house barefoot, then in winter your feet will quickly freeze. Installing a heated floor will help cope with this drawback. In summer, this disadvantage turns into an advantage: after all, on a hot day, it’s so nice to walk on a cool floor.
2. Tile is a very hard material. If you drop a glass glass, ceramic plate or porcelain cup on the floor, it will most likely break.
3. If something heavy falls on a tiled floor, the coating may become chipped or scratched.

Comparing the pros and cons of kitchen floor tiles, it is clear that the number of positive characteristics far outweighs the disadvantages, and negative aspects can be avoided if a little caution is exercised.

Criterias of choice

When choosing tiles for the floor, pay attention to the markings indicated by the manufacturer. This way you can quickly navigate among the diversity tiles.

The main icons that you can find on the packaging of tiles:

• a white foot on a black background is a floor tile, if a brush is painted on the same background, it is a wall tile;
• foot on a shaded field - increased wear resistance;
• diamond icon - the degree of hardness of the material;
• the color of the marking indicates the type of tile: 1st grade - red tint; 2nd - blue color; 3rd - green tone.

As a kitchen flooring, you should use tiles that meet the following criteria:

1. Hardness and impact resistance. Sufficiently thick tiles with low porosity meet these criteria. The less porous the tile, the more durable it is. Glazed tiles are also characterized by increased impact resistance.
2. Resistance to influence chemical substances and erasure. This indicator is influenced by the quality of the enamel and the presence of special additives.
3. Slip. To avoid slipping in the kitchen, choose floor tiles with relief or roughness. Even if you carelessly spill water on such a kitchen floor, you will not slip.
4. Resistant to temperature changes. The less porous the tile, the better it can withstand large temperature changes.
5. Accuracy of dimensions, thickness and shape of tiles. If the tiles are the same shape, size and thickness, your kitchen floor will have a perfect appearance. In addition, this will reduce the cost of sealing seams.

When purchasing tiles, you should take some time to inspect them. This way you will immediately appreciate its quality. High quality tiles must be:

• smooth;
• have no cracks, let alone chips;
• The edges of the tiles should be smooth on all sides.

Methods for laying tiles

It is necessary to carefully prepare for laying tiles on the floor. The base on which the tiles are to be laid must be firm and level. There should be no empty space between the base and the tile covering. Because under the influence of a large load, the tile may crack.

It will be necessary to repair all cracks, holes and uneven surfaces. Be sure to remove debris and dust before applying tile adhesive.

There are several ways to lay tiles on the floor:

1. Traditional - tiles must be laid close to each other parallel to the walls. This way you will get a real work of art on the kitchen floor, assembled from various pieces.
2. Diagonal - the tiles do not lie straight, but diagonally. This method will require you to increase your expenses as there will be a lot of waste. If you like this method of installation, then invite a highly qualified specialist, otherwise the floor in the kitchen may turn out crooked. But this method will help hide the lack of uneven floors and walls.
3. In the form of brickwork - very often used for laying rectangular tiles. This coating will look ideal if you use tiles in the form of brick or wood. Don't lay it down brickwork diagonally, since this method focuses attention on the irregular geometric proportions of the room.
4. To add volume to the room, use herringbone styling. It can be applied from floor to ceiling. You can lay rectangular and square tiles in the shape of a herringbone.
5. Modular method - installation is carried out in compliance with a certain pattern. Modular tiles can include diverse elements, borders and finishing inserts. Such tiles have a special designation “modulare”.

Also take care of purchasing ceramic skirting boards. It will highlight the tiled floor in the kitchen more advantageously than its plastic or wooden counterpart. It’s easier to buy a ready-made ceramic plinth. But you can also make your own using leftover floor tiles. It will need to be cut into pieces of a certain size.

For grouting, use a compound that matches the color of the floor covering. This little trick will create the impression of a continuous surface. If you want to emphasize the geometric pattern on the floor, then use grout in a contrasting color. Plus, grout in a darker shade will help make the room look cleaner.

Design

There are many different ideas, which will help you create a stylish designer floor covering. Be sure to pay attention to the style of the kitchen. The floor should be a logical addition to the interior.

When choosing tiles for the floor, pay attention to the size of the room. For example, if you lay light tiles without seams, this will visually increase the kitchen area. Transverse laying of rectangular tiles will visually expand a narrow room.

The combination of glossy and matte flooring looks unusual and impressive if they have an identical pattern.

When renovating your apartment, you probably encountered difficulties in choosing flooring in the kitchen. And trying to find a middle ground between the beauty of the coating and its practicality, in 90% of cases the choice converged on ceramic tiles.

Despite the large number of floor coverings: parquet, cork, solid wood. Tiles firmly occupy first place in the market. Among the main advantages is that tile is a very durable material.

Its rigidity depends on the thickness of the tile. If you manage to drop something very heavy and the tile cracks, you can always replace it by gluing a new element. Plus, it is low-maintenance and fairly easy to clean.

What you need to know before you go buy tiles

The first thing you should pay attention to before purchasing ceramic tiles is not their beauty, but their durability. What's the use of beautiful combination tiles with a kitchen set, if in a year or maybe even earlier it becomes covered with cracks and chips.

Choose kitchen tiles based on these characteristics:

• low slip level;
• increased wear resistance;
• protection from chemicals;
• porosity;
• sunburn.

Tiles with smaller modules and even mosaics may also be suitable. But keep in mind that the smaller the tile size, the harder and more expensive it will be to install.

If you still decide to purchase tiles with modules for a small kitchen big size, then be prepared that it will have to be cut frequently, which will lead to a large amount of waste, which will result in large expenses even taking into account the cheap installation of large tiles.

If you have a medium-sized kitchen of 9-12 square meters. then tiles measuring 33 by 33 and 40 by 40 centimeters are quite suitable.

Except square shape Rectangular tiles are often used. Often, tiles of this shape are laid when they have the color of parquet or imitate brick and stone.

Rectangular tiles will help visually expand a narrow kitchen. To achieve this effect, lay the long side of the tile perpendicularly long wall rooms.

An unusual kitchen effect can be achieved by laying tiles of unusual shapes. A hexagonal or rounded shape is suitable for this. A diamond shape and a wave-shaped module are also used.

Ceramic tile color

It is customary to choose the color of the tile depending on the chosen color of the walls and kitchen unit. It is advisable to stick to the middle between the color of the walls and kitchen furniture.

Here are the basic tips when choosing a tile color if the set has this color:

• If your set is white, then you can put a scarf of almost any color, but still keep in mind that White color classified as cold. If white kitchen has a blue tint, then the floor should be selected in a similar range. It is better to put terracotta or brown tiles in a milky white kitchen.
• White tiles with blue or blue accents will be ideally combined with blue kitchen furniture. blue color. Solid blue and sand with light orange are also suitable.
• Yellow, coffee, and light brown tiles will look good against the background of a green kitchen set.
• For furniture in burgundy tones, choose tiles in gray, beige and vanilla colors.
• It is more difficult with a wood-colored kitchen, since here you should take into account its appearance, namely color and texture. If the furniture's growth rings are clearly visible, then it is advisable to purchase plain tiles without a pattern. Also, you should not lay tiles that imitate wood, because this will create a “conflict” of colors.
• It is advisable to enliven a gray kitchen with bright colors such as red, orange, yellow. Or an ornament that dilutes the monotony of a gray shade is suitable.
• Kitchen set yellow color, on the contrary, it is necessary to shade it somewhat with calm colors. Black, gray and turquoise colors are perfect for this. But also pay attention to tiles in brown, olive and terracotta tones.

Laying

At first glance, there is nothing complicated in installing tiles on the floor, however, if you look in more detail, there are a large number of nuances that should be taken into account before starting installation.

Here it is very important to take into account the coating on which the tiles will be laid and the degree of its preparation. The floor needs to be leveled cement screed. The surface must be thoroughly cleaned, all cracks tightly sealed with a special solution.

After which, using grinder level the cement bead and allow the screed to dry. Next, the floor should be primed, and do not forget about waterproofing the surface.

To avoid any difficulties with its installation, it is better to immediately invite professionals, which will ultimately save your money.

There are still some “secrets” that are worth considering when laying tiles. To make the dirt on the tiles less noticeable, you should choose a dark grained or matte surface with an ornament. On a glossy monochromatic tile, it will be easier to notice a chip, which will not add to its presentability.

To visually divide the kitchen into zones, lay the tiles, creating a single pattern. A simple design will make the kitchen larger, while a complex one, on the contrary, will create the impression of a small kitchen.

Don't underestimate the effect of choosing a grout color. The more contrast the grout is, the more attention will be focused on the floor and the pattern on it. If you want to avoid unnecessary glances at the floor and are going to use it only as a background, then the grout should match the color of the tile.

And the last secret: on dark grout, dirt is not as visible as on light grout, which will create the effect of a cleaner floor.

Following the tips described above, choose ceramic tiles for your kitchen floor and enjoy your choice every day.

Kitchen floor tiles (real photos)

No matter how diverse the range of available finishing materials pleases us today, ceramic tiles, although they are among the venerable “veterans” of the construction market, are by no means in a hurry to lose their leading position in popularity. It occupies a very specific “niche” - this material, thanks to its unique performance characteristics, is used for external and external work, for residential and technical premises, for finishing floors and walls, facades and hydraulic structures, adjoining buildings and even garden design elements.

Ceramic tiles have practically no competitors in the field of interior decoration with a pronounced high level humidity - bathrooms, bathrooms, kitchens, etc. The strength of ceramics allows it to withstand high loads, therefore, when tiling floors in such rooms, preference is most often given to it, since for all its positive qualities it is also very affordable. And another important advantage is the relative ease of installation: if you thoroughly understand the intricacies of how to put tiles on the floor, get a little practice in your hand, and show diligence, then you can easily cope with such work yourself.

But before tackling styling issues, it would be logical to consider the problems of its correct selection.

How to choose floor tiles

When going to the store to select and purchase the necessary material, the apartment owner should “arm” himself with basic knowledge of what kind of tiles are usually on sale.

Choosing floor tiles based solely on their decorative qualities is an extremely frivolous approach. In a good store, trained sales consultants can be of great help and can tell you which tile model is intended for what purpose. But it’s better to be able to navigate the icons and pictograms, which can tell a lot on their own. The most common The symbols that may appear are shown in the table:

1 - This is a tile with pronounced frost-resistant qualities. It is suitable for the floor of a porch, veranda, balcony or loggia. There is no point in spending money on purchasing such tiles for further flooring in a heated room.

2 – A foot on an inclined plane is a symbol of the anti-slip properties of the tile. For rooms with high humidity(bathroom, kitchen) or for hallways, where shoes often carry moisture from the street - a very important criterion. Often this icon is accompanied by a digital indicator - this is the coefficient of friction. For the mentioned premises optimal choice will slightly rough tiles with the specified coefficient not lower than 0.75.

3 – A sign in the form of a diamond (sometimes found with an image of a drill) – the tile has increased characteristics of surface strength and resistance to accented impacts. Good quality for kitchen floors - accidentally dropped dishes will not cause serious damage to the flooring.

4 – A similar pictogram is always accompanied by a numerical value - this is the thickness of the ceramic tile. For laying on the floor, a material with a thickness of about 7–8 mm is usually purchased.

5 – Ultimate bending strength of a single tile. This parameter is determined based on the results of bench tests, and the higher it is, the better the quality of the material (for example, for porcelain stoneware this indicator is much higher than for ordinary tiles). However, the tiles on the floor should be laid so that the bending load is minimal - tightly and evenly to the surface, without air bubbles, shells, etc.

6 - The palm-shaped icon indicates that this ceramic tile is intended exclusively for walls. No matter how beautiful and durable it may seem, you cannot purchase it for laying on the floor.

7 – But the image of the shoe print speaks for itself - this tile is intended specifically for the floor.

8 or 16 are indicators of the resistance of ceramic tiles to abrasive and abrasive loads. In accordance with the international standard PE1 (EN ISO 105645.7), there are 5 wear resistance classes:

Wear resistance class according to PE1 (EN ISO 105645.7)	Application area
I	Such tiles are suitable for rooms with minimal load, where there is never intense movement of people (for example, a bathroom, toilet). Street shoes are not worn in such rooms, and they are not close to the exit to the street.
II	This tile is for rooms where people also wear slippers, but the intensity of traffic is somewhat higher.
III	The wear resistance of this class allows the use of ceramic tiles in hallways or kitchens.
IV	High-strength tiles for rooms and halls with intense load - entrances, shops, public places, offices, etc. There is no point in using it in apartments or private houses.
V	The highest class of abrasive strength, applicable for coatings with extremely high intensity of movement of people and even some types of transport. Scope of application: train stations, large supermarkets, warehouses, industrial premises and so on.

9 – This pictogram indicates that the ceramic tile has undergone a double firing procedure. This material usually has a glossy glazed surface and is more suitable for installation on walls. In addition, double firing technology implies increased porosity of the ceramic, which means a decrease in its mechanical strength and increased water absorption.

10 – The icon in the form of a chemical flask indicates the increased resistance of the tile surface to acids, alkalis, and other aggressive substances, including any type household chemicals. The letter indicator of this material property is “AA”.

11 - If you come across such an icon, then you need to be careful in choosing tiles - there may be tiles of different shades in one box.

12 – Notwhich expensive types of ceramic tiles can be produced with the inclusion of noble metals: silver (Ag), gold (Au) or even platinum (Pt).

Pictograms 13 ÷ 15 inform about the parameters of the factory packaging of ceramic tiles. So, in the example given, symbol 13 indicates that the gross weight of the box is 19.00 kilograms, icon 14 means that one package is enough for 1.42 m² of floor area, and symbol 16 means that there are 24 tiles packed in the box.

Some of the specific properties of the material will be indicated by the pictograms indicated in the table under numbers from 17 to 21. Such ceramic tiles are intended for special conditions operation. These could be train stations And and airports, medical institutions, industrial enterprises, hotels, sports facilities. There is no point in purchasing such tiles for flooring in a private house or apartment.

What other points should not be overlooked:

• If the tiles are planned to be laid on the floor of a bathroom, shower room, kitchen or other room with high humidity, then a material with a minimum (not higher than 3%) water absorption coefficient is required.
• The linear dimensions (length and width) of the tile also matter. Of course, the larger the tile, the faster it can be laid. However, for rooms with a small area and complex floor shapes, oversized tiles will not be suitable - there will be a lot of waste. And large tiles will look somewhat ridiculous in such rooms. In addition, we must not forget that carefully laying large tiles is much more difficult.
• If you purchase several packs of ceramic tiles, you must definitely select the product from the same batch.

This is necessary for two reasons:

— Firstly, even a completely identical model of tile, but from different batches, may have slight deviations in shade. In a store environment, it is quite possible that this will not even be noticeable. However, after laying such a covering on the floor and under normal lighting, such a difference can greatly spoil the intended interior appearance of the room.

Different batches may also differ in calibration - the linear dimensions of the tiles

— Secondly, fluctuations in linear dimensions tiles It is clear that cutting of material in production is carried out under the control of precision electronics. But it still remains ceramic, and there may be small errors, so calibration must be carried out finished products. One batch should always contain tiles of the same calibration, and the difference between different batches can even be several millimeters. When laying such tiles on the floor, especially in large rooms, inconsistencies may occur that are noticeable to the naked eye.

• Be sure to check the packages for broken, cracked or chipped tiles on the surface. Sellers may convince you that marriage is an inevitable phenomenon, and you need to come to terms with it. No, it’s not necessary, you pay your money for a quality product.
• It is generally accepted that a certain reserve should be purchased, 10% more than the area of ​​the room. This will be spent on “cuts” and in cases of compensation for any annoying misunderstandings. It must be remembered that it will not always be possible to buy additional tiles later to make up for the missing quantity - this has already been mentioned when talking about batches.

By the way, if you plan to lay tiles, then the reserve can even be increased slightly - up to 15%. With this technology, it is more difficult to adjust the material along the walls, there is more waste left and, in addition, there is a much higher probability of making some mistakes due to inexperience.

Prices for ceramic tiles

Ceramic tile

How to lay tiles on a concrete floor

The process of tiling a floor with ceramic tiles can be divided into four main stages:

• Preparing the surface for installation.
• Carrying out the necessary markings, drawing up a work plan.
• Laying ceramic tiles with adhesive mortar.
• and finishing works.

Preparing the floor surface for laying tiles

The requirements for the base for laying tiles are, in principle, simple - it must be strong, stable, provide good adhesion to adhesive composition. How is this achieved?

If we are talking about a concrete base, then first it is necessary to carry out a thorough inspection of the old screed on which the tiles are planned to be laid. There is no need to be lazy - you should tap every centimeter of the floor to make sure there are no unstable areas.

• First of all, its horizontalness is checked - if this condition is not met, then pouring a new screed simply cannot be avoided. If the evenness is satisfactory (differences are no more than 2-3 mm), then the old coating can still serve, provided, of course, that it is stable.
• If during a control inspection areas of screed peeling, concrete crumbling, or deep oiling are identified, it is necessary to remove them right down to the “healthy” surface, both in width and depth. Wide cracks and crevices need to be cut to a width of 10 - 15 mm.
• There should be no traces of paint, oil products, fats, or remnants of the old coating on the surface - everything is cleaned off to clean concrete.
• All protrusions in mandatory are cut down - if you can sometimes look at a small depression “through your fingers”, since during the laying process it will still be filled with glue, then even the smallest bump will make even laying simply impossible.
• After this, a thorough cleaning is carried out with dust removal of the surface. In order for the repair suction to adhere well, it is necessary to prime all areas to be repaired and allow the primer to dry completely.
• A repair composition is being prepared - it may be “classic” cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1:3, but it will take quite a long time to dry.

The finished and completely cured screed is also primed twice, after which you can proceed to further work.

Prices for various types of screeds and self-leveling floors

Screeds and self-leveling floors

Marking the floor for laying ceramic tiles

Ceramic tiles should become a decoration of the room, and this will be possible only if their location on the floor is planned correctly. A sloppy, slanted tile can completely decorate an interior.

There are many techniques and methods for placing ceramic tiles on the floor - it is impossible to consider all of them in the scope of this article - this is a topic for a separate publication. But even the simplest, “classic” method requires precision and accuracy.

Starting to plan installation from the wall is very risky, since the slightest defect will grow with each successive row, and it will be very difficult to eliminate it. Therefore, the reference lines and the first rows of tiles are usually located approximately in the center of the room.

The first reference line is usually drawn along the room. To do this, in two places, at the beginning and at the end, carefully measure the distance between opposite walls and mark the midpoints. They are connected by a straight line (usually this is done using a coated cord), and a longitudinal baseline is obtained.

Now you need to draw a second one, perpendicular to the first, also approximately in the middle of the room. It is very important that strict perpendicularity is maintained. In order to avoid mistakes, and this is quite possible when using a square and a ruler, you should definitely check the right angle using the formula of the famous “Egyptian triangle”: 3² + 4² = 5². According to the Pythagorean theorem, it is a triangle with legs divisible by 3 and 4 and a hypotenuse divisible by 5.

For example, we measure 900 and 1200 mm from the intersection point of the legs. We connect the marked points with a segment, and its length should be exactly 1500 mm - no more no less.

Once the lines are drawn and their perpendicularity is checked, you can think about how to place the rows of tiles and where to start the layout. We remember that the drawn reference lines are not at all a “dogma” for starting masonry - it will not be difficult to carry out a parallel transfer from them in any direction.

For example, if the entrance door in a spacious room is located exactly in the center, then you can lay out the first rows of tiles - along the laid reference lines. The principle is this: so that when entering the room, a flat area is presented to the eye, without cuts or adjustments. (see item “a” in the figure).

But in a room with a small area, with the exit shifted to the edge (position “b”), and even possibly having complex shape or stationary obstacles, the start of masonry can be smestyle to a free “patch” - from here it will be much more convenient to work in all directions, but it is the entrance that will turn out to be the “front door”.

In any case, you should never be lazy - you should carry out a control laying of the central longitudinal and transverse rows of ceramic tiles “dry”, without using mortar, but leaving the planned gap between adjacent tiles.

Do not neglect the initial “dry” laying of the tiles - this will allow you to evaluate the options for its location

This simple procedure will allow you to visually assess the future picture, measure distances, and finally decide on the laying scheme, that is, settle on one of the principles:

1 – in a small room, for example, in a bathroom or kitchen, you can take two walls from the entrance (green arrows) as the “starting line”, provided that they are exactly perpendicular. In this case, the entire visible part of the room will be lined with intact tiles, and the cut edges will be hidden under furniture or plumbing equipment.

2 – the laying is carried out from the center in such a way as to place the maximum possible number of whole tiles on the floor, leaving narrow areas for addition with fragments (brown arrows). Beneficial in terms of material savings. However, for reasons of masonry quality, it is advisable to leave areas no narrower than ⅓ of the width of the tiles near the walls.

3 – the arrangement with a minimum number of whole tiles in a row, but with expanded fragments along the walls (blue arrows) looks a little more impressive. This coating looks more complete, and from an operational point of view it is more reliable than No. 2.

4 – laying diagonally – will help hide the curvature of the room. Among the disadvantages is a more complex design, especially in terms of preliminary marking and fitting of tile fragments, more material goes to waste.

If you have decided on this, then you should immediately outline what scheme will be followed work is being carried out– from the far corner to the entrance, or with dividing the space into several areas in straight rows, followed by filling them.

You can also “fill” space in different ways. So, some masters do the styling in an orderly manner. Others prefer the “ladder” scheme with a sequential increase in the number of simultaneously laid rows.

“Filling” the space can be done linearly, or, as shown in the figure, in steps

By the way, there are supporters of laying ceramic tiles on the floor “at random” or even chaotically - sometimes this is included in the design intent of the room decoration. But in an ordinary home, they still prefer to limit themselves to a straight laying pattern, “seam to seam”.

Laying tiles on the floor

• So, we prepare the necessary tools and materials for installation.

— For work you will need spatulas, ordinary, with a width of 100 to 250 mm, and serrated ones, with a height of the created furrow of 8–10 mm. To grout joints, it’s a good idea to get an elastic rubber spatula.

— You will need a construction mixer or a drill with an attachment for mixing tiles and an appropriate container for the same purposes.

— Always have a building level at hand.

— In some cases, you may need to use force to get the tiles into place. It is convenient to use a rubber hammer for this purpose.

— You should immediately think about how the tiles will be cut (more on this below).

— It is necessary to create a stock of calibration crosses required thickness, plastic wedges for height adjustment.

— In order not to carry dirt, you need to have a supply of clean rags and a sponge for wiping the solution from the front surface of the tile.

• Probably, nowadays no one thinks about making tile adhesive on their own - it can always be purchased in the store. When choosing, you need to check the purpose of the composition - in addition to the usual ones, intended for majority interior spaces, there are specialized mixtures, intended for rooms with high humidity conditions, for outdoor use, particularly resistant or for so-called “complex surfaces”, for “warm floor” systems, etc.

The glue is diluted by gradually adding the dry mixture to the amount of water specified in the instructions, with constant stirring using a mixer or drill. The composition should be absolutely homogeneous, without lumps, of a fairly dense consistency - so that the ridges created with a notched spatula do not spread.

After obtaining the consistency of the composition necessary for work, it is left to “ripen” for 5 minutes, then mixed again for 2-3 minutes - and you can begin laying.

You should not prepare too much mortar at once, especially if you have no experience in laying ceramic tiles. Its “life” is limited - this is necessarily indicated in its instructions. If the glue begins to noticeably thicken during work, you will have to throw it away - you cannot dilute it with water a second time - it will lose its qualities.

• Novice craftsmen, apparently having listened to old, irrelevant advice or read about it somewhere, soak the tiles in water before laying them on the floor. In this way they are making a grave mistake.

A similar approach is possible if the tiles are laid on a regular cement-sand mortar, and even then - not in all cases. And all modern building mixtures - adhesives for ceramic tiles - are designed for application specifically to a dry surface. Excess water will significantly reduce the performance of the glue, and the tiles will begin to “dance” and fall off over time.

Therefore, before laying the first tile, carefully read the instructions for using the purchased tile adhesive again - everything is probably indicated there.

• Where to apply the glue - on the floor or on the tiles? There is no consensus on this issue. Some people like to apply it to tiles - the marking lines on the floor remain intact.

On the other hand, it is more convenient to immediately coat a significant area of ​​the floor, and then concentrate on laying out the tiles evenly (of course, if you have some experience, otherwise you may not have time).

Another option is to pre-coat the floor surface with glue.

There is a third tip - coat both here and there, but lay the tiles in such a way that the direction of the ridges made with a notched trowel on the floor and on the tiles is perpendicular - this ensures that all cavities are filled and maximum adhesion is ensured.

• After coating the tile with glue, it is laid on the surface in the right place, pressed tightly to the floor, its location relative to the reference lines is controlled, as well as the horizontalness of its upper plane in the longitudinal and transverse directions.
• The work continues in the same order, with the obligatory installation of calibration crosses - they will allow you to clearly maintain the required gap between the tiles.

When adjusting each tile, be sure to check its horizontalness using a building level. The necessary adjustments are immediately made - adding or removing a solution, inserting a small wedge, etc.

• It is necessary to ensure that there is no excess glue left in the gap between the tiles - this space will be needed to fill the seams. So it is better to remove the glue immediately, as it will be very difficult to do later. Together with that, you should immediately remove mortar stains from the front surface of the tile with a rag or sponge, without allowing them to dry.
• Spacer crosses are left between the tiles until the mortar initially sets. Then, when the tile has already become immobile, the crosses need to be removed - you cannot leave them in the seams until the glue has completely hardened, since then there will be difficulties with removal.

Video: visual lesson on laying tiles on the floor

• Modern devices for quickly laying tiles - the so-called leveling systems - are very convenient to use. The kit includes rack clamps (disposable items) and wedges (can be reused).

— After the first tile is laid on the glue, pressed well and inserted level, two clamps are installed on each of its sides so that their heel goes under the tile. The thickness of the clamp leg will determine the size of the seam. The clamps are installed at a distance of approximately 50 mm from the corner.

Clamp stands installed...

Then the next tile is laid. The wide heel of the clamp also appears underneath it.

...then the next tile is laid...

A wedge is inserted and threaded as far as possible into the clamp, where it is fixed with its ribbed surface on the hooks. It is very important that the wedges are always inserted from the side of the previously laid and leveled tiles.

... the wedges are inserted until they stop and are completely fixed.

— Thus, the lower, even edge of the wedge “pulls” the surface of the next tile ideally into the plane of the already laid one. True, no one can cancel control using a level.

— The wedges should remain in this position until the glue dries completely. Then they are removed with light side blows using a rubber hammer. The design of polymer clamps is such that they can withstand tensile loads, but immediately break off when exposed to a fracture. Below, under the tiles, remain only broken heels.

— Wedges, as already mentioned, can continue to be used, and broken holds can be disposed of.

Video: laying tiles using a tile leveling system

Tile cutting

Previously, we were talking exclusively about laying entire tiles, but in practice there are never cases where everything is limited to this. So now it's time to consider the problem of cutting tiles.

• It is recommended to install the fragments not immediately, but a day later after the main part of the floor. During this time, the glue will have set well, and it will be possible to accurately measure the required dimensions.
• When marking tiles for cutting positions, we must not forget about the joint interval - an allowance must be made for it.
• There are several ways to cut ceramic tiles:

1. The most convenient way is to use a tile cutter, a tabletop tool that gives an even and precise cut. It is enough to place the tile with a marking line along the central protrusion, move the roller away from you with force along the surface of the tile, and then, resting your paws on the surface of the tile on both sides of the drawn line, press the lever down.

The most convenient tool is a tile cutter

With even a little experience of the master, there are practically no defects in such cutting.

2. Manual tile cutter- a fairly convenient tool, but it requires more dexterity from the worker.

First, the roller is drawn along the intended risk line. Then the tile is clamped so that the tile cutter is exactly on top along the axis of the line cutting. Movement with your hands - and the tile should split into two parts.

Cutting is carried out in the same way using regular glass cutter, with the only difference that breaking off is carried out on the edge of the workbench, or with the help of a line placed on the workbench from below cutting metal rod (nail or wire).

With all the advantages of manual and tabletop tile cutters, they allow you to cut tiles exclusively in a straight line.

3. Sander with a diamond disc - this approach is especially good when cutting tiles at an angle or creating complex shapes is required. The main difficulty here is to ensure reliable fixation of the tiles when working with an angle grinder so that they do not fly out or crack.

Tiles can be precisely cut to size using a diamond grinder

The tile can be cut straight through - when parts of a complex configuration are required. If straight, long sections are cut off, then the integrity of the top enamel layer can only be damaged - then it will be easy to break the tile along the intended line.

Particular attention to precautionary measures - the eyes and face must be covered with a mask, so how is it possible scattering of small hot fragments of ceramics.

4. Small areas tiles can be removed using pliers.

In this case, on the area to be removed, it is advisable to apply a fine mesh with a glass cutter roller. Then, using pliers, they carefully break out very small fragments, gradually bringing the tile to the desired size.

If necessary, any minor irregularities remaining after cutting can be removed using a block wrapped in coarse grain (80) sandpaper. If the teeth are large, they can be “corrected” with pliers. If there is a pronounced sharp edge left, then it is better to first process it with a round file.

The process of laying cut fragments, in fact, is no different from what was described above.

When cutting tiles and laying their fragments, special care should be taken. Ceramics can crack not along the intended line, which means there is a high probability of getting a cut injury to your hand when pressed. In addition, the broken edges may have extremely sharp edges that can cause very deep cuts. All work should be performed only with protective gloves.

Sealing seams

After the entire floor area is covered with ceramic tiles, you can proceed to grouting the joints.

• First of all, you need to check the condition of the seams again - they must be cleaned to their entire depth and width.
• Getting ready jointing solution - grout. It can be cement-based or a two-component epoxy composition.

1. IN living conditions Cement grouts are more often used (so-called class WITHG 2 according to EN 13888).

Cement grout for joints

They are sold in stores in the form of hermetically sealed dry mixtures and can have different colors - you can always choose the color that best suits the overall design. They are most often mixed with water to the desired consistency. But for rooms with high humidity or for floors with a high level of load, it is still recommended to use a special latex additive to dilute the composition - the floor surface will only benefit from this.

2. Recently, grouting has been rapidly gaining popularity. epoxy based(class RG according to EN 13888). These are two-component compositions that are prepared immediately before starting work on filling the seams.

The “lifetime” of such a composition is short, so it is prepared in small portions to ensure that it is used before hardening.

Epoxy grouts are more durable, resistant to chemicals, they are much more flexible and will not crack over time. These compositions have a much wider range of shades (including bright, saturated colors), and in addition, many similar grouts are sold with special effects - sparkles, fluorescent glow, etc.

The only significant drawback of epoxy grouts (except for a certain difficulty with proper preparation working staff) is still a very high price, which greatly limits the scope of their use.

• The finished composition is scooped onto a rubber spatula or rubber float and applied with force to the seam area, usually in a direction of 45 degrees from the seam line. This trajectory will ensure the most complete and dense filling of the joint space.

• After the joints are filled, it is necessary to immediately remove the excess mixture from the surface of the tile - this will be much more difficult to do later. Usually this is started when a white coating appears on the grout remaining on the surface of the tile - it begins to dry out (usually after 20 - 30 minutes).

To do this, take a foam sponge, well washed and wrung out, and use it to remove the remains of the fugue. The movements are usually the same as when grouting - 45 degrees to the seam line. At the same time, you must try not to touch the seams, so as not to wash out the fugu from there. The sponge should be washed thoroughly as often as possible, with constant changes of water. By the way, the water plays here double role– it both washes away contaminants and participates in the hydration of the cement composition of the grouting material.

After 3 — After 4 hours, you can rinse the surface again using a foam sponge. Then, when the floor dries after washing, the remaining light cement deposit can be easily removed by wiping the tiles with a dry, clean, soft rag.

After this, the ceramic tiles will already take on their “ceremonial” appearance, and it will be possible to say that the process of laying it is completed.

Prices for grout for joints

Grout for joints

Video: option for grouting joints on a tiled floor

However, if the cladding was carried out in a room with high humidity or with intense loads on the surface, then it is recommended to carry out another simple operation - coat the seams water repellent.

This is done very simply - the composition is generously applied to the seams with a thin brush. This treatment will give the fugue composition water-repellent properties, which will significantly increase the service life of the ceramic coating, prevent dampness from accumulating in these places, and make cleaning easier.

When the water repellent is absorbed and dries, you can put the final order in place. You need to thoroughly rinse the floor with clean water - and we can assume that the entire multi-step process of laying tiles on the floor is over!

Tile materials for interior work are presented on the construction market in a huge range. Each type of demanded raw material has its own characteristics and performance characteristics. The variety of textures, sizes, and manufacturing technologies allows you to use many ways to lay tiles on the floor. Some manufacturers mass-produce whole fragments of companions, which makes it possible to decorate surfaces with an identical pattern. To successfully update the interior and carry out high-quality tile installation, you need to understand the types of materials and follow certain rules during repair work.

Types of floor tiles

All material offered by manufacturers can be divided into two types. These are extruded and pressed options. Separation according to the manufacturing principle is necessary to select the appropriate material for laying in certain conditions. Floor tiles can also have a glazed finish or remain natural.

You can make any room comfortable and unique with the help of the following types tile products:

• Simple ceramic tiles. Due to the colored glass coating, the elements receive additional hardness. Available unglazed and with an additional layer of enamel. It has many shades and excellent water resistance.
• Porous. Produced by single firing. Due to the high degree of moisture absorption, it is used only indoors.
• Porcelain tiles. A product with a homogeneous structure based on kaolin and quartz. The outer coating has a glass luster and durable structure. High impact strength and resistance to intense loads allow it to be used for installation in industrial enterprises.
• Metlakhskaya. Unglazed elements are produced by pressing after one firing. A material with high performance properties is used for street and home masonry. The incredible durability of the design is explained by the painting technology - each brick is soaked through with paint.
• Cotto. Dense, effective material, up to 3 cm thick. Enameling is not provided, so the tiles require constant maintenance. To reduce porosity, after installation it is treated with hydrophobic compounds and mastic.
• Clinker room. They are made from several types of clay, binders and dyes. The durable product easily contacts chemical irritants and any natural factors. The universal finish has a uniform texture and unlimited service life.
• Monoccotura. They are often used for decorative finishing and laying out certain patterns, despite the low degree of moisture absorption and dense structure. Monoccotura elements are subject to shrinkage and may differ in size in different batches.

Methods of laying tiles on the floor - technology and features

Laying floor tiles is one of the most popular and rational solutions for renovations. Thanks to the variety of types, sizes, patterns, you can update the floors in any room, on the veranda, in the garage. The material can be laid in different ways. But it is worth considering that working with each type of product has its own nuances. Difficulties may arise in adjusting the elements, their pattern, preparing the base, and the adhesive composition. It is better for novice craftsmen to do the styling according to a simple, standard pattern.

Traditional way

The most common type of laying products on the floor involves their parallel arrangement relative to the base. The elements are tightly packed in even rows. You can create a perfectly even pattern from square or rectangular tiles.

So that the masonry has original look, use tiles of different colors. When carrying out work, it is necessary to lay out long or short parts as evenly as possible, since even the slightest defects will be evident. The traditional method is suitable for seamless ceramics; it is used when laying out coatings in the bathroom, toilet, and kitchen.

With an offset or in a running start

The installation method looks like brickwork. It is often used when decorating indoor floors. Plain rectangular elements laid out with a slight offset will look especially good. This great way disguise floor defects, avoid general monotony.

Interspersed tile laying will create a historical atmosphere in the house. By experimenting when preparing a diagram with dimensions, you can achieve a special pattern that suits a specific room design. Floor tiles are laid only in horizontal rows. Each middle of the elements from the next strip should lie on the junction of the square from the previous row.

To achieve real aesthetic pleasure from the result, offset laying must be done with strict adherence to the thickness of the seams. In the corridor or on the terrace, diagonal masonry will look original. In this case, the tiles are distributed on the surface at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the wall.

Before you start laying tiles, you must determine the floor level. To do this, lay lighthouse slabs in the corners and make a screed. If necessary, level the tiles using a rubber hammer.

Herringbone laying

Rectangular elements of various lengths are suitable for work. The method is quite complicated to implement, but the end result will surprise you with its originality. Herringbone tiles can be laid in two ways. The first will externally resemble parquet; for the second, mosaic inserts or cut pieces of elements of a different color will be additionally used.

The herringbone laying technique involves joining the narrow side of the material to the wide side of another tile to form 90 degree angles. By choosing the right pattern, you can make a durable tiled floor that imitates the pattern of laminate or parquet. This method is used to decorate rooms. irregular shape, since the pattern creates an optical illusion and smoothes out the difference in the size of the room.

The laying pattern can be single - each new tile touches the adjacent one, double - two rectangular tiles in a row, triple - reminiscent of weaving, each row consists of 3 fragments. Arranging the parts diagonally on the floor not only creates a stunning pattern, but also minimizes waste during work.

Modular installation

The simple way is the best option for training in working with floor tiles. A design made from several modules of different sizes looks interesting and original. It will look great in small rooms.

First of all, the installation scheme, module size and pattern are selected. When creating a drawing, it is important to take into account the thickness of the seams, otherwise the entire work will be ruined. To simplify the task, you can immediately purchase a set of tiles with a ready-made map for a certain quadrature.

The basic principle of the method modular installation– a repeatedly repeating heterogeneous pattern. The elements must belong to the same series, but be of different sizes. More often, products are chosen with the same texture, but it is possible to use tiles of different colors. Products marked “modulare” are suitable for modular display.

The "labyrinth" method

The installation method is an artistic one, creating complex drawing on a ceramic floor. The intricate weave formed gives the appearance of a square center being enveloped by several oblong bricks. To enhance the effect, the tiles in the middle should be different in color. Provided that the shades are correctly selected to match the color scheme of the interior, the surface design will look more than good.

To correctly determine the material, it is necessary to lay out one tile pattern at the point of sale, and calculate it on the spot. required amount elements. To choose a combination of flooring shades, you need to take into account certain rules when choosing a material. In darkened rooms without windows, a dark center and a light edge will look better. A pattern formed in this way in the hallway will visually highlight areas of the floor.

Masonry "deck"

For installation, elongated rectangular tiles with a pattern imitating the texture of deck boards are used. Thanks to the variety of ceramic products, most similar to wood materials, you can use any parquet layouts. This particular method involves straight laying with a slight offset.

When installing tiles, the shear length along the entire plane must be maintained the same. Such tiles will look as natural as possible. Layout technology differs from the offset method in the distance of the offset itself. The element from the next row goes to the side not by half of the previous one, but by only a few centimeters, leaving most of the module.

To make the floor visually look like wood, you need to choose rectangular tiles with a structured pattern of natural material. The absence of a glazed surface will make the resemblance as accurate as possible.

Laying using the "carpet" method

A patterned tile carpet is a rather complex way of laying out, despite the existence simple circuits and ornaments. To ensure that the result of the work does not disappoint, it is necessary to carefully select all the elements, their color, size, and quantity. Laying using the carpet technique involves a lot of trimming.

To create a tile pattern, use at least three colors. First a sketch is created. If all dimensions coincide in area with the room, transfer it to transparent pattern paper and mark the prepared surface. Then the tiled cladding is assembled directly on the floor from many simple and shaped parts.

Implement similar projects better in large areas. Any room will be suitable. But a tiled carpet will look better if it is not cluttered with furniture, rugs, flowers, or various floor decor.

Laying method "kaleidoscope"

A great way to create a medieval atmosphere or hide an unsightly slope in a room. The “kaleidoscope” pattern involves elements of the same size, but different in color. If the plane is large, it is better to choose shades from one spectrum; at most you can grab the neighboring ones. The main thing is that the contrast is soft. It is necessary that the proportional quantitative ratio of all tiles be the same. To do this, the total number of participating modules is divided by the number of colors.

For small and medium-sized tiles, another layout option using the kaleidoscope technique is used. You will need to purchase a ready-made tile panel and lay it on the floor. Then the elements from the outermost 3 rows on all sides are swapped and rotated 180 degrees. The edge blur effect will be more noticeable in a small room.

Features of laying tiles on different surfaces

Before you start tiling the floor, you need to study the basic rules and possible combinations of tiles with different surfaces. To lay out ceramics even using the simplest technique, you must have the necessary tools, considerable theoretical knowledge, and skill in working with adhesive mixtures. It is also necessary to provide for all possible negative reactions of the tile and surface upon contact, and options for eliminating errors.

Laying rules and preparation on a concrete base

A concrete surface is an excellent base for tiles. It has a durable, rough structure with high adhesion. But concrete floors can be different, so before starting work you should determine their type. The quality of installation will depend on this. Foam concrete, expanded clay concrete, and polystyrene concrete are taken as the concrete base. Each type of material has its own properties and characteristics. To a greater extent, the final result is influenced by the strength of the base.

Floor tiles should only be laid on a clean and level surface. concrete base. If the subfloor has bulges and depressions, installation will be required cement-sand screed. Working with a defective surface will significantly increase glue consumption. To improve the adhesion of materials, the finished base must be treated with primer. Also, using special solutions, you can protect concrete from mold damage.

Before laying tiles on a concrete base, it is necessary to apply waterproofing, especially if the room will be exposed to moisture. This can be a roll of self-adhesive film or bitumen mastic. The process of laying tiles takes place using special plastic crosses for the seams. The finished adhesive is applied to the concrete and to the lining itself with a notched trowel, the materials are joined and lightly pressed down.

Rules for laying and preparing a wooden base

The only explanation for laying tiles on natural wood– ease of care. Due to the significant difference in the service life of the connecting materials, such a floor can crack within 5 years. If the installation option is unavoidable, you need to carefully approach the choice facing material. These should be elements with a minimum amount of chemical additives.

Preparing the base from the boards consists of leveling it. Leaky wooden elements needs to be replaced. It is very important to treat the surface so that the subfloor is not mobile and susceptible to temperature changes. A special flooring must be installed over the moving wooden base using the dry leveling method. Installation of waterproofing and reinforcement is also required.

Tiles can only be laid on a flat and solid base. If the back of the tile has grooves or other grooved patterns, such as boar tiles, the adhesive strips from the notched trowel should be perpendicular. You can start grouting the joints 3 days after installation.

Selection of adhesive mixture

Compositions for gluing floor tiles can be purchased dry or ready-made. Bulk mixtures require subsequent dilution with water right before laying the material. They are sold in bags and packages. You need to prepare glue at home according to the instructions, strictly observing the proportions. The advantage of using dry mass is the ability to dilute only the required amount of substance for installation, and an affordable price.

Ready-made mixtures are produced in plastic buckets or canisters. They are ready for application and begin to harden upon contact with air. Due to their high cost, they are purchased only if the area needs to be tiled. small area, for repair work of already finished coating. With certain skills, any adhesive mixture can be replaced with cement-sand mortar.

How to calculate the required quantity

Any construction or renovation work begins with the choice of design, selection of material and calculation of its quantity. A large assortment tile, its color, texture makes it difficult to solve such a problem, especially if the floor has non-standard geometry. When making calculations, it is important to know the future size and pattern of the elements.

You can determine the required number of tiles for one room in the following ways:

• By room area. Suitable for single-color, one-dimensional elements. First, determine the area of ​​the room and add 10% to the resulting value to create a supply of material. The final figure is divided by the area of ​​one tile. This method of online calculation is available on many websites of ceramic manufacturers and in special programs.
• When laying diagonally. This installation technique increases the consumption of tiles, so 15% is added to the area of ​​the room.
• By the number of rows. Determine the width, length of the room and the parameters of one tiled part. Then the length of the room is divided by the length of the tile, and the width is dealt with accordingly. The resulting figure is rounded up and a margin is added.
• Piece counting method. They are used when laying floors with expensive coatings and elements of complex panels, since the method gives a minimal error in calculations. Determine the parameters of the room, one tile instance. Then the number of rows and tiles in each is calculated.

How to cut tiles correctly

When laying tiles on the floor, it is often necessary to trim them. To obtain elements of a non-standard shape, to make curly cuts, to reduce the material, they resort to dividing it into parts in various ways. When working with electrical appliances, you must wear a protective apron and gloves. At home, you can cut floor tiles with the following tools:

• Manual tile cutter. Makes straight cuts;
• Electric. Creates holes with straight lines quickly and accurately;
• Jigsaw. Cuts dense tiles into complex trajectories;
• Bulgarian. Creates straight cuts and rectangular holes;
• Manual glass cutter. Copes with thin, porous elements;
• Drill. Special drills and attachments simplify the work of even cutting and making shaped products.

Selecting a mixture for grouting

The cladding will acquire a finished aesthetic appearance if its seams are properly sealed. The final stage of finishing the floor will help hide the resulting defects and protect the cracks from the penetration of dust and moisture. When carrying out grouting work, it is necessary to strictly follow the technology. The choice of material will depend on the size of the gaps.

If the seams between the elements are wide, more than 5 mm, it is better to choose a resin-based mastic for grouting. A small space at the joints must be sealed with moisture-resistant cement-based compounds. Places in contact with the wall must be treated with silicone sealant.

Grouting joints performs not only practical, but also decorative functions. The material of the desired shade can be purchased ready-made or made with your own hands. Pure white grout is used if it is necessary to hide unevenness during installation and other defects. At perfect styling The design of the seams in contrasting colors will look beautiful.

Technology and stages of laying tiles on the floor yourself

The work of laying tiles on the floor takes a long time; the process is divided into several stages. To achieve the best result, you must act carefully, strictly following the rules and technologies. Installation tile materials can only be carried out indoors at permissible temperatures. The optimal mark is + 20 degrees.

Required materials and tools

Installing tiles will not be difficult even for a beginner if you work with high-quality materials. First of all, they calculate the number of elements and buy the cladding. For the kitchen or living rooms, you can take tiles with minimal moisture resistance; for the bathroom, swimming pool, or outdoor terrace, you need an option with improved characteristics. You will also need the following tools for installation:

1. Level;
2. Notched trowel, trowel;
3. Wire cutters;
4. Suitable tile cutter;
5. Special crosses for tiles;
6. Rule;
7. Bulgarian;
8. Rubber spatula;
9. Tile hammer;
10. Roulette;
11. Nylon sponge.

Base preparation and marking

Laying of floor tiles is carried out on an exceptionally level base. First, the old floor is removed and construction garbage and dust. Then they check the serviceability of communications. If there are old concrete baseboards, you should get rid of them.

Before starting work, you must make sure that the surface meets all the specified requirements. If unevenness is found, they can be leveled with a screed. On next stage treat with a primer. You can choose any penetrating composition suitable for the type of base.

Experts recommend starting laying tiles from the center, and not from the walls, as this can minimize the likelihood of errors. To mark the floor, it is better to use a laser level. With its help, you can draw fairly accurate lines without moving the device.

The axis line is drawn first, then the central points of the two walls are determined - with the entrance door and the opposite one. Connect them straight line. Then a perpendicular line is drawn through the center. Now you can make support transfers to the remaining sectors of the floor. Before installing the elements with glue, a test laying is done.

Preparation of the adhesive composition

Correctly selected and diluted composition is a guarantee of high-quality installation, eliminating displacement. First of all, good adhesion depends on proper kneading. An insufficiently mixed, thick mixture is difficult to distribute over the surface, it will take more time to finish, and the glue will dry unevenly.

To mix dry mixture at home, you will need two buckets - one empty, the other with water, dry tile adhesive, and a construction mixer. Pour 2 liters of water into an empty container, add the amount of dry glue corresponding to the instructions, lower the mixer into the mixture and mix at the lowest speed. You can achieve the required consistency by adding liquid or powder mixture. For the solution to become homogeneous and plastic, it needs to stand for 10-15 minutes.

Laying process and working with crosses

When the surface is prepared and the adhesive solution has settled, you can begin laying the tiles on the floor. The glue is applied to the base and smoothed well with a notched trowel. The size of the grater for making grooves is selected in accordance with the parameters of the tile. If installation is carried out according to markings, it is better to apply a lot of glue at once so as not to cover the drawn lines. In the same way, a paste-like composition is applied to the tile elements. But straightening with a notched trowel should be perpendicular to the pattern on the base. This will allow no air voids to be left during docking.

In order for the tile to hold better when applied to the base, it is pressed and simultaneously moved in different directions. If necessary, ceramic parts can be tapped with a rubber hammer. It is necessary to continuously monitor the level of coverage, especially when adding new elements.

At facing works Plastic crosses are placed in each tiled floor. They are clamped between the dies to maintain an identical distance between them. They will remain there until the glue dries completely.

Grouting joints - technique for applying the mixture

To give new tiled surface finished appearance and protect the concrete base from influence external factors, grout the joints. To do this, use special mixtures intended for finishing tiled surfaces.

The voids between the elements can be filled with white, gray or multi-colored material. Powdered mixtures are diluted with water, and a bright pigment is added if necessary. Then the mixture is well kneaded and applied with a small rubber spatula, trying to completely fill the entire gap. The excess mass must be removed immediately before it dries out. If grouting is carried out over a large area, it is better to use a special trowel to distribute the thick mass.

Final cleaning of tiles before use

After all installation and grouting work, the floor tiles can be prepared for use. The mixture for finishing joints must be removed no later than 30 minutes after its application, otherwise it will harden and you will have to use a spatula or aggressive chemicals to remove it.

After the grout has hardened, a final wash can be applied. If the mixture was liquid, you need to wait for it to dry completely. You can remove dust and small splashes of the solution with a damp sponge or a simple dry cloth. Thoroughly mopping a newly laid floor is not recommended. You can move the elements and increase the drying time of the glue.

When choosing a material, you must carefully study the characteristics of each type of tile. They must meet the needs of the owners. It is necessary to take into account the degree of strength, thickness, and the need for a glazed coating.

The texture of floor tiles should be moderate. Slight ribbing will prevent slipping. If the patterns and grooves protrude too much, this may make cleaning difficult. The gloss will highlight even the slightest dirt.

It is better to dilute the adhesive composition for installing tiles in small portions. If unforeseen circumstances arise and the installation process slows down, it will not be able to dry. Only cold water is used for mixing. Hot liquid will deteriorate the quality of the adhesive solution.

The material can only be laid on a flat, clean floor, door frames and the baseboard needs to be removed. It's easier to work along guide lines. The resulting gap between the outer row of tiles and the wall can be hidden with a plinth or you will have to glue a ceramic strip.

Conclusion

Manufacturers of ceramic tiles recommend starting installation work by developing a detailed plan. First of all, you need to select a design and a suitable caliber of products. It is necessary to take into account the geometric features of the room, the level of lighting, and the degree of mechanical load. Thanks to the huge assortment, variety of types, formats, installation can be carried out using any scheme you like.

Flooring plays a big role in the interior of any room, so its choice must be approached very carefully. The range of coatings offered for sale is quite wide; choose any certain material necessary taking into account the characteristics and purpose of each specific room being finished.

The floors in the living room, children's room or bedroom are ideally covered with linoleum, carpet, laminate or parquet boards.

For rooms that are characterized by increased pollution, humidity, and traffic, for example, a hallway, kitchen area or bathroom, tiled flooring is the best choice.

Advantages of tiles

Tile is a type of flooring that is very durable, making it ideal for finishing rooms that are subject to increased wear and tear.

In addition, ceramic tiles have a number of advantages:

• resistance to mechanical damage;
• simplicity and unpretentiousness of care;
• impact resistance;
• resistance to corrosion, temperature changes;
• chemical resistance;
• moisture resistance;
• naturalness, it contains only natural components that are safe for humans;
• rich palette of shades, variety of textures.

You can verify the variety of color and texture solutions of this floor covering by looking at numerous photos of floor tiles. They will show how truly original and aesthetically pleasing this finishing option looks in a wide variety of interiors.

Cons of ceramics

High thermal conductivity. Because of this property, the floors will be constantly cool, especially during the cold season. This drawback can be easily eliminated by installing a “warm floor” system under the tiles on the floor in the hallway, kitchen or bathroom.

Hardness. This disadvantage can be significant for families with small children; if the tiles fall, it will increase the likelihood of damage to the children.

High price.

Even a person with no experience can install a tiled floor with his own hands. Therefore, if you are planning to install ceramic flooring in your home, do not be afraid, study several detailed instructions, master classes, prepare necessary tools and get to work.

How to choose tiles

When buying tiles, you need to have a minimum set of knowledge in order to freely navigate and understand the range offered. From the huge variety, it is important to choose an option that will be perfect for each specific case.

When choosing tiled flooring, be sure to pay attention to such parameters as:

Size. Large tiles, for example, 50 or 60 cm, are suitable for flooring in rooms larger than 6 square meters. For narrow small rooms It is better to purchase medium-sized squares - 30 or 40 cm.

Texture. Depending on the purpose of the room, the surface of the tiles should vary. It is better to choose structured tiles for the bathroom floor, this will prevent slipping.

For the kitchen, it is advisable to focus on tiles with a glazed surface, this will facilitate wet cleaning in the room.

Material of manufacture. Tile made from stone or stone chips is best suited for non-residential premises, since it is much cooler than other types of tiles. Ceramic or granite are perfect for laying floors in apartments and houses, on terraces and verandas.

When choosing a tiled floor covering, be sure to follow the product labeling. Models with a footprint on the packaging are suitable for these purposes. It is important not to confuse floor tiles with wall or ceiling views.

Tile floor design

The variety of types of floor tiles is amazing. All kinds of colors, images, patterns, ornaments, textures - you can easily choose exactly the design of floor tiles that is necessary for finishing each specific room.

Kitchen

Most often, tiles are found in the kitchen interior. Popular colors of ceramics used to decorate these rooms are brown, gray, dark blue, and beige tones.

By moving away from bright colors and large-scale patterns on the surface, you can visually expand the space. It is possible to lay tiles with a discreet, barely noticeable pattern or ornament.

Bath

The next most popular place where tiles are used as flooring is the bathroom. There are a huge number of color options for tiles in this room, from delicate white and pink shades to elegant black tones.

You can purchase floor ceramics to match the color of the walls; you can stay true to the classics and choose white, pastel, light, and brown shades.

Hallway

And finally, often the floors in hallways and corridors are finished with tiles. These rooms are constantly exposed to pollution, as they are in close proximity to street dust and dirt, so they really need a wear-resistant, unpretentious and easy-to-care floor covering, which is tile.

As for its design, you can choose any shades, but preferably not very light ones. The unobtrusive pattern looks great on the tiles in the hallway, an interesting transition between different types tiles A tiled covering with a diamond-shaped pattern will look original.

Panel in the living room

If we consider rarer, non-standard options for using tiles, we can highlight their use as original panel on the floor in the living room, made of ceramics with silk-screen printing or imitation of luxurious carpeting.

This unusual technique can be repeated in the bedroom, not forgetting to equip a section of the tiled floor with a heating system.

If you are thinking about installing a tiled floor in your apartment, have no doubt that the tiles will look stylish and modern in any interior, additionally ensuring the strength, wear resistance and safety of the floor covering.

Photo of floor tiles

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