A balcony is not only a decoration of any home and a comfortable seating area, but also a great place to store small household items. Repairing a balcony slab or strengthening it requires knowledge of the construction of the wall of the building itself, and also depends on the material that was used in the construction of the house.
The main types of plates used for the balcony and their features
A balcony is a slab that protrudes some distance from the wall of a building. For security reasons, it is fenced with railings around the perimeter. A balcony is a structure that includes a horizontal base plate, fixtures and railings.
To date, there are several types of balcony slabs, which differ in design:
Many believe that all slabs are a continuation of the overlap, but this is not entirely true. When building a balcony, a wide variety of fastening methods are used:
- Use of additional support. Mounted on the ground floor, as it requires an external steel, reinforced concrete or wooden support fixed on the ground;
- Pinching in the structure of the wall of the house. A cantilever plate is used;
- Suspension to the bearing walls of the balcony platform;
- AT frame buildings support rests on the console internal walls or columns. In this case, there is no load on the wall.
- In panel-type houses, for example, in Khrushchev, balcony slabs are used with ceilings and based on reinforced concrete structures.
- Installation in a brick building is carried out by pinching in the facade of the house. Overhead and underlay elements made of reinforced concrete are immured into it. They form a niche for the stove. The edge that adjoins the wall is thickened. A fairly large entry into the wall of the building is required. It must be welded with steel anchors to reinforced concrete elements.
The main reasons for the destruction of the balcony
As practice shows, the main reason why balconies collapse is depressurization of joints and violation of waterproofing. As a result, moisture enters the room, forming condensate, from which mold appears.
In addition, moisture can act on reinforced concrete, penetrating into it and causing corrosion on the reinforcement. The age of concrete is directly related to the permeability of water. - the older it is, the easier it is for moisture to penetrate inside. Reinforcement that has undergone corrosion loses its bearing capacity and expands, which causes a deterioration in the bearing capacity of concrete.
Also, the destruction of the base of the balcony is caused by high pressure on the plate, sudden changes in temperature and a long absence of capital and current repair, as, for example, in Khrushchev.
The reasons for the destruction of balconies can be errors made during installation. These include: the presence of a reverse slope of the plates, the absence of drips and drains in the lower part concrete slab and the absence of protective screens protecting the slab from moisture penetration.
There are 2 stages of destruction of the base of the balcony:
- The first includes minor destruction, when it is necessary to strengthen the slab. Such destruction is found in houses whose age is approaching 40 years. You can do it yourself, as this is a minor repair. For example, in cases of shedding corners.
- The second stage is the destructive appearance of the object. These include the collapse of part of the balcony, the appearance of cracks at the junction with the wall, open areas reinforcement, destruction is observed in the upper layer of the platform or delamination in its lower part.
Who should repair the stove
Due to the fact that in regulations it is not spelled out what the balcony is (living area or part of the supporting structure), it is impossible to clearly answer the question of who to contact and who is responsible for the repair. AT ideal balcony slab should replace and reinforce Management Company, but the railing and parapet are the owner of the apartment himself. However, it is not possible to answer the question with accuracy at whose expense the repair is carried out. On this basis, disagreements very often arise between the tenants of the apartment and the managing organization.
If the fact of destruction of the integrity of the plate was noticed, then an application should be written to the management company. This document is signed by a specialist and recorded in the appropriate journal. A good reinforcement of your words will be an application in the form of several photos of the destroyed balcony. Neighbors who live down the floor must leave their signatures on the relevant application. next step will decide how to proceed. You can wait for utilities, or you can do the repairs yourself or with the help of construction teams. In the latter case, an estimate is needed in order to receive a recalculation of the rent in the future. In the event that none of the options suits you, you can safely go to court.
Balcony restoration stages
In order to do repairs with your own hands, for example, in Khrushchev, you need to know in what order and what to do.
- The first step will be preparation for repair - clean the balcony of debris, remove all extra items remove crumbled concrete.
- Bare parts of the fittings must be cleaned of rust. The first layer is easy to remove, but the lower ones need to be processed. special tool.
- The mesh of reinforcement is attached to the slab with dowels. So that it lies without protrusions in a concrete screed, a small gap is left between the mesh and the slab. Formwork boards are fixed around the entire perimeter of the board.
- Next, you need to prepare a solution consisting of cement and sand, which will be poured onto the reinforcement. In the future, the screed is covered with cement and overwritten, that is, “hardened”. It is important to remember that the thickness of the screed exceeds the thickness of the mesh by two or more times.
- The surface below should be treated with a primer and plastered a little later.
If the reinforcing cage has undergone more corrosion, strengthening the slab will be the best way out. Here it is necessary to carry out a set of preparatory measures.
- The first step is to install on the sides of the platform steel beams and fix them to the wall with a console. Weld a mesh to them and start pouring concrete, the process of which was described above.
- Finishing repair work surface should be waterproofed. For this purpose, materials of coating or roll types are suitable.
Conclusion
So, if the repair is done by hand, you should remember that this is not an easy task. This largely depends on the degree of destruction of the balcony. Some things you can do yourself, and some things you can entrust to professionals. construction teams. In order not to be mistaken, it is recommended to carefully check the degree of wear of a particular element. If there is no experience in this matter, then it is better to contact an appraiser.
Today we will talk about how to properly operate balconies and what should be permissible load to the balcony.
According to Gosstroy Decree No. 170 “On approval of rules and regulations technical operation housing stock”, littering, pollution, misuse, as well as placement of bulky and heavy things on balconies and loggias, unauthorized installation of balconies, loggias, and development of inter-balcony space are not allowed.
When emergency state balconies and loggias, it is necessary to close and seal the entrances to them, conduct security work and take steps to restore them.
To prevent leaks and freezing at the junction of walls and filling window (balcony) openings along the perimeter of window (balcony) boxes, there should be sealing and insulation (felt, tow, foam rubber, etc.) with compression by 30 - 50%.
In order to save fuel and improve the temperature and humidity conditions of the premises, window (balcony) openings should be equipped with sealing gaskets, preferably made of polyurethane foam (foam rubber), which must be replaced at least once every 5 years.
Do not forget about the appearance of balconies (loggias). metal fences, black steel plums, and flower boxes should be periodically painted with weatherproof paints. The color of the paint must correspond to that specified in the color passport of the facade.
The location, shape and fastening of flower boxes must comply with the accepted project and architectural solution building. Flower boxes should be installed on pallets, with a gap of at least 50 mm from the wall; if the project does not provide for special external fasteners, the boxes should be installed with inside railings for balconies (loggias).
If the balcony is glazed, the windows must be painted once every 5 years.
In a number apartment buildings balconies or loggias equipped with an external staircase, connecting balconies or loggias floor by floor, are emergency exits.
Doors leading to stairs must not have locks or other locks from the outside. In addition, balconies or loggias through which evacuation is carried out should not be glazed.
It is also not allowed to clutter loggias or balconies with household items (furniture, containers, etc.).
Special attention should be paid to the possible load on the balcony, since many residents of our country use it as a storage room. In accordance with SNiP 2.01.
07-85 "Loads and impacts", the band uniform load on a section 0.8 m wide along the balcony railing should be 400 kg/m2. Over the entire area of the balcony slab - 200 kg / m2.
The horizontal load on the handrails of the balcony railings is 30 kg/m2.
How to calculate the load on the balcony slab?
If we rely on the data of SNiP "Loads and Impacts", then the maximum load along the edge of the balcony (a strip 0.8 m wide) will be - 400 kg / m2, i.e. stress on running meter edges of the balcony - 320 kg / r.m. Standard design load - 112 kg / r.m. But each series of the house can have its own indicators!
Specifically, I don't know! But in any case - no more!
In your version - on the blind part of the balcony (side walls) the load will be about 240 kg / m.p. when using slotted bricks and 340 kg / m.p. when using a solid brick. I wonder how to seal a slotted brick on the edge? Plastering! And the weight of the plaster! The front wall with a double-glazed window will give a load of about 180 kg / m.p. (solid brick per 1 m height).
Hopefully outdoor and interior decoration will be light, for example - siding!
This means that you do not reach the maximum load, it seems to be good! But you significantly exceed the standard load. This is already bad! Your house is not very new. Depreciation is probably more than 30%, which means that the bearing capacity of the balcony slab is also reduced. Approximately, by 30%. True, and built with a margin! But with what, and how was it built?
You can hope you get lucky! And if not?
Generally you need to do technical survey balcony! Better use lighter materials. Double-glazed window with bottom deaf sandwich,
light insulated partitions, etc.
Each time, before making a decision to weld a balcony with a questionable slab, I suggest that the client load the balcony slab, of course, having previously studied its wear. Gradually loading the plate up to 300 kg per sq.m.
AT normative document SNiP 2.01.
07-85* "Loads and impacts" given the allowable loads on various structural elements buildings, including balcony slabs. Standard values of uniformly distributed live loads on floor slabs, including balcony ones, are given in Table 3 of this standard (clause 3.5, SNiP 2.01.07-85*).
Position 10 of Table 3 indicates that the standard load values for balconies and loggias, taking into account the load, are:
a) strip uniform in a section with a width of 0.8 m along the balcony or loggia railing - 4.0 kPa (400 kgf / m²)
b) continuous uniform on the area of a balcony or loggia, the impact of which is not more favorable than that determined by position 10a - 2.0 kPa (200 kgf / m²)
According to SNiP 2.01.
07-85 * load-bearing elements of ceilings, roofs, stairs and balconies (loggias) are checked by concrete goods manufacturers for a concentrated vertical load applied to the element in an unfavorable position on a square site with sides no more than 100 mm (in the absence of other temporary loads). At the same time, the values of standard concentrated loads, if higher ones are not provided for in the construction assignment based on technological solutions, should be taken as follows (clause 3.10, SNiP 2.01.07-85 *):
for floors and stairs - 1.5 kN (150 kgf);
for attic floors, coatings, terraces and balconies - 1.0 kN (100 kgf).
The value of the payload, such as equipment and people, is determined by the purpose of the building and room. For a residential building apartment, the payload is 150 kgf/m².
To calculate the value of the totality of loads acting on the balcony slab, it is necessary to multiply the weight of the floor and the payload by the reliability factors:
g f - load safety factor (floor weight - g f \u003d 1.2 and payload of an apartment in a residential building - g f \u003d 1.3); g n - safety factor for the purpose of the building (residential and public buildings- g n \u003d 0.95, one-story residential buildings - g n \u003d 0.9).
However, you need to keep in mind the degree of deterioration of the balcony, which is determined by the table of this document, as well as the wear of the walls, which are determined according to the document DEPARTMENTAL BUILDING NORMS VSN 53-86 (R) "RULES FOR ASSESSING THE PHYSICAL WEAR OF RESIDENTIAL BUILDINGS" (APPROVED BY THE ORDER OF THE GOSSTROY OF THE USSR DATED DECEMBER 24 1986 N 446)
Laying a parapet from a foam block on a loggia
When glazing a loggia plastic windows in most cases, it is necessary to make the masonry of the parapet and side walls-partitions from foam blocks or hollow (lightweight) bricks. Let's look at cases where the use of foam block masonry on loggias is mandatory. We will also consider the advantages of masonry made by LOGIA.RU specialists
8 advantages of our masonry:
The foam block masonry is additionally reinforced by us with metal mortgages in the side reinforced concrete / brick walls of the loggia - this gives high stability masonry! Foam block masonry over 3 meters long in a straight line is additionally reinforced by us in each seam metal mesh(photo>>) and/or metal fittings> 10 mm in diameter - this gives high rigidity masonry and is strictly necessary so that the masonry does not sway and does not have free movement. The foam block masonry on each loggia attached to the room, regardless of its length and location (number of floors), is additionally reinforced by us in each seam with a metal mesh and / or metal rebar > 10mm diameter! This is strictly necessary to ensure and improve your safety! Masonry is made of high-density foam block D600 - which means that the density foam concrete block equal to 600 kg/m3. The foam block brand D600 refers to the structural and heat-insulating type of foam concrete, i.e. is a heat-insulating class material and is intended for the construction bearing walls(strength class - B2.5 and higher). The foam block of this brand has a frost resistance coefficient of F15-F35, which makes it possible to use it in our winter conditions. The acoustic properties of such a foam block are such that sound is absorbed in it without being reflected, unlike walls made of heavy concrete or brick. They are especially good at absorbing low noise frequencies, which is very important for apartment owners whose windows and balconies overlook noisy car avenues. Due to the long internal maturation, the thermal insulation and strength characteristics of the foam block only improve over time. The foam block masonry is additionally protected from atmospheric precipitation by installing plastic siding / sheets and corners made of galvanized straight or corrugated steel / asbestos-cement sheets with additional processing all joints and junctions with silicone or polyurethane one-component low-temperature sealant. Foam block masonry in winter conditions is made by us to minus 10 ° C using a specialized anti-frost additive (potash). The freezing point of the solution saturated with this additive is minus 37 ° C, which allows the solution to dry in the cold, and not harden! The reliability of the masonry depends on the quality of the assembly mixture used for block joints. We use a strictly factory-made mixture of the M200, M300 brands. The parapet is laid in compliance with the horizontal and vertical levels, which is necessary for the subsequent installation of glazing and work on the insulation and finishing of the loggia.
Foam block parapet laying is necessary when:
a metal parapet was initially installed on the loggia, on which plastic windows cannot be installed - in this case, we lay the parapet from the foam block parallel to the metal parapet
a reinforced concrete parapet was initially installed on the loggia, which is in the air and attached to the walls using metal plates / corners and welded joints - in this case, we lay the parapet from the foam block parallel to the reinforced concrete parapet
between your and neighboring loggias there is a metal shield-partition made of asbestos-cement sheet. The partition is dismantled and in its place a floor-to-ceiling partition wall is erected from the foam block (in this case, it is desirable to obtain the consent of the neighbor)
the level of the concrete parapet and the upper ceiling (i.e. the ceiling of the loggia) does not match in vertical level. In this case, thanks to the laying of the parapet from the foam block, it is possible to obtain an accurate window opening, and after PVC mounting- windows to avoid freezing and water flow to the loggia.
It's important to know! The laying of the parapet and side walls-partitions is carried out by us mainly from foam block and extremely rarely from lightweight ceramic brick. Depending on the permissible load on concrete floor loggias (SNiP 2.01.07-85 load and impact) a foam block or lightweight brick is used.
We recommend using a foam block, because. foam block masonry is much lighter than ceramic brick masonry. For comparison: weight 1 sq.m. walls made of single ceramic hollow brick is over 160kg, while the weight of 1 sq.m. walls made of foam concrete D600 is no more than 70kg! The difference is obvious.
When performing masonry from foam block prerequisite is the creation additional protection from weather conditions, namely from direct moisture on the foam block itself. To do this, we install foam block protection on the parapet. At the same time, in order not to stand out from the general mass of loggias on the facade of the house, we offer several options for protecting the foam block from the street.
The most common option for standard series houses is the lining of the parapet with a straight or corrugated sheet of galvanized steel. Sometimes plastic siding is used. Steel sheet fastened to the parapet with metal rivets, and each joint is treated with silicone sealant.
Also a common solution in many series of houses is the installation of an asbestos-cement (aceid) sheet on the parapet as protection for the foam block. Sheets of asbestos cement in this case are bolted to the metal parapet.
In some cases, on loggias with metal parapets, it is possible (necessary) to strengthen the support stability for the load under plastic glazing. In this case, on the main metal parapet of the loggia, additional horizontal and vertical reinforcing elements made of metal corner> or professional pipes >.
We also offer and carry out the option without laying the parapet with a foam block - this is the glazing of the loggia with plastic windows from floor to ceiling. It is important to correctly calculate the design of windows using an intensifying, expanding (additional) profile and temperature compensators.
Most of all, such glazing is installed in modern monolith-brick houses with shared facades.
It's important to know! When carrying out masonry work, you should know and remember that the construction of masonry directly on the parapet itself in order to reduce the opening is a prohibited type of work. This not only distorts the architectural appearance of the building, but is also unacceptable in terms of permitted loads on the loggia floors (SNiP 2.01.07-85 loads and impacts)! Here are some examples:
It should also be understood that the installation and masonry work on the loggias should be trusted to professionals in this field.
Sources:
http://www.lodjiya.ru/artlpages.php?id=74
Source: http://pilorama-lp.ru/nagruzka-na-balkon/
How much weight can a balcony in a panel house withstand: how much can a balcony slab withstand
Almost every apartment has a balcony or loggia. The difference between a balcony and a loggia is that the slab on which the whole structure rests protrudes above the facade of the house, while the loggia is a kind of niche, i.e. does not go beyond it.
The structural feature of the balcony is such that three of the four sides monolithic slab are not supported, and this presents a potential danger of collapse due to high blood pressure. This fact should make the owners think about the maximum load on the balcony slab.
You can enumerate many situations when it is important to consider the maximum weight of the load. Moreover, violation of SNiP may result in an administrative fine.
Rice. 1 The maximum load on the balcony is 200 kg/m2
How do you know if the balcony will withstand the new sheathing?
Why is it important to know how much load a concrete slab can withstand? First of all, for the safety of yourself and those around you. There will always be an example when a collapsed balcony slab caused a human tragedy, caused a great material damage, falling on someone's car or downstream infrastructure.
Even relatively new houses built 10-20 years ago have load limits, even if the builders used reinforcement of the balcony slab.
And what can we say about Khrushchev, over 60 years old? Many old houses have an emergency status, this implies a constant risk of an accident when the balcony slab may not even support its own weight.
Under such circumstances, it is pointless to calculate the balcony slab.
AT daily practice to find out how much weight the balcony can withstand, you need:
- during repair, glazing, insulation. sheathing;
- when you intend to install wooden / plastic windows;
- when using it as a greenhouse, winter Garden, the only / additional pantry, storing old unnecessary things there;
- are going to combine a balcony with a room, keep pieces of furniture there, household appliances.
In the case of combining a balcony with a room / kitchen, to determine whether the balcony will withstand the expected load or not, the BTI employee may require when agreeing on the redevelopment with the combination of premises. It is necessary to find the exact technical data of the passport of a residential building when developing a project.
All plans related to the need to keep there a large number of things must be consistent with the technical parameters of the balcony slab. It should be borne in mind that the load capacity of the plate, which is about 1800 kg, and the permissible load are not identical concepts. There are many nuances here.
Main technical parameters of balcony slabs
The maximum allowable load on the balcony is indicated by SNiP 2.01.07-85 with the calculation of a kilogram per square meter. So, at the panel / brick house In normal operating condition, the maximum load is 200 kg/m2.
Total, on average panel house balcony slabs are able to withstand about 0.72 tons.
Rice. 2 When calculating the load, we take into account the weight of the cladding, glazing and precipitation
But this does not mean at all that you can immediately place heavy furniture and household appliances there with a total weight of more than 700 kg. It is important to consider other parameters:
- the degree of wear (age) of the structure;
- presence / absence of glazing;
- weight of sheathing, insulation;
- scheme of the apartment, the location of the balcony (corner / front);
- the weight of possible precipitation (snow, rainwater).
The maximum load on the balcony, taking into account the weight of all structures (they include windows, transoms, wooden / plastic trim used by the owners individually for insulation and decoration) can be reduced by 100-150 kg.
It is also important to provide for the possibility of precipitation in winter in the form of snow, which can weigh up to 200 kg. In total, it becomes even easier to determine how much furniture / appliances can be stored, how much weight a balcony can withstand.
We subtract from the received 720 kg the weight of windows, sliding window structures, sheathing, precipitation, we get 370 kg.
Do not forget to take into account that people will periodically enter the balcony, so we take the weight of three more people up to 80 kg, this will further reduce the load by 240 kg. Total for storage of personal belongings, equipment, furniture, plants, various materials we have 130 kg left.
And this is if we take a new panel house as a standard. For Khrushchev, the maximum possible load can be up to 50-80% less than what we calculated for the panel, i.e. 360-576 kg.
Considering the state of emergency, dilapidated balcony slabs, it is easy to understand: some balconies are not only not suitable for storing things, but are simply dangerous. You can’t be on them, go to the edge of the slab, because. there is always the possibility of collapse.
Remember, the load on the edge of the balcony will always be slightly higher according to the law of physics. Moreover, the thickness of the balcony slab in Khrushchev may be less than the panel one.
Rice. 3 In emergency houses, it is simply dangerous to go out onto the balcony
Important! The load on the loggia is not calculated as for the balcony, due to structural differences. Since the loggia is, in fact, part of the main floor slab of the house structure, the same SNiP standards apply there.
Maximum load on a balcony slab: how much can a balcony in a panel house withstand? Link to main post
Any work related to the redevelopment of a balcony or apartment must comply with SNIP. This is a summary sanitary norms that determine the safety of housing operation. They set all the necessary standards depending on the type of structure. Indeed, for example, a balcony slab will be different, given the brick house, panel or Khrushchev.
Balcony slab can withstand a certain weight. A panel house has its own norms of SNIP, Khrushchev and a brick house have their own. Consider the basic provisions regarding the load. This information will be useful in deciding the overhaul of the balcony, as well as its insulation.
In order to calculate how much weight the balcony can withstand, you need to start from some indicators. Let's see how much the weight of materials for repair, decoration and insulation can be. To do this, take the load capacity of the balcony in 1770 kg.
Simultaneous weight loads can be divided into several main points:
- 240 kg - 3 people with an average of 80 kg of weight;
- household appliances, utensils, linen, etc. - 175 kg;
- atmospheric load. For example, not yet drained rainwater, snow, ice - 200 kg.
It must be said that the minimum coefficient of strength in an open structure is 2. When enclosed spaces that are not affected environment, it will be less - 1.5. It turns out that in open form the balcony experiences a load in our case according to the maximum indicators - 615 kg, and taking into account its coefficient before glazing, the load is 922.5 kg. It turns out that there is a load margin of up to 847.5 kg for finishing and other materials. Now let's look at necessary materials glazing and their weight.
A standard balcony in a panel house will require 6 blocks of PVC profiles with 2-chamber double-glazed windows. Each of them weighs about 80 kg, which means that the total weight is 480 kg. As a result, there will be a reserve of 367.5 kg. This is despite the fact that in any case there should be a reserve of at least 100 kg. It turns out, on Decoration Materials remains 267.5 kg. This is not so much, especially considering that one square meter facing tiles, for example, weighs from 20 to 25 kg. Therefore, before planning repairs on the balcony, it is very important to clearly calculate the load that the balcony slab can withstand, the features of the type of buildings (panel house, Khrushchev, brick house, etc.), the total load.
Plate insulation
Without insulation of the balcony slab, a major overhaul, in fact, does not make sense. But insulation should also be calculated based on the loads. Moreover, a brick house has differences in design than a panel house with more than 5 floors. So let's take a look at the most best options balcony insulation.
If the balcony slab is not too damaged, reinforcement with metal mesh is sufficient. After its installation, the floor is poured expanded clay concrete composition. It is necessary to calculate the amount of the mixture so that the mesh remains in the middle between the entire thickness of the fill.
If the slab is very badly damaged, it is cleaned of debris, then, after applying the reinforcing mesh, it is processed special composition. Before pouring, a wooden formwork is made. After all the procedures, a screed is performed, after which a penetrating waterproofing is applied, and then a light liquid cement mortar is applied.
In cases where the slope of the concrete slab is more than 10 degrees, an additional layer of screed is performed, which levels the surface to the desired level.
strengthening
Often it is necessary to carry out not only work on the insulation of balconies, but also on strengthening. For this, a special stand strut is used. This option, alas, is not suitable for Khrushchev, since there the maximum height is 2.4-2.5 meters. Such manipulation is done in houses with high level ceilings.
Strengthening is also possible by welding special overhead jibs to the reinforcement. This procedure is performed by punching strobes in the wall; they are made along the perimeter of the concrete slab. The cracks and the resulting grooves are sealed with frost-resistant concrete. Just two jibs are enough to securely strengthen the structure.
It turns out that the overhaul on the balcony must be approached with maximum composure. The plate does not withstand too large loads, which means that the quantity and quality of materials should be selected based on the consumer need for using the premises, as well as the possible load margin, along with the already existing indicators. Then, with the right calculation, the repair will be done properly, the room is strengthened and insulated, which means it will last for many years.
The balcony is a decoration of any home, as well as an excellent area for relaxing and doing small chores. Strengthening and repair of the balcony slab on the wall structure of the building has its own characteristics and depends on the material of the building itself.
Features of fixing balcony slabs
People who are ignorant of construction believe that the balcony slab is a ledge of the floor slab. This is far from true. In construction, a wide variety of methods for attaching a balcony slab are used:
- clamping or pinching in the structure of the outer wall of the building;
- the use of cantilever floor slabs;
- leaning on consoles of columns or consoles of internal walls (in frame buildings);
- suspension of a balcony slab to internal load-bearing transverse walls or to a ceiling;
- leaning on attached reinforced concrete, steel or wooden structures.
AT brick buildings strengthening of the balcony slab is carried out by pinching. Reinforced concrete overhead and underlay elements are immured into the outer wall of the building, which form a niche for the balcony slab. adjacent to outer wall the edge of the plate must be thickened. In cases with brick houses the entry of the balcony slab into the wall is quite large. The slab must be welded to reinforced concrete elements using steel anchors.
In panel-type houses, balcony slabs are supported by reinforced concrete structures using overlays. Strengthening the balcony slab in frame buildings is carried out using beam technology. AT this case there is no load on the wall of the building, since the balcony slab rests on the column consoles.
Why not a solid slab?
It would seem, is it really impossible to produce floor slabs immediately with a ledge under the balcony? After all, a whole product is always stronger. But this way will reduce the life of not only the balcony, but the whole house. Corrosion of the reinforcement will penetrate deep into the slab, the overlap will lose strength. This threatens with an emergency condition and the demolition of the house.
And if you skip the balcony slab through the wall?
It seems that the support area in this case will be larger. But building construction do not withstand long-term multidirectional loads. If the balcony slab is passed through the wall, then its inner edge will put pressure on the wall, trying to lift it. This position threatens sudden catastrophic destruction.
In what cases is it necessary to repair a balcony slab?
There are several types of repair of balcony slabs:
- small;
- average;
- emergency;
- capital.
Important: Remember, it is difficult for an ignorant person to determine how destroyed the balcony slab is. Defects should be assessed by professionals.
If cracks appear on the surface of the balcony slab, do not cover them with mortar. In this case, it is necessary to find out the degree of corrosive destruction of the reinforcement. Cracks can be very deep, which will not be noticeable from outside. If small damages turn out to be shallow, then small and medium repairs can be done independently.
The need for overhaul of the balcony slab is visible to the naked eye. This is indicated by the destructive appearance and large cracks throughout the slab. Capital or emergency repair balconies should only be done by professionals.
The following signs testify to the emergency condition of the balcony and its slabs:
- exposed armature;
- the appearance of deep cracks at the junction of the slab with the wall;
- destruction of concrete on top of the slab and its delamination from the bottom of the slab;
- collapse of slab fragments.
In this case, to repair the emergency balcony, you will need more than one unit of special equipment and a team of qualified installers. Such a plate, most likely, will have to be broken out of the load-bearing wall.
Who is responsible for repairing balconies?
Not a single regulatory document and law clearly states: a balcony is part of a supporting structure or living space? In this regard, the question may arise as to if the balcony is in disrepair, where to go and what to do? In theory, the management company should repair the balcony slab, and the owner of the apartment should repair the parapet, railings, gratings. But some confusion in the legislation does not give an exact answer to this question. On this basis, disagreements often arise between homeowners and utilities.
Conclusion: Do not bring the balcony to an emergency state. Any search for the truth will not restore the balcony slab. To avoid emergency situations, repair the balcony slab with your own hands.
If you notice signs of destruction of the balcony slab, it is necessary to writing inform the utility about this fact. The document is certified by a housing office specialist and registered in the appropriate journal. It makes sense to attach several photographs of the collapsing balcony slab to the document. Your neighbors below must put their signatures on this document.
Then you can proceed as follows: perform the restoration of the balcony slab on your own, but with guarantees of recalculating the rent. Or wait patiently for the utilities to take over the repairs. If none of the options suits you, feel free to contact the court.
How are balconies repaired?
The main cause of damage to balcony slabs is moisture. Penetrating inside the plate, water can activate the corrosion of the reinforcement. In old houses, the protection of concrete from moisture is reduced, water easily penetrates to the reinforcement. Corroded reinforcement loses bearing capacity, expands and destroys concrete.
Restoration of a balcony slab involves several working steps:
- Repair begins with cleaning the balcony: everything superfluous is taken out, garbage is removed, crumbled concrete is carefully removed.
- Bare fittings are cleaned of rust. Upper layer rust is easily removed. Next, the reinforcement bars must be treated with a special rust remover.
- Welded reinforcing mesh is laid on the surface of the slab and fixed with special dowels. It must be completely recessed into the concrete screed. To do this, a gap is left between the plate and the grid.
- Formwork boards are attached around the perimeter.
- A solution of sand and cement is poured onto the reinforcing mesh and "ferrified" (the screed is covered with dry cement and rubbed).
- The lower surface of the balcony slab must be plastered, having previously treated the surface with a primer.
Please note that the thickness concrete screed must exceed the thickness reinforcing mesh twice or even more.
For severe corrosion reinforcing cage reinforcement of the balcony slab will be required - this is a larger-scale work:
- Rolled steel beams are installed on the sides of the balcony slab and cantilevered to the wall.
- The reinforcing mesh is welded to the beams.
- Then the concrete pouring work described above begins.
When the reconstruction of the balcony slab is completed, it the surface needs to be waterproofed which is mandatory if the balcony is open. For this, various waterproofing materials roll or coating type. In particular, Penetron penetrating waterproofing has proven itself well. It is applied to a pre-moistened surface in two layers, after which the surface must remain moist for three days, and mechanical influences and temperatures below 0 degrees are not allowed.
Installation of balcony railings
Of course, the old fence can still be strong enough. But the overhaul of the balcony slab already implies the installation of a new enclosing structure. In addition, if in the future it is planned to glaze the balcony and insulate it, then it does not hurt to think over a quality basis in advance.
When installing fences without welding work not enough. On a compact inventory welding machine, which works from the network, even a beginner can work. But there are two more options:
- invite a qualified welder;
- fix the balcony railing with anchors, in this case welding is not required.
The frame of the new fence is made of rectangular profile pipe. This fence is easy to install and will have an attractive appearance. Next, an ebb of galvanized steel is attached around the entire perimeter of the balcony slab. This will protect the edge of the plate from precipitation. screed on the balcony and what is needed for this.
Balconies with takeaway
Residents of city apartments with balconies have unique opportunity not only to insulate and glaze this area, but also to increase the area of \u200b\u200bits housing. Now you can install a fence under the glazing with the removal. What does it mean?
When installing the frame of the fence, using a professional trick, you can take out the glazing beyond the parapet by about 30 cm. Considering that this action is performed on three sides of the balcony slab, then the increase in space will be significant. This option is especially ideal for owners of very small balconies.
Advantages of balconies with removal:
- Increasing space by expanding the area of the balcony slab.
- Getting a wide window sill.
- Strengthening the load-bearing structures of the balcony slab.
Thanks to everyone, especially bc----!
Hello, your link didn't open for me... :-(
Now here's what. It turns out that the data is given about RATED loads, and not about the maximum permissible ones (these are those, immediately after which the material will begin to float along the strength mat, and then crunch). Now fine.
A balcony railing is an external self-supporting slab that protects a person on it from falling. Do I understand correctly?
Now. The loggia must endure a strip uniform load in a section 0.8 m wide along the fence - 400 kilograms of force per square meter. It is clear why: when people go out to the balcony, they do not stand in the center of it.
The question is, does this include fencing? Based on the wording of the specified SNiP - no. Since the specified load should be distributed along in the presence of a loggia fence by default.
But in any case, a continuous uniform load over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe loggia should not exceed 200 kgf / sq.m.
It is also desirable that any load on the loggia be evenly distributed.
These loads are taken into account when calculating load-bearing structures loggias and wall sections where they are pinched (see below in SNiP). Consequently, the consoles, if everything is within the normal range, will withstand a uniform weight of a total of 600 kgf / sq.m + fencing (see clause 3. under the table: the structures supporting the loggia will withstand everything).
Now in my case in numbers. Plate.
195 kg. we distribute 2.8x1.2m over the loggia (the plate will still be a little larger).
195 / (2.8 * 1.2) \u003d 195 / 3.36 \u003d 58 kgf / sq.m.
This load actually occurs evenly (strip), in a section of 0.073 m along the balcony railing, which does not correspond at all to 0.8 meters of uniform load. Having made a simple proportion, we get that the uniform standard load according to SNiP at a site of 0.073 m from the fence should be 0.073 * 400 / 0.8 = 36.5 kgf / sq. M (comrades glazingers from different companies should keep this in mind, nevertheless, before advising and then erecting their own constructions in people). If we take the entire strip of 0.8 meters, then the constant load is 58 kgf / sq. m in total is 6.9 times less than the standard for the specified area.
It seems that my situation is still leaning towards the successful maintenance of all the elements mounted on it by the loggia. However, one should not be surprised if over time (long) the slab begins to crack slightly in some places, since the load in the area of 0.073 m exceeds the calculated standard by about 1.6 times (58/36.5=1.59). Or will it be distributed in some other way? So far, the full picture I still do not converge.
And another question: when a double-glazed window is attached to any underlying elements, these elements bear the weight of the double-glazed window completely, or is the double-glazed window also attached at the top so that the weight of the double-glazed window does not completely press on the underlying supports (i.e., how is the load of the double-glazed window in the vertical plane distributed? on load-bearing elements - completely or not completely)?
Thanks again to everyone for participating! Shall we continue? The question is very interesting and relevant. Special thanks to the site administrator for not hiding my message in a similar topic last year.