Since the basement, due to the peculiarities of its location, does not have sources of natural lighting, it is extremely important to provide correct wiring wiring and installation of lamps.
If you want to study in detail such an issue as electrical wiring in the basement, then this article is just for you. It provides detailed instructions on how to organize high-quality basement lighting with your own hands.
The first thing you should pay attention to is how to choose the right lamp for the basement.
- with a durable lampshade;
- protected from moisture;
- not susceptible negative influence corrosion.
Advice. You should not save money and simply screw a regular incandescent lamp into the socket, not protected by a lampshade.
Moisture can not only cause the light bulb to burn out prematurely, but also get into the socket, causing a short circuit, Negative consequences which everyone knows.
When choosing a lamp, you should correctly select the protection class of this device, which should be:
- no less than IP44;
- The ideal option is a lamp with protection class IP57.
How to properly install electricity in the basement
Wiring in the basement requires a special approach, which is due to the peculiarity of the use of building materials.
Of course, walls are most often built using materials such as:
- brick;
- concrete;
- foam blocks, etc.
Of course, they are fireproof material, but, nevertheless, given the high temperature, the wiring should be treated with extreme care.
If you decide to install light in the basement, then pay attention to the following recommendations and try to follow them:
- voltage should not exceed 42V;
- to ensure the required voltage level, use special transformers that reduce the voltage;
- When laying cables and wires, be sure to use rollers and insulators;
- use special moisture-resistant lamps with a closed socket;
- Before installing the fasteners, be sure to check whether they are able to withstand loads and whether they have mechanical or other damage.
Advice. When installing hidden wiring, in no case should you use metal pipes and metal cable ducts with a wall thickness of less than two millimeters - only thick-walled ones will provide the required level of insulation.
How to install wiring
Just because you know how to choose a lamp for the basement, this does not mean that you will be able to fulfill high-quality installation wiring. Therefore, if there is even the slightest doubt in your abilities, it is recommended to invite an experienced specialist.
Transformer, sockets and cable - which ones to choose
When arranging lighting in the basement, it is extremely important to provide a separate transformer with parameters 220V/12V - the price of such equipment is not too high, but it will help prevent short circuit and other problems.
Also pay attention to the following recommendations that must be taken into account when working:
- the wiring is laid at a height of approximately two meters from the floor;
- sockets and switches are mounted at a height of at least one;
- When choosing materials, give preference to those that can withstand high levels of moisture.
Advice. It is recommended to mount the switch only in a dry place with insufficient waterproofing; it is better to place it on the first floor of the house.
If you install sockets directly in basement, then use models with a lid.
If we talk directly about switches that can be used on the ground floor of your house, then you should give preference to automatic models. In addition, a separate RCD should be provided. The wiring itself must be new!
By the way, if we talk about the wiring itself, it must meet the following indicators:
- cross-section of at least two and a half millimeters;
- if you are going to use powerful electrical equipment (for example, heaters, welding machines and other household tools), then the cable cross-section should be at least four millimeters.
Wiring type
There are two methods of wiring installation, which are usually used on the ground floors and cellars of private houses:
- interior;
- outer.
The first type of installation is used if special equipment, tools, fertilizers, and other aggressive materials are stored in the room. Of course, you will increase the level of protection of the wires, but remember that the costs of all types of wiring will increase.
Therefore, an external option for arranging cables is usually sufficient; in extreme cases, you can hide them in:
- cable channels;
- casings.
This will not only reduce the cost of lighting the room, but will ensure constant access to the wires if repairs are necessary.
Depending on the purpose of the basement
By the way, do you know that the specifics of wiring and installation of lamps depend on the true purpose of the room?
For example, quite often it is used to store the following items:
- garden tools;
- various tools;
- conservation;
- products;
- old things, etc.
In this case, there is a high risk of snagging the wiring and not only damaging it, but also leading to a short circuit. Therefore, wires should be hidden in casings or channels.
As a last resort, securely fasten them to the wall or ceiling so that they do not hang down, but fit snugly to the surface.
Installing wiring in the basement
If you want to reduce the amount as much as possible utility networks in the living area of your home, then running the wire through the basement can be a good solution. Indeed, thanks to this arrangement, you not only reduce the risk of electric shock to the residents of the house, but also significantly simplify the tasks associated with its installation.
Although it is worth noting here that installing electrical wiring in the basement has its own characteristics, which we will talk about in this article.
When choosing a basement as the location for your utility networks, it is advisable to locate distribution points here as well. In our case, this is an electrical panel that provides power to all groups of your electrical network.
Its location in the basement has certain limitations, but they are easily feasible and will not require additional capital investments:
- First of all, we note that any electrical panel should be located in a place convenient for maintenance. At the same time, there must be sufficient lighting in this place. IN in this case, according to VSN 59-88, this should be at least 30 lux when using incandescent lamps and at least 200 lux when using fluorescent lamps.
Note! This is slightly higher than for conventional basement lighting, which, according to VSN 59-88, should be only 10 lux when using incandescent lamps and 200 lux when using fluorescent lamps.
- The next important point, which is mandatory for any location of the shield, is its location on a fireproof base. In this case, the shield itself must be made of fireproof materials and have doors with a lock. In addition, a prerequisite is that the door opens outward.
- If your basement is prone to flooding, you should consider installing the electrical panel above the flood level. By the way, this rule also applies to the installation of electrical wiring in the basement. But in any case, if you do not have a special niche for the electrical panel, then, according to clause 11.6 of VSN 59-88, the height of its location should be at least 2.2 meters from the floor level.
Note! Distance from distribution panel to any pipelines must be at least 500 mm. At the same time, in the room in which the shield is installed, the temperature should not fall below +5°C, and the room itself should have natural ventilation.
Shown in the photo correct installation electrical panel
- Our instructions do not recommend placing electrical panels under kitchens, toilets and showers due to possible flooding. In addition, it is impossible to electrical panels install shut-off and control valves for pipelines and gas networks.
Laying cable lines in the basement
Laying wires in the basement can be done in two ways - hidden and open installation. The choice of installation method depends entirely on your wishes, but the installation method open wiring much simpler.
Moreover, if you consider that the aesthetic side and free space are not as important here as in the residential area. Therefore, in my opinion, it is easier to use the open installation method, but in this article we will describe the features of laying the wire using both methods.
Open method of installing wiring in the basement
The open method of laying electrical wiring often involves the use of thin-walled boxes or metal corrugations. It is also possible to install directly onto fireproof structural elements using special fireproof pads (usually asbestos sheet is used for this).
Note! If your basement is damp, then use metal boxes and corrugations, according to Table 2.1.2. PUE (Electrical Installation Rules), prohibited. This is due to the possibility of the formation and accumulation of water in such boxes and pipes, which can lead to a decrease in the insulation resistance of the wires.
- For an open installation method, pipes or boxes made of fireproof materials should be used. When using protected cables or cables in a protective sheath, installation directly on structural elements is possible. In some cases, installation on insulators lined with fireproof materials with a thickness of at least 10 mm is possible.
- If the wiring location runs parallel to hot pipelines, then it is necessary to provide protection against temperature effects or use wires with an appropriate design.
- When laying wiring and pipelines in parallel, the distance between them must be at least 100 mm. If this is a gas pipeline, then the distance to it must be at least 400 mm.
Wire routing open method
- When simply crossing electrical wiring and pipelines, the distance between them should be at least 50 mm, with a gas pipeline at least 100 mm. In addition, if the distance between the wires and the pipe is less than 250 mm, then they must be additionally protected from mechanical damage. At the same time, if you do the installation yourself, then provide a margin of protection of at least 250 mm on each side of the pipeline.
- When using boxes and pipes, the possibility of moisture formation and accumulation in them should be excluded.
- When installing wires on insulators, the passages through structural elements should be additionally insulated with an insulating pipe. In addition, the passage of wires from one room to another should be sealed with fireproof materials. This is necessary to eliminate the possibility of fire spreading through these utility openings.
Hidden method of installing electrical wiring
The cost of installing hidden wiring is somewhat lower if the installation is carried out on fireproof structures, but if you have combustible structures in the basement, then the cost of such work will be much higher.
Hidden wiring
- Install electrical wiring in basements hidden method For fireproof structures, you can directly lay any wire. But if there are combustible structures, then you should use a lining of fireproof materials or use pipes and ducts. Agree, if you do not have special channels for these purposes, then this work is quite labor-intensive.
- It is important to note that the use of ventilation ducts for electrical wiring is not permitted. In the worst case, crossing such channels with single wires is allowed.
- The remaining rules for installing hidden wiring are mandatory when installing any wiring in any premises:
- In places where there are turns and connections of electrical appliances or taps, it is necessary to leave a supply of wire sufficient for reconnection.
- All connections must be made by soldering, welding or bolting. The use of twisting is prohibited.
- When installing wiring, it is recommended to use only right angles to avoid problems in the future.
Conclusion
Having clear requirements, presented regulatory documents to wiring installed in the basement, you can eliminate the likelihood of emergency situations. At the same time, you can view small aspects of installation thanks to numerous videos on our website.
In addition, numerous articles on our website can help you with this.
pogreb-podval.ru
Electrical wiring in the basement: design rules and installation
It is worth immediately noting that wiring in the basement can only be done by specialists or those people who understand electrical engineering and have certain skills in this field. Experts classify basements as dangerous - the probability of electric shock here is quite high due to the high level of humidity, as well as the presence of concrete or brick walls, dirt floors, many metal elements (including reinforcement), etc.
That is why electrical wiring in the basement should be done by a professional electrician or a person who is familiar with the rules of electrical installation in areas with an increased risk of electric shock. All work must be carried out in accordance with the rules. Electrical appliances that are exposed to moisture or moisture should not be used in the basement. biological processes(mold, mildew, corrosion).
It is quite difficult for an amateur to choose suitable materials for installing wiring in the basement. Cables and wires that are great for the first floor country house, may be prohibited for use in premises with high humidity air.
Features of electrical installation work in the basement
You may be familiar with the fact that a person's life will be in danger only if the voltage during an electric shock is more than 50 V. That is why the voltage in basements and cellars is reduced to 12 V. This requires the purchase and installation of a step-down transformer , operating on a 220 V network.
There will be no problems purchasing such a device today - many specialized stores offer the most different models. If possible, it is best to buy a pulse step-down transformer. This is a modern device that is well suited for constant use in the basement. The step-down transformer along with the switch should be placed, if possible, outside the basement. Thanks to this approach, it turns out that in the basement you will only have the lighting fixture itself and a wire with a voltage of no more than 12 V, which is quite safe for the lives of people living in the house.
A step-down transformer.
Among other things, it is necessary to ensure additional protection from water by placing the lighting lamp in a special glass casing. The casing must be equipped with a rubber seal to prevent condensation and moisture from getting inside the lighting fixture. Otherwise, corrosion processes will quickly reach metal elements. If the lamps are not protected by housings, they will systematically fail.
It should also be said about electrical wires. In the basement, it is allowed to use those wires that are designed for the appropriate network load. It is necessary to take into account the fact that if the lighting elements have the same power, but different voltages, then the current in the wires will flow differently. The wires that are supposed to be installed in the basement must be selected in accordance with the load current. This is very important point when installing any electrical wiring.
Wiring Principles
If you use a step-down transformer in your basement for safety, the wires can essentially be run at any height. However, often specific equipment is installed in the basement or there are other factors that do not allow the use of a step-down transformer. In this case, the wires must be laid at a height of at least 2.5 m.
Electrical installation of all cables and wires in the basement must be done using a hidden method. It is best to place them under the plaster layer. In this case, the thickness of the plaster layer should be about 1-2 cm.
In some cases, the device is allowed electrical wiring in the basement in the usual way:
- if protected wires are used;
- if they are mounted on rollers;
- if they are designed for outdoor installation only;
- if located in metal channels, etc.
If the installation of electrical wiring will be carried out in metal channels, then you must ensure that the required pipe slope is ensured. This is necessary so that moisture cannot accumulate in them. The metal parts of the duct must be properly grounded to minimize the possibility of electric shock from accidental contact. It is best to connect wires in the basement only in junction boxes that are completely sealed and not exposed to moisture.
Lighting fixtures that are designed for installation in basements must be completely sealed. As noted above, sockets, switches and other electrical devices that do not need to be used specifically in the basement are better placed outside it (for example, on the ground floor of the building or on the stairs).
How to choose lamps?
Even taking into account the fact that the voltage in the network will be minimal and you are using a step-down transformer, you need to understand that only well-protected lamps can be installed in a room with high humidity, into which moisture cannot penetrate under any circumstances.
Incorrect lighting device.
Models must have the following characteristics:
- impact-resistant lampshade;
- complete tightness and impossibility of condensation accumulation inside;
- non-susceptibility to corrosive processes.
Experts at this stage recommend not to engage in amateur activities. It is forbidden to save money by screwing the simplest light bulb into a socket. Moisture will not only cause the lamp to quickly burn out, but can also get into the socket, which in some cases leads to a short circuit, the consequences of which are probably not worth talking about.
Basement lamp in a protective casing.
Safety and Prevention
Everything that has been said above once again indicates that the choice electrical devices for basements, as well as any other places with high air humidity, must be made taking into account their protection from moisture, corrosive processes, biological effects, etc.
After the wiring in the basement has been successfully installed, do not forget about the maintenance of all electrical devices (sockets, switches, lamps, etc.). Prevention is the foundation of safety. It is especially important when the basement is located under a residential building.
It should be noted that, if possible, it is best to entrust the work to professionals who can install the wiring in accordance with all requirements and standards. Amateurs often miss minor aspects, which later lead to sad consequences. There is no need to skimp on security.
podvaldoma.ru
Electrical wiring in basements and attics
Cellars and basements, as a rule, are built from fireproof materials and structures ( brickwork, reinforced concrete blocks, floors, etc.). Floors are usually conductive: earthen, concrete, broken bricks etc. Depending on the condition of the soil, ventilation efficiency, relative air humidity, cellars and basements are classified as damp and especially damp rooms, and in terms of the degree of danger of electric shock - especially dangerous premises. There are increased requirements for electrical wiring in cellars and basements, namely:
Basement wiring diagram.
- The mains voltage should not be higher than 42 V. For this, step-down transformers should be used;
- electrical wiring should be carried out directly on the base on insulators and rollers with insulated protected wires or cables. For hidden wiring, it is prohibited to use steel pipes with a wall thickness of 2 mm or less;
- luminaires of a sealed design should be used to prevent moisture from entering the electric cartridge;
- The switch should be located outside the cellar and basement.
Electrical wiring in the attic
Hidden electrical wiring is carried out in walls and ceilings made of fireproof materials at any height.
Open wiring in attic spaces performed with wires and cables with copper conductors.
Wires and cables with aluminum conductors can be laid in buildings with fireproof floors, provided they are laid in steel pipes or hidden in fireproof walls and ceilings.
Marking distances for electrical wiring on rollers: a – for laying routes; b – for installing switches; c – to avoid obstacles: 1 – funnel; 2 – rubber semi-solid tube; 3 – heating pipe.
Transit lines in attics up to 5 m long are allowed to be made with wires with aluminum conductors. When laying steel pipes, it is necessary to prevent the penetration of dust into the pipes and junction boxes, for which sealed seals are used. threaded connections.
Pipes can be connected using threaded couplings without seals only in dry and dust-free attics. Pipes are laid with a slope so that moisture cannot accumulate in them.
Connections and branches of copper or aluminum conductors of wires and cables are carried out in metal junction (branch) boxes by welding, crimping or using clamps corresponding to the material, cross-section and number of conductors.
Branches from lines laid in the attic to electrical receivers installed outside the attics are permitted provided that both the line and the branches are laid openly in steel pipes, hidden in fireproof walls and ceilings.
Switching devices in circuits supplying lamps located directly in attics are installed outside the attics, for example, at the entrance to the attic.
Steel pipes, metal lamp housings and other metal electrical wiring structures must be neutralized. It is prohibited to lay any non-metallic pipes in attics.
fazaa.ru
Electrical supply for basements and cellars | School repair
The power supply of a basement or cellar is no less important in their arrangement and operation than ensuring normal ventilation (air exchange in the room).
Mainly the work on power supply of basements or cellars consists of connecting the power cable, installing sockets, switches, lamp sockets and connecting end consumers (devices).
To perform above listed works You will need both mechanical and electrical tools:
Screwdriver Set;
Pliers with insulated handles;
Scissors;
Side cutters with insulated handles;
Electric soldering iron;
Hacksaw for metal;
File;
Mounting chisel for making holes and grooves;
Hammer;
Electric drill;
Set of drills;
Insulating tape.
All fastening tools used to supply electricity to premises must be in good working order and easy to use, cutting tools must be sharp and properly sharpened.
Preparation of materials for electrical supply of premises
As a rule, copper or aluminum wires and cables are used for electrical wiring. different sections. Copper wiring is superior to aluminum wiring in many respects, since its main quality is resistance to bending. But nevertheless, it is better to choose one or another material based on what material was used when laying electrical wiring throughout the house, since these two different materials It's better not to combine. The operating temperature of wiring in rubber insulation should not exceed 60-65 °C, and in plastic insulation no more than 65-70 °C. And at the junctions of copper and aluminum wires this temperature increases significantly due to the difference in support. Therefore, even if you have to connect them, you must use a special connection.
The cross-section of the wires should be selected based on the maximum value of the current that heats the insulation, taking into account the mechanical load on the wires, including the contact terminals of the final electrical wiring devices.
As for laying several wires in special corrugated pipes, the permissible current in them should be reduced by 15–25%, this is due to the fact that they will heat each other. In addition, in hidden wiring channels the cooling conditions are somewhat worse.
The cross-sectional size of the cable cores at low current, especially in screw terminals, is determined by the mechanical strength of the conductor. The conductor cable cross-section should not be less than 2.0 mm2 for an aluminum conductor and 1.5 mm2 for a copper conductor. If it is necessary to carry out open wiring on rollers indoors, then the cross-section of the aluminum cable core should not be less than 2.5 mm2.
Probably the main disadvantage of aluminum wires is that they are quite difficult to connect. On the surface of aluminum wires there is a hard and refractory oxide film (it is formed by the reaction of aluminum with atmospheric oxygen) which is a rather poor conductor.
Before connecting aluminum wires, the oxide film must be removed by stripping. However, this is not for long, it forms again, which during soldering prevents adhesion to the solder, and during welding it completely forms undesirable inclusions in the melt.
The oxide film begins to melt only at a temperature of 1500 - 2000 °C, which is almost 3 times higher than the melting point of aluminum itself. The second in line among the disadvantages of aluminum wire when laying electrical wiring is its low yield strength, which is especially evident with screw terminals. Aluminum wire is squeezed out from under the clamp, thereby weakening the contact.
During operation of the leads, all connections and branches of the wires should not be subject to tension and should be located in places where they can be easily inspected and, if necessary, repaired.
To lay aluminum electrical wiring, it is necessary to use connecting parts with aluminum wires with anti-corrosion properties. electroplated. The same requirement applies to steel parts.
To connect the wires, it is necessary to cut off the insulation at their ends. Then the wire is prepared for work (if it is a multi-wire cable core), that is, a dense flagellum is made.
To ensure greater reliability of contact, the cores must be cleaned with fine sandpaper, which is lubricated with Vaseline before use. After that, the end of the core is bent into a ring using pliers or pliers, the diameter of which depends on the diameter of the clamp screw.
The ring must be bent clockwise, this will prevent it from unwinding when tightening the screw. The nut or clamping screw must be tightened until the grower is fully compressed (spring washer).
The connecting material used for soldering is tin-lead solders of the POS-30 or POS-40 type; they differ from each other only in the percentage of tin. Tin-lead solders begin to melt at temperatures of 226 and 235 °C.
To better connect the solder to the copper core of the wire, a flux is used, which is rosin, which is usually used in the form of a 20% alcohol solution. Before soldering the wires, their connecting wires are cleaned with fine sandpaper and tinned.
For connection electrical wires there are many ways. But knowledge of all methods of connecting electrical wires when laying wiring in the basement or cellar of a private house is not at all necessary; a few are enough, the main ones of which are presented in the figure below (example in Fig. 158). You can determine the required type of wire twisting in your case based on the material of the wire core and its cross-section. For example, it is advisable to solder aluminum wire strands by first twisting them with a groove.
Rice. 158. Types of wire twisting:
a – parallel; b – sequential
With this connection, under a layer of molten tin-lead solder, the strands of aluminum wires will be protected from the formation of an oxide film on their surface.
To connect large cross-section wires, so-called bandage twisting is used.
For the same purpose, you can use a combination of a bandage twist with a groove. As a rule, the bandage is made using copper wire with a core cross-sectional diameter of 0.6 to 1.5 mm, which is pre-tinned.
The strands of stranded wires must be stripped, braided and only then twisted (example in Fig. 159).
Rice. 159. Twisting stranded wires
Splicing wires ensures more reliable operation of the power line. Therefore, the rules of twisting must be taken with full responsibility.
A simple twisting method involves stripping the ends of a 35-45 mm long steel wire with a fine file or sandpaper, which are twisted tightly.
The remaining ends after twisting are carefully bitten off or filed off with a file, and the outermost turns are tightened with pliers.
Splicing wires using the bandage twist method is performed as follows: the stripped ends of the wires are clamped in a vice and wrapped with soft, pre-stripped and tinned wire.
After connection, the ends of the wires are bent at right angles and 9–11 turns of the bandage are made.
The twist and all adjacent stripped sections of the wires must be protected from corrosion; for this they are coated with special bitumen, asphalt-bitumen varnish, or simply coated with oil paint.
Installation work
There are 2 main types of wiring - internal and external.
The name external electrical wiring comes from the fact that wires are laid along the outer walls of buildings under awnings and eaves. In this case, the external electrical wiring wires are located in such a way that it is impossible to touch them. It is especially important if the wiring is laid openly along the walls of the building.
Internal wiring is laid inside walls, ceilings, foundations, ceilings, under or removable floors. Hidden wiring can be laid in pipes, flexible metal sleeves, voids building structures, grooves under the plaster.
Important: When installing and adjusting electrical wiring, you must be extremely careful, since non-compliance or violation of safety measures usually leads to severe burns and injuries.
In a room in which relative humidity air does not exceed 55-60%, all existing types of wiring can be used.
As for cellars and basements, in these rooms the relative air humidity is usually more than 76%. Therefore, in cellars you can use open or hidden wiring only with insulated protected or unprotected wires located in special pipes.
When installing a hidden installation, pipes and channels are closed along their entire length to a depth of at least 1.0 cm, and wires - to a depth of at least 0.5 cm.
It should be noted that installation of hidden wiring in pipes is more convenient. It is more convenient because in case of repair or replacement of wires they are easy to replace. It is enough to connect the old and new wire, then pull out the old one and thereby lay a new one.
It is also very important to clarify that laying two-wire or three-wire power lines in pipes and channels is not allowed.
The wiring to the lighting fixtures is laid from above through the ceiling, the wiring to the socket and switch is laid indoors from below. At the point where the channels exit the panels and ceilings, wire connection nodes are located in the branch box (example in Fig. 160).
Rice. 160. Connecting wires in a junction box
All ends of the wires are welded, insulated and sealed with cement or gypsum mortar.
Connecting wires in the distribution box
Before proceeding with the installation of electrical wiring, it is necessary to determine the exact installation locations of the panel board, lighting sockets and sockets. Then you need to mark the routes for laying the wires, the places where they turn, as well as passages through the walls.
If you plan to install open wiring, then you need to mark all the places where the wires are attached.
Ceiling lamps are suspended on special metal hooks, which are pre-fixed in the openings of the ceilings (example in Fig. 161).
Rice. 161. Fittings for fastening lamps
Naturally, metal hooks must be insulated from the lamp hangers, and for this you will need plastic or rubber tubes.
According to the standards, horizontal laying of wires is carried out parallel to the line of intersection of the walls and the ceiling at a distance of approximately 10–25 cm.
Electric highways plug sockets laid strictly horizontally, and all descents and ascents of wires to sockets, switches and lamps - strictly along a vertical line. The wiring along the ceiling is laid with flat wires along the shortest route between the junction box and the lamps. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the electrical wires do not cross and are not subjected to mechanical stress, stretching or damage.
Distance from parallel electrical wiring lines or from distribution boxes to metal pipelines(water supply or heating) should not be less than 10-15 cm. And if for some reason the wiring line crosses the pipeline, then the distance from it to the pipe at the intersection should not be less than 6 cm.
To fasten external wiring wires, special plastic fasteners or homemade tin brackets are used, which are tin strips 1.0 cm wide. These strips are attached to the wall using dowel nails.
The wire is attached to the wall at a distance of no more than 40-45 cm. And if the wires intersect, then the attachment points are determined no more than 5-7 cm from the center of the intersection of the wires.
If the wires are fastened to a wooden wall, then the gap between the fastening points should be approximately 30–35 cm. And the distribution boxes in this case are mounted on wooden base using screws.
After marking and measuring the required sections of the wiring, the wires are cut, and it is necessary to leave a small margin at each end of the wire after installation, they will be cut.
The cut wires must be straightened; to do this, simply pull them 2-3 times through a rag held in the palm of your hand. According to preliminary markings or grooves in concrete or brick wall The brackets for fastening the wires are strengthened.
The wires under the metal bracket must be protected with a layer of insulating tape (example in Fig. 162). And in order to be able to reconnect the wires in the junction box in the future, change the socket, switch or socket, and not completely change the wiring section, the ends of the wires inserted into the junction and electrical boxes should have a small margin of approximately 7–8 cm .
The section of wires inserted into the box must be separated, that is, part of the flat dividing base of the wire must be cut out. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the divided section of the wire does not extend beyond the box.
Rice. 162. Fastening flat wires with metal staples
The action of moisture in the air on the wire cores leads to their oxidation, which often leads to a break in the contact and disruption of the wiring as a whole.
In order to avoid this, you should carefully insulate the connections, that is, the ends of the cores in distribution boxes. Contact insulation is carried out using electrical tape or other modern liquid insulating materials, which are fused to the ends of the wire strands.
After the ends of the wires are insulated, they are placed in the box in such a way that they do not touch each other under any circumstances, as there is always a risk that a short circuit will occur as a result of which the insulating material may be damaged, after which the box is closed with a lid.
When installing wiring open type Switches and sockets of a protected type are installed on plastic, ceramic or wooden sockets pre-fixed to the wall.
The diameter of the socket boxes used should be approximately 1-1.5 cm larger than the dimensions of the devices installed on them.
The technology for laying cables is very similar to the technology for laying conventional wires. But, nevertheless, the conductive wires are attached in a slightly different way.
To fasten light, unarmored cables on walls with two or more conductors, use metal brackets with one leg or brackets with buckles pre-attached to the basement wall (example in Fig. 163).
Rice. 163. Securing cables with various brackets:
1 – with one foot; 2 – with two legs; 3– with buckle.
Accordingly, to lay 2 or more cables in parallel, brackets with two legs are used.
The brackets are attached to stone walls using dowels, and to wooden walls using wood screws. In this case, the cable attachment points should be located at a distance of no more than 45-55 cm from each other.
When turning the power line, the bending radius of the cable should be equal to 10 times its diameter. The first bracket is located 1.5-2.0 cm from the beginning of the cable bend.
Before connecting the cable to a socket or switch, it must be additionally secured to the wall at a distance of approximately 7–11 cm from the entry point and only then installation must be carried out.
When laying electrical wiring in rooms with high humidity, such as a cellar or basement, steel, polyethylene, polypropylene and vinyl plastic pipes and metal flexible hoses (corrugations) are used.
As for the marking of protective pipes, it begins with the location of their ends, suitable for electrical panels, electrical receivers and other control devices. After which the entire route is marked, determining the installation locations of junction boxes, turning angles and attachment points.
Before proceeding with the installation of the pipe, it is necessary to carefully inspect and prepare it, that is, if any damage is detected, these sections must be replaced. After which the metal pipes must be cleaned of all kinds of dirt and rust and painted, if possible, not only on the outside, but also on the inside.
With the use of plastic pipes, a number of problems automatically disappear, for example, there is no need to paint them, and it also allows you to avoid connections in places where the route turns, since plastic pipes bend easily by preheating them in hot water at a water temperature of 100–110 °C, 10-15 minutes is enough.
However, the use of plastic pipes is allowed only in interior spaces, provided that the air temperature in them does not exceed 50-55 ° C. Otherwise, the pipes lose their strength and original shape.
And in order to avoid the accumulation of condensate moisture in the protective pipes, the pipes should be laid with a slight slope in any direction, preferably in the direction where it can flow out freely.
All metal elements of electrical wiring in pipes must be protected from corrosion and grounded. The connection of pipe sections for hidden wiring is made on threads with tow and painted over with red lead or oil paint.
Grounding can be done either using a flexible copper jumper from the pipe to the body, or through the pipe using grounding nuts.
Before pulling the wires, it is necessary to check the installed pipeline; to do this, simply blow it with air. Then, if everything is in order and there are no blockages preventing the installation of wiring, pull it into the pipe steel rope with a diameter of 1.5–2.5 mm.
After which the aligned and straightened wires are attached to this cable and pulled through the pipes.
Connecting electrical wires in pipes is strictly prohibited.
Any connections are made in junction boxes and are carefully insulated.
After pulling the wires, it is necessary to check the insulation resistance of the wires between each other and between each wire and the ground. The norm is considered if this value does not exceed 500 kOhm.
Upon completion of the preliminary marking of the points for attaching electrical wires, it is necessary to prepare holes for fastening material and sockets for boxes of electrical installation devices.
Holes in the walls can be drilled or punched using a hammer drill.
The easiest way to break through cinder-concrete walls or walls made of red and sand-lime bricks.
To make a hole in concrete wall with granite filler, you will need a special electric car shock-rotational action and cutting tool(perforator) capable of crushing the filler and drilling out the concrete bond.
All sockets and switches with hidden wiring on brick, slag or slag concrete bases are installed in special plastic or ceramic socket boxes. These boxes have two holes for engaging the spacer legs of a socket or switch.
Such boxes can be made independently from roofing iron or tin. Sockets are made for them in the wall using a special crown attachment; if there is no such attachment, first 8-10 mm holes are drilled around the perimeter with a drill, and then the plane of the socket is cut out with a chisel.
If necessary, move the switch or socket, as well as to make narrow grooves in stone wall for recessing wires in them at intersections with pipes (as mentioned above, the distance from the wire to metal pipe should not be less than 5 cm) use a regular chisel or punch.
This is what outdoor wiring should look like in a damp room:
Installation of electrical wiring in a corrugated hose
repair-school.com
Long gone are the days when basements and attics were left empty or, in best case scenario, used them as Technical buildings, where installation of various communications was carried out - sewerage, ventilation, heating.
But still, there are situations when it is necessary to install electrical wiring in attics, basements, and cellars. In this article we will try to figure out how to produce it correctly.
So, before you begin installation, you need to determine what type of premises the basement and attic belong to. Let's start with the basement. Basements are areas with high humidity, therefore, increased requirements are placed on electrical wiring in this case.
Thus, the voltage in rooms with high humidity should be no more than 48 V, the wires must correspond to the load, taking into account the reduced voltage.
As in the case of installing electrical wiring in basements, lamps must be sealed to prevent dust from getting inside. Switches, outlets and other equipment should also be placed outside the attic.
Sergey Seromashenko
Various auxiliary rooms, which include basements and cellars, require light sources for a comfortable stay in them. Since in most cases natural lighting cannot be provided in the basement, it is necessary to implement it in other ways. And here it is especially important to fully master the topic, to study all its subtleties and nuances. Know what kind of lighting can be used in the basement of a private house and what is required for this. And most importantly, how to make it reliable and safe.
Natural lighting in the basement
Modern materials and technologies make it possible to illuminate the part of the building located below ground level and inaccessible sun rays, different ways. With the help of special light guides, it will be possible to make the lighting in the cellar as close to natural as possible, and in the literal sense. A special technology for transmitting light from the surface in lanterns, called tunnel lanterns, will tell you how to create lighting in the basement and cellar without wires or electricity. The secret lies in using a combination of two basic elements:
- dome accumulating solar energy;
- channel with reflective walls.
Together they form efficient design– safe, environmentally friendly and, according to experts, efficient enough to seriously compete with electric lamps or LED spotlights.
Artificial basement lighting
Second place rightfully goes to lighting in the basement using electrical sources. But before moving directly to the description of implementation methods, attention should be paid to typical mistakes and miscalculations made when installing lighting in the cellar with your own hands.
Important. Any buildings located below ground level have high air humidity - that is, when in contact with electricity, they are automatically equated to a high-risk group. This requires the use of special closed designs of lamps and switches. Otherwise, the health of people in the basement will be constantly in danger.
Rules and requirements for connecting electricity in the cellar
Experts strongly recommend using waterproof low-voltage circuits using step-down transformers - 12 or 36 V, but in no case 220, as in a household network. It is these solutions that are recognized as safe from the point of view of electric shock.
Attention. Electricity requires careful handling, especially in aggressive (humid) environments. Any liquid increases conductivity, and an electric current of only 0.1 A is considered lethal.
It is best to start installing basement lighting for a residential building by installing a power transformer: this is not done in the most utility room, and beyond. Compliance this condition It is necessary to ensure that the wiring in the basement of the building is at low voltage.
To conduct light into the cellar, you will need a double-insulated cable, additionally laid in a special box or metal hose. In the latter case, anti-corrosion protection (special coating) should be provided. The transformer is installed in a moisture-proof shield, which eliminates the possibility of oxidation of contacts and terminals.
Basement lamps must meet several criteria:
- completely cover the lamp with a durable glass cap;
- have a wire casing to protect against mechanical damage;
- avoid (or minimize) contact with parts of the human body.
In conditions of low ceilings, the last requirement involves placing light sources on the walls, and not from above.
Safe components
The most reliable and safe electrical fittings are those that were purchased in specialized stores and have all the required protection elements, and are not found in the ruins of spontaneous markets. Before choosing lamps for the cellar, a voltage reduction unit, as well as switches and sockets, you must make the necessary calculations.
You need to pay attention to the amount of electric current in the network and power consumption, and based on them, select equipment. It is acceptable to use modern LED lamps or LED lights for the basement in a silicone tube: they are characterized by reliability, durability, and efficiency. They also shine brighter than regular light bulbs and are not much different in price. In addition, there are lamps for the basement in 12 versions.
Switches - definitely with high level protection, not regular keyboards. This precaution will save you from unpleasant surprises with a short circuit to the housing and electric shock.
Attention. Installation electrical outlets in basement and cellar conditions is strictly not allowed, since none of them can be absolutely airtight and safe. Failure to comply with this requirement is a direct path to creating a traumatic situation.
Wiring installation
The basic rules for installing cables are to use high-quality components selected taking into account the likely load. It is determined by calculation, and is taken with a small margin (to avoid overload power units). When installing lighting in the basement, the cross-section of the wire (it is best to take copper) is also selected a little larger than required.
Any connections should be avoided - with twists, terminals, soldering: the fewer connecting points of wiring lines in the basement, the higher the likelihood of its trouble-free operation. Electricians recommend installing a special device for protection against electric shock (RCD) on the switchboard with the transformer. This additional measure will increase the safety of people using electrical wiring and lighting.
Wiring in the basement is carried out with a completely de-energized main line, starting from the installation of fittings and connecting wires. It ends with a connection to a step-down transformer. It would be useful to lay the cable in a sleeve (preferably not subject to corrosion) - the current-carrying conductors must be reliably protected from the influence of the external environment.
Finally
The article describes step by step how to arrange basement lighting. Methods for solving the problem using modern advanced technologies and standard methods. A brief explanation is given of which components and equipment can be used and which cannot, and why.
Requirements for connecting electricity are based on ensuring the safety of human life and health. That is why for equipment for basement-type premises, the lighting mode in which is not designed for the constant presence of a person, they will be one, but for use in dry residential premises - somewhat different.
It is hardly permissible to use the same solutions when installing lighting in the basement as for connecting an electric motor or by analogy with the wiring diagram in the garage. And this is the only reason why a cable for a cellar, with equal characteristics (material, cross-section), will cost a little more than a wire for a household network: it uses double insulation.
And one last thing. For those who want to save money on something, for example, on protecting a lamp from moisture, a well-worn quote can be cited as a warning: once a year a stick goes off. And in a humid environment, any mistake can be fatal, because, ultimately, saving on equipment reliability means saving on your health.
Peter Kravets
Reading time: 3 minutes
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Only artificial lighting can be used in the cellar, but to do this, it is necessary to lay utility networks. Lighting in the room must be carried out in compliance with all rules and regulations. Each lamp must be equipped with a special protective structure.
In order to correctly install light into the cellar, you need not only to pay attention to how the cable is laid, but also to the selection of equipment. Traditional incandescent lamps, which are mounted without installing a lampshade, are not suitable in this case, since moisture easily penetrates into the socket and causes unpleasant consequences.
It is better to take models that are completely isolated from the effects of condensation and water. As a rule, they are intended for lighting streets and garages. Such devices are equipped with a housing that is not subject to corrosion and is lightweight.
When connecting, you only need to use whole pieces cable without using separate parts, even those well connected to each other.
It is necessary to choose the right protection class for lighting fixtures, no less than ip44, although experts most often advise choosing models belonging to the ip57 class. Such equipment can even be in water, although only for a short time. On the outside they are equipped with a metal mesh, which means they will remain intact even if they are caught or dropped.
Underground storage facilities are typically built from fireproof materials such as brick or concrete. In any case, the flooring is conductive, made from broken bricks or ordinary soil.
Also, the features of underground premises include an increased level of dampness, much higher than in above-ground residential premises. For these reasons, the laying of electrical cables must be treated with special attention.
Electrical wiring is done taking into account the following requirements:
- The mains voltage required is no more than 42 V. To ensure this indicator, it is necessary to use special transformers that reduce the values to the required limit;
- The cable is laid through rollers or special insulators. If the wiring is supposed to be hidden, you should not use steel pipes with a thickness of less than 2 mm;
- Installation of lighting using special lamps is done differently than with standard incandescent lamps. The cartridges must be protected hermetically from moisture penetration;
- Switches should not be installed indoors. Their location is allowed only in adjacent and dry rooms or outside;
- All lamp pendants must withstand loads 5 times higher than the mains voltage. Before installation, the fastenings are checked for deformations, defects or damage that could lead to damage to the line and collapse of the entire network.
Electrical wiring installation
Cellars and basements refer to underground rooms that are particularly damp. This also determines special conditions lighting installation.
Underground rooms are made of fireproof materials, but the floor covering conducts electricity well, since the humidity level is quite high.
This circumstance requires special attention when wiring lighting into the interior space. Installing light into the cellar with your own hands is not very difficult, but if the owner is not confident in his abilities, he should involve specialists who will carry out all the work in full compliance with the requirements and safety standards for working with electrical equipment.
When installing lamps, you must take care of installing a special separate transformer with a voltage of 220 W.
All wiring is laid at a distance of about 2 meters from the floor line, but not lower. If there is a need to make sockets, they are made at least 1 meter higher flooring using special protective devices, moisture resistant. Such sockets are equipped with a lid that slams tightly.
Such equipment can even be installed on fences and open terraces, in places with an aggressive environment.
Experts recommend installation circuit breakers, since ordinary ones melt too much in underground rooms. The wiring is made exclusively new, since all devices can be triggered by current leakage, and cable defects in this case are unacceptable.
When laying the cable, the cross-section is selected based on the total power consumption. As a rule, 2.5 square millimeters is sufficient. If you plan to use powerful equipment, welding machine, for example, you need a cable with an increased cross-section of up to 4 square millimeters, sometimes up to 6 square millimeters.
But, as a rule, such consumption is not required in cellars, so it is quite possible to use 2.5 square millimeters for the cable. Shields are used exclusively from metal, placed in the driest part of the room, or better yet, in adjacent rooms.
Wiring options
In order to make lighting in a cellar or basement, you need to use or internal installation cable, or external.
In simple basements, you can get by externally by laying and securing the cable neatly on the surface through cable channels or protective covers. In this case, all networks will remain in the free access zone for regular repairs and verification work, if necessary.
The internal wiring method is done only when the cellar is combined with storage facilities for equipment, garden fertilizers and other similar things. Such options are not recommended by experts due to high cost and difficulties in maintenance.
The difference between electrical wiring in the basement and cellar
Many owners are interested in the question of whether there is a difference between wiring lighting in the basement and in the cellar. Both rooms are characterized by high humidity, which negatively affects all networks and communications, requiring increased protection in both cases.
There are also some differences. If for the basement it is possible to install a cable in a protective casing and use special lighting, then in the cellar all work is much more difficult.
In those rooms where not only inventory and equipment are stored, but also food and food supplies, there is a chance of damaging the cable simply by catching either it or the lamp.
To avoid this, the wires are placed in protective casings and fixed to walls and ceiling surfaces. For this purpose, special boxes for utility networks are used, which performs protective function from mechanical damage.
In basements, although there is high humidity, there is still no aggressive environment. In some cases, they have a cellar equipped for storing produce and garden materials. Fertilizers and soil impurities, disinfectants, and toxic substances are also stored in the cellars. All of them negatively affect the wiring, causing it to become unusable over time.
For lighting in the cellar, choose the most best equipment and cable. It is important to carry out regular inspections of all lighting fixtures and cables, panels, sockets and switches.
He doesn’t install socket switches indoors, but even if they are located outside, they still need to be checked periodically. In all other respects, the lighting wiring in the basement and cellar does not differ from each other. Not recommended for use simple wires, which are used for above-ground living rooms.
It is prohibited to use natural lighting in cellars, preferring its artificial counterpart. This is due to the storage requirement of products that are sensitive to light and temperature. Upon access natural light inside, photosynthesis, development and deterioration of the crop begins in plants and vegetables.
