It is quite possible. According to information from DOCKE, the largest manufacturer of siding, the cost of installing vinyl facades by construction crews is 60...70% of the cost of materials. The costs, given the scope of work, can be significant.
But there is also good news. Siding is one of the few modern materials that does not require high skills to install, or, as they say, to do it yourself.
The ease of carrying out the work should not hide the fact that without good theoretical preparation, unplanned money can be spent on eliminating rework. To prevent this from happening and you can save a lot of money, check out how to make siding yourself.
- install siding and gutters;
- enjoy a beautiful façade for decades.
Note!
Why is it important to know how to make siding correctly?
In addition to the beauty and reliability of the house façade, failure to comply with the installation technology recommended by the manufacturer may void your product warranty!
The main rule is don’t skimp on material.
And yet, what is siding made of? The first panels were made of wood, but nowadays the most popular products are made of vinyl.
This material:
- has a relatively low price;
- looks beautiful and modern;
- allows you to level and insulate any façade;
- does not require extensive installation skills.
It is important to pay attention not only to what the siding is made of, but also to the conditions of its production. Poor quality raw materials and violation of manufacturing technology lead to low mechanical performance. Such a material, in addition to increased fragility and low strength, does not always meet fire safety requirements.
Of course, to get into the production and see how siding is made - great luck. But is this really necessary?
Just follow these simple tips:
- ask the seller for a certificate for the material;
- examine the back side of the panel - its color should be exactly the same as on the front side;
- choose products only famous brands at official dealers– they will provide certificates and all technical documentation.
Some craftsmen are wondering how to make siding themselves. This idea can still be considered in production wooden elements in the form of a beam. But this is no longer siding.
Some myths about siding
Here is just a small list of fables that claim that the panels are made of polyvinyl chloride:
- terribly toxic;
- do not allow air to pass through;
- harm human health;
- destroy the environment;
- crack in the cold.
What do you think of the list? Before making a house with siding - covering it with panels, let's consider the objectivity of existing myths.
First, safety vinyl panels confirmed by sanitary and hygienic certificates. Moreover, the material came to us from America, where every resident can sue any enterprise. And such people often win quite high-profile cases.
You can recall the proven harm of Teflon coating. Let us conclude that litigation would have long since affected the siding. So far so good...
Neither more nor less, but for now it’s 20 years of operation. Moreover, in the most difficult conditions Far North.
Siding has completely destroyed all the myths about its fragility in the cold at temperatures down to -50 degrees Celsius! The only question is how to make siding correctly, so as not to end up in a situation with the installation of a cheap and low-quality product.
Application of various materials
Used for finishing country houses, as well as multi-storey buildings. Industrial buildings with increased requirements for protection from fire and various aggressive environments are sheathed with metal panels.
Note!
Vinyl lining is a popular material that is often confused with siding.
In fact, these are cellular panels that are used for cladding interior spaces. The composition of PVC vinyl lining is not intended for outdoor use.
Steel panels are used for cladding industrial construction projects. A special coating is applied to the surface of such products. The main disadvantage of steel products is their heavy weight and susceptibility to corrosion.
It has an advantage over its steel counterparts. It is lightweight, durable and does not rust. The material can be covered with paint or PVC film. The latter not only imitates wood, but also protects the surface of the panels from scratches.
Wood siding is made from wood fibers with inclusions of binders. This process occurs under high pressure and temperature.
Note!
Wood siding - natural and environmental material, which does not contain components harmful to human health.
You can use such products for interior construction work.
But at the same time wooden crafts not as popular as their more common vinyl counterparts.
The main disadvantages of natural materials:
- high price;
- ability to absorb moisture;
- flammability.
Cement siding is a product of the latest achievements in the construction industry. Such panels are made from cement with the addition of cellulose fibers. Due to the fire resistance of the material, it is used for finishing schools, hospitals, and kindergartens.
Note!
Installation of cement panels must be carried out with extreme caution - when cutting such material, harmful silica dust is formed.
Siding installation
Installation rules
Instructions – chief assistant on the construction site around your home. It is necessary to follow each of its points.
The most common mistakes:
- using simple nails instead of galvanized steel or aluminum hardware;
- no installation gap of 1 mm between nail heads and panels.
The first mistake leads to the formation of rusty smudges. In the second case, the material is guaranteed to warp and deteriorate - it will not be able to expand and contract normally when the temperature changes. And after that there will be “masters” who will declare the low quality of the material, continuing to fuel the same myths.
Installation technology
The whole process can be reduced to the main points:
- preliminary preparation of house surfaces;
- installation of sheathing and additional elements for;
- installation of mineral wool insulation;
- direct installation of siding and additional accessories.
Preliminary preparation of a brick house does not include any special measures. It is enough to remove interfering elements from the walls and seal the cracks with cement mortar. Surface wooden house requires additional processing antiseptic.
The most important and difficult stage is the installation of the façade sheathing. Main criterion correctness of work - the sheathing should lie flat on such a structure, without waves.
The panels are designed with a perforated mounting edge. When driving a nail into the middle of the holes, it is necessary to leave a technological gap. In this case, the panel has the ability to move slightly.
This allows you to compensate for stress in the material and changes in its dimensions without destruction. Also leave a gap between the panel and the accessory - the siding should move freely horizontally, as shown in the photo.
Installation of panels can be carried out:
- vertical;
- horizontally;
- diagonally.
When installing the panels, do not forget to insulate the house:
- install vapor barrier material;
- insert insulation boards into the sheathing;
- stretch the waterproofing film.
After this, attach the siding. The process is quite simple, but to avoid mistakes, watch videos from professionals.
Features of installation in winter
Before you make siding yourself—sheath your house yourself—read the instructions and recommendations for its installation. If you are a beginner, it is not recommended to install the material at temperatures below -5 degrees Celsius. Please note that -15 degrees Celsius is the limit for professional craftsmen.
Here's the thing. At low temperatures, polyvinyl chloride panels shrink in size. Therefore, the work must be carried out very carefully. Of course, the material will not crack in half, but in the cold it does become less flexible.
Caring for a house with siding
As they say: “Just add water.” Siding can be washed using a garden hose and long-handled brushes.
Note!
To avoid damage outer covering siding - use soft brushes or rags.
For the same reason, the following materials should never be used: cleaning products based on organic solvents, nail polish remover, unknown chemicals.
To remove grease stains, use water solution based washing powder. Treat stuck chewing gum with a solution of 1/3 vinegar and 2/3 water, and any water-based product will be useful to remove marks from drawing with a felt-tip pen.
In conclusion of the article
Before you make the right siding - cladding your house yourself - study all the instructions for its installation. When choosing panels, do not get carried away with cheap products. The quality of the material is a guarantee that its characteristics will correspond to the declared indicators. Order siding only from well-known companies - professionals will calculate the quantity and cost of all materials themselves.
Using our tips, you can cover your house with modern panels yourself and save about 70% of your home decoration budget. You will see that siding myths are just that: myths. Have a beautiful facade!
To save on facade building materials during construction, I suggest making your own siding. This method is simple, affordable, and requires only basic skills in handling a circular saw. The material for making homemade facade cladding can be either fiberboard or plywood.
Step-by-step siding manufacturing process
Step 1. Cutting strips of plywood or fiberboard
At this stage you will need: a carpenter's table, a disk plate, a heavy load, a long ruler, a pencil. The sequence of work is as follows:
- Place five sheets of fiberboard/plywood on a large woodworking table.
- Secure the stack from moving when slicing with a heavy iron weight.
- Make markings on the top sheet using a long ruler. The width of the strips is 20 cm.
- Cut strips using a hand-held circular saw.
- Remove the prepared strips, clean the table and place a new stack of sheets.
Sawing several sheets at a time is more productive because you are less likely to make markings and cut 5 pieces at once in one saw pass. You can cut seven sheets at a time, but the load on the circular saw will be heavy.
Step 2. Preparing homemade siding for installation on the facade
At this stage, the workpieces are given beautiful view and at the same time the surface is protected from moisture and microorganisms, which will extend the service life of the siding. The sequence of operations is as follows:
- The edges of the strips are cleaned with emery cloth.
- The rough (back) side of the fiberboard is primed with inexpensive paint with the addition of drying oil. Every builder has old, stale paint; that can also be used. For a primer, the quality of the paint is unimportant, the main thing is the cost-effectiveness of production.
- After the primed surface has dried, apply high-quality paint to the front, smooth surface Fiberboard. After drying, the treatment is repeated at least 1 time to obtain a smooth, continuous painted layer. Of course, paint must be purchased for outdoor use.
If the siding is made of plywood, then it is enough to coat both sides with varnish or antiseptic. The structure of the tree and knots will look impressive, giving a natural texture. The processing is also carried out in two layers, carefully covering all sides of the workpieces.
Painted or varnished strips of siding have high coefficient moisture resistance, practically not inferior to industrially produced plastic facade cladding. Homemade material does not curl or deform in rainy weather, and tolerates temperature changes well.
Some tips
The final coat of paint on the front surface is sometimes easier to apply to the siding already attached to the walls with a spray gun.
You can experiment and change colors. The photo shows white homemade siding, but yellow or pink color will be too original version. If the house is located near a dusty road, then it is more convenient to paint the material in a light gray color.
Both paint for fiberboard and varnish for plywood can be chosen with a matte or glossy surface, achieving the desired effect. The more layers of paint, the more durable and stronger the product will be.
Fastening to the walls is done in a standard way on a frame made of bars or metal profile using small nails or metal screws. If desired, you can use an industrial decorative corner profile to match the color of your homemade siding to give the facade an impeccable look.
Fiber cement siding is a new direction in finishing house facades. The front surface of siding, unlike vinyl and aluminum analogues, can be made in the form of imitation of various natural materials. With the help of decorative panels, the facade of the house can be visually ennobled with natural stone, wood, facade tiles, plaster, intricate brickwork.
In addition to its attractive appearance, fiber cement siding is distinguished by its excellent quality, strength and durability.
Fiber cement cladding for facades is made from sand, cement and additional materials. As an addition to various types of siding they are used as natural materials(mineral fillers, cellulose) and synthetic components (acrylic).
A mixture of cement and sand provides the material with strength and water resistance. Mineral components give the facing panels internal plasticity and prevent material rupture during sudden changes in temperature and humidity conditions. Cellulose provides rigidity to the material and additionally reinforces the façade covering.
During production, fiber cement boards are pressed and autoclaved. When pressing, the siding is given required form. Subsequent firing of the slabs at high temperatures ensures strength and resistance to various physical and temperature influences.
Types and brands of fiber cement siding
Fiber cement panels of this brand are environmentally friendly, since the material does not contain asbestos and ballast fillers harmful to human health. Cladding panels are produced in the form of an imitation of natural stone with a relief surface.
The siding is distinguished by a reinforced coating consisting of 3 layers: primer, acrylate paint and silicone transparent layer. Thanks to the protection, facades do not fade in the sun, do not corrode and self-clean during precipitation.
This brand of siding is highly resistant to high humidity And low temperatures. Natural and synthetic components are used in the manufacture of the material. Collection facade cladding It is distinguished by both color diversity and a large selection of imitation of various materials.
Nichiha
Japanese technologies have made it possible to create an ideal facade with a magnificent appearance, impact resistance and high wear resistance. Fiber cement siding of this brand is environmentally friendly and has low thermal conductivity, which reduces building heating costs.
Do-it-yourself cladding of a house with fiber cement siding
Calculation of material quantity
As a rule, you can calculate it yourself required quantity siding and fasteners are very difficult. It is best to contact experienced sales consultants who, based on the provided dimensions of the house, will make the most correct and economical calculation of the material.
Do-it-yourself siding installation. Stages of installation of facing material
- Marking a horizontal line on the walls for installing rows of cladding.
- Installation of drainage structures along the foundation line.
- Installation of waterproofing material under fiber cement siding.
- Installation of a frame for fastening cladding panels.
- Siding fastening.
- Sealing seams and gaps.
- Finish painting of joints.
Tools and materials for installation work
- Measuring tools: level, hydraulic level or laser level. With their help, the wall surface will be marked.
- Roulette.
- Construction corner.
- Hammer and set of drills for concrete and metal.
- Miter saw for cutting facing material.
- Clamps for fastening guides.
- Screwdriver and set of bits.
- Grinder for cutting metal profiles and brackets.
- Metal scissors for cutting planks for water drainage.
- Plaster rule (metal lath).
- Cutter.
- Standard set of plumbing tools (hammer, pliers, screwdriver).
Before installing siding, it is necessary to build a drainage system to protect the foundation.
Step 1. It is necessary to inspect all the walls of the building and mark the beginning of the first row of facing material. Most often, the bottom edges of the siding are attached to top harness foundation.
Step 2. Using measuring instruments, the horizontal level should be accurately determined. It is on this that the siding panels will be attached. If you make the markings “by eye”, the rows of cladding may fail.
Step 3. Attach flashings for the foundation.
Installation of frame for facing material
Step 1. A waterproofing film is attached to the wall of the house using self-tapping screws and special metal plates with perforations.
Step 2. A frame of wooden beams with a section of 50 by 50 mm is mounted on top of the film. If the walls of the house need insulation, then insulation slabs, cut into right size. The thickness of the insulation should not exceed the thickness of the beams.
If the siding is mounted vertically, then the main frame posts should be mounted horizontally. It is also important to attach additional jumpers between the main posts. Step between horizontal and vertical jumpers the sheathing should be no more than 40 cm.
Step 3. A second layer of waterproofing material is attached on top of the insulated posts.
Step 4. A vertical sheathing is attached on top of the waterproofing to secure the siding panels. Wooden beams are screwed to the racks in which the insulation is located. This creates a ventilated façade. For the second row of sheathing, you can use wooden blanks with a thickness of at least 3 cm. Thus, the thickness of the cladding together with double lathing from timber is more than 15 cm.
Important. When installing the second vertical sheathing, you need to use a level to secure the siding. The structure must be perfectly level. If in some place the planks are attached at an angle, you can use special plastic levelers.
Installation of fiber cement cladding panels
Siding panels are attached to special fittings - clamps. This fastener is sold with the material. For each type of siding, clamps of special size and strength are produced. If desired, clamps can be omitted; in this case, it is recommended to simply fasten the cladding panels to the frame using stainless steel self-tapping screws.
Step 1. Metal starting strips are attached to vertical wooden posts using screws. If the siding is mounted horizontally, the starting posts are also mounted horizontally. The first starting strip, attached at the very bottom of the wall, sets the angle of inclination of the first facing panel.
Step 2. Installation of corner guide profiles along the edges of the wall. This hardware is attached to wooden beams using self-tapping screws.
Step 3. Connecting profiles are attached to the sheathing, the step is no more than 1 meter. Options for laying siding
Step 4. Cut out the siding panels. The distance between the vertical corner profiles is measured. This is the size the siding is cut to. It is best to cut material with reverse side, since when cutting, chips or nicks may appear on the edges of the panels.
Step 5. The first cut panel is placed on starting bar, installation of the material is carried out from the bottom up, overlapping. The panel is attached to a wooden stand using clamps or simply drilled with screws. The fastener is driven into the body of the material using a screwdriver. It is recommended to recess the head of the screw into the siding in order to subsequently hide the metal under a layer of special putty.
Step 6. The second siding panel is measured and cut in the same way. At the junction of two panels, you need to attach a strip of waterproofing material to the vertical posts.
Step 7 All subsequent siding panels are overlapped over each other using waterproofing at the joints.
Finishing of facing material
After the siding is attached to the walls, you need to hide the metal fasteners. For these purposes, a corrective dye identical to the color of the siding is used. The dye is purchased along with the material. If a clamp fastening was used, then all mounting hardware turns out to be hidden under the panels.
The cut ends of the panels also need painting. Retouching paint is used for restoration. You need to use a brush to paint over all visible cuts and chips.
Sealing seams and gaps. It is not recommended to use regular silicone for these purposes. You can purchase a special colored sealant along with the material. In this way, a beautiful cladding of the facade of the house is created, having the same color.
Installation of siding on walls should be carried out in dry and windless weather. Cladding should not be carried out in the rain, especially if a layer of insulation is pre-installed.
For work at height, special structures are needed - scaffolding or scaffolding. With their help, attach the material to high walls it will be more convenient and safer.
Purchased siding cannot be stored on the ground. It is best to unload the material onto special wooden pallets. The slabs must not be bent during storage; they may become deformed.
Video - Do-it-yourself siding installation. How to properly install fiber cement siding on the facade of a house
Vinyl siding - modern material for external cladding of building facades. This type“cladding” is gaining increasing popularity due to the fact that PVC siding is lightweight, low cost, easy to install, has a wide variety of colors and shapes, and high performance qualities. Therefore, it is not surprising that the production of vinyl siding is a successful type of business with a capacious sales market and great demand.
Vinyl siding It is made from a PVC mixture - granulated polyvinyl chloride with the addition of various additives, stabilizers and dyes that provide certain performance properties. The most common additives provide resistance to ultraviolet radiation, pollution, precipitation, temperature changes and fire safety. There are also other additives for the production of vinyl siding on the production market. Therefore, when you open your own siding production, you can create an exclusive facing material with unique characteristics.
PVC siding production technologies
Equipment and production lines vary among siding manufacturers. This is due to the fact that everyone tries to produce individual products. However, the basics of production are the same.
Vinyl siding, in all industries, is produced by extrusion. The operating principle of this method is that the finished PVC mixture (granulated polyvinyl chloride and necessary additives) for siding is “squeezed out” through the profiling hole of an extrusion unit. This process can be of two types - monoextrusion and coextrusion.
Monoextrusion. In this technological process vinyl siding is produced “as is” - that is, the finished PVC mixture is melted in an extruder and extruded through a hole that forms the profile of the future siding. After this, the siding goes through a molding process, and the required pattern or texture is applied to the surface of the siding. The vinyl blank, after cooling, is cut into standard sizes and sent to the warehouse.
Vinyl siding made using monoextrusion has a low cost, but it is the same in structure and color inside and out, and has a lot of weight, which absolutely does not take into account the operating environment and the loads placed on the installed siding. Currently, equipment and siding, despite the cost, of this type are used extremely rarely. Therefore, avoid offers to purchase this type of equipment if you want to use and develop production over time.
Coextrusion. It mainly differs from monoextrusion in that during the production process, two parts of the same siding are simultaneously produced on two extruders - external and internal. The outer part contains dye and other modifiers that provide protection from the external environment. The inner layer is saturated with frost-resistant and high-strength modifiers, which allows the siding to maintain its shape, elasticity and load distribution for the entire service life of the vinyl panels. The outer part occupies up to 25% of the thickness of the overall siding profile.
The further process also includes molding, cutting and cooling of the finished product.
Watch a short video showing the process of making corner siding. Can you guess what type of line is used in the video? Leave your answer in the comments to the article.
Equipment for the production of vinyl siding necessary for organizing a production workshop
As described above - the main elements of the production line are - mixing and extrusion plants. Which are equipped with crevice nozzles to give the required shape. For applying textures and technological holes As well as cutting finished products, molds or industrial guillotines are used. To speed up the production process, you can purchase cooling chambers that reduce the “cooling” time of the siding. Modern lines are fully automated and equipped with computer control. Can handle one line with the strength of 1-2 operators.
Extruder - automated vinyl plastic production line
In addition to the main production lines, you will need auxiliary lines for the production of various additional elements (slopes, ebbs, etc.). A packaging line will also be needed.
For additional income, you can produce mounting profiles from galvanized or painted iron and, in fact, the fasteners themselves. Fortunately, such installations are inexpensive and versatile.
Types of vinyl siding in demand in Russia
Russia is different in that the main demand here is for classic forms and types of siding that imitate natural materials. Therefore, in addition to “flat” siding, it is advisable to produce vinyl siding of the following types - “log”, “beam”, “brick” or “stone”. As the names indicate, each type of PVC panels imitates natural materials- wood and stone.
The low cost of vinyl guarantees a constantly growing demand for this type of “cladding” material and, despite the fact that both imported and domestic producers vinyl siding - demand exceeds supply.
And, if you want to start producing PVC siding, open own business and workshop, first study the market of supply and demand, and then buy equipment, with an eye to future demand.
Especially for KHOBIZ.RU
Siding is a building material that allows you to quickly, with little labor and money, give a private home an attractive appearance. Siding is most often used to renovate old, but still quite good buildings, see fig. Installation of siding is technologically very simple, does not require careful preparation of the underlying surface, complex working skills and special tool.
At the same time, the cost of cladding work by a hired team is 50-60% of the cost of the material, which for an average-sized house will be at least 12,000 rubles. savings in case of independent execution. The work process itself for a person who knows how to make something, but who is taking on siding for the first time, takes 5-12 working days.
In addition, finishing a house with siding in itself significantly insulates it. And it can (and is recommended) be combined with cladding work. At the same time, it is significantly simplified and cheaper without compromising efficiency. When installing siding yourself with simultaneous insulation, the total cost of work drops by at least half, fuel consumption for heating in winter is reduced by 25-35% in mid-latitudes, and electricity consumption for air conditioning in summer is reduced by 15-20%. Raise your last year’s expenses for these budget items, estimate the savings in money - you probably won’t have to give more compelling arguments in favor of upgrading your home with siding yourself.
Where did he come from?
Siding in translation means...those. Yes, yes, those same seasoned cut to size and planed to profile wooden boards, applied to the sheathed surface or frame in a herringbone pattern. Initially, overlapping planking was used in shipbuilding; Pleasure fofana boats made using this technology can still be found in some places.
It was either the Vikings or our Pomors who came up with the idea of sheathing, but now you can’t tell. Both required strong, lightweight, durable and non-requiring frequent repairs vessels suitable for navigation among ice. In the powers whose fleets sailed to low latitudes, sheathing of ships did not take root, and was then completely forgotten - it is extremely prone to fouling.
The northern peoples soon, for the sake of saving wood, which was scarce beyond the Arctic Circle, and for greater strength and durability of buildings, began to sheathe houses with planks. This made it possible to build faster in new places, so plank buildings were especially popular among Russian pioneers. The Anglo-Saxons met them in Canada and Alaska, which was then a Russian possession. In general, there were many of our compatriots living in America; on the map south to San Francisco and east to Detroit there are names like Russian Fort, Russian Point, etc.
Practical and highly engineered Americans fell in love with siding, and clapboard private houses became widespread there, although the cowboys from the Wild West themselves hardly suspected that the buildings in their settlements were built using Russian technology. Nowadays, siding is made from modern structural materials; the parts are connected with snap locks. This freed the siding from the only drawback of its ancestor - the obligatory caulking of the seams, which had to be replaced annually.
Why this article?
Each batch of siding panels (boards) and shaped fastening elements for them - add-ons - must be accompanied by detailed instructions for assembling the coating. Sellers, as a rule, give a free copy upon purchase, and there is plenty of material on this topic on the Internet.
But the instructions cannot provide for everything; there are always nuances, neglect of which can complicate the work and deteriorate its quality, although siding, in general, is very tolerant of minor deviations from installation technology. On the other hand, these minor deviations can, depending on specific conditions, be allowed deliberately for the sake of simplifying and reducing the cost of work. It is these subtleties that we will discuss further.
How is siding applied?
There are a lot of materials for assembling siding with your own hands, but somehow the materials recommended by leading manufacturers are lost in them. typical diagram casing, see fig. on right:
- Superimposed on the wall.
- The first one (distance strips) is installed under the insulation.
- Insulation is applied in two layers.
- A second sheathing is mounted on top of it.
- Siding is being installed.
Let’s say right away that almost no one ever does this, it’s too complicated and expensive. Why is it recommended? Based on the worst case scenario - insulation with mineral wool. To prevent the outside from immediately getting wet, falling asleep and no longer insulating anything, ventilation gaps are needed on both sides of the insulation layer, and its layers must be applied with the slabs moving.
Insulation under siding is most often made of polystyrene foam. Moreover, since it is sufficiently protected from bad weather and the sun by the sheathing itself and is not loaded with plaster, you can use not the expensive EPS, but the cheapest packaging one. The design of the simplified cladding discussed below involves insulation with it.
Video: about siding using the example of an old house
Preparation for sheathing
Complex and/or time-consuming work is not required to prepare for siding. An external inspection of the building and several measurements are enough, which will take no more than half a day. You may have to “squeeze” the swellings with the butt masonry mortar, drive in protruding nails and eliminate other small protrusions over 6 mm in height.
Inspection
During the inspection of the house, first of all, using a long, even strip and a cord/tape measure, the general unevenness of planes and lines is determined: walls, plinth pedestal, corners, eaves balks, roof overhangs, pediment undersides, window openings. It should not exceed 12 mm over the entire plane/line or 6 mm locally.
That is, if, for example, the wall turns out to be not a rectangle, but a rhombus or trapezoid, then the difference in its diagonals should not exceed 12 mm. And the same difference in diagonals for window/door openings should be no more than 6 mm. The general hump or depression of the wall or the deflection of the pediment/cornice/basement should also be no more than 12 mm, etc. Installation of siding is allowed on buildings that are slightly tilted, but generally retain their rectangularity.
Next, check with a level and plumb line the perpendicularity/horizontalness of the lines and angles relative to the base and the ground surface. The overall slope of the building due to subsidence should not be more than 25 mm on any side. As a rule, such a tilt reveals itself at the previous stage of the audit as unacceptable deflections/subsidence. If so, you don’t have to think about siding for now - the building is at least pre-emergency, it needs major renovation. The installed cladding will soon begin to warp and swell.
Choice of lathing
The lathing for siding can be made of one- and two-level metal from CD profiles (see figure) or special and one-two-level wooden, from slats from 40x40 to 50x80 mm. In the latter case, the sheathing tree must be impregnated with insecticides and fungicides. Both lathings can be either linear or lattice; single-level lattice - mortise. Rectangular sheathing strips are placed on the wall with the narrow side.
The type of sheathing is selected based on the results of a building inspection:
- General unevenness up to 3 mm – any one-level; Linear is better, it is simpler and cheaper.
- The same, up to 6 mm - single-level wooden from 50x80 beams or two-level metal from C-profiles.
- The same, up to 12 mm - two-level wooden with alignment of the outer beams with plywood pads at the joints or special metal, with adjustment strips.
Next, you should choose the design of the sheathing: with horizontal or vertical logs. The first will go under vertical siding (see below), and the second will go under horizontal siding. If the sheathing is two-level, then we are talking about external joists on which the boards will be hung.
It must be said that vertical siding is not at all the same boards installed upright. Vertical siding boards are a special type of product; they are more expensive than ordinary ones. Siding manufacturers recommend sheathing the walls of a building horizontally and the gables vertically, and lathing accordingly.
These recommendations are based on considerations of increased wind resistance of the sheathing. There is no place to go into the intricacies of the aerodynamics of buildings here; suffice it to say that the combined cladding is designed for an average annual wind speed of over 10 m/s. However, in the Russian Federation there are almost no places with such winds, only in some places on the outskirts the average annual wind speed exceeds 5 m/s. Therefore, our finishers often make horizontal cladding on vertical joists throughout the entire outer area of the building. This simplifies and reduces the cost of work.
About thermal bridges
The reader may have a question: if the sheathing is metal, then what is the point of insulation? Metal carcass will let cold into the wall in addition to any foam.
It will not allow entry if spacers made of paronite or basalt cardboard are placed under the profiles in the places where they are attached to the wall or under the heels of the adjusting strips; By the way, they are very convenient for adjusting the evenness of the lags. But the self-tapping screw does not form a thermal bridge; it sits not directly in the wall, but in a plastic dowel.
About self-tapping screws
To attach the sheathing, you need 4-6 mm self-tapping screws, extending into the wall at least 60 mm. Phosphated (black) ones are better, they are cheaper and stronger, and rust does not appear under the skin. The fastening pitch is 350-500 mm, depending on the windiness of the place.
The sheathing parts are attached to the wooden sheathing with 3 mm self-tapping screws with a head-press washer with a diameter of 8 mm. To attach to a wooden sheathing you need “bugs” 22-24 mm long, and to a metal sheathing you need “fleas” 6-10 mm long. The fastening pitch and other subtleties - see below, in the installation section.
About the old casing
old wood paneling can be left under the siding if it is not warped or rotten. This will immediately give a fairly flat underlying surface. If the sheathing is uncovered, it’s okay; we consider the protruding edges of the boards to be flat. You just need to adjust the fastening pitch so that the screws fit on the edges of the old boards.
About horizontal horizontal
Horizontal siding is easily attached to a vertical sheathing by one person, and the accuracy of installing the joists is not of decisive importance here: you will have to have some kind of fastening groove on the joist, but it is not necessary to strictly maintain the spacing of the boards. To attach the same panels to horizontal joists, two people need to install them according to a template, and the boards will have to be fastened with an assistant. In addition, the horizontal sheathing under the horizontal cladding must be two-level - without ventilation, the walls will become damp under the cladding. But the “horizontal to horizontal” skin can withstand gusts of wind up to hurricane force. Therefore, if you live in a place where there is something like the Novorossiysk forest, it is better to mount it this way.
Siding selection
Material
Siding is made of plastic (PVC, polyisopropylene), metal (galvanized steel, aluminum) and natural wood. Last on outdoors is unstable, despite any impregnation, therefore it is used either with special requirements for design and prestige (bottom left in the figure at the beginning), or in the interior (in the same place, bottom center). Aluminum siding is very impressive, but expensive, requires special tools and highly skilled workers, so it is not considered further.
Vinyl siding is the cheapest and most common, top left in Fig. at the beginning. Its surface can imitate not only the color, but also the texture of the sample material (wood, stone, etc.). Working with it is not much more difficult than with cardboard. PVC siding is durable enough for all regions of the country, except for the highlands and the Far North, where there are often strong winds and frosts. In these places, you need to take propylene from plastic, it is 10-15% more expensive.
However, in southern areas, and in the same mountains, plastic siding exhibits an unpleasant property: 3-7 years after installation, without losing strength, it takes on a somewhat sloppy appearance. The reason is microcracks formed under the influence of ultraviolet radiation and dust that accumulates in them. Washing doesn't do any good; It can be restored using special silicone compounds for renewing plastic car parts. But they are expensive, and the surface area of a house is not that of a bumper or spoiler; replacing the trim turns out to be much cheaper.
Metal siding (top center in the picture at the beginning) is completely insensitive to UV. Painting it, computer controlled, gives a non-repeating color. Metal siding “under a log” (block house) can be distinguished from real perfectly debarked logs only by scratching. Which, by the way, is very difficult - the paint is incredibly durable.
Metal siding costs about the same as plastic siding, but it has some disadvantages:
- Requires high evenness of the sheathing: if plastic board 2.4 m long can be bent in the middle to a break of 3-4 inches, then the metal one breaks already at a deflection of an inch. And the permissible installation deflection is no more than 1/3 of the breaking one, and even that should be avoided.
- Not as durable as PVC and especially propylene. It gets crushed by a good blow from the fist or head of a slipping person.
- Does not allow receiving small, e.g. wood, texture.
- The labor intensity of work on it is much higher.
The last point requires some clarification. You cannot cut metal siding with a grinder; heat and vibration far away from the cut will damage the protective coating. Metal scissors distort the edges of the profile, which is not always possible to hide under the extensions, especially for a novice craftsman. And the extensions also need to be cut, but they are always in sight. All that remains is either a hacksaw for metal with fine teeth, but when sheathing you have to make hundreds of cuts. Or - a special guillotine machine with a set of profile knives, very expensive.
Both plastic and metal siding are produced for cladding both walls and plinths. Basement siding is shorter (panels up to 1.165 m long versus 6 m), wider (440 mm) and thicker (20 mm). It is more expensive, but stronger, looks very impressive, perfectly imitating natural stone, therefore it is successfully used for cladding not only plinths, but also the entire external surface of buildings (top right in the figure at the beginning). Working methods and additions for basement siding are different than for regular siding, see below.
Based on the above, we can give the following recommendations for siding cladding of private houses:
- IN middle lane, approximately between the St. Petersburg-Ekaterinburg and Voronezh-Volgograd lines, and in the south of Siberia - any, based on available funds. The cheapest and easiest to work with is vinyl.
- In the Southern Federal District, on Far East south of Khabarovsk-Komsomolsk-on-Amur and in Kamchatka north to Parapolsky Dol - metal siding or frost-resistant (-60/+60) vinyl.
- In the northern regions - plastic propylene, frost-resistant PVC for strong local winds, or metal if the weather is mostly calm.
To point 2. There is a lot of UV in Primorye in clear weather; Vladivostok lies on the same latitude as Sochi. But in the summer clear weather It doesn’t always happen there – the monsoon blows and brings rain. Therefore, for 10 years or more you can get by with plastic.
About combined cladding
Covering the entire house with basement siding will cost a pretty penny - it is two or three times more expensive than usual. On the other hand, many private houses are built with pilasters. To trace all these corners - an excessive amount of ordinary siding will be wasted. In this case, it would be best to allocate 10-12% for cladding. more money, and sheathe the house using a combined method: the planes are with ordinary boards, and the pilasters are with plinth panels; they are precisely adapted to work in small areas. The result can be even more elegant than with a continuous plinth paneling (bottom right in the picture at the beginning), but is not much more expensive than conventional paneling.
About the panel profile
As for the profile of the panels, which determines the appearance of the cladding, it can be anything you choose, see fig.
In terms of operational parameters, all profiles are approximately equivalent. You just need to meet three conditions:
- Within one surface (wall, pediment), the cladding should be carried out with only one profile. Place panels next to each other different types You can't do it for the sake of beauty.
- Use only accessories that are complete with panels, purchased together with them from the same batch.
- Adjacent surfaces, the ends of the panels of which are included in one extension (corner walls, etc.), should also be sheathed with the same profile.
Video: seller’s opinion on choosing siding
Material calculation
Step 1
Now you need to calculate the required amount of material. First, determine the size of the sheathed area. There are no problems with walls, windows and doors. The pediment is another matter. Proprietary methods recommend calculating its area using Heron’s formula, but it requires three measurements, one having to be taken from a ladder, and two by climbing on the roof with a tape measure. And if the house has an attic, a roof with kinks, and even an unequal one (for the sake of a larger living space, people resort to such tricks), then the error of an experienced craftsman may exceed the permissible one, or a good share of the material will have to be “wasted” in advance.
In fact, it is better to take measurements with a long cord and a plumb line, see fig. The areas of a triangle and a trapezoid are calculated using simple school formulas, and the required lengths can be easily accurately measured below by dropping the cord and plumb line. You can make precise marks on the cords by climbing the stairs just once. A mark on the pediment is needed in case you have to re-measure. It is applied with chalk.
Then the number of sheathing panels is calculated. The area of one panel is calculated by subtracting the width of the fastening strip and the lock tooth from its width. For the case shown in Fig. on the right, it will be 229 mm, and the area of one board 4.8 m long is 1.1 sq. m. For scraps, experienced craftsmen reserve an area of 3-5% (siding in this regard is very economical); for beginners it is better to take it at 5-7%.
The next stage is calculating the quantity and nomenclature of additional items. There is no single methodology for all occasions, because... all houses are different. Therefore, a beginner must definitely draw a diagram of the cladding of all surfaces and, working with it, select the additions. At the same time, you can more accurately calculate the required number of panels.
Note: Siding panels are available in lengths from 1.2 to 6 m. Long wall It is advisable to sheathe it so that it covers a whole number of boards along the length. In extreme cases - 1.5, 2.5, 3.5, etc. boards Based on this, a sheathing scheme is built.
Step 2
The next step is to calculate the nomenclature and number of additional elements. There are many dozens of their varieties on sale, but the vast majority of them are required for complex buildings architectural forms. For ordinary houses, you can almost always get by with the following, see figure:
- cladding panels (boards);
- CD profile or timber for sheathing;
- platband (about them, see below, about windows);
- complex angles, external and internal, there are simple angles, but it is almost never possible to get by with them;
- soffit - a panel with ventilation holes for covering eaves;
- starting profile;
- finishing profile, very often replaced by a J-profile, see point 10;
- H-molding is a profile for connecting cladding panels if two or more panels need to be laid along the length of the wall.
- wall ebb (aquilon);
- J-profile, also known as J-channel, is a universal clamping element.
The trim strip is replaced with J-profile if the last highest trim panel has to be cut 1/4 or so of the width. In this case, the J-profile holds it better than the standard finish. If the topmost board comes out whole or cut off by about half, then a standard finishing strip is needed. These recommendations are valid for the most popular double siding, shiplap and herringbone.
For single siding, the finish is replaced with a J-profile if the last board is cut more than halfway. For triple and multiple widths, you should follow this scheme:
- If the longitudinal cut falls on the low (closest to the wall) part of the tooth, leave the standard finish.
- If you have to cut closer to the top of the tooth, replace it with a J-profile.
Errors and negligence
The following is unacceptable when calculating extras:
- Replace the starting profile with a J-bar. It does not fix, but only holds the panel. And since a whole number of boards in width along the height of the walls are rarely laid, a standard finishing strip is not always installed. And it turns out that the casing is not latched at the top and bottom; This one is blown away by a wind of 7-12 m/s.
- Replace the H-molding with two J-profiles, with their backs facing each other. Water, dust, and dirt will definitely penetrate into the gap between them.
- Save on aquilon if the house is built overhanging the base, as in Fig. higher. After covering, the standard teardropper stops working.
Note: It is also unacceptable for sanitary reasons to replace the starting profile with a J-bar - it then becomes a trough in which water stagnates.
About joining boards
If there is a whole number of boards along the length of the wall, they are joined with H-moldings (on the left in the figure), and if there is a half-integer number, they are joined apart (also on the right). The latter method is in some cases more aesthetically pleasing, but overall much worse. Firstly, the wind resistance of the skin decreases, and secondly, moisture inevitably penetrates through the cracks under the skin. And from there she has nowhere to go except into the wall.
Let's start covering: technology and flaws
Working with siding is technologically very simple, but requires mandatory adherence to three rules, see figure:
- do not overtighten the locks and fasteners, leave a gap of about 1 mm;
- fasten the boards by driving hardware in the middle of the mounting windows, and not at the edge;
- Do not push the sheathing elements into the extensions closely, leave a gap of 5-7 mm.
These conditions are dictated by the magnitude thermal expansion panels, which is up to 12 mm along the length of the board and up to 1 mm along its width. Without observing them, the sheathing will inevitably swell or break the fasteners with the extensions.
Note: the maximum step for fastening panels is 1.2 m, and for extensions – 0.6 m. But one piece of any length must have at least 3 fastening points, along the edges and in the middle. There is no need to carefully maintain the step, as long as the fasteners fit in the middle of the joist.
The actual laying of the panels is carried out in the following sequence:
- We remove gutters, window and door frames;
- we make the sheathing, the outermost logs should be exactly at the corners;
- Use a hose level to mark the line for installing the starting profile; it should be no lower than 12 mm from the uppermost corner of the base;
- install external corners;
- put the aquilon;
- set the starting profile;
- insert the board into the grooves of the corners with the lock facing down and push it into the start until it clicks;
- check the play vertically and sideways;
- we attach the board to the joists at the mounting edge;
- We place the remaining boards in the same way from bottom to top, snapping each one into the previous one and fastening it to the joists;
- insert the last board into the penultimate one WITHOUT FIXING, mark its desired height and cut it to the width;
- reapply the last board WITHOUT FIXING, outline its edge along the joists;
- we install the finishing or J-profile, moving its back upward from the marks by 6 mm;
- bending slightly, insert the edges last board into the corners, its cut edge into the finish or J-profile, and push it up until the lock snaps into place.
Note: if windows and doors will also be framed with siding, then first of all they need to be sorted out, leveling the slopes and frames exactly to rectangularity. But it’s best to do without this, see below.
About the “soft start”
Sometimes, for the sake of aesthetics, starting profiles are first placed at the beginning of the cladding, and the mounting surfaces of the corners are trimmed along them, as shown in Fig. bottom right. But such a technique, generally speaking, does not justify itself. The edges of the corners are almost invisible both at the top and bottom of the wall, and their unsupported tips soon begin to warp and are now conspicuous.
About insulation
Insulation under siding is elementary simple: after installing the dowels for the gutter brackets (see below), but before installing the sheathing, we apply a vapor barrier to the wall, and after assembling the sheathing, we place foam boards. There must be a ventilation gap of 10-15 mm between the underside of the sheathing and the foam plastic.
There is only one drawback here: some overuse of hardware-fungi (or umbrellas) with which the foam is attached to the wall. One fungus can no longer hold 4 adjacent angle insulation, as with continuous sheathing with durable EPS, so for each polystyrene foam board you will need 5 mushrooms arranged in an envelope. But both in terms of money and labor costs, such an overexpenditure is a mere pittance compared to the general reduction in cost/simplification of sheathing and insulation work.
Video: siding technology
Peculiarities
The technique described above is suitable for covering a blank wall, but these are found as an exception, and pediments are always not rectangles. When covering a real facade, you have to work around its structural elements, which we will now look into.
Gutters
When dismantling the gutters, their brackets are also removed. The holes for them are widened for propylene dowels, into which the old (or new) brackets will then go, and the dowels are driven into them before installing the sheathing. Next we proceed like this:
- On the previous board and corner before the next dowel, mark the coordinates of the hole.
- In the next board after installing it, we drill it according to the coordinates, 12-15 mm wider than the diameter of the bracket, not the dowel! If, say, the bracket pin is 10 mm, then the hole should be 22-25 mm in diameter.
- Once the sheathing is complete, we drive the brackets into the dowels.
- We caulk the gap between the bracket and the casing with foam rubber, neoprene (a strip of household toilet sponge), etc. soft porous material.
- We cut the caulking so that it protrudes above the caulking by 1-2 mm.
- We apply a layer of silicone sealant 1-2 mm.
Such insulation will reliably protect the casing from moisture getting under it along the bracket pin. At the same time, cured silicone is quite elastic, and thin layer stretches like rubber and will not interfere with thermal deformation of the panels.
Windows-doors
To frame window openings, special siding parts are produced: slope profiles, platbands, window aquilons, etc. But the very diversity of their assortment speaks more to the fact that the siding is designed for covering large areas and it is difficult to frame openings with it.
In general, there are two schemes for framing windows with siding: overlay and butt, see fig. The first method better protects against moisture penetration under the skin, but the second is more aesthetically pleasing. In any case, the windows and doors will have to be trimmed and repaired before covering.
But the best way is not to go into the windows with siding at all. To do this, around each opening they make continuous sheathing(on the left in the next figure) and frame it with a J-profile, as shown there on the right. The opening is simply surrounded by siding, and then decorated using window and door technologies. This method also has the advantage that the windows/doors can then be finished slowly one by one, and not all at once “take more - throw further”.
Pediments
There are two features in gable cladding. Firstly, they complete the pediment with J-profiles, because the usual finishing strip does not hold the panel in an inclined position, and special cornice roads are almost never on sale.
Secondly, when covering the pediment both horizontally and vertically, you need to cut the ends of the boards exactly at an angle. This is done by cutting the panel, as shown in Fig. on the right: the board is inserted into the molding, the cut is marked, the board is removed, cut, inserted again into the groove of the profile or the lock of the previous one and pushed into the J-profile. It is most convenient for a beginner to sheathe a pediment divided vertically in half (or into 3 parts, if there is a window) with H-molding.
Note: It is possible to sheathe the pediment at the same time as the wall only if they are laid out at the same time from brick. If the pediment differs in any way from the wall, the sheathing between them must be divided by horizontally laid H-molding. If the pediment also has a ledge inward, then the wall must be completed with a finish, and the pediment must be started with an aquilon and a start, like a wall.
Cornices
For high-quality design of cornices, you may need, firstly, a special cornice molding, on the left in Fig. Then the piers are decorated on top with a J-profile and a special cornice strip with a groove for soffits, in the center in Fig. Finally, the frames for the soffits are decorated inside with the same J-profiles, and the soffits at the corner joints are separated by H-moldings. In general, the story with cornices turns out to be the same as with windows: covering them with siding is justified when performed by a team of trained professionals who hand over the covering on a turn-key basis “like candy.” And for myself better later slowly finish it to your taste; siding on the gable wouldn't hurt.
About metal siding
You need to work doubly carefully with metal siding; it can bend irreversibly under its own weight if you hold the board flat by the edge. Secondly, the additions for metal siding are different from those for plastic, see Fig., but for a blockhouse they have their own special ones. Cutting metal siding has already been discussed, and the assembly diagram for it is generally the same as for plastic siding, see next. rice. on right.
For a beginner who is planning to “metalize” a house, it is better to do it with a blockhouse. Its smooth profile (in the middle in the figure) provides enough high rigidity both bending and torsion, so putting metal siding under a log is not much more difficult than plastic. The only significant difficulty that remains is cutting.
Note: When installing a blockhouse, you should especially be wary of skewing and jamming of panels. If the plastic from a lock that accidentally snaps into place can still be torn back without damaging it, then metal cannot. Both the board and the board were missing.
Base covering
Basement siding is covered from the bottom up, just like other sidings. It has the following nuances:
- Basement and wall siding must be taken from the same manufacturer and paired with each other.
- Sheathing with basement siding is carried out only “horizontally across horizontally” and, first of all, before sheathing the walls.
- No insulation is done.
- The positions of the lags are marked from the top of the base; unevenness relative to the ground is compensated for by cementing, blind areas, etc.
- During the process of assembling the covering, an additional operation appears - cutting the panels for the entrance to the corner (see figure), so careful calculation of the covering is necessary so that too much material is not wasted.
- The panels are connected to each other by two locks, bottom and side, so you need to install them very carefully until you develop the skill. The exception is the first row, which slides in the starting profile.
To pp. 1 and 2 require clarification. The fact is that the basement siding ends not with a finish or some special basement J-profile (by the way, all the additions under the basement are also special), but with a basement curb. This border will also be the starting profile for the wall cladding; aquilon is not needed. It is clear that “someone else’s” or your own, but not adjusted to this particular plinth, wall siding may not fit into the curb. And if the wall was sheathed earlier, then the upper border, even if it stands up to the removal of the plinth, will turn out to be a water collector, and there is no way to fit an aquilon on top of it.
Tree
Wooden siding is the same plank, and the techniques for working with it are the same, see figure:
- Start – rectangular plank.
- The inner corner is a square rail.
- The outer corner is a cladding board sawn lengthwise, assembled overlay or flush.
- Assembly - on nails, according to the diagram in Fig. on the right in the top row.
- Fasteners wood siding There is no way to hide it, so the upholstery is treated with liquid nails to match the wood after assembly. At the same time, the joints are sealed, which, provided they are pre-impregnated with a fungicide, negates the likelihood of bugs or mold appearing in the sheathed room. Outside - as nature wills.
