Large debris in the workshop can always be swept away and taken to a landfill in bags. But what to do with dust, metal or wood shavings, as well as numerous other microscopic industrial wastes? The purchase can take a toll on your wallet. But a regular vacuum cleaner will not cope with such a job. But if you make your own cyclone for a vacuum cleaner or even your own construction vacuum cleaner, you can save yourself from a number of problems!
Why do you need a cyclone filter?
Construction, metal or wood dust appears to be completely harmless. But this is only at first glance. Working in a room where a lot of dust has accumulated can harm the respiratory system and cause serious illness. And the instruments will deteriorate from the endless stream of garbage. There may be several reasons:
- Dust gets into the tool and onto the lubricant inside it. As a result, it overheats and fails.
- If the device has moving parts, then dust may well hinder their operation and also lead to breakdowns in the future.
- Dust can clog special ventilation holes that are designed to cool the instrument. The result is overheating and breakdown again.
Cyclone filter will ensure the collection of any waste in production without harm to the vacuum cleaner.
Principle of operation
Using an aerodynamic air flow, the filter will bind dust particles together. In turn, centrifugal force begins to act, pressing them against the walls of the container. And then gravity causes the debris to settle to the bottom.
There are many diagrams showing the operation of cyclone filters. One of them can be seen below.
Cyclone filter device
You can make this or a similar filter yourself. There are a huge variety of design options, but they all have one thing in common – the principle of operation. Any design will consist of:
- A regular vacuum cleaner (preferably a powerful one);
- Cyclone filter;
- Containers that collect garbage.
Throughout the entire structure. In normal condition, it is designed for cleaning the house, sucking up small debris and dust. In this case, a cyclone filter appears, which means the length of the air duct will be increased almost three times, and accordingly the load on the device will be greater. The design turns out to be quite massive, unlike a conventional vacuum cleaner, so this trick is necessary to ensure that the hose is long enough for comfortable cleaning.
DIY construction vacuum cleaner: what you need
As mentioned above, you can use a regular household vacuum cleaner. But many masters are not attracted to this option, so the best solution becomes a homemade unit.
In order to make such a device, even if it has survived from the distant Soviet past. This is the advantage that homemade vacuum cleaners can be made from unnecessary old units.
So, from the vacuum cleaner we extract the following elements:
- Motor;
- Cord connecting the device to the network;
- Power control device;
- Suction corrugation.
For the body, prepare:
- Plastic pipe with a diameter of 5 cm;
- Container with lid;
- A sheet of plywood about 0.5 cm thick;
- 14 nuts and bolts M6 each;
- Galvanized sheet metal strip;
- Car filter (from a minibus);
- Switch – 220 V;
- Sealant;
- Sandpaper;
- Glue gun sticks;
- Corrugated hose (can be from a washing machine);
- Threaded rod with nuts and washers;
- Electrical corrugation PND32.
It’s worth preparing the tools right away:
- Drill;
- Glue gun;
- Sealant gun;
- Locksmith keys;
- Screwdrivers;
- Jigsaw;
- Wire cutters.
Manufacturing
At a distance of approximately 10 centimeters from the top of the container, we make a hole into which we connect the pipe. The hole should be an oval, even shape. The pipe is placed in it at a slightly downward angle, tightly adjacent to the wall. Glue gun it is necessary to fix the result obtained, as in image 2.
A pipe inserted into a pre-made hole in a barrel
We attach an adapter from the inside to connect the suction hose.
We cut out two circles approximately half the size of the lid, and drill holes for the bolts. The parts are attached on both sides. Afterwards, other circles are drilled, and their surface is cleared of burrs using sandpaper. We cover the perimeter of the product with sealant, after which they are installed and finally secured. The hole for the pin is made in the center. A little to the left there will be a larger hole for air intake.
Location of the stud and air vent hole
We will need an air filter without a mesh (it will become clogged with debris, which is extremely unprofitable) in which it is placed. It must be removed with pliers. One side of the cylinder should be closed with a plywood plug. The filter is secured to the stud with a nut.
By the way, the filter will help not only get rid of dust, but also prevent the inhalation of dangerous small particles, such as toner. If you use a regular vacuum cleaner in in this case, the bags easily become clogged with toner dust. In this case, all particles will settle in the collection container.
To make it more convenient to attach, you can cut it together with the plastic parts. To secure it to the lid, you will need a clamp, which can be made from a strip of tin.
The switch and regulator are located nearby. After this, all parts are connected to each other with wires, and the wire and plug are connected.
Make sure that everything is connected correctly and there are no exposed wires, and only then check the operation of the device.
Location of the motor, switch and power regulator
The length of the suction hose is usually not enough, so it is extended using a corrugated pipe.
Standard vacuum cleaner attachments will help bring order to any workshop. They can also be used to connect to equipment for direct waste collection, using simple adapters.
So, your homemade cyclone-type construction vacuum cleaner is ready!
What to do if you can’t make a vacuum cleaner yourself?
Of course, not everyone wants to make a vacuum cleaner from scratch, and necessary details may not be. In that case, great regular will do household vacuum cleaner, better with high power. Next, you will simply need to make a cyclone filter for it, which will not require high costs. Most often it is made from traffic cone or buckets. Let's consider both options.
A drawing of a homemade cyclone can be seen below.
Cyclone drawing
Traffic cone cyclone
Simple and in a fast way To build a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner directly with your own hands is to make it from a traffic cone.
What is needed for the job?
Once the production of the cyclone will be carried out with my own hands, need to prepare necessary tools And Consumables. So we prepare:
- Traffic cone;
- Plastic pipes (approximately 40 mm)
- Angle 45 degrees;
- Plywood;
- Pieces of laminated chipboard;
- Glue gun and sticks;
- A container with a lid, possibly for paint.
Let's start making
First, we take plywood to make a lid to cover the cone. Cutting out a circle required diameter, and cut two holes in it. One will be in the middle, the second parallel to the edge, as in Figure 6.
Circle made of plywood with holes for air inlet and outlet
A pipe inserted into one of the holes
A pipe must also be inserted into the second hole, but a 45-degree angle is placed on top of it. It is as the air moves through it that it will spin into a vortex. The angle is located inside the cone.
Angle position for proper air circulation in the cyclone
Afterwards the pipe is glued as in the case of the first one. The lid is ready. Next it is glued into the cone.
The tip of the cone must be cut off. Afterwards, it is inserted into the lid of the bucket in the center into a pre-prepared hole. The attachment point is glued. WITH inside the lid must be reinforced with pieces of chipboard. Afterwards they are tightened together with self-tapping screws.
The result is a product like in Figure 9.
Ready product
Cyclone filter from a bucket
One more simple material To make a cyclone filter, you can use an ordinary bucket, you can even use one from under paint. The volume must be calculated based on the power of the vacuum cleaner - this is approximately 1 liter of capacity for every 80-100 W.
The bucket must have a hermetically sealed lid, and the shape of the container itself must be round!
To make it you will need:
- Bucket with a lid (can be from under building mixtures);
- Compass;
- 2 elbows 90 and 45 degrees;
- Plastic pipe;
- Silicone;
- Rubber or O-rings;
- Stationery knife;
- Glue gun.
Manufacturing
We make holes in the lid. You can use a factory compass, or you can use a homemade one. Screw two self-tapping screws into the wooden strip at a distance of exactly 2.7 centimeters from each other.
The center of each hole is marked 4 cm from the edge. Next, circles for the pipes are cut out at the marked locations.
We insert the elbow tightly into the socket, having previously applied silicone to its side. On the inside of the product, a seal is pulled onto the socket. If necessary, crimp with a clamp. It will look like in Figure 10.
Insert the pipes into the bucket lid, turning the angle correctly
WITH outside the inlet pipe is almost flush with the lid. On the reverse side, the knee is directed by the rotating part to the center of the bucket. But for the desired effect, it is equipped with a 45-degree turn, which is directed obliquely downwards as in Figure 11.
View from reverse side
The second pipe, which will draw air, is located in the opposite direction. An elbow is inserted into it so that air is drawn in from the wall of the bucket. It is necessary in each case to use o-rings; they will securely secure the pipes and prevent them from rotating.
We conclude that you can make a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands quickly and easily, using available tools. The output should be something like the one in the figure below.
Cyclone filter connected to a household vacuum cleaner
Difficulties that you may encounter during work
Create your own cyclone filter, or even homemade vacuum cleaner, as we have seen, is not difficult, if you have the necessary materials.
In some cases, it is recommended to take metal containers for collecting garbage, as they are considered stronger. If you have a vacuum cleaner with enormous power, the plastic bucket can “collapse,” so to speak. It is drawn inward due to strong flow intake air. This happens extremely rarely, but it is better to immediately provide for this option. It can be leveled, but the damage to the product will be obvious. So you always need to take into account the quality of the plastic and the power of the device. In the case of a traffic cone, this problem does not arise.
Today we will tell you about a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner in the workshop, because one of the problems that we have to deal with when working with wood is dust removal. Industrial equipment is quite expensive, so we will make a cyclone with our own hands - it’s not difficult at all.
What is a cyclone and why is it needed?
In a workshop there is almost always a need to remove fairly large debris. Sawdust, small trimmings, metal shavings - all this, in principle, can be caught by a regular vacuum cleaner filter, but it is highly likely to quickly become unusable. In addition, it will not be superfluous to have the opportunity to clean and liquid waste.
The cyclone filter uses aerodynamic vortex to bind debris different sizes. Spinning in a circle, the debris manages to stick together to such a consistency that it can no longer be carried away by the air flow and settles at the bottom. This effect almost always occurs if the air flow passes through a cylindrical container at sufficient speed.
These types of filters are included in many industrial vacuum cleaners, but their cost is by no means affordable for the average person. At the same time, the range of problems solved using homemade devices, not at all anymore. The homemade cyclone can be used both in conjunction with planes, hammer drills or jigsaws, and for removing sawdust or shavings from various kinds machine tools In the end, even simple cleaning with such a device is much easier, because the bulk of dust and debris settles in a container, from where it can be easily removed.
Difference between wet and dry cyclone
To create a swirling flow, the main requirement is that the air entering the container does not follow the shortest path to the exhaust hole. To do this, the inlet pipe must have a special shape and be directed either to the bottom of the container or tangentially to the walls. Exhaust duct Using a similar principle, it is recommended to make it rotary, optimally if it is directed towards the cover of the device. The increase in aerodynamic drag due to pipe bends can be neglected.
As already mentioned, a cyclone filter has the potential to remove liquid waste as well. With liquid, everything is somewhat more complicated: the air in the pipe and cyclone is partially rarefied, which promotes the evaporation of moisture and its breaking into very small droplets. Therefore, the inlet pipe must be located as close as possible to the surface of the water or even lowered under it.
In the majority washing vacuum cleaners Air is supplied to the water through a diffuser, so any moisture contained in it is effectively dissolved. However, for greater versatility with a minimum number of alterations, it is not recommended to use such a scheme.
Made from scrap materials
The simplest and affordable option For the cyclone container there will be a bucket of paint or other building mixtures. The volume should be comparable to the power of the vacuum cleaner used, approximately one liter for every 80-100 W.
The bucket lid must be intact and fit tightly onto the body of the future cyclone. It will have to be modified by making a couple of holes. Regardless of the material of the bucket, the easiest way to make holes of the required diameter is to use homemade compass. IN wooden slats you need to screw in two self-tapping screws so that their tips are at a distance of 27 mm from each other, no more, no less.
The centers of the holes should be marked 40 mm from the edge of the cover, preferably so that they are as far apart as possible. Both metal and plastic can be scratched perfectly with this homemade instrument, forming smooth edges with virtually no burrs.
The second element of the cyclone will be a set of sewer elbows at 90º and 45º. Let us draw your attention in advance that the position of the corners must correspond to the direction of air flow. Their fastening in the housing cover is carried out according to the following scheme:
- The elbow is inserted all the way into the side of the socket. Silicone sealant is first applied under the side.
- On the reverse side, a rubber sealing ring is pulled tightly onto the socket. To be sure, you can additionally compress it with a screw clamp.
The inlet pipe is located with a narrow rotating part inside the bucket, the socket is located on the outside almost flush with the lid. The knee needs to be given another 45º turn and directed obliquely downwards and tangentially to the wall of the bucket. If the cyclone is manufactured with the expectation of wet cleaning, you should increase the outer elbow with a piece of pipe, reducing the distance from the bottom to 10-15 cm.
The exhaust pipe is located in the reverse position and its socket is located under the bucket lid. You also need to insert one elbow into it so that air is taken from the wall or make two turns for suction from under the center of the lid. The latter is preferable. Don’t forget about the O-rings; for a more reliable fixation and to prevent the knees from turning, you can wrap them with plumber’s tape.
How to adapt the device for machines and tools
To be able to draw in waste when using manual and stationary tools, you will need a system of adapters. Typically, a vacuum cleaner hose ends in a curved tube, the diameter of which is comparable to the fittings for dust bags of power tools. As a last resort, you can seal the joint with several layers of double-sided mirror tape wrapped in vinyl tape to eliminate stickiness.
With stationary equipment everything is more complicated. Dust extraction systems have very different configurations, especially for homemade machines, so we can only give a few useful recommendations:
- If the machine's dust extractor is designed for a 110 mm or larger hose, use plumbing adapters with a 50 mm diameter to connect the corrugated hose of the vacuum cleaner.
- To connect homemade machines to a dust catcher, it is convenient to use press fittings for 50 mm HDPE pipes.
- When designing the dust collector housing and outlet, take advantage of the convection flow created by the tool's moving parts for greater efficiency. For example: a pipe for removing sawdust from circular saw must be directed tangentially to the saw blade.
- Sometimes it is necessary to provide dust suction from different sides of the workpiece, for example, for band saw or a router. Use 50 mm sewer tees and corrugated drain hoses.
Which vacuum cleaner and connection system to use
Usually, you don’t choose a vacuum cleaner for a homemade cyclone yourself, but use the one that is available. However, there are a number of limitations beyond the power mentioned above. If you want to continue using the vacuum cleaner for domestic purposes, then at a minimum you will need to find an additional hose.
The beauty of the sewer elbows used in the design is that they ideally match the diameter of the most common hoses. Therefore, the spare hose can be safely cut into 2/3 and 1/3, the shorter section should be connected to the vacuum cleaner. The other, longer piece, as is, is tucked into the socket of the cyclone inlet pipe. The maximum that is required in this place is to seal the connection silicone sealant or plumber's tape, but usually the planting density is quite high. Especially if there is an o-ring.
The video shows another example of making a cyclone for dust removal in a workshop
To pull a short piece of hose onto the exhaust pipe, the outermost part of the corrugated pipe will have to be leveled. Depending on the diameter of the hose, it may be more convenient to tuck it inside. If the straightened edge does not fit slightly onto the pipe, it is recommended to warm it a little with a hairdryer or indirect flame gas burner. The latter is considered excellent option, because this way the connection will be positioned optimally in relation to the direction of the moving flow.
Cyclonic designs of household vacuum cleaners are considered one of the most good options technology in terms of operational efficiency.
The cyclone system is a relatively simple separation mechanism that makes it possible to effectively filter suspended particles present in the air stream.
Based on the theoretical principles of constructing such a system, it is quite possible to create a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner, acting as additional tool– for example, a construction separator.
Externally, a cyclone separator can be characterized as a cylindrical vessel, the lower part of which has a cone-shaped design. The upper part of the vessel contains two openings - inlet and outlet, through which the air flow enters and exits, respectively.
At the bottom of the vessel - along the edge of the conical part - there is also a hole through which the sifted (filtered) debris comes out.
One of the upper holes (inlet) is equipped with a channel, due to which the incoming air flow enters the cyclone along a tangential line.
Considering cylindrical shape design, the incoming flow moves in a circle, creating a vortex effect. The resulting centrifugal force throws suspended particles contained in the flow to the periphery.
Classic design of a cyclone separator: inlet and outlet channels, housing (cylindrical conical) of the upper and lower cyclone; filter and waste bin
The other hole, the outlet, also has a channel, but located strictly perpendicular to the incoming channel.
Thanks to this arrangement of the second channel, the air movement changes from a vortex state to a strictly vertical one, which eliminates the capture of already screened suspended particles.
In turn, the screened particles of debris, once on the periphery, move down along the walls of the vessel, reach the conical part and through the outlet hole enter the garbage collector. This, in fact, is the simplest operating principle of a cyclone separator.
Step-by-step instructions for assembling a cyclone
It is quite possible to perform a cyclone from suitable materials with your own hands. Such a separate filter can be successfully used, for example, as an additional accessory to a construction tool:
- jigsaw;
- hammer drill;
- electric drills, etc.
The operation of such construction tools is often accompanied by a significant release of dust and small particles of various types.
Meanwhile modern designs construction tools are equipped with a special channel for removing working waste directly during operation.
One of the many different designs construction vacuum cleaner, where a cyclone filter is used as an additional accessory. An effective tool for clean work
But in order to use this channel, you need a cyclone or, in extreme cases, a vacuum cleaner specifically designed for construction purposes.
Options for making a homemade cyclone may vary. It all depends on the one used material base and the performer’s vision of the project.
However, in any case, it is necessary to adhere to the technological criteria that determine correct work separator:
- Body shape.
- Location of input and output channels.
- Proportions in the sizes of components.
That is, the cyclone design must provide both the flow swirling effect and effective waste separation. Let's look at a step-by-step do-it-yourself execution of one of the possible projects.
Step 1 - Tools and Basic Materials
Of the materials required for the production of a cyclone, you will need:
- plastic plumbing pipe 125-150 mm long, 50 mm in diameter;
- plastic plumbing corner 30º;
- two plastic buckets for 10 and 5 liters;
- sheet plywood;
- standard vacuum cleaner hose.
The set of tools for making a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner and assembling it yourself includes: an electric drill with a set of drills (including a 50 mm crown); electric jigsaw; measuring and drawing tools; screwdrivers, knife, clamp.
Step 2 - making the body and other parts
The first step is to make the cylindrical part. For this, a small (five-liter) plastic bucket is used. The upper part of the bucket, made in the form of a side, is cut off taking into account the remaining smooth edges along the cut line.
Carrying out markings for making a ring that will act as a collar cylindrical part(housing) of the future cyclone separator
The resulting cylindrical container, resembling a small cone, is turned upside down, placed on a sheet of plywood and outlined in diameter.
Stepping back from the marked circle 30 mm to the periphery, mark another circle. Then a ring is cut out according to the markings.
Next, you need to cut out the shaped element, for which you use a wood cutting bit with a diameter of 50 mm and an electric jigsaw. The outer diameter of the hub of the figured element is equal to the inner diameter of the previously cut ring.
This is roughly what the finished components look like after completion: preparatory work how to make a cyclone with your own hands from widely used materials
As a result of the work carried out, two parts (as in the picture above) of the future cyclone separator, made of sheet plywood, are obtained.
Step 3 - connecting the workpieces to the cylinder
At this stage, a ring cut from plywood is put on and secured along the line of the upper edge on the cylindrical vessel prepared earlier from a small bucket.
Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws evenly around the entire circumference. The joints between the ring and the bucket in a circle are carefully sealed.
Fastening the plywood ring to the body of the small cyclone cylinder. It is advisable to pre-mark the holes and drill to a shallow depth for greater ease of screwing in the screws
The installed plywood ring must be supplemented on the side of the open part of the cylinder with a lid from a large plastic bucket.
But first, the lid should be marked and a hole cut exactly in the center, equal in diameter to the inner diameter of the plywood ring. Place the cut out part of the lid on the ring and secure it.
Laying a blank made from the lid of a large plastic bucket onto the plane of a plywood ring. It turns out to be a kind of connecting element of the cyclone separator with the waste container
Step 4 - installation of the inlet pipe
The inlet pipe is mounted in the bottom area of the prepared cylinder. Considering that when fully assembled, the small cylinder will be upside down, the pipe will be at the top point of the cyclone.
Having retreated approximately 10 mm from the plane of the bottom, a hole of 50 mm is cut using a crown. In order for the plumbing corner to fit tightly, the shape of the hole is adjusted to fit the “drop”.
Making a cyclone inlet channel using a plumbing angle. The use of an angle allows you to set the direction of flow strictly tangentially relative to the wall of the cyclone cylinder
The plumbing corner is treated with sealant, installed in the hole and fixed with self-tapping screws.
A similar operation is carried out to install the second outlet pipe. This is a segment plumbing pipe 100-150 mm, which is installed directly in the center of the bottom of the small cylinder.
As a result, after the measures taken, you should get a structure like the one in the picture below:
Making an outlet channel using a piece of plumbing pipe with a diameter of 50 mm. To strengthen the support of the channel during installation, a wooden overlay is used
For strength, the plumbing pipe is equipped with an additional shell made of plywood. It is advisable to make two such elements and install them on both sides of the bottom. After installation, tighten the dies with self-tapping screws. Of course, don’t forget to apply sealant at the joints.
Step 5 - installation of the figured element
One of important points assembling a cyclone with your own hands - installing a figured element previously made from a sheet of plywood. It is thanks to this element that an environment is formed inside the small cylinder of the cyclone that promotes effective separation.
The shaped element is mounted at a distance of approximately 10 mm from the edge of the open area of the cylinder. In this case, the plane of the shaped plate, directed inside the cylinder, should not be in contact with the outlet pipe.
The distance between the end edge of the pipe and the plane of the figure is 25-30 mm, but it is permissible to experimentally select the optimal distance.
Installation of a figured element - a plate cut from a sheet of plywood. During operation of the cyclone, this element performs a kind of cut-off function, preventing the capture of debris from the garbage container
After installing the plate strictly parallel to the bottom of the small cylinder, fastening is done with the same screws from the outer part of the cylinder, screwing the screws into the area tightly adjacent to the inner wall. Three or four screws are enough. It is not necessary to use sealant here.
Step 6 - complete assembly of the cyclone separator
Actually, after the installation of the figured plate is completed, the cyclone structure is actually assembled. All that remains is to “plant” the completed assembly of the small cylinder on the top of a large plastic bucket.
A fully assembled cyclone separator, made with your own hands from scrap materials. The design provides volumetric collection of construction waste and can be successfully used in everyday practice
The tight fit in this case is ensured by part of the area of the lid of the large bucket, which was previously mounted on the lower plane of the plywood ring of the small cylinder.
As can be seen from the measuring tape, the total height of the structure is a little more than 50 cm. At the same time, the garbage collection (lower part) is quite voluminous.
Subtleties of connecting a homemade cyclone
A self-assembled cyclone (filter for construction purposes) is connected for operation in a simple way.
The input (side) channel is connected by a corrugated flexible hose or other similar accessory with a working tool, for example, with an electric jigsaw channel.
The output channel (upper pipe) is connected directly to the input socket of the vacuum cleaner instead of the working nozzle.
Connection diagram - connecting a cyclone in pairs to a household vacuum cleaner and construction tools, the design of which supports the function of garbage suction
First, the vacuum cleaner is put into operation, then it is used for the necessary purposes. construction tool. As a result, the action being performed, for example, cutting a board electric jigsaw, passes without releasing chips and fine dust into the environment.
The by-product of the operation is completely sent to the cyclone separator where it is properly filtered.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
About how to build another one with your own hands - more simple design cyclone, the video below clearly shows and explains.
The author uses this homemade system in everyday practice and is extremely satisfied. A cyclone separator made from an ordinary bucket helps to work in clean conditions during economic construction work:
Self-assembly of a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner is acceptable and quite possible. Moreover, there are projects of similar “homemade” systems that can actually be made, if not in 2 minutes, then in a couple of hours. The resulting cyclone homemade production really worth spending some time making. Costs are fully reimbursed.
Article about how I did it homemade construction vacuum cleaner with a cyclone type filter. The performance of this useful homemade product for home You can appreciate it by watching a video of his work.
To demonstrate the work, I collected a bucket of sand. In general, I am satisfied with the result of the work done (given that this is a working prototype layout, so to speak).
I’ll say right away: this article is a statement of my history of creating my first (and, I think, not the last) homemade cyclone vacuum cleaner , and I am in no way going to impose anything on anyone, prove or claim that the solutions described here are the only correct and error-free ones. Therefore, I ask you to be understanding, so to speak, “understand and forgive.” I hope my little experience will be useful to “sick” people like me, for whom “a bad head does not give rest to their hands” (in the good sense of this expression).
I once thought about the upcoming renovation and the ensuing consequences in the form of dust, construction debris, etc. And since it is necessary to groove, saw concrete and “perforate”, the experience of the past suggested that it is necessary to look for a solution to these problems. It is expensive to buy a ready-made construction vacuum cleaner, and most of them are designed anyway with a filter (in some models even with a special “shaker”) or a paper bag + filter, which gets clogged, worsens traction, periodically requires replacement and also costs a lot of money. And I just became interested in this topic, and a “pure sporting interest” appeared, so to speak. In general, it was decided to make a cyclone vacuum cleaner. A lot of information was gleaned here: forum.woodtools.ru I did not carry out special calculations (for example, according to Bill Pentz), I did it from what came to hand and according to my own instinct. By chance, I came across this vacuum cleaner on an advertisement website (for 1,100 rubles) and very close to my place of residence. I looked at the parameters, they seem to suit me - he will be a donor!
I decided to make the cyclone body itself metal, because there were strong doubts about how long the plastic walls would last under the influence of “sandpaper” from a stream of sand and pieces of concrete. And also about static electricity when rubbish rubs against its walls, and I didn’t want the future homemade vacuum cleaner threw sparks at its users. And personally, I think that dust accumulation due to static will not have a positive effect on the operation of the cyclone.
The general scheme for constructing a vacuum cleaner is as follows:
The polluted air passes through a cyclone, in which large particles settle into the lower waste container. The rest goes through the car air filter, engine and through the outlet pipe to the outside. It was decided to make a pipe for the outlet as well, and the dimensions of the inlet and outlet should be the same. This will allow you to use a vacuum cleaner, for example, to blow something off. You can also use an additional hose to release the “exhaust” air outside so as not to raise dust in the room (this suggests the idea of installing this unit as a “built-in” stationary vacuum cleaner somewhere in the basement or on the balcony). Using two hoses at the same time, you can clean all kinds of filters without blowing dust around (blow with one hose, draw in with the other).
The air filter was chosen to be “flat”, not ring-shaped, so that when turned off, any debris that gets there falls into the garbage bin. If we take into account that only the dust remaining after the cyclone gets into the filter, then it will not be necessary to replace it soon, as in a regular construction vacuum cleaner with a filter without a cyclone. Moreover, the price of such a filter (about 130 rubles) is much cheaper than the “branded” ones that are used in industrial vacuum cleaners. You can also partially clean such a filter with a regular household vacuum cleaner by connecting it to the inlet pipe of the “cyclone”. In this case, garbage will not be sucked out of the garbage disposal. The filter mount is made dismountable to simplify its cleaning and replacement.
For the cyclone body, a suitable one was found very conveniently can, and the central pipe is made from a can of polyurethane foam.
The inlet pipe is made to fit a 50 mm plastic sewer pipe into which, with the appropriate rubber coupling The hose included in the vacuum cleaner is inserted quite tightly.
The second end of the pipe goes into a rectangle, so to speak, to “straighten” the flow. Its width was chosen based on the smallest diameter of the hose inlet (32 mm) so as not to clog. Approximate calculation: L= (3.14*50 mm - 2*32)/2=46.5 mm. Those. pipe cross-section 32*46 mm.
I assembled the entire structure by soldering with acid and a 100-watt soldering iron (it was practically the first time I worked with tin, except for soldering boats in childhood, so I apologize for the beauty of the seams)
The central pipe was soldered. The cone was made using a pre-fitted cardboard template.
The housing for the auto filter is also made using galvanized templates.
The upper part of the central pipe of the air duct was bent into the shape of a square and the lower hole of the autofilter housing (pyramid) was adjusted to it. Put it all together. I made three guides on the sides of the cyclone can to increase rigidity and fastening. The result is something like this “gravity”.
For the garbage disposal and the engine compartment I used 2 barrels of machine oil (60 liters). A little big, of course, but this is what we managed to find. I made holes in the bottom of the engine compartment for attaching the cyclone, and glued sponge rubber onto the contact surface of the garbage disposal to seal around the perimeter. After that, I cut a hole in the sidewall for the inlet pipe, taking into account the thickness of the rubber cuff.
The “gravitapu” cyclone was secured with M10 studs and nuts with fluoroplastic to prevent unscrewing due to vibration. Here and further, all places where tightness is necessary were connected with rubber seal(or rubber washers) and auto sealant.
To connect the engine compartment and the garbage bin I used latches from the military wooden boxes(special thanks to Igor Sanych!). I had to ferment them a little in a solvent and “adjust” them with a hammer. Fastened with rivets (with rubber gaskets from the chamber).
After that, for greater rigidity and noise reduction, I foamed the entire structure polyurethane foam. You can, of course, fill everything to the top, but I decided to play it safe in case the need arises to take it apart. In addition, everything turned out quite tough and strong.
For ease of movement and carrying of the garbage bin, I attached 2 door handles and 4 wheels with brakes. Since the waste container barrel has a flange at the bottom, to install the wheels it was necessary to make an additional “bottom” from a plastic sheet 10 mm thick. In addition, this made it possible to strengthen the bottom of the barrel so that it would not “squish” when the vacuum cleaner was running.
The base for attaching the filter funnel and the engine platform was made of chipboard with fastening to the barrel along the perimeter with furniture “Euro-screws”. To fix the engine platform, I glued 8 M10 bolts onto epoxy (I think 4 would be enough). Painted it. I sealed the perimeter of the filter installation site with sponge rubber.
When assembling, I coated the neck of the autofilter housing around the perimeter with sealant and tightened it to the base with flat-headed self-tapping screws.
The engine platform was made from 21 mm plywood. For a more uniform distribution of air over the filter area, I used a router to select a 7 mm recess in the area.
To collect the exhaust air and mount the engine, the plastic engine compartment found in the vacuum cleaner was used. “Everything unnecessary” was cut off from it and the outlet pipe was glued onto epoxy reinforced with self-tapping screws. Everything is assembled together using sealant and using metal profile(thick sponge rubber is inserted into it) is pulled to the engine platform with two long M12 bolts. Their heads are recessed flush into the platform and filled with hot-melt adhesive for tightness. Nuts with fluoroplastic to prevent unscrewing due to vibration.
Thus, a removable motor module was obtained. For easy access to the auto filter, it is secured using eight wing nuts. The oversized washers are glued (the shrouds have not escaped).
I made a hole for the outlet pipe.
I painted the entire “pepelats” black from a spray can, after sanding and degreasing.
The engine speed controller used the existing one (see photo), adding to it homemade circuit to automatically start the vacuum cleaner when you turn on the power tool.
Explanations for the homemade vacuum cleaner diagram:
Automatic devices (2-pole) QF1 and QF2 protect, respectively, the circuits for connecting power tools (socket XS1) and the speed control circuit of the vacuum cleaner engine. When the tool is turned on, its load current flows through diodes VD2-VD4 and VD5. They were selected from the reference book due to the large voltage drop across them with forward current. On a chain of three diodes, when one (let’s call it “positive”) half-wave of current flows, a pulsating voltage drop is created which, through fuse FU1, Schottky diode VD1 and resistor R2, charges capacitor C1. Fuse FU1 and varistor RU1 (16 Volt) protect the control circuit from damage due to overvoltage, which can occur, for example, due to a break (burnout) in the chain of diodes VD2-VD4. The Schottky diode VD1 is selected with a low voltage drop (to “save” the already small Volts) and prevents the discharge of capacitor C1 during the “negative” half-wave of the current through the diode VD5. Resistor R2 limits the charging current of capacitor C1. The voltage received at C1 opens optocoupler DA1, the thyristor of which is connected to the control circuit of the engine speed controller. The variable resistor R4 for regulating the motor speed is selected with the same value as in the vacuum cleaner regulator board (it is removed) and is made remote (in the housing from the dimmer) for placement on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner. A resistor R removed from the board is soldered in parallel to it. The “on/off” switch S2 in the open circuit of the resistor R4 is used to manually turn on the vacuum cleaner. Switch S1 “automatic/manual”. In manual control mode, S1 is turned on and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) - S2 is turned on - S1. In automatic mode, S1 is turned off and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) – pins 6-4 DA1. After turning off the power tool, due to the large capacity of capacitor C1 and the inertia of the motor, the vacuum cleaner continues to work for about 3-5 seconds. This time is enough to draw the remaining debris from the hose into the vacuum cleaner.
The automatic start circuit is assembled on a breadboard. Switches S1, S2, dimmer housing (to accommodate variable resistor R4) and the XS1 socket were selected from the same not very expensive series, so to speak, for aesthetics. All elements are placed on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner, made of 16 mm chipboard and covered with PVC edging. In the future, it will be necessary to make insulated housings for the boards to protect live parts from accidental contact.
To power the vacuum cleaner, a three-core flexible cable in rubber insulation KG 3*2.5 (5 meters) and a plug with a grounding contact were selected (do not forget about electrical safety and fight static electricity). Considering the short-term intermittent operation of the vacuum cleaner together with a power tool, the selected cable cross-section is sufficient not to heat up. A thicker cable (for example, KG 3*4) is correspondingly heavier and rougher, which would create inconvenience when using a vacuum cleaner. It was decided to discard the device for winding the cable, which was in the donor vacuum cleaner, since the contacts existing there would not withstand the total load of the vacuum cleaner and power tool.
The top cover is secured with a pin and wing nut.
To make it easier to remove the top cover, the motor is connected to the control circuit via a connector. The motor housing and the vacuum cleaner are connected to a protective grounding conductor. To cool the regulator circuit, I drilled a small hole in the outlet pipe to create an air flow inside the engine compartment housing.
In order to be able to insert a garbage bag into the garbage bin, the top edge was covered with a rubber door seal cut lengthwise.
To prevent the garbage bag from being sucked into the cyclone due to air leaks through leaks, it is necessary to make a small hole in it.
The finalization and testing of the resulting vacuum cleaner took place when the repairs had already begun, so to speak, in “combat” conditions. The traction, of course, is many times more powerful than that of a household vacuum cleaner, which would not be enough for even a couple of minutes of working with construction waste. Relatively heavy concrete debris is almost completely deposited in the garbage container and the additional filter does not need to be cleaned for a long time, while the draft is uniform and does not depend on the degree of filling of the garbage container. Dust from putty (in the form of flour) is very light and, accordingly, is less filtered by the cyclone, which forces you to periodically clean the autofilter. The task of making a vacuum cleaner was not set and therefore this function no test was performed.
CONCLUSION and CONCLUSIONS:
The resulting device eventually turned out to be functional and has already been tested during the renovation of one room. Now I consider it more like a working model from the “will it work or not for fun” series.
The main disadvantages of this design:
— relatively large dimensions are not convenient for transportation in a car, although the vacuum cleaner moves around the room very easily on wheels. You can use 30 liter barrels for example. As operation has shown, such a large garbage container is inconvenient to clean, and a bag with a large amount of garbage can tear.
— the diameter of the hose can be increased, for example, to 50 mm and a hose from industrial vacuum cleaner(but the question arises of the price from 2000 rubles). Although even with the existing hose, the debris collects quite quickly, unless, of course, you try to pull in half a brick.
— it is necessary to make an easily removable mount for the additional auto filter and engine for more convenient and quick maintenance and cleaning.
— you can include a thermal relay in the control circuit (just determine the response temperature) to protect the engine from overheating.
Poor screening of light fine dust, which can be solved by introducing a second stage of smaller cyclones.
In conclusion, I would like to thank all my friends who helped with ideas and materials in the construction of this “pepelats”. And separate Thanks a lot my beloved wife Yulia for supporting me in my hobbies.
I hope my little experience will be useful to readers.
When working in a workshop or at home grinding tool, when processing parts and preparing surfaces, there is a need to remove fine dust. And, of course, it is advisable to reduce its concentration even during work by organizing local constant air purification at the workplace.
At enterprises, this problem is solved by installing filter units with a cyclone, which collects and sediments dust with the required efficiency.
In our case it is enough make a vacuum cleaner with a cyclone, thereby saving on the purchase of a construction vacuum cleaner, where such a function is provided by the manufacturer.
The principle of operation of a homemade construction vacuum cleaner with a cyclone filter
There are several options for making a cyclone for domestic needs. To decide on the most effective scheme operation of the equipment, you should know the operating principle of this filter.
Cyclone in classic version It is a cylinder and a cone, in the upper part of which there is an inlet for polluted air and an outlet for purified air.
The inlet is made so that the air enters the filter tangentially, forming a rotating flow directed towards the equipment cone (down).
Inertial forces act on pollutant particles and carry them out of the flow to the walls of the apparatus, where dust settles.
Under the influence of gravity and secondary flow, the mass deposited on the walls moves towards the cone and is removed into the receiving hopper. The purified air rises up along the central axis and is discharged through a pipe located strictly in the center of the upper platform of the cyclone.
Required condition effective cleaning air is the exact calculation of the apparatus and the tightness of the cyclone, including in relation to the receiving hopper.
Otherwise, the principle of operation is disrupted and chaotic air movement occurs, preventing dust from settling normally.
In addition, it is necessary to select a motor that sucks in contaminated air, which will ensure optimal operating parameters of the equipment.
Homemade filter for a construction vacuum cleaner, the variants of which are offered on the Internet cannot be called a full-fledged cyclone.
The most simple circuit Such equipment is a plastic barrel with an embedded inlet pipe tangentially, a built-in filter from a car inside the “cyclone” body, through which purified air is removed and to which a household vacuum cleaner is connected.
The disadvantages of the equipment are the absence of a formed flow swirling along the walls of the barrel and a laminar return flow.
In essence, we get an additional capacity for settling large particles (sawdust, shavings), and fine dust will clog the filter at the outlet, and will require constant cleaning.
To improve the design, we suggest adding a plastic barrel homemade cyclone made from a traffic cone. It is best if the work is carried out over several hours, install stationary option equipment for removing dust from the workplace.
In this case we need a radial household fan. And with a one-time connection of the cyclone, it is enough to use a regular vacuum cleaner with adjustable suction power.
Sometimes an additional rheostat is installed to reduce the rotation speed of the vacuum cleaner engine, thereby selecting the parameters necessary for the normal functioning of the filter.
In the following sections of the article we will present you with two options for a cyclone for domestic use.
Selection of equipment - what is needed for work
For the first design option for a permanent installation, you will need the following components:
- Plastic barrel;
- Gray plastic sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm;
- Traffic cone;
- Corrugated hoses, reinforced with steel wire or metallized hoses;
- Adhesive for plastic;
- Radial household fan with the ability to change the engine speed and performance equal to six times the exchange of air in the room;
- Plywood 10-12 mm thick.
The second version of the product is the most successful, since in this case the product approaches the functionality of a real cyclone.
To make a filter you will need to purchase:
- Ready-made plastic cyclone made in China;
- A barrel, bucket or other container for making a dust bin;
- Corrugated hoses.
A plastic cyclone is inexpensive, approximately 1500-2500 rubles, and is designed to collect medium and heavy dust. Works great with shavings and sawdust.
Step-by-step instructions for the cyclone assembly process
Our first option is stationary design for workshops with large amounts of dust of various origins.
Assembling a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner - First we make the cyclone itself. We make a hole in the plastic cone for passage sewer pipe on a tangent.
- For better connection The mating surface of the pipe with the cone body is matted with emery cloth. We glue the seams using a mounting gun.
- In the upper part of the cone we install a vertical pipe, the lower end of which should be below the inlet. In this way we can achieve vortex air movement. The pipe is fixed in a plywood sheet in the shape of a circle with a diameter equal size base of the cone.
- The prepared cyclone is secured to the barrel lid using a round plywood sheet.
- To plastic barrel when the inlet pipe is clogged with debris, it does not deform under the influence of vacuum; inside the container we install a spacer - a frame made of plywood sheet. External dimensions frames repeat inner diameter barrels. To strengthen the structure, we attach the construction cone to the lid of the container using metal pins.
- Next, we connect the cyclone to the corrugated hoses at the inlet and outlet. We install a radial household fan outdoors under a canopy.
The second version of the construction vacuum cleaner is based on a Chinese plastic cyclone, which is also attached to any of the selected containers. The result is a reliable and efficient design.
The cyclone is attached to the container using a metal clamping flange.
VIDEO INSTRUCTION
When starting the vacuum cleaner and further operation, do not forget to clean the inlet pipe and stop the internal spacers on the containers to prevent deformation of the receiving hopper.
If finer air purification is required, the design is supplemented with a car filter in the housing at the outlet of the product.