The presence of a milling machine will greatly simplify the process and accuracy of product processing. It can be purchased at finished form in a specialized store, or you can save your own savings and make a table with your own hands.

With such a device you can cut not only different types of trees, but also plastic, wood boards. You can also use it to independently make profile cuts, grooves, tenons and slots.

With a DIY router table, you can equip your workshop with a practical woodworking machine. All that is required for effective work is to attach the manual router itself to the product.

Type designs, milling table May be:

• mounted. This option is quite practical and easy to use. To do this, a separate block of the unit is attached to the sawing machine with clamps on the side. This design allows you to save space. If necessary, it can be easily and quickly removed and left aside;
• portable. This option is in great demand, especially if the workshop is small. Also, this type of design is suitable for those who often change their place of residence or take a router with them to construction sites;
• stationary. This option is suitable for a spacious workshop. This is a very convenient model. Since a stationary product can be equipped with a well-thought-out workplace.

Material

To make a milling table, you can use various materials:

Each individual option has its own advantages. Wood is characterized by high strength, reliability and durability. But you need to know how to work with this material. It is more difficult to process manually, unlike DPP or MDF. And natural wood is much more expensive.

As for chipboard and MDF, these materials are more affordable in terms of price. They can be easily processed with hand and electric tools and have good technical characteristics.

Drawing of a homemade wood milling table

Before you start making a milling table, you need to make a drawing. It indicates exact dimensions everyone individual element and manufacturing materials. As for making the drawing, you can make it yourself, you can use special programs on a computer or, order from a furniture company. The last option is the most reliable. Since the specialists will make a competent calculation of all the details, with an accuracy of one millimeter.

Tools

To make a homemade milling table design you will need the following tools:

• hacksaw;
• electric jigsaw;
• sanding machine or sandpaper;
• drill;
• chisel;
• screwdriver or screwdriver.

Advice: Using power tools will greatly speed up the process of making and assembling the product.

From materials you will need:

• Chipboard or MDF. To avoid sagging during work, you should choose lumber with a cross-section of 3.6 cm. For the side parts, chipboard with a thickness of 1.6 cm is suitable;
• plywood, textolite, metal (production of mounting plate);
• The router is purchased at a specialized store.

An easy way to make a table for a hand router

Making a countertop

First you need to prepare the parts for the table. They are cut with a jigsaw from selected lumber, according to the drawing.

Advice: detailing can be ordered from a specialized furniture company. Here they will help you immediately create a competent drawing and select lumber. The cost of the furniture company's services is fully justified by the quality and precision of the work. All you need next is to simply assemble the product according to the diagram in your workshop.

The manufacturing process of a milling table is carried out in the following sequence:

Important: whether to do it for the table design or not is everyone’s personal choice. The table top with the router installed can simply be secured between two tables.

How to make and install a plate yourself

Since the tabletop of a homemade milling table has decent thickness, then the mounting plate should have a small thickness. Then you can make maximum use of the cutting tool reach.

Attention: a plate with a minimum thickness should be as strong and rigid as possible.

It can be made of metal or of a material that is in no way inferior in strength, for example, PCB. The thickness of the PCB should vary between 4-8 mm.

The plate manufacturing process is as follows:

1. After checking the drawing, cut out a part from a sheet of textolite rectangular shape .
2. In the center of a rectangular piece make a hole. Its dimensions must correspond to the diameter of the hole in the router sole.
3. We connect the plate with the router base and the table.
4. For fixing plates to the tabletop making clamps for the machine, which are located at the four corners. These dimensions must strictly correspond to the holes located on the tool itself.

Work area equipment

After manufacturing and assembling the milling table, it is recommended to think over a competent work area. To maintain the accuracy of milling processing, it is worth installing on the tabletop:

• guides. They can be made from chipboard or from the same materials as the countertop. The guides are installed at right angles and fastened with four oblique stops.
• clamps. They can be made in the form of a wooden comb or from a ball bearing of the required size and weight.

Finishing

After constructing a milling table with your own hands, to give the product an aesthetic appearance and to extend its service life, you need all the working surfaces:

• polish;
• polish;
• bottom and sides - paint;
• open with varnish.

The electrical part of the product must be covered with a metal sleeve.

Photo

The result of your work may be a table that looks like one of the following

Useful video

A detailed description of the manufacturing process can be seen in the following video:

Conclusion

In conclusion, it is worth noting that the process of manufacturing a milling table is a rather responsible process. If you are confident that you can handle this task, you can save your own savings and make the product yourself. To do this you will need: stock up on a well-drawn drawing, necessary materials and tools and free time.

In contact with

Having a homemade or purchased milling table for home work and construction is the most necessary unit in the garage. This universal machine for processing modern building materials, if there is a wide range of cutters of different diameters.

It is important to know that if you have a manual router of any brand, you do not need to spend money on a branded machine. It is not difficult to assemble a milling table with your own hands.

Milling table design

It is customary to take strong sheet material as the basis for the design. It could be:

• MDF board;
• thick plywood;
• board made of boards of any thickness.

For each type of table, a material that is convenient for processing is selected. But it is logical to assume that the working part itself (the cover) or the plane receives the most load. Therefore it must be made of metal. Stainless steel is the ideal option.

Important! The working surfaces of the structure should not absorb moisture or the resin of raw wood.

For installation of a manual milling cutter they use classic workbench or collect separate design. The latter must be as stable as possible, since vibration during operation is guaranteed.

The tool itself is installed at the bottom of the table or workbench, so they provide such a position so that it is easy to remove and put back the hand router. After all, stationary milling machines are increasingly used for woodworking not on an industrial scale. In theory, nothing complicated: they assemble the stand, mount a power tool (drill, not a new router). If you try, then such an installation will not be inferior to the commercial version, because the master prepares the device for himself.

Main parts of the milling table

We mean the set of elements from which it is not difficult to assemble the installation on your own:

• Aluminum guides.
• Steel plate for working area. It's also a mounting plate. A router is attached to it.
• Sheet of plywood.
• For the base there is an MDF panel.

On this kind of tables, it is advisable to install the buttons necessary for turning on and quickly stopping (emergency lights). Upper clamping devices are included in the assembly plan in case of working with large parts.

Table type

There are only three of them. Milling tables are:

• Aggregate. It is possible to expand the saw plane.
• Portable. Small size, easy to carry weight.
• Stationary. The structure is weighty and very difficult to move on your own.

Cover material

• The base, cover or working surface must be covered with plastic (if we are talking about an MDF panel). But such a table can become saturated with moisture, which will affect the quality of the milling cut, plus the grooves in the swollen panel lose their normal mobility.
• Phenolic plastic. Optimal for a machine, but more expensive than an MDF panel.
• Steel. Aluminum, stainless steel or rolled sheet. Sometimes they also install cast iron. But the issue of corrosion is solved with paint.

Groove for stop

This is just a recess for a movable longitudinal stop or a built-in carriage. The groove is an ideal element of the table design, due to which it is used additional accessories. An analogue of a groove is a movable slide. They are perpendicular to the longitudinal stop, plus they are also movable.

Fixing the router

The hand tool is mounted on a rigid plate made of steel, stainless steel, aluminum, textolite, etc. The plate itself is mounted with a recess so that it can be recessed into a level with the lid.

To attach the base of a hand router, you need to prepare countersunk screw connections.

Longitudinal stop

Fixed on the table. Its purpose is to correctly feed the workpiece. Longitudinal stops are stationary. This is convenient for processing the same type of material.

Sliding stops are ideal for milling various elements according to dimensions. The quality of operation of the entire machine depends on the longitudinal stop, its stability and smoothness.

Preparing for work

Before assembly, we study the design in parts. If there is nothing to choose from, then we buy more necessary materials for sequential assembly.

What materials should I use?

It is not forbidden to assemble a structure with your own hands from available materials. Everything comes into play:

• Plywood of any thickness.
• Boards or shields made from them. Any bars.
• Chipboard, fibreboard.
• Rolled steel and aluminum.
• Pipe rolling.

Required components

It is necessary to purchase additional components if a CNC milling table is planned. But classic stationary machine not difficult to make from:

• Any hand router.
• Drills.

Tools for work

For work we prepare:

• Wood glue.
• Nuts, screws and bolts of the required size.
• Cover material (MDF or plywood).
• Power tools (jigsaw, miter saw, etc.).
• Sandpaper.
• Marking tool.

Table manufacturing stages

Before starting to purchase the material, determine the location in the workshop for future installation. When future design will be used occasionally, then choose portable tables. But if there is a lot of space in the carpentry workshop, then a wide milling table, convenient for processing boards or panels of 2 meters, is productive.

Manufacturing of bed and table top

By frame we mean a frame with a support, but which also houses the tabletop itself. It is customary to assemble a bed from whatever is spared. No particular preference. You need to achieve rigidity and stability.

Before assembling the frame, it is advisable to take care of the operator’s comfort. Typically, the lower part of the frame deepens 10-20 cm from the lid itself. It’s more comfortable and therefore safer.

If you study the drawings and design features, it is not difficult to fit a convenient carpentry workbench under an old router. We remember that vibration occurs from the operation of the machine, so we are considering this option if the workbench is firmly standing.

It is customary for homemade products to use a reliable, stable, motionless frame, and it is advisable to weld it from a profile, since the entire load is transferred to the base. Fits:

• Steel pipe.
• Corner (trimmings).
• Channel.

Only then wooden beams and chipboard.

It is inexpensive to assemble a milling table for periodic use from a 25x25 or 40x20 profile pipe. Using an angle grinder, cut the profile into 4 legs, a rectangle (frame) and lower connecting parts. All this is strictly in size.

Then the profile is welded into a frame, complementing the structure with a pipe. The latter is necessary for the parallel stop. 4-6 legs must be framed with a profile or corner. But this is after installing the table top itself. Plus metal carcass makes it possible to weld a limiter for electrical equipment in advance.

Mounting plate necessarily wider than the diameter of the cutter if you plan to work with several cutting attachments. It is more profitable or cheaper to form this element from 20 mm birch plywood.

But it is more practical to work on a homemade machine with cast polycarbonate as a mounting plate. The essence of the work is this:

• Remove the soleplate from the power tool, having first placed the mounting plate face up.
• Temporarily connect the plate and sole using double-sided tape.
• Select drills to match the diameter of the factory fasteners and drill the correct holes for fastening on the plate.
• Next, connect the homemade plate with the router and place it on the table for adjustment.
• An 8 mm drill is placed in the collet and the motor is lowered. You need to touch the plate with the drill and mark the center.
• Next, follow the mark to make a hole of the required diameter.

Milling table assembly

Start with the tabletop or lid:

• To process the material, the canvas itself is conveniently placed.
• We saw plywood, an MDF panel with plastic onto the work surface, the base of the stop and the wall, the gusset (4 pcs), the side strip, the connecting strips (4 pcs).
• We assemble the table itself using fasteners that are easy to use. Self-tapping screws and bolts are used.

Having the structure assembled, you can use paint and varnish compositions, if needed.

• We measure 20-30 cm from the edge, install an aluminum guide or leave a groove for the carriage. Full length sample.
• A recess for the sole is prepared on the tabletop. We trace the last one, cut it out with a jigsaw and remember the required groove so that the table and the installed tool have the same plane. We position the recess for the sole so that it is convenient for the operator to work.
• Now, using a hand router, we make a semicircular groove for the sole itself, having previously set the desired size. Holes are also needed in the groove to secure the tool.
• It is advisable to hide the fasteners or recess them in the table; for this purpose, recesses are made for hexagonal clamping bolts.
• We have fasteners that can be adjusted to adjust the plane of the milling platform.

Parallel stop:

• We take plywood and create a groove in it. Also, to attach the parallel stop, you need 3-4 strips of the same size, plus a stiffener for each.
• The easiest way is to fix the parallel stop with clamps.

If the table is on a metal frame, then there is a pipe in it; it is necessary just for installing the parallel stop.

Making the top clamp

The easiest way to make one or more pressure combs with your own hands. Here they use dry, strong wood. For a large stationary table, a 450x50 mm comb is suitable.

To make it you will need a saw machine, a jigsaw or band-saw. This tool can be used to make bevels; an angle of 30 degrees and cuts of 50 mm are sufficient. It is advisable to make bevels on both sides of the clamp.

Then these elements need to be secured by drilling holes for installation. The finished “comb” must be polished. It is most convenient to equip clamps with threaded clamps. Thus, the auxiliary tool can be quickly reconfigured. It is better to do this on a stop, where a groove will be machined in advance for the movement of the combs themselves.

Drive for a homemade milling machine

For a drive, the most important parameter is power. Manual assembly involves a motor from Soviet or Russian technology, with a minimum parameter of 500 watts.

If you can set the drive on a homemade machine to be more powerful, 1-2 kilowatts, then it’s easy to work with any type of cutter. It is important that the electric motor has reinforced bearings. Then, long-term resistance to heavy loads occurring on the transverse or longitudinal axis of rotation is guaranteed.

Subtleties of assembly

Any type of this kind of homemade product will be more convenient if you have a metal ruler. It will help you set up the rip fence and maintain the size and angle.

On the reverse side there is a very useful recess for mounting the casing of a vacuum cleaner or cyclone. This optional equipment It is advisable to sum it up after studying the drawings.

Safety when working on a homemade milling table

A hand-held or stationary milling cutter is a high-risk class of power tool. The operating rules are as follows:

• While working on the machine, you must not lose concentration; the workpiece must be fed using auxiliary tool, like on a circular saw.
• Protective gloves and goggles are required.
• The presence of strangers in the room, children or assistants is not correct. When the device is running, you must remove all of them.
• If a cutter or the power tool itself malfunctions, changes the pace of work, or rejects products, then it must be turned off from the network as soon as possible. If possible, make repairs and then continue working.

Results

Assembling a milling table requires the presence of auxiliary tools, good fasteners and the required amount of material. This type of machine is a private craftsman’s dream. You need to treat the assembly as carefully as possible even at the drawing stage, deciding on the nature of the future machine, its main working element.

Definition of a milling table, its design

A device that can be used to: grooves in the workpiece, grooves. do tenon joints, processing the edges of products is called a milling table. It is inconvenient to use a router separately; the master will have to concentrate on the workpiece and at the same time on processing. A milling table, assembled with your own hands, facilitates the work process; it can be mounted on a workbench or a special design can be made for it.

Important! When carrying out work on the manufacture of a specialized table, you must remember that the router is installed from below, and free space must be allocated for it. The stationary part of any table is the frame; it is a strong frame with a tabletop.

Material for the frame milling table can be:

1. Wooden beam.
2. Metal squares.
3. Plates: MDF, chipboard.

The requirement for the frame is to create stability for the tabletop and rigidity of the structure. When you make a milling table with your own hands, the overall parameters of the frame are determined from the materials that require processing.

How to make a bed for a milling machine

Despite the simplicity of making a frame for a tabletop, a homemade milling machine must Meet requirements:

The table design includes mounting plate. it is needed to mount the router.

How to make a mounting plate correctly

Place the mounting plate at the location where the router sole is attached. For its manufacture, a material is selected that meets the following criteria:

• Strength.
• Thickness - the thinner the better.

Recommended by experts for self-production of a mounting plate milling machine use sheet metal, you can use fiberglass or textolite. Overall dimensions are rectangular, thickness within from 4 millimeters to 8 millimeters. It is necessary to make a hole in the center of the plate, the diameter of which matches the hole on the base of the hand router.

The router is equipped with a plastic pad that is attached to threaded holes on the base; these holes are used to attach it to the mounting plate. If there are no such holes, they must be made in the sole of the router. Another method of attaching the router is proposed, using metal spring brackets. Mounting plate attaches to the tabletop at the corners .

DIY assembly instructions for a milling table

To assemble the clamping device, rollers or a ball bearing of the required diameter are used. It is mounted in a holding device, which is rigidly fixed at the required distance from the plane of the tabletop.

This device ensures that the dimensional workpiece is tightly pressed against the plane of the tabletop as it passes under the roller. This simple addition increases the accuracy of the work performed and improves labor safety.

You can assemble a functional milling table with your own hands when the master has information about the electric drive that will be used in the work. Let's consider the power parameter to select electric drive:

Important! Experts recommend that before assembling a milling machine, determine the power of the milling machine, it should not be less than 2 kW. This power allows the master to work with any wood. It is recommended to choose milling cutter models with variable speed control. The rotation speed of the router is very important for obtaining an even cut on the workpiece. If this parameter is high, the cut will be clean.

Safe use of the router table

When the milling table is assembled and the electric drive is installed, do not rush to immediately check its operation, make sure that the work was performed correctly. What experts recommend doing for safe work on the milling table:

• It is advisable to install a protective screen on the tabletop; it can be own design or an industrial design.
• Be sure to check the presence of an emergency stop button for electrical equipment; it must be in the shape of a “mushroom” and located in the area where the technician is located so that it can be pressed with the body.
• Equip the work area with light illumination.
• When the router table is used to frequently change cutters for work, it is recommended to equip it with an automatic cutter lifting device.

Equipped with a homemade milling table no restrictions. there is only one requirement for them: increasing the safety and efficiency of the work performed.

How to make a table for a router with your own hands with design drawings

Using a router table, you can perform professional woodworking. Joints, end profiling, door and window frames, skirting boards, photo and painting frames are made neatly and conveniently on the table. A factory-made table can cost a pretty penny when of dubious quality. Why not make it yourself? Moreover, the design is not at all complicated; further drawings will be analyzed in detail.

Main parts of the milling table

homemade milling table

There are many options for milling tables. As a rule, craftsmen create unique drawings to suit their needs. But the basic design is the same regardless of the size of the machine. Here is a table 90 x 48 x 30 cm, the table top and supports are made of plywood No. 27, the legs of the workbench are welded from angle steel.

The main elements of a table for a manual router, the quality and design of which will determine the ease of use and functionality.

First you need to decide on the type of future machine:

If you plan to work on location, a drawing of a small portable structure will do. At permanent job A reliable and powerful stationary table will be convenient in the workshop. It can be installed on wheels and moved around the room. And for a small workshop, the modular option is good; it is an extension of the tabletop of the sawing machine or its rotary version.

Cover material

The most practical tabletops are made of chipboard covered with thin plastic or MDF with a melamine layer. This material is very easy to cut with a jigsaw, and it will last a long time.

Pressed countertops are not suitable for working in damp rooms or outdoors! To prevent them from swelling, all edges will have to be carefully processed and sealed.

Homemade countertops made from plastic sheets are very good. They are smooth, even, and easy to process. This machine can be used in any conditions.

Metal countertops are more difficult to make and are heavy. A aluminum sheets it is necessary to additionally clad - cover with a layer that prevents contamination of the parts.

Groove for stop

Typically, a milling table is used for processing longitudinal edges. To be able to process the transverse ends when creating homemade machine it is necessary to provide a movable stop that moves in the groove. The built-in groove is also used for attaching clamping devices.

Fixing the router

There are two options for attaching a manual router to the table:

• directly to the bottom surface of the tabletop;
• to the removable mounting platform.

When making a milling table with your own hands, they often use the first method, as it is simpler. But the mounting plate equipment has several advantages in operation:

• frees up to 1 cm of the processing depth of the part;
• The router is easier to remove to replace cutters.

Therefore, we recommend that you tinker a little longer and equip the mounting plate. It must be flush with the surface of the countertop, otherwise the workpiece will touch the protrusions. Even more convenience is provided by a lift for the cutter, the design of which will be discussed in detail below.

Longitudinal stop

It serves as a guide for the part, so it must be level. You can make a stop with a T-slot into which clamping devices and other devices are inserted to make work easier.

Homemade table

The most primitive drawing of a homemade table for a router is an MDF table top, in which a hole is made for the router to pass through and a guide ruler is attached - an evenly planed board. This tabletop can be placed between two workbenches or installed on its own legs. Its advantages are the simplest and quickly manufactured design. Perform serious woodwork similar device It's unlikely to allow it. Let's consider more functional options, including rotary.

Small router table

neat and small table

A tabletop model for a hand router, which you can make yourself in a few evenings. Lightweight construction and mobile, fits on a shelf, takes up little space, and its drawings are simple.

• The working surface and side racks are made of thick laminated plywood No. 15. The size of the table top is 40 x 60 cm, the height without the corner stop is 35 cm, the height of the stop is 10 cm. Three grooves are selected in the surface of the work table for installing rails. Various auxiliary devices are installed here and moved along the tabletop.
• To make the structure stable, the legs are made of chipboard or MDF No. 22. The legs are placed with a slight indentation, leaving a little space for attaching templates and clamps using clamps.
• To cover the mechanism, a front panel made of plywood or chipboard is installed below.
• For side stop there are grooves along which it moves. Stops in in the right place using bolts and wing nuts. The emphasis can be dismantled and any convenient device can be installed in the free space.
• A pipe is connected to the stop to remove chips that are released in abundance during operation. Chip removal for the router and table through plastic corrugations from sewer siphons are combined with a splitter for the water supply. A hose from the household vacuum cleaner. The result is a very effective system for removing chips; they practically do not scatter throughout the room.
• Since the machine is designed for a manual milling machine, a special on/off switch is not required.
• The stop consists of two parts, which are moved closer or further depending on the diameter of the working body. A wing nut is provided to secure the sash. The good thing about the proposed model is that the tool can be easily removed from the frame to replace the cutters.
• The mounting platform for the router is made of textolite or plexiglass. The plastic platform from the router kit is first dismantled. The recesses for the mounting area are selected with a router, and the hole is cut with a jigsaw. When the hole is ready, the plexiglass is adjusted to its size and shape. It should fit tightly and without protrusions into the window.

You can make several mounting platforms of the same size with holes for different cutter diameters.

This option is convenient for little ones hand tools. If a stationary table is being made for a large router, insert rings for different cutter diameters are attached to one mounting platform.

To ensure that the workpiece moves smoothly, motion stoppers are installed on the side stop. Clamps are also attached to the side stop, which hold the part near the cutter during operation. Additional convenience is provided by the slide, along which the workpiece moves at a right angle. And to make the work safe, pushers are manufactured.

The table is ready for use; its drawback is the lack of adjustment of the processing depth. This is done manually by pressing on the tool. It is impossible to “get” to the desired depth the first time. Therefore, we recommend equipping the table with a lift.

You need to make a hole in the frame into which an adjusting bolt with a wing nut is inserted. The depth of milling is smoothly changed by twisting the lamb.

Some craftsmen adapt old ones into an elevator for a powerful router car jacks. The device is attached under the router; a hole is made in the side wall to bring the jack handle out. The jack handle can be bent at the desired angle; when rotated, the router smoothly moves up and down in 2 mm increments.

Another model of a homemade milling table for a router in the video:

Examples of milling table designs and their drawings

Design 1

When purchasing a milling machine, it is not always possible to determine the exact tasks for it and the scope of work to be performed. Therefore, the master, thinking about a purchase, tries to find a universal option, combining precision in processing on a machine and the compactness of a manual milling machine.

In this article we will look at a compromise option - a table for a manual router with your own hands, drawings of this device and structural elements are attached below.

To make a milling table with your own hands, drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet, or bought ready-made option, you need to have at least the slightest idea about their designs.

The working process hand cutters consists of moving the tool along the plane of the workpiece. If the router is permanently fixed and the workpiece is moved, then manual typewriter becomes a milling machine. It takes up little more space than a manual or portable version, and has undeniable advantages before compact models.

It is preferable to perform a number of milling operations only in a stationary position - cutting out grooves and grooves, various methods of processing the edges of products and laying tenon joints.

The first thing we will do when making a table for a manual router with our own hands is to choose a location. It is necessary to understand in what design the table will be made: modular, removable or stationary.

Depending on the frequency of use of the milling table, its type is selected. If it is rarely used, then a portable option is suitable. If the master works every day, then we will make a free-standing stationary table with our own hands. The design of a portable milling machine allows you to remove a manual router from a structure, and remount it after the job is completed.

Basic elements of a milling table

Let's consider an option - a table for a manual router, which is easy to make with your own hands, without resorting to outside help.

It is difficult to imagine a full-fledged milling machine without the main elements of its design:

• bed;
• table top;
• mounting plate;
• longitudinal stop;
• pressing combs.

You can assemble a table for a hand router with your own hands from scrap materials (cut plywood sheets, chipboard, edged board, metal corners, pipes). We will put together a bed for the machine from boards or use an old table or bedside table.
Anything that will allow you to react firmly and steadily to the vibration of the milling machine and will serve as the supporting structure of the machine will do.

When making a machine bed with his own hands, the master must choose the right height for himself. Only by taking into account the operator’s characteristics (height, arm length, etc.) will the work process take place in comfortable conditions without harm to health.

Tabletop

It is convenient to use a kitchen countertop for a working surface. But this option is relevant if you changed kitchen furniture and the old tabletop lies idle. Otherwise, it is easier to use plywood.

The recommended thickness for the table top is 16 mm, so 8 mm plywood sheets are glued together, which allows you to get a durable and reliable table for a hand router. To improve sliding, the surface of the tabletop is covered with a sheet of textolite, which will simplify the feeding of the workpiece to the working body of the milling machine.

The dimensions of the tabletop directly depend on the size of the workpieces being processed; the width of the tabletop changes, but the depth and thickness remain unchanged. The picture shows a table top with dimensions suitable for most jobs. Compliance with the dimensions is not mandatory; each master changes them to suit specific conditions and requirements.

A hole is cut in the center of the tabletop for attaching a milling machine. The dimensions of this hole are larger than the seat plate of the milling machine. The edges of the hole are folded to install the mounting plate, to which the cutter is mounted. The depth of the rebate is equal to the thickness of the mounting plate so that it is flush with the surface of the table.

For greater machine functionality and part processing capabilities different sizes grooves are selected in the tabletop. They install a guide profile for a standard carriage with a stop, which allows you to fix the longitudinal stop and the horizontal clamping ridge in the required position.

Mounting plate

The mounting plate is required to attach the router to the table. It is made from durable materials such as metal, plastic, textolite, plywood. Self-tapping screws are used for fastening countersunk head. To make it easier to control the dimensions of the workpiece, a ruler is attached to the plate.

The plate should fit tightly into its seat on the machine table top. Its thickness does not exceed 6 mm, and this is its advantage over attaching a router directly to the bottom of the tabletop. The small thickness of the plate increases the milling depth and allows you to easily dismantle the router yourself. The hole in the insert is larger than the cutter used. The diameter of the cutters varies from 3 mm to 76 mm, so it is recommended to use inserts with replaceable rings to change the hole for the cutter.

Longitudinal stop

When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is required that guides the workpiece along the table. The result of the work done with your own hands will be accurate if the stop is smooth in length and perpendicular to the surface of the tabletop. The stop can be solid and equipped with movable pads that allow you to adjust the gaps around the cutter.

A vertical clamping comb is placed on the longitudinal stop, which fixes the workpiece in the vertical direction. Equipped with a branch pipe, the stop allows you to connect the vacuum cleaner hose in close proximity to the working element, which allows you to remove sawdust and dust from the workplace.

Longitudinal stop (front view)

Longitudinal stop (rear view)

Pressing combs

To fix the workpiece to the working surface and the longitudinal stop, vertical and horizontal clamping ridges are installed.

The vertical ridge is placed on the stop structure. Due to the longitudinal hole in the wall of the stop, the ridge moves in a vertical plane and can be fixed at any height with fasteners.

The horizontal pressure stop is placed on the tabletop of the milling machine. Thanks to the longitudinal guide profile on the tabletop, the pressure comb moves lengthwise and crosswise in a horizontal plane.

1. If the floors in the workshop are uneven, it is recommended to make adjustable supports for the milling table yourself, with the help of which you can adjust the comfortable height for work.
2. For durability of the equipment, the wooden parts of the milling table are coated protective layer(paint, varnish).
3. Mount protective glass on a longitudinal support that will protect your eyes from chips and dust.
4. Use gloves to protect your hands while operating the milling machine.
5. Do not wear loose-fitting clothes.
6. Use hand routers with a power rating greater than 1100 watts.
7. Install the cutter in the collet 3/4 the length of the shank.

Safety precautions when working with a milling machine:

• before starting work, it is necessary to check the fastening of the stop;
• do not apply much force when milling (too strong a feed will damage the tool);
• install the cutter in the collet 3/4 of the length of the shank, but not tightly, but leaving a gap of at least 3 mm;
• using cutters large diameter, reduce the rotation speed;
• disconnect the tool from the power supply before performing adjustments and maintenance;
• Monitor the condition of the cutters and do not use damaged ones.

Reliable do-it-yourself milling table

Milling table: purpose, types

The convenience of using a router placed in a table lies in the optimization and safety of working with wood, as well as the speed of manufacturing parts. The principle of operation of this installation is quite simple, since it is not the milling cutter that moves along the surface being processed, but the part that moves relative to it. A router fixed to the table provides greater possibilities for processing parts. As a result, product blanks are obtained as in professional furniture workshops with the appropriate equipment. Before making a milling table, you need to decide appearance and size. It is necessary to take into account the possibility of upgrading the table. It is important that the table is reliable and stable in use. The presence of drawers will create additional comfort in work

Compact homemade design will replace an industrial machine

There are three main types of router tables:

1. Stationary - a specialized design, usually bulky and non-movable.
2. Portable - has compact dimensions and relatively light weight. This table is easy to move.
3. Aggregate - the design provides for expansion of the surface of the saw table.

Design diagram

To make your own countertops, you usually use MDF boards covered with various plastic coverings, thick plywood or boards. These materials are easy to process, lightweight and durable.

Wooden structure is easy to process and use

Some craftsmen believe that a metal countertop is the most durable and durable. They are right, but such a table with an electrical appliance will become an excellent conductor, which is unsafe. The metal is also susceptible to corrosion, so it needs to be painted.

The covers of the milling tables must be smooth. They are often made of plastic or metal. These tables have a perfectly flat surface that is impervious to moisture. Phenolic plastics are easy to process. This is very convenient when making grooves for an aluminum profile or when drilling holes for fastening a longitudinal stop. Like MDF, plywood and boards, these materials have reasonable prices.

Branded countertops made of steel or aluminum already have holes for a specific model of router. If the manufactured countertop models are made of MDF boards or plastic, then the companies prepare only holes for the plates. Although this does not always happen.

There are holes in the base of the plate through which the router is attached with screws to its base. These plates can be made of metal, plastic, polycarbonate or aluminum. The router plate must be installed flush with the surface of the countertop. If any part of the plate protrudes above the surface, the workpieces will catch on it.

The table cover is equipped with adjusting screws or other devices for leveling the plate. It is better to choose a plate with replaceable rings. This is necessary to select the holes of the rings according to the diameter of the cutter. This makes it easier to remove chips and other debris from the working surface of the milling table.

Creates convenience when selecting cutter diameter

When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is often needed to guide the workpiece at the desired angle. In order for the work to be done accurately, it must be even along its entire length, positioned strictly perpendicular to the surface of the table, and be easily reconfigured for various processes. The front parts of the stop can be made either solid or in the form of several overlays. To prevent chips and debris from accumulating, the side stop is equipped with a pipe. The vacuum cleaner hose is connected to it.

The front parts of the stop are in the form of several fastened overlays

The milling table can be upgraded with a frame into which the grinder will be attached. You can read more about making this design yourself here.

Required tools and materials

1. Carpenter's glue.
2. Bolts with nuts.
3. Screws.
4. MDF board and birch plywood sheet
5. Jigsaw.
6. Spanners.
7. Sandpaper.
8. Ruler.
9. Pencil

Drawings and calculations

To make a table for a router, you can use a separate surface, which is fixed in wooden supports or between two cabinets. Most in a simple way To create a table top, support part and parts for a milling table, you will use MDF board or birch plywood with a thickness of 16 to 25 mm. If the plate is covered with plastic, then there will be less resistance during operation. The board, laminated on both sides, will not warp during use. In our case, in the manufacture of the milling table we used:

1. 1 MDF panel, size 19x1000x1800 mm.
2. 1 plywood sheet, size 19x1000x1650 mm.
3. 1 plate, size 4x30x30 mm.
4. Aluminum guides - 2.3 m.
5. Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.

Photo gallery: Milling table diagrams

Step-by-step instruction

The design of the upper part of the table will consist of wooden parts, which are cut from a solid 19 mm MDF board. As a replacement for this material, you can use birch plywood.

• Cut the sheet material into fragments according to the specified dimensions.

1 - working surface; 2 - support base; 3 - its support wall; 4 - gusset (4 pcs. dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - drawer (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting strip (4 pcs.)

Before sawing into parts, it is necessary to check the thickness of the MDF board, as often it may not coincide with the specified parameters or be defective.

• It is necessary to remove the plastic cover from the base of the router. In the future, it will serve as a template for marking cutters on the surface of the countertop.

The plastic pad will serve as a template for marking

• On the largest sawn part No. 1, measuring 90x70 cm, make markings for the cutter. To do this, you need to draw a line at a distance of 235 mm from the edge in the middle and put a mark. Then place the pad so that the router's adjustment mechanisms are closer to the edge of the table. Having positioned the trim evenly, mark the places for drilling holes that will be secured with screws.

The mounting holes must line up with the trim

• Measure the diameter of the pad and the distance from the outer edge to the cut of the sole, as shown in the image.

Determining its diameter

• From the middle of the cut part of the sole, draw a line perpendicularly to its center, where: S = D/2-(D-H).

Measurements are taken from the cut of the sole of the lining

• Using the holes in the sole of the lining, mark future holes for the mounting screws.

Using an overlay as a template

• In parts No. 2 and 3, drill holes for fasteners and cutters. At the base and front of the stop, make markings for semicircular cutouts, as shown in the image. Using a jigsaw, cut semicircular cutouts. Sand the surfaces.

There are no semicircular cutouts in the diagram.

• Attach four planks (parts No. 7) to the underside of the tabletop using screws.

Use wood glue or epoxy as glue.

• Glue the remaining pieces together and secure them with screws. Install a router at the bottom of the tabletop.

1 - side bar for fixing with clamps on trestles; 2 - drawer; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - support base

• Now you need to make supporting structure table. In our case, its height will be 820 mm. For this, a sheet of birch plywood 19x1000x1650 mm was used.

1 - outer side pillar; 2 - internal stand; 3 - rear pillar; 4 - base

• Cut the plywood into pieces according to size.
• Assemble the table structure, securing its parts with self-tapping screws, screws, and glue. The result is a frame with free space in the cabinets, which are convenient for storing tools and consumables.

1 - side stand; 2 - support on wheels; 3 - bottom of the structure; 4 - internal panel; 5 - rear pillar

• Then it is necessary to make a mounting plate, which will contribute to a greater overhang of the cutter due to the tool attached to it. To make the plate, you need duralumin, getinax or polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm. Cut a square from the specified material, the sides of which are 300 mm. Glue the router sole onto it (using double-sided tape). In this case, the overlay will serve as a template. Drill the plate through the holes in the cover. After this, remove the cover and use a large drill to make indentations for the caps in the plate.

Allows the cutter to process parts as much as possible

• As shown in the image, you need to place the plate and trace its outline. Draw and cut a cutout on the tabletop, the edges of which are sanded.

A pre-drilled hole will make the process easier

• Drill holes at the place where the cutter is attached and widen them on the back side of the tabletop with an 11 mm drill. Place the mounting plate on the prepared hole in the tabletop, aligning them for fastening with bolts. Attach the part to the router base. Insert the tool into the tabletop and secure it with screws.

The holes of the table top and the plate must match

• For ease of operation of the machine, it is necessary to modify the side stop and equip it with a rotary one. This will help in the future to process the ends of narrow parts. To do this, you need to embed guides from a T-shaped profile into the surface of the slab.

Rotary and side stop will make the process convenient

• Install a guide profile in the front stop bar for attaching clamps, pads and protective devices.
• To connect the vacuum cleaner to the machine, it is necessary to make a pipe for dust removal. To do this, you need to cut a part measuring 140x178 mm from plywood. In the center of the detail we make round hole for attaching the adapter fitting for a vacuum cleaner.

The part is made of plywood

• For support, add a safety shield made of plywood and plexiglass.

Wing nuts are used for convenience

• To mill small fragments, make clamps and clamps. To do this, we cut out parts from plywood in accordance with the dimensions in the image. When making a comb clamp, it is better to use maple wood. To cut out a part, you need to choose an area with a straight direction of the wood fibers. It is better to make the cracks of the ridges with a circular saw on a machine.

Allows you to fix parts when processing small fragments

• Secure the guide with clamps. Sand all surfaces of the table, especially in places where milling work will be carried out. Clear everything wooden elements from dust and cover with oil.

Safety precautions

When working on a milling machine, accidents and injuries are possible from contact with the rotating mechanisms of the cutter and particles of workpieces flying off from it. Before starting the router, you need to remove all the tools from the surface of the tabletop, clean its surface from debris and small particles. You can also equip the milling table with a protective screen that will prevent particles from flying away.

While working at the table, cleaning and lubricating parts, removing the protective screen and measuring workpieces is prohibited. To avoid flying particles from getting into your eyes, you must use safety glasses. This is especially true when high-speed milling or processing bronze, cast iron or silumin elements.

It is necessary to cut the cutter into the part gradually. The mechanical feed must be turned on until the part comes into contact with the cutter drill. During rotation of the milling mechanism, it is unacceptable to keep your hands close to the tool rotation zone. Before installing drills, you must ensure their reliability and strength, as well as their integrity and correct sharpening. Drills should not contain metal chips or cracks. If such defects are detected, they must be replaced.

Video: Making a milling table with your own hands

Thanks regarding inexpensive materials and your skill can build a compact design of a milling table. This will allow you to produce parts with high-precision cutouts and high-quality processing at home.

Do-it-yourself wood milling machine - how to make it

The amount of work to be done will depend on which version of the table you need.

There are several types of router tables:

1. Stationary
   Free-standing, full-fledged desktop.
2. Portable
   Tabletop design, which can be installed if necessary.
3. Aggregate
   An option when, in order to work with a router, the surface of the saw table is expanded (pictured).

Design elements

In this article we will look at a stationary milling table. Having made it, you can independently cope with any other type of construction.

The most important part of the table is the bed. It consists of a frame (legs, frame, etc.) and a table top (including a metal plate and other table components). The height of the bed varies from 75 cm to 1 meter and can be adjusted individually.

An old unnecessary table, which can easily be converted into a milling table, is quite suitable as a bed.

The tabletop is made of chipboard, laminated chipboard, thick plywood or plastic. Optimal thickness sheet – 16 mm. The material for the frame should be selected taking into account the fact that people will constantly move along its surface. wooden blanks. Therefore, it should be smooth. Often the countertop is made of metals that are not subject to corrosion (for example, aluminum).

There is a mounting plate in the middle of the tabletop. Many people think that they can do without this detail, but this is not true. The mounting plate is a holder for all milling equipment.

The thickness of the plate should be no more than 8 mm. The material used depends on desire and capabilities. It can be metal, textolite, durable plywood or other sheet material. A hole is cut in the center of the plate to fit the size of the router sole.

Important: Models of milling cutters differ from each other, so when making a table you should take into account that its height should be ideal for your height, and the mounting of the router and the size of the hole should be exactly for your tool.

Stationary milling table

Let's consider the option of making a milling table with a metal frame and a tabletop made of Dutch plywood.

Materials and tools

In order to make a table for a manual router with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

• metal corner or pipe (for frame)
• aluminum guide
• axles for mounting the router
• putty, primer and paint for metal
• self-tapping screws
• furniture bolts 6 x 60 mm
• Hexagonal adjusting bolts with nuts – 4 pcs.
• Finnish moisture-resistant laminated plywood, 18 mm thick (you can use another material)
• boards or plywood scraps (for making a rip fence).

The following tools are also required:

• welding machine (for metal table frame)
• drill and bits
• screwdriver
• jigsaw
• milling cutter
• spatula, brushes, rags.

You might also be interested in an article on how to make a jigsaw table with your own hands.

You can learn how to make a table for a sewing machine yourself from this article.

Manufacturing stages

Step 1. First, we make the table frame: the tabletop holder is welded from 4 profile pipes 25 x 25 mm, on one side of the table it is necessary to weld another pipe along which the parallel fence will move. The legs are welded to them.

You can weld on each side of the frame (along the perimeter where the tabletop will be located) a corner as long as a pipe, so that the tabletop sits on these corners in the recess.

Another option, which we will use, will be to install additional supports for the tabletop: we weld two more pipes onto the long sides, which will serve not only as a support for the plywood, but also as a limiter for the router (the distance between them should be such that you can safely cut out a hole for mounting the device).

To make the workplace more stable, we weld reinforcing bridges between the table legs, at a distance of about 20 cm from the floor.

Step 2. For painting you need to take oil paint (not suitable for aluminum and galvanized steel!). We clean the metal from dirt and degrease it using any solvent (alcohol, kerosene, etc.). If necessary, you can fill the surface with a special putty and prime it.

Note: all actions should be carried out in a respirator and a ventilated area.

For primers You can use the same paint that will be used for further painting, but diluted with a solvent. More long term and qualitative the result is obtained during processing specialized compositions for metal.

After application last standing you need to wait until it's full drying out and only then proceed to further actions.

Step 3. We cut the tabletop exactly to fit the metal frame so that it fits firmly into the corners. For greater strength, you can drill holes (with a metal drill) in metal pipes (or corners) and fasten the edges of the tabletop to the frame with furniture bolts. The size of the finished tabletop is 84 x 59 cm, table height is 90 cm.

Step 4. At a distance of 20-25 cm from the edge we cut aluminum guide along the entire length of the tabletop.

Step 5. Cut the axes for the router in half. This will help increase the space between the sole and the guide axle to 11mm (if using uncut axles, this distance will be only 6mm).

Step 6. We remove the sole from the router and mark 4 holes in the middle of the tabletop for its fastening, and drill them. We make a hole in the middle of the tabletop for the router. The hole size will be different for each tool! Holes are drilled to the left and right of the hole into which the bolts securing the clamps of the router axes are inserted (they will no longer be removed).

Step 7 On the reverse side, you need to use a router to make a large groove for sole milling cutter.

In the groove itself, at the top and bottom of the through hole, cut small grooves (with a router) equal in length to the axes. At the ends of the grooves, use a Forstner drill to make small recesses for adjusting bolts with hexagonal hole.

Step 8 We cut out two pieces of pipe equal to the width of the large groove. We drill holes in them for bolts that cannot be removed. We have obtained clamps for the router axes. Nuts are screwed onto the bolts.

Step 9 Hex nuts and bolts are placed on both sides axes and are necessary in order to carry out plane adjustment milling cutter.

Step 10 We make a parallel stop. To do this, a groove is cut in a small piece of plywood for movement along a pipe specially welded for this purpose. Using a jigsaw, three equal-sized strips of plywood are cut out (length of the strip = table length + width of the guide pipe) and 4 stiffening ribs for them.

A semicircular hole is made in one strip of plywood for the release of chips, which should correspond to the slot in the tabletop. A square hole is made in the second strip in the same place.

The third strip of plywood is sawn in half. It is attached to back side stripes with square hole using bolts (then you need to make long grooves for their movement) or simple guides. The plywood halves should move apart in different directions. An aluminum guide is installed at the very top edge of this strip.

Step 11 We fasten the first and second strips together with the sides with cutouts. We fasten the stiffening ribs: two - along the edges of the resulting large hole at the junction of the plywood strips and one - on both sides (at a distance of 7-10 cm from the edge).

We cut out a small square of thin plywood (which would fit between the stiffening ribs located in the middle), closer to the middle we make a hole equal to the diameter of the vacuum cleaner pipe. The plywood is attached to the stiffeners, forming a triangular box.

Step 12 The parallel stop for the milling table is fixed with clamps. This is done so that the milling table can be easily removed and rearranged. If it is completely intended for the router, you can fix emphasis using brackets with grooves for its movement.

Currently milling equipment is especially popular. The essence of this type of material processing is that the cutter processes a workpiece that is fixed motionless, that is, the tool itself rotates, but the workpiece does not. However, this is not always convenient when it comes to a manual router. A hand router table is an excellent solution to this problem. You can make a structure that will allow you to move the workpiece, and the hand router itself will be fixed permanently. The question arises, how to make a table for a hand router with your own hands.

Of course, you can try to search already ready-made solution, but this will be quite difficult to do, since a hand router is a specific tool. You can make such a table with your own hands quite simply. However, first you need to decide on its design.

Selecting the type of table to be mounted

You can make a table for a manual router with your own hands in three types:

• portable;
• stationary;
• aggregate.

If we talk about the portable version, then it is ideal for a manual router. Such a table can be used not only directly in the workshop, but also dragged to any other convenient place.

If we are talking about working in a limited space, as well as in a permanent place, then the stationary option looks preferable. It will be possible to perform not only operations using a manual milling cutter, but also a lot of other actions. For example, sawing workpieces.

Drawing of a milling table with a milling lift.

If the first two options are not suitable, you need to choose the third.

Before you make a table for a hand router with your own hands, you need to clearly understand what main parts it consists of. There must be a bed, a tabletop, a mounting plate, and stops. These are the parts that are included in any table for a manual router. The easiest option is to use a ready-made table. You just need to attach it to it additional details. Here you will have to make stops, clamps and think over the fastening method.

However, it is worth taking a closer look at the process from the very beginning so that there are no questions about how to make a table for a manual router with your own hands.

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Bed and its features

The bed is an integral part of any router table. Moreover, this applies not only to the manual version, but also to the ordinary one. The bed consists of two parts - a frame and a table top.

For work you will need MDF or chipboard, as well as metal profiles and wood.

It is the metal profile that ensures simple assembly of the entire structure. Here all joints are not welded together, but are fastened using bolted connections. In this case, the connections are reliable and, if necessary, easy to disassemble.

As for the dimensions of the bed, they are selected depending on the size of the parts that will most often be processed on it. In order to avoid mistakes, it is worth acquiring a drawing. All overall and geometric dimensions should be indicated on it.

List of materials and parts for making a milling table.

As for the height of the bed, it should be optimal for the work. It is best to choose a height from 0.8 to 1 m. However, everything depends mainly on the height of the person who will have to work with a hand router. To avoid your feet touching the bottom of the table while working, you should make it recessed in relation to the top part. In this case, all problems of this kind disappear.

Chipboard should be used to make the lid. This material perfectly resists various types of vibrations. In addition, such a surface will be hard and smooth, which means that the workpiece will easily slide and move along it.

You can also use thick plastic. Such a surface is quite easy to process using any tools. In addition, plastic is a smooth material on which the workpiece will glide perfectly. No additional processing is required here. Plastic is easy to cut and process. This allows you to make excellent grooves on its surface and fasteners.

The aluminum table top is also excellent option. This material is easy to process and is not exposed to external aggressive factors. First of all, we are talking about moisture. Aluminum is not subject to corrosion. The tabletop will last for many years.

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Mounting plate: nuances

The mounting plate is one of the main parts of the machine. It is simply necessary to install it. Mounting plate allows you to save design features milling machine. This is done if the height of the frame exceeds 25 mm. This size occurs because the frame is made 1 m high.

Very often, to make such a plate, it is used a metal sheet. He must have minimum thickness. You can use a sheet of PCB.

This material has the highest strength, which in this case is a necessity.

The mounting plate can be of different sizes, but they must be exactly the same size as the countertop. It shouldn't be too thick. Its optimal thickness is approximately 6-8 mm.

It is necessary to make a hole in the center of the workpiece, the diameter of which will be equal to the corresponding characteristic in the milling sole. Most models have special holes to which the plate is attached. If there are none, then you should do them yourself. For these purposes, a drill is used, into which a metal drill is installed. You can do without extra holes.

Any hand router can be secured using brackets with springs.

This fastening method is also quite effective, but it is worth remembering that the staples must be made of durable material, since as a result of work numerous loads arise that cause vibration of the machine. It can harm both the router itself and cause an accident.

All parts for the table are now ready. It is very important that they are all done according to these instructions. Otherwise, there is a high probability that the work will be done poorly.

A person who loves to create and make things on his own will get great pleasure from creating a router table. This is a rather difficult, but exciting task. Making a table for a router yourself means getting a structure that costs much less than one made at the factory. When producing a milling table, it is imperative to follow safety precautions.

The milling table is designed for processing materials, cutting shaped holes, and making joints. A table made by yourself will be more economical and much more convenient than a purchased one.

Work in which it is necessary to perform milling is always associated with the movement of the tool along the surface of a rigidly fixed workpiece. However, when you need to mill a part with small dimensions, some difficulties arise. To solve this problem, you can make a table for the router yourself. In this case, the tool will have a stationary mount; the workpiece itself must move. As a result, it will be possible to quickly carry out face machining and remove overhangs.

Standard milling table

The simplest way to create a table for a router is to mount the router directly to the tabletop. Fastening occurs through a drilled hole. This setup has proven to work well. In this case, the router is located at an angle of 90° to the tabletop; it is rigidly fixed to the table, which dampens excessive vibration.

Such an installation is considered the best if the router has solid foundation, if it has the ability to regulate the immersion of the tool. The base of the router must be fixed to the tabletop so that the router can be lowered to the required depth. This installation method has some disadvantages that need to be kept in mind.

Firstly, the thickness of the table top affects the working range of the tool; it allows you to work with cutters that have long shanks.

Secondly, the work is limited by the single diameter of the hole for attaching the cutter.

And lastly, if you have one router, its constant installation and removal, changing the cutter, and adjusting the height is very inconvenient.

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Bed production

The bed is understood as the main part, without which not a single router table can do. To make it, a variety of materials are suitable. You can use metal profiles, MDF boards, wood and more.

Perhaps the most the best option there will be application metal profile. Existing butt joints are secured only with bolts during assembly. Welding work are excluded. The design will be highly reliable, it will be technologically advanced and easy to assemble.

The dimensions of the bed do not have fixed dimensions; they are selected by each craftsman purely individually. The main criterion will be the size of the parts that have to be processed. To accurately determine the dimensions of the bed, it is best to make a small sketch.

In order to make it convenient to work, the frame needs to be deepened into the floor by about 15 cm. The most important parameter the table is its height. The optimal length would be 1 m. To get maximum convenience, it is worth equipping the table for the router with adjustable supports.

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Cover device

Best suited for this part kitchen countertop, made of chipboard, having a thickness of 40 mm. This material perfectly dampens vibration, it has a hard, absolutely smooth surface on which the workpiece moves perfectly.

Modern phenolic plastic of high hardness is also suitable for the production of the lid. It has an absolutely flat surface and is not afraid of moisture. Plastic does not cause any difficulties in processing, which makes it possible to make grooves where they will be installed aluminum profiles and stops. The only drawback is its high cost.

To make router tables more reliable for long-term use, you can make an aluminum tabletop. This material never corrodes and is lightweight. But before manufacturing, aluminum must be clad so that there are no dirty marks left on the workpieces.

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Plates for installing the router into the table

Router tables have the plates needed to mount directly into the table. This method has several advantages.

Due to the fact that the plate is no more than 10 mm thick, it is possible to easily get the router to replace the cutter.

You can use additional insert plates to make it possible to use different cutter diameters. Such an insert plate can become a support plate during the operation of milling surfaces on large parts. The plate gives the router increased stability; the use of plates helps to mill wide grooves of parts.

Inserting the plate is quite difficult. Required to drill into the table first mounting hole to obtain a tight fit for subsequent insertion of the plate. When there are large gaps, increased vibration occurs. If the plate does not have a reliable, tight attachment to the table, milling accuracy will not be maintained. Drilling a hole too large into the top of the router table you are making will cause it to weaken. Therefore, when calculating the diameter of the hole, care must be taken to create reinforcement for the tabletop. It is of great importance that the table top and insert are made flush. Additional gaskets, washers, etc. will help cope with this problem.

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