Waterproofing the garage floor from groundwater. Waterproofing a Wooden Garage Floor: Important Features

High humidity in the garage threatens the appearance of mold and mildew on its walls, rotting wooden elements structures, corrosion and rusting of the car body and other metal parts, and it has a destructive effect on the foundation. Usually the cause of moisture is poor waterproofing of the garage floor, which should protect the room from moisture penetration and prevent cracks. In this article we will look at how to correctly complete this stage of construction.

When starting the construction of a garage, you should remember that it is much cheaper to immediately carry out waterproofing correctly in compliance with all the rules and recommendations than to deal with high humidity during the operation of the room and at the same time eliminate all the unpleasant consequences caused by it. Not proper waterproofing flooring can also lead to flooding of the garage with ground or flood waters, and if the structure has an inspection hole, then moisture will constantly accumulate in it, the evaporation of which will lead to damage to machine parts.

If we talk specifically about floors, they are much less likely to undergo reconstruction than all other elements, since this procedure is considered quite expensive both in terms of finances and labor costs, so you should not save at the construction stage; it is better to purchase it immediately quality materials, capable of serving for a long time.

The “right” materials for construction

To prevent water from appearing in the garage, you need to be very responsible when choosing materials. In no case should you choose expanded clay, foam and gas blocks for construction, as well as sand-lime brick. In principle, it is not advisable to purchase any brick, since it is not a waterproof material. If the brick layer can still contain a little moisture, then with constant support groundwater it quickly becomes saturated with moisture and collapses. This is why concrete is most often used in garage construction.

On modern market There is a huge range of insulating materials available, differing in installation technology, price, and duration of use. Bituminous materials common in our region correct operation serve up to 10-15 years, and new ones polymer waterproofing practically do not wear out, which allows them to be laid for the entire service life of the structure. A large number of different membranes are also offered, but when purchasing them, despite all the sellers’ assurances about reliability and efficiency, you need to take into account that the thickness of such material cannot be less than 1.5-2 mm. All super thin membranes are not suitable for waterproofing garage floors. Moreover, such isolation requires great experience performer and specialized equipment, so you shouldn’t even try to lay it yourself.

Waterproofing membranes for garage floors should not be thinner than 1.5 or 2 mm

Main types of waterproofing

Let's look at the main types of waterproofing:

Plastering, or as it is also called coating, is a thin layer special solutions that prevent moisture penetration.
Pasting – roll or sheet materials, glued to hot mastics, for example bitumen.
Penetrating, the youngest type of waterproofing. In this case, the surface to be treated is impregnated with liquid water-repellent solutions.
Powder waterproofing is a cross between the first and third types.

General technology of floor waterproofing

After the site for the construction of the garage has been marked, all soil in this area is carefully compacted. This helps prevent it from settling during operation. Now a layer of coarse sand about a meter thick is applied to this area, which also needs to be compacted. Next, a “layered” structure consisting of three layers of geotextile is laid on the sand, while between the bottom and middle it is necessary to lay waterproofing material, and between the middle and top there is a layer of thermal insulation. Now you can start laying the floors.

It is best to have a concrete floor in garages. To increase resistance to damage, it can be reinforced, and the iron frame must be welded so that its structure is unbreakable. The thickness of the concrete layer should not be less than 15 cm.

It is advisable to waterproof the foundation and floor in garages during the construction period, since these elements are least likely to undergo reconstruction

Additional waterproofing in garages

First, let's look at a garage without a basement. In this case, it is enough to prevent moisture from penetrating into the lower part of the walls along the entire perimeter of the building. To do this, horizontal waterproofing is performed from two layers of roofing felt glued to the wall and to each other hot bitumen mastic. This layer must be laid above ground level at the junction of the walls and the foundation.

Before waterproofing a garage with a basement, it is imperative to take measures to prevent groundwater and capillary moisture from entering it. To do this, to the above method, you should add vertical waterproofing that extends under the outer walls. As a rule, it is located at the level of the lower part of the foundation and covers the outer edges of the external basement walls. One of the most effective methods involves applying a layer of cement to the outside of the foundation and treating it hot mastic in two layers.

Applying bitumen mastic to the outer part of the basement of the garage to prevent the penetration of atmospheric moisture and capillary suction

When placing the basement floor below the groundwater level, there is a risk of flooding. In this case, the process of waterproofing the basement and garage floors becomes somewhat more complicated. After all the above measures for waterproofing the lower part of the foundation have been taken, the basement floor must be concreted and its surface leveled using a screed method. Now you need to glue two layers of roll or sheet waterproofing onto the bitumen, and be sure to connect with hot mastic the places where they come into contact with the layers previously laid under the garage foundation insulating material. Similarly, we connect the vertical waterproofing applied to the outer surface of the external walls with that located under the foundation. After this, you can begin waterproofing the garage floor.

Video: using liquid rubber

Waterproofing the floor in the garage should be taken seriously and it is better if it is carried out by real professionals, since only they are able to take into account all the features of the area, reliably prevent flooding of the structure and eliminate high humidity in it.

Warm, clean and dry garage - Better conditions for car storage. Moisture that gets into the caravan contributes to the formation of fungi, mold, and the emergence of corrosion foci. Flooding due to rising groundwater is a common occurrence that harms not only the structure, but also the iron horse. That is why proper waterproofing of a garage floor is important stage construction work, which needs to be thought about in advance.

Nuances of technology

Garage waterproofing is an event that helps protect the foundation and walls from weather surprises. Laying of waterproofing (regardless of the type of foundation) is carried out at a height of at least 25 cm from the ground. This distance is quite enough to protect the base of the structure from moisture.

In the area planned for construction, the soil should be compacted, which will prevent the subgrade from shrinking under the weight of the concrete slab.

It is important!
When carrying out work, it is necessary to take into account not only the level of groundwater and flood waters, but also the geographical location of the garage.

Then it is poured onto the ground quarry sand, which is covered with geotextiles. Stacked on top waterproofing membrane. If desired, you can cover the resulting “pie” with a heat insulator.

Types of waterproofing

If you are seriously thinking about the question of how to waterproof a garage with your own hands, then you should know that there are two options - horizontal and vertical waterproofing.

Horizontal is performed in a garage that does not have a basement. It most often consists of a double layer of roofing material applied to hot bitumen. Next, the floor is covered with concrete. To prevent the concrete from cracking, a frame of reinforcement is assembled around the perimeter of the garage. It must be solid, monolithic. The thickness of the concrete layer is 150 mm.

If the garage has a basement, then without additional funds moisture protection is indispensable - in addition to horizontal waterproofing, vertical waterproofing is carried out.

It is important!
Please note that vertical waterproofing is carried out not only under the internal, but also under the external edges of the walls.

The foundation surface is leveled with bitumen or cement. Is the basement located below groundwater? This means that the waterproofing takes the form of a continuous closed shell. Vertical waterproofing is a coating of polymer bitumen (double) applied to a flat cemented surface.

Laying a water-repellent layer on the floor is advisable after treating the walls. The floor layers communicate with roofing felt laid under the base base - the foundation. Hot bitumen is used for binding. Remember, cement for waterproofing must be of a low grade, while any bitumen is suitable.

Can be done in two ways:

membrane (surface) for which polymer-based solutions are suitable. The composition applied to the surface forms a water-repellent layer. The advantages of this method are speed and ease of execution;
penetrating (penetrating). IN in this case The principle of operation is different - the solution enters into a chemical interaction with concrete, displacing water from it. This leads to a change in the properties of concrete, an increase in density and protective characteristics.

But the classification does not end there. Garage basement waterproofing is divided into the following types:

non-pressure. Aimed at protection from sedimentary and flood waters. It is carried out by applying polymer-bitumen mastics. The surface must be prepared: cleaned, primed and dried;
anti-pressure, protecting from groundwater. For the arrangement you will need sludge mixtures and polymer bitumen mastics. Waterproofing is applied in several layers to a cleaned and primed surface;
capillary, protecting against moisture entering through concrete capillaries. Similar to anti-pressure waterproofing + injection protection of seams, cracks and capillaries is carried out.

However, we should not forget about other ways moisture appears. For example, condensation from water supply and heating pipes passing through the basement causes fungus to appear. It is necessary to examine communications for leaks and, if one is found, eliminate and insulate the pipeline.

Be aware of the quality of ventilation. Many people completely forget about this, but in vain. Even if the humidity in the garage is high, but the ventilation is properly arranged, there is no need to worry - the room will remain dry.

Consumption of waterproofing materials

Every car owner who wants to protect the garage from liquid ingress is primarily concerned with two questions: what products can be used and what will be the consumption? Not everyone knows that when preparing protective mixtures one should adhere to generally accepted standards. So, according to GOST, the consumption will be as follows:

In addition to the above, it is allowed to use waterproof impregnations:

drying oil + wax (10: 1.5);
drying oil + paraffin + turpentine (10: 1: 2).

The mixture is heated and applied to a dry floor.

Now you know how to waterproof your garage floor and create better conditions for storing your car. Properly equipped waterproofing will help extend the life of your car and reduce repair costs by 2 times.

When choosing waterproofing for a garage floor, pay attention to many factors, starting with lightness self-installation. Today manufacturers building materials can provide consumers with options not only for any budget, but for the most unusual purposes. They produce products that can even protect a room with a regular dirt floor from moisture.

The purpose of insulating the garage floor is to protect it from groundwater. To do this, the floor is covered with special substances or membranes that prevent moisture from penetrating into the room. Such moisture protection is selected based on your budget and the characteristics of the floor.

Classification

Depending on the type of base and location of the foundation, one of two types of waterproofing is used:

horizontal;
vertical.

The first is suitable for buildings without basements, while the second is good for garages with underground rooms.

Horizontal

Horizontal insulation from moisture prevents moisture from penetrating into the floor from below. That is, it protects against the so-called capillary suction. It is enough if the garage does not have underground parts.

Vertical

Vertical waterproofing prevents moisture from penetrating from the sides. Necessary for protecting basements, the walls of which are also underground.

Basic materials

Main waterproofing materials:

roll;
mastics;
membranes;
penetrating compounds.

The best option depends on the type of room and its floor.

Rolled

Rolled waterproofing is also called adhesive waterproofing. This name is due to the fact that it is based on gluing roll material onto a bitumen base.

Roll materials are divided into two main types:

self-adhesive;
floating

Each of them has its own advantages, but the second one, for example, roofing felt, is more often used. The undoubted advantage of this material is the combination of durability and low price. It's easy to get. In addition to roofing felt, polymers with bitumen are also used.

It is worth noting that floating waterproofing is not without certain disadvantages:

release of harmful substances when heating mastic;
the need for a gasoline or gas burner;
Some waterproofing options are still not durable.

This method requires additional primer concrete screed.
Self-adhesive rolls are easier to install. No need to use additional materials and burners. What distinguishes them is high level screed protection, as well as the ability to serve for many years. At the same time, they stand more expensive materials for floating insulation.
Waterproofing mastic
Mastic is not as popular for foundation insulation as compared to some other materials, but it is quite capable of coping with the most important tasks of protecting the floor from moisture and temperature changes.
Mastics are divided into two types:
hot;
cold.

The first include bitumen. In the case when bitumen is used for insulation, it is heated to the temperature specified by the manufacturer, and only after that it is applied to the surface to be protected. Cold mastics do not require heating and are used immediately after purchase.
For styling, use a roller or a fairly wide brush. Her simplicity is one the most important advantages mastic insulation. But not the only one. In addition to this, there are:
elasticity;
the ability to choose the desired color;
absence of pores;
low cost;
exceptional lightness.

Thanks to additional fillers such as polymer and rubber granules, such insulation increases the life of the floor.
Penetrating composition
A penetrating composition applied to a concrete floor can protect it additionally and increase the level of resistance adverse effects environment. This composition is based on quartz sand, cement and additional substances that have an active effect.
There are three types of such protection:
polymer cement;
concreting;
inorganic cement.

Each type has its own advantages, and they are chosen based on the tasks they solve. So, polymer cement waterproofing - suitable choice for floors on wood or brick base. It is considered environmentally friendly. At the same time, concreting is needed by those for whom it is important to increase the level of frost resistance of the concrete floor. In addition, it can increase the strength of the floor material.
Inorganic insulation will be needed if you plan to install a bathhouse or sauna in the garage. The floor is covered with impregnation, and it penetrates deep into the pores of the concrete, where it reacts with lime components.
Membrane
Membrane waterproofing is more common than others. It is called that because an insulating film or membrane is laid to protect the floor. Its thickness must be at least 20 micrometers.
Why did this method of insulation acquire big number fans? It's all about the pros:
low cost;
long service;
low weight;
ease of DIY installation.

To speed up and simplify installation work, purchase a film whose width covers the entire floor of the room. In this case, material consumption is significantly reduced. Otherwise, when installation work The membrane strips are laid with a twenty-centimeter overlap on each other. Provide a ten-centimeter overlap on the walls. The seams are taped with bitumen tape.
Technology of work execution
Make your garage floor and foundation insulation your own with my own hands in most cases it is quite simple. The main thing is to choose the right type of waterproofing and not forget about all the stages of preparation.
The primary preparatory stage is leveling the area where the floor is located. It should not have any unevenness, and it should be compacted well. In case we are talking about earthen field- use geotextiles.
On the ground
Properly equipped waterproofing is a necessity when it comes to a dirt field. If it is absent, the room will quickly become damp, and the things in it will begin to become moldy.
A simple way to insulate a dirt floor is with plastic film. It is taken at least a millimeter thick. Such a membrane is placed on the ground after the soil has been leveled, compacted well and geotextiles have been placed on top. Eliminate the presence of any irregularities and gusts. Provide an overlap of at least 10 centimeters on the walls.
By overlap
Floors are usually laid if you plan to organize a basement or inspection pit under the garage. Many owners of such garages are wondering whether it is worth installing waterproofing in this case at all? No, there is no particular need for it.
Insulate the floor of the basement or pit. As an alternative, a mastic or penetrating compound is used.

On a concrete floor
If the insulation is made using a ready-made concrete floor, then first of all the screed is coated with a special primer mastic. Its task is to enable sheets of roofing felt to stick to concrete. Apply the primer as carefully as possible, and do not leave any missing areas. For application, use a large round brush, which is dipped into a heated, pre-purchased substance. They cover not only the floor, but also the walls to the height of the insulating material.
Ruberoid is glued with an overlap of at least 10 centimeters. They are placed on the walls to a height of up to 30 centimeters.
What difficulties might you encounter?
Difficulties encountered when waterproofing a garage are poor quality materials and problems with groundwater. Problems can be solved quite simply - by purchasing materials from proven brands and preparation.
Conclusion
Insulating your garage floor from moisture requires choosing the right type of materials. To do this, they proceed not only from the budget, but also from the characteristics of the room. Don't forget about the right technology styling

A clean, warm and dry garage is a guarantee that your car will not break down “by itself” ahead of time. And, on the contrary, if it contains high humidity– fungus and corrosion form on the car body and its other metal parts, and later the body will simply begin to rot. In addition, high humidity will have a bad effect on the garage itself, both metal and stone, especially if it has wooden floors.

It is more correct (and less expensive, both in terms of money and time) to provide for waterproofing of the floor at the construction stage. However, if necessary, it can be done in a ready-made garage.

Insulating a wooden floor

Waterproofing wooden floor in the garage is especially important, since wood is more susceptible to harmful effects moisture. The wooden floor in the garage does not last long anyway - about 5 years, and if waterproofing is not done, it will fail much faster.

Waterproofing a wooden floor in a garage can be done with your own hands without any problems; there is no need to call specialists for this.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

Making the base of the floor. You can make the pillars from brick, cast them from concrete, or make a solid concrete base. The latter method is more expensive, but much faster, since pouring an even base is much easier than aligning all the columns to the same level.
Installed wooden joists . They must be treated with special impregnation. They are installed on a sand and gravel cushion, which should also be treated with a waterproofing compound.
If you are going to insulate the floor in a room - It's better to make two layers wood covering . Between the layers of rough and finishing coatings, a layer of insulating material is also laid - on top of the heat-insulating layer. It is also necessary not to forget about vapor barrier. Boards and rough, and finishing coating must be treated with moisture-proof impregnation. It is necessary to choose a fairly dry forest - with a humidity percentage of 10-12%.
If you are doing a single layer coating, then roofing felt should be laid on top of the concrete “base”, gluing it with bitumen, or euroroofing felt. When purchasing euroroofing felt, check with the sellers which brand is best to use.
The top of the wooden covering also needs to be treated with impregnation against rotting and against the formation of mold.

Do not forget that waterproofing the floor is not everything: you also need to insulate the walls and roof from moisture penetration. Only in this case will the building itself and the car inside it be safe from moisture.

Remember the choice of flooring material: you can use oak or larch wood, such a floor will last longer, but it will be very expensive. Of the “budget” options, the best is to use pine, since wood coniferous trees nevertheless, it is less susceptible to rotting due to the resins it contains.

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Before all other types of flooring in the garage, concrete surface There are undeniable advantages in the form of practicality and durability. Of course, it will cost much more than a compacted earthen floor, but in terms of reliability and convenience it will give it an impressive head start. The main thing is that you can handle the creation of a concrete foundation in the garage on your own, thereby saving a lot of money. This article will talk about how to make a concrete floor in a garage with your own hands.

Basics of installing a concrete floor in a garage

An earthen floor is usually made as a temporary solution, but before proceeding interior decoration garage, it is usually replaced with a durable one concrete base.

The process is slow and labor-intensive, especially since it will be necessary to build inspection hole. Without this element, the garage will be less functional. Taking this into account, the process of installing a concrete floor will be divided into the following stages:

creating a pit;
marking the base level and preparing the soil;
laying a cushion of crushed stone and sand;
waterproofing;
reinforcement;
direct filling.

Now you can begin step-by-step progress towards the dream of strong field in the garage.

To make a viewing hole in the garage or not

Of course, an inspection pit is needed only for those who like to repair cars themselves and know all the intricacies of the process. On the other hand, there is no guarantee that over time a motorist from the category of “users” will not have to retrain into the category of “service personnel.” maintenance" Therefore, it is better not to skip the stage of creating a hole, if time permits.

First you need to decide on the location of the hole. In small garages, she digs around the center of the room. The lucky owners of a more impressively sized property are more fortunate - they can dig it up a little away from the entrance to the garage.

Calculation of parameters

The length is calculated based on the same size of the car with an increase for waterproofing and pouring concrete. It is also necessary to take into account that you will have to get out from under a car driven into a hole both from the front and from the back. Therefore, when marking, 1.5 m is added to the length of the vehicle.

A width of 75 or 80 cm is sufficient. For pouring concrete or creating brick walls you need to add 15 cm on each side.

The height is calculated based on the height of the garage owner with an increase of 30 cm.

The walls of the inspection pit can be filled with concrete mixture - for this you will need to build internal formwork around the perimeter of the pit and assemble a reinforcing mesh. Some craftsmen prefer brick lining of the pit walls.

Along the marked boundaries, taking into account all the additions, you need to dig a pit. The main thing is to try to make the walls as even as possible, but it is not necessary to completely compare them by level. When the soil is removed to the required depth, the bottom should be compacted. To compact the floor, a small layer of clay is poured onto it and the base is re-compacted.
Waterproofing the floor in a pit can be made from roofing felt - the most a budget option or hydroisol. The latter refers to welded roll materials, has improved characteristics and costs a little more. The edges of the waterproofing layer should overlap the walls. The next step is to fill the base with concrete mixture to a height of 7 to 10 cm. The poured base is leveled and left to set; there is no need to cover it with film.

Construction of walls in an inspection pit

Once the floor has hardened, it's time to start laying the walls. Alternatively, they can be brick. For the walls you should take burnt red brick. If desired, it can be replaced aerated concrete blocks. The masonry is carried out along the perimeter of the entire pit at the same time, be sure to check the level and retreat approximately 15 cm from the edge of the pit. Subsequently, this gap will be required for waterproofing the masonry, and the excess distance will be filled with soil.
It is better to remove excess mortar immediately so as not to knock the hardened mixture off the bricks later. Masonry is carried out using the “brick on edge” method. This allows you to create a fairly strong wall small height and will significantly save space in the pit. The shift of each subsequent row is standard - half a brick.

Approximately every 2-3 rows, the evenness of the masonry should be checked with a level; the maximum height that can be increased at a time is no more than 6 rows. The same requirement is observed when pouring walls with concrete. You can't fill the voids in three or four passes.
The last row should be below the threshold level (by 6 or 7 cm), because subsequently the perimeter wall will be covered by a metal profile. It, in turn, also should not be level with the concrete base, because the hole is covered with boards until it is needed. The level of overlap will exactly coincide with the poured floor.

Waterproofing walls

Waterproofing walls with outside begins two to three days after the final row of bricks is laid.
Using a thick roller, the entire surface of the masonry should be treated with a primer. In order to operate more conveniently, the roller needs to be extended by attaching it to a long thin handle.
Bitumen mastic is heated to desired temperature specified in the instructions. Also, using a roller, it must be applied in a dense layer over the dried primer.

After the mastic hardens, the void between brickwork and the earthen walls of the pit can be covered with soil. The procedure cannot be carried out in one go. It is carried out gradually and alternates with careful compaction of the newly added layer.
If you rush, the uncompacted soil will eventually sag under its own weight, and the concrete base around the perimeter of the pit will crack.

Do-it-yourself concrete floor in the garage

To mark the level of the future concrete floor, it is more convenient to use laser level, in this case the task will be completed in a short time literally in minutes. You will have to work a little longer with the water level. Some craftsmen advise first making a rough marking at a height of a meter from the base, and then evenly lowering the line to the desired mark. The marking line can be marked off with a cord, and we can assume that zero level defined

Preparing the base

The time has come for the usual for all masters preparatory stage, which precedes the pouring of the concrete floor in the garage.

It is possible that since the installation of the inspection pit, debris or excess soil has remained on the floor. All this needs to be removed and the floor deepened another 30 cm. There is no need to achieve absolute evenness, but visible unevenness and bumps should be leveled. Now the soil is compacted with a tamper.
Next, pour a small layer of clay and sand - about 3-5 cm, moisten it generously with water and compact it thoroughly. At this stage it is better to linger thoroughly, because a high-quality subfloor is first of all dense and hard.

The gravel-sand mixture is poured in a uniform layer of 10 cm. This requirement is difficult to comply with if the garage is of impressive size. In this case, you need to drive pegs into the floor that would protrude to the required height. Based on them, you can create an even pillow even on very large area. The main thing is that the marks are placed often enough and are located evenly over the entire floor area.
After the gravel has been scattered, it is also compacted, then the pegs are removed, and the same gravel is laid into the resulting voids. In small garages, it is enough to install visible beacons in each corner and approximately in the center of all walls.
Sand can be of any fraction, even an admixture of clay is allowed, but without foreign inclusions, debris or large lumps. It is convenient to pour sand in small piles on the floor and level it with a long, even strip, moving backwards. The sand layer is also moistened with water and tapped thoroughly to compact it. Using a level or the same long river, you need to check the pillow for the absence of unevenness and changes.
The layer of crushed stone should not exceed 5 cm in height. It is leveled, compacted and again sprinkled with a little layer of sand. Then the entire area of the future floor must be tamped again. A reinforcing mesh can be laid on top.

This layered “pie” will be crowned with a layer of skinny concrete. Its strength properties are very low, but it will play the role of a leveling layer. To do this, you will need to move: 3 parts of sand (pre-sifted); 1 part cement; 6 parts of fine crushed stone.
All ingredients are mixed dry and then diluted with water. The resulting mass is poured onto crushed stone and leveled with a rule or a long lath with smooth edges. The thickness of the layer of lean concrete should be about 3 cm. It is left to dry.

Waterproofing a concrete floor in a garage

The layer of hardened lean concrete must be treated with a primer. When the soil dries, you can do waterproofing. It is allowed to use any weldable materials, bitumen mastic, plastic film or liquid rubber.

Any waterproofing that is created from sheets must be overlapped by 10 cm. Ruberoid adheres very well to hot mastic, creating an excellent coating with hydrophobic properties.

How to assemble the “frame” of a concrete floor?

Reinforcing mesh is never laid directly on the surface. It is raised above the floor a couple of centimeters. You can use stands sold in stores, but small cement cakes or broken bricks also do the job well.
The mesh itself with cells 15 × 15 or 10 × 10 can be welded from reinforcement yourself. A rod thickness of 5 mm is sufficient. But ready-made reinforcing sheets are sold on construction markets and are inexpensive - a good option for those who are in a hurry to finish the work and do not know how to work with welding.
There is no need to press the mesh close to the wall. There should be a gap of 5 centimeters along the perimeter between the reinforcing fabric and the walls of the garage. They do the same, covering the floor around the inspection hole with mesh.

How to install beacons for a concrete floor

Cement strainer always performed by beacons. They are a guarantee of a smooth floor. Beacons are installed at a distance of 1.2 or 1.5 m on piles of mortar. Metallic profile or corners are some of the commonly used materials. If pipes of small diameter (2.5 cm) are chosen as guides, it is recommended to lubricate them with machine oil.
The beacons must be laid on cement piles lined up in a row at intervals of 150 mm. Their even position relative to the horizontal is checked by level. If required, add solution or press the pipe into it. After all the longitudinal guides have been set, you can check your work: put several horizontal beacons and evaluate them by level.

It is necessary to stick damper tape around the perimeter of the garage. It fills the gap of one or a couple of centimeters between the walls and the screed. The purpose of the tape is to compensate for the pressure of the concrete floor if it “plays” over time. The cement screed will not be damaged and will last a long time.
At the same stage, the frame is welded from metal corners to the inspection hole. The 50 × 50 corner is cut into 4 pieces to size and welded into a rectangle. The frame is primed, dried and, if desired, painted. Finished part placed on the walls of the pit and, just in case, several temporary spacers are installed inside its perimeter.

How to pour a concrete floor in a garage

It often happens that there is not enough solution, or excess is formed in large quantities. To save money, you can make a preliminary calculation. The volume of the solution is calculated as follows: the estimated thickness of the concrete floor in the garage - 5 cm - multiplied by required area. If the base is 20 m², then you should count on 2 m³ of solution.
It is better not to skimp on the strength of the floor, so you need to buy cement of grade M - 500 or M - 400, and make the ratio with sand 1 to 3. That is, for three parts of sifted sand or screenings you need to take 1 measure of cement.

Density and uniformity are the main indicators of the mixture. It is poured into the spaces between the beacons and leveled using the rule. The mixture should cover the guides, but not lie on top of them in a thick layer. As you follow the rule along the beacons, you should drive off the excess solution further. With such an operation, the main thing is to press evenly on both ends of the rule and at the same time move it towards you. This not only levels the screed, but also compacts it.

Final works

After a couple of days, the guides must be removed by carefully pulling the ends. It was for this purpose that the pipes were generously lubricated with oil. Beacon furrows are being filled up cement mixture, composed in the same proportions. While the screed is drying, it needs to be moistened so that it dries evenly and does not crack.
Some craftsmen add a layer of sawdust and spray water on it. After two weeks, the floor is cleared and left to dry without additional manipulation. Complete hardening time is approximately a month.
Can serve as a coating for a concrete floor in a garage ceramic tile or rubber panels. But even without additional finishing, the concrete floor in the garage will fulfill all its functions: it will be a strong and durable foundation that is not afraid of falling tools and stains from technical fluids.

Thus, if you make a concrete floor in a garage with your own hands, its price will be exactly half as much as if you order it from a construction organization.