Waterproofing an earthen floor: types of waterproofing and device technology. Waterproofing the floor on the ground: protecting the first floor from groundwater Rolled waterproofing for the floor on the ground

An earthen floor is one of the simplest and most obvious options for installing a floor at home. In the old days, the depression was filled with several layers of tightly compacted clay. Today, earthen floors in the original sense are very rarely found in houses, bathhouses or other outbuildings. However, the very principle of constructing a covering on the ground has developed and improved; it is now known as a ground floor or floor on the ground, and is widespread in cottage construction.

An earthen floor is one of the simplest and most obvious options for installing a floor at home.

Due to the fact that the building is located on the ground, contact of the foundation and frame with moisture is inevitable even in areas with a dry climate. Exposure to moisture occurs in three ways: capillary contact groundwater with elements floor base, accumulation of water vapor and contact with precipitation.

1. In the first case, water, during periodic freezing and heating, mechanically destroys the structure of the concrete or wooden covering. In addition, mineral impurities contained in water have corrosive characteristics.
2. In the second case, water vapor causes rotting of materials and the formation of fungi, bacteria and mold that are hazardous to health. In the third case, precipitation falls on the basement of the house and penetrates into the ground. All this reduces the service life of the building several times and causes residents of the house a lot of practical inconvenience, not to mention excessive financial expenses. It is advisable to prevent premature destruction of the building even at the construction stage by carrying out proper waterproofing.

Earthen floors are often used in cottage construction

Necessary conditions for high-quality waterproofing

• Reliable waterproofing of the floor on the ground cannot be considered as a separate independent operation.
• The construction of any building begins with the development of a project, taking into account the type of soil, climate characteristics and the level of groundwater rise.
• Next comes work on the foundation, which also includes horizontal and vertical moisture insulation.
• If necessary, created drainage outlets against the entry of water from below at the base and the blind area against surface precipitation.
• Without the listed measures, even the most expensive and thorough waterproofing of floors on the ground will turn into a pointless waste of resources and time.
• The durability of a building directly depends on compliance with construction technologies and the use of quality materials.

The durability of a building directly depends on compliance with technology

Soil waterproofing technology

After the foundation has been created and the walls and ceilings have been erected, you can begin to install the floor. In general, the entire floor structure is a multi-layer cushion of reinforcing, insulating and insulating materials, or the so-called “pie”. Below is the procedure for laying floor tiers.

The lower base is compacted native soil, the upper part of which is removed at the stage of laying the foundation. Good decision is considered to be the laying of a tightly compacted layer of uniformly mixed clay. Clay allows moisture to pass through to a small extent, acting as a reliable barrier to groundwater. However, this step requires additional time for shrinkage and is rarely used.

The soil inside the contour of the foundation walls is covered with sand to a height of 10 centimeters or more. The sand is compacted using special equipment and further settled using irrigation. For this type of work it is necessary to use river sand of any size, which has high ability let water through. Other types of sand may contain clay impurities and are not suitable for these purposes.

A good solution is to lay a tightly compacted layer of uniformly mixed clay.

Next, coarse crushed stone is poured to approximately the same height and compacted just as thoroughly. Has the highest strength and frost resistance granite crushed stone, therefore it is preferred over gravel. It should be clarified that sand and crushed stone together create a cushion that prevents water from rising from below. A large stone is used for the reason that the voids between the individual grains do not allow water to create pressure and rise up. At this stage, the building is protected against capillary wetting. At the same time, both layers, when compacted by their own weight, press on the soil below, which also contributes to waterproofing and the overall strength of the structure, as well as the stability of the foundation.

Large crushed stone will not allow water to rise up

At the next stage, the work will vary depending on what kind of floor is provided in the building: concrete or wood. A non-rotting geotextile material is laid on the crushed stone, which will not allow concrete to leak into the gravel layer. Filled from above cement strainer low strength. The thickness of the layer is calculated by designers based on the expected load of the building on the base. This screed is a preparation before waterproofing and is called a subfloor. For wooden floor A frame with joists is built over the primary screed, and a subfloor made of boards or plywood is placed on them.

Next, the floor is directly waterproofed over the ground; at present, it practically coincides with the vapor barrier. There are several types of floor waterproofing: coating, plaster, pasting, cast and impregnating. Each method has its own characteristics, which should be carefully studied, compared and selected the most optimal in terms of price and quality.

Film waterproofing gender

When using the coating method, they use liquid sealants, microsolutions, rubber compounds and polymer varnishes. The method is relatively easy to use, does not require special skills and complex equipment. Plaster insulation refers to coating insulation and differs in materials. It uses plaster solutions higher density with fillers, cement, polymers or gypsum.

Various mixtures are used in the coating method

In adhesive insulation, specially designed roll, tile or sheet materials, for example, polyethylene, polypropylene, polyvinyl chloride films, diffusion membranes, roofing felt, roofing felt. There are often economical recommendations using film as an insulator. The film is laid with a lift on the walls and an overlap of 10 - 15 cm at the edges, the seams between the strips are taped. It should be noted that with the slightest damage and rupture of the film, the insulating role loses its effect. Compared to bitumen-based roll materials, a film with more than one layer is significantly inferior in strength and service life. It is much more effective to fuse rolled bitumen material onto the screed with the obligatory approach to walls with a height of several centimeters up to top level foundation.

The film is applied to the floor and rises slightly to the walls
Ideal for waterproofing roll materials

Cast waterproofing consists of filling the surface with a continuous layer of special hot mastic. This process is more labor-intensive than others, as it requires special training and equipment. The surface to be coated must be dust-free, leveled, absolutely dry and pre-primed with a bitumen solution. For greater efficiency, the process is repeated two or more times.

For greater efficiency, the process should be repeated several times.

Impregnation waterproofing of the floor - application to the base of a substance that can be absorbed by concrete and stone surfaces. The materials are mixtures containing bitumen, polymers, liquid glass, synthetic resins. Distinctive feature This method can be called the fact that it is used not only at the construction stage, but also when it is necessary to repair a house.

This method can be used not only at the construction stage, but also when renovating a house.

With regard to a wooden floor, it should be noted that the underground must be ventilated either naturally or forcedly. This must be taken care of at the stage of laying the foundation. All wooden elements structures are coated several times with liquid protective compounds. The subfloor can be covered with film, cast or impregnated methods.

At the end waterproofing works The surface is laid with insulation. The most common is extruded polystyrene - a durable option with a low water saturation coefficient. The connection between the foundation, walls and floor is relatively vulnerable low temperatures. It is advisable to additionally equip the lower sides of the walls with vertical pieces of polystyrene. Instead, fibrous layers of mineral and slag wool, foam glass, and expanded clay can be used.

Film waterproofing is perfect for a balcony

If a vapor barrier was not provided during waterproofing, it is made on top of the insulation layer. Suitable as a protective layer different kinds specialized films or liquid rubber.

Waterproofing floors on the ground is effective in combination with other construction measures

The last floating screed reinforced with mesh is poured onto the outermost insulating layer of the concrete floor.

The final stage is the installation of any finishing floor covering, the choice of which is dictated by the design of the room, benefits or other considerations of the customer.

To summarize, we repeat that waterproofing floors on the ground is effective in combination with other construction measures. Compliance with technology and responsible selection of materials have a direct impact on the quality of workmanship. When choosing them, it is necessary to evaluate technical indicators, quality, predicted service life, suitability in given climatic conditions, consumption, compatibility with each other, and other details. It is extremely difficult for a beginner to take into account possible risk factors. All stages of construction, including the installation of a concrete or wooden floor, are recommended to be carried out by experienced specialists.

Video: Floors on the ground. How to do it right?

Video: Floor waterproofing - repair technology

Waterproofing the floor before the screed is necessary for two reasons: firstly, it prevents the penetration of moisture vapor from the basement or from the lower floor into the concrete screed, and secondly, it protects the floor slabs from possible water leaks in wet rooms. It is especially important to perform high-quality waterproofing floor in front of the screed on the first floor of a private house that does not have a basement. Water vapor and capillary moisture rising from the ground often have an acidic or alkaline environment; they actively interact with the components of concrete, and after just a few years the screed can become covered with a network of cracks and begin to collapse.

Types of floor waterproofing before screed

There are several ways to waterproof a floor before screeding. In private houses without basement A gravel-sand cushion is often used as the first layer of waterproofing. First, gravel or crushed stone is poured under the base of the floor, compacted, and then covered with sand. The resulting cushion, due to the presence of air gaps between the particles, prevents the capillary rise of moisture from the ground. At the same time, it practically does not protect from water vapor, so additional film vapor barrier is required.

Vapor and waterproofing films are used as floor waterproofing before screeding not only in private houses, but also in city apartments. Films allow you to create a moisture-proof coating and protect the screed from water vapor and moisture emanating from the floor slabs, as well as the slab itself from water leaks in wet rooms.

The third type of floor waterproofing before screed is coating waterproofing. It is performed with mastics based on bitumen or rubber, applied in several layers. A distinctive feature of this screed is its ability to fill any uneven surfaces, which is especially convenient when large quantities pipe penetrations.

Moreover, to give concrete slabs overlapping waterproofing properties, they can be treated with a solution of impregnating waterproofing. This technology is relatively new, but has already gained popularity among builders due to its simplicity and efficiency. The concrete is impregnated with a solution of penetrating waterproofing on the surface on either side of the ceiling, after which needle-shaped crystals begin to grow in the pores of the concrete when interacting with its components, preventing the penetration of moisture into the thickness of the concrete.

Technology for making gravel-sand cushion

Technology for waterproofing floors using roll materials

Technology for waterproofing floors using coating waterproofing

For reliable waterproofing before screeding, you can use more than one method. For example, when waterproofing the floor in a private house without a basement, you can make a gravel-sand cushion, lay a layer of insulation and waterproofing film on top of it, and only then install the reinforcement and pour the screed. In an apartment on the first floor, located above the basement, you can use penetrating waterproofing of floor slabs in combination with roll or coating waterproofing. In wet areas of apartments located on upper floors in an apartment building, where any leak may entail compensation for damage to neighbors, it is better to install double waterproofing: before screeding and on top of it. In this case, roll materials are used under the screed, and coating waterproofing is performed on top of the screed.

The simplest and in an accessible way execution rough coating For a room of any purpose, it is necessary to install a concrete floor on the ground. Although the procedure does not require special skills, the quality of the final floor directly depends on compliance with certain technical points related to its arrangement. We will discuss below how to make a concrete floor on the ground and how to pour a concrete floor on the ground.

Characteristics and components of a concrete floor on the ground

When installing any floor on the ground, the main thing is to ensure high-quality thermal insulation. It is precisely because of its installation that in the end it is possible to obtain a multi-layer floor, called a pie.

The production of floors on the ground directly depends on the type of soil and its characteristics. The first and most important requirement for the soil is the level at which groundwater is located, which should be at least 500-600 cm from the surface. In this way, it will be possible to avoid movement and heaving of the soil, which will be reflected on the floor. In addition, the soil should not be loose.

For more high-quality execution All work should determine the requirements for installing thermal insulation, which are as follows:

• prevention of heat loss;
• protection against groundwater penetration;
• providing sound insulation;
• prevention of vaporization;
• ensuring a comfortable and healthy indoor microclimate.

A warm concrete floor on the ground contains the following components and stages of work:

1. Cleaning the soil from the top layer. In addition, the surface is carefully leveled.

3. Then a bed of gravel or crushed stone is installed on the sand. It is this area that prevents the rise of groundwater, in addition, it additionally levels the surface. The thickness of the filler layer is about eight centimeters.

4. The next layer is the use of reinforced steel mesh. It is an excellent fixer for concrete bases. In addition, it is a place for fixation metal pipes. Reinforced mesh It is not used in all cases, but only when additional strengthening is necessary.

5. The next layer is more than 5 cm thick and is the subfloor. Concrete solution is used for its arrangement. After it gains strength within 2-3 weeks, the next layer of “pie” is installed on the surface.

6. This layer contains a special membrane or waterproofing film, which prevents the risk of absorbing excess liquid concrete base. The film is laid with an overlap; to avoid the appearance of cracks, construction tape is used to seal all joint areas.

7. Next stage- installation of insulation, which is recommended to use foamed polystyrene foam or polystyrene high density, having a foil coating. If there is too much load on the floor, it is better to use insulation in the form of slabs.

8. Next, waterproofing or roofing felt is installed. After which the construction of the true screed is carried out. It is on it that the final finishing coat. The thickness of this layer is from 8 to 11 cm. This screed requires mandatory reinforcement.

Concrete floor in a house on the ground: advantages and disadvantages of arrangement

Among the advantages of making a concrete floor on the ground are:

• security reliable protection bases from the effects of low temperatures, the soil on which the floor is installed always differs only in temperature above zero;
• diversity thermal insulation materials for floor insulation allows you to build a structure with good performance preventing heat loss;
• the resulting floor is finished with any of the existing floor coverings;
• no special calculations are required for the floor, since the entire load is taken by the ground covering;
• installing heated floors perfectly heats the room; in addition, they heat up quickly enough, and the heat is distributed evenly throughout the room;
• heated floors on the ground have good sound insulation characteristics;
• In addition, mold and dampness practically do not form on such a floor.

Among the disadvantages of a rough concrete floor on the ground are:

• when using a multi-layer floor, the height of the rooms is significantly reduced;
• if problems occur, dismantling work will require a lot of material resources;
• arranging a floor on the ground requires a large investment of material, physical and time resources;
• If the groundwater is too high or the soil is very loose, it is not possible to install such a floor.

Construction of a concrete floor on the ground: selection of materials

As mentioned earlier, to install a concrete floor on the ground you will need to build multilayer construction. It is recommended to use as the first layer river sand, then crushed stone or expanded clay.

After their installation, the rough screed is installed, waterproofing film and thermal insulation. Next, a finishing screed is installed, which is the basis for laying finishing materials.

The main function of sand and crushed stone is to protect the room from moisture penetration. When using crushed stone, it must be thoroughly compacted, and the crushed stone must be treated with bitumen.

If the soil is too wet, the use of expanded clay is unacceptable. Because it absorbs excess moisture and then changes its shape. After covering the layer with a polyethylene-based film, pour rough screed, a layer of about eight centimeters. Next, waterproofing is installed on it from two polyethylene layers laid overlapping. Please note that the polyethylene must be very tightly connected to each other to prevent moisture from entering the room.

• extruded polystyrene foam;
• mineral wool;
• foam glass;
• polystyrene foam, etc.

After this, the finishing screed is arranged, which mandatory reinforced. To ensure the evenness of the screed, it is recommended to use beacons.

Concrete floor on the ground manufacturing technology

The construction of the floor should begin only after the walls and roof have already been erected. Manufacturing procedure concrete covering on the ground includes the following stages:

• carrying out work to determine the height of the floor and marking it;
• cleaning the top layer of soil and compacting the base;
• installation of gravel or crushed stone;
• hydro- and thermal insulation works;
• strengthening the concrete screed;
• installation of formwork for pouring mortar;
• direct filling.

The ground floor is built so that it is flush with the doorway. Markings should be applied around the perimeter of the building. To do this, marks are placed on the walls at a distance of 100 cm from the bottom of the opening. When the marking is completed, you should lower it back one meter. This line will become a guide for pouring concrete. To make marking easier, you should install pegs in the corner parts of the room on which the ropes are tensioned.

The next stage of work involves clearing the base from the top layer of soil. First you need to get rid of any debris on the floor. Gradually remove all of the top soil. The concrete floor on the ground has the appearance of a structure, up to 35 cm thick. Therefore, the soil that is removed from the surface must be exactly this thickness.

Using special equipment, such as a vibrating plate, the surface is compacted. If it is not available, it is enough to use wooden log, with handles previously nailed to it. The resulting base should be even and dense. There should be no marks left on it while walking.

If the soil is located lower than the doorway, only the upper part is removed, the surface is compacted well, and then covered with sand.

Next, work is carried out on the installation of gravel and crushed stone. After compacting the base layer, gravel is backfilled; the thickness of this layer is about 10 cm. Tip: After filling, the surface is watered and compacted again. To simplify control over the evenness of the surface, it is necessary to drive pegs into the ground, set in relation to the level.

After the gravel layer, leveling is done with sand. The layer should have the same thickness, about 10 cm. In order to control the evenness of the surface, use the same pegs. To construct this layer, it is recommended to use ravine sand, which has various impurities.

Crushed stone is laid on the sand, with a fraction of 4x5 cm. Next, it is compacted, and the surface is sprinkled with sand, leveled and compacted. Lay the crushed stone in such a way as to avoid the appearance of protruding edges on the surface.

Please note that each of the layers laid on the floor must first be checked for horizontalness. Therefore, during the work, use a building level.

Thermal and waterproofing of concrete floors on the ground

To create a waterproofing layer, it is sufficient to use a polyethylene film or membrane. Waterproofing material should be rolled out along the entire perimeter of the floor, try to bring its extreme sections a few centimeters beyond the zero markings. The sheets are overlapped and fixed to the surface with tape.

In order to improve the thermal insulation of the floor and prevent the ground from freezing, it is recommended to treat the floor with mineral wool.

Features of reinforcing a concrete floor on the ground

In order for concrete to acquire the required strength, it must be reinforced. To perform this process, it is recommended to use a metal or plastic mesh, reinforcement bars or reinforcing wire.

To install the reinforcing frame, special stands should be equipped, the height of which is about 2.5 cm. Thus, they will be located directly on the concrete floor.

Please note that the application plastic mesh involves tensioning it on previously driven pegs. When using wire, the manufacture of a reinforcing frame will require welding and skill in working with it.

In order for the pouring procedure to go quickly and the result to be of high quality, the guides should be installed and the formwork mounted. Divide the room into several equal sections, the width of which is no more than 200 cm. Install guides in the form of wooden blocks, the height of which is equal to the distance from the floor to the zero mark.

To fix the guides, use thick cement, clay or sand mortar. Formwork is installed between the guides, which forms cards filled with concrete mortar. It is recommended to use moisture-resistant plywood or wooden boards as formwork.

Please note that the guides and formwork are brought to zero and aligned with the horizontal surface. In this way, it will be possible to obtain a base that is even. Before installing the guides and formwork, they should be treated with a special oil, which will facilitate the procedure of pulling them out of the concrete mixture.

Technology of pouring a concrete floor on the ground

Filling is carried out once or maximum twice. Thus, it will be possible to build a homogeneous and powerful structure. In order for the concrete floor on the ground to serve its owners with their own hands for a long time, it is best to order a special concrete solution from the factory. Its strength and quality are much higher than those prepared at home.

To make your own solution, you will need a concrete mixer, cement grade of at least 400, river sand and filler in the form of crushed stone.

In order to prepare a concrete solution, you should mix one part of cement, two parts of sand and four parts of filler, and, based on the total amount of ingredients, half of the part of water will be required.

All ingredients are mixed in a concrete mixer, make sure that all ingredients are mixed well together. Start pouring the floor from an area opposite to the entrance to the room. Fill three or four cards at once, and then use a shovel to level the composition over the entire surface.

To ensure good adhesion of concrete to the surface, it is recommended to use a hand-held concrete vibrator.

After most of the cards are filled, it is necessary to perform a rough leveling of the surface. For these purposes, you will need a rule two meters wide, which stretches smoothly across the floor. This rule will help get rid of excess concrete that ends up in empty cards. After leveling, remove the formwork and fill the remaining areas with mortar.

After leveling the entire floor area, cover the floor with polyethylene film and leave for a month. Please note that after several days, the surface is constantly moistened with water to avoid drying out of the concrete, the formation of cracks and looseness of the base.

The final stage involves treating the floor using mixtures on a self-leveling basis, which are used to equip the screed. It is the mixture that will help make the base perfectly smooth and eliminate minor surface irregularities.

Work also begins from the corner opposite the door; it is recommended to use a shovel to apply the solution, and a rule to level the base.

The floor is left to settle for 72 hours. Next, the floor is ready for laying finishing materials for flooring. It is this type of concrete floors on the ground in a private house that will provide a strong and durable foundation.

Concrete floors on the ground video:

At self-construction country house on a strip foundation in areas with a low groundwater level, it makes sense to make a concrete floor on the ground with your own hands, since this technology is the fastest, most economical and allows you to do without the use of special equipment.

In addition, this floor design is more reliable and durable than ground floors without concrete, and does not require additional maintenance during operation.

Installing a concrete floor requires certain techniques.

Features of laying floors on the ground

In order to study this issue in detail, this article will consider the construction of a concrete floor on the ground in residential buildings with strip foundation.

In addition, the reader will be offered detailed instructions, which presents the technology of a concrete floor on the ground with step by step description implementation of all technological stages of construction.

Sectional diagram of a concrete floor.

Preparatory work

It is recommended to begin work on the flooring after the walls of the building have been erected, window and door openings have been closed and the roof has been installed, and the average daily ambient temperature does not fall below +5°C.

Before pouring the concrete floor onto the ground, it is necessary to make a sand and gravel cushion.

1. Clear the area of ​​land inside the building of construction debris and remove upper layer soil to a depth of 200-300 mm, after which the surface of the earth is compacted using manual tamper or vibrating plates.
2. Make markings along the internal perimeter of the walls of the building, outlining the zero mark of the subfloor. Using a hydraulic level, check that the zero mark is at the same height in all rooms.
3. On compacted soil, fill with sand and gravel, which consists of a layer of gravel 50 mm thick and a layer of sand 100-150 mm thick.
4. Moisten the surface of the pillow generously with water, compact it, and then pour thin layer crushed stone with a particle fraction of 40-60 mm.
5. Lightly sprinkle the crushed stone with sand, then moisten it with water and compact it again.

The photo shows the pouring of reinforced monolithic slab.

Advice! When pouring a sand and gravel cushion, it is necessary to control it using building level so that all backfill layers are strictly parallel to the horizon.

Pouring a monolithic slab

The next stage of construction is the production of a monolithic reinforced concrete slab, which will perform load-bearing functions and take on the entire main load on the floor. For this reason, it must be reinforced steel mesh, and its thickness should be at least 80-100 mm.

1. Place waterproofing made of thick polyethylene film on the sand and gravel cushion so that it extends onto the walls to a height of at least 500 mm.
2. On low spacers, lay a metal reinforcing mesh on the floor so that at the joints it has an overlap of at least 100 mm.
3. Prepare a concrete solution and distribute it evenly over the entire area of ​​the room in a layer at least 80 mm thick.
4. Using a level, by measuring the distance to the finished floor marks, check that the poured surface is strictly horizontal.

After the mortar has set, the surface must be left for at least one week until the concrete has completely hardened.

Diamond drilling of holes in concrete using special power tools.

Insulation and waterproofing

The concrete floor, in contact with the ground, is a source of penetration of moisture and cold, therefore, to ensure a comfortable microclimate in the house, careful heating and waterproofing of the concrete floor along the ground is necessary.

1. Thick polyethylene film can be used as waterproofing, but it is best to cover the surface of the monolithic slab with a layer of liquid hot bitumen.
2. Thermal insulation can be done in two ways. In the first case, a layer of blast furnace slag or expanded clay 100-200 mm thick is poured over the entire surface of the slab, but this material is hygroscopic and can absorb moisture.
3. The second option is considered more acceptable and consists of laying 50-100 mm thick extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) slabs on the floor.
4. The expanded clay fill must be distributed in an even layer, and the EPS boards must be laid tightly, without gaps, on the floor and secured using dowels with wide plastic washers.
5. On top of the insulation, it is recommended to lay another layer of waterproofing made of thick polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 200 microns, on top of which a reinforcing mesh is laid.

Laying EPS sheets.

Advice! When making a concrete floor in a garage on the ground, you can do without thermal insulation, but high-quality waterproofing must be done in any case.

Installation of finishing screed

The finishing screed serves to evenly distribute the load and lay the finishing flooring (ceramic tile, linoleum, laminate), so it must have the same thickness and a smooth, uniform surface.

The quality of this stage of work should be given Special attention, because the cost of rework, in case of technology violation, may be too high.

1. Using cement or gypsum mortar, install beacon guide rails throughout the entire area of ​​the room at a distance of at least 1 meter from each other, defining the upper level of the subfloor level.
2. Starting from the far corner of the room, fill each section of the floor, evenly distributing the cement-sand mortar over the entire surface of the filled area.
3. To do this you need to use a metal or wooden rule, moving it with vibrating movements along the guide beacons.
4. Thus, moving from one area to another, it is necessary to fill the entire room, which is recommended to be completed in one working day.
5. After setting concrete mortar It is necessary to remove the beacon guides and fill the resulting cracks with fresh cement-sand mortar.

Upon completion of this operation, the room must be left for several days until it completely hardens and dries. cement mortar. After 2-3 weeks, the floor surface must be primed. For this purpose it is best to use epoxy or polyurethane primer for concrete that must be applied using a roller.

Pouring finishing screed along the beacons.

Note! Penetrating primer for concrete floors, by binding particles of sand and cement, increases its strength and also serves as additional waterproofing.

Making the solution

Table 1 shows the proportions building materials for the production of cement-sand and concrete mortars.

Table 1.

No. Name of components Number of components Density of concrete
kg/m3 Concrete grade
kg/cm2 1 Cement, kg
Sand quartz m3 (kg)
Water, l. 240
1,15 (1950)
90…130 2200 130 2 Cement, kg
Sand quartz. m3 (kg)
Crushed dolomite or limestone, m3 (kg)
Water, l 200
0,54 (920)
0,65 (980)
90…130 2100 150

• In paragraph 1 the manufacturing recipe is indicated cement-sand mortar for finishing screed.
• Clause 2 specifies the recipe for making concrete mortar for pouring a monolithic slab.

Independent preparation of concrete mortar.

Conclusion

After reading this article, it becomes clear that self-production concrete floor in country house almost anyone can do it home handyman(find out how to seal cracks in concrete here).

To obtain Additional information on this issue, you can watch the video in this article or read similar materials on our website.

When I started writing an article about how to make floors on the ground in a private house and it exceeded 1.5 thousand words, I decided to break the article into several parts. In this part I will talk about the scope of application of floors on the ground, floor construction.

Floor on the ground - this is not concrete screed, but the whole structure of the floor of the house, which has its own characteristics and nuances.

What is “ground flooring”

Floors on the ground are floors laid on the ground inside a strip foundation, on which there are no load-bearing structures such as columns or walls. This design is used under the following conditions:

1. Low groundwater level;
2. There is no basement under the entire house;
3. Such floors can only have partitions, not columns;
4. The soils are motionless.

In other words, this design is used only inside a strip foundation. If you have a marshy area or peat, then you need pile foundation or a slab, but not tape and floors on the ground.

Laying floors on the ground in a private house

The design or pie of floors on the ground is as follows (from bottom to top):

1. Compacted soil;
2. Large crushed stone fractions 20-70 mm – 40-50 mm;
3. Fine crushed stone fraction 10-20 mm – 40-50 mm;
4. Sand – 20-40 mm;
5. Polyethylene film;
6. Concrete preparation reinforced with reinforcing mesh – 100 mm;
7. EPPS insulation – 50-80 mm;
8. Mesh screed – 40-50 mm;
9. Finishing the floor.

Almost everywhere where something is being built, there is a fertile layer from 20 to 50 cm. According to SNiP standards, it must be removed to prevent the invasion of any spider bugs into the house and to exclude biological contamination such as fungus on the walls.

But in fact this is done very rarely.

Second important point- this is backfilling with crushed stone of different fractions and sand at the end. Again, this is difficult (try scattering crushed stone of fraction 20-70 with your hands) and expensive.

So it is better to backfill with clay or loam. Very preferably without stones.

As a rule, home communications are hidden in the backfill: sewerage, water and electricity. And if there are stones or, God forbid, huge cobblestones, when redeveloping or replacing communications, you will curse the hour when you decide to fill it with stones or cobblestones.

I speak from my own experience: I laid a sewer system in my house under construction, and at the last moment my wife decided to swap the room and kitchen. And we had to redo the sewer system, which meant digging everything up again. So I am very grateful to the person who talked me out of backfilling construction waste base

The difference between soil and slab floors

The plate rests on strip foundation and therefore it is reinforced according to the rules for slab reinforcement: in two grids, with reinforcement with a cell of 200 x 20 mm, and so on. This is done on the basis that the slab will support everything that is on it, even if the soil is completely removed from under it. That is, it actually seems to hang in the air. Because of this, polystyrene foam is often placed under the slab for thermal insulation or expanded clay is poured.

To my taste, it’s all oil and butter: the slab itself is a wonderful foundation, and then there’s the tape. In general, the waste of materials is simply monstrous.

And floors on the ground do not rest on the foundation strip. At all. This floor design rests on the ground. Bearing structures are located strictly above the foundation and transmit loads from the upper structures vertically downward. Floors on the ground seem to float on the ground separately. They are not related to load-bearing walls no way.

But don't be afraid of it! Such floors in the form concrete preparation are located inside the tape card and therefore skew cannot occur. Considering the large area of ​​the floor slab, the independent displacement of the floors from the house is small, and the resulting crack is just covered by the baseboard.

Thanks to this, concrete and reinforcement are significantly saved. If a slab requires 2 meshes of 12 reinforcement and at least 16 cm of concrete, then for concrete preparation of floors on the ground you can easily get by with 10 cm of concrete and reinforcing mesh VR-II 5 mm with cell 150 x 150 mm.

Again, according to the rules, floors on the ground are not made on top interior wall foundation strips. But in fact, if they are on top and reinforced with mesh, then nothing terrible will happen. And if the soil is compacted conscientiously, then there won’t even be a crack.

Is waterproofing necessary in ground floor construction?

The main question that constantly arises is whether to make waterproofing from polyethylene film.

It is not clear why, but literally all developers and simple onlookers-advisers do not want to make waterproofing from film, motivating this by the fact that, they say, the foundation is deep and the groundwater is low. It's worth it though mere pennies, and it’s very easy to do.

When I was making floors on the ground in the summer own home, I covered the floor in the evening before filling it with film. Where the soil had recently been compacted by pouring water, condensation formed almost immediately and the film became matte white. The rest of the film was transparent. But in the morning before pouring the film became all white and matte! This suggests that water vapor from the ground will still penetrate under the concrete preparation and then seep into the house, increasing humidity.

Therefore, it is imperative to cut off groundwater in the form of steam with a layer of waterproofing. Whether it is roofing felt, plastic film or an expensive membrane - it doesn’t matter. I chose the simplest and cheap option. Also keep in mind that the film strongly decomposes only under direct rays and depending on temperature. Under the concrete there is neither one nor the other. So it will last a long time.

The film is released on walls 15-20 cm, joined at 50 cm and tacked masking tape so that it does not move during concreting.

There are often variations in the pie different sources: do waterproofing before concrete preparation or after, before insulation.

IN real projects that I have seen, designers paint the film before concrete preparation. The point is that groundwater is often aggressive and destroys concrete. The film allows you to protect concrete and extend the service life of the building. Another advantage of the film on the bottom of the concrete is that the cement laitance will not go into the ground and the strength of the concrete will be maintained.

But it won’t be a mistake if you lay the film twice. It costs pennies.

In the next part I will move on to practical issues sales of floors on the ground.

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