The sinker is one of the consumable components of the tackle and often disappears along with the hook when biting large and strong prey. In stores, the cost of sinkers increases in direct proportion to their weight. Therefore, if catching large fish is carried out using several tackles, then purchasing sinkers becomes quite expensive.
At the same time, this element of equipment is quite simple to manufacture and practically does not require careful processing and complex preparation for use.
The material for the sinker is also quite common and accessible, so even complex sinkers can be made independently using appropriate blanks.
Simple options
The simplest thing is to make lead weights using a plaster or sand mold. This method has a number of undoubted advantages:
The use of lead and gypsum when making sinkers yourself has several significant nuances:
- at a temperature of about 200°C, water begins to actively evaporate from the gypsum, which leads to destruction of its structure and splitting of the product;
- lead is pressed into plaster when it hardens, which makes it almost impossible to remove the sinker without destroying the shape;
- the gypsum blank has a large number of micropores, which leads to the need to polish the finished product.
When using sand instead of gypsum, the process of preparing the mold is greatly simplified, however, the requirements for the material of the box in which the workpiece will be located when pouring lead are increased; it is advisable to use a metal support. The product itself will be somewhat less aesthetically pleasing and will require serious polishing.
Making simple disposable molds
The fragility and destruction of the gypsum structure when water evaporates makes it difficult to use this material for reusable use. However, as a disposable and easy-to-make mold, gypsum is ideal.
To make a shape for a simple sinker you need:
The most in a simple way Making a cone-shaped sinker is to use a paper cone in the sand:
- A paper blank (a piece of paper rolled into a cone) is inserted into any container tightly filled with sand, inserted into the sharp end of the cone metal loop for a sinker;
- Lead is melted and poured into a paper cone;
- Part of the cone burns, but during this time the lead has time to cool a little and begin to harden;
- The cooled workpiece is removed from the sand and processed with a file.
You can use aluminum foil instead of paper.
The material for the sinker is also quite common and accessible, so even complex sinkers can be made independently using appropriate blanks
Forms for regular use
A plaster mold, even a very well made and dried one, will sooner or later collapse and you will have to make a new one or use a product suitable for frequent use.
Of course, for repeated use, molds made of heat-resistant steel or cast iron are best suited, but making these yourself is almost impossible. But cement is good for creating a melting mold, although this will require a little work.
Materials and tools for reusable uniforms:
- formwork material (wooden boards);
- liquid soap;
- cement;
- round file;
- fine sandpaper;
- clamp;
- cylinders for inserting into the filler hole;
- wire for making loops for the sinker.
For repeated use, molds made of heat-resistant steel or cast iron are best suited, but making these yourself is almost impossible
Making a reusable cement mold
Creating a cement mold is quite time-consuming, this is due to the relatively long hardening of the mixture.
The process of creating the form itself looks something like this:
- Formwork is being made, preferably collapsible;
- The inner surface of the formwork is covered liquid soap and is installed on a flat surface, also treated with soapy water;
- The formwork is filled with cement mortar;
- Into cement that has not yet hardened, the desired workpiece is half-immersed;
- The cement must harden completely, this may take 1-2 days;
- After the cement has completely dried, the formwork is disassembled and reassembled for the next filling;
- The first, frozen half, together with the protruding workpiece, is greased with soap;
- The second half of the mold is prepared, cement is poured into it;
- First half with surface, covered with soapy water, is installed on the second part of the mold;
- The cement hardens again;
- After the cement has dried in both halves of the mold, with a round needle file, the central cone-shaped holes are bored out in each half for pouring lead, and two side channels are also made for air removal;
- Surface of the sinker mold processed with sandpaper;
- Before pouring the mold halves tightly fastened with a clamp.
Molds for casting several weights
For faster work, you can make molds for several weights at once. For formwork, you can use a grille from neon lamps.
When preparing a mold for several pieces, it may be necessary additional help, since you may not have time to place all the workpieces before the material used hardens.
- The porosity of the plaster mold and the tendency of lead to stick when curing can be significantly reduced using chalk or talc on the inside of the mold to fill voids and create a layer between the lead and the plaster.
- To increase the service life of the gypsum mold, you can impregnate and treat it from the inside with sealant to reduce water evaporation when pouring metal. It won't be durable, but it will probably last a few more uses.
- In the manufacture of small weights to create outlet channels You can use regular matches or nails, just stick them into the mold material before it hardens.
- Instead of soap solution and vegetable oil You can use silicone grease.
Most anglers, when equipping their fishing rods, are faced with the need to load the bait. Both bottom fishers and spinners have to weigh down their rigs or artificial fish so that they quickly reach the bottom or fly far. Sometimes during a fishing trip you can leave your entire arsenal of fishing weights in a catchable but snagged area of the reservoir. Some amateurs do not have the financial means to constantly replenish lead supplies, while other fishermen find it difficult to get to specialized stores. In such cases, molds for casting sinkers will come to the rescue. Due to the low melting point of lead and its availability, the necessary cargo can be cast directly on the shore of the reservoir. What types of weights are there?
Molds for casting from different materials
Fishermen make lead sinkers with equal success with their own hands, using factory-made or homemade molds. Basically, most designs differ in the material of manufacture. The most commonly used materials are plaster, wood, aluminum or steel.
- Disposable forms can even be made from thick paper. Many novice anglers know how to make a lead sinker for bottom fishing using a tablespoon. It is enough to pour molten lead into the concave part of a tablespoon to get a neat workpiece. All that remains is to make a hole, and the load is ready.
- The simplest mold for casting sinkers can be made from a piece of wooden lath 5-10 mm thick. Using a hacksaw and a knife, you need to make two halves of the future shape in the form of an oval or diamond. Now all that remains is to place both halves on a flat wooden or metal surface and secure them with clamps or simple stands. In the case of a sliding load, it is necessary to place a steel wire with a thickness of 0.8-1.0 mm inside. You can pour lead.
- Often fishermen are faced with the problem of how to make a mold for lead sinkers according to an existing sample. For example, every spinner should have a popular type of jig head called “Cheburashka”. And it’s not difficult to make an eared sinker based on a store sample if you make plaster mold. To pour the creamy solution, you can use 2 ordinary matchboxes. First make the dough different weights one box is filled, after which half of the Cheburashka is immersed in plaster.
- As soon as the material dries, a similar operation should be done with the second part of the mold. When the plaster dries in it, all that remains is to combine the two halves, make a hole for pouring and a side hole for air to escape. In opposite corners matchboxes Through holes are made for wire pins or a nail. After such fixation, the halves will not move, maintaining an even spherical figure.
- The most durable sinker molds are made from aluminum or steel. But you won’t be able to make it well on your own. The help of experienced millers and mechanics will be required. Let's look at the technology for making a steel mold for your favorite Cheburashka.
- First of all you will need 2 metal bars 20-25 mm thick. The width and length depend on the size of the future load and the number of simultaneously cast products. The joining surfaces must be made even and smooth.
- Hemispheres can be made using special spherical burrs. After this, it is important to accurately align both halves, for which you can use ball bearings.
- Next on drilling machine holes are made for the pins, bleeders and filler necks. Inside one of the halves it is necessary to make recesses for the wire ears.
Sinker casting process
When a mold for casting sinkers finally appeared, questions related to pouring lead appeared. The ease of making a weight depends to some extent on the quality of the mold. But if you know some of the nuances of working with lead, then everything will work out with both a homemade and a Chinese form, as well as with a product from the Spinmag company.
Before you begin heating lead, there are a few preparatory steps you need to take. If there are wire elements, it is necessary to cut the required section, bend it and carefully place it in the mold. The internal surfaces of the mold into which the molten lead will fall must be lubricated. Then it will be easier to remove the cooled sinker.
Tested in practice! The best lubricant is lard. It is enough to rub a piece of sandpaper over all the depressions to make it easier for the finished product to come out of the mold.
All that remains is to assemble the structure and secure it with special clamps, bolts or pins.
- Lead can be smelted at any time tin can. Using pliers, you can make a narrowed part (beak) to obtain a thin stream of melt. To make it convenient to put a kind of ladle on the fire and remove it from it, it is better to make a bend in the side at the top of the jar.
- Many anglers use battery lead. Melting it at home is dangerous and harmful. Therefore, it is first necessary to make the first melt on the street, pouring a clean fraction, for example, into a spoon. And you can work with pure lead in the kitchen by first turning on the hood. You can also immediately use weights removed from fishing nets.
- If a fisherman has few forms, but wants to make a lot of weights with different weights, then you can experiment a little by adding tin to the lead. These two metals melt well and mix with each other. And the resulting sinkers will be lighter than those made from pure lead.
- When the metal melts in the ladle, you need to wait a little longer for the temperature of the melt to increase. Then the metal will not harden during the casting process.
- It is important to pour hot lead evenly, without stopping. Otherwise, there may be formations inside air gaps and unevenness.
Attention! You can disassemble the mold only after it has completely cooled. This primarily applies to metal structures.
- Lead is soft material. Therefore, flash and burrs can be cut off with a regular knife. Excess metal, which inevitably forms in the filler holes, is removed with wire cutters. A fine file will give the surface a smooth appearance.
Many anglers note that brand new sinkers work worse than tarnished similar models. Therefore, home-made products can first be treated in vinegar (24 hours). Then lower the sinkers into a saturated solution of potassium permanganate for a day.
Today, fishermen can purchase ready-made forms in specialized stores or make them with their own hands. Using these devices correctly, you can get a rich arsenal fishing sinkers and heads.
The sinker is one of the important components of your equipment; almost no equipment can do without it. And on top of all this, sinkers often break off and get lost, which means it can be classified as a consumable that does not last very long.
If you are a DIYer, then this article is definitely for you. Because there are a couple of advantages to casting sinkers yourself
Firstly, it is versatility; you can always make the necessary sinker of any shape and weight.
Secondly, this is a small savings. Lead is very available material and you can get it anywhere, for example, I take it from the nearest car service center, from tire fitters. You just need to buy plaster, which costs around 80 rubles. for 5 kg.
Step-by-step instructions for making a casting mold
Making sinkers is not a long or complicated process, but you probably know that every business has its own tricks and nuances. Go!
First we need to prepare everything we need:
- Container;
- Construction plaster or alabaster;
- A sample of a sinker or a sample of any other material;
- Lubricant (soap solution, etc.);
- Lead (in my case these are weights for balancing wheels);
We begin our process by preparing the sinker and container for filling with gypsum. First, we take the sinker and make 2 holes on the same line along the length of the sinker and insert 2 metal rods there. We need them to secure the sinker inside the container. The sinker must be fixed parallel to the bottom of the container, or level, so that the plaster hardens evenly, without large angles or differences.
The sinker is fixed, now we mix the plaster. I experimented a lot, did 1 to 1, mixed with PVA glue, etc. By the way, the photographs are different and all are almost unsuccessful molds. So, in the end we got an ideal shape that does not crumble even without the use of PVA glue. I just mixed the plaster well in a 2:1 ratio with water, there is no need for unnecessary movements and the plaster is liquid enough to cast even small figures with complex shapes.
It is also advisable to reinforce the form with construction sickle so that it lasts longer.
After the mold has set and dried a little (about 30 minutes), you can make locks to connect the two halves. I did it with an ordinary knife. They can also do it with the help of drills and other objects, tools, nails, mice, in short, whatever comes to hand. Why better knife? Because the locks will be in the shape of a cone, which in my opinion is more convenient due to the fact that you can easily dismantle the 2nd half immediately after it has set, which cannot be done if the lock is in the shape of a cylinder (after the drill).
Are the castles ready? Now let's lubricate the mold and locks with soapy water twice as much. They smeared it once, then again after a couple of minutes. Lubricate the locks thoroughly.
Personally, I did it using homemade lubricant from vegetable oil and a candle. It turned out much more effective. To make it, I microwaved the oil and crushed candle in a plastic container and waited until it completely melted. Next, I mixed it well and spread it in one layer on the mold.
Now wait until the lubricant separator hardens and fill the other half with the same solution. I added a green color to make them visually different.
Wait 30 minutes in the same way and carefully bend the sides of the container and remove the molds. The molds will be quite fragile, if you want you can wait longer for them to dry.
Next, we make a couple of small channels for air removal and the main channel for pouring lead. Also, if you want to make a sliding sinker, make a through channel for a nail, for example. And if you need to fill with a swivel, just make a small hole at the junction.
The main task after you take them out and make all the necessary channels will be drying them. Give her some time Special attention, since pouring lead into a poorly dried mold is very dangerous, it may simply spit the lead back out. And God forbid it gets into your hands, or worse, into your eyes. And be sure to follow TB rules.
You can dry the molds at home in the oven in several stages. Stage 1 drying at a temperature of 15-25 degrees for about 20 minutes. Stage 2 drying at a temperature of about 40 degrees for 10 minutes. AND The final stage- This is drying at temperatures up to 70 degrees for about 10 minutes. Do not dry at very high temperatures, the gypsum may lose its structure and become crumbly like sand. If you feel that the form is still damp, set it to dry for 15 minutes at a temperature of 50-60 degrees.
Step-by-step instructions for casting a sinker
The form is ready. All that remains is to prepare the lead and pour it. I took wheel balancing weights and cut them into small pieces so that it would melt faster. Of course, you don’t have to do this, since there have never been any problems even with fairly large weights.
You can melt lead at gas stove in a regular tin can, or using gas burner. We pour molten lead into the main channel. Be sure to wear gloves and use pliers!
On sale you can find a variety of sinkers for float rods, donks, feeders, spinning rods and other types of gear. However, some fishermen are not satisfied with the shape and weight of what is available on the shelves, while others are outraged by the prices. If a fisherman lives in big city, then there can be no problems with the assortment of sinkers. Only residents of small settlements may experience difficulties in selecting these elements for some narrow tasks. But the prices are steep. Not everyone understands why pay several dollars for a banal piece of lead. After all, this metal is cheap and widely available. It can be processed and does not require any special industrial conditions. Nevertheless, manufacturers and sellers make a fair amount of markup on finished goods. So homemade sinkers are quite common. Let's talk about the features of making fishing sinkers with your own hands.
What to make sinkers from
Sinkers are generally made of lead. It is a low-melting metal, which makes working with it accessible to everyone. The raw materials themselves can be taken from different sources:
- find seals and cable insulation in old garages;
- buy scrap at the acceptance of non-ferrous metals;
- melt down the plates of old car batteries.
Lead melts at a temperature of 327 degrees. So it can be melted on a regular kitchen stove, from a gas burner or on a fire.
This metal is soft, easy to machine: it can be drilled, cut even with a knife, or scratched with a fingernail. The initial shape is usually made by casting. Holes for attaching to gear can also be made at the casting stage, or can be drilled afterwards.
Where to cast sinkers
Lead can also be smelted at home using gas. But I wouldn't recommend doing this. Still, lead vapor is harmful. The feasibility should generally be assessed. Should I bother with a couple of sinkers? If you need to cast a couple of spoons for donka, you can do it on gas. Fortunately, there is no need to invent a form for pouring. If there is a lot of lead and plans to cast products from it, then you should work outside. They choose a fine day and light a small fire or barbecue somewhere in nature or near the garage. In the air, harmful vapors will quickly evaporate. To be on the safe side, you can wear a respirator bandage. In some old ladle with a handle, lead is melted and poured into prepared molds.
Casting molds
There are many methods and materials for making molds for casting weights. The simplest option- This is casting in wet sand. The geometry of the voids itself is formed with cardboard, for example, rolled into cones or cylinders. If wire fittings or loops are meant, then they are inserted in advance, before pouring the metal.
You can make shapes from wood by cutting out and drilling out voids. Open forms are possible here, when lead is simply poured into a hole or hollow. A more advanced option is double-leaf forms, when the load profile is assembled from two halves, two recesses in parts of the form. To ensure that the halves of the structure fit correctly, guides are made from nails and marked holes. The parts are connected and fixed with wire. Lead is poured into the casting. When the metal cools, the mold is disassembled. We get a sinker. All that remains is to cut off the excess metal and straighten the edges if necessary.
You can make molds for casting sinkers from plaster. Gypsum powder is mixed with water as indicated in the instructions on the package. Filled with it carton boxes, which will serve as halves of the mold. To form a void of the desired configuration, use a ready-made sample of the product. If there is no ready-made sample, then the prototype is cut out of wood or made of papier-mâché. This way you can create a unique and pretty complex shape.
If you need to make a sliding sinker with through hole, then a wire or nail is inserted into the mold. It is desirable that the surface of the axle be smooth. Additionally, it is lubricated with technical petroleum jelly or grease. Then the guide can be easily removed using pliers.
To produce sinkers on an industrial scale, metal double-leaf molds are made from steel or aluminum. It is difficult to make such a form. Need access to advanced milling machine CNC and skills to work with it. For many types of sinkers, similar forms can be purchased online. There are craftsmen who have gone beyond independent casting. They started producing metal molds and selling them. Look for such people on fishing forums.
Safety precautions
When working with lead, of course, you need to work carefully. Use strong oven mitts to avoid getting burned. Of course, do not put your hands in the area where molten metal will pour. If necessary, keep the shape with special blacksmith gloves. But it is better to use pliers with long handles.
The castings must be allowed to cool thoroughly. Lead stays hot for a long time. If forced cooling with water is not used, then it is better to wait 15 - 20 minutes before removing the weights from the mold.
Sinkers for float fishing rod
Sets of store-bought sinkers are sold to rig float rods. As a rule, they are made of a soft lead alloy with some additives. This makes it easy to clamp such notched pellets onto the fishing line, even without the help of tools, just with your fingers. They are usually clamped with pliers.
Many anglers make their own fishing rod weights. They take hunting buckshot. They punch holes in it with a needle and get excellent sliding weights. It is difficult to cut buckshot. Due to additives, it does not always respond well. Sometimes it crumbles. So if they want to make clamping weights, they cast drops of lead. Then they are cut to the middle with a knife.
You can cast a lead stick in some recess. Chop it into pieces different lengths and use as weights.
Often a thin plate is cast. It is riveted a little with a hammer, bringing it to required thickness. Strips are cut out of it with scissors. Such pieces are bent and clamped on a fishing line. It is very comfortable. You can select the weight of the weight to within a fraction of a gram and adjust the float perfectly.
Weight spoon
The simplest sinker option for a regular donkey or is a spoon. Prepare some kind of pot or box with wet sand. A regular tablespoon is sunk into it. They try to maintain a level so that the top edge is close to the horizontal plane. Molten lead is poured into a spoon. You can adjust the weight of the future sinker. They pour either with a slight heap, which is achieved by the surface tension of the molten metal, or they do not add enough.
When the metal hardens, the spoon is taken out and the lead blank is dumped into a container of water to cool faster. A hole is drilled in the nose of the spoon for attaching a fishing line or rope insert.
You can pour it in a teaspoon or dessert spoon, getting smaller weights. The good shape of the spoon is that, due to its large surface, it is well kept at the bottom and is not carried away by the current. The downside is the weight limit. You cannot fill in more than will fit in the given cutlery. Grading the weight is also difficult. Standard spoons impose a limit on this with their dimensions.
Homemade sinkers for donks
The choice of geometry for homemade sinkers for bottom fishing rods is far from limited to spoons. In use are pyramids, cones, discs that are poured, for example, in sand or primitive wooden forms with samples. Precision of execution is not so important here, so people rarely bother with plaster molds. They make sense if there is a request for some complex shaped weights. For example, with pimples that increase grip on the bottom.
The attachment to the fishing line is done either through a wire loop, which is poured at the manufacturing stage, or a hole is then drilled in the finished weight.
The simplest sliding sinker for donkey can be made from a matchbox. A nail is inserted in the middle of the end, piercing the box right through. The box is sunk in wet sand. Lead is poured. When it hardens and cools, pull out the nail with pliers.
You can make the box yourself from cardboard, providing the volume and weight that is required. To do this, a primitive development is cut out. Something similar is shown to children in kindergarten or junior school to develop their spatial thinking.
It is clear that rectangular shape not ideal. A more advanced option in terms of aerodynamics is the rhombus. Such a cavity can also be easily made from a cardboard cutout.
Even more complex shapes, such as pears, bullets, and rockets, can only be cast in a double-leaf mold. Plaster is ideal.
Jig head casting
Many spinning players are upset high prices on jig head sinkers for rigging silicone baits. These items are consumables. An angler who often goes out and doesn’t avoid promising snags can break off several hundred baits over the course of a season. This is a serious blow to your pocket. So it is not surprising that there is a search for savings methods. Some people buy jigs in large wholesale. This already provides significant benefits. But some go further. Special hooks for jig heads, with a ring bent at an angle of 90 degrees, are purchased in bulk. Purchase or make molds and pour the weight-heads yourself.
If you go fishing infrequently and jig is not your main focus, then there may be no point in getting involved. But if you are actively engaged in this style of fishing, casting weights yourself is the right decision.
Collapsible "Cheburashkas"
The picture is approximately the same in the category of “Cheburashka” sinkers. This is another, no less popular, option for mounting soft baits. The weight looks like a lead ball. It has a flat slot. A wire lock is inserted there. Two loops are formed. A hook is inserted into the back one, and a fishing line is tied into the front one.
For the manufacture of such weights there are special metal molds, which can also be purchased online, on forums.
The conclusions are simple. If you are just starting your journey in fishing. If store forms are satisfactory, and losing a few sinkers doesn’t bother you financially, don’t waste your time. If you are faced with high consumption lures and sinkers, then you should definitely consider casting them yourself.
In today's post I would like to talk about such an interesting and popular topic among anglers as making your own fishing weights at home. Judge for yourself, hooks, spoons, wobblers, fishing lines and others essential elements gear or impossible make at home, or these are very complex, labor-intensive operations (which is easier to buy). And here make your own sinkers nothing easier and more profitable!
So the main one material for homemade sinkers - lead. Sometimes used lead alloys with the addition of tin, Melchtor, etc. But in general, lead is the basis. Lead combines several important qualities that provide it with leadership and complete hegemony in the fishing sinker segment:
High specific gravity. Those. with the same volume, a sinker made of lead is much heavier than one made of steel, tin, aluminum and other popular inexpensive metals.;
The melting point is quite low - 327.4 ° C. Which is fully ensured by the fire of a fire, gas burner or stove;
Normal workability. And although lead is mainly poured, it also produces some machining also not difficult (flatten, cut, saw, polish). Lead is ductile and soft.
Where can I get lead? Melt down old sinkers; use old battery plates, the protective sheath of some wires, look for other options - there are a lot of them.
To cast sinkers yourself- need a form. I've never really bothered with mass production of sinkers. So, I made molds from scrap materials.
- Homemade blind bottom sinkers or weights for rubber donkeys are ideally cast in a regular tablespoon. Then, drill a hole in the top of the load and mount it on the tackle.
- Homemade sliding sinkers for donks and weights. Personally, I cast in cardboard molds (matchboxes) and in a wooden hollowed-out mold. Of course, it is better to make neater weights in plaster molds, but... I use round chisels to hollow out a recess in the shape of the weight. I cut grooves for the axle. I place a nail or a piece of wire into the recess. I melt the lead in a spoon or other container (an aluminum ladle with a handle, a tin can, etc.) and pour it into the “heaped” recess. When the load freezes, I remove the nail using pliers. It turns out great homemade sinker for donkey.
Possible at a quick fix make an eared eccentric weight for spinning fishing. Just twist the ears out of wire and clamp an ordinary seal of the required weight onto them.
If you are going to cast sinkers thoroughly and in large quantities, you can get steel or plaster molds for casting sinkers. So, you can make plaster molds yourself. For the sample, use commercially produced sinkers.
For home-made eared sinkers they use homemade factory molds made of steel.
A little on the safety of making lead weights yourself. Lead fumes are harmful. So, if you are casting a serious batch of sinkers, do it outdoors or indoors with good ventilation. But if you cast literally a few weights and not often, then you can do this in a regular gas oven at home. Just be careful not to spill hot lead on yourself and the decoration of the apartment, furniture... Go for it!
Today I will tell you how to make fishing weights with your own hands from lead, and not waste money. Any jig spinner should ideally have a gentleman's set in order to feel confident on any body of water, even in the most unexpected fishing conditions. Such a set of weights requires the presence of a large number of weights, ranging from 1.5 g to 35 g, and sometimes more, with an interval of 2-4 g. For example, when we go on a trip, we always take with us a set of ordinary eared weights, respectively, 1. 5 g, 4 g, 6 g, 9 g, 12 g, 15 g, 18 g, 20 g, 22 g, 25 g, 28 g, 32 g, 35 g.
Of course, such a large amount of shot and buckshot is quite burdensome to carry around all day, especially since the load of each weight must be backed up in case of snags. But this, in a sense, store assortment allows us to select bait for absolutely any fishing conditions.
Unfortunately, the fishing industry lags far behind the potential needs of the market, and you will not find such a selection, especially eared fish, anywhere. The way out of this current situation is quite simple - you need to cast and make weights for fishing yourself. This kills two birds with one stone - on the one hand, you save time by not running around the shops looking for the weight you need, and on the other hand, you stop being afraid of losing them on cliffs.
How to make a weight from lead
How to make weights for fishing with your own hands from lead, because according to statistics, out of 100 fishermen, only 1 is a jack of all trades or a high-class mechanic who is able to make molds for casting on his own. We should not forget that in our country the hardest currency, oddly enough, is liquid, and if you are able to explain to a mechanic, who is easy to meet at the entrance of any factory, what you need and what he needs, then this problem is completely solved in just a few days. The only thing is that in order to obtain forms for each weight, it is necessary to inform the mechanic of the exact diameters of the future ears. For convenience, we provide below a table of correspondence between diameters and weights in the shape of a ball. This table is formulated specifically for lead, taking into account its density, so if you want to cast, for example, a Wood or Rose alloy with a lower density, obtained in the same form it will be similar in diameter, but lighter in weight. And if you put tungsten fragments of electrodes into the mold before casting, you can get a very heavy and compact one.
How to make molds for casting a weight
Molds for casting sinkers with your own hands are also quite easy to make from plaster or silicone sealant. Very original and at the same time simple solution is the manufacture of a mold for casting from silicone sealant such as “Germesil” or any similar one. The criterion for choosing a sealant is the ability to withstand high temperatures without changing the properties of the material. Most household sealants have an upper temperature limit of about 150-180°C. This forces us to use not lead (melting point about 350°C) for casting sinkers, but special alloys with a lower melting point. First of all, we are talking about Wood, Rose and typographic alloys (melting point from 60 to 110 ° C). When using these particular alloys Silicone molds will serve for a very long time without deteriorating the quality of the castings.
In the case of lead, a mold made from household sealant can withstand up to 10 castings, and the quality of each subsequent load becomes worse due to the gradual burnout of the sealant over the entire area of contact of the molten lead with the mold. Currently silicone sealant easy to buy at auto stores or stores selling building materials. This silicone mold, despite its amazing elasticity and seeming unreliability, can easily withstand high temperatures and a large number of castings. In addition, silicone sealant gives the angler an amazing opportunity to almost perfectly replicate any, even the most complex, shape of a sinker or spinning bait.
Form for weights
The shape of the weights itself is very simple to make. A small box is taken, which is then filled to the brim with silicone sealant. During filling, you need to ensure that there are no bubbles in the sealant. Next, the weight or bait that you are going to repeat is lubricated with a solution of wax or paraffin in gasoline, dried and lowered on a wire into a box with sealant so that it is completely immersed in the sealant, but does not touch the walls of the box. In such a suspended state, a sample of the future fishing weight or bait should be kept until the sealant has completely hardened. The polymerization process of silicone sealant throughout the entire volume of the mold is not uniform, and complete hardening of the silicone mold can take five to six days. Therefore, you should not remove the sample from the mold until complete polymerization occurs.
This moment can be easily controlled by periodically carefully feeling the shape. When fully cured, the sealant should resemble the consistency of a well-inflated soccer ball. Next, a small sprue hole is carefully cut from the top, through which the sample is removed due to the elasticity of the sealant. After this, the silicone mold is separated from the box and becomes completely ready for multiple castings. Pouring lead into this form and removing a finished hand-made weight or bait occurs through the same sprue hole. At the moment of removing the finished sample, the mold stretches each time and, as it were, “spits out” it, after which it instantly takes on its original form and is again ready for more and more castings. The advantages of a mold made from silicone sealant are obvious: it is very cheap, extremely simple and at the same time quite reliable. In addition to the ball-shaped ear molds, we highly recommend that you make several lentil-type molds for casting. Outwardly, it somewhat resembles a plum pit flattened on the sides. The lentil is lighter than the spherical eared fish, but due to its shape it slips much more easily through the closed mouth of the fish, significantly improving hooking. The most important use of lentils is when catching pike perch with its bulldog grip. Like these ones simple tips how to make weights for fishing with your own hands and without financial costs for you.
Like different types of baits, sinkers of a certain weight and shape can also be made at home. Of course, not all fishermen are mechanics or milling operators, and not everyone has the opportunity to make metal molds, therefore, gypsum or sealant can be used as a mold material. Or contact a familiar craftsman at a local factory for a metal mold.
If the transaction is successful, within a day or two you will receive the necessary molds for casting. But first you need to take care of determining the exact diameter of the future spherical weights and inform the master about it in order to ultimately get weights of the required weight.
If you are not good at mathematical calculations, you can find tables online showing the correspondence between the diameter and weight of a lead ball. It is also worth remembering that balls made of lead and, for example, Wood's alloy same sizes will have different weights, since lead has a higher density.
How to make a mold for casting sinkers from plaster (video)
Form for sealant weights
Form for making weights or spinning lures without much difficulty you can do it yourself using plaster or silicone sealant, as well as a finished sample. For example, it is easy and also very unusual to make a mold from a sealant like “Hermesil” and the like. The main factor when choosing a sealant is its ability not to change physical properties when exposed to high temperatures.
The upper permissible temperature limits for most common sealants range from 150 to 180°C.
In this regard, the use of pure lead for casting sinkers is not very appropriate, since its melting point reaches 350°C. But you can take some alloys, namely printing alloy, Wood or Rose alloys. Their melting point ranges from 60-110°, and therefore, when using such alloys, the silicone mold will serve you for a long time and the sinker castings will be of high quality.
If lead is used as the material for the sinkers, the manufactured casting mold will withstand approximately 8-10 castings. It is also worth noting that each time the lead sinker will move further and further away from the original ideal due to the gradual burnout of the mold and sealant.
Silicone sealant can be purchased in specialized stores with building materials or in auto stores.
Although such a mold for casting at first glance may seem completely unreliable, in fact it can withstand quite high temperature, and thanks to its properties it will allow you to make a sinker or bait of almost any shape.
Making a mold for casting weights
Making a mold is not that difficult. First, we take a small box and completely fill it with high-quality sealant. When filling, be careful not to form bubbles.
Next is the original the weight needs to be lubricated with a wax solution or paraffin in gasoline. After drying, the sinker on a thin wire is completely lowered into the sealant, but it should not touch the walls of the box itself.
The weight sample should remain in this position until the sealant hardens. Due to the characteristics of the sealant, this process can last a couple of days or drag on for 5-6 days. Do not remove the weight until complete polymerization.
After the substance has hardened, we cut a small hole through which we extract a sample of the sinker. The elastic form is ready, which means you can try to make your own weight from lead or its alloy.
The metal is poured through the same hole that you made earlier to remove the original sample weight. Thanks to its unique physical properties The silicone mold makes it easy to remove homemade sinkers or baits, after which it returns to its original form and is ready for use again.
How to paint lead
Aluminum mold for casting weights (video)
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The sinker is one of the important components of your equipment; almost no equipment can do without it. And on top of all this, sinkers often break off and get lost, which means it can be classified as a consumable that does not last very long.
If you are a DIYer, then this article is definitely for you. Because there are a couple of advantages to casting sinkers yourself
Firstly, it is versatility; you can always make the necessary sinker of any shape and weight.
Secondly, this is a small savings. Lead is a very affordable material and can be obtained anywhere, for example, I take it from the nearest car service center or from tire fitters. You just need to buy plaster, which costs around 80 rubles. for 5 kg.
Step-by-step instructions for making a casting mold
Making sinkers is not a long or complicated process, but you probably know that every business has its own tricks and nuances. Go!
First we need to prepare everything we need:
- Container;
- Construction plaster or alabaster;
- A sample of a sinker or a sample of any other material;
- Lubricant (soap solution, etc.);
- Lead (in my case these are weights for balancing wheels);
We begin our process by preparing the sinker and container for filling with gypsum. First, we take the sinker and make 2 holes on the same line along the length of the sinker and insert 2 metal rods there. We need them to secure the sinker inside the container. The sinker must be fixed parallel to the bottom of the container, or level, so that the plaster hardens evenly, without large angles or differences.
The sinker is fixed, now we mix the plaster. I experimented a lot, did 1 to 1, mixed with PVA glue, etc. By the way, the photographs are different and all are almost unsuccessful molds. So, in the end we got an ideal shape that does not crumble even without the use of PVA glue. I just mixed the plaster well in a 2:1 ratio with water, there is no need for unnecessary movements and the plaster is liquid enough to cast even small figures with complex shapes.
It is also advisable to reinforce the form with construction sickle so that it lasts longer.
After the mold has set and dried a little (about 30 minutes), you can make locks to connect the two halves. I did it with an ordinary knife. They can also do it with the help of drills and other objects, tools, nails, mice, in short, whatever comes to hand. Why is a knife better? Because the locks will be in the shape of a cone, which in my opinion is more convenient due to the fact that you can easily dismantle the 2nd half immediately after it has set, which cannot be done if the lock is in the shape of a cylinder (after the drill).
Are the castles ready? Now let's lubricate the mold and locks with soapy water twice as much. They smeared it once, then again after a couple of minutes. Lubricate the locks thoroughly.
Personally, I did it using homemade lubricant from vegetable oil and a candle. It turned out much more effective. To make it, I microwaved the oil and crushed candle in a plastic container and waited until it completely melted. Next, I mixed it well and spread it in one layer on the mold.
Now wait until the lubricant separator hardens and fill the other half with the same solution. I added a green color to make them visually different.
Wait 30 minutes in the same way and carefully bend the sides of the container and remove the molds. The molds will be quite fragile, if you want you can wait longer for them to dry.
Next, we make a couple of small channels for air removal and the main channel for pouring lead. Also, if you want to make a sliding sinker, make a through channel for a nail, for example. And if you need to fill with a swivel, just make a small hole at the junction.
The main task after you take them out and make all the necessary channels will be drying them. Pay special attention to it, since pouring lead into a poorly dried mold is very dangerous; it may simply spit the lead back out. And God forbid it gets into your hands, or worse, into your eyes. And be sure to follow TB rules.
You can dry the molds at home in the oven in several stages. Stage 1 drying at a temperature of 15-25 degrees for about 20 minutes. Stage 2 drying at a temperature of about 40 degrees for 10 minutes. And the final stage is drying at temperatures up to 70 degrees for about 10 minutes. Do not dry at very high temperatures, the gypsum may lose its structure and become crumbly like sand. If you feel that the form is still damp, set it to dry for 15 minutes at a temperature of 50-60 degrees.
Step-by-step instructions for casting a sinker
The form is ready. All that remains is to prepare the lead and pour it. I took wheel balancing weights and cut them into small pieces so that it would melt faster. Of course, you don’t have to do this, since there have never been any problems even with fairly large weights.
You can melt lead on a gas stove in a regular tin can, or using a gas burner. We pour molten lead into the main channel. Be sure to wear gloves and use pliers!
The sinker model can be easily cut out of a piece of bark with a knife or sculpted from plasticine. For a one-time casting, the mold can be pressed in sand or dry soil, but then the surface of the load will be rough. This is the most quick way casting sinkers, which can be used directly while fishing.
Plaster mold for casting sinkers. If you want to make a mold for repeated casting, then you should use a plaster mold (Fig. 1.).
Rice. 1. Gypsum mold with a groove for pouring lead and vents for air removal
In accordance with the size of the future cargo, make two identical boxes from thick cardboard. In the first, spread the plaster and make an impression with a model of the sinker. The impression must be made exactly on half of the model. Don’t forget about the lead filling system - to do this, use a nail (if the mold is small) to push through a small groove-groove that widens towards the end. If you are going to melt a large load or the quality of the sinker is very important to you, then you should take care of additional grooves for removing air from the mold. When the plaster hardens, spread the plaster in the second box. The frozen mold must be covered with soapy water so that the second one does not stick to it, then put a sinker in it and connect the molds, pressing them tightly together. When the plaster has hardened, open the molds and remove the model from them. You now have a sinker mold that will stand up to repeated use.
In order to cast a sinker in your mold, just press the molds tightly against each other, holding them with a clamp. Then melt the lead and carefully pour it into the mold. It is important that the lead cools on its own, never try to cool it with water (this can ruin the sinker), and do not open the mold ahead of time.
Casting a sinker in a wooden mold. I currently use this method. I don’t know about others, but it’s easier for me to melt in a wooden form (Fig. 2.). It’s just that I have access to this material, and there’s less fuss with wooden forms than with plaster ones, although everyone chooses for themselves.
Rice. 2. Wooden molds for casting weights
To begin with, you need two planks, the size and thickness of which depend, naturally, on the future sinker. I prefer Red tree– this material is hard and can withstand repeated castings. If you can’t find mahogany, you can use any hardwood - oak, ash, etc. When the planks are selected, draw on them the contours of the sinker and the lead pouring system. It is important that when combining the parts the pattern matches, otherwise the sinker will come out uneven. Next, use a chisel or chisel to cut out the indentations. Make them a little deeper than needed: at first glance they will seem deep, but when casting the weight will come out flat. So that the sinker can be attached to the fishing line, insert a wire eyelet into the mold, as shown in Fig. 3.
Rice. 3. Options for the location of the wire eye: a – external; b – internal, in a special groove
The external location of the ear does not require any additional effort, but if there is too much lead, the lead will fill the ear, and picking it out from there is not easy. The second option requires an additional groove, but then there will be no fuss. The choice is yours! When you decide on the location of the eyelet, insert it into the mold and align the parts, holding them with a clamp (Fig. 4.).
Rice. 4. Mold ready for casting
It is very important that there are no gaps between the forms - the lead may spread and the load will not come out. Work in a well-ventilated area as the mold will smoke slightly. To ensure that the load comes out neatly, melt only the amount of lead that is necessary to fill the volume of the mold without the volume of the groove for supplying lead (this is important when using the external method of attaching the eye). Do not try to separate the molds before the lead has completely hardened - you may break the load.
When the lead has cooled, carefully open the molds and remove the weight by the eye. All seams and inaccuracies can be sanded down with sandpaper. If the molds have moved and the weight does not come out, then it can be melted again, not forgetting to add a little lead, since during the melting process it burns out and decreases in volume. If you want to make a sliding weight, then instead of an eye, insert a nail into the mold. When the lead hardens, use pliers to remove the nail and insert an empty rod from ballpoint pen. The rod is needed to prevent the lead from chafing the fishing line.
Smelting sinkers in a potato tuber. I have been fishing for a long time and have been making sinkers. During this time I tried a lot different ways. I was constantly looking for a casting mold that would always be at hand, that was easy to make, and in which the most intricate shapes of sinkers could be cast. And I guess I found it – it’s a potato tuber. Yes, yes, ordinary potatoes. A fisherman I knew first told me about this method.
The form is performed in the following sequence. To obtain a molding cavity in the tuber the right size and shape, it is necessary to make a metal model of the future load (most often conical). The model can be turned on lathe or using an electric drill with a file, holding the workpiece in the chuck. The tuber must be large so that the wall thickness is sufficient. Then the casting cavity is pre-selected with a knife. Next, having heated the model to a temperature at which it, in contact with the tuber, will leave a “crust” on it, we will process the cavity of the future form. The point of this treatment is to deprive the surface layer of the tuber of moisture, where the molten lead will come into contact with the potato, and if there is more moisture than necessary, you can get burned, since the metal will turn steam into water contained in the tuber, and steam, escaping outward, can push molten metal out of the cavity. This will not threaten you if the walls are dried and covered with a layer of rosin 1-2mm thick. In any case, the first pouring of the mold must be done extremely carefully; the metal must be fed in small portions. Each casting will dry out the walls of the mold more and more, and soon the mold will reach operating mode.
Rice. 5. Potato tuber with fastening eye
In strong currents, you can make a load with lugs (Fig. 6.). To do this, you need to insert an elastic wire under the finished mold. different angles. But in this case, the form can only be used once, since the tuber will have to be cut to remove the load. After the tuber is cut and the load is removed, cut off the excessively long wire or bend its ends in different directions. The cargo is ready. It is best used on a sandy bottom. So, with a smaller mass of cargo in a strong current, it will reliably fix the equipment.
Rice. 6. Sinker with lugs
This casting method is quite interesting, but I believe that using a potato tuber for purposes other than food is quite unethical, so I use this method very rarely.
See also:
Instructions – guide to self-production loaded in its own casting molds.