We have a southern slope, on which a strong southwest wind blows. There is no wind protection, because of this all the clouds above us are torn to pieces or blow past very quickly, so there is much less rain than in the village 15 km from us. In fact, we got this land because our predecessors, the summer residents, had nothing to grow. They say that when this land was cut up (15 years ago), it was almost entirely clover. When we took it four years ago, pieces of silver and tarragon wormwood, wheatgrass and feather grass alternated with rare inclusions of other herbs. The soil – loam – was dry, regardless of watering. At the depth of the bayonet, a layer began (the sole of the plough), which sometimes had to be chiselled with a crowbar. Groundwater(floater) at a depth of 16 meters.
Over the years, we have learned the following about the fertility of the earth:
1. The impact of wild plants is very strong: silver wormwood (bitter), wheatgrass, bromegrass, and feather grass prevent almost anything from growing next to them, especially the first two. They must be mowed and cannot be added even to compost in large quantities, only in the form of ash, otherwise the compost will suppress the plants being fed. We mow them, harvest them, cultivate the soil, plant rye, oats and vetch, mustard (best), or othersgreen manure. Immediately mulch what is sown with lawn cuttings (best) or lightly with straw (just to provide shade). Then frequent watering and mowing. For the winter, it’s good to cover it with straw, or make a windbreak, or don’t mow it in the fall, otherwise the snow will blow away. Something cultural after wormwood and polenka can be planted no earlier than in a year; it is recommended to sow green manure for three years. Feather grass strongly compacts the soil (or it grows only on very compacted soil), you have to jump on the shovel, the cultivator does not take, but the feather grass does not tolerate moisture. Mow it, then mulch it with a thick layer of straw (until spring the soil underneath softens), do not forget about snow retention. Next spring You can try to rake the straw and take it with a cultivator, and then sow green manure, rake the straw back and water it. We dragged dozens of large trailers of straw from the field to the site (just don’t leave it in piles, otherwise there will be mice).The results are excellent: trees and bushes, which previously could not decide whether to grow or dry out, grew by half a meter. On soil where even wormwood did not grow higher than 15 cm, grasses grew taller. Spring moisture remained at the end of June without watering. The soil softened, worms appeared (they couldn’t find any before). After two years, the thick layer of straw was gone - it had been eaten, it had rotted... The soil was unrecognizable.
2. About EM drugs: in short, without moisture and organic matter, and the appropriate temperature (the soil should not be overheated), EM will not work. And with moisture and organic matter, the soil will recover even without EM. You can only speed up this process, that’s all. There is still a difficulty: you need to get the starter right. It’s, you know, like a rich dough – you overbake it, and the result is not the same, and if you overdo it with anything in the sourdough, even more so. Although, in in capable hands“Shine” preparations, for example, give good, quick results.
3. About soil types, acidity I can only tell my stories, draw your own conclusions... I dug up in the fall under spring planting holes for apple trees (it is recommended to dig and fill them in advance). Well, I dug up some digging, but I only had enough energy to refuel for one. But he already filled it up like a lord: he poured out a whole wheelbarrow of excellent humus (usually I pour half of it), mixed what was in the hole with the earth(We do not use chemical fertilizers) . The next spring, I planted apple trees from the trench and took the most beautiful one into a pre-filled hole. As expected, everything was watered and mulched well (if you don’t mulch the watering hole, not only will the moisture evaporate quickly and the soil will overheat, what we call weeds will grow up, crush the apple tree, and it will need humus, Oh how good - tall and fat, swinging), they put pegs so that he could find them quickly, so as not to accidentally mow them down - grace! Soon all the apple trees took root, they put out leaves, but this one, my favorite, seemed to be uncomfortable. I watered it out of turn, began to look - and its leaves were curling up. Everyone has already started to grow, but my beauty is not feeling well! I sat down next to her and asked her a question about why she didn’t like life. I’ll tell you later about how trees can talk, but the apple tree didn’t tell me anything then, and maybe I’m hard of hearing. But the thought came to mind that there was too much humus, it was sour and burned the young roots, there was nowhere for the apple tree to get strength from, and that it was necessary to pour the ash infusion over it, or better yet, so as not to overdo it again, sprinkle the ash into the watering hole and pour it thoroughly. That's what I did - the leaves straightened out, my favorite began to grow! Everyone knows that ash under potatoes, or together with humus under an apple tree, or under legumes is good. But pouring ash under everything else makes my hand tremble. If you look at a loved one, will you understand what mood he is in? How is he doing, is he cheerful, cheerful and healthy, or not? And if you look at the plant carefully, you will understand Fine Or is his life bad? (True, some plants have to be planted a little on a starvation ration in order to get a harvest, and not just green mass). Now take and look at this soil and this plant on it - how do they fit together? For example, wormwood looks very good and organic on dry soil without turf. It doesn’t allow anything cultural to grow so that the soil can be restored at least a little.
4. Now about manure, humus and worms. Manure and humus are acidic and contain decomposition products, what not , their environment is quite aggressive, it is not for nothing that they mix humus with the soil no more than 1: 1. Most often, humus is rotted, burnt manure. The substances contained in them repel worms. The worm feeds the soil with its feces. Well, imagine this worm in the middle of other people's feces. He, the poor thing, has nowhere to go. Here in compost heap There are always plenty of worms. There, the worm food has not yet burned out, has not spoiled, no one has eaten it, and the place for the worm has not been soiled. In four years on the earth, my wife and I used up 12 units of humus. We thought that we had no other choice, the soil was depleted, we had to give an impetus, and we were in a hurry, and most importantly, we had no experience in restoring the land. Now I know that if you give a good layer of organic matter on top of the tired soil (ideally lawn cuttings, fallen leaves from the forest, chopped garden “waste” or at least straw, bran and grain waste are more nutritious, but more about them another time), and then water , then over the summer the soil will recover on its own, but you need to remember that mulch thinner than 10 cm in an uncompacted form is just for your complacency. But we need it right away! In order for something to grow on such “killed” soil in the first year, put a 10 cm layer of humus on the surface and loosen it with the soil. The worms appear only at the end of summer, the plants at first wither and get sick, but by the end of summer everything is fine. If the humus was without weed seeds, then it “buries” the weeds and requires less weeding. We often plant moisture-loving flowers this way, otherwise the water does not retain and the soil dries out quickly.
And the unsuccessful experiments with humus - we tried to bury it (do you know the technique of double digging with the introduction of organic matter into the trenches? So, it is no coincidence that the authors of such techniques later mineral fertilizers recommend...)
Effective Microorganisms contained in the soil, they, too, like worms, love food, moisture and coolness, and nitrogen and acid contained in humus and manure are waste products for them, if anyone else thinks that it is good for them to live - Let him go to the toilet again. Well, okay, the plants quickly absorbed our humus and manure fertilizer, produced a powerful green mass, and we received moral satisfaction and time to give organic matter during the summer, cover the ground in the fall (at least with cardboard, sawdust or straw - the ground should not beopen), and next year... where is the humus again!!! ...You say: “What about compost?” And compost, in my opinion, is for the very rich. A compost heap is, I don’t know, what a waste! All the organic matter that comes from somewhere in the summer is priceless! It is passed through a grinder and applied on top of the soil directly onto the beds and around the trees - this is the best food for worms and EM that are in the soil, and why under compost pit take up space?
5. Nowabout bran and all sorts of grain waste. We have a flour mill here in a neighboring village. I went there, they sell flour, bran (bran costs 60 rubles per bag, that is, the bran itself costs 50 rubles, and the bag will still come in handy) and there is grain waste, it’s just sent to a landfill. There, according to technology, they wash something, and what remains is wet grain, along with wet flour and all sorts of grain waste. I told my neighbor about this - he said: “I heard that from such wheat grain waste they make beds like dung beds, only higher, water them well, there are holes right in the grain waste, the soil goes there - everything you plant goes right in!” Well, I went, made an agreement, collected this waste, sprinkled it at the bottom of my beds - boxes thin layer, a mixture of humus and soil on top, planted eggplants, tomatoes andpeppers (okay, not the whole garden). I planted it, covered it with film, the neighbor said, this waste will still give warmth, which means nothing will freeze, I walk around and enjoy life. But my plants, all except eggplants, I see, are not happy. The peppers are not very happy at all; they have begun to shed their leaves. I stuck my hand in the ground - undermulchIt seems damp and pleasant, but when I drown my palm, my fingers burn. I go to my neighbor, and he says: “I forgot to warn you, the layer of soil there needs to be thicker, otherwise when the wheat waste burns underground, the temperature reaches 70 degrees.” In general, we were left with almost no peppers that year, the tomatoes somehow ran out of steam, but we enjoyed the eggplants. We then planted potatoes in the same way. Pits about forty centimeters deep, a bucket of grain waste, bran, poured in there, then a layer of earth about five centimeters, potatoes, a layer of earth, and on top a thick layer of straw. There was a lot of excitement! I must say that the previous year for potatoes was a failure for us. We planted it on humus, in a field where wheatgrass had previously grown, and planted the spaces between the rows with green manure and covered it with straw on top. The largest potato then reached my fist, but as for mine, it didn’t reach my wife’s fist, it was gnawed by mice, May beetle larvae, covered in wireworms... We then dug up six buckets of about fifty! And here again there is such a threat of a bummer! I just didn’t pray for those potatoes under the straw on the grain waste. By the way, there was no need to weed it; they hilled it up right away, although the straw was inconvenient. When the potato vines stretched upward above my mid-thigh, looking at this lush greenery, I began to think about whether there would also be tubers there. In the fall, when our neighbors’ potato tops wilted, ours were still green, so we dug late. We dug 35 buckets per hundred square meters. The potatoes were of decent size, without wireworms and, most importantly, very tasty. And I have already prepared the field for the future harvest. In the spring, I planted a vico-oat mixture on the cultivated plot, covered it with straw, and watered it. Then during the summer I mowed it several times, watered it, and covered it with a thick layer of straw in the fall. In the spring, I removed the straw, loosened it with a cultivator, cut furrows with a plow (with a walk-behind tractor - it’s still fun, but a shovel is still cooler), poured bran and grain waste into them, covered them with earth, spread them outpotato, covered it with soil, planted beans (for fertilizer and against the Colorado potato beetle) and put straw back on top. I planted it, as my grandmother taught me, when a leaf on a birch tree costs a penny. Oh, it became a penny early, I was afraid that the seedlings would freeze. And so it happened. Everything above the straw (the tops rose slightly above the straw, but not all of them) froze, but what was in the straw remained alive. I didn’t have to weed again, hilling up was a bit difficult, but I sharpened the hoe with a wedge. Yes... I planted it densely in the furrows - 25-30 centimeters apart, 70 cm - a meter between the rows, so it was easier to rake, only on both sides, I raked it high. We dug up 50 buckets from a hundred square meters. By the way, in another field the same year, I didn’t prepare the soil the day before; in the spring I brought humus and oat husks from the grain mill there (they make rolled oats and throw away the oat husks), I also made furrows there with grain waste, but there was no straw, I mulched it weakly , lawn cuttings. There the potatoes were weaker, although that was also okay. I planted corn in the potato fields on the side of the wind so that the Colorado potato beetle wouldn’t find it, and in winter there was snow retention (and the corn was frozen for the winter). Regarding potatoes, only under straw (there is such a method - put the potatoes on the ground, or in a hole, covered them with thick straw and forgot) we tried, the potatoes will give birth, but for my taste, they are too small and there is not much of it. Grain waste tastes like butter! And after such potatoes, you can plant anything, the earth will give birth. Yes! Why bran? Yes, because their manufacturers have not yet come up with anything better than bran for EM feed. “Shine” preparations are all bran based.
6. And here’s another story... My wife and I decided to effectively restore the soil in one of the plots. Well... it seems like everything I described above has already been tried and doesn’t seem interesting. But so that everything is just...!!! Well, we're lazy. We took that wheatgrass field where potatoes were planted at the edge in the first year, loosened it with a cultivator, and mixed the seeds lawn grass, sweet clover and sainfoin, and sown under the straw, and then watered. We did this already in August, in the winter we had to urgently break up the snow retention shields, all the snow was blown away. The next year, by autumn, our sainfoin and sweet clover were blooming, and they were higher than the knee - there was just as much snow. As a result, we have received an almost inexhaustible source of nutritionalmulch, natural shading and nitrogenous fertilization of the soil, bribes for bees and for all sorts of things, because sainfoin, if you mow it, blooms twice a year. To this we can add that sweet clover and sainfoin grow wild not far from us and the seeds are easy to collect. Instead, you can use those legumes that are available to you - lupins, clover, alfalfa (it is sold in buckets at the poultry market) and so on.
Valera, Blagodatnoe settlement, Novosibirsk region
Reports about feeding plants with bread caused heated discussions among gardeners and gardeners. Disputants are concerned about both the moral and practical sides of the issue.
On the one hand, it is believed that it is not ethical to throw away even dried bread. People gave their lives for a piece of bread. There can be no objections to this, and no one has canceled respect for the work of the farmer, as well as frugality. But life changes. And what should you do if, for example, the bread you bought the day before became moldy in the morning? Or not so radically: there are crusts left that no one wants to eat anymore. I can’t believe that there are families in which such a situation never happens! Throw it away - the hand does not rise. There are, of course, recipes using crackers. And if you don’t have time to do kitchen delights? What's wrong with feeding plants with bread? They feed animals with bread. What if there are no animals? How worse than a plant? They are also alive and they also want to “eat”! Organic matter is the favorite “dish” of plants. And bread is the same organic matter. Nikolai Kurdyumov in his books very clearly explains the law of fertility: “Return to the soil more organic matter than it gave, and then it will give you even more.” It depends on everyone, but personally, after this, all awkwardness when using bread supplements disappears.
When discussing the usefulness of bread as a nutritional supplement, for some reason the first thing that comes to mind is yeast, living organisms capable of producing carbon dioxide. Well, yes, yeast is an indispensable attribute of bread baking. Only dead yeast no longer produces anything, and that’s exactly what it is in bread. At a temperature of +75 even their spores die. But as food for saprophytic microbes, which make dead organic matter available for consumption by plants, bread is no worse than dry grass. With all its proteins, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins, micro- and macroelements. Over the winter you can accumulate a decent amount of it.
Having weighed all the pros and cons, Galina Donova (Nazarovo, Krasnoyarsk region) conducted a preliminary experiment in 2013. When planting seedlings of cucumbers, zucchini, tomatoes, cabbage, onions, strawberry stalks, cloves of garlic, potato tubers, she added soaked bread, which had accumulated over the course of time, to the holes. winter period, or used it for feeding during the growing season. Contrary to expectations, not all crops liked the bread additive - attacks were noted on cabbage, which was not observed with normal landing. The tomatoes began to grow, they became fat, and we had to use special techniques to get them to start bearing fruit. Onions on turnips planted with seedlings reduced the yield by half, spring garlic - by one and a half times, leeks seemed to not notice the feeding. Cucumbers and zucchini, as well as potatoes and strawberries, responded well to the new fertilizing. For example, in the experiment with bread, the yield of potatoes of the Agria variety was twice as high as in the control. Did this happen by chance, and only on this variety, or is this a pattern inherent in other varieties and conditions, it was necessary to check, and Galina repeated the experiment in 2014. There were several options. Let's look at them in order.
First experience. Reaction of varieties.
At landing three varieties (mid-early Gala and Zekura, mid-late Agria) in half of the nests a handful of soaked bread was placed in the hole along with the tuber. What are the results? First of all, we are interested in Agria. Will she repeat her reaction to bread feeding? Yes, I repeated it! And this time the addition of bread doubled the yield - 12 kg versus 5.4 kg (calculated for 10 nests). Gala gave an increase of 32%, and Zekura - 22%. In general, we can say that all tested varieties, to varying degrees, responded positively to feeding with bread. The authenticity of the increase was confirmed by mathematical analysis.
Second experience. The question arises - is it necessary to soak bread for feeding? Maybe it’s enough to bury a cracker in the ground, and then the rains will do their job. And the soil is rarely dry during planting. Galina tried this option too. When planting Agria, she left a third of the nests without bread additive, planted the other third with soaked bread, and put dry crusts in the remaining nests. Last summer cannot be called particularly dry; there was enough precipitation (especially in the second half of summer), and approximately equal increases could be expected. But in reality, the option with breadcrumbs showed an insignificant increase - only 10%, while soaked bread doubled the yield.
Third experience. Testing grain fertilizer on poor soils.
What if you plant potatoes instead of soil in bare sand and cover them with unrotted sawdust. Can a bread supplement at least partially compensate for nutritional deficiencies? After all, the addition of sawdust usually causes harvest depression in the first year, and sand, to put it mildly, is not the most nutritious medium for plants. The Zekura variety was taken for the experiment. The choice was random; at that time we did not yet know that it was Zekura that would use grain feeding less than other varieties. However, the experience cannot be called useless. The results were even somewhat surprising. If on ordinary land If 10 kg of potatoes were collected, then from the same number of nests on the sand with sawdust - 8.6 kg. Not so little! Apparently, the roots, not finding food nearby, stretched further, deeper into the ground, on which lay a pile of sand. Now let's see if the bread gave anything: the increase from it on the ground is 22% to the control (without bread), on the sand - 17%. The difference between the options of 5% is too small, and it’s too early to talk about the increase itself, since mathematical analysis showed that the differences in the yield are not reliable. Maybe there was more soil stuck to the tubers, or during harvesting they looked through and missed a couple of tubers, or maybe soil differences and microrelief played a role - some received more, some received less food and water.
At the same time (in the summer of 2014) near Krasnoyarsk, on a site with depleted heavy loamy soils, Alexander Fedorovich Linev experimented with bread. Its potato yield level, compared to Galina’s plot, is an order of magnitude lower. This is exactly the option that Galina tried to create by planting potatoes in the sand. In the Krasnoyarsk experiment, two varieties were used: mid-early Adretta and mid-ripening Panda. The bread was not soaked. Contrary to expectations, in both varieties no increase was obtained from grain feeding; moreover, a decrease in yield was noted. Moreover, the differences between the experimental and control variants are significant when high level accuracy of experience.
But why on the rich soils of Galina all varieties gave an increase, but on the poor soils it is either not significant, or the fertilizing does not work at all. To what extent should fertility decrease in order to receive an increase from organic fertilizing? Or maybe in poor soils there is simply no one to decompose organic matter, there are not enough microorganisms?
Perhaps the answer will, to some extent, be suggested by another experiment conducted by Linev with the Adretta variety. Wanting to improve fertility and get rid of weeds, two years ago Alexander Fedorovich left one part of the plot under pure fallow (he did not sow anything, but only trimmed the growing weeds), and sowed rye on the other. During fallowing, the soil rested and accumulated moisture, nutrients, and increased soil microflora. The area with rye was cleared of weeds and pests; it is not for nothing that rye is considered an excellent soil health worker. At the same time, the land was losing reserves of nutrition and moisture, which rye intensively used for its growth and development. On next year Potatoes were planted in both areas.
The potato yield in the fallow plot, as expected, was higher than after rye, and the difference was 40%. Did the grain supplement do anything? On the steam predecessor, the variant with bread showed a yield that was 14% lower than the control. The addition of bread in the area where rye was the predecessor of potatoes gave an increase of 23 percent.
What's the matter? Why, with a general low nitrogen content in the soil (agrochemical analysis showed this), on a more fertile fallow plot there is no effect from fertilizing, while on very poor soils (after rye), however, as well as on rich soils (Galina’s) there is an increase noted? Or are all these decreases and increases not significant at all, and there is no trend?
Thus, the number of questions has only increased, and in order to understand their essence, it is necessary to repeat the experiment more widely. That's what we'll do next year. Join us!
All kinds organic fertilizers have been used since time immemorial, however, as the experiments described above showed, they may not always be effective. Our experiments were carried out with bread. Where is the guarantee that other organic fertilizers of this type are just as controversial? Nuances of antagonistic relationships between plants and soil microbes, their dependence on weather conditions And soil fertility remains to be seen. Here, the microscope of Alexei Popov from Kazan (“Life in all its manifestations,” Gardens of Siberia, No. 11, 2013), and agrochemical analysis of the soil, and the simple ability to observe and analyze would be useful. This is the practical significance of our experiments, even if they were carried out on small summer cottages.
Potatoes are planted in soil rich in organic fertilizers. Ash is poured into the holes, withered grass, compost are placed, and even weeded weeds are placed between the rows.
Mustard and vetch-oat nutrient mixture are sown between the rows, cut off without allowing it to bloom and left under the potatoes to prevent open land. Rye and mustard, by the way, will drive the wireworm out of the area. If you sow green manure in the fall, you don’t have to mow it, they will rot and loosen themselves and fertilize the area.
It is best to spray potatoes against beetles using the drug “Fitoverm”, which is harmless to humans.
Wake up and put to sleep again
We are looking for the most optimal ways to grow a good harvest of tasty potatoes. You can’t plant potatoes early, when the earth has not warmed up, and you can’t plant them late, when the spring moisture has gone.
Before planting, the tubers are soaked in the “Shine” preparation, made from cereal bran.
Before planting, potatoes must be germinated. But this cannot be done in the sun or in the dark. Light and air are needed, cold and heat are dangerous, and it is better to carry out vernalization at a temperature of 18 degrees, for example, on the floor of a loggia. If you are late with vernalization and there is little time left before planting, then by increasing the temperature you can shorten the time. When sprouts and roots appear, you need to sprinkle the tubers with wet sawdust in a layer of 3-4 centimeters, reduce the temperature to 12 degrees so that a developed root system is formed.
Before planting, the potatoes need to be protected from light again a week before planting; the tubers must get used to the darkness.
Don't dig holes
There is no need to plant potatoes deeply; heavy soils You can place it generally on the surface, covering it with mulch or straw. It is best to bury the potatoes so that their upper part is at ground level. There is no need to plant potatoes often; the harvest will be smaller and smaller. The distance between tubers can reach half a meter. It is impossible to sow two potatoes, as many gardeners do. And you need to plant with the cluster of sprouts facing down. Then the stems will come out of the ground widely, and this increases the yield, because each of them will produce its own nest of potatoes. You need to hill up potatoes without pressing one sprout to another; you need to throw a shovel of earth into the center of the bush to separate it, and not bring it together in a “bouquet”. Each “trunk” should receive as much light, heat and moisture as possible. No need to plant in the shade, under apple trees.
It is known that potatoes can be planted in parts, eyes and even sprouts. Potatoes can only be cut crosswise and immediately before planting. The cut is dipped in ash and dried.
Other ways to grow potatoes
Potato pyramid
According to this method, the earth is not dug up in rows, but on each square meter vegetable gardens form a pyramid. A vertical hole is drilled from top to bottom and the potatoes are then watered through it. Potatoes are planted in a spiral. Such a bed is easier to cultivate, weeds hardly grow, and there is no need to hill up. And the harvest is said to be four times larger than usual! It might be worth a try!
Potatoes under the hay
Many gardeners, it turns out, grow potatoes in this way: they lay out tubers in rows on flat, damp and heated ground, and then cover them with dry hay (you can also use straw, mulch, weeds). The layer should always be about 25 cm (otherwise the potatoes will turn green). There is no need to weed or water. Weeds cannot break through, moisture does not evaporate from the soil. In summer, you can carefully rake away the shelter, select larger young tubers for food and cover it again. And in the fall, reap a great harvest!
ADVICE
Beans will help
It is good to plant beans with potatoes. There are small growths on their roots that release nitrogen, which significantly increases the potato yield, and the bean harvest is also good. This is done as follows: a bean is thrown into the hole along with the potatoes, and they grow together. Then the beans are harvested first, and then the potatoes are dug up. If there is still space left in the garden bed, then you can plant cabbage there; it also gets along well with potatoes.
Beets and carrots grow well in potato plots.
Lunar clues
The harvest may depend on what day the grain is thrown into the ground.
Gardeners resort to various tricks to grow a good harvest on their plot. The rhythms of nature also play a significant role in this, in particular, the influence of the Moon on all living things. Even in ancient times, depending on its phase, our ancestors were able to determine favorable and unfavorable days for planting plants. Let's follow their example!
* Full moon and new moon do not contribute to a good harvest. It is better not to engage in farming on this day.
* The waning Moon phase is well suited for planting root crops (potatoes, carrots, beets, etc.) and pruning trees. And on the growing Moon, it is better to plant those plants whose fruits ripen above the surface of the earth (tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, greens...)
* And of course, love the earth. After all, this is the main thing!
Growing potatoes on your own backyard or summer cottage- extremely common throughout almost the entire territory of our country. Having a supply of home-grown potatoes for the winter allows many to feel confident that fresh root vegetables will diversify the family menu in winter.
A high potato yield is significantly influenced by:
- weather;
- the soil;
- variety;
- quality of planting material;
- cultivation technology.
A favorable combination of all the above factors is the key good harvest. Regarding variety and reproduction seed material, then you need to take care of them in the fall, storing seed potatoes, and also better in spring– purchasing varietal potatoes from a reliable supplier.
The soil in which potatoes are planted is carefully prepared in advance. The looser and lighter it is, the more regular the shape of the root crops themselves will be, and the higher the yield will be. Of course, the type of soil, its mechanical composition, acidity and other factors also play a huge role.
During the growing process, hilling up the planted rows allows you to increase the yield of potatoes. Hilling is carried out with special cultivators during mechanized cultivation of plantings, or manually. Hilling increases the formation of plant roots and increases productivity. The formed ridge from the soil retains more moisture, which protects root crops from overheating and drying out during the hottest time of the year. The soil ridge also gives additional stability to the entire plant, which is especially important for those potato varieties that have aboveground part well developed and reaches great heights.
Hilling is carried out at the end of spring, when the above-ground part of the plant is already well formed. There is no need to delay the hilling. Hilling up too late will allow the already formed nodules to increase their mass. Conducted over early dates Hilling will allow the plant to grow additional tubers.
It is precisely because of the need to hill up potato plantings that their thickening is unacceptable. It is necessary to have enough space between the rows to carry out this procedure. Otherwise, increasing the height of the row crest will have to be achieved by adding humus, compost or fertile soil.
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