Making an inspection hatch for tiles with your own hands. Hatch for the cellar - several design options Make a hatch built into the floor with your own hands

For a more convenient descent into such basements, it would be very good to make a special floor safe hidden hatch into the basement under the laminate - a device designed to provide convenient and safe access to the rooms located under the house.

Original disguise of a basement hatch

It is necessary to clarify that it is multifunctional and its presence has a number of positive qualities- in him all year round you can store old things, food and supplies, as well Building tools, household materials, kitchen utensils and other property, which allows you not to take up extra space. In addition, storing things in the basement is much more convenient than in a shed, since they will always be in close proximity to you.

One of necessary conditions for the basement is to maintain the same indicators temperature regime throughout the year. This goal can be achieved if you correctly make a modern floor hatch in the basement under the laminate in compliance with all basic technologies, which will ensure basement good thermal insulation.

Names of elements and design of the hatch to the basement

It is not at all necessary to make an insulated floor hatch in the basement under the laminate yourself; the corresponding order can be left in the welding shop. The only one possible problem lies only in the fact that a number of necessary building materials specialists may ask you to purchase them yourself, since they are not kept in workshops or construction warehouses.

It is best to purchase all materials taking into account some reserve, especially since all excess residues that are formed after construction will be returned to you along with the finished hatch.

Custom basement hatch option

So, in order to make a modern safe floor hatch for laminate flooring in a workshop environment you will need:

standard hinges for entrance doors;
lock with snap mechanism;
some metal corners;
metal pipe (for the frame);
steel or aluminum material in the form of sheets;
a metal rod, which will be required during the construction of the hatch to make a removable key handle;
plasterboard sheet;
conventional shock absorbers from a car;
metal nuts.

Making your own basement hatch

First, let's take a closer look at what requirements a safe basement hatch must meet if you decide to make it yourself, having previously drawn detailed drawing designs:

Before you begin installing the floor hatch that you decided to build yourself, you need to prepare everything in advance necessary tools and materials:

Original decor for a basement hatch in a wooden house

corners made of metal;
sheet metal material with an approximate thickness of 4-6 mm;
rubber;
welding machine and all related elements for its safe operation;
electrodes;
self-tapping screws;
screwdriver or screwdriver;
grinder;
electric drill;
tape measure or other measuring materials.

Before you begin directly building a hatch with your own hands, you first need to make a special frame. It must be built taking into account all proportions and technologies so that it is ideal for the overall design.

Construction and drawing of a basement hatch

To do this, using a welding machine from corners and other metal parts, you can construct a blank for the main part of the hatch structure, its shape should be a square or rectangle.

It is necessary to leave a small gap between part of the frame and the opening, which will be required for installing the sealing material. Optimal width The gap is about 5 mm.

On the further progress of work, you can make the following notes and give some general advice:

Details that you need to pay special attention to when making a basement hatch

Regardless of what you decide to do - order the manufacture of a hatch in a welding shop or make it yourself, you will need to adhere to the following general recommendations:

When choosing metal corners, you should pay attention to the fact that they are strong enough, since this is the part that will take on significant loads. The best option is to use a corner with a thickness of at least 5 mm; such dimensions will allow it to maintain its geometry and not be subject to deformation even under very heavy loads.
If, when installing the hatch, you are guided by car shock absorbers, you will need to make sure that the cover is securely fixed and does not fly out during operation, otherwise this may lead to various injuries.
An example of an installed manhole cover with shock absorbers
If the shock absorber cannot cope with pushing the cover out, the hatch door simply will not be able to open. Therefore, the power of the shock absorber must be carefully examined: when you turn the key, the cover must rise easily and smoothly. The power of shock absorbers, as well as their number, can be accurately determined only during test tests of the functioning of the structure. It is also necessary to correctly distribute their location so that the lid rises strictly at an angle of 90°, otherwise the mechanism will quickly become unusable during operation.
You will need to find the right balance in the location of the drywall panel. If the height is too low, the recessed lid will not open with the tile. If the height, on the contrary, is too high, then it will be above the floor surface.
Scheme for installing a basement hatch
It's best to use technology hidden installation hinges by analogy with how this is done on vertical doors. However, with a basement hatch, a difficulty arises due to the fact that the door has a lining, the thickness of which can reach 1.5 cm. To do this, it is necessary to take into account the minimum requirements for the gap that will need to be left. The process requires separate study and calculation regarding the design of the loop, which qualified specialists can help with.
All gaps should not have direct contact with other elements of the hatch when it is opened, otherwise this risks chipping the lining in the hinge area.
Example of installation of fasteners
When using the installation technology described above hidden loops, well-thought-out gaps must be formed with equal distances between the cladding elements.
The ideal design is one that has a swing-front opening. In other words, the hatch cover should initially rise upward, and then move to the side. If you follow all the recommendations listed, you should get exactly the option that is considered the most reliable and will ensure the durability of your basement hatch.

In conclusion, I would like to note that if the hatch is manufactured and installed efficiently and correctly, it will save free space inside the living space, and with the proper approach, completely hide the presence of the descent so as not to harm the design and decorative appeal of the living space. For many homeowners, this is a must.

When arranging the entrance to the basement great importance has the reliability and quality of the hinges used; installation of elements that are not strong enough or cannot withstand loads leads to rapid loosening of the doors or complicates the process of opening them. If you have the correct drawing, installation is not a problem; mandatory conditions maintenance includes measures to extend service life: inspection, tightening, oil lubrication. You can purchase the necessary accessories at any hardware store; in most cases, the frame and cover are made independently.

1. Stretched overhead hinges, fixed on one side of the hatch and on the floor or wall. The cost depends on reliability and decorativeness, maximum costs observed when using forged types.

2. Hidden, mounted in the ceiling or internal frame and allowing the basement door to be brought to the same level with floor covering. When choosing this option, the hole in the underground is easily covered with a carpet; only the owners of the house will know about it.

3. Driven mechanisms that automatically open and close heavy and massive hatches, most often metal. This variety, in turn, is divided into retractable and folding groups.

4. Pantographs that ensure sequential movement of hatches upward and only then to the side. When using such hinges, the edges of the door come out of the ceilings without problems, regardless of the thickness of the materials. The best results are achieved when they are installed on wooden structures and doors with two leaves.

5. Gas shock absorbers, closers and stops, simplifying the lifting of the hatch from the cellar and allowing it to be fixed in the desired position. The main advantage is the ability to lift heavy doors made of metal and wood by one person when they are positioned horizontally.

Regardless of the type, the fasteners used are subject to strict requirements in terms of withstanding weight loads, ensuring backlash and anti-corrosion protection. Hinges, like handles, are purchased with a reserve. For small manhole sizes (within 0.75-1 m2), two pieces installed closer to the corner are sufficient; in other cases, the axis is strengthened in the center. Actively used hatches require metal edging around the edges; this requirement is taken into account when selecting the backlash.

Description of the “Cellar” set

At self-production and installation, it’s worth buying a universal kit. Standard kit includes:

Gas shock absorbers (stops) with the required length and force (from 500 N and above).
Mounting brackets, including wall bracket.
Hidden hinges (left and right) with a bracket for a gas shock absorber and central ones without it.
A prefabricated lock consisting of a mounting and lifting plate, a locking part with a set of keys that simplify opening the hatch and lifting it.

The Cellar set can be purchased fully equipped, but in most cases not all of its parts are used. When installing a simple basement hatch without shock absorbers, the central hinges and lock are sufficient. Regardless of the selected configuration, the mount ensures free opening of the hole with a minimum gap along its perimeter with a floor covering thickness of up to 1.5 cm. Hidden or secret handles with brackets or a ring are purchased separately. The cost of the parts included in the “Cellar” kit varies from 150 to 1500 rubles, they are characterized by: high quality metal and anti-corrosion protection.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a hatch with your own hands

Work begins with drawing up a layout of the lid, taking into account future furniture and passage locations; if possible, the entrance is arranged at the stage of building the house. To make a small structure, boards up to 40 mm thick are used, covered with moisture-resistant plywood; if intense load is expected, it is better to construct the frame from solid timber. All wooden elements pre-treated with drying oil, antiseptics or similar hydrophobic impregnation. Metal version It is recommended to make it from a sheet of steel from 3 mm and higher and the same corner; to insulate the underground, it is insulated with a sheet of foam plastic.

When making from wood, a simple procedure is followed: to subfloor a frame of 4 pieces of timber is nailed down → a blank 1 cm smaller than the selected size is assembled from boards and plywood → regular hinges are added from the basement side or shock absorbers are fixed → in in the right place a hidden handle is inserted → the lid is screwed at an angle of 90 ° and checked for jamming.

Wooden hidden hatches It is recommended to create multi-layered ones, top scores are achieved by making the first and outer layer of moisture resistant plywood, padding along the edges of the sheathing and filling internal space insulation. A 1 cm gap is required.

Wooden varieties are easier to make yourself; you will need a welding machine and an angle grinder with appropriate discs. Step by step diagram The work includes: cutting out a door from metal in compliance with the exact dimensions → welding a corner around the perimeter of the hatch; if the area is large, it is fixed inside the structure as additional stiffening ribs → laying a sheet of foam plastic with a thickness no more than the height of the corner → fixing the insulation using thin steel and self-tapping screws. Next stage consists of welding and anchoring a metal frame, subsequently reinforced hinges and closers are mounted to one of the selected sides, and a sealing strip is installed to the other.

When arranging a manhole in the basement with simultaneous filling concrete floor There are no problems - to bring the hatch to the same level with the floor, it is enough to recess the frame a few mm deep. In this case it is more difficult to hide the handle; when making it yourself, it is simply welded to outside metal The exception is types that are closed flooring materials, they require a special approach to fastening fittings. All involved steel elements in mandatory coated with anti-corrosion primers or paints.

When carrying out hidden installation Special attention is given to markings. On metal structures, holes for future fastening are prepared in advance; all elements have exact dimensions, when working with wooden hatches knocked down or glued together, they are cut 5-10 mm smaller due to the risk of fiber swelling. During installation, a strip with a height that matches the size of the provided gap between it and the floor is placed under the end of the door. Screws or self-tapping screws are screwed in when the hinges are positioned at right angles. During fixation, the lid is opened and closed several times until a smooth movement is achieved, without jamming in any area. If necessary, the hinges are shifted and twisted, but under no circumstances should they be used in an incorrectly secured state.

To ensure safe and long service a number of measures are taken even at the stage of constructing a hatch into the basement with your own hands.

1. In houses with children, protection is provided against accidental opening of the door; if necessary, a lock with keys is inserted into it.

2. The outer part of the cover is finished with the same materials as the rest of the floor. To bring the upper plane to the zero level, the type and thickness of the floor covering are determined in advance.

3. At least once a year, the rotating elements are treated with lithol or oil; with active use, this period is reduced. Both hinged and hidden hinges require lubrication; free access is provided from the cellar side or from above.

4. Measures are being taken to insulate the underground: the hatch is sealed around the perimeter and insulated.

5. If there is a high risk of damage to the floor covering, to prevent creases at the moment of opening, the edges of the tile or laminate facing the axial side are cut at an angle of 60°.

6. The risk of the cover being pressed into the basement is eliminated; the width of the corresponding supporting strips is at least twice the size of the gap or sealing layer.

7. Actively used horizontal hatches are reinforced at the edges with metal.

Temporary doors to the cellar can be secured using a piece of rubber or simple canopies. If it is impossible to purchase factory-quality products, they are fixed on hinges from the hood of the car with a spring mechanism. This option is also worth choosing if you have a lot of weight or need frequent installation V open position. Automotive shock absorbers successfully fix both wooden and steel varieties.

Possible mistakes

The main problems arise when bringing the upper plane level with the floor mark, especially when making a hatch under the tiles with your own hands. Erroneous actions include fixing the door or screwing the hinges before installing the floor covering or adjusting its position when the concrete has not yet hardened.

Opening and changing the fastening is only permissible if there is a stable frame: the heavier the structure, the stronger Negative consequences. Violations of installation and operation technology also include the lack of anti-corrosion protection for metal elements and antifungal - for wooden ones, using weak hinges and ignoring the need for their lubrication.

If the house has a cellar, you need to make an entrance to it. This could be a door or a hatch. As a rule, in private homes the choice is made in favor of the second option. Next, let's look at how to equip do-it-yourself cellar hatch. Drawing the design, or more precisely, how to compose it, will also be described in this article.

Relevance of the issue

There is no point in arguing about the benefits of a cellar in the house. He not only acts as utility room, increasing the area of the house, but also ensures that the floor of the first floor is always dry and warm. Its arrangement, however, requires considerable investment. In addition, you must have certain skills and knowledge of building codes.

Those owners of private houses who have sufficient funds entrust the arrangement of the cellar and its entrance to professionals. Other owners prefer to do the work themselves.

As a rule, a basement is provided for in the project. Accordingly, at the design stage the location of the hatch into the cellar is determined. It should be arranged so that the lid does not interfere with walking or touch furniture. It is important to consider appearance hatch to the cellar. Lid should be made of a material that is in harmony with the surrounding environment. Before starting work, it is necessary to think through the details and take into account the nuances.

Features of drawing up a hatch into the cellar

When drawing up a diagram, you should determine:

The place where the hatch will be located. As mentioned above, the lid should not interfere with movement around the room and should not touch surrounding objects.
Optimal cellar hatch dimensions. Minimum internal parameters 75x75 cm.
The material from which the hatch will be made. It should be light but durable.
Materials for thermal insulation and ensuring the tightness of the structure.

Floor hatch to the cellar often equipped with a smooth opening/closing system. In houses where there are small children and animals, a fixing device is also provided.

To prevent unauthorized access to the cellar, the hatch can be equipped with an electric drive.

Material selection

It depends on a variety of factors. When choosing, the material from which the walls of the house are made is taken into account.

For example, in wooden structures, boards and sheets of plywood are used for the cellar hatch. Cut according to drawing required sizes, treated with special impregnations. Within a few days, the composition should be completely absorbed into the wood. After this, the actual installation begins.

The cellar hatch can also be metal. To install it you will need:

Steel sheets with a thickness of 0.5-1 and 3-4 mm.
Angle 40 or 50 mm.
Door hinges.
Styrofoam.
Rubber compressor.
Grinder and cutting wheels.
Primer.
Welding machine.
Self-tapping screws.
Drill with drills.

How to install a cellar hatch with your own hands?

As mentioned above, the first thing to do is to draw up a drawing. It is necessary to calculate everything accurately so as not to redo the work.

Before that, you need to prepare the material and tools. The blanks are cut according to the drawing and the support is installed. It is attached to the flooring.

The edge of the shield must be treated with longitudinal slats. Insulation (mineral wool or polystyrene foam) is placed in the sheathing.

After the main activities have been completed, it begins external finishing. Typically, the material from which the floor is made is used.

Nuances

If you have the materials and tools, you can make the blanks yourself. However, as a rule, owners turn to metal depots. In workshops you can order blanks according to individual sizes.

When choosing steel sheet for a metal hatch, it is necessary to take into account that its size should be larger than the size of the manhole and slightly overlap it.

The corners must be placed at a distance of 5-10 mm from the edge. Stiffening ribs should be installed in the center of the structure.

Welding of parts is done without gaps. The finished cover is cleaned and primed.

It is necessary to lay insulation in the internal voids. It is covered with plywood or another steel sheet.

The hatch is installed on the hinges using anchors.

Don't forget about the seal. It will provide floor protection and additional insulation.

For installation you can use door hinges, if the hatch is made of lightweight material(trees, for example). For severe metal structure It is better to choose more reliable hinges.

Smooth ride

It makes it much easier to use hatch to the cellar. With shock absorbers The lid will close smoothly, which will prevent injury. When installing the mechanism, you must keep the cover open.

You can make the lid move smoothly different ways. One of the most popular is the use of spring hinges used in car hoods. This option is suitable for light metal or wooden hatches. The fastening must be carried out so that the lid can be opened perpendicular to the floor.

Another option is gas shock absorbers. They are used if the manhole cover is heavy. In stores you can find various shock absorbers of different capacities, suitable for any design.

Pen

It is usually made folding or hidden. Some craftsmen cut a recess in the lid. Removable handles are also a common option. They have one important advantage: the hatch cannot be opened by small children.

When making a hatch with your own hands, it is advisable to use simple inexpensive options that do not involve working with metal products.

Electric drive

As mentioned above, this mechanism prevents unauthorized access to the cellar by strangers. There are several ways to install the electric drive. Let's consider the simplest option.

For installation you need:

Electric motor.
Duralumin pipes.
Sheets of steel.
Welding machine.
Grinder with cutting wheels.
Cable.
Current source.

The mechanism is installed directly on the lid. In this case, it is recommended to leave some margin for opening the hatch (that is, the lid should open slightly less than 90 degrees).

The mechanism operates quite simply. The signal is sent using remote control, rotation begins in the system, and accordingly, the lid begins to move. Lifting is provided by a rod. You can also close the hatch using the remote control.

Retractable system

To install it you will need:

Steel sheets 5 mm thick.
Two electric motors.
Metal rollers.
Three position switch.
Current source.
Cable.

This design is more complicated than described above. However, it allows you to make the hatch cover almost invisible. The entire mechanism is located under it and does not take up much space.

Hatch for tiles

As in all previous cases, a drawing is developed. It displays the following parameters:

Box dimensions (width, length).
The thickness of the opening and frame.
Loop locations.

Before installation cellar hatch for tiles a level base is created. A screed is used for this. Alignment is carried out in several stages:

The level of the floor covering is determined. In this case, you should take into account the thickness of the tile (about 8 mm), as well as the adhesive layer (about 4 mm).
The solution is prepared, the beacons are set.
The opening of the future hatch is flanged. In this case, you need to leave 10 cm around the perimeter to support the lid.

The screed is performed according to standard technology. After the solution has hardened, the hatch is tried on. It is applied to the opening. At this stage, it is recommended to pre-lay out the tiles.

The cladding begins from the corner of the wall, which is located in plain sight. Trimming and laying tiles when finishing the opening begins after installing the frame for the hatch cover.

Finishing

The ends are designed in in a certain order. It is necessary to perform the following steps step by step:

Attach the frame to the niche and level it using a building level.
Existing gaps between metal frame and the screed must be filled with mortar. For its preparation, cement grade M-500 is used. The solution must completely harden.
Trim the tiles and cover the remaining area around the opening.
The slopes of the niche must be leveled. To do this, beacons are installed, cement mortar is applied and leveled.
The slopes are tiled.
Before the glue dries, it is recommended to fix the tiles with tape and place demarcating crosses.

Installation and lining of the cover

The hatch can be installed on hinges or using any of the mechanisms described above. After securing the cover, you can begin finishing it. If the floor covering is tile, then it can also be laid on the hatch. In general, as practice shows, the most different materials. The main thing is that the appearance of the hatch is in harmony with the interior design. At the same time, of course, we should not forget about the technology of laying this or that material.

IN wooden houses hatches are usually not finished. They are simply covered on top with linoleum or other covering.

Conclusion

In general, making a cellar hatch yourself is not difficult. The main difficulties may arise at the design stage and during sizing calculations. At these stages, you need to take into account many nuances, including the expected load on the lid, the frequency of visits to the cellar, its purpose, the features of the items that will be there, and much more. To store large items you need a large hatch.

It should be remembered that when tiling the hatch, its weight will increase significantly. Therefore, when preliminary calculations you need to determine the most suitable hinges or closing mechanism. We should not forget about the stiffeners. Their number will depend on the dimensions of the lid. In standard hatches minimum size(75x75 cm) 1-2 stiffening ribs are provided.

Particular attention must be paid to safety. We are talking not only about operation, but also about installation of the structure. The opening will have to be kept open while the hatch is being installed. In this regard, if there are small children or animals in the house, access to the work site should be limited for them.

We should not forget about the insulation. If it is not placed in the structure, heat will escape through the lid. It will also help prevent heat loss. In addition, it will soften the contact between the cover and the frame.

If you are determined to actively use attic space, most likely you will have to make a hatch into the attic. In villages in the past, this task was dealt with very simply - it was enough to use ladder, but for modern man such a dubious method can hardly be called suitable. Definitely, you will need a convenient access hole from inside the house, and not from outside, as was previously practiced. Available for sale ready-made solutions, but you will still have to install them yourself, and the dimensions of the structure may not work. This article will talk about how to make the roof of a house habitable.

Buy or make?

Ladder extension

Those who are planning to buy ready product, can use the instructions for installing it, which will also be given in this article, and those who want to make a convenient hatch to the attic with their own hands will be interested full information about the process, which we offer for reading. So here are a few important nuances that will be useful in your work:

choose a location for the opening so as not to hit your head on rafter elements or the roof at the time of lifting up;
an entrance to the roof of the house is not built under the floor beams;
If top floor still not insulated, will have to do thermal insulation;
the opening definitely needs to be strengthened. Suitable for wooden structures wooden beams, and in concrete houses reinforcement is carried out with metal corners;
it is necessary to provide free space under the hatch for retractable ladder.

If you make the hatch along with the ladder yourself, do not be lazy to carefully study all the stages of the process, then you will not encounter difficulties in the work, and it will not seem complicated to you.

Manufacturing stages

Before making a hatch into the attic, you need to draw up drawings on which all necessary measurements and parameters: the thickness of the ceiling, the dimensions of the cover and the opening that you will cut. Please note that insulated rooms can be equipped with a regular cover, while cold rooms will require additional thermal insulation. It doesn’t matter how you draw up the diagram - by hand on paper or in a special computer program, the main thing is to take into account all the necessary dimensions. Once the diagram has been drawn up, you can proceed to the practical side of the issue, as well as prepare the tools for the work.

Cutting the opening

Cutting an opening for the attic

If a roof access hole was not provided during the construction of the house, you will have to cut it out yourself. Of course, if such a hole for installing the door already exists, this stage of work is skipped.

To begin with, markings are carried out with the expectation that the hole should be 5–6 cm larger than the dimensions of the hatch frame. In the future, the gap will help compensate for the thickness of the boards from which the frame will be made. Material from a sawn piece ceiling can be used to cover the lid, of course, if it has a normal aesthetic appearance.

Assembling the opening frame

Assembling the opening frame for the attic

Here we will need boards with a thickness of 2 - 3 cm, this is the caliber that will make the base durable. The frame can be round or square shape. The second option requires that all corners be straight. Frame sizes of 60x120 cm can be considered standard, and these dimensions are suitable for the vast majority of homeowners. You are guided by personal preferences and the dimensions of the opening; you may want to enlarge the opening to the roof of the house, but we do not recommend making it smaller. After assembly, the frame is mounted on its seat into the ceiling opening.

Making a lid

Hatch with lid to the attic

As mentioned earlier, the most ordinary cover can be assembled from the cut out remains of the ceiling, which were formed as a result of cutting out the opening. The assembled door must be reinforced with reverse side cross bar. Then it needs to be secured in the selected place with loops located along the long or short side of the lid. Take a closer look at which side will be more convenient for you to open the door, and only then proceed to secure it to the frame. Also consider how the hatch leading to the roof of the house should open, inside or outside the room.

We do insulation and finishing

Attic insulation scheme

The issue with insulation, as we said earlier, will depend entirely on the degree of thermal insulation of the upper floor. An insulated floor can get by with a basic layer of insulation, but we advise you to pay attention to sound insulation. Naturally, a cold room needs a high-quality large-scale insulating coating. To do this, you will have to lay a layer of vapor barrier membrane and a layer insulation material according to the standard scheme for such a process. On last stage Exterior finishing needs to be done.

As you already understand, this is how the simplest hatch leading to the roof of the house is installed. To more difficult decisions This includes a design with a retractable staircase. Installation process here it is performed according to a similar scheme with only some differences.

Complex designs

Installation of stairs for the attic

The hatch to the attic can be equipped with a stationary ladder. Here, too, work begins with cutting the opening. The further course of the process depends on which design you have chosen and in what order you will make it. Let’s say right away that the work of assembling and installing the hatch with the ladder in in this case will be somewhat more complicated than in the option discussed above. Be sure to ensure that all sizes of interacting elements match:

retractable ladder;
doors;
opening;
thickness of the ceiling.

You can measure all these parameters yourself or remove them from a purchased product if you do not make it yourself. In this case, the cover must have a space that will accommodate the longest part of the retractable ladder in the assembled position.

Also remember that the weight of the ladder must be adequately supported by the lid, otherwise breakage and, in the worst case, injury cannot be avoided. We must not forget about the reliable latch, which will firmly hold the structure in the frame of the ceiling opening.

All the processes that we mentioned are presented schematically, but if you decide to build an attic hatch yourself, you don’t need more detailed information, because you most likely have certain skills, but general recommendations illustrations won't hurt anyone. Anyone who buys a ready-made hatch for access to the roof of a house can use the installation instructions, which are necessarily included with the product.

Almost every owner own home sets up a cellar in his home - a place where he can store canned food, products from the garden, and seasonal items. In a properly equipped cellar, due to its proximity to the ground, it always preserves low temperature and a certain humidity. The entrance to the cellar, located on the floor, often leads from the kitchen or hallway of the house.

You need to know how to properly make an entrance hatch into the “bins” in order to avoid heat loss and not disturb the interior of the floor of the room. It is also important to consider a system of stoppers or shock absorbers that will prevent spontaneous closing of the hatch at the moment when a person descends into the cellar.

If the construction of a house is in full swing and the location of the hatch to the basement or cellar is still at the development stage, it is worth considering the following nuances.

The entrance should be located in convenient location, not next to the wall. This is necessary so that the hatch opens without any interference.
If you plan to make the entrance to the cellar in the kitchen, it is important to place the entrance where there will be no furniture, for example, dinner table. It is important that the raised lid does not touch kitchen set or other things.
The design of the hatch cover must be reinforced and withstand the weight of a person, if, for example, the entrance to the cellar will be from the corridor.
Dimensions of the entrance to the cellar. They must be “tailored” to the dimensions of the owners. This is necessary in order to easily go down to the basement and get the necessary things and products out of it.

A wooden hatch is made if a wooden plank. This will visually hide the entrance to the underground and lighten the weight of the entire structure.

To make a wooden hatch, the following tools are required.

Saw.
Hammer.
Screwdriver.
Brush.

You also need to prepare the necessary materials.

Boards for the top flooring.
Laths for sheathing.
Beams for supports
Plywood.
Drying oil.
Nails.
Screws.
Chalk or pencil.
Insulation.
Hinges and gas shock absorber.
Pen.

If the hole into the cellar measures 80 by 80 cm, then the lid should be made a little smaller so that it fits freely to the floor. The gaps between the floor and the hatch cover should be no more than 4-5 mm.

The height of the hatch must match the dimensions of the finishing and rough coating. For this purpose, the hatch is made multi-layered. The first layer is plywood, onto which slats are laid in the form of sheathing. Insulation (second layer) is placed between these slats to prevent drafts. A board (finishing layer) is attached to the top of the slats.

It is advisable to select a material that matches the width and thickness of the board laid on the floor. It is also a good idea to nail the top boards of the hatch parallel to the floorboard so that the cover does not stand out too much on the floor.

The design of such an insulated wooden hatch is not too heavy; it can be equipped with ordinary hinges attached to the basement side. But experts recommend equipping the hatch with gas closers, which simplify lifting the structure.

A special handle is attached to the front surface of the hatch, which is placed on the floor and does not protrude.

Video - Hatch to a cellar made of wood with closers

Metal structures are more reliable and stronger than wooden hatches. But making such a lid is much more difficult.

To make a metal hatch you will need the following tools.

Angle grinder with metal cutting disc.
Welding machine.
Screwdriver.
Roulette.

You should also stock up on materials.

Sheet steel, thickness 3 mm and 1 mm.
Steel corner 3-4 mm.
Loops.
Gas closer.
Anchors
Polystyrene foam or other insulation material.
Rubber gaskets-sealers.
Primer.

To make the lid you need cut a sheet of steel to size, for example, 80 by 80 cm. Experts recommend using material at least 3 mm thick.

On steel around the perimeter with inside welded corner. It is also recommended to weld stiffeners from the same corner, between which to place insulation. It turns out that the area of the hatch cover is divided into 4 sectors. All welding work It is advisable to carry out it carefully, it is advisable to clean the seams.

The insulation should not be wider than the corner. Thin sheet steel or tin is overlapped over the insulating material, is bent using blows with a mallet and secured to the corners with self-tapping screws.

The hatch is ready.

The next stage is the installation of the cellar entrance frame. For this steel angle is cut into fragments corresponding to the size of the hatch opening. The corners are welded between each other and attached to the concrete using anchors. One of the sides of the frame is a support for the metal hatch. On the protruding edge of the frame seal is attached, which will reduce heat losses and will protect the hatch from friction and impacts on the edges of the frame.

The lid is attached to the metal frame using special reinforced loops that can support the weight of the structure. To make the hatch easy to open, it is recommended to equip it with gas closers. It is recommended to treat all metal steel parts of the hatch structure with drying oil to avoid corrosion.

If the hatch is installed during the construction of the house, then you can hide the entrance to the underground by finishing floor.

Video – Metal hatch laminate floor

Tile - perfect material for kitchen. Many housewives prefer this type of floor finishing, especially since decorating a hatch to the basement in uniform style It's not too difficult with flooring.

This requires the following materials:

steel corner;
steel sheet 3 mm minimum;
reinforcement with a cross section of 3-4 mm;
solution;
tile.

The tools needed are the same as when making a regular metal hatch.

Unlike a regular metal hatch, the tile cover is made slightly differently. A blank corresponding to the size of the hatch is cut out of sheet steel. This will be the bottom. A corner is welded along the perimeter of the workpiece, forming the sides. Reinforcement is welded inside the sides to form cells.

The frame for the entrance to the cellar is welded from steel corners and recessed into concrete to the width of the lid. The structure is connected using reinforced hinges. For safety, you can equip the lid with a gas shock absorber.

Once the structure is ready, you can start decorating it. The mortar on which the tiles will be laid is mixed. The solution is poured into the manhole cover, hiding the reinforcing mesh. Tiles are laid on top.

It is important to lay the material on the hatch so that its seams match the tiles laid on the floor.