Carpentry workbench is the cornerstone of a woodworker's workshop. It allows you to properly organize your workspace, increase productivity and improve the quality of work, regardless of whether you are a fan of manual or electromechanical tools. In this material we will tell you how to make a classic wooden workbench with your own hands.
About carpentry workbenches
Design and purpose of the workbench
A carpentry workbench is a work table for manual and machining wooden products. The design and ergonomics of a classic carpentry workbench allow you to fix parts in various spatial positions and perform basic carpentry operations with maximum convenience: making wooden parts, assembling structures, coating them with finishing compounds. Traditional carpenter's table designed for working with lumber up to 3-3.5 m long. To process longer workpieces, use a carpenter's workbench.
A table for carpentry work consists of a bench board (cover) and a bench (supporting frame). A traditional workbench is equipped with front (front) and rear (end) vices, with the help of which the workpieces are fixed in the required spatial positions.
There are holes in the table top and the wooden jaws of the vice. They are designed for installing clamps and stops of various sections and heights.
Having placed the stops in the desired configuration, the part is placed between them and pressed with the screw mechanism of the vice. This way the workpiece is securely fixed in a horizontal position. Based on thickness wooden part, use a stop of appropriate height that will not protrude beyond the edge of the workpiece and interfere with processing.
How to choose the optimal workbench height?
The height of carpentry workbenches varies between 85-95 cm. Optimal height The table is selected based on the height of the master. If, standing at the workbench, your palms rest freely on its lid, then the size has been selected correctly. At such a workbench it will be convenient to perform all basic operations, without frequent bending and stretching, which lead to rapid fatigue.
What materials are best to make the structure from?
A carpentry workbench must have sufficient strength and rigidity, since during operation it is subjected to large loads, both static, formed under the weight of massive workpieces, and dynamic, arising in the process of sawing, drilling, impacts, etc. Sufficient strength characteristics are ensured not only by the features of the fastening units, but also the type of materials used.
Wood is traditionally used to make the base. coniferous species. The table top is made of durable wood: oak, beech, ash, maple, etc. The lumber used to create the bench board must be dry (humidity about 12%) without knots and other defects.
About making a workbench cover
Experience shows that when making a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is more advisable to purchase a ready-made glued board, which will become a blank for the lid. The effort and time spent on cutting, jointing edges, gluing the shield and leveling it when creating such a massive part will be incomparable with the funds saved.
When performing work that increases the risk of damage to the lid: drilling, chiselling, etc., it is better to cover the working surface of the workbench with a thick plywood sheet or fiberboard cut to the shape of the lid. It is advisable to make this simple flooring immediately together with the workbench.
Manufacturing and assembly of sidewalls
The sidewall design consists of two legs (B), drawers and supports (A). The part is assembled on a through-glued tenon.
The figured cutouts of the drawers and supports (detail A) are cut out on band saw followed by sanding the edges.
In accordance with the dimensions indicated in the diagram, markings are made on the legs for the tenons of the prongs, after which they are selected with a chisel or milled.
On outside The legs are tapped into a conical recess under the head of the coupling bolt. A recess with a diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 11 mm is made with a Forstner drill. A through hole with a diameter of 14 mm is drilled in the center.
Sawing out tenons and eyes
Spikes and eyes are made on sawing machine or manually, guided basic principles creating tenon joints. In such a critical design, the first option is preferable, since it allows you to minimize errors and inaccuracies, ensuring a perfect fit of the connection. The workpieces must have prepared, flat surfaces and correspond to the dimensions indicated in the drawing.
The halves of parts A are glued together, having previously placed an insert in the groove that will prevent displacement.
Side panel assembly
Parts A and B are glued together to form a finished joint. After drying, any excess glue that appears is carefully cleaned off with a chisel. The assembled sidewall is sanded.
In the center of the glued drawer, drill a 19x38 mm hole for a dowel (L) to fix the workbench cover.
Manufacturing of pedestals and underbench shelves
According to the dimensions indicated in the drawing, blanks for the legs (part C) are cut out in the amount of 4 pieces. Spikes are made at the ends of each part, adhering to the dimensions indicated in the photo. As with the sidewall, this operation is best done on a saw.
The connection of the legs with the sidewall is made detachable using a bolt tie with a transverse nut. To do this, a recess for transverse nuts d25 mm and depth 32 mm is milled on the inside of the legs. A 14X95 mm hole is drilled at the ends of the legs. At this stage it is better to use a drilling jig, since the holes must be made strictly at an angle of 90°.
The support strips (parts D and E) are screwed with self-tapping screws at a distance of 22 mm from the upper edges of the supports.
According to the dimensions specified in the “General detailing” drawing, the planks of the underbench shelf are cut out (detail F). Holes are drilled and countersunk at the ends of each plank. The planks are ground and sequentially mounted on the assembled frame.
Installation of the bench cover
There is no drilling on the back side of the bench board. through holes d19 mm and 32 mm deep for dowels (L).
Using a drill bit d19 mm, through holes are made on the cover for bench stops. Similar sockets 45 mm deep are drilled at the end of the lid. All holes are chamfered. The stops should fit easily into the sockets and not have any play.
Advice! For all drilling operations, use a drill with a jig to ensure clean holes at a perfectly right angle. It won’t be difficult to make such a guide yourself, if you have a piece of timber on hand.
Installation of a bench vise
Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is more advisable to buy a carpenter's vice at finished form. In this case, you will get the most reliable and functional design, and, importantly, you will get rid of unnecessary headaches during their installation.
Manufacturers of bench vices try to adhere to standards in the manufacture of their products. Here we will look at the installation diagram standard designs. But it is quite possible that you will have to improvise, adapting the installation to the features of a non-standard bench vise.
Vise jaws - parts H, I and J (2 pcs.) - are cut from hardwood. After this, holes are drilled for the guide rods, the lead screw, the socket for the bench stops and the holes for the mounting screws.
The rear jaws of the front and rear vices are mounted to the workbench cover as shown in the photo.
Wooden linings (part K) are cut to fit the size of the vice. Through holes are drilled in the drawers for the guide rods and the lead screw.
Advice! To accurately mark the holes, use the guides themselves, pieces masking tape and a soft pencil.
I want to weld a workbench for the garage. Locksmith, as in a workshop.
To cook on it, and to sharpen, and to fasten a vice, and to put tools in drawers.
I managed to visualize my intentions. I spent a long time looking through different layout options and estimating the dimensions. I think I have found the best option for myself.
Blue indicates metal parts, yellow indicates wooden parts.
The tabletop will be made of a 50mm thick board, surrounded by a 50x50x4 corner and covered with a 2mm sheet of metal. The workbench frame will be welded from profile pipe 60x40x2. Stiffening ribs will be welded from a 40x40x4 corner. The shelves and side panels will be made from 30mm thick boards. Guides for attaching the side panels will be made from a 40x4 strip. The boxes will be welded from 2mm metal and installed on powerful skids.
To purchase metal, we agreed with Dikiy to order a Gazelle for two in order to pay less, and on Saturday at 8:30 in the morning, so as not to drag it out over the whole day, we went to the metal depot.
The weather was slippery and with a cold wind. A loader in a torn army pea coat, who looked to have suffered from hangover syndrome, took out wet metal for cutting. Nearby, in a puddle, lay a dirty carrier with a grinder connected to it. Cut pieces of rolled metal splashed into a slush puddle. The ordered Gazelle was waiting nearby. It was getting light.
Don’t call me a maniac, but after arriving at the garage, I washed with water and wiped dry the grimy, rusty pieces of freshly purchased metal. You still need to clean it before painting, otherwise it will be more pleasant to work with.
On that harsh January morning the following were purchased:
1. Corner 50x50x4 6.4 meters
2. Pipe 60x40x2 24 meters
3. Corner 40x40x4 6.75 meters
4. Strip 40x4 8 meters
A total of 121 kilograms of metal worth 4,000 rubles.
Now I will cook my workbench.
Cutting the main frame parts took two evenings, a total of five hours.
In total, it turns out that the skeleton of the workbench will consist of 45 welded parts.
The tags indicate what it is and where to weld it.
Now you can calmly put everything on the back burner and surrender to the thick, stinking, sticky quagmire of your daily hopeless routine.
Welded brackets for the tool panel above the workbench.
And the base for the homemade table top was welded.
The cross members of the base for the table top are welded flush with the corner. For this purpose, figured cutouts are made in the crossbars. Here is a small drawing of what it looks like:
In the meantime, I welded the instrument panel brackets.
Reinforced loaded joints with 4mm strip overlays.
I welded 24 brackets for the side panels. The panels will be plywood - cheaper than metal, and look better.
The brackets provide additional rigidity to the entire structure.
I want to cover the tabletop with a 4mm or 5mm sheet of metal. There is an office on Moskovsky Prospekt that immediately cuts sheets of metal to size. I need a sheet 2200x750.
If you take a sheet of 2500x1250, then there will be two good pieces left (2200x500 and 300x1250) or (2500x500 and 750x300), which can also be chopped into the required sizes.
If such pieces will be useful to someone, then let’s cooperate, otherwise it’s a little expensive for one.
I made boxes from 15mm plywood. I assembled it with 80mm screws. Each box contains 20 screws. It turned out solid, just the way I like it.
The size of each box is 0.6m x 0.7m x 0.2m
The slides were secured by welding. I learned how to weld a 1mm tin to a 4mm strip with a 3mm electrode at a current of 100 amner. It's like putting a 3-liter V8 car engine in a food processor. It was just that TIG was too lazy to uncover. Moreover, it holds securely anyway.
Now I'm thinking about different options facades.
This completes the welding stage. There's carpentry and painting ahead. Some other little things like plumbing and electrical wiring.
Painting the frame of a homemade workbench.
I asked the seller to recommend a good paint.
- Wow, what a good paint, I swear by my mother! - he answered, handing over a can of rust paint with metal chips for 500 rubles.
Covered the tabletop edged board 150x40. I fastened the boards to the frame with 4.0x35 self-tapping screws. In total I used 60 self-tapping screws.
I sanded the surface a little so that the sheet of metal lay more tightly.
He talked about protecting wood from fire. Impregnated wood cannot support combustion on its own.
When impregnated wood is heated, a melted film is formed, which does not burn and limits the access of oxygen to the surface. The manufacturer of my impregnation declared group I fire-retardant efficiency - the highest.
Of course, this does not allow you to weld metal directly on the surface of the workbench. The boards will still char if they don’t catch fire. To organize a welding station, I plan to weld a removable grill that will reliably protect the surface of the tabletop from heat.
After drying, I will cover the tabletop with an already prepared 4mm sheet of metal.
Covered the tabletop with a 4mm sheet of metal. The leaf was attracted to wooden base rows of self-tapping screws with a hidden head. The tabletop turned out to be monumental.
I used 10mm plywood shields to cover the extra openings in the workbench frame.
The photo shows a paint shop.
Registered permanent residents on the tabletop - grinder and a vice. They get lost on a hefty tabletop.
1) What is the best way to cover the bare metal on the countertop? I'm leaning towards a rust converter that will create a durable protective film and which is easy to update if necessary. Maybe there are better ideas?
2) Where can I get a durable chair with adjustable height?
P.S. I think it will be interesting for those reading this thread - a bourgeois site with a bunch of ideas for welded tables and other welded things: http://www.pinterest.com/explore/welding-table/ Following the links you can find the manufacturing process of everything presented.
Still, I took the plunge and coated the countertop with rust converter. Apply a thin, even layer.
While the tabletop was drying, I finished with the shelves in the left drawer
Well, in general, greasing the countertop was not a bad idea. It really turned out to be a film, as if it was covered with varnish. True, it is not covered very neatly, but it is really easy to restore - because... the film is easily dissolved by a new portion of the converter and dries again, hiding all old damage.
From the large one, all that remains is to make a panel for tools and place fasteners for everything, everything, everything on it.
I want to hang a sheet of plywood or a solid one furniture board 15mm thick and 2.2 meters x 1 meter in size. If anyone has one, I suggest exchanging it for a 4mm sheet of metal 2.2 meters x 0.5 meters (left over from the countertop).
Well, actually, that’s why...
Test passed
Class! You no longer have to huddle with hand-held power tools on stools, lay out tools, fasteners, screwdrivers, taps and tape measures on all available shelves and nooks around and look for them, forgetting where you put them - everything is in one place and at hand.
Mounted the tool panel. Solid, made of 21 mm plywood.
4 corners 50x50x4 plus 21 mm plywood plus 16 bolts 8x40 equals hanging tens of kilograms of tools without fear of breaking anything
I made the fronts for the drawers from the remains of 21-gauge plywood.
That's all.
The dream workbench is ready. Some things came out a bit crooked in places, but I'm very pleased with the result.
The net weight of the workbench exceeded 200 kilograms. The tabletop area is 1.65 square meters, the toolbar area is 2.2 square meters. The total volume of the left and right cabinets is almost the same cubic meter. The special feature of the workbench is that you can sit at it while working with TIG, and the tabletop covered with a 4mm sheet of metal is not afraid mechanical damage. Spacious shelves, drawers and panels allow me to conveniently store almost all the tools I have, providing convenient, quick access to them.
Like this one homemade workbench dreams.
I think my great-grandchildren will also work on it.
P.S. And after a little modification you will get an excellent makeup table)) -816- http://gazeta-v.ru/catalog/detail/192_vizazhist_i_fotograf/15464_grimernyy_stol_svoimi_rukami/
Well, to put the finishing touches on the project, a few more photos.
The screws are screwed in and out quickly and easily (if you have a screwdriver, of course).
I'll finish it over time spanners, holders for drills and screwdrivers, a holder for paper towels, and additional lighting. Luckily there are two square meters there is room to turn around. I made an awesome thing. Satisfied like an elephant.
Firstly, the small vice could not withstand the load and burst.
Instead, a more powerful vice is installed. On one side they have a five-pointed star cast, on the other - the numbers 1958 - probably the year of manufacture. So they are 56 years old? I hope they last me as long. In general, a good vice is the pride of a master.
The photo shows that the tabletop does not protrude much beyond the dimensions of the table. Therefore, when attaching a vice to bolts, it will not be possible to crawl from below to tighten the nut. That's what I intended. The vice and sharpener are secured to the tabletop using anchor bolts. Looks neat and holds up to death.
Secondly, it turned out that the deep drawers in the right cabinet are not very convenient. It would have been better to make them smaller. I will come up with some kind of organizers inside them.
The rest worked out great thing. All tools are in one place, visible and always ready. There is also room to spread out on the large tabletop.
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If the main tools of a blacksmith are a hammer and an anvil, then for a carpenter there is nothing “more familiar” than his workbench. For people who work with wood, it can at the same time be a cutting platform and an assembly table, a stop and stand, a device for storing tools and even, if you want, a small carpentry machine, and sometimes a means of earning money. This article tells you how to make woodworking tables with your own hands. The instructions, photographs and drawings presented in it will help even a beginner to install this structure.
Osya member of FORUMHOUSE
First of all, after building a workshop, you need to make yourself a table. A table like a workbench, essentially. This is a table for work - fitting, assembling small things made of wood (stools, shelves, etc.). I'll call it an assembly table.
In fact, the second name for a workbench is “assembly”. But, as you already understand, its purpose goes far beyond assembly operations. Therefore, the design of a multifunctional workbench in a carpentry can be quite intricate (see drawing below), and its development (in the absence of experience) can be spent as much time as it takes to design the carpentry workshop itself.
General description of the carpentry workbench
At the heart of any carpentry workbench, regardless of the number of operations that are supposed to be performed with its help, there is always an ordinary wooden table. It is on it that the master will do carpentry, drill parts, process surfaces, assemble wooden trinkets into one complex design and surprise others with your skills.
A good solid table is the basis. And everything else - vices, clamps, boxes with tools and fasteners - all these are constant attributes of the most useful carpentry workshop.
Workbench project
To make a carpentry workbench with your own hands, you must first understand its parameters that are optimal for you.
The first and most important thing you should pay attention to when developing a project for a future workbench is its height. After all, you will have to work for him for a long time. And you can get tired standing at a workbench that is too high or too low in no time.
The dimensions of the workbench for work are chosen in such a way that you can work while standing at full height and without slouching. For a person of average height, the height of the table should be within 70...90 cm. But it is better to focus on the features of your own anatomy. It is optimal if the upper cut of the legs is at the level of your lowered arms. When a few centimeters are added to this height (the thickness of the workbench lid), you will understand that working while standing at such a table is a pleasure.
Optimal height carpenter's table for standing work for a person of average height - 70-90 cm.
It is better to make the workbench cover, as well as the working surface, from solid wood or plywood. There are people who use for these purposes particle board materials, lungs chipboard sheets etc. We strongly do not recommend that you follow their example. This is a bad design - after all, the loads on the surface of the structure can be quite noticeable, and particle board under such conditions it will quickly fail.
Osya member of FORUMHOUSE
5 years ago I received 2 sheets of plywood as a gift from a neighbor. It was decided to use it in the construction of a workbench. The size of the workbench was determined immediately - it was a pity to cut such a sheet. Experience has shown that there are no extra centimeters at the table. The height was determined by the height of the palms from the floor and amounted to 850 mm.
Ideally, a homemade workbench should have a special tray on the lid for storing tools and wood pieces involved in the work, as well as special holes (sockets) for wedges and combs. Using wedges and (or) combs, parts and workpieces will be secured to the table surface. It is on the cover that auxiliary clamps (vises) should be mounted to fix the processed lumber.
The dimensions of the workbench may vary depending on the size of your workshop. But, as practice shows, the optimal dimensions of the lid are 700 mm wide and 2000 mm long.
The supports (legs) of the workbench can be made from wooden beams 120*120 mm, no more. This will be quite enough to ensure that the structure is stable and does not become loose under the influence of brute physical force.
Workbench installation
As practice shows, making a workbench is not difficult. Installing a workbench is no different from assembling an ordinary one wooden table. Vertical supports are fastened together using vertical boards and self-tapping screws. The working surface should also be secured to the supports using self-tapping screws.
When assembling a workbench, you should avoid using nails to connect parts. After all, this can subsequently lead to rapid loosening of the workbench and even distortion of its supporting frame.
In order to save space in the carpentry workshop, some craftsmen make a homemade workbench folding. It is mounted on the wall. This type of installation means that carpentry work will only be carried out when necessary.
CartmanSr FORUMHOUSE member
In the past, in cramped conditions, I had a bench board - laminated board MDF 24 mm thick, with dimensions 1200x2200. It had minor modifications, such as: holes and grooves for fastening hand router and circulars, a flush-mounted metal frame with threaded holes for fastening rulers and mustache nuts at the bottom located at the fastening points hand plane And drilling machine from a drill with a rocker arm. The tabletop was attached to the wall on three hinges. During non-working hours, it was raised vertically and fixed to the wall. Under the board, also on hinges, are two triangles from the same board. She laid herself on them while working.
This design is an excellent way out of a situation in which inner space workshop is very limited. But such a carpentry table does not withstand intense loads well, and it can only be made independently in exceptional cases.
After you have mounted the frame and working surface of the product, a simple carpentry table can be considered ready. But in order for it to turn into a full-fledged workbench and begin carpentry work, its functionality needs to be slightly expanded by adding specialized equipment to the design.
Taking into account the special specifics of the activity, the carpenter’s workbench must be equipped with appropriate equipment. And if necessary tools always at hand, this is an excellent indicator. And they will help you correctly arrange devices, fastening materials and power tools. structural elements the workbench itself.
Rear and front clamps
Rear and side (front) screw clamps are those elements without which no workbench simply can fulfill its main purpose. Therefore, this part of the structure should be built first.
The rear clamp is designed to hold lumber while planing. As shown in the diagram, its vice jaws move along the front edge of the workbench, allowing you to lead screws securely fasten the workpiece.
The side screw clamp (which, due to its special location, is called the front clamp by many) has the same purpose as the rear clamp. And these elements differ from each other only in their location. Here are the drawings of a carpentry table for making it yourself. FORUMHOUSE member
The fact of the matter is that in the design of a workbench, a lower shelf is absolutely necessary (especially on a mobile workbench). We use a lot of tools and have nowhere to put them outside while working. And it’s also inconvenient in the workshop - climbing back and forth on cabinets and shelves. Fold the same tool 10 times per hour...
The underbench can be adapted for storing power tools. For greater convenience, you can install cabinets and shelves here for small parts, fixtures and hand tools.
Having made a workbench that has all the listed elements, you can begin your carpentry activities. In progress further work you may need additional accessories. But each master will be able to guess for himself what options to use and what elements to add.
About the one from which you can later craft various products on your carpentry workbench, you can learn from our previous article. Acquainted with practical ideas concerning, you can in the appropriate section of our forum. Any FORUMHOUSE visitor can become familiar with it by visiting a special topic created for discussion.
Every home craftsman can make a carpentry workbench with his own hands. This work takes a lot of time, but the benefits from a well-equipped workplace outweigh both labor costs and investments in building materials. In this article you will find full information for self-construction of workbenches for carpentry work.
Carpentry workbench – workplace optimization
Convenient working surface will be useful to any master. And the carpenter needs an equipped work area more than other specialists. After all, he will have to tinker with large-sized workpieces, the length of which reaches 3 meters, and in this case he cannot do without a well-designed work area. Even a simplified folding workbench allows you to process timber or boards and assemble products from the resulting blanks. A large table top with stops makes it possible to fix the lumber in any position, processing not only the surfaces, but also the edges of the timber or board. A special vice will help secure workpieces during sawing, drilling or connecting several elements.
In addition, in the drawers and shelves of the workbench you can store parts of future products, tools and all sorts of household items. Moreover, not only a wooden carpentry version, but also a metal workbench assembled on the basis of steel corners can be turned into convenient storage. At the same time, a craftsman who is not too familiar with construction can make a carpentry workbench with his own hands, organizing and optimizing the space in the workroom. For this you will need general drawings or understanding the workbench structure, Construction Materials And step-by-step instruction for assembly. You will find all this below in the text.
Types and design of workbenches for carpenters
In modern carpentry Only three workbench design schemes are used. Firstly, the mobile option is a portable structure that can even be installed on a balcony. This model will also be useful for those craftsmen who want to obtain universal workbench for metalwork and carpentry work. The main advantage of this option is its small size, the main disadvantage is small area storage You can’t put all the tools in such a table.
Secondly, a stationary workbench is an option for a full-fledged workshop. To place this model you need a spacious room, but it will fit into large garage. This workbench can be either wooden or steel - it is possible to assemble any structure, because there is no need to move it. The main advantage of the model is its wide functionality, coupled with ample storage space. The main disadvantage is the dimensions and the need for large volume building materials.
Third, modular design– workbenches of this type occupy an intermediate position between stationary and mobile options. The model structure allows you to extend and shorten the carpentry table, legs and other elements. Therefore, the main advantage of this option is the combination of optimal dimensions and functionality. And the main disadvantage is the complicated design. Building a modular metal workbench with your own hands is not so easy, and you may have problems with wood.
Eventually optimal model For self-construction should be recognized precisely stationary option, since mobile does not provide all the benefits and modular is too difficult during assembly. Moreover, regardless of belonging to one of the varieties, any workbench contains the following structural elements:
- Support (bed, frame) - a system of vertical and horizontal beams that hold the tabletop, workpieces and tools.
- Working surface (tabletop) - in the language of professionals, this element is called a workbench board. All the necessary grooves and recesses for stops are made in it, which are useful for fixing the workpieces being processed. Therefore, such a board must be massive and reliable.
- The front vise and box are essentially huge clamping blocks that compete with clamps. They fix the workpieces at an angle to the plane of the work table, pressing them against the side edges of the table top. Moreover, a folding workbench has only one vice, while a stationary one has at least a couple of clamping blocks.
- Shelves are storage places that are located under the countertop.
And all these parts, with the exception of some metal clamping block parts (screws and nuts), are assembled from wood, which simplifies the selection of structural materials for building a workbench.
What materials are needed for assembly - getting ready for work
You will be able to build a carpentry or metal workbench with your own hands only if you get the following materials:
- Plywood sheet with a thickness of 18-20 millimeters and total dimensions of 2.5 × 1.25 meters. Moreover, try to choose a perfectly flat sheet, without bubbles or dips on the surface - it will go on the countertop.
- Beam 10×10 and 6×6 centimeters. The frame will be assembled from these elements, therefore, we need about 4 meters of “ten” (for the legs and crossbars) and at least three meters of “six” (for the strengthening elements). At the same time, try to choose timber without knots and cracks.
- Boards 2 meters long - they will come in handy when assembling the tabletop. And upon completion of them you can.
In addition, we will need the following tools: a drill with feather and conventional drills, a circular saw(disk), clamps, glue Moment(for wood), square, level, bolts with nuts and furniture screws with corrosion protection. After all these materials and tools have been purchased and taken to the place of placement and assembly, you can build a workbench out of wood with your own hands, based on our step-by-step instructions.
DIY assembly - step-by-step instructions
Before you do it, try to read these instructions from beginning to end, going over in your head all the assembly steps described below. If you understand the entire procedure, then self-production workbench will take up a minimum of your personal time. Moreover, our step-by-step instructions are designed for people with minimal experience in carpentry. Well, the assembly process itself looks like this.
At the first stage we assemble the table. To do this, we shorten the plywood sheet to 1.52 meters with a circular saw and divide it into two parts. As a result, two blanks with dimensions of 1.52 × 0.61 meters remain in the hands of the master. They will serve as the basis for the countertop. And the remaining part 0.98 × 1.25 will be useful to us in the future. Next stage– gluing a solid workbench table from two plywood blanks. To do this, you need to lubricate their surfaces with glue and, folding the plywood boards, tighten them with clamps, and you can put a 30-kilogram weight on the central part. Moreover, three 1.5-meter boards need to be placed under the clamps, ensuring a tight fit when placed along the long edge of the sheet.
In addition, you need to take into account the fact that when gluing, the plywood sheets must be connected with their convex sides (when overlapping each other), otherwise the entire array will unfold into an arc, which is undesirable. Next we move on to strengthening the 36mm laminated wood. To do this, we need to cut strips 15 centimeters wide from the remains of the plywood panel and glue them around the perimeter, with reverse side countertops. The result should be a table 54 millimeters thick, consisting of three 18 mm layers of plywood. Moreover, the amplifier strips will play the role of stiffeners.
After this, we cut the array to dimensions of 1.5 × 0.6 meters. This step will allow you to trim the ends, eliminating overlays and protrusions that formed during the assembly of the tabletop from three layers of plywood. The trimming itself is carried out with a circular saw at low tool feed. The circular saw must be moved very slowly along the plywood, otherwise you will get torn edges. The next stage is the assembly of the vertical elements of the frame. To do this, we saw a 10×10 centimeter beam into four 0.9 meter long sections. We get vertical supports. And as the legs (the lower tie between the vertical beams) and the drawer (the upper tie) we will use a 6x6 centimeter beam, cutting out the corresponding grooves in the legs. The places where the legs and drawers are attached should be coated with glue and reinforced with bolts or self-tapping screws.
Next, we must install vertical supports at the location of the workbench and assemble the entire frame, tightening them with horizontal longitudinal ties. They can be made from 6x6 cm timber, secured in a tenon or overlap, with bolts or self-tapping screws.
We will lay shelves made of 1.5-meter boards on the lower screeds, and a tabletop on the upper ones. Therefore, before attaching the ties, we must trace the vertical and horizontal of the assembled frame. Otherwise, the table will be tilted. The tabletop is fastened to the frame using 8 mm self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be recessed into the holes drilled feather drill. Before fastening, the table is pulled to the upper longitudinal ties and drawers with clamps.
This completes the assembly of the table, and we can move on to installing the vice. Moreover, not everyone can make a carpenter's vice for a workbench with their own hands. Therefore, we suggest that beginners pay attention to ready-made models, the installation of which occurs in the following sequence: we screw the fixed jaw of the vice to the end of the table, and fasten the threaded element to it. We pass two threaded guides through the holes in the movable jaw and screw them into the fixed jaw. We insert handles into the heads of the guides; by rotating them, you can move the moving part of the vice towards the stationary one.
After completing the installation stage of the vice, you can use the workbench at your discretion. Moreover, round or rectangular holes for stops, you can cut them into the tabletop as needed, arranging them as you see fit.
A home handyman who prefers to do all the housework himself needs a convenient and safe workplace. The best option would be a workbench. Thanks to this simple design, the work will be significantly accelerated, since the master will work in comfortable conditions and all the necessary tools and devices will be at hand.
Figure 1. The carpentry workbench is a reliable comfortable table, necessary for processing parts.
Design features
A carpentry workbench is a durable, comfortable table designed for processing various parts (Fig. 1). Its tabletop must be durable and large enough to accommodate additional devices: a vice, a milling cutter, a circular saw and other devices. To make small tools accessible, there should be drawers or shelves nearby to store them.
Before you build a workbench, you need to decide on its design and dimensions. One of the main parameters is the height of the table. When performing work, the master should be comfortable and should not experience any discomfort. To determine the height, you need to stand up straight and bend your elbows, mentally leaning on an imaginary table. Height between with bent arms and the floor will be the desired quantity.
In addition, you need to decide on the configuration of the workbench, the width and length of the tabletop. The width should not exceed 80-100 cm. This will allow you to easily reach the opposite edge, where shelves for tools can be organized. The length will depend on the area of the workshop and the number of devices that are planned to be fixed to the surface. It is better to equip the space under the workbench with a cabinet or drawers to store Consumables and other items.
It is also important to decide whether there will be a workbench stationary structure or mobile, which can be disassembled and moved to another location. If a mobile version is being built, then it would be more rational to make the structure lighter, using material of less thickness. Also, the mobile version should have folding legs or a removable tabletop.
The place where the workbench will stand should be bright. To ensure additional lighting and equipment operation, it is necessary to provide electrical sockets and switches. Electric wires located near the machine must be enclosed in a corrugated pipe or a special box.
Preparing for work
Before starting work, you need to draw up a diagram future design, on which indicate all the dimensions and indicate the places of fastening. This will help you calculate correctly required amount material and not make mistakes during assembly. To make the frame of a future workbench, it is best to use wooden beam. For legs, you should choose blanks measuring at least 100x70 or 100x80 mm; lintels can be made from larger thin material, for example, 100x50 mm. For the tabletop, smooth boards are used, the thickness of which is at least 50 mm. It is necessary to choose hardwood: oak, beech, maple. Then the workbench will be strong and stable.
To make your own carpentry workbench, you will need the following materials and tools:
- Wooden beam.
- Boards.
- Bolts, self-tapping screws.
- Glue.
- Wood saw.
- Hammer.
- Mallet.
- Drill and drill bits.
- Sandpaper or sanding machine.
- Chisel.
- Construction level and square.
Construction stages
The workbench is constructed in two stages. First, the frame is assembled, and then the tabletop is installed.
All work is carried out in strict accordance with the drawing. Each connection is checked with a level and square.
Figure 2. Workbench frame clamp diagram.
The base of the structure is a frame made of beams (Fig. 2). To make it as rigid as possible, a horizontal jumper is installed between the legs at a height of 40-50 cm from the floor, and a drawer along the length. Subsequently, they can become the basis for tool boxes. The upper part of the frame is strengthened with diagonal jumpers. To fasten the parts together, a tongue-and-groove connection with preliminary gluing is used. Where such a connection is not possible, you can use self-tapping screws.
If the workbench is being built in the mobile version, then support frame assembled using metal corners. If you do not plan to move the structure, the frame can be screwed to the wall and to the floor. This will make it stronger and more stable.
Figure 3. Assembling the workbench.
For the tabletop, a solid canvas or separate boards can be used. If you use boards, you need to carefully adjust them to each other. There should be no cracks or irregularities on the surface. The dimensions of the tabletop should exceed the base by 10-15 cm.
To connect the boards together and attach them to the base, you will need 3 bars, the length of which is equal to the width of the tabletop. They are located across the boards (Fig. 3). Grooves should be made on the base into which these bars will fit. Metal corners are used to secure the tabletop to the base.
The surface must be thoroughly sanded using sandpaper or grinder. Then it should be covered with drying oil.
Second life of an old table
Do convenient workbench You can do it yourself from any material, for example, from an old table. Any design is suitable for this, the main condition is that it is not too old. Before as old table will start new life, it needs to be prepared. All fasteners must be inspected and tightened. If cracks or chips are found on the supporting frame, it is necessary to install metal plates in these places. This technique will add more strength to the table parts. In addition, the wood must be treated with special antiseptics, preventing its damage.
When assembling the workbench, you need to take into account that its surface should be thick enough so that it does not break when struck.
After preparatory work you can assemble a workbench. The surface of the countertop must be durable to withstand the severity of any work. To construct it, you need to choose boards that are at least 3 cm thick. They need to be installed sequentially on the table surface and secured with self-tapping screws. The boards must be fitted tightly to each other so that there are no gaps on the surface.
The dimensions of the new tabletop should exceed the old base by 15-20 cm. This allowance is necessary for convenient and reliable installation of additional equipment.
For storing tools and other necessary materials you need to make boxes. They should be made strong, with convenient systems and reliable fittings. The number of boxes and their sizes depend on the desire of the master and the size of the workbench. They need to be installed so that they do not interfere with work.
Arrangement of the workplace
You can attach the necessary devices for work to the finished workbench. To install the vice, you need to prepare recesses on the table top, and with bottom side provide a plywood lining. Their vertical plate should be in the same plane with the surface of the table. The vice must be applied to the surface and the fastening points must be marked. When using bolts, the holes for their heads must be pre-processed with a milling cutter. This will cause the bolt heads to sink into the surface.
In addition to the vice, stops can be installed on the workbench. It is best to use rectangular ones that can be adjusted in height. They will allow you to process various parts, securely fixing them. To install stops, holes must be provided on the tabletop. Anything can be installed on the workbench turning equipment, but mostly it is used as a regular flat surface, which is convenient to work with.