How to lay foam blocks with your own hands: detailed instructions with video. How to lay walls from foam blocks How to lay foam concrete blocks

Foam block is one of the most versatile building materials. But at the same time, you need to know how to lay foam blocks correctly. During its production, a foaming agent is added to the mixture of sand, cement and water.
It forms empty cells inside the block. Its properties are quite unique: lightweight, environmentally friendly, long service life, able to withstand about 5–7 hours at high temperature open flame. It is easy and convenient to work with it, it has good thermal insulation properties, and the low cost will be affordable for anyone who wants to build a house with their own hands. His “relative” is often used internally composition - aerated concrete. These two building materials are often confused with each other. Aerated concrete differs in that it is made exclusively using an autoclave, where hydrogen bubbles are released at high temperature and pressure.

Features of laying foam blocks

Before laying out the first row, you need to know several important aspects:

You can press the blocks together using glue and cement mortar;
The seams between the foam blocks should not have voids;
Reinforcement of masonry is a prerequisite;

Still, laying the foam block on glue will save both time and material. When laying blocks on a mixture of cement and sand, it is necessary to initially wet them so that the solution dries evenly. Then the masonry will be strong, compared to laying with glue. You can use either imported or domestic glue.

How to lay foam blocks

In the first row of laying foam blocks in mandatory a cement mixture should be used. The foundation is ready, which means you can lay an even layer of cement-sand mortar (about 2 cm) on it, then lay down a layer of waterproofing. This can be hydroisol, rubemast, bikrost. Second layer cement mixture applied over the waterproofing and the first row of foam blocks is laid. Aerated concrete is also laid according to these rules. A strong foundation directly affects the smooth geometry of the walls. If you are building a house with your own hands, you should know that the laying must begin from the corner of the future house. To avoid voids, it is necessary that the glue or cement mixture evenly covers the surface.

Reinforcement

To increase the strength and reliability of the structure, reinforcement should be used. To prevent the weight on the wall from creating cracks at the seams, reinforcement or wire mesh (4-5 mm) should be used every 4 rows. For it, potholes are specially cut out with a grinder or wall chaser. This is easy to do, just like aerated concrete, foam block is easy to process. It is important to know that if the distance from corner to corner of a blank wall is 3 m, additional reinforcement is performed.

Final stage

You can check the wall for unevenness using a level or a stretched cord and a plumb line. Can be used laser level or level. The masonry is completed by special monolithic U-blocks with reinforced metal fittings. The thickness of the belt should be at least 10-15 cm. Construction with your own hands can be continued after 25-30 days, after the concrete has completely hardened.

Subtleties when laying foam blocks:

The first thing you need to pay attention to is the foundation. If it is to be mounted from concrete blocks, then a reinforced concrete belt must be attached to all this, or the foundation must be filled with a solid monolith;
For laying on glue and cement mixture, pay attention to the geometry of the blocks, they must be even and the same size;
The glue does not carry any special warnings, the main thing is that it has good adhesive properties;

If it is necessary to use a reinforcing belt, it is worth considering additional thermal insulation, since without it, foam blocks have better performance.

To avoid heat loss, when using a cement mixture, foam blocks should be laid in two rows, thereby closing the vertical seam. If you are using glue then this is optional.

It’s easy to figure out how to lay foam blocks or aerated concrete. By following all the above tips, you can easily build a house with your own hands, and experienced builders They will tell you that laying a house out of foam blocks is not only profitable, but also much easier than, for example, building a house out of brick. Aerated concrete is also laid according to the same principles. The main advantage that attracts many people to build from foam blocks is the ease of construction with their own hands. It is enough to erect load-bearing walls and one supporting partition, and you can design the space as you like, provided that the foundation is reliable. Now everyone knows how to lay foam blocks correctly, now all that’s left is a little work to do.

Correct construction of foam concrete walls and partitions comes down to fulfilling a number of conditions: accuracy of calculations, selection of foam blocks of the required density and appropriate adhesive composition + adherence to masonry technology.

The latter is of decisive importance.

The speed and quality of building a house depends on how correctly the first row of foam blocks is laid.

Where to start laying foam blocks - two recommendations

provide good waterproofing foundation. Despite the fact that foam concrete has a low moisture absorption rate, waterproofing will preserve the integrity of the material longer;

maintain the row horizontality. We will describe this part of the work step by step in the form of instructions for beginners without construction experience, because... It is the first row that sets the tone for the main construction.

The specifics of laying the first and then subsequent rows of foam blocks depend on the purpose and function of the wall. From this position there are:

load-bearing walls (internal or external, in single or multi-story construction);
curtain walls(interior partitions).

1. Laying an external wall made of foam block

Foundation preparation

The foam block is laid on a flat surface; leveling with glue is allowed, but only if the height difference is no more than 30 mm. If there are horizontal violations, it is recommended to level the foundation by applying a layer of sand-cement mixture, and then insulate it.

Preparing the foam block

Laying begins with preparing the blocks. Since the foam block does not have high accuracy of geometric dimensions, it is recommended to bring them to working condition. To do this you need:

eliminate irregularities that may affect the quality of the masonry;
remove hangnails. To do this, you can use a grater or a drywall plane;
eliminate chips.

If too large voids have formed on the surface of the foam block or there are large chips, it is better to leave such a block for trimming.

Laying the first row of foam blocks

The first blocks are laid in the corners. What angle to start laying from also matters. The first foam block is installed at the angle that is the highest in relation to the others. The layer of mortar under this block will be much thinner than under the foam blocks in other corners. If the foundation is level, the choice is arbitrary.

Corner or, as the craftsmen call it, “lighthouse” foam blocks serve as a guide for further work. Therefore, their installation is a labor-intensive and critical step.

Note. When installing the corner block, make sure that it protrudes above the base by a distance of 30-50 mm. Such an indentation will prevent the accumulation of water at low tide of the base, and it will remain dry. This means that the masonry on which the bottom row is based will not be subject to destruction.

Adjustments to the installed foam block are made with a rubber mallet.

A mooring cord is installed on the lighthouse blocks. The cord can be secured to the block using a nail. It should be said that foam concrete does not hold hardware well, but in this case, the nail will perform its function. If the distance between corner blocks is more than 6 meters, it is recommended to install intermediate beacons. This will prevent the guide rope from sagging. Experts recommend installing beacons at the intersection of external and internal load-bearing walls.

It is more convenient to use a laser level for these purposes.

Foam concrete blocks of the first row are laid only on cement-sand mortar. The solution can be applied in two ways: apply to the previous row of blocks and place the dry block on the glue, or apply glue to the surface of the block. The second option is rarely used, but is irreplaceable when part of the block is inserted into a narrow gap in the masonry.

The solution is applied using a notched trowel or carriage. A trowel can also be used, but it does not allow maintaining the specified thickness of the mixture, which leads to its overuse or the appearance of places without mixture.

Why do you need to use a cement-sand mixture for the first row? In order to level out height differences due to a denser overlay layer.

The masonry mortar must be applied not only to the horizontal surface of the row, but also to the side walls of the block. The vertical seam is also filled with mortar. Ignoring this recommendation is fraught with the appearance of voids in the masonry, which will allow moisture to accumulate in the joint space and, in frost, lead to the destruction of the seam or block.

The recommended thickness of the horizontal seam when laying foam blocks on the mortar should not exceed 10-15 mm. (depending on the type of block), vertical seam - 8-10 mm. Naturally, you can lay out the first row using a special adhesive mixture. In this case, the thickness of the joints will be determined by the recommendation of the mixture manufacturer. But from the point of view of the economics of building a house, such a solution would be impractical.

Note. If you wet the block, the adhesion of its surface to the adhesive mixture will increase. This recommendation is especially relevant for work performed in the warm season.

Sometimes craftsmen save time and solution and do not fill the vertical seam with glue. In this case, you need to carefully seal the seams from the front and back (inner) sides, leaving the middle empty. If you plan to plaster a house made of foam concrete, the vertical joints do not need to be filled at all.

If necessary, the foam block is cut to the required size. Moreover, the block is less than 50 mm thick. looks ugly, you can eliminate this gap by varying the thickness of the masonry joint. The installed foam block can be adjusted over a certain period of time (determined by the type of adhesive mixture). Adjustments are made using a rubber mallet. Further elimination of unevenness is possible only by using a plane or plasterboard float.

Note. The first row of blocks must be reinforced.

Laying the second row of foam blocks

The second and subsequent rows of blocks are also laid, starting from the corners with periodic measurement of deviations. In this case, the mooring cord moves one block higher and sets the exact direction of the masonry. For these rows it is advisable to use glue mixture for foam concrete. Due to the fact that less glue is consumed, certain cost and time savings are achieved. The block of the second row is laid on the block of the first row as tightly as possible so that the solution is squeezed out, which is removed with a trowel.

It should be noted that it is impossible to place a foam block on a block with the seams crossing at an angle of 90°. This weakens the masonry. To perform a dressing, you need to move the foam block a distance of at least 25% of its width. Ideally, the dressing is done on half the block.

Foam block masonry bonding systems

In practice, a house made of foam concrete can be laid out in either one or two rows. For example, a foam block with a size of 200x300x600 mm is too narrow for load-bearing walls, and a wider one is heavy and inconvenient to work with. This automatically leads to the laying of foam blocks in two rows with the obligatory bandaging of the rows. It is this that holds the blocks together and ensures the strength of the entire masonry.

Options for double ligation of foam blocks are shown in the diagram

When bonding, a row of foam blocks is periodically laid out, which are placed perpendicular to the main masonry. If the size of the block exceeds the width of the wall, it is trimmed.

In die tying, the rows are laid parallel to each other and connected to each other using a flexible connection.

Sometimes, simultaneously with the laying of the wall, it is also finished with brick, then it is advisable to reinforce both materials using metal mesh. Or make a bonded dressing with a brick.

Laying corners from foam blocks

The corners also need bandaging. The corner laying of the foam block is carried out in the manner shown in the figure, where 1 is a foam concrete block, 2 is a seam. The main requirement is that the masonry seam must be located exactly in the middle of the block. Displacement is acceptable, but this affects the quality of construction of the house.

2. Laying an internal (load-bearing) wall made of foam block

Let us note right away that we are talking about an internal load-bearing wall that is laid on the foundation, and not about a partition. To connect two foam concrete walls together, you can use several techniques:

dressing to the full depth of the foam block. In this case, the block seems to be wedged into the masonry outer wall fully;

dressing on part of the block. Usually the block is “settled” in the place prepared for it. The depth of wedging the block into the masonry of the outer wall is 150-200 mm. depending on the width of the block;

end-to-end dressing, i.e. dressing is not performed, and the foam block is installed flush against the block forming the outer wall.

The experts are unanimous in the opinion that the first option is the most preferable. When using the other two options, additional reinforcement should be performed (with reinforcement inserted into the masonry of the outer wall) every 3-4 rows.

3. Laying partitions from foam blocks - technology

The construction of partitions from foam blocks is possible both at the construction stage and in an already functioning house. In the first case, the role of the base will be played by the foundation, in the second by the floor (concrete or wood).

Dimensions of foam blocks for partitions

To construct partitions, you can use foam blocks of the D300-500 brand, 100 and 200 mm thick. The choice of thickness of the foam concrete block directly depends on the purpose of the partition. If it is designed to separate a heated and unheated area, you should choose a thicker (wider) block.

Technology for installing foam concrete partitions

the surface of the floor and walls is cleared of debris and primed;

Markings are made on the floor, wall and ceiling. To do this, use a rope or draw an even strip with chalk (marker). Moreover, you first need to correctly mark the ceiling, and only then use a plumb line to transfer the markers to the floor. This way the wall will be perfectly flat;

Advice. For marking, it is convenient to use coated (painting) cord.

the floor surface is covered with roofing felt, it will play the role of a sound insulator for partitions or a special roll sound insulator (sometimes this stage is skipped);

pieces of reinforcement are installed into the floor surface. Their purpose is to support the first row of blocks;

a cement-sand mortar or adhesive mixture is applied to part of the floor and wall (in accordance with the size of the foam block);

The first block is installed close to the wall. Its installation is checked by level;

the installation of the first block of the second row also has its own specifics, it lies in the fact that the foam block needs to be “tied” to the wall. To do this, you can drill holes in the wall and insert reinforcement between the wall and a row of blocks. The length of the reinforcement is 200-250 mm. It goes into the wall half its length. Or you can use flexible reinforcement using, for example, an EC bracket for attaching a profile under drywall;

the second row of blocks must be installed with a mixing of at least 25% of the block width;

reinforcement of partitions made of foam blocks is mandatory: the three lower rows of masonry, as well as every second (if the thickness of the foam block is 100 mm) or every third (if the thickness exceeds 100 mm);

if you plan to make two partitions at an angle to each other, it is better to think about the reinforcement in a timely manner. To do this, you can carry out construction at the same time or leave part of the reinforcement rod in the first row for laying the second row;

because the interior wall is not load-bearing, then between the ceiling and last row foam blocks provide a thermal gap of 10-15 mm. Its purpose is to level out possible shrinkage of the house. The gap is sealed with polyurethane foam. Foam is applied to both sides of the wall.

Note. With a gap not exceeding 50 mm, craftsmen advise not to trim the block, because it is difficult to cut off 35-40 mm of foam concrete (despite the fact that it cuts perfectly), but to lay polystyrene foam or dense foam between the wall and the ceiling

Laying foam blocks with your own hands - video

4. Construction of openings in a foam concrete house

Window or door openings, arches, columns, all these elements are typical for private construction. The use of foam concrete does not impose any restrictions on the arrangement of such structures. Moreover, in the place where according to the plan there should be an opening, it is not necessary to initially make even masonry. It is quite possible to leave protrusions on half of the foam block, which can then be easily cut off with a saw.

How to make an opening in a wall from foam blocks

The opening at the top or along the entire perimeter is made using ordinary foam blocks. They are laid on a base, which can be used as:

metal corners. The width of the corner is determined by the width of the foam block, and should be at least 2/3, or preferably half, of its width. For example, with a block width of 100 mm, you need to use a 40x40 corner. The corner is inserted into the foam concrete wall at a distance equal to at least the length of one block;

bar reinforced concrete lintels. It is worth noting that such a jumper is a continuous cold bridge and requires additional insulation;

removable formwork for foam blocks, into which reinforcement is laid and concrete is poured. The formwork is dismantled after the concrete has hardened. Supports must be installed under the formwork to support the weight of the structure. The supports are removed one month after completion of the work. During this time, the foam concrete lintel will gain the necessary strength. In the future, the strength of concrete will increase, which makes it ideal material to form openings.

The formwork can be installed for both straight and round openings.

Note. When the opening width is more than 1,200 mm, it is recommended to form the opening only using removable formwork. This eliminates the possibility of it sagging under the load of the house.

U-shaped aerated concrete block. The tray block must be reinforced. Installation of the U-block is allowed only if the house is to be finished externally.

5. Installation of floors in a house made of foam blocks

After laying the last row of foam concrete, it is time to form a reinforcing belt. The construction of an armored belt involves the manufacture of removable formwork, followed by reinforcement and pouring of concrete. The formwork is installed so that the width of the belt is equal to the width of the foam concrete wall, and the height reaches 200-300 mm (depending on what will be installed on the armored belt). The associated reinforcement is placed in the formwork and filled with concrete. The reinforcing belt, like the foundation, is made around the entire perimeter of the house from foam concrete, including the internal load-bearing walls.

Note. Filling the entire belt is done at one time. The concrete is covered with a film to ensure even hardening.

Hollow reinforced concrete slabs, wooden floor beams or a mauerlat on which the rafter system is mounted are installed on the reinforced belt.

sand-cement mixture or glue for foam concrete is prepared in small portions. The fastening (adhesive) characteristics of the solutions correspond to those stated within 1.5-2.5 hours after production (mixing);

the installed block can be adjusted within 5-15 minutes. (depending on the glue manufacturer). If you are laying foam blocks with your own hands, then it is better to use the solution whose adjustment time is longer. In practice, this means that the work will take longer, but the likelihood of damaging the masonry is less. After all, the foam block, provided that good glue is used, can be dismantled (knocked out) only with damage;

The right time for laying foam blocks is spring and autumn. It is optimal when the surface of the block has a temperature of +5 to +25 °C, otherwise you need to use masonry mortars with antifreeze additives;

To simplify the laying, foam blocks need to be moistened. Thus, dust is removed from the surface of the block, which increases the adhesion of cellular concrete;

It is better to apply the glue with a notched trowel;

To level the block, use a rubber hammer, and after the glue has hardened, use a plane or grater;

each row is checked with a level and plumb line;

When reinforcing the rows, the reinforcement is laid only with glue, thus eliminating voids under the reinforcement.

Note. You can begin further finishing the foam concrete house with plaster a month after the walls are erected. This is due to the significant shrinkage rate of the foam block cottage - up to 3 mm per 1 linear meter.

The cost of laying foam blocks per m3 and per piece

the price for laying foam block partitions starts from 230 rubles/sq.m. The cost is determined by the complexity of the masonry and the configuration of the wall and openings;

laying load-bearing (external or internal) walls made of foam concrete will cost the customer much more.

Examples of calculating the cost of masonry are given in the table

Conclusion

As can be seen from the article, you can lay a foam block with your own hands, even for a beginner who does not have practical experience in construction. Due to the size of the foam block, the work will progress quite quickly. The main thing is to lay foam blocks correctly, in compliance with technology, this guarantees that the house will last without overhaul for a long time.

Laying foam blocks is a very responsible task. Improperly laid material loses its quality over time and may crumble. In particular, in conditions high humidity The foam block loses its shape, so the walls must be properly waterproofed.

Such masonry does not tolerate any foundation deformations, so many experts recommend creating a foundation in the form monolithic slab, which can be either continuous reinforced concrete structure, and laid out from concrete blocks. In this article we will look at how to correctly lay foam blocks and what is the best place to lay foam blocks on in order to avoid harmful deformations.

About foam concrete blocks

This material can be produced in two ways:

Molding method. The foam mixture is poured into special molds, where it hardens to form a durable block. Laying of such material is carried out exclusively on cement-sand mortar.
Cutting method. Formed from foam big block, which is dried in an oven and cut into products of the required sizes. In this case, specialized adhesive mixtures can be used for installation. This manufacturing method is characterized by high precision, and the error in the production of each block is no more than 1 mm, while the material produced by the injection molding method may have a slightly larger discrepancy.

Characteristics of foam concrete blocks

The building material has the following characteristics:

Reliability and durability. A properly laid foam concrete block is a virtually ageless material.
Heat. High thermal resistance Such walls allow you to reduce heating costs by 30%.
Excellent sound insulation.
Easy to use. Anyone can lay out foam block masonry with their own hands. House master, working with brick or cinder block. There are only a few nuances here, which will be discussed below.
Since they don’t even know how to lay a cinder block or brick correctly professional builders, then you won’t have any special problems with this material.
Environmental friendliness. Over the entire period of operation, the material does not emit harmful substances into the air, second only to wood in terms of environmental friendliness.
Foam blocks and gas blocks are made in various sizes and shapes.

Relatively light weight allows you to significantly save building materials by laying the foundation at a shallower depth.
Fire safety. According to test results, the material has the first degree of fire resistance.
Wide range of applications.
Today there are the following types of foam blocks:
- Structural. Which are used to create loaded structures that carry additional load in addition to their weight.
- Thermal insulation, used for insulation purposes.
- Thermal insulation and structural, combining the properties of the two previous types.

Many home craftsmen are interested in the following question: “Is it possible to lay floor slabs on a foam block?” Of course, you should build load-bearing walls yourself using foam concrete blocks of grade 600 (and higher) only.

Foundation for masonry made of foam concrete blocks

As mentioned above, for foam blocks you need reliable foundation, which would minimize any deformations and pressure from the soil. And a monolithic base is an excellent choice.

However, it has several significant disadvantages:

The price of such a foundation is quite high; moreover, its construction is unjustified due to the relatively low weight of the foam block structure.
With such a foundation, you will not be able to equip a basement, which in some cases significantly expands usable space Houses.

Considering these factors, many home craftsmen prefer columnar or strip bases, which, when the right approach, can also become reliable basis for such a house.

When a builder asks whether it is possible to lay floor slabs on foam blocks, this means constructing a two-story structure. And if columnar foundation is aimed at light buildings, then the strip one may be quite suitable for two-storey house, so we will consider the features of working with this material.

The instructions are:

We mark the territory using pegs and a fishing line that is stretched between them.

Advice!
When marking, you should take into account the allowances for arranging the formwork, which amount to a total of 15 cm.

We dig a trench according to the markings. Its depth should be about one and a half meters. In the event that you are planning to arrange basement– the depth should be increased to at least two meters.
We make the base for the formwork, which is made from wooden beams. TO internal parties boards are nailed onto the beams, forming the formwork.
Pour a layer of sand (about 15 cm) into the formwork, which must be watered and compacted tightly. Water generously and evenly.

Advice!
In order to check how well the sand layer is compacted, you just need to step on it. If no trace remains, then everything was done correctly.

Using construction stapler, attach plastic film to the formwork.

Advice!
Use film in winter period it is impossible, because it will lose its elasticity, which will lead to poor quality of the foundation.

Take steel rods and wire and tie the reinforced frame together. The design of such a frame is not of fundamental importance; the main criterion here is strength.
Now you should start pouring concrete. For this, a mixer machine or a specialized pump is used.
We distribute the concrete evenly over the formwork using wooden slats. Make sure there are no empty spaces or protrusions on the surface.
After a month, you can start laying walls.

How to lay foam blocks

It’s not for nothing that home craftsmen are interested in how to lay foam blocks correctly. Once you figure out how to lay a cinder block on a foundation, you can easily handle foam concrete blocks.

And in order to carry out the work correctly, you should consider several recommendations from professionals:

You should start laying foam blocks with your own hands from the corner.
Experts recommend laying the material in two rows of 20 cm each. If you take into account the facing layer of half a brick, the thickness of such walls will be 52 cm, and if you add mortar joints - 55 cm.

In order to efficiently install foam concrete blocks, you should control the remaining voids at the seams. Vertical, horizontal and inter-row seams should be filled with glue or cement so that no cavities remain. Remaining composition should be removed as soon as possible.
In order to achieve maximum strength, the masonry is reinforced with a thin metal mesh.
To apply the composition evenly, use a notched trowel.
Is it possible to lay foam blocks in winter? It is possible, but it is still better to carry out the work during the season (spring-autumn).

Carrying out work

Now let's figure out how to properly lay masonry from foam blocks.

Since laying a foam block on glue is as simple as laying it on concrete, we will consider both options in one instruction:

First, the material must be cleaned of dust, dirt, snow, etc.

Advice!
If there are chips on the blocks, it is necessary to remove chamfers and sharp corners.

We start laying from the corners. The first row should be laid on a waterproofing layer. Roofing felt laid in 1 or 2 layers can be used as a waterproofing material.

The laying is carried out using sand-cement mortar in a component ratio of 1:3. The thickness of the seam does not exceed 30 mm. In the event that the masonry is carried out dry and hot weather– the material should be moistened before work.
Having laid the first row, we check its horizontalness with a level. If minor irregularities are found, they can be removed using a grinding tool.

Subsequent rows should be laid out on a light solution.
Stick to the following seam thickness:
- Vertical – 8-15 mm.
- Horizontal – 10-15 mm.

Advice!
Using adhesive composition The thickness of the seam is indicated on its packaging.
Usually it is 1-2 mm.

The solution should be applied along the entire length of the block, and then leveled using the notched side of a spatula or trowel.
The foam block should be lowered from above onto the solution, and it should not be moved more than 5 mm.
You can place the blocks with light blows of a rubber hammer, while shaking them.
Do not forget about the dressing - it must be correct. Vertical joints should be offset by no more than 0.4 block heights.

Conclusion

Foam concrete blocks - excellent construction material. And so that the building built from it will serve you for a long time. for long years, you must adhere to all the rules described above in your work. In the video presented in this article you will find Additional information on this topic.

What's happened foam concrete blocks where they can be used and what is the technology for laying blocks, you need to know in order not to be deceived by the same workers who like to do everything “quickly”, violating the requirements of instructions and safety manuals. And if you want to try your hand at construction, then knowledge will certainly not hurt (and the cost of the work will be lower).

Two types of foam blocks
1. Split. Each block is made by cutting a huge slab into "bricks" certain sizes.
2. Molded. It is obtained by casting foam concrete in a special form.

It is very simple to distinguish one product from another: a cut-type product has smoother edges.
It is best to place foam blocks made by injection molding on a brick base, using a mortar of cement and sand in a 1:4 ratio for binding. For better adhesion, it is also recommended to water them.
The same type of building material must be prepared for installation: be sure to clean out chips, remove irregularities, grind off nicks, and process sharp edges.
There are standards for how seams should look: their vertical thickness should be from 8 to 15 mm, horizontally - from 10 to 15 mm.
Cut-type foam concrete blocks, thanks to precise cut lines, have edges that do not need to be processed. They are ideally installed in masonry when special glue is used to fasten them.

The advantages of this use are obvious:
the thickness of the seams does not exceed 2 mm;
the surface is perfectly flat;
Due to the density of the masonry, the thermal insulation of the room is improved.
Tools for work
Try to first make sure you have the following things on hand:
Electric drill.
Drill attachments for mixing mortar and drilling holes for electrical outlets.
Rubber mallet.
Trowel (trowel).
Level, plumb line or laser device for such measurements.
Hacksaw.
Jigsaw.
Grinder saw or router.
Wall chaser.
Planer and grater.
Corner.
A notched trowel or a device for uniformly applying the adhesive layer (check with your local hardware store when purchasing).
Flat paint brush.
Vacuum cleaner.

How to lay foam blocks correctly
Stage 1
Have you decided that laying foam blocks with your own hands is more suitable for you? Learn how to mix cement mortar. Best to buy ready-made composition. The advantage is that you can knead in small portions, preventing the solution from solidifying when you pause work.
If you want to prepare everything yourself, then remember that the proportion of cement-sand-water looks like this: 1x4x1/2. The technology allows the addition of a plasticizer in accordance with the instructions indicated on the packaging.
Stage 2
We are processing the foundation. We clean it from dust ourselves using paint brush and a vacuum cleaner, then, using a level, we check the horizontalness of the main masonry. In case of flaws, we remove the unevenness by laying a layer of cement on top of the foundation base.
After the solution has dried, you need to apply waterproofing to the foundation by treating the surface with bicrost or waterproofing. A layer of cement is applied over the moisture protection. To ensure that the solution lies evenly, you will need a notched trowel to level it on the surface. Careful processing at the joints affects not only the strength, but also how effective the laying of foam blocks will be.
Initially, you should lay out two main rows. Installation is carried out from the edges to the middle, and the outer foam concrete blocks must be moistened with water. The main thing is to check the horizontality and verticality of the stacked “cubes” as often as possible using a level, plumb line or laser device.
Once you have finished laying the foam blocks of the second tier, make grooves for the reinforcement. If the installation goes along the perimeter, then you need to lay the rods in a circle, creating a so-called armored belt.
Stage 3
Starting from the second row, the laying of foam blocks is already carried out using glue. You can use cut blocks. How to prepare the binder composition is indicated in the instructions on the package itself.
The next belt of blocks is installed according to the same pattern as the first. After 3-4 rows, you need to do the gating again and strengthen the structure with reinforcement.
If you have to lay foam blocks made by injection molding, the installation is carried out not with glue, but with sand-concrete mortar, the interblock seams are reinforced welded mesh.
That's basically the whole process. Do not forget about the following points while working:

1. It is best to spread the glue on the surface of the foam concrete with a notched trowel.
2. If there is a need to eliminate blemishes and unevenness, then use a plane and grater.
3. Above window and doorways A reinforced gasket should also be used.
4. Check the verticality and horizontality of the masonry as often as possible. The slightest inaccuracies should be corrected immediately, before the solution or glue “sets.”
5. If walls are erected using sand and cement, the blocks must be constantly watered (adhesion to the mortar improves). At the end of the work, the wall made of foam blocks must be covered with polyethylene.
6. To improve thermal insulation, foam concrete blocks are laid in two rows with overlapping vertical joints.
7. The reinforcement is pressed with force into grooves filled with mortar. This prevents the development of corrosion.
8. In order to facilitate the work, you can use a row - a strip with divisions corresponding to the thickness of one row of masonry. A corner is used for the same purpose.

Stage 4
When the last row of foam blocks is laid, a reinforced belt, poured with concrete. Its height should be about 20 cm, and its width should be slightly less than the edge of the foam block. This is necessary in order to then place insulation into the resulting niche. Thanks to this solution, the load of the floors will be distributed evenly over the entire perimeter, eliminating the formation of cracks and destruction of blocks.

Main mistakes when laying foam blocks:
1. The first row of blocks was installed carelessly. The slightest deviation from the vertical threatens to distort the entire wall and improperly distribute the load, cracks appear, and the strength of the structure decreases.
2. Ignoring the removal of dust and small particles after grooving. Distortions may occur during installation.
3. Masonry is carried out in rainy or frosty weather. Moisture accumulates, which, when frozen, will destroy the structure of the material, forming cracks.
4. Neglect of reinforcement and installation of a reinforced concrete belt upon completion of the construction of the structure. Leads to the formation of cracks, wall subsidence, and uneven distribution of load on load-bearing elements.
5. Uneven application of the mortar layer, violation of proportions during mixing. They entail a weakening of the strength of the entire masonry and a violation of thermal insulation.

Calculation of the cost of masonry
First of all, you should decide on the type of foam blocks you will be working with. Next important point: being compiled detailed diagram calculating the area and number of required foam concrete “cubes”. And finally, you need to decide how all the elements will be connected to each other: using glue or sand-cement mortar.
In order to correctly lay walls made of foam blocks, you also need to know how much reinforcement and thermal insulation will be used for construction.
And finally, add here the workers’ wages (unless, of course, you decide to do the work with your own hands).
For guidance, we can only say that the cost per 1 m3 varies quite widely and depends on the category and method of production. On average, the price varies in size from 2400 to 4000 rubles.

The construction of buildings from foam concrete blocks is currently of great interest. It consists in saving money at the construction stage, since it is an inexpensive material.

And if you consider that even one person can build a structure in a short period of time, it creates the opportunity to save on workers’ wages. After all, to erect a building from blocks with big size much simpler than using ordinary brick and does not require much professionalism.

In addition, the advantages of foam concrete blocks for the construction of premises are assumed in the future huge opportunities next time you finish the walls.

You can choose facade plasters and putties, clinker tiles and facades with ventilation, or, for example, wild stone and the same siding. The choice of material depends only on your preferences and availability of finances.

Tools necessary for laying foam blocks

If you chose a foam block to build a building and decided to do it on your own, then you need to find out first of all how to choose it, we talked about this.

The foam block is quite durable and easy to bend various types processing, however, it is a fragile material. In this regard, to work with it you should buy the following tools:

Now there are quite big choice tools for laying this building material from various manufacturers.

What solutions are used for laying foam blocks

Laying walls made of foam blocks can be done using several types of mortars. Often used cement-sand mortar with the addition of water, its proportions are usually as follows: 1x3x1/2, a plasticizer is added to the mixture (the dosage is indicated on the package). This is due to the fact that some foam block manufacturers cannot guarantee the unevenness of the block edges to be 2mm. But it is not possible to put such blocks on glue ones.

You can prepare the cement-sand mortar yourself or order it ready-made. Of course it is more convenient to use factory, but they lasts up to 3 hours. Therefore, you should proceed from the speed at which you can use it up. Accordingly, if you knead it yourself, you can knead it in the portions that you need.

The use of these solutions leads to an increase in the seam, which means unnecessary heat loss.

If the capabilities of the material allow, it is advisable to use an adhesive mixture. In this case, deviations in the dimensions of the blocks themselves should not exceed 2 mm. With such masonry, the walls themselves will turn out smoother, and in the future their finishing will be easier and, accordingly, cheaper.

The mixture is brought to a glue state using water with good stirring according to the instructions on the package. The glue is kept for up to 10 minutes, mixed again, after which it can be used.

When using an adhesive mixture for laying foam blocks, the thickness of the seam is no more than 3 mm. It's much increases thermal insulation, but on condition High Quality glue.

In addition, you will spend much less time and effort on the amount of mortar you prepare, because you need many times less of it than cement-sand.

Sometimes frost-resistant tile adhesive is used, but as practice has shown, it does not have any special advantages and is not economically profitable.

Technology of laying the walls of a house made of foam blocks

How to lay the first row of foam blocks

To correctly lay foam blocks, you should competently approach organizational issues at the initial stage of construction.

Before you start laying foam blocks, you need to carry out proper preparation foundation. The blocks themselves are thoroughly cleaned of dust, and the foundation is checked for horizontal level. Next the first layer is laid cement-sand mortar to remove all detected errors.

The first row of foam blocks should be well protected from moisture that may come from the basement. That's why Necessarily before starting masonry waterproofing layer is installed. Rolls (for example, bicrost) are laid on the foundation, another layer of mortar is applied to them, and then work begins on installing the first row of foam concrete blocks. The dimensions of the waterproofing layer should be slightly larger than the width of the foam concrete block.

When laying the first row of blocks, it is imperative to use only a solution of cement and sand.

First you need to draw out the corners and continue working towards the center of the row. The outer foam blocks are wetted with water. When, finishing a row, you see that you need to lay a cut block, then put the mortar on each of its ends.

All laid foam blocks definitely necessary check with a level for horizontalness. If there are differences, then the blocks are tapped with a mallet. And immediately remove any irregularities that form with a grater.

Installation of subsequent rows of foam blocks on the solution

Just like the first, all subsequent rows are laid using mortar using a notched trowel-bucket.

It is necessary to ensure that the seams are thoroughly filled with mortar. Constant checking of the horizontal level of the masonry is mandatory. All defects must be corrected immediately with a grinding tool.

To reduce heat loss, foam concrete blocks are stacked in two rows with overlapping vertical seams.

To install floor slabs, a monolithic reinforced belt 10-20 cm high is poured to evenly distribute the load with additional insulation to avoid unnecessary heat loss.

The insulation is laid with external parties building and closes facing material. Reinforced lintels are also poured for window and door openings using special U blocks, also with insulation.

When using this solution, foam concrete blocks must be watered with water and covered with polyethylene upon completion of work.

How to lay foam block walls with glue

The second and subsequent rows of foam blocks are laid on the adhesive mixture in one row, with mandatory bandaging up to 12cm(maybe half a block). The glue is applied in a layer of up to 3 mm to the butt seam, and then to the horizontal one, using a notched trowel.

Foam blocks are installed and checked using a level; if necessary, adjustments are made immediately.

To simplify the laying, you can establish order. It doesn’t matter what material you make it from, for this you can use a wooden strip with a cross-section of 50 by 50 or 70 by 50 mm and a length of about 2 m, on which there will be divisions (notches) corresponding to the thickness of the row of masonry or metal corner 60x60x5 mm.

Everything must be firmly fixed (clearly vertical) and accurately mark the corners. Then the cord is pulled to the appropriate height of the row, which must be moved as the foam blocks are laid in rows, taking into account the seam.

Preparations for installation of floor slabs and opening lintels are carried out in the same way.

For correct installation Each jumper requires a special calculation and insulation scheme.

The laying of partitions is carried out similarly to the laying of walls, but special partition foam blocks are used for this. For installation of partitions of any height there will be A foam block thickness of 10-15 cm is sufficient.

The first row of blocks is mounted on a pre-primed floor using glue. The outer blocks are tied to the walls using a metal corner.

It should also be taken into account that, despite their strength, foam blocks require reinforcement to prevent future cracks from appearing on the walls, as this could destroy the entire structure.

The reinforcement is placed in grooves cut and filled with mortar and pressed in to avoid corrosion.

If there is no access to electricity, then a manual wall chaser and a brush are used to cut through them to remove dust. If you have one, you can use an electric milling cutter and a hair dryer (construction hair dryer).

The placement of reinforcing bars must be calculated at the design stage, since this is an individual solution for any individual building.

Reinforcement of foam block masonry begins in the first row and is repeated after four rows. The lintels above all planned openings must also be reinforced. All excess solution is immediately removed.

What is the price of laying walls made of foam blocks?

Currently, there is no definite figure for the cost of laying foam blocks. It depends on the scale of the planned work, the chosen configuration of the room, arches, doors, etc.

However, from the average Russian indicators we can say that when laying partitions from foam blocks you will have to pay a specialist from 1200 to 2000 rubles per m2.

If we are talking about the installation of external and load-bearing walls, then the cost of laying one cubic meter material, it begins from 4000 rubles.

We remind you once again that we took the average Russian prices for masonry made of foam blocks, i.e. In your specific region, the cost of these works may be slightly different.

Before you start doing the work yourself, we suggest you visually familiarize yourself with the process of laying and reinforcing walls made of foam blocks by watching the following video: