Before planting seedlings, you need to carefully prepare the soil, disinfect and feed the soil. What's the best way to do this? Treat with a solution of potassium permanganate, phytosporin? Heat in the oven or microwave? Let's discuss all the known methods and find out why this or that method is good.

It's all in the soil

The healthier the soil, the stronger the seedlings that grow on it, this is an axiom. But not everyone has the opportunity to purchase every year ready soil for seedlings. So practitioners are thinking about how to disinfect last year’s or garden soil.

Proper disinfection affects various bacteria, nematodes, eggs and pupae of insects, and fungal spores. And protects against blackleg, a common disease of young seedlings.

Before planting seedlings, the soil must be decontaminated to destroy bacteria and pest eggs.

It’s even better to carry out the treatment in such a way as to protect the soil from pathogenic bacteria and not harm beneficial microorganisms.

All methods can be divided into two groups. In the first traditional methods, in the second - disinfection using various purchasing funds. Let's start with traditional methods.

“Hardening” of soil by frost

The simplest processing method is freezing.

Attention! After any type of disinfection, you need to pour the soil into sterile containers wiped with bleach.

To disinfect the soil, you can freeze it - outside, or, if there is not much of it, in the freezer

This method also has a drawback. Negative temperature negatively affects not only pathogenic, but also beneficial microflora. Therefore, freezing is not recommended for soils that contain vermicompost.

Another minus - low temperatures will not cope with carriers of diseases such as late blight. Only heat treatment will affect them.

Calcination in the oven

It turns out that you can fry, steam and stew... earth. Various pests do not survive in soil subjected to heat treatment.

Attention! Fire disinfection is carried out at low temperatures. Its increase leads to nitrogen mineralization and deterioration of soil quality.

• to calcinate the soil in the oven, you need to pour the soil into a large basin and pour a small amount of boiling water over it;
• when the mixture has cooled a little, mix it thoroughly;
• pour the wet mass onto a baking sheet in a layer of no more than 5 cm and place in the oven;
• Heat for half an hour at a temperature of 70-90 degrees.

Steaming in a water bath in a large container

It is believed that steam treatment is a more gentle method than calcination over fire. But at the same time, quite reliable.

Advice: after any heat treatment The cooled soil should be scattered on paper or polyethylene in a layer of up to 10 cm and leveled. This will fill it with air and become looser.

• it is necessary to prepare a large container, for example a tank;
• lay bricks or an iron grate on the bottom;
• pour water below the level of the bricks;
• place soil in a canvas bag or fabric bag on the lattice or bricks;
• cover the tank with a lid, put on fire and steam the soil in a water bath for about two hours.

Steaming in a water bath in a colander.

• line a colander with a cloth;
• fill a large saucepan with water and wait until it boils;
• Reduce heat and hang a colander with soil over the pan. Or install it on top so that the water does not touch the ground;
• warm up for half an hour. Steam penetrating the soil sterilizes it.

Using the same principle, gardeners advise frying the soil in a frying pan, calcining it in microwave oven, simmer in foil or in a sleeve. When treated with the last two methods, the water contained in the ground heats up and further cleans the soil. You can also pour boiling water over the soil in a shallow container and cover with film.

Steaming the soil can also be done in a double boiler, in a special container.

There is one caveat: heat treatment kills both pests and beneficial microflora. This means that the above procedures must be done in advance in order to have time to restore the soil before planting.

Steaming purchased soil

Attention! Immediately after treatment, the soil is sterile. But in a couple of weeks the microflora in it will be restored. Where is the guarantee that it’s only useful? Experts recommend that after disinfection, pack the soil in thick, sterile bags. Open just before planting and add Biohumus (one-liter jar per bucket of soil) or Supercompost (1-2 cups per bucket). This way you will completely protect the plants.

Some practitioners advise treating not only garden soil, but also purchased soil. For this purpose, a closed package with a ready-made soil mixture needs to be placed in a bucket. Pour boiling water down the side of the bucket and close the lid tightly. Remove the bag only after it has cooled completely.

Soil disinfection with special means

You can also disinfect the soil chemically:

Reducing soil acidity

Simultaneously with disinfection, it is necessary to equalize the acid-base balance of the soil. After all, even in disinfected soil that has an acidic reaction, sulfur stalk and clubroot develop well.

Peat soil and garden soil have an acidic reaction. To alkalize the soil, add slaked lime or dolomite flour. Moreover different cultures- your proportions.

To reduce soil acidity, slaked lime or dolomite flour is used

How to treat the soil? Diseases, diseases, soil treatment. Restoring fertility. Reasons for decreased fertility

Tips for preparing the soil and restoring its nutritional properties. How to restore decreased fertility? What to do if the soil is sick and the plants are withering? Practical experience. (10+)

How to cure the soil? Soil diseases. Fertility restoration

The material is an explanation and addition to the article:
Do-it-yourself fertile agro soil.
Need plant soil? Do it yourself. Practical experience in cultivating and cultivating agro-soil plots for beds, homestead farming, growing plants.

Often, on a certain piece of land, the yield drops sharply. In this case, it is customary to say that the earth is sick. Let's try to figure out what lies behind this concept and what can be done about it.

Soil diseases

Infection with bacteria and fungi. As plants grow, they may become sick. After harvesting, bacteria and fungi remain in the soil. Some of them die in the cold, but some can remain in the soil for many years and infect new plantings. A sign is the appearance in young plants of diseases that were present in plants of the previous year (spots on leaves, rotting, etc.)

Exhaustion. As selected nutrients plants, the land is depleted and loses fertility. This disease is characterized by a general stunting of seedlings for no apparent reason (there are no pests, diseases, but the plant is still weak and stunted)

Violation of the structure. The earth can become hard, heavy, form layers, crack, and undergo erosion. This defect is very easy to diagnose. The soil appears rough, cracked, crusts and cracks form, and forms hard lumps to the touch. It is difficult to dig up such soil. It does not retain moisture after watering and dries out quickly.

Weeds. Weeds may take root in the garden bed. A small number of weeds are always present, but sometimes there are a lot of weeds and they clog all the crops. Then we say that the ground is overgrown.

Restoring soil fertility

Eco-friendly slow way

The resulting mixture rots. At the same time, such aggressive waste products of rotting bacteria are released, then other bacteria, fungi, small pests and weed seeds have no chance. People say that they burn out. Additionally, the soil is enriched with nutrients.

The described method has only one drawback. Cultivated plants can be planted only after complete rotting (burnout) of the mixture. And the mixture very often does not have time to burn out in one winter. You can’t plant anything in soil that hasn’t yet rotted enough; everything will die. There is no reliable way to determine that the reaction has completed. Soil temperature can be measured as an indicator. To measure, we will select a control plot of soil meter by meter, and cover it for the winter in the same way as the cultivated soil. In the spring, we measure the soil temperature in the center of our square and in the cultivated area with a thermometer. Let's compare. If the temperature in the center of the control square differs from the temperature of our mixture by less than a degree, then most likely the reaction is over. But there are no guarantees. The reaction may simply not have started to the desired extent yet. Success can only be guaranteed if you skip the season. That is, leave the soil under the insulation layer to rest for one summer, and plant it the next spring.

Non-eco-friendly quick way

There is much more quick way treating soil from harmful microflora (bacteria, fungi). However, it requires the use of toxic chemicals. Its essence is that the soil is processed chemical fungicide, for example, foundationazole. Treatment is carried out twice with an interval of 7 - 8 days. After the second treatment, you should wait 2.5 weeks for the foundation to decompose. Next enter biological fungicide(useful microorganisms that will live on our site). I add Fitosporin. This method can be used even if the site is occupied, if there are already trees, bushes and other trees growing on it. perennials. The described method will not harm the plants. .

Other diseases

Violation of the soil structure can be treated by adding compost, digging and growing special plants. I grow earthen pear. It grows on any soil. In the fall, the bed with the earthen pear must be dug up along with the root crops of this plant. They will be a good fertilizer.

There will be a separate article on the fight against large pests (moles, mole crickets, etc.). Subscribe to the news to stay informed.

In a good way radical struggle against weeds is to treat the beds with boiling water before planting cultivated plants. Just keep in mind that this can only be done with small plots of land. This way you will cook worms. If this happens on small area, then there is nothing wrong. Boiled meat will become fertilizer, and new worms will come from the neighboring land. But if you treat a large area like this, you can greatly upset the ecological balance. In any case, this method is much safer than herbicides. By the way, herbicides also kill worms.

Boiling water treatment - great way preparing soil for seedlings and indoor plants. If you take land from your garden for these purposes, and do not buy it, then hot water will get rid of weeds, pests and harmful bacteria.

Unfortunately, errors are periodically found in articles; they are corrected, articles are supplemented, developed, and new ones are prepared.

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2013-06-11

Summer residents whose plots are located near city limits know firsthand how difficult it is to find organic fertilizers. That’s why they use mineral ones, most often complex ones, which contain microelements. Of course, everyone knows the benefits that microelements provide. But not everyone knows that only a certain amount of them in the soil has a positive effect on the future harvest.

How do microelements get into the soil?

Zinc. The use of galvanized dishes for storing water, which is used for irrigation, and preparing fertilizers leads to the entry of this element into the soil. It is worth noting that it is also absolutely unsuitable for watering and rainwater flowing down from galvanized roofs.

Manganese. This chemical element is part of potassium permanganate, which we generously use to prepare a solution not only for watering seedlings, but also for plants already in greenhouses and beds. By doing this, we ourselves destroy all the positive soil microflora and humus.

Copper. Contained in copper sulfate And Bordeaux mixture, to whose help we resort very often, but not always in moderation.

At all, mineral fertilizers It should be added to the soil only when developing turf. And with further regular use of ash and organic matter, they are basically not needed.

Remember that when you add excess mineral fertilizers to the soil, you are thereby causing great harm to both the soil and the plants on it. Often, gardeners use saline watering to control pests. After such procedures, the soil loses its structure, begins to crack in the sun, and it is simply impossible to loosen it.

Our advice!

Ammonium fertilizers, as well as ammophos, urea, potassium chloride and mixtures based on them, oxidize the soil better than others. Optimal acidity for many plants it is 5.5 – 6.0 pH.

Almost all mineral fertilizers increase soil acidity. And in order to bring the pH back to normal, it is necessary to add the same amount of lime to the ground. Therefore, when using fertilizers, you need to strictly monitor the acidity of the soil. Various organic fertilizers help normalize it, the main ones being manure, bird droppings and compost. In addition to them, you can also use chalk, lime, dolomite and phosphorus flour.

Calcium, when added to the soil, improves the structure of the latter. As a result, even the clay of peat bogs begins to coagulate, set into lumps and, as a result, no longer sticks together. In addition to all this, many nutritional elements become available to plants. And therefore productivity increases significantly even without any additional fertilizers.

Therefore, in order for the soil on your site to be healthy and produce a rich harvest, you must follow the following rules:

1. Apply microelements and mineral fertilizers in moderation.

2. Under no circumstances burn polyvinyl chloride on the site, which, when burned, releases the strongest poison dioxin.

3. Do not use soap solutions based on synthetic detergents in any capacity. detergents. They have one important feature- they are stored in the soil for decades, causing the earth to simply suffocate.

4. Use natural remedies best.

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