Handmade furniture items are becoming increasingly popular. These unique items are made taking into account a specific interior and fit into it perfectly. Of course, you can order a bed at custom sizes and with clear wishes to the manufacturing company, but the price will be quite high. Therefore, this article will discuss how to make a double bed with your own hands.

If you have welding skills, the bed frame can be made from profile pipe, and decorate the back with elements of decorative forging. But we will look at a simpler and accessible way for everyone to make a double bed from wood. In this case, only materials that are harmless to health will be used, for example, PVA glue. It will take at least 7 - 10 days to completely assemble the bed. You can find it on the Internet a large number of drawings and diagrams of a double bed with your own hands, consider the simplest option.

Materials, tools and drawings for a double bed

To start making a bed, you need to prepare everything you need:

• diagram of a double bed for assembly with your own hands, which contains details of all elements and sizes;
• sheet plywood;
• metal corners;
• large jar of PVA glue;
• nails or screws;
• beam;
• pins.

DIY drawing of a double bed photo


Now it’s time to prepare the preparations:

• timber is selected with a cross-section of 4x5 cm in the amount of 14 pieces. It must be absolutely smooth and durable, so it makes sense to give preference to laminated pine. Length 200-210 cm;
• cut and planed slats 2x10 cm, length 2 m 20 pcs.

Advice: you should first purchase a mattress and only then start assembling the frame. The fact is that it often differs from the declared dimensions by 1 - 2 cm.

• If you plan to make drawers for a double bed with your own hands, then you need to additionally buy chipboard sheets for them.
• Fastening elements should be purchased with a reserve; to assemble a wooden bed you will not need expensive fasteners. 70 pieces are enough. wood screws 6 cm long.

Tip: when choosing metal corners, pay attention to their bends, or rather to the bases of the bends. If there is roughness on them, this indicates their low quality. Raw materials made from such raw metal may begin to crack during use.

DIY double bed made of wood

• First, a rectangular frame is assembled. Each side consists of three beams connected in height, which makes the base as rigid as possible. The result should be an even rectangle, inner dimensions which corresponds to the dimensions of the mattress. If there is a risk of making less than necessary, then it is advisable to leave an allowance of 1 cm on all sides.

• To do this, take a 4x5 cm beam and cut it into 2 parts 1620 mm (taking into account allowances of 1 cm on each side of the base) and 2 parts 2100 mm (2020 mm +2 * 40mm). Everything must be done as accurately as possible, otherwise it will not be possible to connect all the parts. They are laid out on the floor, and PVA furniture glue is applied to the first row.
• The second row of timber is immediately placed on top and secured with self-tapping screws. It is very important that the bars are level and that there is no distortion when fastening the crowns. The most convenient way is to check the correctness rectangular shape future bed frame using a tape measure or twine, measuring the lengths diagonally.
• When tightening the screws, excess glue will invariably come out. They must be removed immediately, without allowing the composition to set. Otherwise, they will greatly spoil the appearance of the bed, interfering high-quality processing surfaces.
• The orthopedic slatted base, which is assembled from slats 2 cm thick, is too weak to withstand the load of a double mattress and two people, so it is necessary to make a stiffening rib in the center. It runs along the bed and should have a pair of legs.
• Another 4 legs are made in each of the corners of the frame. To do this, take two pieces of the required length of timber 4x5 cm and fasten them together with self-tapping screws, first coating the seams with glue. And securely attached to rectangular frame. Now you can turn the base over and install it on the legs.
• Based on the drawings of a double bed, which is made by hand from wood, supports are prepared for the slatted base. From the same timber from which the perimeter of the frame was made, sections are cut equal to the internal length of the sides of the bed.
• Considering that the frame has a thickness of three rows, the support beam is attached at the level of the second row along the entire internal perimeter. Its thickness is enough to attach an orthopedic base made of thin slats to it.

Advice: it is better to make the length of the slats a little shorter so that there is a deformation gap between them and the frame. This will protect the wood from cracking or possible squeaking.

• The slats are attached in increments of 15 to 30 mm. It should be the same, so it’s convenient to prepare a template. They are fixed in three places - along the edges and along the axial stiffener. There are two self-tapping screws in each place.
• Then it is left for a while so that the glue dries completely.
• After this, the final processing begins. First, the entire surface, including the legs, is sanded. If you don’t have a special grinder, you can use a grinder with an appropriate attachment (coarse-grained). After this, processing is carried out with fine-grained sandpaper movements along the wood fibers.
• After making sure that the surface of the bed is smooth, you should carefully remove all dust from the surface and wash the room in which sanding was carried out. Otherwise, small particles will settle on the fresh paint and ruin the appearance of the bed.
• For painting, it is best to choose a high-quality abrasion-resistant varnish. First, the frame is coated with a protective primer for wood, and then the required amount layers of varnish (minimum 3). If it is not possible to use a spray gun, you need to buy a special varnish brush with very fine bristles. During this work, you will have to turn the bed over to apply the coating on all sides.
• At the same stage, you can think about and at the same time paint the headboard if it is also made of wood.

DIY headboard for a double bed

The headboard is an integral element of the bed. It’s not enough just to assemble a frame for a mattress, you also need to create Beautiful design, which will fit into the interior of the bedroom and create a cozy atmosphere.
During development appearance The headboard should be designed so that it is comfortable to lean on while reading before bed. And at the same time, it will not wear out or change its appearance during long-term use.

Soft rectangular headboard for a double bed

Even a woman can do it with her own hands, with the bare minimum of tools. It will be a simple rectangular shape, upholstered in beautiful fabric.
To work you will need:

• a piece of plywood of the required size;
• durable fabric;
• foam rubber and synthetic winterizer;
• construction stapler with staples.

Stages of work

• Take a sheet of plywood. If its dimensions differ from the required ones, then all excess is cut off with a jigsaw. Foam rubber is cut out and laid on top. Its thickness depends on individual preferences.
• An ironed piece of fabric is placed on top. It must have sufficient allowances to go around the plywood sheet with foam rubber and extend onto the back wall by at least 15 cm.
• First, one side is secured with a stapler. Then they begin all subsequent ones, while creating the necessary tension. Once the sides are secured, it is recommended to turn the headboard over to ensure there are no folds or too little tension.
• Literally in 2 hours the headboard is ready. It can be attached directly to the wall. To do this with reverse side metal eye-loops are screwed to it, with which it will cling to the screws in the wall (this canopy method will not work if the wall is made of plasterboard without a mortgage).

Soft figured headboard for bed

It is much more complex in execution, but the end result will add luxury to the bedroom. It will require:

• plywood;
• chalk or soap with a sharp edge for marking on fabric;
• universal glue, suitable for gluing both fabric and foam rubber;
• construction stapler;
• foam;
• furniture nails;
• decorative material for upholstery.

Stages of work

• First, a sketch of the form is made. According to him in life size the stencil is being prepared. Such a visual paper blank is also needed in order to confidently assess whether such a headboard will suit the design of the room.
• Using a stencil, a part is cut out of plywood with a jigsaw and from foam rubber. Glue is applied to the surface of the plywood sheet, especially carefully on all edges, and foam rubber is glued. Along the edge, for greater reliability, it can be fixed with a stapler.

• A cut is placed on top decorative fabric and staples it along the edge. After this, the headboard is turned over and the remaining allowances of material are nailed onto the back side into tension. If the base has rounded shapes, the fabric allowances should be cut to the edge of the plywood in 5 cm increments.
• To close the fasteners from the stapler with front side To decorate the headboard even more, take decorative twine and nail it along the contour onto furniture nails. If the design provides additional use decorative elements, then the markings for them are first applied with chalk.
• The reverse side can also be covered with fabric, cutting it a little smaller than what the shape requires. The edges are pre-folded and stitched.
• The finished headboard is either hung on the wall or simply placed on the floor and pressed against the bed.

Upholstered headboard for a bed using the carriage screed technique

It's popular and stylish design, which can often be found on luxury bed models in stores.


To work you need to prepare:

• plywood;
• foam;
• padding polyester
• construction stapler;
• pencil;
• textile;
• decorative lace;
• decorative large buttons.

Stages of work

• Foam rubber is glued to a sheet of plywood. In order for the final result to be beautiful, the layer of foam rubber must be at least 5 cm.
• On a sheet of paper corresponding to the size of the headboard, markings are drawn in the form of squares. It marks the places where the buttons will be located. At this point, holes are cut out on the sheet and applied again to the headboard from the foam side. And they make marks with a pencil.
• In these places on foam rubber and plywood make through holes, smaller in diameter than buttons. To do this, use a drill or screwdriver with the necessary attachment.

Tip: to create an even softer and more pleasant-to-touch surface, it is recommended to place a layer of padding polyester on top of the foam rubber. Holes are also made on it in the places where the buttons are attached.

• The top of the headboard is covered with decorative fabric using a stapler.
• Thick ropes are threaded through the button eyelet. Having felt the holes under them with your hand, a thin cut is made in the fabric in this place to thread the rope, and pulled through. The button should press the fabric with foam tightly and rest against the plywood. The ropes are tied on the reverse side and the ends are nailed with a stapler. For ease of work, it is recommended to use a hook.

Bed headboard made of rags

For the bedroom in rustic style, a homemade headboard for a bed made from multi-colored scraps looks especially good. And if you use noble fabrics using the same technique, and make the flaps themselves larger in size, then it will fit even into the most luxurious interiors.
To work you will need:

• the required number of sheets of plywood (one the size of the headboard remains solid);
• saw or jigsaw;
• scissors;
• foam;
• stapler;
• glue;
• screwdriver;
• textile;
• self-tapping screws

Stages of work

• We line the plywood into the required number of squares. Then it is laid on supports and cut with a jigsaw or saw.
• Foam rubber is cut to the size of plywood blanks. Fabric parts are cut out with an allowance of 10-15 cm.
• Foam rubber is glued to the plywood. The fabric is placed on top, and pulling it tightly, I fix it only on the reverse side with a stapler. In this way, all elements of the future headboard are prepared.

• The resulting squares are placed face down on the clean floor. They are temporarily fixed together with double-sided tape. A solid sheet of plywood is placed on top, which will become the basis for fastening individual elements. Using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver, the squares are screwed to it.
• After turning the product over, adhesive tape cleaned up. That's it, the work is finished.

Double bed with lifting mechanism

This bed is especially convenient for a small bedroom. The lifting mechanism has a number of advantages:

• there is free space under the double bed. This is a fairly spacious place that can be used at your discretion;
• You can store everything under the bed bed sheets and other things. There is no need to buy a chest of drawers or a wardrobe;
• The lifting mechanism is easy to use; even a child can lift it;
• an ideal solution for a minimalist interior;
• the space under the bed will not become a storage area for dust and children’s toys will not get there;
• By making a lift-up double bed with your own hands, you will get both a bed and a wardrobe at an affordable price.

DIY double bed. Blueprints

It’s not difficult to make, just buy it necessary details for assembling the frame on hinges. Choice lifting structures and the parts for them are quite varied, and it will not be difficult to choose the appropriate option.
The lift bed will consist of:

• frame;
• lifting mechanism;
• accessories;
• mattress.

Main options lifting mechanisms:

• gas shock absorber. This is the most expensive option, but reliable and easy to use. Since it requires the least amount of effort to lift, this will be the best option for a heavy double bed;
• spring mechanism. Its execution is simpler, therefore the price is lower and more affordable. Initially, the reliability of such a mechanism is high, but with prolonged use the springs can be damaged. But replacing them is not difficult, and the cost of repairs will be minimal. The main disadvantage is considered to be too heavy lifting, so it is better not to choose it for a double or children's bed;
• on hinges. The most primitive and cheap option. But since the hinges do not even partially take on the load of lifting the structure, they are unacceptable for a double bed that is planned to be raised frequently.

Having decided on the size of the bed and the type of lifting mechanism, you need to make a drawing of the future design:

• First of all, the material for the bed frame is selected. It is best to choose light wood or durable and high-quality MDF. In production, it can be covered with film with any design or painted;
• you can make an orthopedic base yourself from slats 2 cm thick or buy a ready-made one;
• the mattress is selected according to individual wishes;
• The lifting mechanism is only suitable with gas shock absorbers.

Based on this data, a drawing is prepared and according to it, cutting and preparation of all structural elements and fasteners begins. The following video shows detailed instructions How to assemble a bed with a lifting mechanism with your own hands.

We make a double bed with a lift and two compartments for things (1400x2000) ourselves

We make a double bed with a lift and two compartments for things (1400x2000) ourselves.

I realized that I no longer have the strength to sleep on a fold-out sofa corner. The sofa is old (8 years!!!), the filling is wrinkled in places, the back feels hard unevenness and hurts in the morning.

To begin with, my wife and I decided to drive around and look at the shops and fairs bed + orthopedic mattress. With size sleeping place decided - 1400 x 2000. This is also suitable for the subsequent layout of the room.

The bedroom set (bed, wardrobe, bedside tables, etc.) is not suitable for us, because... small bedroom - 9m2. All that remains is just a bed.

The prices were different - from 6500 rubles. (chipboard + plywood) up to 50,000 and above.

I liked something similar:

just without the headboard. ( Soft sides without sharp corners+ simplicity... in short, I liked it!)

The price of such a bed (without a lifting mechanism) is about 15,000 rubles. You can put a lift in the bed you like (more + 12000). Total - 27,000 rubles.

A lifting mechanism was needed because... The apartment is small and the presence of additional compartments for different things is a resolved issue.

I decided to make the bed myself (no experience, but I know how to work with tools).

An orthopedic base was found for 4,500 rubles.

Transformation system - elevator: 1200 rub.

I sketched out a sketch and thought about how everything would be arranged. I roughly calculated the lumber and went in search of boards for the sides and legs. ( Important: There are no solid boards of the required size. You need to buy a tongue and groove board (window sill or something similar). Without knowing this, I bought floorboard with veneer for gluing (thickness - 35 mm, width - 150 mm) at the rate of three boards per side. For the legs I took 100 x 100 mm timber. Upon purchase, all boards and beams were cut to size.

At home I picked up and glued (PVA-based carpentry glue) three boards each: Long side - 2010 mm, short side - 1420+35+35=1490 mm. (I first estimated the gap with which the gas lift operates - about 10 mm from the lifting bar to the wall of the bed to which the gas lift is attached. Hence 1420 mm). 35mm - board thickness.

The disadvantage of the floorboard is that it has a slight curvature - a “propeller” (take the window sill - it is straight). That’s why I spent a long time choosing and adjusting which boards would fit in what way.

As a result, I picked up and glued 4 boards. Board size: L1=L2=2010mm, L3=L4=1490mm.

Because the orthopedic base rests on 4 corners and a longitudinal plane in the middle, I glued another board that will serve as a support for the base. L5=2010mm

Leg size: L1=L2=L3=L4=450mm. The timber was damp and therefore cracked slightly while it was drying. But this did not affect the process and quality. It is important to let the wood dry. I made the bed slowly, so the legs had time to dry.

The sides of the bed needed to be rounded. This was done in two steps: 1 - electric jigsaw at an angle of 45°; 2 - belt sander (by eye).

Next, all sides of the bed were assembled using corners and screws. The difficulty was that the three boards turned out to be almost straight, and one of the sides (it was supposed to be placed with this side towards the wall) was a “propeller”. Therefore, the “straight” sides were attached first:

Coming to the 4th corner, we have this curvature:

The board was forced to fit and fastened with a long self-tapping screw into the end of the board:

Things are not going well at the bottom of this corner either:

Due to the fact that the bottom of the board was pulled to the side due to the “propeller”, a wedge was placed. WITH outside I simply cut off the protruding board. I rounded the corners using the same technology: (the holes for attaching the legs are visible)

Since there are metal corners in the corners inside the bed base, there was a need additional processing legs (grooves with a belt sander):

The holes for attaching the legs were measured and drilled. The height of the legs is the same as the width of the sides. Shift of legs downwards by 60mm.

Trial installation of legs:

All screws are in place: (There is room on top for an orthopedic base + a side to stabilize the mattress)

Pieces of linoleum were glued to the ends of the legs (top and bottom). From below so as not to scratch the floor, and from above for an orthopedic base:

After gluing the overlays, I glued and wrapped the legs with upholstery material, and secured the edges with a stapler. Holes for mounting screws are cut:

I set up the bed and figured out how the orthopedic base would fit:

This is approximately how it will open on elevators. There is no support board yet under the middle of the base. It moves down like the legs - by 60 mm.

Let's start tightening the sides of the bed. First, foam rubber S-10mm:

This down side sides of the bed. The foam comes from the edge of the board, because... There will be slats inside the base to support the plywood base of the drawers. The foam rubber is glued to the sides.

This is one of the corners. The foam rubber is turned, cut and nailed with a stapler.

The foam rubber is nailed on top with an overlap of approximately 3-4 mm.

When joining the foam rubber, an insert was used locally and by eye (it will not be noticeable):

Next comes the leatherette upholstery. No glue, just smoothing by hand. The leather substitute was purchased to be of high quality. It is soft to the touch and, as it turned out, quite wear-resistant.

This is how the side around the leg was finished. Bottom view: (This is exactly that leg, in a crooked corner. This thickening is the wooden insert).

The leatherette was lined at the bottom with a slouch, without turning up. The width of the overlap is equal to the width of the slats that will hold the plywood bottom. At the top it was lined with a collar for beauty. I haven’t figured out how to start the corners yet...

The corners were brought in and secured. If there was leather, maybe it would be stretched beautifully with small folds.

This is what it looks like from the outside:

I turned all the corners. It turned out soft and rounded. At this stage I glued a strip of linoleum onto the support board.

I covered the ugly corners of the middle board with the remains of leatherette:

I check the tight fit of all four legs and the support board to the orthopedic base. ( Note: The middle board is difficult to fit in one go. Do not rush to screw all the screws into the corners, screw 2-4 at a time and check the fit of the base).

The next stage is slats for the plywood bottom. I screwed slats with a section of 25x40 along the entire internal perimeter. Drill large holes in the rail for self-tapping screws.

Son Andrey helps. He lubricates the screws in soap, places them in the batten and hits them with a hammer so that the screw fits into the board. And I just twist:

Almost done…

The entire perimeter from the inside is edged with a strip.

Stepping back by eye, I installed the gas lifts on the base:

The bolt closest to the edge is between the 1st and 2nd lamellas of the base ( Note: It's far away, because... when opening, the base rested against the legs and did not rise).

Not working option:

I had to move the gas lifts themselves as close to the legs as possible. Corrected, working version.

We install it ourselves gas shock absorbers.

Then I bought S=6mm plywood, sanded on one side. I cut it in place and placed it on top of the slats. And even partially filled the boxes. Seats - carriage.

Since the resulting roller on top of the side slightly overlaps the orthopedic base, when lowered the base holds and does not fly up.

Gas shock absorbers are selected depending on the weight of the orthopedic base + mattress. My gas shock absorbers are rated for 80 kg.

We ordered a mattress and it finally arrived. Moisture-resistant cover on top:

The mattress lies high and the gap between the mattress and the base is visible.

CONCLUSION: It is necessary to move the legs and the middle support board not by 60 mm, but by 90 mm. This will allow the mattress to fit more tightly into the base.

We raise the bed. There is no need to hold it - everything is balanced. It rises up on its own.

When raised, the mattress moves slightly downwards under its own weight.

The displacement of the mattress can be eliminated by installing a limiter to the orthopedic base:

All. The bed is ready. Estimated cost of materials (without mattress): 9 - 10 thousand rubles. We bought an expensive mattress because of back problems.

If in household find quality lumber or sheets laminated chipboard, much cheaper to assemble wooden bed do it yourself rather than buy it ready product V furniture store. We present to your attention several various projects and manufacturing instructions.

Design options - drawings and diagrams

For a skilled owner, the process of assembling a bed will not be a particular problem. Regardless of the type of product, the design is a power frame supported by legs and equipped with restrictive elements - a headboard and a backrest. The mattress is supported by transverse slats - lamellas.

Note. If necessary, the sleeping place can be supplemented drawers, lifting mechanism and side stops.

There are several bed options available for making at home:

• classic single;
• double;
• two-tier;
• a variety of cribs.

The most popular option is a soft double bed. Even a simple factory product assembled from laminated chipboard costs a lot of money. You can build a more reliable and cheap design made of wood, shown in the drawing.

Budget version of a double bed, made of laminated Chipboard thickness 16 mm, shown in the following diagram. Wood-based sheets in this design simultaneously play the role of legs, backs and stiffeners. The mattress tray does not have to be made from laminated chipboard; boards will also do.

Advice. Before you make a bed with your own hands, clearly decide on the dimensions. It is better to be guided by the mattress that you are going to buy. The minimum dimensions of the sleeping place are 190 x 150 cm.

The design of a single bed, assembled from solid wood, is similar to a double bed, only smaller in size. The product consists of a frame and two backrests with legs; the orthopedic mattress is placed on transverse slats, as shown in the sketch.

Helps save space in a small room bunk bed made of wood, shown in the drawing below. Its base is 4 racks made of timber, connected by two boxes and additional stiffeners. The structure can be assembled from chipboard, but the material consumption will be too large, since you will need a solid back wall made of a single sheet.

Assembling a double bed

The easiest and cheapest way to make bedroom furniture is from wood - the material can be easily processed and decorated in a style that matches the design of the room. If you are an experienced craftsman who constantly works with metal, you can make the version with forged products shown in the photo.

We propose to assemble a simple wooden bed designed for two adults. Dimensions - 220 x 180 cm, internal dimensions for a high spring mattress - 2100 x 1700 mm. The design of the headboard is arbitrary; it is not necessary to repeat the decor shown in the photo.

Advice. It is also not necessary to repeat our instructions exactly. Select the dimensions individually and sketch out your own drawing according to your wishes. Keep in mind one subtlety: if you design the structure too low (or without legs), then it will not be easy to remove dust under it.

Preparing materials

To assemble a box with a pallet, which acts as a frame, you will need following materials:

• 15 blanks 220 cm long from dried timber 5 x 5 cm;
• 20 two-meter boards with a section of 120 x 20 mm;
• furniture glue(PVA will also work);
• zinc coated wood screws 3.5 x 40 and 3.5 x 65 mm;
• stain, clear varnish and brush.

Before assembly, surfaces and ends must be thoroughly sanded.

In addition to the standard carpentry tools it is advisable to acquire grinder, as a last resort, purchase an attachment for a drill. Boards and beams should be cut to the specified dimensions and all front parts of the timber should be sanded in advance.

Procedure

To create a frame from side panels 15 cm high, you need to fasten the beams together in 3 pieces, and then connect them using the tongue-and-groove method. The progress of making a double bed with your own hands looks like this:

Advice. Place 1-2 additional legs on the central panel to support the middle part of the bed.

When making a backrest at the headboard, show your imagination. You can make an unusual carved headrest attached to the wall, or assemble the backrest from sanded boards and varnish it. Master class on self-assembly double bed, watch the video:

A single bed is made in a similar way, only without a central crosspiece. Eat Alternative option: make 2 single beds with separate mattresses - if necessary, they can be moved together to create a full double bed.

Soft covering and installation of the lifting mechanism

To make the back of the product comfortable and similar to a sofa, you can make it from ordinary chipboard and make soft upholstery. Measure the finished panel and buy the required amount of foam rubber with a thickness of 10-20 mm plus upholstery fabric. The covering is done as follows:

Note. The upholstery technique will help to refine a bed made of chipboard. The assembly technology is simple: drawers and backs are cut out, which are then fastened with corners and screws. The supporting part of the mattress is made of wooden slats, as described above.

A folding bed allows you to store bed linen, pillows and other things inside the bed. What you need to do:

To organize an internal cabinet, it is advisable to make a pallet from sheets of plywood or fiberboard attached to the frame elements. How such a bed is made is described in the following video:

Useful and original additions

The folding bed, which has to be raised and lowered, can be replaced with drawers made from scrap materials - boards, chipboard or plywood. To implement your idea, you need to purchase a special furniture set, including wheels, guides and fasteners.

Manufacturing is carried out according to the presented drawing in the following order:

There are more original solution- installation makeshift bed on a high podium and the arrangement of ordinary opening cabinets underneath. For ease of climbing, a ladder is attached to the side of the fence, as shown in the diagram.

Transformable bed – excellent functional solution for a cramped apartment and a country house with small rooms. The idea is as follows: the bed is removed together with the mattress inside a wall-mounted chest of drawers or transformed into a cabinet using powerful lifting mechanisms. The task is complicated by the purchase similar devices And correct installation, which is best left to a specialist.

If you wish, you can implement a newfangled design sophistication - decorate the bed with a canopy. The photo shows an example of a double bed surrounded by high posts, which are united at the top by crossbars. The design is extremely clear - a spatial frame is assembled from bars, onto which translucent fabric is thrown.

Conclusion

The design of a homemade bed can be improved endlessly - making several tiers, adding bedside tables and shelves, changing the traditional shape to a round one, and so on. It all depends on the level of your skill, the availability of materials and imagination. The area of ​​the room plays an important role - it is difficult to place a large bed inside a small room. For such cases, 2-tier beds were invented, whose assembly is the topic of a separate publication.

Design engineer with more than 8 years of experience in construction.
Graduated from Eastern Ukrainian National University them. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronics Industry Equipment in 2011.

Metal barrels are often left on the site after completion. construction work and repairs. For some, it's just garbage or a simple water container. And for craftsmen and people with imagination, a metal barrel is an excellent material for creating useful and beautiful things that will be useful in the household.

The simplest option is a flowerbed in a painted barrel. You don’t need to put in much effort, and the end result will be very beautiful.

Which child can resist such a real train, where the barrels received steering wheels, seats and were put on wheels? The question is rhetorical, most likely, you will have to give rides to all the neighbor’s children, because your own will definitely boast about dad’s creation.

A metal barrel can become a spacious storage facility. If this version of a chest of drawers seems too brutal for your home, why not adapt a barrel for storing all kinds of tools in the garage.

A nest for laying hens in a barrel is also a good option for those involved in breeding poultry. Just don't forget about the bedding.

Furniture made from old metal barrels is a separate issue. What is not made from these items - chairs, garden benches, coffee tables, even sofas and bar stools.

A convenient and durable option for creating a sink stand in the country house or in the summer kitchen. If it is not possible to connect the water supply and drain, you can always adapt a metal barrel as a base for a washstand.

As we see, metal barrels- an excellent material for creating a wide variety of functional items. We hope our photo selection will inspire you to create something similar, and perhaps you will be able to do something even more creative!

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