Greenhouses made of arcs with covering material are the easiest way to protect plants from frost and weather changes. The design of such a greenhouse is extremely simple, and installation takes a matter of hours. Greenhouses can be purchased in stores in the form of sets of arcs different heights or do it yourself.
Arched greenhouses are arcs installed above the bed and covered with film or non-woven material. The height of the greenhouse can be from 0.5 to 1.3 m, which allows them to be used for different cultures. The width is 0.6-1.2 m, and the length depends on the number of arcs and the distance between them. The most popular greenhouses are 4.6 and 8 m long.
A greenhouse made of arcs is used for the following purposes.
- For growing heat-loving plants throughout the season. In this case, it is necessary to select a greenhouse of sufficient height and strength, with strong fastening of the covering material and convenient access to the plants. It is recommended to fence the bed with boards, slate or brick.
- For early planting and adaptation of seedlings heat-loving crops
:, pumpkins, watermelons and melons, peppers and. A greenhouse is installed as temporary protection from returning cold and night frosts in beds or inside permanent greenhouses. In addition to protection from the cold, the covering material protects delicate foliage from burns during the period of adaptation and hardening.
- For growing seedlings of cold-resistant vegetables and flowers: cabbage, marigolds, asters, as well as for growing early greens and radishes. In this case, the greenhouse is located in open ground or in a greenhouse.
- As a temporary shelter for crops with long term seed germination– carrots, parsley, dill, parsnips. Under cover, the seeds peck and sprout 2-3 times faster. After mass germination, the greenhouse is removed.
- To protect vegetables from massive pest attacks: onion and carrot flies, cruciferous flea beetles, butterflies. In this case, the greenhouse is installed for a short time, during the period of mass appearance of pests. Their departure dates vary, so the greenhouse will be in use throughout the season.
- To protect strawberries and wild strawberries from birds pecking berries. In this case, the ends of the greenhouse are left slightly open to provide ventilation.
Assembling and installing the greenhouse is very simple. Purchased sets of arcs and prefabricated greenhouses are equipped with pegs with which they (the arcs) are stuck into the ground. Non-woven fabric placed on top and secured with special clamps or available materials. In some greenhouse models, the arcs are already sewn into the material, which makes installation of the greenhouse easier. The arc installation step depends on the design and is usually 0.5-1.2 m.
Note! The distance between the arcs is chosen so as to prevent sagging of the film. In strong winds, sagging film can damage the tops of plants.
Industrial Arc Sets
The kits are arches made of insulated wire or pipes bent according to one template. The set usually contains 6 arches, they are designed for a tunnel shelter or a temporary greenhouse 4-6 m long. The dimensions of the arches - width and height - can be different, from 65 to 120 cm. The arches can also be sold individually - in this case, you can complete a set for greenhouse of the required length.
For the manufacture of arcs the following can be used:
- steel wire Ø5 mm in PVC sheath;
- steel tube Ø10-Ø12 mm in PVC sheath
- PVC pipe Ø20-Ø25 mm.
The wire and tube arches are rigid enough to maintain their shape for several seasons. PVC insulation protects them from corrosion, and pins at the ends make it easier to anchor them in the ground. The arcs are simply stuck into the ground to the required depth.
Arcs made from PVC pipes are more flexible, due to this you can adjust the width and height of the greenhouse. To secure it in the ground, you can use special pegs for PVC pipes or cutting reinforcement.
Special clamps are used to attach the covering material to the arches. To hold the canvas on the ground and protect it from the wind, you can purchase a set of pegs and rings. The pegs are stuck into the ground, covered with covering material and clamped with a ring. Covering material, sets of clamps and pegs, as a rule, are purchased separately, focusing on the number and size of the selected arches.
Note! Sets of arcs can be used to make a permanent greenhouse. To do this, it is enough to assemble a frame from boards and bars and attach the arcs to it.
Arched greenhouses for industrial production - review
The greenhouse kit usually includes arcs, crossbars, pegs for installation in the ground and clamps for covering material, and in some models the canvas itself. A greenhouse, unlike a set of arcs, is designed for a certain length of the bed, and the distance between them cannot be changed. The most common models of arched greenhouses industrial production are described below.
Greenhouse "Quickly ripened"
Prefabricated greenhouse with a wide variety of arc sizes. The width, depending on the model, can be 1.0 or 1.1 m; height – 1.2 or 1.6 m; length – 3 or 5 m.
The greenhouse kit includes:
- arcs made of steel wire in a PVC sheath, 4 or 6 pcs. depending on length;
- crossbars – 1 or 3 pcs.;
- clamps for attaching material to arches;
- pegs and rings for fastening to the ground.
The greenhouse is assembled quite quickly: the arcs are connected using crossbars, installed in place, and the covering material is secured using clamps and pegs. The light weight of the greenhouse allows it to be moved from place to place and used throughout the season for different crops.
Greenhouse "Quickly ripened"
On a note! An analogue of the “Skorospel” greenhouse is the “Fruit” greenhouse made of PVC pipes. It has the same dimensions and configuration, but differs in the frame material. The arches are fastened to the crossbars using special cross-pieces.
The greenhouse is made of galvanized profiles and pipes with dimensions of 1x1.1x5 m. It is characterized by high strength, easy assembly and durability. Can be used with both covering material and film.
The kit includes:
- arcs – 7 pcs.;
- arch extensions – 14 pcs.;
- crossbar – 1 pc. along the length of the greenhouse and 6 counter parts for attaching the film;
- clamps – 22 pcs.;
- free slats – 2 pcs. along the length of the greenhouse and 8 counter parts for attaching the film;
- nylon thread with hooks for attaching the ends;
- screws and nuts for assembling parts.
The greenhouse is assembled using screws and nuts according to the diagram supplied with the kit. There are holes in the parts for installation. The installation procedure is given below.
Step 1. Level the area for the greenhouse. If necessary, make a box from boards or lay a warm bed.
Step 2. Assemble the arches with extensions. The outer arcs are distinguished by their design - they have grooves for tensioning the nylon thread, which presses the covering material to the ends. Install them on a flat surface at a distance of 4.8-4.9 m, slightly recessed into the ground.
Step 3. A string is pulled between the outer arcs along the perimeter of the greenhouse at a height of 5-10 cm from the soil. The remaining arcs are set along it in increments of 0.8 m.
Step 4. The arches are connected by crossbars with screws and nuts. At the same time, the frame is aligned so that there are no noticeable distortions.
Step 5. Fix the film or covering material at the ends. To do this, cut out the fabric according to the size of the end with allowances of at least 20 cm on all sides. Apply it to the end and temporarily fix it with clamps or clothespins to the arches. The nylon thread from the kit is pulled in the grooves so that it presses the material, and secured with hooks at the ends of the arcs.
Step 6. Lay out a film or covering material on a flat surface, cut a cloth 5.2-5.3 m wide from it. Place the cloth on the greenhouse, level it and attach it to top bar using counter parts and clamps.
Step 7 Free slats are laid on both sides of the greenhouse, a film or covering material is inserted into them, and they are pressed with the counter parts using clamps.
To open the greenhouse, the film on the desired side is rolled up around the free rail and secured to the crossbar.
Note! The height of the greenhouse allows it to be used for cucumbers, peppers, and low-growing tomatoes. You can also grow seedlings, early greens, radishes and flowers in it.
A greenhouse made of HDPE pipes 6 m long and 1.2 m wide. Designed for growing heat-loving crops outdoors or early planting vegetable crops in the greenhouse. Easy and quick to assemble.
The greenhouse kit includes:
- arcs made of HDPE pipes Ø20 mm – 7 pcs.;
- legs for fastening in the ground L=25 cm – 15 pcs. (one spare leg);
- spunbond SUF-42 size 3x10 m – 1 pc.;
- clips for attaching covering material to pipes – 15 pcs.
The assembly of the greenhouse begins after preparing the beds. The arcs are bent to the desired radius, the legs are inserted into them and stuck into the ground. The soil in this place is lightly trampled. The installation step is 0.8 m. After installing all the arches, spread covering material over them, press them on all sides with boards, stones or plastic bottles with water. Clamps are used when necessary - for example, when caring for plants and watering.
Note! The strength of the greenhouse is low, since the kit does not include crossbars. When using it in areas with strong winds, it is recommended to install it on a frame with a crossbar and additionally secure the arches.
Greenhouses "Agronom" and "Dayas"
Both greenhouse models have a similar design. The arches are made of high-strength flexible plastic pipesØ20 mm. Greenhouse dimensions: width 1.1-1.2 m; height 0.8 m; length 4.6 or 8 m. The covering material included in the kit is dense and has one-sided protection from UV rays, which extends its service life. The peculiarity of these greenhouses is that the arcs are already sewn into the canvas, so the greenhouse is not afraid of wind and heavy precipitation.
These models include:
- arches sewn with covering material - 5, 7 or 9 pcs.;
- HDPE legs - 2 for each arch and 1 in case of loss;
- clamps – 2 for each arch.
Installing such a greenhouse is very simple. The legs are inserted into the arcs, the greenhouse is stretched so that the covering material is completely straightened, and the legs are stuck into the ground. Compact the latter. To serve the plants, the covering material is moved on the pipes and lifted, secured with clamps.
Greenhouse "Dayas" - description
Video – Greenhouse “Dayas”, installation
Note! The material used for these greenhouses is quite dense. It allows the sun and air to pass through, but does not allow water to pass through when it rains and when watering the material. Plants must be watered in the same way as in film shelters.
DIY arc greenhouse
If you have available materials, it is not at all necessary to spend money on a ready-made greenhouse - you can make it yourself. It is most convenient to make arches from water pipesØ20 mm. Suitable for greenhouse PVC pipes and HDPE, polypropylene and metal-plastic pipes. To strengthen the structure, it is recommended to install pipes on a wooden base.
The technology for assembling and installing a greenhouse made of arcs with covering material with your own hands is shown in Table 1.
Table 1. Greenhouse made of pipes on wooden base with your own hands.
| Steps, illustrations | Description of actions |
|---|---|
| The width of the greenhouse for double-sided maintenance is usually 1.2 m. The height depends on the plants being grown. For cucumbers, 0.8 m is enough, for peppers and short-growing tomatoes – 1.2 m, for eggplants and medium-sized tomatoes – 1.4 m. You can make a greenhouse according to your own size. The calculation is performed using the given formula. Example. With a greenhouse width of 1.2 m and a height of 1.4 m, the length of the pipes for the arcs will be: L = 3.14·(1.4+1.2/2)/2 = 3.14 m. |
| The base is made in the form of a box of boards 100-150 mm wide and 24-40 mm thick. For a permanent greenhouse, you can use 100x100 mm timber. The boards for the box are cut to size and connected using bars and nails or corners and screws. The box is installed in the chosen location and fertile soil is poured inside. |
| If strong winds blow in your area, the strength of the frame may not be enough. Gusts of wind will bend the arcs. In this case, it is better to immediately strengthen the greenhouse structure by installing posts at the ends and placing a crossbar on them. Holes are made in the crossbar slightly larger than the diameter of the pipes; arcs are inserted into them, which are fixed in the ground or on the base. |
| There are several ways to install the arches on the base. One of them is shown in the figure. Pipe sections of larger diameter (Ø25 mm) are attached to the base using clamps or perforated metal tape. Pre-bent arches are inserted into them. The good thing about this method is that the installation/disassembly of the arches can be done in a matter of minutes, without resorting to the use of tools. |
|
Greenhouses covered with polycarbonate are considered to be the “elite” greenhouses. This polymer material, of course, has its advantages, but the film also has a number of qualities superior to polycarbonate:
- it is much cheaper than polymers;
- mold does not form on it;
- light transmittance is not lost over time;
- does not block ultraviolet rays;
- Some types of film are as durable as polycarbonate.
Modern film manufacturers try to take into account all fair complaints from users about this material. The consumer is not satisfied with the insufficient resistance of the film to precipitation, the formation of condensate drops on the inner surface, and the sagging of the material due to stretching.
As a result of “working on mistakes”, the following types of film appeared:
- stabilized hydrophilic;
- unstabilized polyethylene;
- heat retaining;
- reinforced polyethylene;
- copolymer ethylene vinyl acetate;
- polyvinyl chloride.
The hydrophilic film allows condensate to drain without the formation of drops. Water does not collect above your head, and most importantly above the plants.
Reinforced film It is characterized by increased durability - it can last 7-8 seasons.
Ordinary unstabilized - does not differ in such characteristics. Therefore, if a greenhouse covered with this film provides for year-round cultivation of crops, then without gas boiler, to increase CO 2 and reduce humidity is indispensable.
EVA film also has increased strength due to its multi-layer nature. It is impossible to cover the greenhouse with it without an additional 4-5 pairs of assistants’ hands. The greenhouse is covered with a solid heavy canvas. But the casing is surprisingly strong and durable, holds heat well all year round. Fastening such a multilayer film has its own characteristics:
- The first layer is attached, as usual, to the top of the frame.
- The next one should be at a distance of 7-10 centimeters from the first and located inside the frame.
- The last layer is nailed with strips of conveyor belt onto the additional crossbars of the internal posts. The crossbars that are nailed to the posts must be 2 m in the middle and at least 1.20 m at the edges of the greenhouse.
This creates a “thermos” effect indoors. Even in the harshest winter, additional heating of the greenhouse will not be needed. With the arrival of heat, the third layer of film can be dismantled.
Rules for attaching film to a greenhouse
It is very convenient and reliable to cover the greenhouse using a conveyor belt. It is cut into strips of 2-3 centimeters and nailed with ordinary nails.
The film is nailed onto the frame not directly, but through a wooden bead or strip. But if the film on the frame and glazing bead is held in place only by nails, there is a danger that the wood will dry out over time. This will cause the tension to weaken and the coating to sag. This can be avoided by wrapping a polymer film around wooden slats and secured with packing tape. The tape must be pressed against the film and secured with a construction stapler. It is better to use 6-8 cm staples. When working with reinforced film, it is better not to use nails, but to secure it with the staples of a furniture stapler.
It is necessary to choose the correct degree of film tension. Too much tension - it will soon break, too little - it will sag and become deformed. For optimal tension of the film material, you can use a polypropylene cord. In increments of 1 meter, in the letter Z, the cord is attached over the film. Instead of a propylene cord, you can use a rope or a rubber band.
You can avoid the problem of condensation dripping from the film onto the plants by providing unique grooves made of the film for water drainage. It is necessary to place a film between the posts so that a natural drain is formed.
The metal frame of the greenhouse wears through polyethylene very quickly. You can significantly slow down the process by wrapping the frame with fabric in problem areas or cover them with tape. When using a polymer frame, such problems are not observed.
Another drawback metal structure– it gets very hot in the sun, and the temperature in the greenhouse rises to undesirable levels. If metal elements paint with light paint, the heating will be less. However, paint will not help prevent the film from rubbing off. To solve both problems together, you can put light-colored plastic pipes on metal racks. Instead of plastic pipes, you can use rubber hoses or bicycle tires. You just need to pre-paint them White color. A light coating of the metal reduces its heating by half. At the same time, we must not forget that the wooden frame does not heat up and does not wipe the film.
Low-budget version of a homemade greenhouse under film
The simplest and cheap option self-built dacha building– “film” greenhouse of arched design. The sequence of actions for its manufacture is as follows:
- Any structure begins with a foundation. Vertical metal sections of pipe, approximately 40 centimeters long, are dug into the ground. A tee is welded to the end lowered into the ground; it will act as an anchor. A crosspiece is welded to the free end. An 80-centimeter piece of pipe is attached to one wing of the cross. The same distance will be later between the arches. The entire structure is welded in detail in line. Its length is equal to the estimated length of the greenhouse.
- Greenhouse installation. Placed horizontally in a shallow groove bottom harness and digs in a little. An arched rod is welded into the crosspiece of the foundation pipes (also vertically). A length of 5.5 meters will be sufficient. The second end of the rod is welded to the opposite harness.
- Strengthening the structure. It requires boards 25 mm thick and 10 cm wide. The boards must be treated with an antiseptic. The reinforcement is attached to the frame longitudinally.
- Installation of the greenhouse ridge. Two wooden planks screwed with self-tapping screws to each arch along the entire length of the greenhouse. One strip is external, the other is internal.
- Greenhouse covering. It is necessary to cover the top of the greenhouse with the selected film and secure it using one of the methods discussed above. The free hanging ends of the film are buried in the ground.
- In pre-selected places in the structure, doorways and vents are cut and installed.
More recently, greenhouse craftsmen have discovered another material suitable for constructing a “green house”. This is a regular coarse mesh metal grid. It serves as an excellent frame for a film greenhouse. The wire from which the mesh is made is light and bends well. Today it is actively used for portable structures. If mesh is chosen as the frame material, then the floor of the greenhouse is also made from it. For the floor, you can use a material with smaller but rigid cells.
Film is a universal phenomenon; it was originally invented as a means of packaging, but the versatility of this invention can hardly be overestimated. Its ability to transmit light and retain heat was immediately appreciated by gardeners and used in greenhouses.
Finally, an alternative to heavy, fragile and expensive glass has been found, yes, the film will not make it possible to operate a greenhouse or greenhouse all year round, but to start growing seedlings in natural soil, get a harvest a month or even two earlier, please, this is for her within power. This instruction will tell you how to choose a film, fix it and use it correctly.
There are many species, even more subspecies
In total, there are 4 main types:
- Ordinary polyethylene film. The most popular and, one might say, popular product. The most popular, since the price of the product is minimal, and the sleeve shape allows you to double the area of the covered surface. Such material is calculated for a year of operation, but we will tell you how to extend its service life using simple actions.
If you have decided to install a film greenhouse on your site, you will be faced with two tasks: what to make the frame from and how to cover the greenhouse with film. The solution to the second problem is directly related to the first, so the material for constructing the frame, as well as its shape, must be selected based on this.
The easiest way is to attach the film to wooden base. Therefore, the most common in country houses and personal plots These are just such designs, but one should not exclude other materials - plastic and metal, the main advantage of which is durability.
First, you need to decide on the purpose of the greenhouse and the timing of its use. The choice of film depends on this.
If you plan to use the shelter all year round or from early spring to late autumn, the film for covering the greenhouse must be strong and durable, able to withstand temperature changes and the weight of the snow cover. In this case, it is recommended to use .
For spring shelters intended to protect young plants from frost and bad weather, you can use simpler material, the price of which is adequate for one-time use.
Material calculation
The required amount of film can be easily determined by knowing its width in the roll. To do this, the length of the frame is measured and the resulting figure is divided by the width of the material - this gives the number of sheets needed for the shelter.
It is necessary to take into account that the canvases are laid overlapping on the frame.
Note. The film in a roll can be wound in one or two layers. In the second case, it is a sleeve that can be cut along the fold and get a fabric twice as wide.
The length of each canvas is determined by the length of the arc (for arched structures) or the sum of the lengths of all sides in cross section(for designs with pitched roof) plus 10% for fixation around the perimeter.
Multiplying required amount canvases by their length, we get the final figure - how many meters of film will you need to cover the top of the greenhouse. But, since the greenhouse also needs to be covered with film from the ends, we calculate their area and add it to the resulting amount.
Rules for constructing film greenhouses
To avoid having to redo the work twice, follow these recommendations:
- Do not pre-cut the film to length. Throw the roll from one side to the other. Then stretch it, add 20-25 cm to the fastening on each side, after which you can cut it off.
- Cut all the strips in the same way. Lay them overlapping on a flat surface and glue them on both sides with transparent tape.
Advice. In order for the tape to fix the joints well, the film for covering greenhouses must be clean, without traces of dust, and its edges should preferably be degreased.
- When cutting out parts for the ends, leave overlaps on all sides.
- To prevent the film from sagging later, you should not attach it at low air temperatures. On the other hand, if you do this in extreme heat, then when it gets colder it may break due to tension.
For this, choose moderately warm weather without strong winds.
The result of excessive tension
- To make the film last longer, cover the greenhouse shortly before planting plants in it. And so that the earth in it has time to warm up, you can spread a black film at the place where it is installed, pressing it well around the perimeter.
After completing all preparatory work You can proceed directly to attaching the greenhouse (see). You will learn how to do this by watching the video or reading the next chapter.
Methods of fastening to the frame
Some modern covering materials are strong enough that they can be sewn together without fear of tearing at the seam. From these, using the measurements taken from the frame, you can sew a removable cover with your own hands, which will only need to be secured at the bottom.
Usually, for this purpose, an overlap is left on the ground, which is pressed down with a beam or covered with soil. The embankment must have a slope from the walls of the greenhouse to drain rainwater.
Closing the frame
If you use it, there may be several options for attaching it to the frame. But first, the finished canvas, glued along the length of the frame, is thrown over the greenhouse and stretched well.
The edges of the canvas should hang down at the ends on both sides. A strong strip or beam is placed along one of the long sides on the edge, carefully wrapped and attached to the base of the frame with self-tapping screws or nails.
Advice. If the beam is heavy enough and the covering must be removable, it is not necessary to fasten it. You can also sprinkle with earth to eliminate cracks.
In order to do the same on the other side, you will need an assistant, since it is difficult to cover the greenhouse with film yourself - it needs to be stretched evenly. After that, all that remains is to sheathe the doors and windows, close the ends and connect the joints with tape.
Fastening
The method of fastening depends on the frame material:
- TO wooden frame the covering is fixed with nails or self-tapping screws through thin slats or staples through felt, plastic packaging tape, or a strip cut from old linoleum;
- To plastic or metal pipes the film is secured with special clips of a suitable diameter, which can be bought in a store or made independently from scraps;
- Alternatively, the covering can not be attached to the frame at all, but a mesh or twine can be stretched over it. The main thing is to fix it well at the bottom along the perimeter of the greenhouse.
Particular care must be taken when covering door frames and transoms with film, since these are the most frequently used structural elements. To prevent the material from rubbing or tearing, the film must be wrapped around the door frame, secured to it through the lining, and the end parts covered with felt or rubber tape.
Advice. Most often, the film breaks precisely at the points of contact with the frame due to its heating or rough surface. Therefore, all its elements must be smooth, without sharp corners or protrusions.
To prevent excessive heat (especially metal frame), the instructions recommend painting it white or wrapping all structural elements in light fabric.
Conclusion
Knowing how to cover a greenhouse with film, you can save a lot on your purchase finished design, its delivery and assembly. For many summer residents who grow flowers and vegetables not for sale, but for their own needs, this is very important.
Film is the cheapest and affordable option greenhouse coverings. However, some modern varieties Not only are they strong and durable, but they also promote plant growth and productivity. In this article we will introduce you to various types greenhouse film.
This type of greenhouse covering has the following advantages:
- low cost. Although the price varies depending on the type, this material is still cheaper than polycarbonate or glass;
- ease. This material is convenient for covering portable structures;
- ease of mounting and dismantling;
- transmits sunlight well;
- Suitable for structures of any shape.
Many modern types of greenhouse film have improved strength and heat saving properties. We will consider their specific advantages below.
Disadvantages include:
- fragility;
- most types do not allow moisture to pass through;
- accumulated static electricity attracts dust;
- Some varieties tend to stretch and sag.
Types of films
Now let's look at what types of greenhouse film there are.
Ordinary polyethylene film
Polyethylene film for greenhouses it is the cheapest and short-lived covering option. Depending on the thickness and weather, it can last from several months to one season. It is removed for the winter. Polyethylene film transmits up to 90% of light, but accumulates drops of condensation, is prone to dust, quickly stretches and breaks, and does not retain heat well.
Light-stabilized hydrophilic film
Light-stabilized film for greenhouses is more resistant to mechanical damage and can last up to 3 years without removal for the winter. It releases heat slowly, making it suitable for growing delicate crops. Inhibits the development of viruses, pathogenic fungi and harmful insects.
The hydrophilic additives included in its composition help remove condensation outside. Dust accumulates on it much more slowly. It can be almost transparent with a slight bluish tint or colored, intended for hot regions and protecting plants from overheating.
Thickness: 100-200 microns.
According to reviews, it allows moisture to pass through and acrylic coating, but it is less durable.
Heat-retaining film with phosphor
Greenhouse film with a phosphor is capable of converting UV radiation into infrared, thereby additionally heating the plants (there are 40-60% more red and blue waves). It retains accumulated heat for a long time and cools slowly at night. average temperature in such a greenhouse it is 3-4 °C higher than in other film greenhouses.
However, it is still not suitable for year-round growing of plants, since winter greenhouse It is better to cover it with polycarbonate or glass. Thanks to the scattering effect, it does not burn the leaves. Suppresses the development of dangerous microorganisms.
Service life: 2-2.5 years.
Film "Svetlitsa"
This greenhouse film is very durable, flexible, transmits 95% of visible light and 80% of ultraviolet. Withstands cold down to -80 °C, without tanning or cracking. Does not deform or tear due to showers, moderate hail and wind (up to 18 m/sec). This is a long-term (up to 7 years) option.
Holds heat well and softens temperature changes. It does not remove moisture outside, but does not create drops: water flows evenly down the walls. The edges tend to stick together, providing a tight seal. If necessary, they are easily separated. If you're not interested in growing plants year-round, this cover is worth a look. Special attention, since covering a summer greenhouse with polycarbonate will be more expensive, but not much more profitable.
The roll width can be 1.5 or 2 m. Thickness: 120-200 microns.
There is also a variety called “Svetlitsa Yuzhanka” - due to its reflective qualities, it is well suited for regions with aggressive sun.
PVC film
This variety has light-stabilizing functions, that is, it provides additional heating for the plants, but it is transparent, without a characteristic bluish tint. Transmits up to 90% of visible light. Keeps warm well. Lets air through. PVC coating is dense and at the same time elastic: it can stretch 1.5-1.7 times, after which it restores its original shape. This is especially important for greenhouses with a flat roof that is prone to water accumulation.
This film is resistant to mechanical damage and cracking, has antistatic properties that prevent dust. Resistant to damage due to hail and strong winds. Lasts up to 4 years without removal from the frame. Proper disposal is necessary: burning PVC coating is strictly prohibited, as it releases dangerous gas.
Reinforced polyethylene film
One of the most durable varieties. It consists of two layers of light-stabilizing material, between which there is a frame made of fiberglass, polypropylene or twisted polyethylene. Transmits up to 80% of light. In addition to transparent, matte white, green and blue colors are allowed. The yellowed film was stored incorrectly or was initially defective.
Consists of three layers: top and bottom - smooth, inner - with air bubbles. Softens sudden temperature changes and retains heat well. Suitable for spring greenhouses, as well as winter ones in regions with a very mild climate (in cold areas, for year-round use, it is still preferable to cover the greenhouse with polycarbonate).
Light-transforming additives have a beneficial effect on the growth rate and productivity of plants, accelerating ripening by 10-15%. No condensation forms on the walls, the water drains away immediately. Damage to one bubble does not affect the others. No insects or debris get inside. Without removal from the frame it can last 3-5 years.
Film thickness can be 4, 6, 8 and 10 mm, roll width - 1.2 or 1.6 m, length - 25 or 50 m. Due to the small width, gluing may be required. Please note that regular bubble film packaging does not contain any special additives or top smooth layer, preventing the accumulation of debris.
How to extend the life of film
In order for the coating to fully work out the period stated by the manufacturer, it is important to follow a number of instructions:
- The corners and folds of the structure are taped in advance. Do the same with the bend of the film sleeve.
- Contaminants are washed off with a gentle stream of water or cleaned with a soft sponge. If necessary, you can use dishwashing liquid.
- Small punctures are sealed with tape in 2-3 layers. In case of major damage, change the sector.
- In winter, you need to regularly remove snow from the surface. It is better to remove the film from a relatively flat roof before the onset of winter.