How to replant a bush. When and how best to replant shrubs

Popular spring bushes in the garden - decorative and fruit. Read: When to replant shrubs in spring?

Shrubs are replanted in the garden during redevelopment, if it is necessary to update and treat the plant or if the planting site was chosen poorly. When to replant shrubs in the spring?

Planting of fruit bushes is carried out in the fall, if the winter period allows young, immature plants to withstand cold weather. Woody flowering shrubs are planted in the spring, flowering, more delicate species - in late spring. It is better to replant shrubs in the spring How the earth warms up and a comfortable air temperature is established. During the same period, grown in containers basics for planting. Remember that shrubs vary by flowering period. Early – viburnum, wolf berries, rowan, Further– serviceberry, forsythia, quince, almond, and finally- spirea, lilac. In summer, barberry, scumpia, hibiscus, deutzia, etc. already bloom. Accordingly, the earlier the shrub blooms, the earlier it is replanted.

When to replant shrubs in spring:

In early spring before sap flow begins;
On warm soil;

Before transplanting shrubs, the gardener should have time to prepare the ground, form a planting site, renew fertilizers, and move the shrubs.

Preparing a site for transplanting shrubs in spring

Before digging a hole for replanting shrubs in the spring, the soil is fertilized and loosened. When planting plants from containers - suddenly the shrubs are just starting to live in your garden - you need to take into account their history: did they spend their whole lives like this, waiting for the bright hour of planting, or were they moved for a while for transportation? In peat mixtures– easy to transport – the root system of many shrubs dries out quickly. Taking into account the available indicators, land preparation is carried out.

Shrubs growing in the garden are removed with a shovel, wrapped in polyethylene or a bag, and transferred to a new planting hole, which the gardener has to make.

Land for replanting shrubs in spring:

Loose, well-drained soil;
40% sand – steamed;
Pour fertilizer into the hole according to the size of the roots: 70 grams of lime, 30 grams of mineral fertilizers per m2;

Step-by-step replanting of shrubs in spring

Landing location fertilized and cleared of weeds. After a week, a hole is dug to the size of the bush. On the day of transplantation, the shrub is removed from the old hole using a garden shovel, trimmed and processed as necessary.

Pack the root system You can wrap it in burlap or film: transfer it to a pre-spread place, wrap the roots. Drag or move the bush to a new hole in which fertilizer has already been placed. If the bush needs to be given a stimulus, then the planting hole is dug one and a half times larger than the previous one - in width and depth.

Before as replant shrubs in spring, fluff the material at the bottom. If you forget to fertilize, use ingredients that you often have on hand - compost, for example. Fill the bottom of the hole, pour a small layer of soil from the site on top.

The transplant is carried out, both small and mature shrubs, so do not forget to take care of the base - drive a stake or build a lattice along which the bush is supposed to branch.

Place the plant vertically, exposing the roots, tying the base to the support, if necessary, and fix the root hole with a mound of earth for stability. The entire hole for replanting shrubs must be filled with earth.

Shed after transplanting the shrub in the spring with water, covering +15 cm around the hole.

↓ Write in the comments about your replanting of shrubs in the spring.

How to replant shrubs.

How and when to replant trees and bushes correctly

Is it possible to replant a tree or bush in the summer?

In case of emergency, trees can be replanted at any time of the year, observing the following rules:

The tree to be transplanted should be removed from the ground on a foggy or rainy day.

The holes are dug several months before planting and filled with half-rotted manure or good compost.

Transplanted trees must be healthy.

When digging up a tree, its strong roots are first exposed as far as possible. Then they dig a semicircular ditch on one side of the tree, the width being half the length of the roots.

If large thick roots are no longer found, then they dig under the tree and cut off the main core of the roots.

When the tree is dug up on one side, then all the roots are cut off on the opposite side, tilting the tree to the side from which it has already been dug up. Then the tree is removed from the ground, having first wrapped it in burlap or tarpaulin and tied it with ropes.

The planting holes should be twice the size of the space the roots will take up. The roots are straightened horizontally and covered with soil. When backfilling, the tree is shaken as much as possible, and after backfilling, the soil is trampled down and watered abundantly.

The weak part of the tree should face south.

There is another way to replant trees in the garden.

To do this, dig a hole of the appropriate size, but not less than 1.5 m in diameter, and fill it halfway with water (method of planting in a mash). Then soil and humus are added. All this is shaken until an earthen mash is formed, into which the tree is planted. Then the hole is filled up and watered again. The mash is needed so that all the voids between the roots are filled with soil. The stakes (preferably on three sides) are placed further into undisturbed soil and the tree is strengthened with ropes. A tree planted in this way must be watered 1-2 times a week, depending on the weather and soil conditions.

After planting, or even better before transplanting, all branches of the crown are cut in half, roots damaged by a shovel are smoothly trimmed with a knife.

After replanting, it is advisable to tie the trunk and main branches with moss to protect the tree from sunlight. It is useful to mulch the soil around the tree with straw manure to maintain its moisture.

Still more preferable autumn way The time for transplantation at the dacha is now.

Reader Tips:

How to properly transplant a large, large tree (large-sized)

Having received a plot, the newly minted gardener strives to plant everything at once. And more! But ten years pass, and the incorrectly planted apple trees turn into a forest. This is where the problem of choice arises: either an ax or a transplant. And the tree is already many meters long...

Transplanting large trees (this is what trees older than 10 years are called) without the appropriate equipment is not an easy task. But if you have two or three pairs of hands, it is possible. Dig the tree within a radius of 0.6-0.8 m from the trunk, cut off the roots. Then “hand-to-hand” (or with a winch) lay the tree on its side (without lifting!), cutting off the vertical roots by at least half a meter. Fill the resulting hole level with the surrounding soil. Then spread a tarp (or something similar) over the area. Turn the root ball over onto the bedding, turning the tree upright. And then drag your new settler to his new place of residence.

My husband and I replanted trees in November - a cherry tree at the age of 8 years and an apple tree at the age of 15 years. The area where they were growing was getting shaded, so we decided to move them into the sun. There was a risk, of course. But, as they say, who doesn’t take risks...

We prepared holes in advance, deeper than those in which our trees were originally planted. They poured humus onto the bottom, always two shovels of clay (there is no stagnation of water in our area, and clay retains moisture), and sprinkled it with a little earth.

They dug up the trees - they dug at a distance of 80 cm from the trunk, and cut off the long roots. They barely managed to drag the “immigrants” to the new place. We planted them 10 cm deeper than usual and made a bowl-type depression so that rainwater flowed right under the trees. Finally, watered generously. This was in the last days of November. December was humid, with occasional rain. Perhaps because of this the trees did not get sick. We began to wait for spring.

Imagine our surprise when in the spring we saw swollen buds, and then abundant flowering - the cherry and apple trees took root!

In the spring, I watered the apple tree with 2-3 buckets, or even more, in this “bowl”, since it needed moisture so that the flowers did not fade. And in the summer, during fruiting, I watered it on dry days. I did this in the evenings. When setting and ripening fruits, moisture is needed. We took water from a pond, which is not far from our garden.

They worked, watered it and it took root. Seedlings benefit from water in the hot summer - it is absorbed into the ground, moistening it abundantly, and everything around them grows. You just need to make sure that the puddle is not under the tree. If your area is too low, I advise you to make drainage at the bottom of the hole so that the roots do not rot.

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Garden and cottage › Tips for summer residents › How and when to replant trees correctly

When is the best time to replant trees and shrubs?

When is the best time to replant trees and shrubs? Let's consider how and when you can replant fruit trees, ornamental trees and shrubs, as well as conifers.

The end of summer - the beginning of autumn is a good time for planting and replanting plants, both fruit and ornamental. In order for new plants to take root well and overwinter successfully, you need to follow some Rules.

Plant plants with an open root system from the first ten days of April to the second ten days of May and from the second ten days of August to the first ten days of September. When planted at this time, the plants have time to take root and overwinter well.

When planting, trim off the plants' inflorescences and some leaves, especially large leaf blades, to prevent excessive evaporation and moisture loss.

It is advisable to carry out digging and planting in a new place in one day.

After planting or transplanting, the plants are watered and treated with growth stimulants.

Do not plant plants together with the container; carefully remove the container without destroying the plant.

Do not deepen the root collar of trees and shrubs, especially grafted forms.

When is the best time to replant fruit trees?

It is better to plant and replant fruit trees at the age of 1 - 5 years. If older plants are transplanted, then planting is carried out with a clod of earth approximately equal to the diameter of the crown, packed in a chain-link mesh or burlap, and also using special equipment. This technology is called “large planting”.

Conducted in late autumn, winter and early spring, with the exception of summer.

When landing and transferring fruit plants with an open root system, it is necessary to maintain high humidity in the area of the root system so that the small overgrown roots do not dry out. The root system needs to be shortened by about 1/3 so that the roots develop better. When transplanting fruit trees, be sure to trim the above-ground parts in order to balance the crown and root system.

When planting plants in containers, it is important not to destroy the lump and not to bury the root collar to avoid the formation of a large number of shoots.

When is the best time to replant ornamental trees and shrubs?

The highest survival rates are in plants with a closed root system. They can be planted at any time, with the exception of winter. Read more about planting seedlings in containers.

When planting plants with an open root system, it is necessary to slightly trim the above-ground and underground parts. After this, the plants require regular, but moderate watering. It is advisable to carry out 2-3 sprayings of “Epin” or “Zircon” on the leaves with an interval of 7-10 days - to relieve post-transplant stress in plants. In the first winter after planting, all crops undergo a light
shelter so that the plants overwinter better and take root.

When is the best time to replant conifers?

They can also be planted at any time, provided that the plants are grown in containers. Coniferous plants with an open root system are practically not sold, since their survival rate is extremely low. When planting, plants are watered at the root and treated with stimulants containing iron and silicon - Ferrovit and Siliplant.

Even more interesting articles on the site:

Transplanting currants to a new place in autumn and spring when possible

Situations that require transplanting currants to a new location

Great stress for the plant

- Selection and preparation of a site
After care

When is it better to transplant currants to a new place: in autumn or spring, in which month?

In regions with harsh winters

Spring transplant

The timing of currant transplantation depends entirely on the climatic conditions of the region.

They prefer to replant in the fall

Stages of proper transplantation of an adult bush

Selection and preparation of a site

Compost or manure 10 kg;
Double superphosphate 10 g;
Potassium chloride 7 g.

In spring or autumn, prepare a hole for transplantation: 40 cm deep and 70 cm wide, fill it with substrate

A depth of 40 cm and a width of 60 cm is sufficient.

From mixed components:

The top layer of garden soil from the pit;
Rotted manure or compost 10 kg;
Superphosphate 300 g (for black currants) 200 g (red, white);
Wood ash 400 g or potassium sulfate 30 g.

After that The hole is spilled with 1-2 buckets of water

Transplanting currants:

Preparing red and black currant bushes

2-3 weeks before the upcoming event, trim

At the base of the bush

On the top

There is no point in leaving outdated branches on the bush

You can transplant it to another place!

For the convenience of the event Currant branches are tied like a spindle

Further Inspect the roots, clean them of pests, cut off dried and rotten areas

At the bottom of the planting hole Form a mound from the prepared substrate and spill 1-2 buckets of water

It is also taken into account that The root collar of the bush should remain 5 cm below the surface of the substrate.

When replanting, you need to take into account that the root collar of the bush is 5 cm below the surface of the substrate

The surface is compacted and A hole for watering is formed around the tree trunk circle.

After care

Clean the tree trunk circle from plant debris;
Lay a layer of peat or straw mulch at least 15 cm in height;
Cover the trunk with spruce branches;
Spray with fungicides;
The branches are collected towards the center and tied with twine;
They pull snow towards the bushes.

Currants are prepared for winter: the trunk circle is cleared of plant debris, the branches are collected towards the center and tied with twine

Regular watering every other day will be required.

A Insecticides and fungicides can help with this

How to transplant a currant bush without risk, part 2.

How to replant shrubs.

If you are bored with the usual look of your garden, you can always make interesting changes by transplanting ornamental shrubs to a new location. And the reason could be - just a change of mood or if the plant has grown and you found a new one for it cozy place in your garden.

Transplanting a “large-sized” planting material has been practiced in world gardening for a very long time. The need to replant shrubs appears if you want to change the appearance of the garden or transplant the plant to a more suitable place. In addition, shrubs are replanted if they have grown greatly and there is not enough space for them in a given area, however, I already said this at the very beginning.

It is recommended to replant in the spring or autumn when they are in the dormant stage. Plants transplanted at this time take root better. In the spring they are replanted after the soil opens, and in the fall at a time so that they have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. Before transplanting shrubs with climbing shoots, tie them with braid or put a bag on the bush. It is easiest to replant shrubs that have been growing in the garden in one place for no more than a year. Otherwise, the transplant will be very complicated. If possible, refrain from replanting adult shrubs, as such specimens do not tolerate transplantation well and take root less well.

Shrubs take root well in a new place if you prepare them for replanting. Transplant them at the right time and provide them with proper care.

We select suitable site in the garden. This place must meet all the necessary requirements for both light and soil characteristics. Before planting, we carry out abundant pruning. If the location where you want to transplant the shrub is close to the area where it is currently growing, then the plant can be moved without packing its roots. If you need to move the bush over a considerable distance, I recommend packing its root ball in thick fabric. This will help us not to lose the soil that forms a lump on the roots of the plant, and it will also help to store the shrub for a while if you cannot plant it right away.

To prepare for replanting shrubs, I advise you to approach this issue with all responsibility. A month before transplanting the shrub, use a shovel to draw a circle around it. Before transplanting, water the bush well so that it is easier to dig out and the roots are saturated with moisture. Open the root ball on all sides or carefully dig it out, being careful not to damage the roots. Then we dig a planting hole at the intended location for future planting of the shrub. The hole should be twice as wide as the ball with the roots of the bush. The soil at the bottom of the planting hole will need to be loosened. We plant our shrub at the same depth at which it grew before transplanting. Form a watering circle and water the plant. Also water the plant when the soil dries to a depth of 5 cm. After watering, mulch the soil with a thick layer of suitable mulching material (cm one hundred mulches).

In the spring, a few weeks after planting, new shoots will appear on the bushes. At the same time, the plant develops new roots. In order for the plant to continue to develop well in the future, feed it. Can be added to water liquid fertilizer and carry out root feeding. If you transplanted the bush to a windy place, take care of reliable support; we install the support in such a way as not to damage the roots of our bush. As soon as the shrub takes root, you can remove the support; for a rooted shrub, the wind is no longer a hindrance.

And to summarize: the ideal time for replanting is early spring, as soon as the soil opens, before the plant begins to grow. Plants take root faster with regular watering and cool weather. In areas with cold climates and areas with clay soil, it is better to plant the plant in the spring. We replant in the fall; this is an alternative time for replanting shrubs. It is very important to plant the plants at a time so that they have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. If it rains in the fall, replant the plants after the soil dries out. That's all the secrets of good shrub transplantation. Good luck to you.

" Currant

In gardening practice there are often situations that require transplanting currants to a new location. Most often this is due to an error in choosing a location, depletion of the soil under the bush, or redevelopment of the site.

Transplanting an adult shrub to another place - great stress for the plant, which is accompanied by pain and often leads to his death.

Therefore, the procedure must be carried out taking into account biological features and the annual cycle of currants.

When is it better to transplant currants to a new place: in autumn or spring, in which month?

Which month is more favorable? The timing of currant transplantation depends entirely on the climatic conditions of the region. In regions with harsh winters When the air temperature drops below 30°C, spring transplantation is preferable.

But at the same time, it is important to take into account the characteristics of the annual cycle of a crop that enters the growing season early. After the start of sap flow, the shrub will receive a double load, trying to take root and at the same time increasing the green mass.

Spring transplant carried out after the soil has completely thawed, the temperature has risen to +1°C and before the buds swell. This limits the timing of transplantation and reduces the time for quiet rooting to three weeks.

There are many more favorable factors when transplanting currants in autumn. This is a stable temperature until the first frost, which gives time for the roots to adapt to a new location.

In addition, in the fall, currant cells contain much more nutrients and a downward current prevails, which contribute to the rapid healing of root wounds and give strength for recovery.

Therefore, in the middle and southern regions of gardening, shrubs prefer to replant in the fall. It is important to determine the most exact dates, there should be at least three weeks left before the first frost.

The ideal time for transplantation is the period between September 10-15, it is at this time that the most active growth of absorbed roots is observed. This factor significantly increases the survival rate of currants.

Stages of proper transplantation of an adult bush

The basis for successful transplantation of an adult shrub - right choice places, preparation of soil and bushes.

Selection and preparation of a site

Red and white currants are heat-loving plants. For them, leveled areas are selected, oriented to the south or southwest. In such areas the soil warms up sun rays, is well aerated and water does not stagnate.

Black and green currants less demanding plants. Good indicators of a stable harvest are observed when planting on slopes in a northern or northeastern direction. Short-term shading is acceptable.

The best predecessors of currants are row crops, which help clear the area of rhizomatous weeds. These are potatoes, beets, corn, buckwheat and beans.

Not suitable for growing lowland currants and closed basins where cold air stagnates and humidity increases. This contributes to the development of fungal diseases and the appearance of root rot.

The selected place is dug up in early spring to a depth of 40 cm with the application of fertilizers per 1 m2:

compost or manure 10 kg;
double superphosphate 10 g;
potassium chloride 7 g.

In the summer, in August, the site is dug up again and form a hole for bushes. For spring transplant the site is prepared in the fall.

When deciding on the size of the pit, they are guided by the volume of the bush. In most cases a depth of 40 cm and a width of 60 cm is sufficient. For tall and remontant varieties a depth of 60-70 cm will be required. The distance between bushes is at least 1.5 meters.

After digging, the hole is filled 1/3 with substrate. from mixed components:

upper layer garden soil from a hole;
rotted manure or compost 10 kg;
superphosphate 300 g (for black currants) 200 g (red, white);
wood ash 400 g or potassium sulfate 30 g.

For red and white currants, dig a hole deeper and at the bottom a drainage layer of expanded clay or broken brick is formed, no more than 15% of the total volume.

After that the hole is spilled with 1-2 buckets of water. Before transplanting the currants, all conditions will be created inside the hole for comfortable adaptation of the roots.

The substrate is structured and saturated with moisture, and the added minerals and organic matter will take forms that are easy for the plant to assimilate and will not cause burns to the roots.

Transplanting currants:

Preparing red and black currant bushes

During replanting, the volume of the roots of the shrub will significantly decrease, which makes it difficult for the vegetative mass to feed. Therefore, currants trimmed 2-3 weeks before the upcoming event, leaving only areas significant for fruiting and development. When planting in autumn, pruning can be done in the spring, before the buds swell.

At the base of the bush there is a branching zone. Strong side shoots grow from it; at a height of 30-40 cm, the fruiting zone begins, characterized by weak branching. The shoots here are short, but with developed flower buds, so most of the harvest is placed on them.

On the top The branches also produce fruit buds en masse, which are noticeably weaker and produce only small berries. Therefore, the main branches of the bush are cut by 1/3, without fear of harm to the next season’s harvest. After pruning, the average height of the currant should be 45-50 cm.

Productivity of currant fruit 5 years, there is no point in leaving outdated branches on the bush. The development of currants is hampered by tops, shoots and dried branches; these should also be removed.

You should not combine pruning shrubs with replanting. This is a double load for the plant, which will distribute forces to heal wounds and adapt roots to a new location. This can cause the death of currants.

You can transplant it to another place!

During replanting, a groove 30-35 cm deep is dug around the tree trunk circle, 40 cm away from the trunk. After this, you need to carefully pull the bush at the base of the branches, cut off the holding roots with a bayonet shovel.

For the convenience of the event currant branches are tied like a spindle. Additionally, this will protect against breakage of fruit branches. The dug up shrubs are placed on a tarpaulin for transportation to the planting site.

Further inspect the roots, clean them of pests, cut off dried and rotten areas. The disinfection procedure is carried out by placing the roots of the plant in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes.

A shrub with healthy roots is transplanted without pre-treatment.

At the bottom of the planting hole form a mound from the prepared substrate and spill 1-2 buckets of water. After this, wait until the water is absorbed. Planting in an environment that is too humid will lead to excessive shrinkage of the shrub, which often causes improper development.

It is also taken into account that the root collar of the bush should remain 5 cm below the surface of the substrate.

With respect to the cardinal directions, the currants are placed in the same way as before. Currant roots are distributed over the surface of the mound, preventing unnatural bends upward.

When filling the roots, make sure that no voids are formed., which often become the cause of decay. To do this, the bush is periodically shaken during the procedure.

The surface is compacted and a hole for watering is formed around the tree trunk circle. Water (20 l) is poured in gradually, waiting until completely absorbed. With this type of watering, the water completely covers the roots, increasing their contact with the soil.

After this, the tree trunk circle and hole are mulched with peat, humus or turf soil.

After care

After transplanting, the shrub will need the help of a gardener. The soil in the tree trunk circle is maintained in a constantly loose state. This is necessary to create an optimal balance of water and air for adequate nutrition and respiration of the roots.

At the base of the bush, loosening is carried out to a depth of 5-6 cm, closer to the watering hole up to 15 cm.

In autumn, the bush is prepared for winter:

clean the tree trunk circle from plant debris;
lay a layer of peat or straw mulch at least 15 cm in height;
cover the trunk with spruce branches;
spray with fungicides;
the branches are collected towards the center and tied with twine;
They pull snow towards the bushes.

In the first two weeks after planting, if there is no rain, will need regular watering every other day. In such a way that the soil is moistened to a depth of 60 cm. For this, 3-4 buckets of water are used.

In the first year, currants will not need fertilizing. After two weeks, the timing of irrigation is determined by the condition of the soil under the bush.

The crumbling of soil into small pieces after squeezing in your hand indicates the need for urgent watering. This indicator is used throughout the growing season.

Weakened shrubs are most attractive to pests and diseases, which is explained by a temporary loss of stability. Therefore, the gardener’s task during this period is complete control over the currants, especially in the first year of development.

A Insecticides and fungicides can help with this, which can be prepared from herbal ingredients or purchased ready-made preparations.

How to transplant a currant bush without risk, part 1:

How to transplant a currant bush without risk, part 2:

There is no clear answer to the question of when to replant a berry crop. Some gardeners argue that there is only one option - replanting currants in the fall, when there are no leaves, the movement of juice slows down, and the plant is ready for wintering.

The need to transplant currants arises in the following cases:

In each listed case, the transplantation rules and work procedure are similar.

Before answering the question of when you can replant currants, you should first choose a new place for the bush. This berry crop loves sunlight and warmth, so shaded areas cannot be used. If there is little heat and light, the number of berries will decrease, and the bush will be susceptible to various diseases. It is not recommended to put the plant's roots in very wet soil - it will not grow. It is better to choose moderately moist black soil containing some loam and, if possible, make drainage in the hole.

This berry crop loves sunlight and warmth, so shaded areas cannot be used.

It is not advisable for the bush to be on the second tier. Its leaves are susceptible to diseases, and the fungus found in most berry and fruit crops can harm the crop. Transplantation can be done on partially sandy soil - the bush grows and develops better in it. Carefully dig up the place where currants will grow in the future, remove all debris, weeds and roots of old plants.

Rules for transplanting currants

If you decide to replant a berry crop, carefully prepare for this process. The yield of the bush depends on the correctness of your actions.

In the selected area, you should dig holes, placing them at a distance of one to one and a half meters from each other. Fall asleep inside fertile soil, humus, potash, phosphate fertilizers or wood ash. The prepared soil should be nutritious and sufficiently loose. To transplant red currants, it is advisable to add sand to the soil and arrange drainage in the form of a small layer of crushed stone at the bottom of the hole. The size of the holes should be at least fifty centimeters wide and thirty centimeters deep, but it is better to focus on the size of the roots.

The size of the holes should be at least fifty centimeters wide and thirty centimeters deep, but it is better to focus on the size of the roots.

The berry crop needs to be prepared for replanting: young shoots are cut in half and old branches are cut to the ground. The bush is carefully dug up and taken out of the ground. There is no need to pull the shoots - this can damage the roots or branches. If it was not possible to remove the plant the first time, it is dug up again with one and a half to two bayonets of a shovel.

The berry crop needs to be prepared for transplanting

If the bush is healthy, it can be removed along with a lump of earth and replanted immediately. But if it is sick, carefully examine the roots, remove damaged and dry ones, and remove the larvae of pests and insects living in the root system of the plant. After this, treat the roots with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Pour a large amount of water into the hole so that the soil mixture looks like a liquid substance. Immerse the bush in the slurry and, holding it suspended, sprinkle it with dry soil five to eight centimeters above the root collar. Water again to compact the soil around the roots. The distance between the bushes should be at least one hundred and fifty centimeters so that they do not shade each other. The transplanted plant needs routine care: regular watering, spraying and nutritional feeding.

Pour a large amount of water into the hole so that the soil mixture looks like a liquid substance.

How to replant currants in the fall

For all gardeners, the relevant question is when is the best time to replant currants in order to quickly get a good harvest. In the northern regions, replanting is advisable in the spring, when the snow melts and the temperature outside is above zero. But if the bushes have already begun to grow, it is better to postpone replanting until autumn.

The procedure requires a certain patience, since the bush must shed its leaves and the sap flow in the shoots must stop. For middle zone The optimal period is mid-to-late October. In the north - two to three weeks later. If you move the bushes early, the currants may confuse the seasons and begin to grow and throw out buds. In winter they will freeze and weaken the plant. During dry and warm autumn, transplanted shrubs require constant watering.

Winter shelter is mandatory. You can pour three buckets of old humus mixed with leaves of ornamental trees into the base of the bush. By spring, a fertile and loose layer of soil will form around the plant, in which you can arrange a watering bowl. Shrubs planted in the fall become accustomed to the new location over the winter and take root in order to produce a harvest in the summer. If currant bushes are transplanted in the spring, they take a long time to take root and produce berries only after a year.

Transplantation in spring

During this period, the rooted cuttings are transplanted - they are transferred to a permanent place from the nursery trench. If the cuttings were planted in the fall, in the spring they will be twigs with two or three leaves.

If the plant was cut from spring, by the time of transplantation well-developed bushes with two or three shoots should form. They are very easy to replant, but the plant must be dug up along with a lump of earth to minimize the risk of damage to the roots. Bushes transplanted in spring require proper care and good watering throughout the summer. Mature shrubs are replanted as early as possible - in mid or late March.

In summer, replanting currants is not advisable, but possible. Mature bushes need to be dug up with a ball of earth - it should be as large as possible. To carry it to a new place, use basins, buckets and boxes. They need to be selected taking into account the size of the roots. After planting the shrub in a prepared hole, water it thoroughly for several days.

To carry it to a new place, use basins, buckets and boxes.

Seedlings from containers can be transplanted at any time of the year. It is important to provide them good watering, fertilizing and fertilizers using ammonium nitrate. Immediately after planting, the area should be mulched using peat, compost, humus or sand - they will help retain moisture. If the planting holes are prepared well, fertilizing will be needed only after a year.

Regardless of the time of the procedure, it is necessary to cut off as much of the vegetative mass as possible from the transplanted bushes, and leave two or three buds for propagation.

If the planting holes are prepared well, fertilizing will be needed only after a year.

Otherwise, the plant will slow down and take a long time to gain momentum.

Abundant watering is required. For the first two weeks, you can safely create a swamp, that is, keep the roots in water. The longer this process takes place, the higher the likelihood of getting a rich harvest. But you cannot keep the roots in water for more than three weeks, as they may rot.

In the first year, the crown should be formed correctly so that there is a minimum of growth and all branches stretch upward. Further care is carried out in the fall: all old branches are cut out, the bush is directed in the right direction.

Transplanting black currants is possible in autumn, spring and even summer. He optimal time for such work – mid-October. Therefore, if you want to collect a lot of berries, follow the above recommendations.

Popular spring shrubs in the garden are ornamental and fruit. Read: When to replant shrubs in spring?

Shrubs are replanted in the garden during redevelopment, if it is necessary to update and treat the plant or if the planting site was chosen poorly. When to replant shrubs in the spring?

When to replant shrubs in spring:

In early spring before sap flow begins;
On warm soil;

Before transplanting shrubs, the gardener should have time to prepare the ground, form a planting site, renew fertilizers, and move the shrubs.

Preparing a site for transplanting shrubs in spring

Shrubs growing in the garden are removed with a shovel, wrapped in polyethylene or a bag, and transferred to a new planting hole, which the gardener has to make.

Land for replanting shrubs in spring:

Loose, well-drained soil;
40% sand – steamed;
Pour fertilizer into the hole according to the size of the roots: 70 grams of lime, 30 grams of mineral fertilizers per m2;

Step-by-step replanting of shrubs in spring

The transplant is carried out, both small and mature shrubs, so do not forget to take care of the base - drive a stake or build a lattice along which the bush is supposed to branch.

Shed after transplanting the shrub in the spring with water, covering +15 cm around the hole.

↓ Write in the comments about your replanting of shrubs in the spring.

Shrubs live in one place for many years, so before planting them in a permanent place, you need to properly prepare the soil. Usually shrubs are not picky about where they grow. Most prefer heavy soils with some clay content. However, to grow, for example, tamarisk and broom, dry sandy soil is required, and the microbiota needs constantly moist soil.

Before planting shrubs, dig up the soil using two shovels, removing roots of perennial weeds, debris and large stones. Small stones should not be chosen, as they benefit plants during periods of drought.

Clay, compost, turf soil or humus are added to light sandy soils, and sand and humus are added to heavy soils.

For plants that prefer acidic soils (rhododendrons, pieris, pommel, Erica, heather and some other species), additional peat is added when digging. A week before planting, complete mineral fertilizer or bone meal is added to the soil. Ash should not be added to such plants.

Plants that are bagged or purchased in containers can be planted even a few weeks after purchase, but bare-root plants require quick planting into the soil, especially in the spring. If you nevertheless bought such shrubs, and planting is postponed for some reason, wrap the roots of the plants with peat or wet burlap, and on top - plastic film so that the roots do not dry out. Try to keep the plants in a cool place, preferably in a cellar or shed. You can also temporarily bury the bushes by covering the roots and part of the trunk with soil, watering them and thoroughly compacting the soil around them.

When planting, distribute the roots of the plant in the planting hole so that they do not bend. The root collar should remain at ground level after planting. If you're not sure, use the soil mark on the plant's trunk as a guide.

When planting shrubs, make sure that the soil around the roots is compacted and does not allow “air pockets” to form. After planting, make an earthen roller around the plants to retain water and water the planted plants.

If you planted shrubs in standard form, be sure to place pegs and tie the trunks to them so that the wind does not knock over the plants until they are sufficiently fixed in the soil.

What should be the distance between bushes?

The most common gardening mistake is planting shrubs too closely.

The reasons for this mistake are very easy to understand: plants, as a rule, are bought very small and it is difficult to imagine that over time a baby only 20-30 cm tall will turn into a bush with a diameter of 2 m!

Plant shrubs at a distance of at least 1.2-2 m from each other, and some species that grow greatly in width - at an even greater distance. Perhaps, if you decide, it will look empty at first. But it is much easier to fill the voids with “temporary residents” - bulbous and rhizomatous perennials or even annuals, than to dig up and move mature bushes to a new place.

If you decide to replant large plants, do not forget that when transplanting their branches are shortened. This helps them better tolerate the transplant and settle down in the new place.

The growth of densely planted shrubs can be controlled by heavy pruning, but this does not always add attractiveness to the plants.

Reproduction of shrubs in the country

Gardeners often propagate their favorite plants themselves. In addition to saving money (as many shrubs are quite expensive), propagating plants yourself brings a sense of pride and satisfaction to the gardener. In addition, some shrubs are rarely on sale, and sometimes the only way to get another specimen is to propagate an existing plant. There are several ways to do this.

Division. The easiest way to propagate shrubs is to dig up the shrub and divide it like a herbaceous perennial. However, not all shrubs can be propagated by division. Many shrubs may die from division!
Reproduction of shrubs by suckers. Suckers are formed from root buds or underground stems and usually appear near the mother bush. The offspring are cut off with a sharp shovel and subsequently grown as independent plants.
Shrubs with flexible shoots are easily propagated by layering. The middle of the shoot is placed in a hole, pinned and covered with earth. It usually takes 6 to 12 months for a new plant to form its own roots.
Some types of conifers and flowering bushes. As a rule, seeds are sown in shrubs before winter, since almost all types of shrub seeds require. Small seeds can be sown in pots or boxes, which are buried in the snow for the winter, and in the spring they are grown as ordinary perennial seedlings. Annual seedlings grown in boxes overwinter, usually in the basement or on a frost-free veranda, and in open ground They are planted in the second year of life and must be insulated before wintering.

Transplanting trees in the fall is a fairly important step. It requires site owners to have knowledge of production and timing of work.

Time to transplant trees in autumn

Agrotechnical practice indicates that autumn (especially late) - best time for transplanting all types of deciduous and coniferous species. The natural state of rest allows representatives of all species to comfortably tolerate interference in the natural process.

The optimal time for replanting trees is in the fall - from the beginning of leaf fall until the ambient temperature drops to minus fifteen degrees.

In conditions of persistent cooling (in the middle zone this is mid-October to mid-late November), all deciduous (including fruit) trees can be replanted. Naturally, best temperature air for such work - from ten to zero degrees. At sub-zero values, additional operations are needed to protect not only the root system itself from freezing, but also to maintain positive soil temperatures around the transplant pit and backfill soil.

For conifers, the best time to transplant is early autumn and early spring.

Plants from other nurseries, taken in advance, should be temporarily buried until the required temperature minimum occurs, if they have an open root system. Seedlings with a closed root system will easily stand until the right time.

Effect of age on survival rate

The older the plant, the more difficult it will be for it to adapt to new conditions. A huge mass of roots will be lost during digging, no matter how carefully the work is done. In the spring, when the tree begins to grow leaf mass, the root system that has not yet been restored will not be able to meet the need for life-giving moisture, which will manifest itself in depression and, as a consequence, in subsequent plant diseases.

The optimal age for transplanting fruit trees in the fall is considered to be between one and three to five years old. In this case, the plant’s ability to survive and grow its root system is maximum. And the absence of an abundant crown (deciduous mass) allows plants to painlessly both grow additional roots and use a minimum of them for sap flow.

If it is necessary to move mature plants (more than five years old) with a well-formed crown to a new location, it is necessary to prepare in advance for this process, since it will require quite a lot of effort and may require additional equipment.

Transplanting garden trees in the fall: step one - choosing a new location

There are several reasons for moving a plant:

trees have outgrown the space allocated to them - access to the sun and air masses is limited, which leads to their oppression and provokes the development of many fungal diseases;

the boundaries of the garden site have changed or new landscape solutions require a change in the location of plants;

making a decision to plant a new plant in the place occupied by a tree and moving the old one - redevelopment of the garden;

the plant was planted temporarily.

The new location should solve the problem of lack of sunlight and easy influx of air masses. Inexperienced gardeners sometimes lack the courage to imagine the dimensions of an adult tree - the work of imagination with the scope seems too difficult possible consequences. But this must be done, otherwise the plant after transplantation will not be able to develop in a few years, it will begin to wither, the yield will be reduced, and it is the task of avoiding this that is at the forefront of replanting trees in the fall.

For the development of the plant, nutritious soil is needed, it must be prepared in advance. The estimated amount of soil mixture can be calculated by estimating the volume of the roots (root ball) minus the volume of the humus layer and turf layer of soil removed when preparing the hole. In other words, the older the plant, the more nutritious humus mixture will have to be prepared (even, perhaps, purchased in case of low-nutrient soils of the new place).

If a new location has been chosen on a previously uncultivated plot of land, the soil should be examined in advance. It is recommended to dig a small (but relatively deep) hole just to look at the composition of the soil.

This technique will help save time during the transplantation process itself and even prepare in advance (if clay soil) necessary drainage.

Step two: preparing the hole in a new place

The size of the hole depends on the spreading nature of the tree: the larger the crown, the larger the diameter of the hole being dug should be. It is better to draw a circle with a shovel on the surface of the soil, laying a line a little further than the measured diameter of the crown - this will allow you to dig a hole in advance with a slight excess.

The depth of the hole depends on the type of tree being transplanted; it is impossible to predict the depth in advance. The following recommendations are relevant here: the depth of the hole can be approximately equal to its width. If, when digging up a tree, it turns out that the length of the roots is shorter, then putting the selected soil back on the bottom is much easier than urgently removing the soil from a dug-out tree lying nearby.

The first layer of turf should be placed not next to the pit, but a little further away, so as not to cover it with the lower layers of soil.

The next fertile layer needs to be laid out in a different place - it will be needed when filling the roots, while the soil structure will be preserved.

The lower, less fertile layers are laid out separately; some of them will be needed to fill the voids.

Up to ten buckets of water should be poured into the dug hole if the tree is about five years old. This will allow you not only to wet the soil, but also to understand how well the moisture is absorbed and whether it is worth draining.

Step three: preparing the wood

Before transplanting trees in the fall, you need to carefully inspect them and remove excess branches.

You need to start with those that grow towards the trunk; they need to be cut out anyway (they thicken the crown).

Then it is imperative to remove all branches that have grown below the grafting site, if any.

Removing those branches that have grown close to each other is thinning the crown.

In this prepared form, it is better for the tree to adapt to a new place.

Step Four: Digging Up the Tree

If the tree is young (up to three years old), digging it out will not be difficult: you need to dig it at a distance of at least forty to fifty centimeters from the trunk to a depth of a spade bayonet. It is worth trying to carefully tilt it in different directions; if it can be tilted, then continue to carefully dig, removing the soil and trying not to damage the roots. As soon as the tree begins to topple under its own weight, excavation must be stopped. Place the removed tree on a previously laid out piece of tarpaulin or thick film, being careful not to shake off the soil from the roots. Carefully wrap the root system with the same film (tarpaulin), tie it above the root collar. In this form, you can transfer it to a future landing site.

When replanting older trees in the fall, a different approach is required. It lies in preliminary preparation a deep trench at a distance of sixty cm to a meter from the tree trunk to a depth of three spade bayonets. When digging in a circle, you need to carefully monitor the lateral roots that come across; they must be carefully cut off with a knife and treated with garden varnish. Having removed all the soil from the trench and cut off the long roots, they begin to place long poles (boards) under the tree. Then they carefully lift it from the ground, lay it on its side on a prepared tarpaulin, wrap the root ball in it, bandage it and transport it to a new place (preferably not by dragging it).

In both cases, in order not to damage the root system, the soil around the tree must be shed if it has not rained for more than three days. The amount of water depends on the age of the tree and the condition of the soil (up to ten buckets).

Step five: planting in a prepared hole

Before planting, it is advisable to orient the tree to the edges of the world the way it grew previously.

After making sure that the dug hole is a little deeper and wider than the root ball, you can carefully lower the tree into the hole, covering it with the prepared soil mixture: first the lower layer mixed with humus, then the top fertile layer with humus, gradually watering the soil being added. This technique will allow you to fill the earth voids immediately during transplantation of fruit trees in the fall.

It is advisable to lay a previously prepared layer of turf on top of the humus layers - this will prevent the lower layers of soil from being eroded.

Some trees need support: by driving stakes into the ground (preferably on three sides), you need to connect them through the tree with rope loops in the shape of a figure eight. It is advisable to leave the stakes until the middle of next spring.

Caring for transplanted trees

The next year after moving to a new permanent place of residence, you need to more carefully monitor the condition of the tree. Care consists of constant weeding, monitoring the entry of moths into the crown, and treatment against rot. It is advisable to remove the flower stalks of the first year after transplantation to strengthen the tree.

Transplanting fruit trees in autumn

The question of when it is necessary to replant fruit trees does not have a clear answer. It depends on weather conditions, soil characteristics, varietal and individual characteristics plants. Autumn replanting helps the root system to gradually adapt to a new place, and in the spring to fully perform its functions.

Transplanting trees in the fall has the following advantages:

It is profitable to purchase seedlings. Young trees are sold at the last leaves and freshly dug roots, which allows you to assess the condition of the plant. Some sellers display fruits specific to a particular variety.
Caring for seedlings is easy. It is necessary to water the young plant, and then rely on nature. Weather conditions will provide sufficient moisture supply and comfortable conditions for adaptation. The root system will grow until the soil temperature reaches +4° C. Before the onset of winter cold, young roots have time to grow, so in the spring the fruit tree begins to grow 2-3 weeks earlier than the seedlings that were planted in the spring.
Saving effort and time. With the onset of spring, work on growing vegetable plants becomes more urgent, given their short growing season.

Fruit tree seedlings

Autumn plantings also have their downsides. Among them:

severe frosts, winds, snowfalls and other weather stresses are destructive for young plants;
there is a high risk of damage to seedlings by rodents;
during the absence of the owners summer cottage young trees can be “borrowed” by other gardeners.

When is the best time to replant trees?

Mid-September, October - favorable time for transplantation fruit crops. Garden work you can continue if warm weather continues in the first half of November. The main guideline for planting trees is the onset of biological dormancy, which is indicated by the end of leaf fall. Depending on the region, the estimated time frame for the work:

central Russia– mid-September – mid-October;
northern regions– early September – early October;
southern regions– October – mid-November.

Transplanting a fruit tree with a lump

How to dig

When transplanting fruit trees, it is important to preserve the integrity of the root system as much as possible and create favorable conditions for its survival in a new location. Algorithm of actions:

Pour 3-5 buckets of water under the tree.
Dig the trunk around and deep to a distance of about 70 cm. The root system should be enclosed in a kind of earthen cone.
Carefully remove the plant along with the soil lump, which is wrapped in burlap, then in polyethylene. Secure the wrapper with wire or rope.

Preparing the site

The new location for the fruit tree to grow is selected taking into account the variety’s light requirements. Pre-prepare the pit. Its dimensions should be 30-40 cm deeper and wider than the coma. They fill the bottom of the planting hole with fertile soil. For this purpose, you can use the top layer removed during preparation. seat, add 2 buckets of humus (or peat, old compost) to it, mix and compact. When replanting in autumn, you can use phosphorus and potassium mineral fertilizers.

How to replant a mature tree

There are various reasons why a tree needs to be replanted in adulthood. For example, construction works, change landscape design, thinning of garden plantings and others. Age of gardeners woody plants must not exceed 15 years. Trees are replanted with or without a clod of soil. The first method is more labor-intensive, but reliable. The suction surface of the root system does not lose contact with the soil and is not injured. Sequencing:

The diameter of the earthen coma for young trees is 50-70 cm, for trees older than 5 years – up to 150 cm, height – 60-70 cm.
After abundant watering along the perimeter of the plants, dig a trench 30-60 cm deep and form a cone-shaped ball. Roots that protrude beyond the diameter of the soil ball are cut off.
The tree is carefully removed using gardening tools and placed on a film, which is fixed above the root collar.
For transportation (if necessary), the plant is placed in sawdust to protect the soil ball from excessive shaking.

Watering the seedling after transplantation

A less labor-intensive method is replanting without a lump of soil. When carrying out work, severe damage to the roots should not be allowed. The dimensions of the pit should be slightly larger than in the previous case. The root system of the plant is lowered into it and covered with pre-prepared soil mixed with humus. It is necessary to ensure that the roots do not bend. The soil mixture is compacted to ensure tight contact of the root system with the soil. After backfilling, the plant is watered abundantly.

When replanting using any of the methods, mulching is carried out over the entire width of the root system. For this purpose, peat, compost, humus and others are used. organic fertilizer. The thickness of the mulch layer is 10-12 cm. It protects the roots of the tree from freezing. For additional protection If a plant has been weakened by transplantation, it is worth wrapping the trunk and the bases of the skeletal branches with thick paper or burlap.

Transplanting seedlings in autumn

Experienced gardeners say that replanting an apple tree in the fall has a beneficial effect on its development and fruiting. There are different opinions regarding other fruit trees. Transplantation of seedlings is carried out as follows:

2 months before planting, prepare holes 70-100 cm deep (depending on the crop). Their diameter should easily accommodate a lump of soil.
When preparing the hole, separate the top fertile layer of soil.
Place peat, humus, and rotted manure at the bottom and mix them with previously prepared black soil.
Water the planting site with water.
The roots of the seedling are placed in a hole, covered with earth, and compacted.
After planting, watering is done again.

Young fruit trees are replanted with a soil ball and bare roots. It is better to choose two-year-old plants. The grafted shoot must have at least 4 living buds. Leaves must be removed before digging, as they impair survival rate. Container seedlings (the root system is closed and located in a special container) take root faster than others. It is important not to water the plant in containers before planting, so as not to disturb the soil lump.

Video

Tree transplantation: how to help a seedling

There are quite certain conditions, in which the transplanted tree has the opportunity to completely restore the root system and begin the growing season in a timely manner.

This is the optimal soil humidity and temperature, taking into account the age of the tree, with a minimum time between digging and planting, and necessarily during the period of biological dormancy of the tree, winter sleep.

Wet soil

Scientifically speaking, the soil moisture around the roots of the seedling should be 70-80%. This means that 70-80% of the air pores will be occupied by water. Soil moisture can be assessed using a special device - a moisture meter. Or if there is no device, then using the old-fashioned method.

To do this, you need to take a lump of earth in your palm, lightly squeeze it and release it. If after this the lump easily crumbles, then the humidity is insufficient and ranges from 20% to 50%. If the lump does not crumble even when tossed, the humidity reaches 70-80%. At 100% humidity, wet soil sticks to your fingers in small lumps.

On a note: high humidity soil around the roots is necessary in the first months after transplantation. After that, you can reduce it to the usual levels, namely 10-20% for sandy loam and 25-40% for loam.

Soil temperature

Tree root growth occurs at soil temperatures from +4°C to +30°C. At these temperatures, new root hairs grow, roots branch, and juices are absorbed from the soil. At the same time, the best and most fast growth root growth occurs in the range from +10 to +20°C.

Biological dormancy of a seedling

The biological dormancy of a tree begins with the fall of leaves and lasts until the buds swell. At this time, there is no sap flow in the seedlings, no evaporation. Therefore, their wood does not lose moisture during transportation and does not lose its supply of nutrients.

Sap flow also explains why a seedling dug up with leaves quickly dries out - it loses moisture through evaporation. Its supply of nutrients is also depleted.

Note: the falling of leaves not only creates “rest” for the tree, but also indicates maximum ripening of the shoots.

As long as there are leaves on the branches, the movement of juices and vegetation continues, the shoots “ripen”. That is why seedlings dug up before leaf fall have many “immature” shoots that are sure to freeze in winter.

Time between digging and planting

Minimum replanting time increases the tree’s chances of quickly and painlessly settling down in a new location. This is due to the peculiarities of sap flow. The liquid inside the tree trunk moves from the bottom up - from the ground (where the salt concentration is lower) into the tree (where the salt concentration is higher).

During transportation, long-term storage, wood cells lose moisture and salts. The movement of juices in such seedlings does not occur even when planted in very moist soil. The seedling dries up.

Tree age

The age indicator affects the speed and ease of survival of a seedling and an adult tree. When replanting, some of the roots are lost. A young tree restores its root system faster than an old one. Therefore, transplanting young seedlings up to 3 years old is preferable to older trees.

Note: this does not mean that mature trees cannot be transplanted to a new location.

This means that for their successful establishment, you will need to work hard, dig up a tree with a large lump, transport it by transport, and then spend more time on watering and subsequent care of the transplanted tree.

Transplantation in the fall: for!

Now let’s analyze what conditions are created during autumn and spring planting. And when is it better to replant trees - in spring or autumn?

Soil moisture in autumn

Soil moisture in the fall is maintained on its own. After autumn replanting, the soil is optimally moist for the next 3-4 months without additional watering. The exception is the southern regions, where autumn can be dry. In other regions, after the autumn rains, the best conditions for transplantation are created.

With the onset of winter, the need for watering disappears on its own. During the frost period, the top layer of soil freezes to 5-10 cm, and the humidity of the lower layers is maintained at an optimal level until spring.

As for spring plantings, they require constant watering. At the same time, with the onset summer heat the soil periodically dries out, and this slows down the growth of new root hairs. In addition, the growing season that has begun requires active work roots and absorption of water, followed by its evaporation from the surface of the leaves.

The roots of a recently transplanted tree are unable to provide the seedling with the required amount of moisture. The transplanted tree develops very slowly and partially dries out.

Autumn soil temperature

When planting seedlings in autumn, the soil retains the heat accumulated over the summer. When it’s already +5 outside, the soil temperature at the depth of the roots stays around +10°C. At the same time there is additional bonus- the growing season has already stopped, there is no sap flow, the roots “work” without load.

Thus, they are created ideal conditions to restore the root system. Cool above, quite warm below near the roots. And it’s also humid, we talked about this in the previous section.

In winter, only the top layers of soil freeze. At correct transplantation seedlings to a sufficient depth, when their root system is in the frost-free zone, slow root growth can last all winter.

The exception here will be the northern regions, where the soil freezes quite deeply. In such areas, young seedlings may freeze completely after autumn planting. And only those trees whose root system extends deep and reaches the frost line will survive the winter.

Note: the winter growth of roots under the snow explains why seedlings planted in the fall are already able to produce leaves, bloom and bear fruit by spring.

For them, the winter period became a time of growth and preparation for spring. Therefore, replanting fruit trees in the fall creates conditions for them to bear fruit the following season. Spring seedlings will need to build up their root system during the summer.

As for planting in spring, the soil warms up slower than the air after winter. The root system grows worse.

Autumn planting dates

When can you replant trees in the fall? Planting times depend on the region. Moreover, even in the same region, the dates may shift, depending on autumn temperatures and the type of tree and shrub. Planting begins at the end of leaf fall, when the trees have completely shed their leaves. The end of planting occurs at the first frost, when the soil begins to freeze.

Note: in the southern regions, tree planting is possible as long as the soil is not frozen. That is, not only in autumn, but also at the beginning of winter, in December.

When autumn planting is not suitable

Autumn tree planting is not suitable for two regions:

Territories with very cold winters, in which the ground freezes to a depth of 50-60 cm or more. In such a winter, a young tree can freeze. Only those trees survive whose root system is located below the frost line. In cold climates, trees are replanted in the spring, after the soil has thawed. So that the seedling has time to grow its root system and prepare for the harsh winter.
The extreme southern regions with a dry, non-rainy autumn. Here the soil has low humidity, the conditions for survival are average. The best planting in such areas is at the beginning of winter.

Replanting large trees

Replanting large trees is only possible together with a large lump of earth. Bare root replanting is not suitable here. Without a coma, an adult tree will die after transplantation.

Replanting with soil or replanting with a clod is a labor-intensive, but guaranteed method. It is important to understand that the main nutrition of the tree is provided by thin absorbent roots. They are the ones that end up being torn off when the roots are cleared from the soil.

To successfully transplant a large tree, you need to dig up its roots with a large lump of earth. The size of the coma depends on the age of the tree and its size. So, a 5-year-old tree with a trunk diameter of 15-20 cm must be dug up with a lump 70-80 cm deep and up to 1.5 m in diameter.

Note: to make digging out large clods easier, it is worth watering the soil well.

To preserve moisture, after digging, the lump of earth is wrapped in plastic cloth. From the outside, the fabric is tightly wrapped and fixed to prevent the soil from falling off and the thin roots from breaking.

After planting, the surface of the earth above the roots is mulched to a depth of 15-20 cm to better retain moisture.

So, replanting in the fall...

The best time to transplant trees is the second half of autumn. At this time, the tree must finish its growing season, form young mature shoots, accumulate a supply of nutrients and shed its leaves. Their absence will reduce the load on the roots. And it will create conditions for restoration and growth in moist, warm autumn soil.

Exception to the rule autumn transplant There will be northern regions with long cold winters and deep freezing of the soil. And also the extreme southern regions, provided there is no autumn rain.

What trees and why is it better to plant in autumn?

When to plant trees - in spring or autumn? There is hardly an absolutely unambiguous answer to this question: weather conditions vary from year to year, and the soils on each site are different, and any seedling, like any living organism, is distinguished by its individuality. Each season has a whole set of pros and cons that you need to consider when making a planting decision.

When to plant trees: spring or autumn?

The natural truth is this: wood and earth are two parts of the indivisible. Therefore, you can reunite them, that is, plant a tree in the ground, at any time of the year (except for the period when the ground is not able to accept the root, when it is frozen). Another thing is the sum of other accompanying conditions. This is what determines how the seedling will take root and how it will develop further. Therefore, each plant has its own favorable time for planting and replanting. And since it’s autumn, let’s remember which trees should be planted right now (and why so).

Pros and cons of autumn planting

As soon as the autumn chores in the garden beds are over, seedlings with careful care appear in the hands of summer residents heading to their plots. covered with roots. A short but very important time for planting trees begins, and anyone who is convinced of the correctness of the autumn choice is not at all mistaken.

Pros and cons of autumn planting

Benefits of autumn planting

It's more profitable

It is much more profitable to purchase seedlings in the fall: both nurseries and private gardeners begin selling newly dug planting material. From here big choice, affordable price and the opportunity to evaluate the quality of the purchase. Plants at this time are often sold with both the last leaves and fresh roots (which may indicate the health of the seedling). In addition, conscientious gardeners often demonstrate the fruits characteristic of this particular variety, which is very important for the buyer.

It is easier

Autumn planting will bring little trouble: you can limit yourself to one watering, and nature itself will finish the rest. Autumn coolness and rain will provide the seedling with the necessary soil moisture and comfort. The fact is that, despite the dormant period, the roots of the tree continue to grow until the soil cools to a temperature of +4°C. Plants planted in time before the onset of stable frosts will already have time to grow thin absorbent roots and in the new season they will begin to grow as much as two or even three weeks earlier than those seedlings that were planted in the spring.

Benefits of autumn planting

It saves time

A purely “human factor”: planting trees in the fall will free up the summer resident’s energy and time for other gardening chores, which in the spring will be “over his head.”

Autumn planting is especially favorable in the southern regions, where winters are warm. The ground does not freeze to the depth of the roots, and young trees are not at risk of hypothermia and freezing.

Disadvantages of autumn planting

strong frosts capable of destroying fragile trees;
winter is rich in stressful situations for seedlings: strong winds, ice, snowfalls and other weather troubles can break young plants;
in late autumn and winter, seedlings are often damaged by rodents;
Well, during the absence of the owners, the seedlings at the dacha simply may be stolen other fruit tree lovers.

In winter, weather troubles can break young plants

Experts strongly advise avoiding fall planting non-winter-hardy varieties of fruit trees and shrubs:

pears;
apple trees;
plums;
apricot;
peach;
cherries;
almonds;
cherries

Well, of course, it would be a mistake to plant in the fall in the northern regions those seedlings that were brought from more southern climatic zones - they simply will not survive frosts that are unusual for their homeland.

In the next video - practical advice which plants are best to plant in the fall:

What trees and shrubs take root well when planted in autumn?

winter-hardy varieties apple and pear trees;
chokeberry;
currant;
raspberries;
gooseberry;
honeysuckle;
birch;
nut;
chestnut;
conifers.

Autumn planting dates

The optimal period for autumn tree planting is considered to be the end of September and all of October, and perhaps even the beginning or middle of November if the weather is warm.

IN central Russia autumn planting is carried out from mid-September to mid-October.

IN northern regions– from early September to early October.
IN southern regions– from October to mid-November.

Autumn planting dates

The timing is dictated by the weather. Each year the borders can “float”, differing significantly from the dates of previous years. There were years when it was possible to plant trees before last numbers November.

Important guideline condition: the best time for planting (transplanting) any seedlings is during their biological rest. Its onset is evidenced by end of leaf fall.

You can always choose fruit trees for planting in your dacha using our market by comparing offers from different online stores.

If the autumn planting deadlines are missed

It also happens that it was not possible to plant a seedling in the fall. Maybe, at the very end of the season, you successfully found a sale of seedlings at bargain prices, or you managed to get a wonderful desired variety that cannot be planted in the fall... what should you do in this case?

If the autumn planting deadlines are missed

All you need to do is take care of preserving your seedling until spring, so that you can plant it on the site. Based on practice, the three most common methods are used for this:

storage in a cold, damp basement (cellar);
snowmaking;
digging in the ground.

In the next video, Evgeny Fedotov and Roman Vrublevsky will tell and show how to bury seedlings for storage from autumn to spring planting:

Basement storage

If you generously moisten the roots of the seedlings and lower them into a container filled with peat, sawdust or sand, then at a temperature from 0°C to +10°C and relative humidity air 87-90%, they will be perfectly preserved in the basement until planting. These seedlings in the basement only need to be watered once every 7-10 days.

Snowmaking

This is storing seedlings outside: properly packed, they overwinter under a sufficient layer of snow, using it magical power do not allow the temperature around living stems to drop below the “life level”.

In conditions middle zone, Ural And Siberia for autumn planting, it is best to choose zoned and, if necessary, winter-hardy varieties that are acclimatized and quickly take root. Thus, fruit trees of Siberian and Ural selection - pear and apple trees, rowan, mulberry and cherry plum - tolerate planting in autumn quite well.

For gardeners southern regions It is better to plant trees in autumn. In these parts, autumn is long, warm, with periodic rains, which is “just right” for seedlings. But spring here can too quickly give way to hot summer.

Saplings that dug up ahead of schedule(before natural leaf fall) most often have immature shoots and almost always freeze slightly.

If you bought a “beautiful tree” with leaves for planting, you risk getting not only immature, but also overdried seedling, because the main loss of moisture occurs through the leaf plate. You can learn how to choose the right seedling from the article General recommendations for choosing a seedling and planting fruit trees:

In the south, autumn planting of trees and shrubs is preferable

The main thing is to remember: nature will lend its hands to any of its offspring, and we must try to deliver healthy, mature seedlings with a good root system to the nursery at the most favorable time. Then the young tree will not have to sit on “sick leave” for years and receive “disability” by the time it reaches adulthood. If everything is done correctly, no matter what season we plant - autumn, summer or spring - the tree will respond with cheerful growth, excellent development and a rich harvest.

A SIMPLE WAY TO TRANSPLANT TREES

The basis for writing it was my own experience. Planting wild trees and shrubs near roads, plots or on the plots themselves is not yet very popular in Russia. IN Western Europe In America, large and small cities are surrounded by greenery, and there are more evergreen trees than deciduous trees. Published literature contains almost no information on transplanting wild plants. Over the past 10 years, I have planted more than 500 fruit and wild trees and shrubs, all of them, with rare exceptions, have taken root. I planted fruit trees on the plot. Growing wild (of which 50% are evergreen, mostly conifers up to 3 m high or more) both on the site (near the house, barn, shed, paths, fences) and on the street (on the outside of the fence or across the road). Of course, without compromising sunlight on vegetable and berry crops.

Our plot is located near Volokolamsk, in the collective gardening partnership “Raduga” of the Moscow Agricultural Academy. K. A. Timiryazeva. I myself am an engineer, I worked for 38 years in the metrology department of the Radio Engineering Institute of the Academy of Sciences, for the last 10 years as chief metrologist. When planting trees, I first consulted with neighbors - teachers and researchers academy. An engineer by profession, I could not help but show interest in wood as a cybernetic device, knowledge of which, unfortunately, today is limited mainly to empirical experience. My point of view was fully supported by Associate Professor of TSHA A.D. Koshansky.

V. Merkulov (Moscow).

It is known that the movement of nutrients - salt solutions - from the soil into the tree occurs due to osmotic pressure (pressure in plant cells, depending on the concentration of salts). Inside the tree, the concentration of salts is higher than in the soil. In accordance with the laws of chemistry, movement liquid solution always occurs towards the solution with a higher concentration, that is, from the roots to the top.

When a tree is transplanted from one place to another, the plant is dug out of the ground, transported and planted in a new place.

When digging, some of the soil and roots are inevitably lost. A tree experiencing stress accelerates the use of accumulated nutrients, and the osmotic pressure inside it drops. The situation is worsened by transportation, especially long-term transportation. If, by the time of planting in a new place, the concentration of salts in the tree is less than the concentration of salts in the soil, it will not take root and will dry out.

It turns out that for successful replanting, it is necessary to dig up a tree with a large lump of earth and less loss of roots. Transportation to a new location should be quick and, if possible, maintaining the moisture of the coma and roots, which is why it is recommended to place the seedling in a damp cloth, preferably cotton, such as burlap, so that the roots can breathe.

When transplanting, it is desirable that the living conditions in the new place do not differ from the previous ones. To plant a tree, a hole equal in volume to a clod of earth is sufficient. To maintain soil acidity and create better conditions Due to the osmotic pressure inside the tree, I do not put fertilizers, manure, leaves, grass, or sawdust in the pit. Fertilizers during planting, in particular chemical ones, can burn the tips of roots damaged during digging, and leaves, grass, sawdust can destroy the tree with organic acids, because if there is a lack of oxygen in the hole, it will take years for them to decompose. For the same reason, it is undesirable to dig a wooden stake near a tree as a support; it is better to use a neutral plastic pole, or even better, a metal one.

If the soil at the planting site is less loose, for better breathing of the roots I make a hole of a larger diameter, and fill the space between the lump of earth and its edges with earth mixed with sand (approximately 40%). It is also necessary to mix the soil with sand when planting seedlings with bare roots. When transplanting fruit trees, I pour lime into the bottom of the hole and mix it with the soil at the rate of 70-100 g per 1 square meter. m.

After planting, the tree first of all needs plenty of water, but not in excess: one bucket at the time of planting and on average one bucket every 3 days for 1-1.5 months.

According to my observations, a tree or shrub is more easily accepted when it is transplanted from soil rich in nutrition to soil that is less saturated, with equal qualities. And the situation is much worse for a seedling when transplanted from soil poor in nutrients to rich.

This simple method of replanting trees and shrubs, primarily wild ones, up to 3 m in height or more does not require a lot of time and effort. In one hour you can plant 5-6 or more trees, and at any time of the year, even in winter, but better in early spring, immediately after the snow melts. It is possible in the summer - preferably small trees with a large lump of earth. In the fall, however, the plantings take root less well, and to prevent them from dying, you have to water them regularly until frost. One of necessary conditions survival rate at any time of the year: the tree's lump of soil should be as large as possible, such that it can be lifted, carried and transported.

In a new location, wild trees and shrubs quickly take root and require almost no care. For better growth, I fertilize them, but not earlier than a year after planting, most often with water-soluble fertilizers mineral fertilizers(20-30 g per 1 sq. m a year after planting, in subsequent years - 40-50 g per 1 sq. m).

In addition to nurseries, without damage to forests, wild trees for planting (with the knowledge of forest rangers) can be found under power lines, along highway right-of-way and railways, in quarries and other places where they are not needed and are most often destroyed.

Please tell me when is the best time to replant Grefsheim spirea bushes? Two years ago we planted tiny seedlings with a closed root system and missed the mark. They grow in a more illuminated and warmer part of the garden, next to apple trees and lilacs; the buds have already appeared. Now the bushes have already grown to 60 cm and it has become obvious that they need to be replanted, but I am afraid of ruining them by untimely replanting. And another question about spirea. The same spirea, only the bush is 4-5 years old. Can it be transplanted painlessly or only after severe pruning and with a high risk of loss?

I obviously delayed my answer, but, on the other hand, my answer in May will demonstrate that spirea is a very easy-to-care crop. She is not afraid of transplantation at any age, and with a little tricks, she can be transplanted even in summer.
Strict experts flora Recommendations are rewritten from post to post: spirea can be replanted in early spring before buds open or late in autumn after leaf fall. I admire such experts: they manage to do everything in the garden on time. But what about those summer residents who can only go to their garden at the end of April, or even at May holidays, and in the fall the season ends not at the end of October, but at the beginning of September? Is it really possible to deprive yourself of the joy of having a variety of not only fruit trees, but also beautiful shrubs and bright flowers in your garden?
No way!!! In practice (rarely do I have time to complete all the work in the best possible time!) I am convinced that adult bushes of ornamental crops can be replanted with leaves and even flowers. If you need it, then you need it!
It is important to follow only a few rules.
First, choose the right place for the spirea. Almost all species and varieties love a sunny place, although also Grefsheim and other species, blooming in spring, can tolerate light partial shade from large trees (it also appears when these spirea have almost faded).
Secondly, clearly mark the planting sites, taking into account what diameter and height this or that species or variety reaches. SpireaGrefsheimby the age of 10 it reaches a diameter of 2 m, andLittle Princessonly 70-80 cm.
Thirdly, prepare the soil and planting holes at least 3-4 days before planting. Here you need to take into account that heavy soils will have to be loosened with sand and peat, and light soils will have to be “weighted” by adding moisture-retaining materials, for example, finely lumpy clay. Acidic soils you need to produce lime, but not be zealous, because Billard's spirea and all its hybrids grow poorly on calcareous soils. The heavier the soil, the larger the drainage layer should be: from 5 cm on light soils to 20 cm on clay soils.
The hole for planting needs to be dug about a third larger than the earthen ball of the plant being transplanted. But when planting, you need to take into account that the root collar should be at the same level as in the old place.
It is very important to transplant an adult plant in cloudy weather and stock up on an old sheet.
The work algorithm is as follows:
1. The hole was dug and covered with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer in 3-4 days.
2. Towards evening, pour water into the hole and at the same time water the plant that we will replant.
3. We dig up the plant, moving 15-20 cm around the perimeter from the root collar. Carefully trim the roots and take them out along with the earthen lump. If the bush is large, then immediately lay it on a piece of film or fabric and transfer it to the planting hole.
4. We lower the seedling into the planting hole and control the level of the root collar. If necessary, add soil under the roots, or remove a little soil from the bottom of the hole.
5. Fill the planting hole with garden soil, lightly trampling the ground. We water the plant with water with the addition of root. Mulch the tree trunk circle with a thick layer of peat or humus (5-7 cm).
6. We install 3-4 pegs around the perimeter of the bush, as tall as the bush itself.
7. We soak an old sheet or a large piece of gauze in water, wring it out a little and cover the bush completely, pulling it over the pegs. We fix the fabric near the ground so that it does not blow away in the wind.
8. For 3-4 days every day, and in hot dry weather we moisten it with water 2-3 times a day.
9. Then in the evening we remove the fabric and let the spirea grow freely. True, it will be necessary to water regularly for a month, because the plant’s roots are damaged and cannot fully provide the plant with moisture.
If you replant spirea during the flowering period, it is better to trim the inflorescences. In summer-bloomers, this technique will cause repeated flowering, and in spring-bloomers, more abundant flowering next spring.