Whitewashing ceilings with lime or chalk is one of the classic and well-tested methods of updating them, allowing you to quickly organize redecorating one or another room. Compared to modern techniques decorating ceilings (arranging tension systems, For example) this method finishing ceiling surfaces is the simplest and most inexpensive.
When preparing for work, you need to decide on the source material on the basis of which you will prepare the finishing composition (lime or chalk).
And, of course, any of these materials has its own characteristics. Lime, for example, has the ability to close microscopic cracks, making the surface of the ceiling more even and smooth. For its part, chalk solution makes it possible to acquire a coating of perfect whiteness. So, when choosing a particular material, you should focus, first of all, on your preferences.
In our article we will look at the technology for preparing whitewash based on both of these components.
Preparation of lime whitewash
To prepare limestone finishing composition you may need the following components:
- slaked lime;
- pure water;
- drying oil;
- 50 grams table salt;
- a bag of blue or ultramarine.
Before diluting lime to whitewash the ceiling, you will need to prepare 2–3 kilograms source material and 5 liters of hot water. Required volume ready-made composition is determined in most cases from the calculation that for every 2.5 m? the treated surface consumes approximately half a kilo of lime and 0.75 liters clean water.
To obtain the optimal composition, first dissolve slaked lime in the prepared water, and then sequentially add all the auxiliary components in that direction. To give the finished whitewash additional plasticity and durability, add a little drying oil (one third of a tablespoon) and about 5 grams of table salt to the mixture. Then ready solution mixes well, and then immediately filters through a sieve, which allows large lumps of lime and other impurities to be removed from it.
Note! To give ceiling whitewash of a light bluish tint, 20 grams of blue are added to it, which will provide the ceiling with additional attractiveness in natural light.
Before diluting chalk for whitewashing, you should familiarize yourself with one of the options for its production, for the implementation of which you will need:
- dry chalk;
- blue;
- container with warm water;
- simple gauze.
The procedure for working with chalk whitewash involves the following steps:
- First of all, you will need chalk, which is sold in the form of a thick paste (dry powder) at any hardware store. You should not be embarrassed by the fact that the purchased chalk paste has a slightly grayish tint; some time after whitewashing is completed, the coating in mandatory will acquire the characteristic chalk whiteness.
- The amount of starting material needed for work depends on the size of the room being treated and the thickness (consistency) of the prepared solution. Try to buy chalk paste with a small supply; At the same time, unused remnants will always be useful to you during subsequent repairs.
- Before starting whitewashing, it is important to test the technique of applying the finished composition to small area surface to be finished (make a test attempt). That is why you can acquire at least some skill in working with whitewash, and find out the approximate consumption of the solution.
- Before preparing whitewash, be sure to sift the purchased chalk powder, which will allow you to clean it from unwanted impurities and large fragments. After this, take approximately 2 kilograms of chalk and dilute it in 2.5–3 liters of warm water. Gently stir the mixture until a homogeneous mixture is formed that does not contain any visible lumps.
- Strain the finished mixture through gauze laid in two or three layers, periodically rinsing it with clean running water. As a result of the operations performed, you should take a ready-to-use mass that resembles liquid sour cream in its consistency.
Video
To determine in more detail how to dilute lime, you can watch the following video:
Some novice gardeners believe that whitewashing garden trees- a waste of time. Well, then go barefoot in the cold. Or stand on the hot sand. Does not work? And the trees in the garden all year round They stand either in the snow or under the scorching sun. So it wouldn't hurt to help them.
Painting works
For whitewashing I prepare such a solution. I took six liters of water for two kilograms of quicklime and one kilogram of fatty clay. I mixed everything well and added skim milk (I got it from a dairy farm).
Milk is needed so that the mixture adheres well to the tree bark.
Autumn whitewashing is usually carried out in November, after all the trees have shed their leaves. It is important that the weather is dry at this time and the air temperature does not exceed 3°C.
Before whitewashing I laid plastic film trunk circles, thoroughly cleaned the trunks and branches of old dead bark, foreign growths, moss and lichen. To do this, I use a construction spatula and a wire brush. I do this carefully so as not to scrape off the old bark. But if wounds do form, I immediately cover them with garden varnish. After the cleansing procedures, the main process begins. I'm white paint brush in two layers. Moreover, I paint the entire trunk and the beginning of the skeletal branches. The size of the brush depends on the thickness of the trunk. But this is a matter of convenience; of course, thick trees are not easy and take a long time to whiten with a small brush. But my neighbors generally use a spray gun. But they have a large garden, and this method will require much more whitewash.
Stay ahead of pests
During the winter thaws, I had to repeat the whitewashing several times, especially on the south side (the sun and rain simply lick the chalk right down to the bark). Spring is approaching, and at the end of March - beginning of April I will have another whitewash. Here it is important to be in time so that the earth does not warm up too much and the first leaves do not bloom. The fact is that harmful insects could overwinter in the bark (they were also at ease under a layer of whitewash), and with the arrival of warmth, all sorts of insects strive to move from the ground to the tree. We need to get ahead of them.
Therefore for spring whitewash I definitely add it to the solution copper sulfate for disinfection.
The proportion of the composition is as follows: for 10 liters of ready-made clay-lime solution, I take 300 g of copper sulfate. In addition to pests, this mixture also protects trees from diseases. I want to say that whitewashing did some good for my trees. They survived the winter well, bloomed profusely and rewarded me with a luxurious harvest. And I really liked how my little garden looks now.
- It is not recommended to whitewash young trees until they enter the fruiting season. Instead of whitewashing, they are covered with woven materials for the winter. Under no circumstances should you cover it with film!
- Before whitewashing trees, all cracks and wounds are carefully covered with garden varnish. It is sold in garden stores, but you can prepare healing putty at home. To do this, melt 200 g of wax and rosin, add 100 g vegetable oil and cool by pouring the mixture into cold water.
Making your own whitewash mixture
Readers complain about the quality of whitewash for garden trees - you can often buy some in the store white clay, dissolved in water. What to do if you are faced with the dishonesty of the manufacturer?
For whitewashing fruit trees you can use not only special garden whitewash, but also white paint. When purchasing, choose a paint that contains antiseptic additives, as well as 10-15% of glue in the total volume (to prevent the paint from being washed off by late autumn rains). It is advisable that the packaging indicate that the paint layer is breathable.
In order not to doubt the quality of the product at all, we recommend preparing a mixture for whitewashing trees yourself.
There are many different recipes. The main thing is that they must contain three main components: a white coloring substance (lime, chalk), an adhesive substance (PVA, clay, milk, laundry soap), disinfecting and prophylactic substances (copper sulfate, manure, droppings, etc.).
You can select almost any of the ingredients listed in brackets; their compatibility is approximately the same.
Option 1.
Take 1 kg of slaked lime, 200 g (bag) of copper sulfate, 1 kg of manure or chicken manure and 8 liters of water (slightly less than a bucket). All this is thoroughly mixed and allowed to stand for about 1 hour. The prepared mixture is ready for use.
Option 2.
Take 2-2.5 kg of slaked lime, 250-300 g of copper sulfate, 1 kg of fatty clay, 1-2 shovels cow dung, add water, bringing the volume to 10 liters. Mix all this well until a homogeneous mass is obtained. The finished whitewash should have the consistency of cream or sour cream. When applied to the trunk, the whitewash should not flow off it. If it flows, it is not thick enough. By adding lime and clay it is brought to the desired consistency.
Option 3.
For 10 liters of water - 2.5 kg of slaked lime, 1 kg of clay and 0.5 kg of copper sulfate. To prevent the whitewash from being washed off by rain, add 10% stationery or wood glue to its composition.
Why whitewash?
Many people think that our grandmothers whitewashed trees “for beauty,” but we don’t need to. However, whitewashing performs much more important functions than just pleasing the eye. Frosty and bright winter days the bark can get burned from sun rays, which enhance their impact when reflected from the snow. At the end of winter, sharp temperature changes occur (sunny days - frosty nights), resulting in frost cracks and cracks in the bark. Whitewashing can protect both from burns and from frost damage, since it reflects light, and accordingly, bleached trunks and shoots heat up less than dark ones.
But that's not all. Whitewashing protects the tree from moss and lichen, kills pests and spores of pathogens overwintering in the bark. It is necessary to whiten not only the trunk, but also the forks and bases of large branches.
When to whiten?
This can be done in October-November, when the autumn showers end (otherwise they will wash away part of the whitewash) and the air temperature drops to minus 2-3°.
A. MIKHEEV, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences
How I whiten fruit trees
Before whitewashing, I also perform other sanitary work, for example, cleaning the trunk, disinfecting, and healing tree wounds. Then the garden is not afraid of pests and bugs.
To clean the trunk, I use a homemade sponge made from twine, rolled up in several layers. This way you can clean the trunk of moss and lichens without damaging the bark itself. I like to care for trees in wet weather, when it feels like the bark is well saturated with moisture. I treat cracks and depressions with wooden or plastic tool without using iron tools. Before I start cleaning, I lay out a thick cloth under the tree so that everything cleared from the trunk ends up there and not on the ground. Then I burn everything that I clear from the trunks away from the garden.
After cleaning the trunks, I disinfect them well. For what? Yes, in order to disinfect those wounds that were already on the tree bark, and the entire surface of the trunk, so that new infections do not begin to develop.
The most effective and cheap option disinfection of bark - a solution of soap and ash. I sift about 3 kg of ash and dilute it in 10 liters of hot water, adding 50-60 g of ordinary laundry soap to the solution. I wash the barrel with this solution while it is still hot.
I try not to use chemicals, because they tend to accumulate in the soil and then move into the bark, adversely affecting the health of the tree and our family.
When I finished disinfecting the trunk, it was time to cover up the wounds of the tree. You can buy “Garden Var” in the store, or you can make it yourself, especially since the ingredients are very easy to find. I use tree resin and linseed oil. For 400 g of resin you need 2 tablespoons of oil. I mix these simple ingredients and apply them to the wounds. This mixture stores well and retains its properties in any weather - I recommend it!
Moving on to the main procedure, I try to whiten the trees as high as possible, sometimes even including the lower branches. I whiten young trees almost completely.
This is the only way to protect them from temperature changes. I dilute 2.5 kg of lime, 300 g of copper sulfate for additional disinfection and about a kilogram of clay in 10 liters of water. This solution adheres well to the tree trunk.
Whitewash until completely white; thin whitewashing will not provide protection.
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Whitewashing ceilings with lime or chalk is one of the traditional and well-tested methods of updating them, allowing you to quickly organize cosmetic repairs of a particular room. In comparison with modern methods of decorating ceilings (arranging tension systems, for example), this method of finishing ceiling surfaces is the simplest and cheapest.
When preparing for work, you should decide on the source material on the basis of which you will prepare the finishing composition (lime or chalk).
Note! Experts advise choosing the material that was used in the previous renovation. If this rule is violated, streaks may appear on the ceiling.
And, of course, each of these materials has its own characteristics. Lime, for example, has the ability to close microscopic cracks, making the ceiling surface more even and smooth. In turn, the chalk solution allows you to obtain a coating of ideal whiteness. Thus, when choosing a particular material, you should focus primarily on your preferences.
In our article we will look at the technology for preparing whitewash based on both of these components.
Preparation of lime whitewash
To prepare the lime finishing composition you may need the following components:
- slaked lime;
- pure water;
- drying oil;
- 50 grams of table salt;
- a bag of blue or ultramarine.
Before diluting lime to whitewash the ceiling, you will need to prepare 2–3 kilograms of the starting material and 5 liters of hot water. The required volume of the finished composition is usually determined from the calculation that for every 2.5 m² of surface treated, approximately half a kilo of lime and 0.75 liters of clean water are consumed.
To obtain the optimal composition, first dissolve slaked lime in prepared water, and then sequentially add all the auxiliary components. To give the finished whitewash additional plasticity and durability, add a little drying oil (one third of a tablespoon) and about 5 grams of table salt to the mixture. After this, the finished solution is mixed well and then immediately filtered through a sieve, which allows you to remove large lumps of lime and other impurities from it.
Note! To give the ceiling whitewash a slight bluish tint, 20 grams of blue is added to it, which will provide the ceiling with additional attractiveness in natural light.
Before diluting chalk for whitewashing, you should familiarize yourself with one of the options for its preparation, for the implementation of which you will need:
- dry chalk;
- blue;
- container with warm water;
- ordinary gauze.
The procedure for working with chalk whitewash involves the following steps:
- First of all, you will need chalk, which is sold in the form of a thick paste (dry powder) at any hardware store. You should not be embarrassed by the fact that the purchased chalk paste has a slightly grayish tint; some time after whitewashing, the coating will certainly acquire the characteristic chalk whiteness.
- The amount of starting material required for work depends on the size of the room being treated and the thickness (consistency) of the prepared solution. Try to purchase chalk paste with a small supply; at the same time, unused remnants will always be useful to you during subsequent repairs.
- Before starting whitewashing, it makes sense to test the technique of applying the finished composition on a small area of the surface to be finished (make a trial attempt). Thanks to this, you will be able to acquire at least some skill in working with whitewash, as well as determine the approximate consumption of the solution.
- Before preparing whitewash, be sure to sift the purchased chalk powder, which will allow you to clean it from unwanted impurities and large fragments. Then take about 2 kilograms of chalk and dilute it in 2.5–3 liters of warm water. Stir the resulting mixture thoroughly until a homogeneous mixture is formed that does not contain any visible lumps.
- Strain the finished mixture through gauze laid in two or three layers, periodically rinsing it with clean running water. As a result of the operations performed, you should receive a ready-to-use mass that resembles liquid sour cream in its consistency.
Video
You can find out more about how to dilute lime by watching the following video:
Whitewashing and dyeing are the most known variants ceiling repair. For many centuries, these finishing methods were the most common. And even nowadays, despite the fact that the choice ceiling coverings V Lately has become wider and more diverse, these methods continue to be popular.
One of the advantages of these methods of ceiling repair is that when painting and whitewashing, the height of the room does not decrease (as, for example, when installing a stretch or suspended ceiling).
If we talk about the service life of a painted and whitewashed ceiling, it depends on the quality of the materials used, the qualifications of the craftsmen performing the finishing, and also on how carefully the base surface of the ceiling was pre-prepared.
Surface preparation
Before whitewashing, the surface of the ceiling must be prepared: cleaned of various stains, as well as old whitewash, repaired all cracks and irregularities, and then primed. This has already been discussed earlier, but I would like to once again dwell on some techniques for finishing the ceiling.
To seal cracks and other similar defects on the ceiling, you will need putty, which you don’t have to buy, but make yourself. Sufficiently high-quality putty can be made according to the following recipe: you need to dilute 2.5 kg of lime paste (slaked lime with a thick consistency) in 5 liters of water, then add 50-100 g of ordinary table salt dissolved in hot water, after which the amount of water in the mixture is increased to 10%, while not forgetting to mix it thoroughly. After this, you need to strain the future putty through a fine sieve and add to it 1.5 g of 10% wood glue with chalk powder mixed in it (150-200 g). Putty of this composition can also be successfully used for priming surfaces.
The putty is usually applied to the surface manually using a spatula.
After the ceiling surfaces have been cleaned and puttied, they are coated with a primer prepared according to the recipe for the above putty, or according to another recipe based on slaked lime. In the latter case, we take 3 kg of slaked lime of a dough-like consistency, 200 g of laundry soap and 50-100 g of drying oil.
Cut the soap into thin shavings, dissolve in 6 liters of hot water, add drying oil. Separately, lime is diluted in 4 liters of water. Mix both solutions and the primer is ready. Before use, the prepared composition must be diluted with water to a total volume of 10-11 liters.
The purpose of priming the ceiling surface is to create an even, thin, smooth film on the surface through which the paint will not penetrate, which will allow the latter to lie on the surface in an even layer and dry evenly. The primer is carefully applied to the surfaces to be treated with a brush or spray roller. And when it dries, you can start whitewashing.
You can whitewash the ceiling with lime or chalk whitewash, but it must be taken into account that if the ceiling has been whitewashed with lime, then you cannot use chalk whitewash as stains and stains will certainly appear on the ceiling.
Lime whitewash
Recipe lime whitewash:
2-3 kg of slaked lime are diluted in a small amount of water, 400-500 g of dye, 50-100 g of salt or 150-200 g of potassium alum are added. Gradually adding water, the volume is adjusted to 10 liters.
For whitewashing with lime, so-called lime milk is used, which is strong disinfectant. It destroys bacteria and prevents the accumulation and reproduction of bedbugs in residential areas.
The crushed lime is placed in a large metal, enamel or wooden container and poured cold water and stir with a wooden spatula until the cream becomes thick. When slaked, lime releases a large number of heat and splashes, so you need to be careful.
Whitewashing of ceilings with a lime composition is carried out on a slightly damp surface.
Whitewashing with chalk
Chalk whitewash recipe: 5 liters of water are heated to 40-50 degrees, 30 g of wood glue and 3 kg of sifted chalk are poured into it (once such chalk was purchased in the cosmetics department - ordinary tooth powder).
Whitewashing: selection and application
This amount is enough to process 10 square meters. m of ceiling. Blue is often added to chalk whitewash. In this case, the recipe could be as follows: 2-3 kg of chalk, 90 g of wood glue, 60 g of laundry soap and 17 g of blue.
Chalk mortar is prepared in the same way as lime mortar. It is much more convenient to use ready-made chalk paste sold in stores, as it will eliminate the long and painstaking process of grinding and sifting chalk.
Place chalk or paste in a container and gradually add water until required quantity, thoroughly mixing the solution. Then it is filtered through cheesecloth. Large parts of chalk remain on the gauze, increasing material consumption; This must be taken into account when purchasing chalk.
To avoid a yellowish tint to the ceiling, add a little blue or ultramarine to the whitewash. However, this should be done with extreme caution.
Apply whitewash using a pneumatic spray gun, roller or brush.
When painting ceilings, take into account the direction of light rays penetrating the windows. If you work with a brush, then last layer The whitewash is applied towards the light (toward the window), and the previous one is applied, on the contrary, across. Otherwise, no matter how carefully the work is done, brush marks will be visible on the ceiling. The brush is used so that its strokes are uniform and the whitewash is applied in thin, even layers. In order for the surface to be smooth and clean, it is necessary not only to work competently with a brush, but also to correctly pick up the coloring composition with the brush. It must be shaken periodically with a brush: this gives it uniformity and prevents sediment from forming at the bottom. You can also stir it thoroughly with a stick from time to time.
Position of the spray gun when painting the ceiling
Another option for applying whitewash is using a paint sprayer. Some people use a vacuum cleaner equipped with a special attachment for this purpose.
When working with a paint sprayer, it is necessary to ensure the uniformity and cleanliness of the solution: any small particle that does not dissolve in it can clog the opening of the sprayer and in some cases lead to its damage. To uniformly whitewash the surface, the solution must be applied in two mutually perpendicular directions, that is, crossing the layers. The speed of movement must be uniform; you cannot hold the jet of whitewash in one place longer than in others.
Traditional whitewashing of the ceiling with your own hands in an apartment
HOW TO MAKE WHITE WHITE FROM CHALK AT HOME
Whitewash made from chalk is suitable only for interior finishing the apartment, at home and in any room not exposed to moisture, chalk whitewash is used mainly for plastered surfaces. Whitewash is applied only to well-dried plaster. How the paint adheres depends on the quality of the surface, so walls and ceilings must be primed, especially thoroughly contaminated areas. Whitewash from pure chalk lies on walls and ceilings without creating durable coating, crumbles and becomes shallow when touching such walls. Therefore, all chalk whitewashes are prepared with the addition of binding materials; they are mainly used to improve whitewashing. drying oil and glue. With such adhesive additives whitewashed walls they look more even, and the whitewash lies evenly on the surface, making it durable and of high quality.
From dry paint compositions, purchased in a store, ready for use, a whitewash solution is prepared at home immediately before use. To do this, add water to dry paint and dilute it to the required consistency. Add 40-50 ml of drying oil to the paint, mix well and use this solution for painting for 24 hours.
Dextrin paints or paints containing bone glue are diluted warm water in a 1:1 ratio, leave the mixture for 4-6 hours, stir and start painting.
To prepare whitewash or dry ground chalk at home, you need to take 10 liters of paint to prepare white 3-4 kilograms of chalk, 250g of wood glue and 150g of ultramarine, which will help whiten the chalk.
Pour the chalk into a bucket and dilute with water to the desired thickness. The blue is diluted in a small amount of water, then the addition of water is stirred and poured into the chalk solution. First you need to soak the wood glue for 10-12 hours, then prepare the glue.
The finished glue must be added to the chalk solution and stirred well. At this moment, you need to monitor the amount of glue, since it is difficult to accurately determine the amount of glue added. Therefore, after pouring a little glue into the chalk whitewash, you need to stir it and apply a little on the glass, dry it and touch the whitewash to look at your hand. If your hand remains clean, then there is enough glue. If your hand gets dirty with chalk, it means there is not enough glue. If there are shiny stripes on the surface, there is too much glue. Excess glue in chalk whitewash leads to peeling of the coating and cracking.
To prepare whitewash from chalk of various colors, water-soluble pigments are added to the paint. For 10 liters of finished adhesive chalk paint, you need to add 300-400g of dry pigment, the amount of pigment depends on the desire to get a weak or rich whitewash color.
The pigment is diluted in a small amount of water and then added to the paint. Adhesive paint with pigment requires quick drying so that the color of the walls is rich, but during drying you should not create drafts.
Before whitewashing with chalk, the surface is primed with vitriol compounds. Vitriol primer can be prepared at home. You need to take chalk - 2.5 kg, copper sulfate - 125 g, laundry soap - 250 g, wood glue - 200 g, natural drying oil - 30 g. Bring 3 liters of water to a boil in a container and dissolve copper sulfate in it. Dissolve wood glue in another container.
Whitewashing the ceiling with chalk
Dissolve soap in hot water. Pour the soap solution into the glue solution, mix and add drying oil to it, then add a solution of copper sulfate to this solution.
When the solution has cooled, add chalk and increase the volume of primer to 10 liters. The finished primer is applied with brushes or a roller, dried well and whitewashed. Whitewash chalk solution produced in indoors, without drafts and at positive temperatures.
The paint can be applied with a roller, brush or spray.
What kind of renovation can there be without putting the ceiling in order! You can do this most different ways, one of the most commonly used paints not so long ago was whitewashing. This made it possible to make a beautiful, snow-white ceiling using the simplest and inexpensive materials, like lime, chalk, paste and others. Important here and proper preparation ceiling to whitewash, when carefully removed old layer whitewash, the base is leveled.
Almost anyone can prepare a mixture for whitewashing. This requires chalk, lime, special chalk paste, and blueing. All of the components listed can be purchased at any hardware store. Approximately 0.5 liters of chalk is required per square meter of surface liquid solution, but it is recommended to first try it on a small area to determine the correct layer thickness. In order for the lime or chalk to be of high quality, it is not necessary to buy a ready-made solution; you can make it yourself.
Before cooking, it is recommended to sift the chalk to remove all large particles and impurities. After this, 1.5 kg of chalk is poured into the container and 2.5 liters of water are poured. The solution should be homogeneous and free of lumps. We filter the resulting mixture through three layers of gauze, after which you can begin to work.
Can already be used ready-made mixtures, which are simply filled with water, lime and blue. Over the years of its use, a lot of options for whitewashing have accumulated; each owner has his own recipe, but there is one “but”. In order to properly whiten the base of the ceiling, you need to take into account what mixture was used before. If chalk was used, then the chalk solution must be whitened this time too, otherwise ugly, dirty stains will appear on the surface, which will be very difficult to remove. It also takes time, and this work is dirty, leaving behind a lot of dust.
Applying whitewash to the ceiling
To renew the whitewash, you must first properly prepare the surface, that is, remove all traces of the old coating, putty and prime the base, after which you can begin applying the mixture to the ceiling. This is a traditional finishing method that has been proven over the years, so there are also rules for working here.
Before whitewashing the ceilings with chalk or lime begins, the surface should be thoroughly cleaned of traces of the old coating.
This work is very dusty, dirty, and takes certain time, but in order to properly and efficiently update the ceiling, you must first remove the old whitewash.
You will have to first do the following range of work:
- remove the furniture from the room and cover the remaining pieces with film covers;
- cover the floor with film, as cleaning it later will be problematic;
- prepare a table or a reliable stepladder for work;
- prepare glasses for protection, latex gloves and a respirator.
Can be done with your own hands various methods, among which:
- dry cleaning. That is, the ceiling is simply cleaned of old whitewash using a metal spatula. This method is the slowest, most labor-intensive and dirty. Dust will be everywhere, the process is long, for large premises not recommended, and it will be extremely difficult to work in small ones;
- The second cleaning method is to simply wash away the old whitewash using a hard rag or brush. This requires significant physical effort, and there will be a lot of dirt;
- can also be used washing vacuum cleaner, which will minimize time and physical effort, but the equipment may fail, so take risks household vacuum cleaner Not recommended;
- The next option on how to clean off old whitewash with your own hands is this: first wet it with a spray bottle small area, after soaking, the old whitewash is removed with a scraper. The remaining small mass is removed with a damp cloth. This method is suitable for small spaces;
- Most often, in order to remove whitewash from the surface with your own hands, a soap solution is used. To do this we will need to warm water(10 l) dilute two tablespoons of laundry soap, five tablespoons of soda. Using an ordinary sponge and this solution, old whitewash will quickly be washed off the ceiling;
- You can remove a lot of whitewash with a paste solution, which is applied to the surface and, after drying, knocked off with a metal spatula (do not forget to place the container on the floor so that the broken pieces fall into it);
- the most quick option is the use grinding machine with a coarse abrasive wheel. But this method is very dusty, the room must be completely closed, and safety glasses and gloves must be used.
Return to contents
Do-it-yourself ceiling putty and priming
Afterwards you need to putty its surface. You can prepare the mixture yourself:
- Two parts chalk, two parts diluted wood glue (a mixture of 50 g of glue and 1 liter of water), one part plaster, mix well. After which the resulting putty can be applied to the ceiling.
- You can prepare another composition: mix 2.5 kg of slaked lime in five liters of water, then take 4 tbsp. spoons of table salt with hot water. The resulting mixture is supplemented with water up to 10 liters. After this, 200 g of chalk is mixed in 10% glue (1.5 l), both mixtures are mixed. You can begin to putty the ceiling.
At the penultimate stage of finishing, the ceiling surface is covered with a special primer. A homemade mixture is perfect for this:
- The following components are needed: 3 kg of slaked lime, a bar of ordinary laundry soap, 50 g of drying oil;
- the soap is grated (preferably a coarse one), completely dissolved in hot water and mixed with drying oil;
- diluted lime must be prepared separately in water, both compositions are mixed together to form a homogeneous solution;
- Now the volume is increased to 10 liters and applied to the ceiling surface with your own hands using a roller or brush.