A fiberboard ceiling is a simple solution that saves a lot of hassle. The main ones are that the fiberboard surface does not need to be plastered and leveled. All that remains is the finishing touches.

If you are just thinking about installing a fiberboard ceiling, it makes sense to pay attention to laminated panels. They are already finished - one side is laminated. Moreover, the palette is quite wide - although fiberboard panels are often used to decorate walls, it is also easy to choose for ceilings.

Palette of fiberboard panels for the ceiling
painted fiberboard panel sheets

If ordinary panels are attached to the ceiling, then, of course, the question arises about painting them. How to paint a fiberboard ceiling to get a full, durable and beautiful coating?

How to prime a fiberboard ceiling

• The surface assembled from fiberboard is coated with a primer before painting. What does priming do?
• The paint adheres more strongly to the surface and does not come off in any areas. This is important for the smoothness of the fiberboard surface.
• The paint layer is smooth and neat.
• The primer reduces the absorption activity of the material by 2-3 times. This means that paints for high-quality coating you will need significantly less.

Due to their high absorbency, fiberboards are not easy to prime. On sale you can find primers intended for processing this material; this is usually indicated in the instructions on the packaging. Basically, the problem is solved by alkyd primers with a high drying speed, as well as with acrylic latex in the composition. There are special primers for water based.

Priming fiberboard allows you to save paint and get an even coating

You can treat the fiberboard with heated drying oil as a primer. Apply the mixture to the surface of the sheets only once, the second time will not be absorbed and will remain sticky. The quality of painting will also suffer from the fact that the second layer of drying oil can form uneven surfaces.

It is more convenient to first prime the slabs, and only then, after drying, attach them to the ceiling. But this is only possible with the installation of a new ceiling.

How to putty fiberboard before painting

One slab for the ceiling is not enough, so you can’t do without puttying the joints. The process is simple: the seams are filled with putty, and reinforced tape is applied on top.

It is advisable to use alkyd putty - for elastic, springy fiberboard sheets it is suitable for its plasticity.

If there are few joints, you can use acrylic-silicone sealant.

The seams between the sheets can be puttied or covered with strips, including decorative ones.
You can embed inserts from another suitable material into the fiberboard ceiling.
Before finishing You can make carvings on the fiberboard ceiling panels

How and how to paint a fiberboard ceiling

If the fiberboard is well primed, painting it is no longer such a problem. Many paints will be used: alkyd, oil, acrylic, even water-based. A good choice- Pinotex.

Fiberboard panels painted mahogany

Focus on what effect you want to get. For example, alkyd enamel will make the surface smooth and shiny, similar to plastic (especially if painted in White color). Water-soluble paint will make the fiberboard ceiling matte, reminiscent of a traditional, high-quality painted-whitewashed ceiling. True, moisture-resistant fiberboard will not accept water-based emulsion - they are impregnated with paraffin, and the applied paint will slide off the sheets.

The fiberboard on the ceiling can be painted with water-based paint
A painted ceiling made of fiberboard panels can be varnished

If you decide to paint the ceiling like wood, it is best to use bitumen varnish. By the way, with its help you can get not only color, but also, to some extent, the “texture” of wood (visual effect). To do this you will need a special spatula applicator. It is flexible and made of rubber. If you run the grooved side of the applicator over the layer of just applied varnish, you will get stains on the wood cut.

Flexible spatula applicator for applying to different surfaces wood textures
Wood pattern on hardboard

Varnish and fiberboard ceilings painted with oil, alkyd and other paints – the coating becomes shiny and very easy to clean.

You can make an interesting, very elegant and durable ceiling decoration. For this purpose, prepared (primed, puttied) fiberboard sheets are pasted over paper wallpaper, after which they are coated with varnish (parquet, yacht, etc.) in several layers.

Leave your review

For some time now it has become an obsessive tradition that a painting should be executed on canvas in oil. Different types arts have long been of varying interest to their fans. Some especially gifted individuals devote their lives to this already professional level. The good news is that recently the circle of purchasers of original works of art has noticeably expanded.

Among them there are not only knowledgeable, understanding, experienced, more or less knowledgeable fans, but also, increasingly, simply not indifferent amateurs. Just please, no offense. In other forms of art, I myself am a decent amateur. This is now our level or the level of our culture. The limits of understanding of the majority of such connoisseurs are “like it, don’t like it, some friends have this, etc.” And they, as a rule, want to have oil paintings on canvas. This word "canvases" What once unconsciously sunk into their consciousness now sits there like a thorn, becoming a criterion, a standard. On canvas - this is genuine art, not on canvas - this is something from the “beware of fakes” series. And such connoisseurs come to artists for paintings in advance with an unhealthy mistrust. They conduct conversations, feigning competence, saying the key words “canvas, canvases, on canvases.” At the same time, teaching. And, in my opinion, here everything is decided by the master, which means to use depending on the creative tasks. But rather, out of necessity, the performing artist has to follow the lead of such customers according to the principle “for your money, your every whim.”

Previously I wrote on canvases. Canvas is a fabric woven from threads made from flax fibers. Fabrics woven from threads made from fibers of other plants have different names. Preparing the right canvas for an oil painting on a fabric base or canvas is quite difficult and expensive. The slats for the stretcher, on which the canvas will subsequently be stretched, must be made of wood coniferous species, properly dried, straight-layered, without knots or other defects. Otherwise, the slats may subsequently bend, the canvas may become deformed, and wrinkles will appear. When there are changes in humidity fabric base sagging or stretching too much. If the picture is very large, then there is a tendency for the fabric base to sag from its own weight. Further, with careless use, dents, bumps, tears and other things may appear on the surface of the paintings. mechanical damage, arising from pressure, impacts, etc.

Further work When it comes to sizing and priming, it’s better to do the same thing yourself. It's complicated. There is a danger of re-sticking the canvas. There are many soil recipes. The recipe for the selected primer composition, the technology for its preparation and application should be strictly observed. It is necessary to thoroughly clean out knots and other irregularities. Ready-made primed factory canvases do not suit me, just like my artist friends. Nodules are not cleaned at the factory. And with a fine writing style, like mine, for example, all these little bumps become visible, sparkle, and when illuminated from the side, they also cast a shadow. You may come across a canvas with a very strong pulling soil or with poor grip with a paint layer. For example, some famous paintings I. Repin, painted on primed factory canvases, the paint is crumbling. It is still unknown how these soils are mixed; the list could take a long time.

Now about the stretchers. A little history. At first for a long time the subframes were rigid and motionless. In the 18th century, movable stretchers with wedges appeared, which can be used to adjust the degree of canvas tension if necessary. However, in the 19th century, artists again returned to the fixed structure. Now on sale in the assortment are entirely movable stretchers with wedges, even in small postcard-sized formats. I think everything is simple here. Behind additional details and carpentry operations are more expensive. It is more difficult to stretch the canvas onto a movable stretcher. Adjusting canvas tension using wedges is ineffective. The nails holding the canvas are driven in and cannot be moved apart. Therefore, the canvas can only be tightened or loosened in an area within a narrow strip along the edges along the perimeter, width from the edge to the first nail.

With the advent Fibreboard (fibreboard, hardboard) Another type of pictorial basis appeared. From the experience of my personal and other artists, fiberboard is a simple, convenient, durable, rigid, fairly elastic, unpretentious, ready-to-use, cheap, accessible base, always on sale. Paintings painted on a strong, rigid base, in in this case on properly prepared fiberboard, have much less problems and more advantages than paintings on a fragile fabric base, canvas. Canvases for paintings made from fibreboard, in comparison with canvas, “forgive” many mistakes when preparing them for oil painting, which may occur during sizing and priming. They almost do not react to changes in temperature and air humidity. I paint all my exhibition paintings on fiberboard., and they are easily tolerated, as a rule, bad conditions long-distance transportation to exhibitions. In frames, tied in pairs, facing inwards, with special soft pads between the frames, they are strong packages in themselves.

Large format fiberboard straight from the store, as a rule, the surface is slightly curved for various reasons. I've seen how to support and level my paintings big size on fiberboard canvases, famous craftsmen use a solid, rigid, independent wooden lattice frame made of thin slats, simply leaning against reverse side paintings and fixed with frame. Glue wooden slats It is not possible for fiberboard. At the same time, the existing slight curvature of the surface of the paintings is preserved. To solve this problem, there is my simple little invention based on the experience of the restorers of the Tretyakov Gallery. I strengthen the base of the painting from large format fiberboard with an area of ​​approximately 1.5 m2 to the largest standard size 170*275 cm parquet flooring. This lightweight wooden a lattice frame firmly attached to the fiberboard on the back of the picture. It levels and holds its entire surface in a plane, while remaining completely movable. Everything has been tested by 8 years of practice.

Fiberboard also has one side that is smooth and the other side embossed, similar to the grain of canvas. It's up to you to choose from.
Having suffered with canvases at one time, I long ago chose a strong, rigid, fairly flexible base, fiberboard.

From the history of painting materials, very briefly

Basics for easel oil painting:
Wood is the earliest material, from the 13th century. (Leonardo da Vinci painted the famous “La Gioconda” on a poplar board in oil. To this day, icons are traditionally painted on boards in tempera.)

Fabric - later, from about the 16th century, more widely from the 17th century. (Canvas, four slats, stretched, nailed and flat surface ready. It's much faster and easier than making a board, but not as durable.)

Metal – from the 16th century.

Parchment and paper - from the 9th century.

But, if the painting must subsequently be removed from the stretcher and rolled, which already shortens its lifespan, then a fabric base, canvas, is the best option.

And therefore, when the conversation comes up about what material to use for paintings, I first objectively explain the whole situation. The final decision is up to the customers, so that there are no complaints later.

A little about my painting

I try to bring the compositions of paintings to perfection and, at the same time, so that the landscapes of my native places are recognizable. I paint mostly with oil paints. My writing is multi-layered, it takes time, many sessions. I try to follow technology. I dry the layers correctly, at least for the required time. I use special varnishes for layer-by-layer painting, wiping them over sufficiently dry paint layers for better adhesion to subsequent layers and to prevent the paints from fading. I already have more than 100 colors and their shades oil paints. I study the properties of paints. For each painting, depending on the creative task, I select a group of paints by color and chemical composition so that the mixtures are favorable and the paintings do not subsequently change color and tone. I prepare the topcoat varnish in such a way that varnish coating preserved the depth of colorful tones and did not give reflections that interfere with perception. Simple frames I can make it for myself, but more serious, luxurious ones can be ordered from art salons.

If anyone is interested in my little invention for parquet flooring of fiberboard panels for large paintings, let me know. It takes time to describe in detail, although everything is very simple.
That's all for now.

www.artur-vuimin.narod2.ru
Email: [email protected]

In this article we will look at a number of pressing issues, one way or another related to how and with what to paint fiberboard on the ceiling. Similar questions have to be faced when carrying out both capital and cosmetic repairs. But before you start choosing paint and varnish materials, let’s decide what the surface is on which it is supposed to be applied.

Main characteristics of the base

The abbreviation DVP stands for the following:

• the letter "P" means slab;
• the letter “D” indicates that the material is made of wood;
• The letter “B” means that the board is not made using solid wood, but from individual fibers, which, by mixing with special resins, are glued together into a material homogeneous in composition.

As a rule, one side of the fiberboard is made laminated. For this reason, this material can be used without painting. But if the color design of the laminated side does not fit into the interior, you will still have to paint the slab.

Before deciding what to paint the fiberboard on the floor or ceiling, the base must be properly prepared. Fiberboard, or hardboard as it is also called, is a porous material prone to excessive absorption of paints and varnishes. Therefore, you initially need to think about how and with what to treat the fiberboard before painting in order to avoid overuse of paint and varnish.

The way out in this situation is to use special primers, which will simultaneously strengthen the surface of the slab and reduce its porosity by an order of magnitude. After you have decided how to cover the fiberboard before painting, the surface of the base is mandatory must be sanded to ensure better adhesion to the primer.

Again, when choosing how to paint fiberboard on the ceiling or walls, you need to decide on the type of tools used. Based on our experience, we suggest using a velor roller both when applying primer and when painting, since using a brush and spray is unlikely to achieve the desired result.

LMB selection

As already mentioned, before painting the fiberboard on the wall, it should be primed. Considering the characteristics of hardboard, it can be assumed that not every composition is suitable for preparing the surface. The best solution in this case would be water-based primers. deep penetration.

Hardboard is a material that is more porous than solid wood. Deep penetration soil, in turn, will fill the pores and thus minimize the degree of porosity not only on the surface, but throughout the entire thickness of the slab.

The photo shows impregnations that can be used to process fiberboard

They have proven themselves well in relation to porous materials. acrylic primers with latex fillers and antiseptic additives. Such primers not only minimize the porosity of the base, forming a smooth hydrophobic coating, but also prevent the subsequent appearance of mold.

There are no special requirements for the selection of paints and varnishes for application to properly primed hardboard. The fact is that correctly laid soil reduces the moisture permeability of fiberboard, and therefore the paint practically does not penetrate into the thickness of the slab.

Important: In order to ensure maximum quality of painting, it is advisable to use paint made from the same components as the primer. For example, if as a means for preparing hardboard you use acrylic primer, it is recommended to use acrylic paints, since in this way maximum strength and durability of the coating is achieved.

If the question of how to paint fiberboard is still relevant, we can recommend alkyd enamels, the price of which is considered the most reasonable. To apply such paints and varnishes fiberboard surface can be prepared using drying oil as a primer.

Drying oil is applied to the hardboard surface in two layers with the interval necessary for each previous layer to completely dry. High-quality laid drying oil, as well as acrylic compositions, penetrates into the pores of the slab, forming a moisture-proof surface.

Note! Alkyd enamels can be applied in one or two layers.

Features of painting work

Instructions for painting work on fibreboards It starts with applying a primer.

This is done as follows:

• We attach fine-grained sandpaper to it and pass it over the entire surface of the slab. This measure will significantly increase the degree of adhesion of paintwork materials and fiberboard.
• Then carefully sweep the surface with a soft, long-bristle brush to remove all dust.
• Uncork the container with the primer and mix it thoroughly.
• We pour the primer into a paint tray and apply the coating to the surface to be treated using a foam rubber or velor roller. We try not to leave smudges as they will deteriorate the quality of the finished paintwork.
• Apply the primer in two layers with a break of 2 hours for drying. The average impregnation consumption is about 1 liter per 10 square meters.

Important: If there are unsealed gaps where the slabs join, it’s time to putty them. To do this you will need a sickle mesh and. You can do without a special mesh by simply filling the seam with putty, but there is a possibility that a crack will develop along the seam line.

Proceed to next stage, that is, painting can be done after the treated base has completely dried. Drying times depend on the temperature and humidity content of the air in the room. On average, we proceed to the next stage in 1-2 days.

For and brush maklavitsa. A brush is the optimal means for applying paint at junctions and corners.

We do it this way:

• Mix the paint and bring it to the required consistency using the thinner specified in the instructions.
• Pour the composition into a painting tray and, immersing the roller in it, apply paint to the base.
• We paint in one or two layers, depending on the characteristics of the paintwork material used and in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

Conclusion

Now you know how to paint hardboard structures with your own hands. Moreover, now you know what materials are appropriate to use for this. All that remains is to purchase everything you need, including painting tools, and get to work.

Still have questions? You can find comprehensive answers and explanations by watching the video in this article.

/ Fiberboard on the ceiling - what to paint with?

Fiberboard on the ceiling - what to paint with?

Fiberboard – durable and inexpensive material, which is often used for finishing various surfaces– from floor to ceilings. However, if on the floor or walls such materials are usually hidden under a layer outer covering, then on ceilings such planes most often have to be painted. The painting technology is not too complicated, but it is very important to choose the right thing with which you are going to paint the fiberboard on the ceiling.

Preparing the plane

This material has one feature that forces you to approach the preparation process more carefully and devote a lot of time to it - high absorbency. Therefore, all surfaces to be painted must be carefully processed. The preparation process includes the following simple operations:

• Cleaning. The entire ceiling area intended for painting must be thoroughly cleaned of dust, dirt and other things.
• Grinding. After the surface is completely cleaned, it must be sanded smooth. If the roughness is not too strong, you can use fine-grained sandpaper, but if the defects are large enough, you will have to first use sandpaper with a coarser grain, and only then switch to fine-grained sandpaper.
• Degreasing. For a good adhesion of the paint, it is not enough to simply sand the surface. It must be degreased with alcohol or another similar composition.
• Sealing joints. There may be joints between individual fragments of the coating that need to be puttied. You will need reinforcing tape and a special type of putty, since the standard one will not work here.
• After sealing the joints, another grinding is performed, which will allow the joints of the parts sealed with putty to be leveled.
• When the last layer of putty applied has dried, the entire surface is primed. It is best to use alkyd primers with a high drying speed.

At this point, the preparation of the structure for painting is completed and it will be possible to proceed directly to the process of applying paintwork materials, having previously selected the most suitable coloring composition.

Paint selection

Despite some features of surface preparation, you can use almost any paint - acrylic, water-based or alkyd. The thing is that with a correctly selected primer mixture, the absorbency of the material is significantly reduced and almost any type of paintwork material is suitable.

Important: in order for the paint composition to “adhere” better and the quality of painting to be at its best, it is best to use solutions on the same basis as the primer mixture applied at the surface preparation stage.

It is also important to choose the right tool for applying a layer of paintwork. The main area of ​​the ceiling can be painted with a standard roller with a velor nozzle, but for better painting of the junctions of individual fragments of the coating finished with putty and reinforcing tape, it is better to use a brush - a brush or another similar one. The same brush is convenient for painting corners.

Otherwise, the choice of paint and varnish depends on your preferences regarding the resulting surface. Alkyd enamels will give the ceiling shine and smoothness, and water-soluble compounds create a matte finish that gives the structure maximum resemblance to a regular whitewashed ceiling.

The color scheme can be varied and selected according to your wishes. If you use color, it is better to immediately dilute the amount of mixture required for work. This will allow you to obtain a homogeneous composition of the same color. If you tint in several stages, there is a high probability of not matching the color of the previous composition.

Important: if for ceiling covering a moisture-resistant type of fibreboard was used, which will not work - the paraffin impregnation used to treat slabs of this type will not allow the composition to adhere properly and it will “slide” like water from greasy surfaces.

Usage special devices together with correctly selected paints or varnishes, gives interesting visual effects. For example, an alkyd varnish, which has been “walked over” with a special applicator, will create a coating similar to natural wood.

It would seem that it could be simpler than painting wood fiber boards (DFB). But when you're faced with finishing This material may encounter a number of unforeseen problems. The main one is high porosity of this type materials. This is distinctive feature of this type floor coverings. This property material is caused by the method of its production, when wood fibers are binders, under high load are pressed into thin sheet, thanks to this the material correct processing will serve you for at least 10-15 years!

To achieve the effect of durability, you first need to understand how to paint a fiberboard floor, since hardboard sheets themselves are highly porous and, thanks to this, absorb paint much more than, for example, concrete or wooden floors. To avoid excessive consumption of paints and varnishes before painting, it is recommended to pre-prime. If you don’t do this, then of course you will also paint the hardboard, but it will take a lot more materials, and the uniformity of application will not be as you wanted, since it will absorb more in one place and less in another.

Let's clearly look at what this hardboard is made of, its pros and cons, how to paint it and what we need for these procedures.

Advantages of fiberboard

As a result of pressing waste from the woodworking industry under high temperature The resulting sheets are smooth and easy to process, which are used both for making furniture and for cladding walls and floors. From positive qualities of this material it is worth noting:

Fiberboard structure

• High strength. Material marked “ST” is used in industry for cladding floors, walls of carriages, furniture production and others.
• Low price category. Due to the fact that the production of the material involves the use of any sawmill and woodworking waste with the addition of synthetic resins, antiseptics and other stabilizing substances, its cost is much competitive compared to other types of boards.
• Moisture resistance. With proper priming and painting, hardboard can easily withstand moisture.
• Durability. During manufacturing, the material is coated with a special impregnation that is not susceptible to the formation of fungi or insect pests. Thanks to this, the material will remain in its original condition for a long time.

Disadvantages of fiberboard

There are not many disadvantages to this coating:

• Low strength
• inability to use in load-bearing structures
• one-sided decor.

But despite these negative aspects this coating Excellent for laying on the floor. Accordingly, only after careful preparation and processing.

Painting technology

The technology is not much different from painting other types of materials, but we do everything step by step:

1. Selecting a tool
2. Preparing the surface
3. Choosing material
4. Applying the material
5. apply a protective layer

Necessary tool

So, let's start in order. Just before preparing the surface, we will collect everything necessary that we may need during the work. First of all, you should stock up necessary tool so that the work is completed in the shortest possible time and with less effort.

Roller with a fur coat Ditch for paint Floor brush Spatula for sealant Vacuum cleaner for cleaning the surface

• Paint roller with a nozzle made of fur rather than foam rubber
• Brush, some areas cannot be painted with a roller
• Drawer for paint
• Spatula if application of sealant is expected
• Vacuum cleaner for cleaning the surface after grouting

Now that you have prepared all the tools, let's move on to painting. But there is no need to rush here either. Next, preparatory work is needed.

Important!

Before performing any work with fiberboard, you will first need to bring the sheets needed for work to the same humidity as the air in the room where they will be laid. If this is not done, then after some time after installation they will go in waves. To comply with this condition, the back side of the sheets is usually soaked with water, the sheets are placed on top of each other and left for a day.

Surface primer

Paint is applied to the fiberboard surface only on the glossy side, since the rough side is not suitable for applying paint, but it wouldn’t hurt to soak it with a primer!

Due to the special structure of fiberboard, when painted, it absorbs 4 times more paint compared to other types of surfaces. Therefore, before painting a fiberboard floor, you must first prime it.

You can find a variety of primer products in construction markets and stores. Let's look at the most suitable material for this type.

Since ancient times, it has been customary to prime hardboard sheets with drying oil. She is the most practical for this. And its price is very competitive with imported substitutes. Its only feature is that it must be used after heating to 40C°.

Do not forget that before applying the primer to the sheets laid on the floor, you should thoroughly clean them of dust and dirt, this is done with a brush or rag. If you were clearing sandpaper, then you should use a vacuum cleaner and a damp cloth, and then let the coating dry thoroughly. Putty the cracks using reinforced tape or tape, degrease with alcohol or some other non-caustic solvent, then just apply a layer of primer. For work, it is better to use a roller with a fur coat.

The finishing coat of paint should be applied only after the primer layer has completely dried!

For a more lasting effect of resistance to moisture, we would advise you to soak the hardboard with drying oil three times. It is best to use regular drying oil, since combined ones with the addition of petroleum-polymer resins or rosin suspensions at home will take a very long time to dry, while emitting an unpleasant odor.

Cunning!

To extend the service life of hardboard sheets, it is recommended to treat them with drying oil after cutting, but before laying them on the floor. It is best to coat the ends of the sheets.

Over time, modern materials will most likely displace drying oil from the top places in sales. Since they are less odorous, they contain substances that prevent the formation of fungal infections, and applying one layer is quite enough, compared to drying oil, which is better applied in three layers.

Paint selection

Types of paint

Any enamel can be used as a material for painting fiberboard:

• water-based;
• alkyd;
• oil;
• acrylic.

How to paint hardboard floors the best solution super hard paint will be used, it is marked “ST”. Its use will provide your newly made floor with high wear resistance. Or alkyd and oil paints and then fixing them with varnish.

Important! Water-based paint cannot be used to paint a waterproof hardboard coating, since the paraffin in its composition will repel dyes from the surface.

When purchasing paint, be sure to check its characteristics, method of application, compatibility with various types primers, impregnations and calculate its consumption for the type of material you have chosen, since then you may not get the color if the quantity purchased is not enough for you. The manufacturer indicates this and other information on the packaging and in Russian.

When choosing a color, you can give free rein to your rich inner world and paint the floor any color you wish. But you can use little tricks and use color combinations.

• To finished surface the floor looked like natural wood, you should dilute the bitumen varnish and apply it with a special brush.
• To imitate plastic, the fiberboard floor should be painted with white, glossy paint.
• The matte surface is achieved by painting the hardboard with water-based paint.

If as finishing coating You have chosen Alkyd enamel, do not forget about its toxicity, so make sure that the room in which the work is carried out is well ventilated, use a respirator for work, latex gloves and other personal protective equipment.

Applying paint

When painting hardboard, we do not recommend using brushes or a foam sponge. When using these tools, the paint will not lie evenly on the floor and streaks may appear. To paint the floor fiberboard is better just take a fur roller, or if you have one, a spray bottle. If you need to paint a small area, you can initially purchase paint in cans if it is comparable to the price of a large can. Since the paint in the can also has a spray bottle, it will be more convenient and faster to paint.

Painting hardboard sheets will not only make them pleasant to look at, but will also extend their service life. It is also worth considering that important point so that the composition of the primer base matches the paint base.

Coating protection

Although paints allow you to form a fairly reliable protective covering by applying them in several layers, do not forget about additional protection, which will also have a good effect on the aesthetic appearance of the finished base in your room or apartment.

One such solution is Varnish. To prevent the varnish from curling and peeling after application, pay attention to the composition of its base. It needs to match the composition of the paint base that has already been applied to the floor.

Although painting with varnish is not a necessary procedure, it will help make the finished coating more resistant to abrasion and easier to care for.

In addition to such unpredictable decisions, there are more simple solutions. Currently, laminated fiberboard sheets have begun to appear on the market, which do not require additional processing and painting. When using this type of coating, you should take a more responsible approach to aligning joints and sealing them. And after flooring, it is still recommended to cover them with parquet varnish.

Laying fiberboard on the floor

About laying fiberboard We will tell you in the next article, but for now, for clarity, you will find the main points when laying hardboard in this diagram.

Conclusion

We hope that now you understand how to paint a fiberboard floor. But I would like to note that painting is not the only solution for covering hardboard.

As practice shows, a carefully prepared coating can not be painted, but covered with wallpaper on top, and several layers of varnish applied on top of it. The finished coating will perfectly protect fiberboard sheets from dampness and moisture, and the variety of wallpaper patterns will give your imagination plenty of room, which will allow you to decorate the floor in your apartment.

Video instruction

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