How to make a plasterboard box correctly. Plasterboard box to hide communications

When carrying out renovations, quite often you have to level the walls and ceiling, hide pipes in the bathroom and toilet, hide radiators in the kitchen, make a ceiling with lighting, so installing a plasterboard box is an excellent solution to such problems.

A plasterboard box can hide a sewer riser, level the surface for suspended ceiling, eliminate the curvature of walls and much more.

All work on the manufacture of the structure can be done with your own hands, but you must know the manufacturing technology.

You can make 2 versions of the device from plasterboard: a corner one, which has two edges, and a ceiling or wall one with three edges.

Below are instructions on how to make a box from plasterboard.

Making a corner device

Making a corner box from plasterboard with your own hands is not difficult. Basically, the corner option is installed in the toilet and bathroom due to small area premises.

Installation begins with markings. To do this, you need to make marks on the ceiling corresponding to the width of the device, and on the wall - its length.

If the structure is vertical, then the length and width are laid out on the walls. After making the marks, you need to draw lines using a building level.

Now you need to mark the volume of the structure, which is marked as follows: the extreme attachment points of the corner element are located, then perpendiculars are lowered from the lines marking the dimensions of the structure to the end parts of the structure.

If the box is horizontal, then the markings are done on the walls, if it is vertical – on the floor and ceiling.

The next step is to install a metal profile, which is attached according to the finished markings.

For fastening, holes are made with a hammer drill and dowels are driven in. It is recommended to fasten the profile on one side of the intended line.

When fastening, the shelves of the two profiles should be located at right angles to each other.
Then the corner part is trimmed and installed.

Installation of this element is carried out as follows: the corner element is inserted into the profiles at the place where they intersect. The corner element is secured with self-tapping screws. Then comes the finishing.

Now you need to make stiffening ribs from the profile, attach one edge to the profile on the wall, and the other to the corner element. The stiffening ribs are secured with ties.

The profile frame is ready, now you need to cover it with plasterboard. It is better to cut the plasterboard sheet so that the structure is made of solid strips.

Therefore, you first need to cut off the material for the sides.

The width of the stripes corresponds to the width of the edge. Then measure the size of the remaining edge and cut the strip so that it extends to the edges of the side edges.

Drywall sheets are also secured with metal screws at a distance of 15–20 cm.

When the installation of the plasterboard box is completed, its finishing begins. It is quite possible to make it yourself.

The coating can be painted, tiled, etc.

Ceiling or wall option

It is possible even for a novice builder to assemble a plasterboard box in a toilet, under a bathtub or in another room with your own hands for a ceiling or wall type.

To create ceiling structures, first, markings are made for the plasterboard box on the ceiling.

At the location of the plasterboard structure, two parallel lines are drawn that go onto the walls (during installation ceiling version) or on the floor and ceiling (when installing a wall version).

The distance between the lines corresponds to the width of the structure, and the lines perpendicular to them, which need to be drawn on the walls, correspond to the height of the structure and indicate the attachment points of the corner elements.

Installation of the guide profile and preparation of corner elements is carried out similarly to the corner version.

Now 2 corner elements are made from the profile, which must be positioned in such a way that it is possible to install stiffeners.

Now the frame for the plasterboard box on the ceiling is being strengthened.

Strengthening wall and ceiling frame performed in the same way as during installation corner option, with the only difference that the stiffeners are installed on three sides, at a distance of 60 cm.

The installation of the frame is completed - it is sheathed with plasterboard and its finishing begins.

It is possible to make a plasterboard box on the ceiling with lighting. Installation robots can be made by hand.

A backlit device is made as follows: first you need to make markings for lighting and secure the electrical wires.

They must be mounted in such a way that they do not interfere with the installation of the device.

Then you need to prepare the transverse guides and insert them into the frame. The guide profile is aligned to the wall at a right angle and secured with self-tapping screws. Then the entire structure is secured.

After installing a ceiling device with lighting, the ceiling looks like a multi-level one. The backlit device can be made over the entire ceiling area or as a device in the form of geometric shapes.

When making the box, all wires must be hidden. After this, for lighting it is necessary to make holes, having previously made markings on the drywall.

The material, previously cut into strips, is screwed to the profile according to the markings, then the lighting is carefully inserted into the holes.

After completing the installation of the illuminated ceiling box, the drywall can be puttied, painted or decorated with decorative trim.

Installation Features

The construction of a plasterboard box has several nuances that are recommended to be taken into account when doing the work yourself, so that this design did not cause any inconvenience and served for many years.

For example, when making a box to hide a sewer pipe, you must take into account that the couplings with bends on the pipe, the so-called revisions, cannot be closed without leaving access to them.

For such couplings, a special opening must be left during installation to provide access from the outside. This window is closed with special plastic doors.

Access is also needed to the joints internal sewerage and the central riser, since after some time repairs may be required.

When installing a plasterboard box under the bathtub to cover the water supply or radiator, there must be an opening at the locations of meters, valves, vents and other elements.

To make such an opening, you need to make holes 4 mm larger than the size of the door that will cover the hole. This can be done both before and after installing the plasterboard battery box.

If an opening is left for access to the inspection of the sewer riser in the bathroom or toilet, then it must be located on the front side of the structure.

If the hatch is intended for access to valves or other elements of the water supply system, then it can be located on the side.

In the toilet or kitchen, in places where pipelines pass through the structure, the hole must be made larger than the diameter of the pipe.

There should be a gap left that can be filled with polyethylene foam.

Thus, installing the box will allow you to hide communications in the bathroom and toilet, level walls and corners, hide radiators in the kitchen, level the ceiling, and also make the ceiling illuminated.

All this can be done quickly, inexpensively and for many years.

After reading the article, you learned how to make a drywall box yourself.

In the house, many people are faced with a situation where it is necessary to hide certain functional elements: pipes, communications, hoods, etc. In order to hide these visually unpresentable parts, a plasterboard box is used. Today, this material is used more often than others due to its following advantages:

easy to process;
simple installation;
external finishing of any version of a plasterboard box is possible with a wide variety of materials: tiles, wallpaper, painting;
allows you to create a unique interior;
strength and reliability;
ease of construction;
installation possible additional elements backlight.

If you wish, you can make a box from plasterboard with your own hands. Just a few nuances will help you cope with this.

The production of a plasterboard box is carried out based on its purpose and the chosen design of the room decorations.
First you need to decide on the type of material, since not all plasterboard sheets are suitable in this situation. Depending on the purpose and installation location, the following plasterboard options are used:

ordinary. Such a plasterboard box is placed in any premises where there is normal level humidity;
moisture resistant. Thanks to impregnation with a special composition, this material used for boxes that will be installed in bathrooms, toilets, kitchens, garages and other rooms where there is high humidity;
fire resistant. It contains special additives that prevent it from burning. Often used for a plasterboard box installed in the kitchen or for a fireplace.

Note! Thickness plasterboard sheets is also determined by the purpose of the box. For walls, a thickness of 12.5 mm is best, and for arches and design elements - 6-9 mm. For the ceiling, sheets 9 mm thick should not be used, because they may not be able to withstand the required level of load.

Also, when determining the design of a gypsum plaster box, its purpose should be taken into account:

boxes on the ceiling. They are the most common, since they are the basis for constructing multi-level ceilings;

designs for walls. It will be the easiest to assemble such a box, but its installation should be carried out carefully, in compliance with all necessary technologies;

device for hiding pipes and communications. It looks like a special compartment. Such structures are often used for finishing baths, kitchens and toilets;

corner box for fireplace. Complex design, requiring precise drawings and compliance with many nuances;

hood design. One of the simplest options for assembling boxes. Can have a variety of shapes;

battery device. It is used very often in repairs and has a simple design.

Based on the purpose, the complexity of the selected design is determined and calculations are carried out necessary materials to collect it. This is very important, especially if the assembly will be done by hand.

Tools

Making boxes from plasterboard requires a certain set of tools, which includes:

dowel;
self-tapping screws;
screwdriver;
laser or construction level;
hammer;
roulette;
perforator;
special scissors (for metal);
spatulas;
construction knife (a stationery knife is also allowed);
square

Tools

Also, to make a plasterboard box with your own hands you will need the following materials:

guides and other profile options - based on the chosen design;
sealing tape;
putty and primer;
serpyanka;
plasterboard sheets.

Secrets and nuances of installation

A common question is “How to make a box from plasterboard?” To do this, you need very little - the necessary tools and materials, plus knowledge of installation technology.
Installation requires appropriate preparation. This stage involves the following actions:

marking work surface. It is necessary to draw the contours along which the support bars or profiles will then be attached. Remember that the markings will be somewhat narrower than themselves plasterboard construction;

Marking

when implementing marking works Be sure to use a level.

installation of guide bars or profiles;
securing one/several posts that form the protruding front edge of the box;
if the width of the contraction is 25 cm and the height is 1.5 m, jumpers must be installed between the support posts.
The jumpers are installed at a distance of one meter from each other.

Ready frame boxes

Note! When using wooden blocks instead of a profile, the cut points must be additionally treated with a special mastic made for working with wood. This will add stability to the structure and will also significantly increase sound insulation.

Thanks to this, the box will not creak due to possible thermal deformations of the structure.
Once everything has been installed, you can begin attaching the plasterboard sheets. To do this you need to do the following:

cut the sheets so that the box consists of single strips. You should not assemble strips from individual pieces;
First you should cut the sheets for the side edges. Their width should be the same as the width of the support posts. The stripes should not protrude beyond the supporting elements;
The sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws 35-45 cm long. The sheets must be installed to the edges every 20-25 mm. In this case, there is no need to carry out additional fastening between the racks using jumpers. Since at such a width this will not play a significant role;

Attaching sheets to the frame

then we measure out the remaining edges and cut them. The stripes should be on the side edges of the already attached edges.

Once all the plasterboard sheets have been installed, you can begin puttying work. Using putty, you should first form the corners of the box in the places where it adjoins the wall. A perforated plastic corner. Its fastening is carried out with starting putty.
After this, we apply a finishing layer of putty to the surface of the structure. Then, after drying, you can begin to prepare the surface for final finishing work.
Adhering to all technology installation work, you can easily and very quickly assemble a plasterboard box of any design. He will become like effective method hiding unwanted elements will bring novelty and originality to your interior.

Many consumers, when renovating an apartment, are concerned about the problem of closing existing radiators, pipes or beams on the walls or under the ceiling. The solution is to study the sequence of how to make a box from plasterboard. Using this easy and inexpensive material will allow you to build a neat, convenient structure that allows you to hide unenviable sewerage facilities. All you need is 3-4 sheets of plasterboard, self-tapping screws and readiness for activity.

Mounted plasterboard box to hide communications in the toilet Total price independent work may be about 2 thousand or a little more. If you invite a specialist, the cost of installation will, of course, increase.

The box can be made from other materials: plastic, chipboard, plywood, in this case the cost of the work will be significantly higher. You should choose plasterboard - a simple material that can be easily processed. Models made from gypsum plasterboard are durable, will last a long time, they are perfectly finished with ceramics, paint and other means. In addition, making a box from plasterboard with your own hands is not difficult.

Purpose of such structures

The purpose of making ceiling boxes is to hide devices located on top or sides or to remove lighting.

The process of installing a plasterboard ceiling box on the ceiling

Models can be positioned both horizontally and vertically. They can be built where the joints of the walls are, along the length of the wall, as well as on the ceiling. You need to know that installing a plasterboard box on the ceiling and other places has its drawbacks. With it, the height of the room will seem smaller, so this option is not suitable for rooms with low ceilings.

In addition, the construction of such a model is quite labor-intensive and an assistant will be needed for the work. First you need to make a drawing. At the same time, they take into account the size of the area of the upcoming work and prepare everything necessary.

What you need to have

Making boxes from plasterboard requires the following available tools:

Diagram with the names of elements for installing a plasterboard box

pencil, level, tape measure;
regular or ;
screwdriver, drill, hammer, and self-tapping screws, corners.

It should be borne in mind that for lining sewer pipes and risers it is best to use moisture resistant drywall, since the sewer system is sometimes covered with perspiration. Then you need to make marks, cut out the parts and you can begin installation. It will take up to 2 days to make a plasterboard box on the ceiling. Step-by-step instruction and watching videos will help you do the job quickly and correctly.

Frame materials

The base for the box can be made:

from wooden blocks;

Wooden structures are treated with special anti-rot agents. To assemble them, you will need long hardened self-tapping screws with a piercing tip measuring 35 mm or more. The profile frame is more durable, it does not need special preparation, and it is easier to assemble. It is advisable to fasten UD and CD samples with dowels and hammer-in European screws, and it is also necessary to use ones with a drill at the tip to connect the profiles.

Installation procedure

In order for the sequence of manufacturing the box to be correct, you need to adhere to the following scheme:

Carrying out marking

Initially, a line is drawn on the floor plane to indicate the contour in order to install guide profiles or support bars. We must not forget that the thickness of the gypsum board will be added. Taking construction corners, check whether the outlines are perpendicular to the walls and mutually.

The thickness of the box should be such that it does not connect to the pipes anywhere and has a free distance of 3 to 5 cm on all sides. You also need to leave a reserve for upcoming finishing, for example, tiles. Using a plumb line, the finished markings are transferred from the floor to the ceiling. This can be done by pulling the thread where the points are marked.

Installation of frame elements

First, parts of the profile or bars are fixed to the wall.

Drawing of the frame of a plasterboard box. Then the racks are installed in front to the side of the box that protrudes. In large boxes, barriers are built between the support posts at intervals of 1 m. Sawed wooden blocks the ends need to be processed special means- mastic. This is done for strength and sound insulation purposes, as well as to avoid the model squeaking when temperature changes.

Metal profile, supports must be made of rack material, they are secured with self-tapping screws on the guide. In a small box, jumpers are placed at a distance of 30 cm; they will add strength to the structure.

Fixing plasterboard elements

It is better to cut the material in such a way as to make a plasterboard box for pipes or a plasterboard box on the wall from whole strips, rather than from pieces.

An example of fastening elements of a plasterboard box. Initially, it is necessary to cut the strips to the side edges as wide as the frame itself, and so that they do not protrude from behind the supports. Then they measure the correct size for the next edge and cut the required strip to cover the edges of the strips on the side.

The drywall sheets are fixed using self-tapping screws. central pillars frame. Intervals are made at 25 mm.

Excessively strengthening the jumpers is not essential. Next, after fixing, they proceed to puttying and working out the corners of the box and in places adjacent to the walls. For these purposes, they are used that are fixed with a small layer. The final finish is then applied to the plane.

Design Features

It is necessary to take into account that when constructing any box, you cannot sheathe it tightly; you must leave access to sewer pipes and risers.

An example of access to pipes, risers and meters in a toilet. This is done for the following reasons:

Assembling a box in the bathroom

The owner will thereby find optimal solution to cover the shortcomings of this room, which consist in the location of the pipes outside. The cost of the material is low, and the work is not difficult, but the pipeline will be reliably protected from mechanical influences and is quite easy to access.

Following the diagram explaining how to properly make a box in the bathroom, the following steps can be distinguished:

Ceiling box in the kitchen

Will provide proper lighting working area. It is not difficult to make, but the cost of the structure will increase. A rectangular, square or dome-shaped structure where the hood is located will look especially good. It will safely hide all communications adjacent to it. But before making the box, you need to do the following work:

Prepare fastenings to the ventilation duct and cover all parts with corrugation.
Carefully paint and prime the pipes to prevent corrosion.
Handle polyurethane foam careless openings near pipes.

The sequence of work is similar to the previous one, only they are placed in the structure electric wires and make holes for lamps, which are connected after finishing.

The process of installing a ceiling box in the kitchen A unique box for the kitchen made of plasterboard will look original and will allow you to competently and comprehensively illuminate the room.

Making a box in the toilet

To create a clean and tidy bathroom in your home, these are suitable. With its help you will be able to hide all unsightly communications. The material is quite easy to work with, its cost is low and its service life is long, so a box in a plasterboard toilet will be an excellent find for solving the issue of room improvement. This model lends itself well to finishing with paint, ceramics, and wallpaper.

Installing a box in the toilet Armed with the necessary knowledge, making a box in the toilet will not be difficult, especially since the technology for its production is similar to the previous one:

Drywall device for curtains

The design with can be an excellent solution to the problem of closing the cornice. To make such a model you will need sheets of drywall, a profile and fasteners. Box size above window opening will be determined by the volume of the curtains. Made for light curtains small model, for heavier ones - more difficult.

The material is measured and marked; this will depend on the width and depth of the structure, and it, in turn, depends on the size of the curtains.

When arranging several rows, you need to simulate the action to see how it will all look with the overall interior of the room. It will be possible to determine how much such work costs only after selecting curtain models and taking all measurements.

Illuminated box

This design is more complex due to the installation of lamps.

Design of a plasterboard box with lighting. They will help make the atmosphere extraordinary and increase the level of illumination in the room. Such models look best in a nursery, kitchen, or bathroom.

Some nuances

Before installing a backlit box, all the details must be thought through:

in what places the lamps will be installed and how many of them;
at what distance should the soffits be installed?
where to place switches and lay wires.

The sequence of work on making a backlit plasterboard box can be as follows:

Following this, the plasterboard sheets are secured:

A plasterboard box has the ability to create the appearance of. It can also be combined with tension structures.

The appearance of the bathroom can hardly be called beautiful due to the pipes visible from everywhere. If you hide them, the bathroom can be transformed. That's why they use a plasterboard box in the bathroom. It allows you to hide sewer drains, risers and water pipes. You can also use the box to provide additional lighting.

The box is mainly needed so that the ugly pipes are hidden and do not frighten you with their appearance. Moreover, even after sewing up the pipes, you have the opportunity to install shelves on the box. So this design is multifunctional.

You can always leave a hatch to have access to water meters

If you make a vertical box in the bathroom from plasterboard with your own hands, then it can be equipped with additional spotlights, which will create a unique atmosphere. You can also resort to classic version when the lighting is located on horizontal design. In both options, you need to bother with the lamps themselves, because the necessary special materials, devices and equipment for working in rooms with high moisture content.

To sum up, we can say that a plasterboard box in a bathroom has the following functional purposes:

Hides sewer pipes.
Hides water pipes.
Serves as a base for shelves.
Serves as a basis for lighting.

Depending on the need, the box can be vertical or horizontal, small or large, narrow or wide. The method of its installation also depends on this. It’s one thing to make a thin box for a bathtub from plasterboard, and quite another thing to mount a wide box directly under the ceiling.

Preparatory work

In order for the work process to go quickly and without hitches, you need to prepare in advance so as not to get stuck in the process. It all starts with a drawing. It's very simple. You already know which pipe needs to be hidden, so all that remains is to think about the dimensions future design, it is enough to step back from the pipe 2-5 centimeters in both directions and attach the profile there. This distance will be quite enough, and there is no need for us to hide the place.

When covering a vertical pipe, it is necessary to use a plumb line, because it may have a certain slope. The pipe will extend as far as possible from the wall near the floor or ceiling. From this place you need to retreat a couple of centimeters, and then move the point to the opposite surface.

The drawing itself can be created on a piece of paper for greater clarity, or you can make all the markings on the wall without using a drawing. Before making a plasterboard box for pipes in the bathroom, you need to mark it. We will consider the option with pipes that run vertically in the corner, because this situation occurs in the vast majority of cases.

Marking for the box in the middle of the room

As already written above, a plumb line is used to mark points on the floor and ceiling near the walls. With the help of this simple device they will be clearly opposite each other, which will create an even frame. Then, using a painting cord or profile with a pencil, parallel lines are drawn on the walls, which will indicate the place where the guides will be attached.

Now you will need to draw lines from the marked points on the floor and ceiling so that they form a right angle in both cases.

After simple markings, you need to cut the gypsum board into strips of the required size, so as not to fool around with small space With large sheets. It is necessary to cut two strips for the entire length of the sheet along the width of the box. You will also need a couple more small pieces, the length of which depends on the height of the ceiling. For a box 25*25 cm one is enough standard sheet drywall. The material will still remain.

Frame installation

A plasterboard box in a bathroom has the same assembly principle, regardless of whether the riser or distribution pipes are hidden. To work you will need:

metal screws;
dowels;
guide and rack profiles;
metal scissors;
screwdriver and hammer drill;
level.

The profiles are joined together at right angles

A continuous guide profile is attached along the lines on the wall. To install it, you need to take dowels 40 mm long and attach the guides with them in increments of 50-60 cm to the wall. After this, the same profile, but much shorter in length, is attached in two places on the floor and in two places on the ceiling along the existing lines. Two dowels in each of the four profiles will be enough ( even if the length of the guide is 20cm, you need two dowels, one is not enough). At the joints of the profiles there is no need to screw them to each other; this will be done at the time of covering with plasterboard.

Condensation often appears on the pipes and flows down. It is at the point of contact with the floor that the pipes begin to rot. Since we will not see this process, it must be prevented. To do this, the pipes are wrapped with corrugations for thermal insulation. Condensation will not appear and we don’t have to worry about what happens to the hidden pipes.

For greater structural strength, a rack profile is inserted parallel to two guides on the walls. When assembling a plasterboard box in the bathroom, we connected two short profiles at a right angle at the bottom and top. Moreover, one of them ran into the other. The rack profile must be inserted into this very different guide so that it ends up at the very corner of the structure. For these purposes, we need the CD profile, and not the UD profile that we used earlier. The central (corner) post, in fact, is not attached to anything, so it must be stiffer than the rest of the frame.

If you do not glue the tiles to the box, you can use regular guides

The stud will be firmly fixed during installation of the drywall. It will fit tightly enough into the guides and will not fall out. Of course, you need to choose a rack profile of such a size that it fits tightly into the guide. UD 27*28 and CD 60*27 are in in this case classic of the genre. We use a level all the way so that the structure comes out without distortions.

Jumpers for extra strength and hatch

Many people prefer to prepare a sufficient number of jumpers before making a plasterboard box in the bathroom. But if you are new to this business, then it is better to cut the jumpers in the process. They should be installed in increments of 40-60 cm between the central post and the wall guides. As a result, the design will be more reliable. The drywall will be attached to the studs, which will make the surface of the box stronger and smoother. The jumpers themselves can be made from both the CD profile and the UD profile (whichever you have left over). If the jumper is from rack profile, then it easily fits into the guides.

The jumpers can be secured with a notch to avoid bumps from screw heads

If it is not possible to insert the jumper directly into the profile, then you need to cut off a few centimeters of the ribs on both sides of the jumper, leaving its base. In other words, the side parts of the jumper are cut off so that it can fit between the profiles and there is a tongue with which it can be secured. They need to be secured with metal screws.

Sometimes it is necessary to leave an inspection window in the box for the meter or other needs. Therefore, you need to mark in advance the place where the hatch will be located. Simply insert jumpers along its top and bottom borders.

Plasterboard covering and finishing

Only moisture-resistant drywall can be used. It traditionally has a greenish color. Cut gypsum board sheets are attached first to one side of the box, and then to the other. Moreover, you need to make sure that the joints of the sheets are not at the same level (the design will be more reliable). Moisture-resistant drywall is fastened with black self-tapping screws 25-35 mm long in increments of 15 cm. Be sure to screw in the screws in all corners. As mentioned earlier, not only is the gypsum board attached in this place, but the profiles are also fastened to each other. Drywall must also be screwed in places where jumpers are installed.

The heads of the screws must be driven into the drywall so that they do not tear it, but also do not stick out. It is ideal to screw in the screws so that the head is pressed into the sheet by 1-2 mm. In this case, the structure will be convenient to putty, and it will not lose its strength characteristics.

Now it’s clear how to assemble a plasterboard box in the bathroom, but you need to prepare it for finishing. To do this, all screw heads are puttied, as well as all joints. It is advisable to chamfer the joints so that a small hollow is formed, where the putty is applied. The joints must first be primed so that the putty will adhere better. Reinforcing mesh is used to strengthen the joints.

It is necessary to pay careful attention to all aspects when preparing for finishing. You should perform the above procedures carefully, and then the entire gypsum board box should be primed and puttied again. After all, it will be in the bathroom, so good protection from moisture is required. Relying on moisture-resistant drywall and not thinking about anything else will not work. Very often the box is finished with tiles, which means high loads. Therefore, the structure must be strong, and the putty must not lag behind. Don’t forget about antifungal additives, but these are finishing details.

If you need to cover more than one pipe and the design of the box seems complicated, then this video can help you understand such nuances.

In progress finishing works The question often arises: how to hide electrical wires, water pipes and taps, ventilation ducts, counters spoiling the aesthetics of the interior? Perfect solution for this task - a gypsum plasterboard box. Except functional purpose it adds sophistication and uniqueness to the design of the room.

Plywood is often used for finishing, plastic panels, MDF, chipboard or fiberboard and many other materials. However, drywall is more popular among designers and builders. Advantages:

1. Cost-effective and practical. For all its advantages, it remains inexpensive. It is easy to process: you can cut, saw, groove, drill ordinary tools. For installation there is no need for careful preparation of the wall or ceiling surface.

2. Speed. The work is carried out without technical breaks for drying and shrinkage.

3. Variability of decoration. The cardboard surface can be coated with any paint and varnish, wallpaper, veneer, artificial stone or ceramic tiles.

4. Installation lighting equipment. You can install additional lamps and decorative lighting elements at any time.

5. Variety of forms. The plastic structure allows the production of systems of various configurations.

6. Easy dismantling. If necessary, part of the damaged coating or sheet can be replaced on your own with a new one without damaging the entire room.

7. Cleanliness. There are no “wet” or dirty stages in the work process.

Among the advantages, designers include the ability to create multi-level structures that visually change the space: expanding the room, stretching it in height or dividing it into functional areas.

Disadvantages of plasterboard

Drywall can easily crack and break if handled carelessly. Work with it, especially during manufacturing bent parts, you need to slowly and carefully.
Regular gray shields are afraid of water. For installation of boxes in rooms with high humidity(bathrooms, basements, kitchens should use moisture-resistant plasterboard.
Have low level thermal insulation and sound absorption. If necessary, these indicators are improved by laying insulation inside the frame.
A plasterboard box reduces the space by at least 7 cm.
It is difficult to make a structure on the ceiling yourself; you need an assistant.
The main disadvantage is the inability to secure anything heavy. If you want to use it as a shelf or hang, for example, a TV on a partition, you will need to strengthen it in advance in the right place. It will not be possible to use such a structure spontaneously.

Box material

The choice of gypsum board type depends on the installation location of the structure.

In kitchens, bathrooms, toilets and other rooms with high humidity It is recommended to use moisture-resistant boards (GKLV). The gypsum core and cardboard frame are treated with special water-repellent impregnations, thanks to which the slabs do not collapse, do not grow mold, or become covered with fungus. The leaves are colored green.

For a system that hides electrical wiring, distribution boards and other fire hazardous communications, experienced builders It is recommended to use fire-resistant drywall. Its resistance to open flame is ensured by treatment with fire retardants and fiberglass reinforcement of the core. Gypsum is a non-flammable material, but upon contact with the heat of fire, the cardboard covering becomes charred, the base is exposed to high temperature crumbles. GKLO can withstand an open flame for at least 25 minutes and turns pink.

The modern construction market offers universal GKLVO, which has the properties of both fire resistance and moisture resistance. This is an expensive type, but more reliable, durable, and meets all safety requirements. Shields are available in dark or rich red.

If it is not possible to purchase special type, the panels are treated with appropriate means - water-repellent or fire-resistant.

Preparatory work

Having decided to install a plasterboard box with your own hands, you should prepare the tools, calculate the amount of material and fasteners and purchase everything you need.

You will need:

Construction level (magnetic, oil or water), tape measure, thread and pencil, square.
Drill and screwdriver.
Painter sharp knife, jigsaw, hand saw, metal scissors.
Grater and spatulas (wide and narrow).

To dilute the putty, you will need a small container.

Materials purchased:

GKL (selected type);
profiles: guides, ceiling, rack;
dowels, anchor wedges, self-tapping screws, screws;
When assembling the frame, you will need locks, connecting and extending elements, and hangers.

It is recommended to purchase them 10-15% more, since errors in calculations, damage during installation, etc. are possible. Before making a box from plasterboard, it is necessary to make markings. When drawing dimensions, you should remember the thickness of the material. When installing a system in a toilet or bathroom around pipes and valves, you must make sure that the profiles do not come into contact with the pipeline. The structure above the cabinets in the kitchen, which hides the air duct from the stove, should not be adjacent to it.

Initially, a drawing is drawn on the floor, then on the ceiling or above the communications (if it hides the sewer pipes running from the toilet above the floor). Vertical markings of walls are carried out using a plumb line or level. All marked points (horizontally and vertically) are connected by precise straight lines along stretched threads or short on a square.

When mounting on the ceiling, a line is marked on the wall for the guide profile, then markings are made for the hangers. For complex boxes with bent elements, a sketch is made on the floor.

Assembling the frame with your own hands step by step

In bathrooms and bathrooms, sometimes the sheathing is assembled from wooden blocks, since the wood absorbs the noise of water flowing through the pipes. In this case, all parts should be treated with water-repellent impregnations. It is recommended to use more durable and durable metal profiles, as they are easier to install.

When assembling the frame, the installation of windows for access to valves and meters is taken into account. Hinges or canopies are secured to the sheathing. Places for passing pipes where this is necessary are also provided (for example, in a toilet, water supply to the toilet cistern).

Sequence of assembly work:

Drill holes according to the markings.
Insert plastic dowels.
Secure the profile with self-tapping screws or anchor bolts.

When mounting on the ceiling, the guide element is attached first, then the suspensions are installed. Ceiling slats are fastened to guides and fixed in hangers. Vertical design It is assembled in a similar way, but instead of a ceiling profile, a rack profile is installed. Laying insulating materials helps reduce the noise from water flowing through the pipes in the toilet.

Frame covering

The sheets are cut out in accordance with the drawings. If horizontal pipes are sewn up with a box of three walls, then a narrow slot is cut in the lower part. This is necessary for timely detection and repair of leaks. When sheathing vertical pipes, first the end solid parts are cut out and attached flush. After this, the front elements are cut out and placed on the sidewalls. Prepare in advance bent products, if they are provided for by the design.

Everything is fixed with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver or screwdriver. The seams and heads of the fasteners are puttied, rubbed down after drying, the corners are glued with serpyanka (mesh masking tape). Can be finished with any decorative materials on the same day. A box in a plasterboard toilet is traditionally laid with ceramic tiles at the same time as the finishing of the entire room.

When installed in a home with reinforced concrete walls you will need a hammer drill.
For systems in bathrooms, a profile made of galvanized steel is required (resistant to corrosion, does not require additional processing).
The box in the bathroom or toilet, which hides meters and valves, is equipped with a Euro hatch, providing access for taking readings, audits and other manipulations. The “window window” can be made from plastic, plasterboard or wood yourself, or purchased ready product in the construction market.
In rooms with high humidity (kitchens, bathrooms, basements) it is secured with black hardened screws.
Because decorative finishing in the toilet and bathroom is usually made from ceramic tiles, the distance between fastening the sheets to the frame should not exceed 15 cm.
For box widths greater than 25 cm, it is recommended additional profile(ceiling or rack depending on the design).
When fixing gypsum boards, do not screw self-tapping screws into the ends of perpendicular elements.
It is more convenient to use as a noise-absorbing material mineral wool(usually glass wool is used).