How to properly install a chain-link fence. Installation of a chain-link fence using the example of tension and sectional structures

Simple and inexpensive way to mark the boundaries of the territory - install a chain-link fence. Of course, today there are many alternative materials, having a more presentable appearance, for example, . But they are more expensive and labor-intensive to install, and are more suitable for permanent external fencing of a country house.

And if you need to fence off a building site, summer cottage, separate the economic zone from the residential one, or make an enclosure for animals?

Is it wise to spend a lot of money and a lot of time, attracting specialists, if you can make a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands in one day, and the result will be achieved? The manufacturing technology, calculation and installation are described below in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Advantages of a chain-link fence

saving financial resources. The price of a chain-link fence is almost the lowest of all possible options fence Only a fence made of branches can compete in price, but otherwise it will lose;

light weight. There is no need for a massive frame or pouring a foundation;

strength and resistance to environmental factors: moisture, temperature changes, ultraviolet radiation, fire, mechanical damage;

light transmittance. A chain-link fence does not create obstacles to the penetration of sunlight, which means that there will be no shaded areas on the site and the plants will feel comfortable in any part of it;

low maintenance and no need for repairs;

ability to withstand significant load. For example, wooden fence it’s easier to break through than to tear a metal network;

availability. You can buy chain-link mesh at any hardware store or market;

a large assortment allows you to choose the one that suits you would be better suited for specific needs;

high installation speed. Two people can install a chain-link fence in one day.

Of course, a mesh fence is not without its drawbacks, including: unattractive appearance, “transparency” of the fence and the need for painting. Some of the shortcomings can be easily eliminated if you know how to choose a chain-link mesh correctly.

Types of chain-link mesh for fences - which is better

When choosing which chain-link mesh to use for fencing, you need to take into account its main parameters:

1. Material of manufacture:

low carbon steel (the mesh is more ductile);
stainless steel (hard mesh).

2. External coating:

non-galvanized chain-link. Wire thickness - 1.2-5 mm, cell size 50-100 mm. This mesh is prone to rust and needs painting;

galvanized chain-link. Wire thickness - 1.6-5 mm, cell size 50-100 mm. Does not require protection, has a long service life;

plasticized (metal with polymer coating). Wire thickness - 2.5-2.8 mm, mesh size 25-50 mm. More presentable, with high-quality coating has a long service life.

Advice. Ask the seller for a certificate confirming the quality of the coating. Simple PVC coating without additives that guarantee its resistance to ultraviolet radiation and frost, it will soon become unusable.

3. Chain-link mesh dimensions

The smaller the cells, the smaller the living creatures will fit through the mesh. This is relevant when building a fence, for example, for chickens or ducklings. But such a mesh will be heavier and it will take more metal, which means it will be more expensive. For the fence the best option is a grid with a cell of 50x50.

After the grid is selected, it’s time to move on to the main work, namely, creating a sketch of the fence, calculating materials and installing the fence (tension and sectional).

How to make a chain-link fence with your own hands

Stage 1. Drawing of a chain-link fence

A drawing or sketch is a working graphic document that contains the following data:

location of installation of the fence, taking into account access roads, trees, houses, other buildings on the site, etc.;

relief features. If the site has a slope or elevation changes, the diagram will help you decide what is more appropriate: leveling the soil or making a cascading fence;

fence length. Since the width is determined by the width of the mesh, there is no need to take the length into account;

installation location support pillars and supports.

Types of chain-link fences by frame type

When designing a fence, a decision is also made regarding what chain link fence frame will be used. Due to the fact that there are three ways to attach the mesh, there are three types of frame.

tension fence- easy to install. Price tension fence from the mesh, the chain-link is minimal. In order to build it, you need to install supports and stretch the mesh. The design flaw is that the mesh will begin to sag over time;

tension fence with broach. A broach in the form of a strong wire serves as a support that supports the mesh, preventing it from sagging;

sectional fence . Requires more expenses for the purchase of a corner for the frame and longer time for the manufacture of sections. Although you can buy ready-made sections on the market. Naturally, the price of a sectional fence made from chain-link mesh is the highest, but the design is more reliable and practical.

Note. If the terrain on the site is uneven, it is better to give preference to a fence made of sections; this will allow you to install a chain-link fence, taking into account height differences, without leveling the ground plane.

The correct drawing of a chain-link fence contains a description of the fence with key dimensions and main components, incl. arrangement of corners.

Stage 2. Material for building a fence: selection and calculation

Installing a chain-link fence will only take one or two days if you prepare all the materials and tools necessary for the work in advance.

Construction Materials:

Rabitz. The requirements for it are described above.
Tension wire (when installing a tension fence). The function is to support the mesh, provide additional attachment points and eliminate the possibility of sagging. Galvanized wire with a thickness of 2 mm or more is suitable for the fence. (from 130 rub/m.p.).
As a more durable alternative to wire, reinforcement is used, which is welded between the posts or a thin pipe. These materials prevent theft of the mesh.
Support posts for a chain-link fence.
Profile corners (for making a sectional fence). Using corners, a frame of individual sections is formed, which are installed on support pillars. The average price of a corner 40x40x3 is 97 rubles/m.p.
Thin wire or other fasteners for attaching the mesh.
Cement and sand (for concreting support pillars).
Protective compounds for wood or metal processing.

The tools you will need are: tape measure, rope for marking the area, shovel or drill.

What kind of posts can be used for a chain-link fence?

Metal poles

A hollow profile of round or square cross-section is used. The versatility of the metal pole is beyond doubt. The iron support does not require any treatment during installation (only priming and painting); any type of fasteners can be welded to the metal.
Chain-link fences are suitable for a fence made of mesh round post with a diameter of 60 mm. (average price for a metal thickness of 2 mm - 159 rubles/m.p.) or rectangular, with a section of 40x60 (price for a wall thickness of 2 mm - 163 rubles/m.p.).

Wooden pillars

Despite the fact that this is the simplest solution, wooden supports have the disadvantage of being susceptible to weather influences and the activity of microorganisms. In addition, dense wood (oak, elm) is not cheap. You can use more popular species - pine, birch. With proper treatment and constant care, they will last 20-25 years. However, in practice wooden poles for chain link fences, chain link fences are used for temporary structures. A post with a size of 100x100 mm (70 rubles/m.p.) is suitable for a fence.

Brick pillars

Strong and massive supports are too expensive a solution for a mesh fence, and therefore are not used in practice. In addition, a foundation must be poured under them.

Material prepared for the website www.site

Concrete pillars

Relatively inexpensive material. You can make it yourself or buy ready-made ones ( approximate price for one support 80x80x2000 - 350 rub./piece). This is relevant if the store is in close proximity to the installation site, otherwise transport costs will significantly increase the cost of a chain-link fence. At the same time, attaching the mesh to a concrete pillar has its own specifics.

Asbestos cement pipes

They are characterized by relative cheapness (pipe price 100x3000 - 300 rubles), strength and resistance to rotting. But stretching the mesh is inconvenient and requires the use of clamps or clamps. In addition, the pipes are hollow; they simply need to be closed with plugs, otherwise frozen water will simply rupture the pipe from the inside.

Stage 3. Calculation of a chain-link fence

Number of m.p. (linear meters) mesh depends on the size of the area. Usually, chain-link is sold in rolls of 10 m. The price of galvanized chain-link mesh 50x50x2 mm is from 54 rubles/sq.m. The price of non-zinc-coated mesh netting 50x50x2 mm - from 48 rubles/sq.m. Price polymer mesh 50x50x2.2 mm - from 221 rub./sq.m.
The length of the tensioning wire is equal to two fence lengths (or three if the wire is installed in the middle). With a fence height of 1500 mm, 2-3 pieces are sufficient.
The number of pillars depends on the perimeter of the site (total length of the fence) and is calculated based on the fact that the maximum distance between adjacent pillars is 2,500 mm. This rule remains the same for a fence with tension and for a sectional fence.
The length of the profile angle is equal to the perimeter of the frame multiplied by the number of sections.
Wire for fastening or other fasteners depending on the method of fastening.

Stage 4. Installing a chain-link fence with your own hands

Sequence of work.

1. Preparing the soil surface

The fence installation site does not require serious cleaning. It is enough to remove debris and eliminate interfering plants and shrubs. In this case, plants that will grow near the mesh (and not near the support post) can be left if their development does not lead to deformation of the mesh.

2. Pouring the foundation for a chain-link fence

Do you need a foundation for a chain-link fence? There are fences installed on the foundation. The pouring of the concrete base can only be explained by the installation of a mesh using heavy metal sections. Which in most cases is unjustified.

3. Installation of posts for a chain-link fence

Preparatory treatment of fence posts

Processing of wooden poles- the timber should be treated with an antiseptic (a solution that prevents wood from rotting) at the level of its depth in the soil. The SENEZH product line has proven itself well (price from 90 rubles/l).

Processing of metal poles- iron supports must be cleaned of rust and coated with a corrosion inhibitor (preventing the development of rust). The products of the company Conferum, which supplies several types of primers, are in demand.

How deep should I bury chain-link fence posts?

Despite the minimal windage of the mesh, the chain-link is heavy; with a length of 2.5 meters (between supports) and a height of 1.5 m, the fence can tilt or fall. Therefore, support pillars are installed to a depth of up to 1 meter, under certain conditions (fence height, type of soil on the site) minimum depth pits 50-80 cm.

Methods for installing fence posts

Installation on hard ground (clay)

Installation is possible in two ways:

Firstly, by hammering or screwing in the supports to the required depth. This method has a significant drawback, which is that it is difficult to maintain the installation level when driving and it is easy to deform the top of the driven pipe. Therefore, it must be covered with plywood to avoid deformation.

Secondly, by drilling/digging a hole for it and then pouring concrete. In this case, the installation depth of the support is selected taking into account the level of soil freezing. However, some masters argue that this is not necessary.

Installation on loose and heaving soils

The technology is more labor-intensive; here the craftsmen also distinguish two installation options:

First, install the support 20 cm below the soil freezing level. Then the heaving of the soil will not push out the pipe.

Secondly, replace the soil around the support. To do this, you need to make a hole of a larger diameter (twice the diameter of the pipe) and replace the soil in this place with crushed stone, at a height of 40 cm to the surface of the soil, the column is concreted. This method creates drainage, which takes over the heaving of the soil and levels it out. In this case, the pole will definitely not lead.

Advice. Manual drilling, especially when large quantities holes for posts is a very labor-intensive task. It is better to find/rent/buy a motor drill, with which guide holes of 50-60 cm are made, the remaining 40-50 cm of the pipe (column) are hammered with a sledgehammer.

How to install chain-link fence posts

Installing posts for a chain-link fence is no different from installing other types of fencing. Installation procedure:

First, the corner posts are installed. When tensioned, they are subject to the greatest load, so it is advisable to strengthen them with spacers (oblique supports). The purpose of the spacers is to prevent the tilt of the support. As an option, you can put more powerful pillars (thick-walled) in the corners;

pillars are installed where the fence breaks (at the corners of the fence, at corners);

between already installed pillars a rope is pulled, along which, first of all, the supports for the gates and wickets are mounted;

settling in entry group( , ). Please note that the entrance group of a chain-link fence is always made in the form of a section, reinforced with additional jumpers;

after this, row pillars are installed. It is advisable to make the distance between them the same. This rule is mandatory when installing a sectional fence.

Note. Hollow metal pipes are sealed with plugs to prevent water from getting inside and causing rust.

4. Guide wire for tensioning the chain-link mesh

The purpose of the wire (cable) is to ensure a strong tension of the mesh between the posts. The necessary tension is provided by the following methods of fastening the chain-link:

tensioner;
lanyard;
hook with long thread;
staples, clamps, spans and clamps only keep the wire from sagging on intermediate posts. They are not used as tensioners.

The order of tensioning the chain-link: one end of the mesh is tied to a corner support post, and the other is stretched. If the length of the fence is too long, intermediate fasteners are installed. Their function is to support the wire.

Note. Some users advise running a guide wire through the mesh cells. But this option is only suitable for installing a small fence, because stretching the wire along the entire length and then installing the mesh on the supports is a difficult and pointless task.

5. Attaching the chain-link mesh to the posts

install on the stretched tension wire;
secure to the fittings;
install into a section and secure in separate sections.

How to stretch the mesh between support posts when building a tension fence

A roll of chain-link mesh is installed vertically near the corner post (attached to metal poles). In this case, the curved edges of the mesh should be oriented upward. This reduces the risk of injury from the sharp ends of the wire.

Advice. If a non-galvanized chain-link mesh is installed, then the craftsmen recommend raising it above the ground level by 100-150 mm.

The mesh is fixed in several places on the support. Then, gradually unwinding, the mesh is tensioned and at the same time attached to the upper horizontal jumper (wire or reinforcement).

When the first roll is finished, the mesh is pulled over the lower jumper. It is important to untangle all the tangled spirals of the mesh.

After this, the second roll is screwed to the first roll (to each other), and the second roll is unwound with tension.

Note. If the work is carried out with an assistant, then the connection (bundle of rolls) can be done in a canopy. If you do it yourself, then you need to connect the pieces when the mesh is not fully stretched, and its edge can be stretched along the length on the ground. Sometimes binding is done by using a wooden bridge to which the edges of both rolls are attached.

After installing the chain-link mesh along the entire length of the fence, the mesh is fixed to the middle lintel.

When stretching the wire, special attention should be paid to the corners. Here you need to be extremely careful to avoid distortion of the mesh fabric.

How to stretch the mesh between support posts when building a sectional fence

First, let's look at how to make sections for a chain-link fence

from metal corner need to make a frame. Frame parameters: length equal to the length of the support pipe minus 100-150 mm; the width is equal to the distance between adjacent supports;

the corner is opened into blanks using a grinder;

the blanks are welded into a frame;

Next we work with the grid. Unwinds from a roll of chain-link right size and is separated by twisting the wire;

A reinforcing rod is inserted into all four sides of the mesh. The rod allows you to pull the mesh to the edge of the corner;

the rod is welded to the edges of the frame inside the corner. Thus, the chain-link is attached to the corner.

There is another option that involves welding inside corner metal pins(hooks) 3 mm thick. Then the pins are bent inward with pliers, and the mesh is pulled over them. After the entire mesh is stretched, you need to weld the edges of the hooks to form a loop. This eliminates the possibility of the mesh slipping.

After the frame is ready, we proceed to its installation. To attach a separate section to a profile pipe, you need to weld a metal plate onto the support and weld the section to it.

It should be noted that it is very difficult for a beginner without experience to make sections for a fence from a chain-link mesh. Difficulties arise from the fact that:

it is problematic to make sections of the same size;

it is difficult to install a piece of mesh stretched, without sagging;

the need to perform welding work;

difficulty in installing fence sections.

Decorative decoration of a chain-link fence

A chain link fence is no different. bright design and attractiveness, but if desired, it will result in a nice and durable fence for the site.

Ideas for decorating a mesh fence

openwork weaving. It is made with thin wire on a mesh with large cells. A simple pattern can be made with your own hands;

decorative landscaping. Planting weaving or climbing plants along a chain-link fence will create a hedge around the area. Alternatively, you can attach hanging pots with flowers, as in the photo on the right;

in order not to wait for the greenery to grow and braid the fence, the mesh can be decorated with decorative wire flowers;

creative design. With a little imagination, you can create original and funny decorations for a chain-link fence.

Do-it-yourself chain-link fence - video

Cost of a chain link fence

The total costs of constructing a chain-link fence are determined taking into account the materials used and their quantity. For example, the cost of materials was indicated as they were discussed. The cost per meter is easy to calculate, knowing the consumption of each material and the length of the fence.

The price of a chain-link fence for work and installation is per 1 m.p. is given in the table

Thus, a chain-link fence is a cost-effective and quickly erected type of fencing that you can make with your own hands.

A strong and reliable fence of the site does not have to be made of stone and concrete. A chain link fence is a smart alternative to expensive projects. This one is simple, easy and at the same time reliable material allows you to perfectly implement the idea of reliable protection area from uninvited guests.

Fencing with decorative elements

Well, if the cost of fencing and work is really affordable, then why not order such a fence for a turnkey plot? Or you can even take a risk and install the fence yourself. Let's look at both options in detail.

Installing a chain-link fence has several undeniable advantages, which clearly show that the idea of arranging just such a fence deserves attention.

The economic aspects of construction are related to how much the material costs and what the installation price of such a project is:

installing a mesh fence will cost much less than;
the service life of such a structure is at least 2 times longer than a wooden one;
the material for the main fabric, racks and accessories for stretching is quite cheap;
opportunity to save on installation costs - assembling a chain-link fence with your own hands is much easier than others.

From the technical side, this design allows:

install fencing of almost any length;
when working with ready-made kits supplies, for example, from those sold in Leroy, build them without welding and the use of additional tools;
the material allows you to install both relatively lightweight options and those with a rigid frame - a fence in sections made of a metal corner or profile;
the material is excellent for the perimeters of areas of any shape;
installation does not require a large amount of work related to the construction of the foundation. The weight of the canvas allows it to be installed on poles made of profile pipe 50x50 mm without supports;
the material is not afraid of temperature changes, sunlight, and can withstand great mechanical stress;
PVC coated canvas does not require painting or additional care;
construction material is easy to calculate and transport. It is sold in rolls of 10 meters, the connection is made by weaving two sections into one common fabric;
wide choice of sizes. The height of the material can be standard: 1.5; 1.8; 2.0; 2.5; 3.0 meters.

The photo shows an easy to install fence.

Such a fence does not shade the neighbors’ property

Issues related to the placement of the fence include:

the possibility of its placement both for a city site and for a summer residence. High light transmission allows you to build a fence between neighbors. At the same time, there will be no shaded area on neighboring plots, which corresponds to. But don't forget about.
construction on screw piles will not harm root system trees and shrubs. Therefore, it can also be placed in places where a garden is already growing, although this has its own limitations.

Beautiful fencing decor

With guides

Installation of a chain-link fence using guides involves the construction of a rigid frame in the form of horizontal guides. The following are used as guides:

profile pipe with a profile from 20x20 to 40x20 mm;
metal rod;
fittings;
wooden bars.

Without guides

One of the methods for stretching mesh over a fence is to build fences without guides. Used as a tensioner steel rope or wire threaded through rigidly fixed supports. The extreme corner supports are well strengthened with stops. The wire or cable is pulled through the cells at the top and bottom of the fabric at a distance of 5-10 cm from the edge.

Tensioning is done using bolts with holes in the head or turnbuckles.

Sectional option

Sectional fence

A sectional mesh fence installed on supports using a fence is distinguished by the fact that it is difficult to dismantle. It is much easier and simpler to install sections using bolts.

Installation of pillars

The production of a fence is associated, first of all, with the correct marking of the site and the installation of support posts. from the grid are selected depending on the construction budget. For this we use:

metal profile pipe;
water pipe;
metallic profile;
corner;
brick pillars;
asbestos-cement pipes;
wooden pillars.

Most cheap option- These are wooden pillars. Asbestos-cement pipes and concrete pillars. Photos of fences using supports from different material.

Preparatory stage

The construction of the fence begins with marking the perimeter of the site and dividing it into straight segments. The segment where they will be installed is marked separately. entrance gate and a gate. It is better to provide powerful supports from a thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm or a profile pipe 100x100 mm.

Calculate the dimensions of the spans under the sections with high accuracy; the distance between fence posts without guides can be from 1.5 to 2.5 meters.

Installation of poles

A pit is dug under each pillar. Under the main pillars - corner, turning and on which the gates are attached, the foundation pit is torn off taking into account. Intermediate pillars can have a pit diameter of 200-230 mm, the same as the diameter of the auger garden borer.
The depth of the pit depends on the height of the building: for a height of up to 2.5 meters, a meter is enough; for a larger height of supports, a depth of 1.5 meters is accepted.

Structural installation diagram

Construction begins with the installation of the main pillars. After the concrete of these supports has hardened, intermediate pillars are installed. For corner supports made of square pipe 50x50 mm reinforcement is provided in the form of an inclined thrust beam.

Step-by-step mesh installation

You can install a fence from a regular chain-link mesh with your own hands without guides without special equipment, especially if you use ready-made elements for installation and tension. For quick installation, it is recommended to purchase all fasteners in advance.

By guides

Chain-link fences along guides are installed in two stages:

Guides are installed.
A polymer mesh is being installed.

First, we install guides on the posts. Preliminary fixation is carried out with mounting wire, then the guides are welded by electric welding.

Then, using plastic clamps, the canvas is gradually lifted and fixed on the fence. The final tension and fixation with wire or a metal strip is done afterwards and secured by electric welding. Plastic mesh It is fixed on the guides only with wire or special clamps.

How to protect your country cottage area? Fence from steel mesh- This is an economical option that is considered effective and fairly easy to install. It does not cast shadows, is well ventilated, and forms a transparent wall that does not interfere with plant growth. But the most attractive thing is that the simple technology of work allows you to install a chain-link fence with your own hands.

What to give preference to: features of the Rabitz mesh?

However, there are options here too: just stretch the cellular fabric between the pillars or secure it to a structure made from a corner? The first method is simpler, although it does not look as impressive from an aesthetic point of view. Alternatively, such a fence can be installed at the boundary with the neighboring plot.

What to use for the installation of supports?

The cost of the fence and its durability are affected by the material from which the posts are made. It can be a light, inexpensive tree. If these are beams, then they need to be cleared of bark, cut to equal lengths (3m), and be sure to be opened with a waterproofing solution. You can use poles left over from construction at your dacha as supports. The upper part of the supports, located above the ground, is exposed to precipitation, so it will have to be sanded and then painted oil paint. Wood is a material that is easy to process, but still short-lived.

Important! On unstable soils, in swampy areas, the entire underground part of the pillars must be concreted. Cement mortar It is prepared in the following proportion: take two parts cement and two parts crushed stone for one part sand. When adding each component, the dry mixture is thoroughly mixed. So much water is poured in so that after thorough mixing the solution is not very liquid. With the tip of a shovel it is compacted, leveled, and shaken. When concreting hole foundations for pillars, the main work is resumed only after 7 days, when the concrete has “ripened”.

Asbestos-cement or concrete structures. They are strong, stable, durable. Fastening of the rolled cellular material to the supports is carried out with a cable or wire through equipped clamps. A variant of weaving is that the pole is surrounded by a cable threaded into the cells. There is only one bad thing: if the mesh is grabbed vandalously, all you have to do is “bite” the cable, and it will easily come off.

Metal support pillars are more reliable in this regard. In addition, they will last for decades. Pipes of 60 - 120 mm in diameter with a metal thickness of at least 2 mm are used. Mesh holders - metal hooks - are first welded onto them in the upper part. Then the entire structure is painted with waterproof paint.

Evaluate the roll carefully

When choosing a chain-link mesh, you need to pay attention to general form roll. It should not be wrinkled or deformed. Wire braided material – smooth, intact. It is very important that the edge part does not look crooked: all the outer corners of the cells should be the same height, stretched “in line”. This envy makes for an aesthetically pleasing appearance and no sagging.

The mesh used for fences is steel, galvanized. Sold in rolls 10-20 m long. The size of the cells, their thickness, and the width of the mesh also vary. Most in demand roll material with a width of one and a half meters. If you want to make the fence higher, the mesh fabric is lifted by the upper edge, and the gap formed at the bottom is filled with available materials.

A do-it-yourself chain-link fence in decoration can be given an exclusivity and special flavor by a colored polyester coating that is resistant to damage and fading, as well as the shape and size of the cells. Typically, these are rhombic or square honeycombs measuring 30x30, 45x45, 50x50mm. Although canvases can be made to order with a different geometry.

Trying is not torture: installing a mesh fence with your own hands

The simplest installation of a chain-link fence with your own hands without welding comes down to the following.

Installation begins with driving in corner posts along the border of the site, because they will bear the greatest uneven load. Since the entire fence structure is quite light, a foundation is not needed for it. The pillars are planted in the ground to a depth of about 1 m. If this metal pipe or profile, then the lower part, which will be in the ground, is treated with an anti-corrosion compound.
The drill removes half the volume of soil. The pillars are driven in to the final depth with a sledgehammer. Before starting installation, the vertical is checked with a water level. If you deviate from it, the fence may “lead.” The resulting void between the pillar and the walls of the pit is filled with crushed stone, after which it is carefully compacted. This is done to make the structure stronger.
To ensure that the mesh does not move away from the vertical plane, a cord is stretched between the corner supports. This will be a line, a kind of landmark on which you need to drill the remaining holes. The total length of the fence is measured with a tape measure. The resulting value is divided by equal plots. Holes for supports are dug or drilled every 2.5 m. The selected stride length must be respected because... at a greater distance, the windage of the mesh becomes unacceptable: under the force of the wind, the mesh material will stretch, and over time it will simply sag.
By the way, in some cases, in addition to concreting, to securely fix the supports in the drilled holes, they are covered on all sides with rubble stone or savage. This layer is carefully compacted, after which a small layer of soil is laid on top. The resulting “cushion” must be compacted well again. Finally, on top, stacked finishing layer from rubble stone.
A design feature of the pillars are hooks at the top. Welded to the profile, they bend well. Before installing the mesh, they need to be straightened. The roll sheet itself must be hung correctly. To do this, the upper edge of the roll is determined: the wire on it is longer. In addition, the outermost spiral is marked. “Pliers” are used to bite off the central and outer ties. A roll of chain-link mesh (galvanized, steel, etc.) is rolled out from the extreme edge towards itself. When unfolded, you should end up with a continuous sheet.
Holding the edge and holding the material, gradually stretch it. In this form, the mesh will not get tangled and the edges will not cling to the cells. It is better if it is galvanized. In case of metal fencing its surface will become covered with rust a couple of days after installation due to humidity. Galvanization has a long service life. In any case, it will last for a quarter of a century on the fence.

The mesh is suspended from the cells of the top row on pre-bent hooks. At the same time, at the junctions of two panels, it is left unstretched. The edges of the two rolls are intertwined with each other using zigzag wire. It is considered to be the outermost one in the rolled web, so it is unscrewed from it. Then, using the weaving method, placing both pieces at their ends, intertwine them with this piece. The result is a seamless continuous fence.
Now the completely solid fence is stretched tightly so that it does not sag over time. The hooks are bent with a hammer, fixing the specified tension of the mesh. Don't forget about the top of the canvas. Unshaped tendrils of the wire from which the cells are made stick out on it. The ends sticking out in different directions are twisted together and folded downwards to avoid injury during work.
A chain-link fence with a cable can be considered as an option in which a thin (6mm) cable or wire is passed into the even top row of cells. The tension fasteners are fixed in the corner posts. It is tensioned using bolts and does not allow the structural material to sag. To do this, holes are pre-drilled on the posts closer to the outer edge, as well as in the middle. They should be located at a height equal to the location of the penultimate row of cells, and be in diameter slightly larger than the cross-section of the wire (cable) or rod used for tension. In the supports for the installed mesh sections, such holes for the wire are not needed.
The protruding “whiskers” curl around the wire. It is also needed to eliminate the hanging of the top of the mesh and its sagging. To do this, it is necessary to apply a certain tension force. To create it, they use a special device for fencing from a chain-link mesh with a cable. A thick rod is pulled through the cells of the outermost row. Part of the mesh is wound onto it in a roll until it stops. All wound material is fixed with wire. A cable is attached to the rod. I use the long bar as a lever and tighten the mesh until it is fully tensioned. This position is secured to the supports with bolts or other hardware.

Important! A fence made of galvanized stainless steel material does not require further finishing. It can be used immediately after installation. If the wire in the mesh is metal, it requires subsequent painting. The work is done only with a brush: a lot of paint from the spray bottle is wasted uneconomically in the space, and when working with a roller, it is impossible to completely paint over the weave areas.

When building a chain-link fence with your own hands, you do not need to install the structural material with an overlap onto the ground, leaving an air space between it and the ground. This, on the one hand, will remove additional load on the mesh; on the other hand, excluding contact with the ground, metal sheet it will not be subject to corrosive destruction.
The hooks on the poles are nailed to a flattened appearance with a hammer. Rolled wire passing through the upper and lower rows of cells is fixed to the posts by welding. On the corner supports, where it is necessary to contour the canvas, the tension is loose, no matter how carefully we try to do this. Therefore, in this place a joining seam is made from two pieces of mesh.
A fence made of chain-link mesh with your own hands without welding looks less preferable than a fence made of welded sections-frames with an area of 1.5x2.5 m from a steel corner. The mesh design is welded to them by electric welding. Such a do-it-yourself chain-link fence will provide decor for any exterior. Planted next to him climbing plants, flowers, located on the fence and clinging to it with shoots, will create a natural colored, fragrant, living carpet.

The mesh structure is not only a beautiful, simple even in its own design, an original “living” fence. A chain-link fence is an example of how, with ingenuity and effort, you can economical option build an original fence that is in no way inferior in its purpose to more fundamental and expensive structures.

The patented invention of Karl Rabitz has been a reliable material option for fences for centuries. In the fencing of the chicken coop and transformer hut, sports ground and land plot– such a grid can be found everywhere. There is no alternative to it in demarcating neighboring areas - according to the regulations, it is prohibited to install boundary fences made of opaque materials. The task of making a chain-link fence with your own hands will not seem difficult to any man with a minimum of tools.

Which chain-link mesh to choose for a fence

The chain-link mesh is a continuous fabric of wire spirals woven together. This design makes it easy to splice the fragments together. In this case, the cell size can be in the range of 20-100 mm (the most common sizes are 30-50 mm), the standard roll height is 1, 1.5 and 2 m.

When making mesh, wire of different diameters from 1.2 to 5 mm is used; Most of the chain-links on sale are made of wire 1.5-2 mm in diameter. The wire can be coated or uncoated:

Without coating (“black”). It is better not to use mesh made from it for permanent fencing, its service life is short, and it is almost impossible to paint such a product with high quality, despite all the assurances of the “advisers.”
Zinc coated is the most common option. Galvanized chain-link will fade after some time, but will not rust, having served for decades.
From of stainless steel. A chic and timeless option, but very expensive.
In a polymer shell. This mesh appeared on sale not so long ago and is in great demand. Firstly, she has long term operation (subject to choosing a reliable manufacturer with high-quality plastic coating), secondly, you can realize your fantasies due to a wide palette of colors.

Galvanized wire mesh

Mesh with colored polymer coating

With your own hands you can not only build a chain-link fence, but also weave the mesh itself. There are many drawings manual machine for weaving it. Manufacturing the machine will require some milling, welding and light turning work. One person is able to produce up to 10 m of mesh per day, therefore, if you have wire, it makes sense to think about independent production.

Installation of supports for fencing construction

There are several options for making a chain-link fence. In any case, the most responsible and labor-intensive process– marking the territory and installing support pillars.

How to prepare the site and choose supports

Before installing a mesh fence, you should accurately, in accordance with the existing documents for the site, measure the boundaries of the future fence, think about the location of the gates and gates. Clear the area for the construction of the fence from debris and vegetation, and then drive stakes (wooden or metal stakes) into the places of future corner posts and supports for gates and gates.

To determine the location of the intermediate posts, you need to stretch a strong cord between the stakes, then measure the distance between them. Optimally, the racks are placed 2-2.5 m apart from each other, so the resulting distance must be divided by 2.5 and rounded up.

The distance between the pillars should be from 2 to 2.5 m

In this way the number of corner posts is found; the exact distance between them can be found by dividing the distance mentioned above by the number of pillars. The locations of future supports should also be marked with pegs.

Depending on the type of underlying soil, material, thickness of the pillars and the type of future fence, there are several methods for installing supports. Wooden posts are short-lived, concrete or asbestos-cement pipes cause difficulties when attaching the mesh.

The optimal solution for making a chain-link fence with your own hands would be metal racks from a round or profile square pipe from 60 mm in diameter. Next we will consider this option.

Support Pole Installation Methods

You can install metal racks:

simply driving them into the ground;
forget - place in a pre-prepared hole and fill it with stones or large crushed stone, constantly compacting it;
partially (when the end of the post is driven into the ground) or completely concreted in pre-prepared pits.

There are many methods for calculating the length and depth of the underground part of the pillars - determining the type of soil, the level of groundwater and the depth of soil freezing. But for a light chain-link fence, possible movements of the supports of a few centimeters in height are insignificant, so in practice they use a simple rule - at least 40% of the post must be in the ground. That is, a post for a fence 1.5 m high should be about 2.1 m long for any installation method, but full concreting is optimal.

In practice the process looks like this:

Install corner (or end, if there are gates and gates) posts, strictly controlling their verticality using a level.
Prepare holes for intermediate posts according to the preliminary markings. The presence of a drill in normal (without roots and large stones) soil makes the work much easier!
After the concrete has hardened, pull a cord along the top of the posts to control the height of the intermediate supports being installed, and another one at the bottom to control the placement of all posts on the same line.
To make it easier to level the pillars in height, fill the bottom of the holes with sand, gravel or small crushed stone and simply change the height of this cushion by adding or removing material.
Fill the height-adjusted racks with concrete with level control, and install stops and supports if necessary.

Further installation should be carried out only after the concrete has hardened (at least one week); the posts must be primed and painted.

Instructions for building different types of chain link fences

Before you start building a chain-link fence with your own hands, you should determine the purpose of the fence, the basic requirements for aesthetics and strength. Indeed, in one case you need a powerful fence made of non-standard mesh with 4-5 mm wire for grazing livestock, in another you need a beautiful and elegant fence in front of the house or lightweight design no frills on the borders of neighboring plots. For each task there is its own option.

The simplest fence for a site

The easiest way to install a mesh fence is to simply attach it to the installed supports. For this work you will need an assistant, or better yet two.

Before fastening, roll out the chain-link on the ground to a distance of slightly more than one span between the posts.
Check the height level of the wire spirals and, if necessary, screw in or unscrew displaced ones. The fact is that it is not visible on the roll whether they are all at the same level, and after stretching the mesh it will be impossible to align the links.
Immediately bend the edges of the spirals with pliers to avoid injury and the possibility of the mesh unraveling during installation.
As you fasten the mesh, unwind it further.

There are several ways to attach the chain-link to the posts, but it is highly advisable to attach not the mesh itself (to avoid its deformation), but a metal rod with a diameter of 6-10 mm inserted vertically into its link. Using another similar pin, inserted a little further, the assistant should pull the fabric.

This does not require any blocks, levers or complex structures for tensioning, moreover, excessive efforts by one person can lead to deformation and stretching of the 2 mm wire mesh!

The rod can be attached to the support like this:

just tie it to a post with soft wire. Most quick way, but not too beautiful;
use special clamps rather than wire;

Fastening with clamps

put the pin on the pre-prepared hooks and bend them. Hooks made from pieces of wire with a diameter of 4-6 mm and a length of 50-80 mm should be welded to the stand at a distance of 400-500 mm from each other until the mesh is tensioned;

Fastening with hooks

weld the rod (not the fabric!) to the post in several places, obtaining a permanent connection;
stitch the mesh spiral with a rod, inserting it into pre-welded sections of pipe with a diameter of 1/4″ and a length of 15-20 mm. They should be placed on the support at the same distance as the hooks; the short length of the segments will allow them to fit into the grid cells. The most aesthetic way of dismountable connection.

End and corner posts will experience constant loads from the impact stretched mesh, so braces (stops) are required.

Corner post installation method

Fence option with guy wires

To ensure greater rigidity of the fence, better resistance to wind loads and to prevent sagging of the canvas, you can stretch one (from above) or several rows of cable or wire 4-6 mm thick.

Such strings can be attached to supports and tensioned in any convenient way, but the most practical option- by using special ties or tensioners.

String tensioner

When installing a chain-link fence with your own hands using guy ropes, the distance between the posts can be increased to 3 m. But it is worth considering that when tensioning, the load on the outer and corner supports increases many times over, so their rigidity should be increased in comparison with the supports for a simple tension fence.

Ideal option Fixing the fabric is through stitching the mesh along its length. But this process is long and labor-intensive, and the complexity increases with increasing diameter and stiffness of the cable or wire.

Therefore, in practice, the strings are first tensioned, then the chain-link is installed in the same way as described above simple method, and then after 200-300 mm the mesh is tied to the guy wires with galvanized binding wire with a cross-section of 1-1.5 mm.

Reinforced version with lags

To strengthen the supporting frame of the fence, logs should be welded to the installed posts, preferably from a profile pipe. The main load in the fence will be compression, so the section of the log should ensure that the frame does not “fold” when the mesh is tensioned and the fence is subsequently used. With this installation method, there is no need for braces for corner and end posts.

Chain-link mesh on a frame with logs

Since most of the efforts will be applied in the upper part of the fence, the lower and intermediate logs (if any) can be replaced with reinforcement, rolled wire, or strings even stretched, as in the previous method. Screw the mesh fabric to the frame with wire.

A fence with logs will be a good foundation for the future, if there is a need to decorate the fence by hanging additional material. You can also easily replace the chain-link with corrugated sheets or slate, making the fence much more solid.

Practical sectional solution

Sectional fence

A fence made of sections, which are frames from a corner with a mesh fixed inside, is the most difficult to manufacture, but has a lot of advantages and benefits:

such a design is the most beautiful and impeccable from an artistic perspective;
each section is a separate and rigid structural element, so there will be no issues with mesh sagging and loss protective properties;
if necessary, sections can be dismantled and the posts can be used to build new fences;
Possibility of installation with a large slope of the fenced area. It is believed that the chain-link mesh can be stretched when the ground level rises no more than 6° (which corresponds to a slope of 1:10). If these values are greater, the right solution would be a sectional fence with uniform ledges.

Sectional fence with ledges

To manufacture the section, a solid-rolled steel angle with a flange of 40-50 mm is used.

Using a grinder (preferably a mounting saw), cut off parts of the required size strictly perpendicularly.
Lay the frame on a flat surface (or level all the corners using pads), carefully measure the diagonals. To avoid twisting, the frame should be cooked in opposite corners.
In the finished frame, clean the seams, prime and paint it (it is much easier to repair areas burnt from welding than to paint the corner under the mesh!).
It is necessary to install the mesh fabric through rods, which can be welded or installed on hooks and bent (as with racks). At the same time, fasten the first pin on the side of the frame, after tensioning the mesh - on the opposite side, and then on the top and bottom.
Do not apply excessive force when tensioning, otherwise the section may “fold” inward. Fastening on all sides, even with minimal tension, will prevent the canvas from “worrying” and sagging.
The distance between the supports should be calculated so that there is a gap of 40-80 mm between the support and the frame (or make sections based on the already known distance between the posts).
To attach the sections to the posts, weld metal dies (approximately 6*60*250 mm) in advance.
The frames can be attached to the dies using either electric welding or bolts, resulting in a collapsible structure.

Approximate diagram of fastening sections

Video: do-it-yourself chain-link fence

How to decorate a chain-link mesh - original solutions

Many people do not want to make a fence from chain-link mesh, considering it impersonal, too simple, and refuse this option in favor of other materials. Completely in vain! There are many ways to make such a fence original and unique, here are some of them.

Making patterns from wire. A labor-intensive method, but beautiful and long time.

The use of polymer multi-colored tapes and cords. Bright, elegant, but not too durable.

Elegant appliques made from ribbons and cords

Living plants. Always relevant, but beautiful only during the active growing season and flowering. And from autumn to spring, if the dried stems are not removed in a timely manner, it looks very untidy. You can use artificial greenery in the same way.

Light-shading nets. They come in different colors and degrees of light transmission. They significantly increase the windage and weight of the fence, so they are not suitable for a simple tension fence.

Application of light-shading mesh

PVC photo fence or decorative photo grid. New, expensive, beautiful and luxurious material. It is also worth using with a powerful frame or sectional fence solution, hanging over the chain-link.

At this point, the question of how to make a mesh fence with your own hands can be considered closed. Good luck in construction, and may the fence made with the help of the advice received please you for many years!