Hello dear readers! It just so happens, but a modern aquarium is simply unthinkable without a large number of aquatic plants. Of course, you can be carried away by cichlids and other beautiful fish, but a green underwater garden always attracts the eye much more than a rocky underwater landscape.
As the aquarium hobby develops, more and more closed-ecosystem enthusiasts are paying close attention to aquatic plants. More and more often, various scientific expeditions are being organized to the tropical regions of our planet to identify and study new species. aquarium plants. The purpose of these expeditions is also to clarify a number of environmental factors, which prevent the successful cultivation and cultivation of certain types of hydrophytes in wet greenhouses.
Basic criteria for growing aquatic plants
Unlike aquarium fish, aquatic plants in natural conditions are autotrophic organisms, that is, they feed on inorganic compounds and actually do not constitute any competition for various animals. Hydrophytes synthesize the necessary protein through digestion. Thanks to multifactorial nutrition, grass requires the constant presence of essential substances such as light energy and carbon dioxide.
Aquarium hydrophytes, like our body, need micro- and macroelements. The most needed elements for aquarium grass are: Ca, Mg, N, K, P, S and Fe. In a home aquarium, as a rule, there is no shortage of macroelements, so we will not talk about this point. But in order for hydrophytes to grow normally and not suffer from a lack of necessary elements, it is necessary to add bait from microelements and separately iron to the water. IN artificial reservoirs iron and trace elements are quickly excreted, namely, they pass into the insoluble stage of poorly soluble chemical compounds. This leads to the fact that aquatic plants in this form are not able to absorb these beneficial substances from the water for their nutrition.
Similar hydrochemical processes take place in natural reservoirs, but in streams and rivers there are always various mineral springs that regularly add all the necessary nutrients to the water. In a home aquarium, regular replenishment of microelements can be achieved by performing regular water changes. Alternatively, to add iron necessary for plants into the aquarium, you can hang a small fat-free clove, or add liquid complex fertilizers to the water. If you have a frame aquarium, then this is not necessary, since the steel frame provides the grass with plenty of iron. This point can also explain the excellent growth of many aquarium plants.
If you study in detail the dry mass of an aquarium plant, then chemical composition it consists of 10% bicarbonates (in the presence of lighting) and 90% carbon, which is absorbed as a result of the process of assimilation of carbon dioxide dissolved in aquarium water. The higher the lighting intensity in the aquarium, the more carbon dioxide the plant consumes and the more the pH parameter moves towards an alkaline environment.
In a closed ecosystem, that is, an aquarium, where does the source of carbon dioxide come from? Carbon dioxide is released by fish, bacteria, invertebrates and other living creatures. Aquarium plants also emit carbon dioxide when the aqua is not illuminated. But I would like to note that an aquatic plant releases carbon dioxide into the water in any case, regardless of lighting, but the process of consuming it during assimilation is still greater.
Also key point in the life of aquatic plants is the temperature of the water. The higher the temperature, the more the plants feed, and the more light they need. This also includes carbon dioxide and other substances. Every aquarist must take this feature into account, especially if for some reason he increases the water temperature, he will also have to increase the illumination of the aquarium. Otherwise, your plants will quickly begin to deplete.
Also keep in mind that if your aquarium lacks any component for the normal nutrition of aquatic plants, then there is simply nothing to replace it with. What does it mean? It's very simple: if the grass lacks iron or zinc, then increasing the water temperature and increasing the light will not help you in any way. Each plant needs specific nutrients oh and attitude. But if slowdown in growth, flowering and fruiting with a high concentration of nitrates in an aquarium is a normal phenomenon, then in a natural reservoir this is completely absent. Why am I saying this? Be careful when using aquarium fertilizers, because they can not only be beneficial, but also harmful.
One of the most important foundations for the successful cultivation of aquatic plants is the correctly selected light regime. In particular, the length of daylight, the radiation spectrum and the intensity of the light source play a fundamental role in lighting an aquarium. The aquarist must learn to initial period When caring for an aquarium, dose light, this is especially true when you have already planted aquatic plants in the aquarium. Only practical research can provide a wide range of recommendations for proper aquarium lighting.
Well, firstly, the light in the aquarium and its radiation spectrum should be as close as possible to natural. This can be achieved by using fluorescent lamps, which are installed in the lamp along the surface every ten centimeters. In addition, it is necessary to provide for the moment of compensation for the lack of light from the ends of the aquarium lamps. Otherwise, plants planted near the side walls may suffer from lack of lighting and may simply wither.
At first, the lighting in the aquarium should work at half its power, and when it is clear that the grass is strong enough, the lighting intensity can be increased. This entire process takes several months. If you plan to reorient the light sources or change the location of aquarium plants, then know that this can greatly affect their growth, and in rare cases, even their death.
Secondly, place your aquarium as far from a window as possible, since the normal daylength of tropical grass is 11 to 12 hours. Our long daylight hours are moderately wide, especially in summer time years, negatively affect the growth of aquarium plants. Also, do not forget about excessive algae growth due to constant lighting of the jar through the window. As you probably already know, in an aquarium there is a constant struggle between lower () and higher plants for nutrients, and excessive lighting will play into the hands of algae. By the way, remember that there are some types of algae that are capable of consuming crazy amounts of nutrients, which leads to an increase in their mass almost doubling in just one hour. Is Cryptocoryne capable of growing at least 10% in an hour? The answer is obvious!
Third point. All plants get used to a certain light source and its emission spectrum. If you change the radiation spectrum, the plant will have to acquire new biomass and create a different density of chlorophyll, which provides normal conditions assimilation. What does this mean? Often changes in the light spectrum negatively affect the growth of all aquarium plants and they begin to get sick.
Based on the points described above, the aquarist must remember that in no case should you suddenly change the spectrum and mode of lighting. This is exactly the case when a large number of light is not good. If you have installed an aquarium at your place of work, then the jar will have enough lighting during your working day. It’s not even scary if your plants are left without light for the weekend. Of course, amateurs who specialize in propagating and growing plants from the temperate zone may object to us.
The thickness of the aquarium substrate layer should be within 5-7 centimeters, which is suitable for almost all aquarium plants. To feed with nutrients, you can use small balls made from fireclay clay and boiled peat. In order not to spoil the water in the aquarium with these balls, they need to be dried in the oven.
You should not choose plants for your aquarium that come from different regions our planet, it is better to select grass that is similar in terms of habitat and maintenance conditions. It is also not recommended to keep plants from the same family in an aquarium, as this can cause spontaneous crossing. This particularly applies to aponogetons, which have already become so mixed up that it can be difficult to determine who is who.
And finally, I would like to give you a couple of tips on proper cultivation aquatic plants. Everything here is banally simple: the leaves must be free of various fouling, the color and shape of the plant must be natural, and your aquarium will always please your eyes.
Thank you for your attention!
aquarium farm for growing plants without fish
Fans of aquariums with plants often have the need to independently propagate a large number of plants, maintain a large collection of them, or keep long time aquarium no fish(leaving only the algae eaters Caridina multidentata or Otocinclus affinis). Such an aquarium generally requires the same conditions as a species aquarium, with the only difference being that the dose of the nitrogen:phosphorus solution will be slightly higher. Water changes are done as usual - 30-50% once a week. Regular trimming (stimulates growth and frees up space), removing all rotten leaves, if the aquarium is without soil - collecting sludge from the bottom. If hard water(kH>6) microelements should be added daily, if the water is soft it can be three times a week. The main difference is in the substrate. In a farm aquarium, plants are best kept in pots. The substrate used is mineral wool* or a high CEC primer such as Profile/Turface, zeolite or DiaHydro diatomite. This makes maintenance much easier. In this case, it is better to install a false bottom grid and make a bottom filter by attaching to it internal filter with a built-in Hydor EKIP thermostat - only one wire will go into the aquarium.
Caring for such an aquarium is much simpler than a species aquarium: the fish do not produce ammonia, which stimulates the growth of algae, it is easier to remove bottom sediment from the open bottom, plants in pots can be easily moved to any place, and it is easier to cut.
It is advisable to use as a substrate special mineral wool for Hydroponics, for example (sales in Ukraine -). Ordinary mineral wool hydrophobic(repels water) - its fibers are covered mineral oils. These oils are very important in ensuring that cotton wool does not get wet when used as construction insulation. For growing plants, the effect is the opposite - this makes it difficult for the fibers to be wetted with water, that is, with a nutrient solution. To increase the wettability of cotton wool, it is treated in a special way to remove these oils, and special wetting components are added to the alloy.
Can also be used economical option- Grodan Growcube (). These are pieces of mineral wool 1x1x1cm. 2 cubic meter bag ft. allows you to fill 26 1-gallon pots.
Pots are used for seedlings. If you plant in mineral wool, take or lattice pots for hydroponic crops, or ordinary pots for seedlings Ø5-6cm and cut two large holes On the sides. Take a 5x12cm strip of mineral wool and bend it in half, holding the rhizome in the middle, and insert it into the pot. Cuttings of construction mineral wool used as insulation are suitable, for example Rockwool - this is a completely inert material that well supplies plant roots with water with dissolved nutrients and oxygen. The disadvantage is hydrophobicity.
A large number of such pots will create a large surface area for the settlement of a culture of nitrifying bacteria, which will promote good biological balance in the container. You can plant plants in mineral wool and WITHOUT pots: just clamp the plant in the cotton wool, bending it in half, and secure the cotton wool in the bent position with tape for closing garbage bags or wire for tying plants. Can single core aluminum wire.
Plants that take a long time to take root or take root poorly, like Ammania gracilis and other highly buoyant, long-stemmed plants with brittle, fleshy stems, are more convenient to plant in pots with mineral wool - the cotton wool will very easily hold them in the “substrate”. Later, when the plant grows roots, it can be transplanted into pots with soil.
To prevent the pot from floating, place a stone under the mineral wool. Without this, the pot will have neutral buoyancy and move very easily when touched - this is very inconvenient when you need to, for example, touch up a plant or when cleaning algae. A professional option is a shelf (see below).
To propagate small foreground plants - Echinodorus tennelus, Glossostigma elatinoides, Lilaeopsis brasiliensis, make a ring for a large diameter pot - 12-15cm. The mineral wool must be cut so that the fibers are vertical in the pot, otherwise the “arrows” and roots of these plants will not be able to penetrate into it.
Note Pots with mineral wool are a convenient way temporarily plant long-stemmed plants on initial stage creating a species aquarium so that they take away excess nutrients in the water and thus prevent the appearance of algae (an alternative is Riccia fluitans on the surface of the water).
CO2.
As in a fish aquarium, the first step is to ensure sufficient light intensity and CO2 supply. For maximum growth rates, there should be enough CO2 and Light so that two to three hours after turning on the light in the aquarium, the plants are covered with oxygen bubbles (pearling). If this is not the case, and there is enough light and nutrients, you need to increase the supply of CO2 or reduce its weathering. The best method of delivering CO2 is atomization. Since aesthetics do not matter, you can use the very simple, low maintenance, and extremely efficient Ferplast CO2 Energy Mixer or Hydor ARIO/Hydor CO2 Turbo Diffuser reactor. It produces the finest bubbles absolutely reliably and, unlike a ceramic diffuser, does not need to be cleaned with acid. Aesthetics do not play a role in a farm aquarium. For maximum (up to 45 mg/l) saturation of water with CO2 without the threat of sudden changes in pH, use a bell reactor or diffuser + turning off the carbon dioxide supply at night.
Lighting.
For a “farm”, aesthetic lighting parameters are not so important, so you can use cheap lamps with maximum PAR per Watt power. According to Ivo Busko's research this is primarily a T8 lamp with new phosphorus HI-VISION® Phosphor - 32W Philips Advantage 850 5000K CRI85 with PAReff.=1.44, maintaining 97%lm (2935lm) until the end of its service life (!); or T5 grades 850, 950 (5000-5400K) and 860 (6000K).
The lighting intensity can be taken according to T.Amano.
You should not use lamps with a too distorted or unbalanced spectrum (too much red or blue) - special lamps with high PAR. It's expensive, but the plants will be poor condition.
Duration of illumination with fluorescent lamps - 10 hours, MH-HQI lamps - 6-8 hours.
Lighting technique - essential element regulation consumption plant nutrients. Amount of added phosphates and nitrates directly depends on the lighting method of your aquarium - regular bright lighting for 10 hours, or the Step method, when the most intense lighting is turned on only for 3-6 hours in the middle of the day.
Filtration.
Since there are no fish other than algae eaters in the farm aquarium, it is enough to use an internal filter. First of all, it must have a powerful pump to ensure good water circulation - this is a very important factor in delivering nutrients and CO2 to plants. A good choice- Hydor EKIP internal filter. This is a filter, pump, built-in film thermostat and CO2 diffuser in one housing. By supplying CO2 to the inlet for aeration, it can also be used to supply CO2 - the gas will be sprayed into tiny bubbles. For maximum efficiency dissolution gas, put a piece of foam rubber on this tube.
The built-in Hamburger Mattenfilter is very simple and effective.
Ultra-efficient Hydor Koralia pumps can be used to circulate water.
Nitrogen:Phosphorus.
It is impossible to do without adding nitrogen and phosphorus. Nitrogen and phosphorus should be dosed so that the water parameters are maintained as in Nature Aquarium: the phosphate level should be PO4<=0.1мг/л, нитратов NO3 2-2.5 мг/л. Пропорция PO4:NO3 обусловлена minimum the possibility of algae appearing in the aquarium, and is called the Buddy ratio. It should be ~23 (valid range from 15 to 30). If the Buddy ratio is less than 15, then you can get a boom of blue-green algae in the aquarium, and if it is more than 30, you can get filamentous algae.
Plants at pH>6.5 prefer to first consume Nitrogen in ammonium form or ammonia while they are available in a concentration of 0.02 mg/l, only then from nitrates, therefore, in the absence of fish (the main supplier of ammonia), you can accelerate the growth of plants on your “farm” by adding both part of a Nitrogen source of an ammonium/ammonia compound, such as ammonium nitrate. Even better is to make fertilizers with amide nitrogen (NH2). Complex fertilizers with amide nitrogen usually contain amino acids, growth stimulants, humic acids, fulvic acids and vitamins - something that is practically absent in an aquarium without fish. If you don't have monopotassium phosphate KH2PO4, you can make a PO4:NO3 solution based on Masterflower/Gilea.
As for the phosphate:nitrate ratio, you can use the usual recipe with PO4:NO3=1:15 or even 1:10. The dose is selected according to the growth rate of the plants, and increases until threads begin to appear. As soon as it appears, reduce the dose by a quarter. Some sources recommend adding phosphates PO4 = 0.7-1.4 mg/l per week, others up to 3 mg/l.
Let me remind you that plants can adapt and receive most of their nutrition either through the leaves or through the horse system, but in nature they prefer to receive most of their nutrition from the soil, it doesn’t matter.
General organization farms.
· Capacity. Wide (45-60cm), length for a T8 32W Philips Advantage lamp - 120cm.
· Shelves. We immediately reject the idea of filling a thick layer of soil from materials with high CEC and creating water movement under it or introducing fertilizers into the soil using the “drip” method - it is inconvenient and low-tech. It’s easier to put a “shelf” with holes for many mesh pots, as is done in traditional hydroponics (see pictures). Put material with a high CEC in the pots - washed with water, it will constantly receive a supply of nutrients, and the plants will take what they need and how they need it - through the roots or through the leaves, or both. You can just use Grodan mineral wool or Grodan Growcube (). With mineral wool, you can do without pots at all - just bend the piece in half, holding the rhizome, and insert it into the hole in the shelf. For species with predominantly root nutrition, the cheapest and most effective substrate with a high CEC is zeolite.
· Mirrors. To enhance illumination and reduce the number of installed lamps, you can cover the side, back walls and even the bottom(!) of the truss with mirror film (from the outside), or make the container partly from a mirror (expensive!). Can be painted with “mirror” paint or “chrome” paint (to protect the coating on top, paint with any varnish).
Micro according to the TMG prescription based on Micom-iron chelate as the cheapest and most accessible option. In case of problems with high pH, you can additionally add Fe-DTPA ($10 per 1 kg). sells (Fe-DTPA=11.6%). Dealer of Valagro in Russia - Krasnodar. Dealer in the USA and Canada - . In Russia, Fe-DTPA produces 11%. Representative in Ukraine - (Lutsk).
· Macro. The most effective macro fertilizers for hydroponics are fertilizers with, so my choice is homemade fertilizers based on the Masterflower series with amide nitrogen and biostimulants.
Automatic fertilizer dispenser- from the pump.
· Filtration. Hamburger Mattenfilter built along the side wall with a pump of 350-600 l/h, Hydor EKIP, or a regular sponge filter.
· Water circulation. Ultra-efficient Hydor Koralia pumps.
· Lamps. Chinese Resun type installed on the side walls of the aquarium, under T8 Philips Advantege lamps. This is the most cheap option. One light timer, lighting 10 hours a day continuously.
· Lamps. The most efficient by PAR T8 32W Philips Advantage 850 5000K. You can use warm lamps T5 950, T5 850, or daylight lamps T5 860.
· CO2 reactor. I would prefer to install a large-area bell reactor (calculate on CO2 = 40 mg/l), regardless of whether there will be a balloon system or a fermentation method - fewer electrical appliances and electricity consumption. In addition, such a reactor does not require adjustment or control of operation at all; cleaning is simpler and less frequent. You can use Ferplast CO2 Energy Mixer or Hydor ARIO, with a light timer switching off the gas supply at night. Thanks to the shallow depth of the farm (due to the high shelf on which pots with plants stand) and reflective walls, you can put only two T8s per container (not for all types of plants).
If you use CO2 supply using the fermentation method, it is better to place the fermenter from a garden sprayer in the aquarium itself (pour sand into it so that it does not float up).
Water changes- traditional 30-50% once a week, less is possible.
In conclusion, let me remind you of some signs of a lack of basic macroelements.
A sign of Nitrogen [N] deficiency is the premature death of old leaves, yellowing of the edges and tips of the leaf, gradually spreading to the entire leaf blade.
With an accurate signal Nitrogen deficiency(with normal lighting and CO2 supply) is a zero level and the presence of phosphates, with slow plant growth and the appearance of algae! Make sure that the nitrogen never goes to zero!
Phosphorus deficiency is visible by twisting young leaves, brown and reddish-brown spots on old leaves (Zierling)! The plant quickly loses leaves, on which small areas die off. A lack of phosphorus stops plant growth, which leads to an excess of nitrates and, later, phosphates. The result is algae.
"Rockwool as a Substrate for Hydroponic Growing Systems" by Michael F. Dowgert Ph.D., Agro Dynamics
* mineral fiber - porous material made from fibers basalt wool(eg Rockwool) which can hold oxygen. This guarantees optimal absorption of nutrients dissolved in water and ideal root development. The roots will always be healthy (white, thin, highly branched). This method is used by all commercial plant growers. The company uses Grodan mineral wool fiber. Vata has a high CEC.
** perling (pearling from the English pearl - pearl) - when plants are covered with oxygen bubbles
Book "How-To Hydroponics", 4th Ed. ISBN 0967202612, 100 pgs, published by ; $25 (downloadable PDF version available $20);
- The Growing Edge
review of substrates for hydroponics)
You will hardly find an aquarium in which fish do not coexist with plants. Well, unless it's a display aquarium. In any other situation, underwater plants take on several very important tasks. They are an integral part of the natural environment of aquarium species: they live, feed, and die along with fish, creating a special biological microclimate.
Plants transform purified or even tap water into living, full-bodied water. chemical elements and organic compounds. Underwater greens, like terrestrial ones, are capable of synthesizing oxygen under the influence of light rays. Plants absorb nitrogen and carbon dioxide compounds, acting as biological filters. In addition to all this, plants can be a favorite treat for some fish. In view of these advantages, the demand for aquarium plants never decreases, new species arouse genuine interest, and a queue forms for the imported exotics.
Modern technologies make it possible to grow new varieties at tremendous speed. Industrial breeding occurs in test tubes in laboratory conditions and produces a colossal harvest. Most aquarium plants in European pet stores are obtained in this way, but they are still a novelty for the domestic market. Therefore, home gardening is not only great way regularly update your underwater garden, but also the opportunity to make good money.
In order to create a miniature garden, you will need to understand the methods of propagating underwater and marsh plants, which are in demand among aquarists.
Generative propagation by seeds- enough rare way. It should be used only when offspring cannot be obtained otherwise (for example, in aponogeton). Seeds various types have different germination rates. One of the most important conditions for good germination is maintaining a temperature that corresponds to the natural conditions of the flowering period in nature.
Swamp plants can be sown in moist soil. The seeds of hydatophyte plants germinate in water; later they can be transplanted into pots with sand-clay mixture. Such tubs can also be placed in a community aquarium, but it is advisable to protect them with gauze from snails.
Vegetative propagation occurs much easier and faster.
Most aquarium greens can be propagated from cuttings. After cutting, the side shoots quickly give roots and begin to branch.
No less effective propagation by layering, formed on the shoots of mother plants Cryptocoryne, Echinodorus, Vallisneria and Sagittaria.
Reproduction by rhizome, is a backup option of any kind in case unfavorable conditions for flowering. To stimulate the process, you can divide the rhizomes into sections with a knife, leaving at least one vegetative bud on each.
Some species tend to form daughter plants on their own stems and leaves (for example, Ceratopteris (horn-shaped) fern and Microsorum (Javanese) fern). For further development, it is necessary to carefully separate the adventitious sprout from the uterine stem. Reproduction by bulbs and tubers occurs only in the genus Aponogeton and Crinum, but they very rarely germinate and develop.
Whatever method you choose, for mass breeding you will need to organize your own mini-farm. You can use filtered tap water as water. Sand enriched with nutrients is recommended as soil. You can sprinkle quartz chips 1-3 mm in diameter on top. Lateritic soil from pet stores or loam is added to increase nutritional value, but the pH should be maintained at an acidic or neutral level.
It is recommended to acquire several free aquariums in which plants will be sorted. The main selection criteria will be temperature and light level. An aquarium with tropical and subtropical species should be equipped with a water heater. The fact is that temperature plays a leading role in the development of young shoots. Many heat-loving species are able to live at an average temperature of 24-26ºС. However, an increase to 30 ºС promotes increased growth. In addition, pay special attention to species that are accustomed to daily and seasonal temperature fluctuations.
It is very difficult to bring the lighting of an aquarium closer to natural. During the day, the intensity of sunlight is uneven. The quantity changes throughout the year sundial. The plants in your aquarium are illuminated under constant conditions and it is very important that these conditions are as suitable as possible. Therefore, it is recommended to separate the light from shade-loving plants. Otherwise, you will have to look for a compromise, and this is a good solution for a general-species aquarium, but in the case of breeding plants for sale, this option is undesirable. The daily length of daylight in your nursery should vary between 12-15 hours depending on the season. You should not follow the advice and arrange “dark” preventive days, because even in cloudy and rainy times, some of the light penetrates under the water, stimulating the production of oxygen.
However, much more important than the level of illumination is the spectral parameter. Plants need the benefit of the red and blue spectrum. Special emitters and fluorescent lamps for plants are produced by many lighting manufacturers. The picture looks unnatural, but the issue of aesthetics is better left for a general-species aquarium.
The ratio of oxygen and carbon dioxide in water plays a significant role in maintaining the microclimate. Of course, during the day, plants produce their own oxygen, and for this they need CO2. Normally, carbon dioxide is a product of the respiration of fish and plants themselves at night. But there are no fish in the plant breeding aquarium. How to replenish this supply overnight?
Use special devices sold in pet stores. The use of such devices increases the risk of the formation of insoluble compounds that can damage plants.
It is necessary to artificially soften water, and to replenish the deficit minerals periodically feed the soil with multivitamins and fertilizers.
To somehow balance the unstable balance in the underwater world without fish, get snails. They perfectly loosen the soil, release carbon dioxide and nitrates, eat dead areas of leaves and clean glass. And to control the number of these tireless workers, regularly collect them by hand or on a piece of apple.
Beginning aquarists who decide to practice growing plants, questions are often asked on forums: how to apply fertilizers, how to supply CO2, how to plant, how to prune, what to do with black coating on the leaves, etc., etc.... They are usually advised to “achieve balance”... And this is certainly true , but all these are general words, there are no instructions like: “How to achieve balance in an aquarium, step by step...” Lately, I have also often been asked about similar topics, and the idea came to me to write such instructions based on my own experience. Why not? After all, we all launch new banks and use the same launch schemes and parole...
In order to immediately avoid the wrath of the great gurus who are always and everywhere, I will give a photo of my aquarium (at the bottom of the article) and what it looks like at the time of writing this opus. Since the launch, all this has gone through all types of algae without chemicals and technical means such as CO2 cylinders, external filters, UV lamps... Regular daylight T4 6400k lamps are used instead of standard ones, as I wrote earlier... No super-spectrums and there are no such super funds for super money!
My instructions will most likely be multi-variant, and the number of options will depend on the goals of the aquarist and the initial conditions.. However, it seemed to me possible to average this out, so to speak)) Therefore initial conditions I decided not to take it into account at all! No no, I don’t have a fever and I’m not delirious)) But since we need to achieve balance, it means it doesn’t exist yet... and that means that the initial conditions are as they are. Well, I think it will be clearer later...
I'll start with the simplest option: aquarist grows plants for himself and the speed of plant growth is not important for him. If only it was clean and free of algae. An aquarium gardener does not grow plants for wholesale sale, does not cut them after three days, and does not have technical devices such as CO2 plants and expensive UDOs, which by the way, for example, I didn’t need at all. As I already wrote, I use my own self-mixer)
So the first option and let's call it:
Growing plants in the simplest way.
We have an aquarium 1 or 6 months old with a flip flop, a beard and a black coating on the leaves, the water is clean but from time to time green threads come out, sometimes blue-green (for example in the soil or at the roots)... Light in the aquarium is simply very important. LIGHT AND NOT SUPER LAMPS! For example, I have ordinary fluorescent lamps, but: 100W for 140 liters...Let's start, as was suggested before, with a change of water. But first, let's take a couple of steps. For this we will need clay balls and self-made udos, which are described below.
Step one:
We densely plant the aquarium with plants such as valisneria, hornwort, hygrophila and, for example, rotala indica... In short, in addition to what we have, we add cheap but very unpretentious plants, which grow quickly and are designed to consume excess nitrates and phosphates. I select plants in this way so that there are both lovers of nitrates (hornwort) and big fans of phosphates, or rather quickly absorbing them - as a rule, plants actively produce aerial roots and are ready to eat not only leaves... Rotala, by the way, contrary to popular belief, eats both nitrates and and phosphates, well, that’s true, by the way... The main problem is the number of fish and organic matter in the water. That's why
Step two:
We cultivate in the soil, EXACTLY IN THE SOIL, a culture of nitrobacteria. I would recommend Nitrivek, I use it myself during startup.. Why in the ground? Because since there is a lot of organic matter in the water, the filter (simple, with a sponge) needs to be washed often! Once a week and thoroughly.
We dig clay balls into the soil of the plants, which you can make yourself, if only there was clay. This is necessary in order to introduce less water into the water... After feeding, we begin to change the water.
The first week - every other day by 30%. The second - two days later by 30%, the third week - once by 50%. Then change the water weekly by 25 - 30%. And it’s important: we try to keep the temperature, if possible, no higher than 25 degrees! The fact is that at low temperatures, plants that have not yet started to grow properly will have an advantage in the supply of nutrients over algae. With more high temperatures plants have less chance only if they have not already begun to actively grow. Algae will start much faster!
At this stage we are not pouring any water at all! We only hope for fish. The number of fish can be calculated approximately like this.
Optimally 7 cm per 10-12 liters of water. Those, if you have a jar of 120 liters, then it is advisable to have no more than 12 fish in there, the size of which is about 7cm... This is, of course, approximately and roughly, but the principle is clear, fish are the best producer of fertilizers, but also organic matter, and we need it in this proportion , so that it has time to decompose and feed our grass. The goal is for bacteria to quickly decompose organic matter and for plants to assimilate it faster than algae.
Step three:
We take a time out... About 2-3 weeks... We change the water and don’t do anything.... The aquarium is a self-regulating system.. The clay does its job in the soil.. We don’t interfere and wait for the biological balance to manifest itself, and this will happen approximately in 2-3 weeks. How to see it? Just. You will see that the filter begins to clog more slowly, the water is always clear, and you wipe the glass from plaque less and less often... and... you trim the rotala once every 10 days and the valisnria begins to spread its shoots throughout the jar... All this is still not in perfect condition, but it is clear that the life of the grass has begun to spread throughout the volume..
Now we are one step away from what we want!!!
Step four:
This step depends on the results of the previous steps. Namely:
If the algae disappears in the aquarium, and the plants begin to grow, then there is no need to give additional water. In general, there is no need to get into the biosystem while it is healing itself! Then, when the cleanliness comes, you will feed the plants leaf by leaf and improve their size, but for now just watch the miracle: everything grows by itself! This is truly a miracle, nature regulates itself very effectively without our intervention and chemistry... You can add more complex and beautiful plants)
If cleanliness has already arrived, then during the scheduled water change, we begin fertilizing with self-mixer. Very careful! Macro and micro + separately iron citrate. Slowly. We continue to keep the temperature low. If the temperature is reduced to 23-24 degrees. then you can increase the number of fish by 50 percent! Temperature and light - the most important factors, and in my opinion temperature is more important.
That's all! It's simple. but there are some small additions.
- If the aquarium is young, less than 6 months old, then the denser you plant it, the better.
- if the jar is older than 6 months, then the planting density will affect the amount of CO2 in the water, the rate of UDO absorption and metabolism, and it can be changed arbitrarily by changing the amount of UDO and the amount of CO2, respectively.
- if the light in the aquarium is less than 0.6 W per liter, then CO2 is not needed at all when planting 30% of the volume of grass. If the light is brighter, then either give the mash CO2 or compact the planting.
- I will separately note the usefulness of adding cherry shrimp, Beeline snails, etc. to the aquarium. There will be several times less organic matter and, accordingly, black plaque too. With thick grass, cherries will survive even with barbs and cichlids - it’s been tested, I’ll even publish a video soon.
Plants for aquariums are in great demand in the markets. But to engage in such a business, you need to know all the nuances and pitfalls. Growing plants is quite easy, but only if you give them everything they need to grow.
For full growth of vegetation, it is necessary to provide water, light and properly selected fertilizers. If you save on this, then best case scenario they will grow poorly, at worst they will simply die.
Why are plants needed in an aquarium?
Plants are necessary in an aquarium; they play an important role in the life of the inhabitants:
- plants are the lungs of the aquarium;
- create an established biological system, eliminate harmful substances and algae from the water;
- they work as a status sensor;
- it's not only beautiful interior, but also a home for the inhabitants;
- this is food containing all the necessary substances;
- even if the owners are absent for a long time, the plants will not allow the fish to die;
- this is beauty and naturalness.
Plants in an aquarium create photosynthesis, they consume carbon dioxide and release oxygen. That is, the water will be constantly saturated with oxygen, which is necessary for the fish. If you produce correct selection plants, then there is no need to install additional water filters or create artificial aeration in the aquarium.
In addition to absorbing gas, they feed on all the harmful substances that fish emit. They process all vital processes into fertilizers for their own growth.
If the plants begin to wilt in the aquarium, this is the first sign that something is missing in the aquarium and the condition is beginning to deteriorate. And with lush growth, the aquarium has a 100% good habitat.
Vegetation is not only beautiful, for many species of fish and shrimp it is a home and spawning ground, and fry find refuge in it.
Where to start breeding plants
Breeding aquarium plants begins with three main components, without which they cannot exist. These components include soil, fertilizing and lighting.
The choice of soil depends individually on each species. For some it is not required at all, and some plants live only in a thick layer.
When growing vegetation for sale, it is not recommended to skimp on the substrate, since it contains all the necessary substances for the proper growth and development of plants.
The selected soil should contain several useful substances, the main ones being iron, magnesium, calcium and phosphorus.
Plants living in the soil require a layer thickness of at least 3 cm; for some species the height should be about 5 cm. This layer of soil makes it possible to quickly take root.
When the sprout sits in the ground, it must be pressed at the base with pebbles or small decor, but under no circumstances should a sinker be tied to the roots.
Water temperature plays a big role in the growth of aquarium vegetation. It should be controlled; each type of plant has its own optimal temperature. For some it may be +16, and for others +35 degrees.
Temperature control is especially necessary if aquariums are placed on a windowsill, since cold may emanate from the window, which will cool the water. To control the temperature, a thermometer is lowered into the aquarium, and if necessary, a special device with a heating sensor is installed.
The full cultivation of aquarium plants largely depends on feeding. In modern stores it is provided big choice various fertilizers for vegetation. As a rule, they are produced in tablets, which are crushed and applied under the root system once a month.
The dosage of such fertilizers is calculated as one tablet per aquarium volume of 50 liters.
All fertilizers nourish and strengthen newly planted plants. They contribute rapid growth and stimulate the formation of a strong root system. They help them take root after transplantation and improve resistance to diseases.
Lighting in an aquarium is very important as it is involved in photosynthesis. But there is one caveat: each plant requires individual lighting. Some species require a large amount of light, while others require very little.
But regardless of the type of plant, the aquarium must be illuminated for at least 12 hours. With this duration, the plants will feel good and perform all the necessary functions. The choice of lighting should be based on brightness. The average brightness should be 1.2-1.5 W per liter of water.
For the growth of underwater vegetation, the presence of red and yellow colors is necessary. But in order not to harm your own health with such lighting, it can be diluted by adding blue-colored lamps to the aquarium.
Reproduction of aquarium plants
Before you start creating a small subsidiary farm in an aquarium, you need to know how plants reproduce, because... This is a very important point for selling.
A very rare way is to propagate them by seeds. It is used in rare cases, if offspring cannot be obtained otherwise. Each plant species has different seed germination rates. But the main indicator for good germination is maintaining optimal temperature for germination.
You can simply sow marsh plants in damp soil, while hydatophytes are planted in warm water, but after they sprout they are transplanted into pots with sand and clay. Afterwards they are placed in a common aquarium, but if there are snails in it, it is recommended to cover the seedlings with gauze.
An easier and faster method of propagation is by cuttings. The young shoot of most plants very quickly gives roots and begins to bush.
Varieties such as Cryptocoryne, Echinodorus, Vallisneria and Sagittaria can be propagated by layering. They form on the uterine shoot and are easily detached from it.
If the plants do not have seeds and there are almost no young shoots, then they can be propagated by rhizomes. For this root system divided with a knife, but each rhizome must have at least one vegetative bud.
Vegetation should be planted in such a way that there is a distance between branches and roots. The optimal planting pattern is a checkerboard pattern.
Selection of plants for propagation
All plants that are used for aquariums can be divided into three main groups:
- that float on the surface of the water;
- that grow in the ground;
- which can grow in the ground and float on the surface.
Landing rules
Once the plants have been selected and purchased, they must be planted correctly. But before planting, they should be disinfected. This is necessary in order not to introduce harmful bacteria into the aquarium that may be in the store.
To begin with, all vegetation is washed in warm water, at a temperature of about 40 degrees, after which it is processed disinfectants. To do this, you can use one of 4 means:
- Soak the vegetation for 30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate at the rate of 10 g. powder per 1 liter of water;
- Soak for 5 minutes in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution;
- Dip in methylene blue for 10 minutes, 0.5 grams per 1 liter of water. blue;
- 70 gr. antibiotic ericycline per liter of water and leave for 24 hours.
After disinfection, the vegetation is thoroughly washed in warm water.
When the vegetation is disinfected, diseased leaves and twigs are removed and long roots are pruned. Trimming the root system will allow the plant to take root faster.
Plants are sorted by variety and placed in a basin of clean water. Planting in the aquarium is done before it is filled with water.
Using a spoon or stick, holes are made in the soil. The depth of the holes should be such that the roots of the plant lowered into it do not curl up, but have free space and hang down. It is not recommended to cover it heavily with soil, but the roots should not peek out.
Each sprout has a growth point, it should be on the surface. After the plants are lowered into the hole, they are covered with sand, compacting it a little. If the sprout has very short roots, then it is recommended to place several pebbles around the stem.
Planted plants are covered with gauze or toilet paper, and are regularly sprayed with water, preferably from a spray bottle.
When the plants are planted, settled water is added to the aquarium. It should be poured so that it does not erode the soil and expose the root system.
Floating plants simply sink into an aquarium filled with water. 
Plant care
Plants must be regularly inspected, old and missing leaves must be removed, if layering appears or the bushes grow strongly, they must be replanted.
For full growth, it is necessary to install a special device in the aquarium, which will release carbon dioxide into the water, which is so necessary for plants.
Since there are no fish in the plant breeding aquarium, snails can be kept in it to maintain balance. They clean the glass, loosen the soil and remove all bad leaves and twigs from the plants. In addition, snails release nitrates and gas into the water, which process plants and soften the water.
The water in the aquarium should be changed at least once a week. Water without chlorine is added to the aquarium. To do this, it should be settled or water from a well used.
Common diseases of aquarium plants
Growing aquarium plants for sale requires that they be healthy. After all, just like land plants, they can get sick and die if they lack proper care.
If the plant has stunted and scanty leaves, and the plants are very elongated and have a thin stem, then they do not have enough light. To do this, it is necessary to increase the duration of daylight hours.
If holes appear on the leaves and the edges begin to curl, then they need to be fed. This indicates a lack of nutrients.
When leaf fall begins, that is, the leaves turn yellow and fall off, it is necessary to lower the water temperature and increase the supply of carbon dioxide.
Basic rules for starting a business
The most popular is duckweed; it is easy to care for, grows on the surface and creates a unique look. Vallisneria is inexpensive, grows quickly, and reproduces very easily. Is ideal option for beginners.
Elodea and hornwort create beauty, but require a little more care. They grow quickly, but layering is difficult to take root.
Also simple and inexpensive plants include Limnobium, Riccia and Yanvan moss. All of them grow quickly, do not require much effort and are easy to sell, since in addition to the low price, they create a beautiful view in the underwater kingdom.
But do not forget that the speed of sales and the cost of plants directly depends on their appearance. Plants should be lush, beautiful and without damage.
Business plan for growing vegetation
Before you start breeding aquarium vegetation, you need to draw up a business plan that will reflect all the costs.
The business plan specifies the cost of purchasing aquariums. To start, you will need 3-5 pieces, 200 liters each.
Purchase of additional equipment, filters, lighting, devices for maintaining temperature.
Then the cost of purchasing plants. You should start with the most inexpensive and unpretentious ones; they are easier to sell.
Purchase of fertilizers and soil. It is necessary to take into account the cost of electricity that will be consumed for lighting and heating water. Here the calculation is 1 watt per liter of water.
It is worth remembering that even the most unpretentious varieties vegetation will be able to give full growth no earlier than in a few months. During this time, a beginner will be able to gain the necessary experience in growing plants for an aquarium.
When the plants begin to multiply, you can think about the points of sale of the goods. Here you can choose one of two options.
You can look for buyers among pet stores and markets. In this case, the return on business will be 40-50%. This amount will come from the stores' revenue.
Or you can register as an individual entrepreneur and obtain a patent, which will allow you to engage in sales yourself, in which case the revenue will be much higher. This method is the easiest for beginners, as you can devote more time to working with the underwater farm.
If an individual entrepreneur is registered, then the expenses must include payment of taxes and the cost of registration itself.
Getting into the business of growing aquarium vegetation can be very profitable if you approach it responsibly.