How to make your own collet chuck with your own hands. Do-it-yourself collet chuck: components and manufacturing procedure

The problem of consumption or lack of collet cartridges is especially familiar to jewelers. Manufacturing experts printed circuit boards, are also faced with the above problem.

Collet chucks can be created independently from available materials. However, there are some nuances that will be covered in detail in the article below.

It should immediately be noted that manufactured on a quick fix the collet will not be dismountable. That is, strictly speaking, removing one drill from it and inserting another will not work. For this reason, the manufacturing method is more suitable for those who need to create large quantity identical holes.

So, to create a homemade collet chuck we will need:

• drill;
• blank;
• steel wire;
• soldering flux;
• hoop.

Initially, you should wind the steel wire around the blank in the form of a rigid spring (the half rings come as close to each other as possible). Next, the resulting structure must be thoroughly soldered.

It should be remembered that the diameter of the drill must coincide with the diameter of the motor shaft, which will rotate the drill in the future.

Today, anyone can easily purchase a special cam for any type of drill. This can be done both in construction boutiques that offer equipment for sale, and on the Internet (at auctions such as Ebay or Amazon).

Such a cam will screw onto threaded connection rotating device shaft. The more tightly the cam is twisted, the more firmly it compresses the drill placed in it.

The price of such a device does not exceed sixty rubles. Purchasing a cam will forever save you from searching for suitable collets for using various drills.

Of course, it is better to purchase a cam made of high-carbon, durable steel. To tighten it, it is recommended to use a special wrench, which is included in the kit.

A collet chuck is a type of lathe chuck. They hold the part while it is processed at high speed. There are several types for different forms details, types of processing and purpose. A collet chuck, unlike quick-clamping chucks (QCLs), does not require additional accessories: studs, screws or stoppers. Therefore, its second name is self-clamping. It's simple and reliable device has become widespread in equipping lathes. The most common type of collet is ER.

Types of chucks

Lathes, drilling and milling machines for metal use chucks with mechanical or manual clamping with 2, 3 or 4 jaws. Self-centering 2-jaw machines are used in the manufacture of shaped castings. In 3-jaws, hexagonal and round blanks with a Morse taper are attached. And when processing asymmetrical, rectangular or rods, 4-jaw sets are more convenient.

All clamps are divided into the following categories:

• lever;
• collet;
• drilling (quick-clamping, BZP);
• wedge;
• hydraulic chucks;
• membrane;
• thermal cartridges;
• 3-jaw;
• 4-jaw.

Self-clamping drill chuck is used on universal or special lathes. Their design allows for a stronger transfer of clamping force with a torque significantly lower than spiral chucks. The structure is made of hardened steel and the set of cams is made of the same metal.

The delivery set includes a set of mounting bolts and cams. Often the cartridges that come with a drill or milling machine, they break quite quickly, as they are made of low-quality metal. A qualified turner can make a new one with his own hands.

Working principle of the collet chuck

Chucks with a set of replaceable collets are used for fastening axial workpieces and cutters on milling, turning, drilling machines, equipment with numerical program controlled(CNC). There are many sizes and types of collet chucks that all work on the same principle. The self-clamping nut applies pressure to the end of the collet, which moves into the conical opening; its diameter decreases due to compression, firmly holding the tail end of the Morse cutter. To remove the cutter or part, the nut is screwed together, the pressure is reduced and the collet is released.

The advantage of collet chucks over others is the small radial runout of the workpiece installed in such a clamping device. Fixed in a self-clamping chuck, the part is perfectly centered. Unlike quick-release drills (QCLs) used in drills, self-clamping drills operate without keys, which are often lost.

Typically, such fasteners are used for processing bushings, cylindrical parts with Morse shank, rods. They are very convenient for secondary fastening of already processed parts. If the profile of the part does not match the shape of the chuck inlet, use replaceable cartridges from the set.

Collet chuck design

The chuck consists of a clamping nut and a set of collets. Available with retractable, retractable or fixed collet. According to their purpose, collets can be clamping or feeding.

The feed collet is a hardened steel sleeve with 3 cuts that form a kind of petals with ends directed towards the center and springy. The opening of the feed collet should be such that the workpiece is clamped tightly. The feed collet is screwed onto a rotating feed rod, which feeds the workpiece using a hydromechanical or cam mechanism. When installing the workpiece into the chuck, its Morse end moves between the petals, spreading them apart. Under the influence of elasticity, the petals are pressed tightly against the workpiece. The adhesion increases during processing due to frictional forces.

A solid collet is a sleeve with petals that spring back when impacted. To work parts with a diameter of less than 3 mm, three-lobe collets are used, from 3 to 80 mm - four-lobe collets, and more than 80 mm - six-lobe collets. The grip is increased by reducing the clearance of the slots as the collet is pulled into the chuck.

Split collet - used for fastening parts of the smallest diameter. The jaws of such a cartridge are moved apart using springs. Split collets can be equipped with replacement inserts; their type and dimensions depend on the characteristics of the workpiece.

Collet chucks also hold metalworking tools (drills, taps, cutters) with a small diameter Morse shank. The cutter is secured with a replaceable collet, additionally reinforced with a nut. When screwing the nut, the collet is recessed inside, and being elastic, it firmly clamps the Morse shank. The disadvantage of this type of chuck is that each cutter diameter requires its own collet.

In longitudinal turning machines, a self-clamping chuck is used to secure the mini-workpiece being processed. The design of such collets is somewhat different from conventional ones. Together with them, conventional tools for clamping a Morse taper can also be used to secure the workpiece.

How to choose a collet chuck

The first condition when choosing a self-clamping chuck is attachment to the spindle. The clamp can be installed directly on the spindle, through an adapter, or screwed onto a thread.

Flange size: diameter of the flange for connection or Morse taper parameters. Without knowing the parameters of the end of the flange, you will not be able to select a cartridge.

Number of cams: a set can have two, four, six. The price of the product depends on the quantity, shape and metal. Depending on the type of work, you can purchase fasteners made of hard or soft metal alloy.

How to make your own cartridge

For working on wood, soft metals and plastics, homemade printed circuit boards, a small-power mini-drill made by yourself is suitable. The easiest way is to equip it with a ready-made mini-self-clamping mount made from a pen or pencil. But if you don’t have any at hand, it’s not at all difficult to make a mini-collet with your own hands. Required: soldering iron, 1 mm thick steel wire, solder.

Work progress:

• a spiral is rolled from the wire with a diameter equal to the diameter of the electric motor shaft and the drill with which to work;
• the spiral is soldered, high quality connections are provided soldering flux or KFET;
• the spiral is put on the shaft and the mini-collet is ready.

Video about how a qualified metal turner made a self-clamping chuck with his own hands.

In general, I needed a collet chuck for an excellent high-speed aircraft engine, with an electromagnetic brake.
Its flange is also very convenient for creating a spindle on a small CNC machine for an electronics engineer. Well, the weight is 0.5 kg.

Buy offline, hard to find required diameter so that it is of high quality, and the price is reasonable. I remember a long time ago I took about 500 rubles at the radio market. Now it will probably be 2 times more expensive.

I ordered several pieces from the Chinese. It went without a track for a very long time, I wanted to open a dispute. But it still arrived in more than 3 months.
I was pleased with the quality. It was worth the wait.

And the price is great. Now the Chinese are even cheaper than when I bought them.

Separately, the cartridge comes in a bag like this.

Well different types him in the photo.

Let's look at the photo

Its diameter is about 2.5 mm. This suited me, it was necessary to get it for a larger shaft.
In general, it is suitable for such printer motors. I didn't try it on.
Since you need to tighten the gear, which is very well pressed.

And I needed to make a collet one for this kind of engine.

Which was successfully done, using the method in the bonuses below.
Here's another photo for you. The way it lies in the hand, it can be used perfectly as an engraver.
Very reliable. The shaft won't cut off, if anything happens.

In general, as promised, the technique is how to drill it out and so that it doesn’t hurt. The video is not from me.
Well, a bonus photo from me.

Here
and here
There is additional detail on the collet chuck itself.

I will answer questions in the review itself. I will no longer give pleasure to those who like to downvote in the comments.

Your questions.

1. Buy, look for it on radio markets and on the Internet.
2. It says that it will be inserted automatically, so we are waiting. Gave me a link.
3. Duplicate link 111.93 rub. / PC.
4. The engine name is D-12TF 2 series
5. This is slang. You're not the only one who has it.
6. Guys, if you write rubbish as a theorist and not a practitioner, I will not answer. Only my own experience, which has been verified.

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I will describe my technique for drilling the required diameter.

I need 4mm holes. Ideally, of course, it would be to go through a 4 mm reamer. As luck would have it, I couldn’t find it, it seemed like it was somewhere.

In general, we take drills of several diameter levels, your choice, 2.8, 3, 3.5, 3.8, 4.

We clamp a flat block in a vice. Maybe chipboard.
In it with the diameters listed above, we drill holes in a row.

Then we install the body of the chuck, with the fastening screws unscrewed, into the drill chuck...
Turn the drills upside down cutting part, hold it by the shank with pliers or something else and slowly lower the drill chuck with the back part of it clamped by the collet. That is, we drill it directly.

This review may be of interest to those who from time to time deal with sewing leather or thick fabric products. Under the cut you will find an option for a simple but effective holder for hooks, as well as HEAVY class needles.

I learned to do minor repairs to shoes and other similar items using hooks a long time ago. I really like working with leather, so I recently decided to move to another level - I started sculpting wallets, cases and other oddities. I have already ordered punches, waxed threads and markers from the Celestial Empire... Leather braid, needles, rivets are coming from an offline store...

While searching for tools, I came across interesting “machines” for sewing leather, which in addition to the working element also had a bobbin and a unit for changing attachments. One of them has an excellent review on the website, including illustrative photos of its use. Here it is, in fact: - in all its glory.
Here's another video I'll add on how it works:

In short, the unit seemed very useful, but even in China such devices are somewhat hefty in price. In general, I decided to start a collective farm like this. I would like to immediately explain why this system attracted me:
You can install any hook, just a blind needle to poke holes, a needle with an eye for sewing. By the way, nothing prevents you from clamping a drill and other equipment with a tail of small diameter. You don’t have to keep several hooks on the table, but just get this machine and assemble/make the necessary attachments. This versatility is convenient for wanderers to take with them to repair equipment.
The idea of ​​using needles with eyes at the front is especially interesting. In addition to leather, they allow you to stitch “nervous” fabrics: fabrics, fur, slings, Velcro, various reinforced sheets... An ordinary shoe hook is not capable of this, since it seems to pierce, but on the way back it catches the fibers of the material and tears them up. In addition, the needle is more gentle on the thread - for beginners, the thread is often seriously damaged when crocheting.
To prevent the thread from getting tangled or getting in the way, it is convenient to hold one end of it on the bobbin, this is especially true when you need to make a long seam.

The design was based on a collet chuck, which was previously included in my review of the creation of a mini drill: I once bought it for about 2.5 bucks. Now similar ones can be found even cheaper (in the header there is a link to the seller who has the cartridge in stock, where he got it - it’s no longer there).
You can probably successfully use this small tool holder:

This cartridge, as I understand it, is popular, it is inexpensive and of quite high quality.

Clamps tails from 1.5 to 3 millimeters.
Designed to fit on a shaft with a diameter of 2.3 mm.
Clamping on the shaft is carried out by two barrels on opposite sides. The set contains 5 collets and a key. Here is a photo of the device, however, there are also extra collets in the frame.

Next I chose the handle. I immediately decided that I would wind the thread on it (this is how winter fishing rods are sometimes done). I settled on corks from Artyomovsky champagne and one small one - vodka. In general, these were the options.

I cut the beveled ends off the two plugs to create a larger contact area.

I pierce it with an awl through holes along the axis.

I am preparing wire that will be the supporting form-building frame and the “shaft” for the cartridge. I found one in the garage that was strong enough and had a suitable cross-section.

We assemble the tool dry and try on the cartridge. To install it, just release the tip 1 centimeter.

If everything is fine, we are ready for gluing. At the “rear” end of the wire I made a loop and a small hole at the end of the plug (I then closed it with glue with a metal washer). This is to anchor the wire so that it does not move forward or backward.

Then, using hot glue, I formed a handle onto the wire. By the way, the front synthetic mini-cork forms a “reel” with its fungus.

At the same time, I bungled some additional application on one of the plugs (it just happened to have a more pronounced “waist”). And this one compact tool I liked it even more!!!
There was an idea to cover the handle with yacht varnish, but I decided against it - it’s more pleasant to hold and won’t slip.

About 2 meters of thread are wound on both products, which is enough. Tests have shown that the cartridge does not jump off the wire, it holds the equipment even under good load (in particular, I was afraid that the needles would be pulled out of the collet).

I drove hooks of different cross-sections into the collets - everything worked perfectly. Then he took a large needle and bit off half of it along with the tip, and put the rest in the cartridge. Despite the very smooth shaft, the needle also stays in place well.
By the way, there are powerful factory needles for sale for such tools.

This is how I stitched the thick leather at the edge. It went easily, and with a punch I only slightly marked the pitch of the holes - then I pricked with an awl. No problem, so I didn’t bother further perforating the material.

Then he set about specific work. On occasion, I finally made a new leash/leash for our court terrier, the need for which my wife has been itching for two weeks now.

It was conceived from a durable polymer sling: at one end there is simply a loop for the hand, at the other there is a carabiner on a loop. Even though the material is woven, you can’t pierce it between the cords; you had to press hard. The awl did not fail, the hook would have been out of use.

Procedure.
I melted the ends with a lighter.
Then, folding the sling at the edges into loops of the required size, I glued these places with universal polyurethane glue.
After that, I made several transverse stitches with nylon thread. It turned out reliable and quite neat.

And finally, I will say... that the cartridge is good, it functions normally on a drill, and it also helps with sewing. As for using the needle with your ear forward, I liked it. It’s faster to sew with a crochet hook, but for places where the hook might get stuck, it’s definitely a cool solution.

Oh yes, you may ask, where is the electrical part of the review with amperes and volts? So, this is... I was joking... The product is purely mechanical, it does not connect to the tablet...

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