Hello. Today we will build a Gauss cannon at home using parts that can easily be found in local stores. Using capacitors, a switch and a few other parts, we will create a launcher that can use electromagnetism to launch small nails up to a distance of about 3 meters. Let's get started!
Step 1: Watch the video
Watch the video first. You will study the project and see the gun in action. Read on to learn more detailed instructions for assembling the Gauss Gun device.
Step 2: Gathering the necessary materials
For the project you will need:
- 8 large capacitors. I used 3,300uF 40V. The key point The point here is that the lower the voltage, the less danger, so look for options in the region of 30 - 50 Volts. As for capacity, the more the better.
- One high current circuit breaker
- One coil of 20 turns (I twisted mine from 18awg wire)
- Copper sheet and/or thick copper wire
Step 3: Glue the capacitors together
Take the capacitors and glue them together so that the positive terminals are closer to the center of the glue. First glue them into 4 groups of 2 pieces. Then glue two groups together, resulting in 2 groups of 4 capacitors. Then place one group on top of the other.
Step 4: Assembling a group of capacitors
The photo shows what the final design should look like.
Now take the positive terminals and connect them to each other and then solder them to the copper pad. The overlay can serve as a thick copper wire or leaf.
Step 5: Solder the copper pads
Use directed heat if necessary (a small industrial hair dryer), heat the copper strips and solder the capacitor terminals to them.
The photo shows my group of capacitors after completing this step.
Step 6: Solder the Negative Terminals of the Capacitors
Take another thick conductor, I used an insulated copper lead with a large cross-section, removing it in in the right places isolation.
Bend the wire so that it covers the entire distance of our group of capacitors as efficiently as possible.
Solder it in the right places.
Step 7: Prepare the projectile
Next you need to prepare a suitable projectile for the reel. I wound my reel around the bobbin. I used a small straw as a muzzle. Therefore, my projectile must fit into the straw. I took the nail and cut it to about 3cm long, leaving the sharp part.
Step 8: Find a suitable switch
I then needed to find a way to dump the charge from the capacitors onto the coil. Most people use rectifiers (SCRs) for such needs. I decided to take a simpler approach and found a switch that worked when high strength current.
There are three current ratings on the switch: 14.2A, 15A, and 500A. My calculations showed a maximum force of about 40A at a peak lasting about a millisecond, so it should have worked.
THE NOTE. Do not use my switching method if your capacitors are larger. I pushed my luck and it all worked out fine, but you don't want a breaker to blow because you ran 300A through a breaker rated for 1A.
Step 9: Winding the Reel
We are almost finished assembling the electromagnetic gun. Time to wind the reel.
I tried three different coils and found that about 20 turns of 16 or 18 awg insulated wire worked best. I used an old bobbin, wrapped some wire around it and threaded a plastic straw through it, sealing one end of the straw with hot glue.
Step 10: Assembling the device according to the diagram
Now that you have all the pieces ready, put them together. If you have any problems, follow the diagram.
Step 11: Fire Safety
Congratulations! We made the Grasse cannon with our own hands. Use a charger to charge your capacitors to almost maximum voltage. I charged my 40V setup to 38V.
Load the projectile into the tube and press the button. The current will flow to the coil and it will shoot a nail.
BE CAREFUL! Even considering that this is a low-current project and that it will not kill you, such current can still harm your health. The second photo shows what happens if you accidentally connect plus and minus.
The scope of application of thermal electric guns is quite wide. Industrial units used for heating industrial, warehouse and even residential premises. And in small areas, you can get by with a homemade heat generator design, which is quite capable of heating a garage or country house.
If made electric heat gun with your own hands, it will cost literally pennies. However, in production useful homemade product rules must be followed. Only in this case will the device serve no worse than the factory product.
We will tell you how to properly make an electric gun. From the article we have proposed, you will learn what materials and components will be required to assemble the unit. Our advice will help in the manufacture of efficient and economical equipment.
Unlike other types of heat guns, an electrical device can be made by almost any home craftsman familiar with the basics of electronics.
Although the efficiency of an electric gun is much lower than diesel or, it does not emit combustion products harmful to health and can be installed in any room - a residential building, a greenhouse, outbuildings.
The power of industrial guns varies from 2 to 45 kW, and the number of heating elements in them can reach up to 15 pieces
Let's look at how an electric unit works.
Design and principle of operation of the heat generator
Any electric gun consists of three main components: a housing, an electric motor with a fan and heating element. The varieties of this type of device are described in detail, devoted to the classification and principles of operation of heat guns.
Additionally, the device can be equipped with any “bonuses” from factory units - speed switch, heat regulator, room thermostat, housing heating sensor, engine protection and other elements, but they increase not only comfort and safety during operation, but also the cost of the homemade product.
The rate of heating of air throughout the entire volume of the room depends on the number and power of heating elements - the larger their area, the more active heat transfer will occur
An electric gun works like this:
- when connected to the network, the heating element transforms electricity V thermal energy, due to which it heats itself up;
- the electric motor drives the impeller blades;
- the fan forces air from the room inside the case;
- the cold air flow comes into contact with the surface of the heating element, heats up and, forced by the fan, is removed from the “barrel” of the gun.
If the appliance is equipped with a thermostatic element, it will stop the heater when the programmed temperature is reached. In primitive devices you will have to control the heating yourself.
Advantages and disadvantages of homemade guns
The main advantage of a thermal electric generator is the ability to use it in any room where there is a network of at least 220 W.
Such devices, even in a home-made version, are mobile, weigh little and are quite capable of heating an area of up to 50 m2 (theoretically, more is possible, but it is better not to experiment with high-power devices and buy a ready-made unit, and a gun from 5 kW will already require connection to a three-phase network ).
The performance characteristics of the device must correspond to the heated area. On average, for every 10 m2 you will need 1 kW, but much depends on the room itself - building materials, quality of glazing and presence of insulation
Pros of a homemade electric gun:
- Saving money– factory units are not cheap, and a heating device can be assembled with a minimum of purchased parts or even entirely from improvised means, removing the missing elements from old devices.
- Safety– of all the homemade heat generators, the electric device is the easiest to operate, since it does not require a connection to gas or refueling with flammable fuel. With proper assembly of the electrical circuit, the risk of spontaneous combustion for such guns is minimal.
- Fast room heating– the operation of a heat gun is much more efficient than other options for homemade electric heaters, for example, fireplaces or oil radiators.
Among the disadvantages we can note high consumption electricity (the amount depends on the power of the engine and heating element). In addition, the operation of the fan is quite noisy, and the larger the wingspan and rotation speed, the stronger the noise produced will be.
Well, any disadvantage of homemade electrical device– the likelihood of an error during assembly or connection, which can cause a short circuit in the network, electric shock and spontaneous combustion of the device.
Electric gun manufacturing options
The most difficult stage in assembling the device is to make correct scheme electrical circuits for connecting the device to the network. Therefore, we suggest using already ready-made example, taking it as the basis for a future heat gun. As can be seen in the diagram, the toggle switch and thermostats must be connected in series, and the circuit must be closed on the heating element and the electric motor with the fan.
The thermostat is responsible for the heating level of the heating element and automatically disconnects the circuit when it reaches desired temperature indoors, and if you exclude it from the circuit, you will have to independently monitor the equipment to avoid overheating
Let's look at the manufacturing features of two simple options.
A simple fan heater with a ready-made heating element
For the body of the future gun, you can select a piece of metal or asbestos-cement pipe of a suitable diameter. It is best to adjust the size according to the span of the fan “wings”, because it should overlap one of the ends of the device.
If desired, the heat generator can be made from a small metal tank, a galvanized bucket, an old saucepan or a waste gas cylinder, the main thing is that the walls of the “casing” are not thin.
The power of the fan for a heat gun is not decisive, because the speed of heating the air depends solely on the heating element, and the impeller only disperses the warm flow throughout the room, so you can safely take a fragment from a household hood or vacuum cleaner
As for the heating element, you can remove this element from a used tile or boiler, or purchase it in a store - now it’s not a problem to find a heater of any shape. If you buy ready-made, the best option would be a finned part, specifically designed to quickly warm up the moving air flow.
The power of the heating element must be stamped on its body or stated in the accompanying documentation, but if this old device, you can measure its resistance with a multimeter and determine the power using the above formula
In addition to the three main elements (housing, motor and heating element), for work you will need a three-core cable, bolts, and an RCD that disconnects the network in a dangerous situation.
Step-by-step work plan:
- Definition required power for a future electric gun. As a starting point, you can take the common formula, according to which 1 kW is required per 10 m2 (with a ceiling height of 2.5-3 m). And if the room is not insulated, is located in the basement or has a large glass area, feel free to add another 20-30% to the data obtained. But if the required power exceeds 2.5-3 kW, think about whether your wiring can withstand such a load.
- Case manufacturing. If this a metal sheet– it needs to be bent and fixed in shape by welding, hoops or rivets. For a bucket, cylinder or pan, saw off the bottom and lid. In short, the result should be a cylindrical or rectangular shape with two open holes at the ends.
- Checking the resistance of the heating element and comparing it with the calculated one. If necessary, you can add 1-2 more elements by connecting them in series, or increase the power by shortening the element.
- Mounting the electric motor with fan(you can use standard fasteners). The impeller should close the gap as tightly as possible, but at the same time rotate freely. The wires are connected to the network through a 6A fuse and are equipped with a switch.
- Securing the heating element inside the pipe(approximately in the center) using rivets or plates made of refractory materials. The distance should be far enough away from the fan so as not to overheat the electric motor. The wires are led out of the housing and are also connected to the network, but through a 25A fuse.
After checking the insulation of all connections, you can make trial run device. If everything is assembled correctly, when you plug the plug into the socket, a fan will begin to rotate at one end of the gun, and warm air will come out of the other, gradually increasing in temperature.
Device with nichrome heater
If you don’t have an old one in your home craftsman’s arsenal household appliance, from where you can remove the heating element, but for some reason you don’t want to buy a ready-made heater, you can make it yourself from a nichrome spiral.
In addition to low cost, such an element has an important advantage over factory copies - the ability to independently adjust right size according to the housing format and increase the heating speed to a safe maximum.
Devices with an open spiral are considered a fire hazard by default, so making a heating element yourself requires good electrical skills
For homemade products, you will need to buy nichrome wire with a suitable diameter and resistance parameter. And this depends on the planned power of your device (for household devices and a 220 V network, it is advisable not to exceed 5 kW).
For example, for a gun up to 2 kW you will need wire with a resistance of 27-30 ohm, which must be wound on a ceramic rod or other heat-resistant material (in extreme cases, you can break off a plate of refractory brick).
The size of the spiral can be determined experimentally by selecting the number of turns according to the degree of heating of the wire, but it is much easier to use the table, where D is the diameter of the rod on which the wire of length L will be wound
Another option is to make a homemade heating element from a small piece of asbestos-cement pipe, placing a rolled spiral from the same inside nichrome wire. The coils can be arranged horizontally and vertically to cover a larger area.
Homemade heating element for 1.6 kW from six spiral fragments that almost completely block the lumen of the pipe, which ensures rapid heating of the air flow
The assembly of the structure is carried out by analogy with the instructions described above, so we will not repeat the same points, but will only consider the nuances of connecting a homemade heating element:
- To keep the spiral in the correct shape, make special notches on the rod for each turn. The wire must be wound tightly enough, but always in one layer.
- The ends of the wire must be connected to the electrical wires using bolted connections and insulate.
- The wires brought out through the holes drilled in the housing must be connected to the network through a 25A fuse.
A significant drawback of such a homemade product, in addition to energy consumption and other disadvantages of electric guns, is the unpleasant burnt smell that arises from the combustion of dust on an open coil.
Rules for safe work using a homemade gun is practically no different from the operation of other electrical appliances: you must avoid tipping the device over and getting moisture inside it, do not touch the heated body and do not leave the unit working unattended.
One of the important features is that before turning it off, you must first stop the operation of the heating element, let the fan run idle for a few minutes, and only then pull the plug from the power supply.
Homemade heat guns without thermostats are not intended for long work– they can cause a short circuit in the network or ignite from a hot coil; in addition, electrical appliances dry out the air, so it is recommended to ventilate the room more often
Tips for assembling homemade products:
- The body for any type of electric gun is best made of metal with a wall thickness of at least 1 mm or asbestos cement. Although you can buy a thermoplastic container of suitable size, such a “casing” can emit unpleasant odors when heated, and will require strict control over the temperature of the coil.
- The annoying noise from the operation of the impeller can be reduced if relatively quiet car fans are used for the design.
- To prevent the hot surface of the housing from causing a fire, it can be installed on a frame made of reinforcement, an asbestos-cement stand, or a heat-absorbing coating can be applied.
- The power supply to the fan and heating element is always carried out separately.
- Monitor the quality of the insulation of all wires protruding beyond the gun body.
Grounding the metal body of the device will help prevent accidental electric shock.
And the last piece of advice - if your knowledge of electrical equipment is at the level of an amateur beginner, then before connecting homemade apparatus to the network, consult with a master who will evaluate the performance and safety of your creation with a professional eye.
He will introduce you to the criteria for choosing a factory-made electric fan heater. If you doubt your own abilities or you don’t have time to assemble a homemade product, read the material we recommend.
Video #3. 2 kW heat gun from an old fire extinguisher:
As you can see, making an electric gun with your own hands is really not difficult. But if you are not confident in your skills in working with the electrical part, it is better to consult an experienced electrician or buy a ready-made device.
If you have recommendations or have any questions while reading the material, leave posts in the block below. Please comment on the material we present and post photos on the topic. Perhaps your advice will be useful to site visitors.
Possess a weapon that, even in computer games ah can only be found in a mad scientist's laboratory or near a time portal to the future - that's cool. Watching how people indifferent to technology involuntarily fix their gaze on the device, and avid gamers hastily pick up a jaw from the floor - it’s worth spending a day on assembly for this DIY Gauss guns.
As usual, we decided to start with the simplest design - single coil induction gun. Experiments with multi-stage acceleration of a projectile were left to experienced electronics engineers who were able to build a complex switching system using powerful thyristors and fine-tune the moments of sequential activation of the coils. Instead, we focused on the ability to create a dish using widely available ingredients.
So, to build a Gauss cannon, first of all you have to go shopping. In the radio shop for homemade products need to buy several capacitors with tension 350–400 V and total capacity 1000–2000 microfarads, enameled copper wire diameter 0.8 mm, battery compartments For « Crowns"and two 1.5 volt C batteries, toggle switch and button. Let's take five in photo products disposable cameras Kodak, in auto parts - the simplest four-pin relay from “Zhiguli”, in “products” - a pack straws For cocktails, and in “toys” - a plastic pistol, machine gun, shotgun, shotgun or any other gun that you want to turn into a weapon of the future.
Let's keep talking...
The main power element of our gun is inductor. With its manufacture it is worth starting assembling the weapon. Take a length of straw 30 mm and two big ones washers(plastic or cardboard), assemble them into a bobbin using a screw and nut. Start winding the enameled wire around it carefully, turn to turn (if large diameter wires are quite simple). Be careful not to allow sharp bends in the wire or damage the insulation. After finishing the first layer, fill it superglue and start winding the next one. Do this with each layer. All you need to do is reel 12 layers. Then you can disassemble the reel, remove the washers and put the reel on a long straw, which will serve as a barrel. One end of the straw should be plugged. It is easy to check the finished coil by connecting it to 9 volt battery: If it holds a paper clip suspended, then you have succeeded. You can insert a straw into the coil and test it as a solenoid: it should actively draw a piece of paper clip into itself, and when connected pulsed, even throw it out of the barrel at 20–30 cm.
Dissecting values
It is perfectly suited for the formation of a powerful electrical impulse (in this opinion we agree with the creators of the most powerful laboratory railguns). Capacitors are good not only for their high energy capacity, but also for their ability to release all the energy within a very short time, before the projectile reaches the center of the coil. However, capacitors need to be charged somehow. Fortunately, the charger we need is available in any camera: a capacitor is used there to generate a high-voltage pulse for the ignition electrode of the flash. Disposable cameras are best for us, because the capacitor and “charging” are the only electrical components they have, which means getting the charging circuit out of them is as easy as shelling pears.
Disassembling a disposable camera is the stage at which you should begin to develop caution. When opening the case, try do not touch the elements of the electrical circuit: the capacitor can retain its charge for a long time. Having gained access to the capacitor, the first thing to do is close its terminals with a screwdriver with a dielectric handle . Only after this can you touch the board without fear of getting an electric shock. Remove the battery brackets from the charging circuit, unsolder the capacitor, and the jumper to the contacts of the charging button - we will no longer need it. Prepare the minimum in this way five charging boards. Pay attention to the location of the conductive tracks on the board: you can connect to the same circuit elements in different places.
Setting priorities
Selecting the capacitor capacity is a matter of compromise between the energy of the shot and the charging time of the gun. We settled on four capacitors 470 microfarads (400 V), connected in parallel. Before each shot, we spend approximately minutes We are waiting for the signal from the LEDs on the charging circuits, indicating that the voltage in the capacitors has reached the required level 330 V. You can speed up the charging process by connecting several 3-volt battery compartments in parallel to the charging circuits. However, it is worth keeping in mind that powerful batteries type “C” have excess current for weak camera circuits. To prevent the transistors on the boards from burning out, each 3-volt assembly should have 3–5 charging circuits connected in parallel. On our gun, only one battery compartment is connected to the “chargers”. All others serve as spare stores.
Defining safety zones
We would not advise anyone to hold a button under their finger that discharges a battery of 400-volt capacitors. To control the descent it is better to install relay. Its control circuit is connected to a 9-volt battery through the shutter button, and the control circuit is connected to the circuit between the coil and the capacitors. It will help to assemble the gun correctly circuit diagram. When assembling a high-voltage circuit, use a wire with a cross-section of at least millimeters, any thin wires are suitable for the charging and control circuits. When experimenting with the circuit, remember: capacitors may have residual charge. Discharge by short circuit before touching them.
Artem Let's sum it up
The shooting process looks like this:
- turn on the power switch;
- wait for the LEDs to glow brightly;
- lower the projectile into the barrel so that it is slightly behind the coil;
- turn off the power so that when firing, the batteries do not take energy from themselves; take aim and press the shutter button.
The result largely depends on the mass of the projectile.
Be careful, the weapon is real danger.
Having a weapon that, even in computer games, can only be found in a mad scientist's laboratory or near a time portal to the future is cool. Watching how people indifferent to technology involuntarily fix their eyes on the device, and avid gamers hastily pick up their jaw from the floor - for this it is worth spending a day assembling a Gauss cannon.
As usual, we decided to start with the simplest design - a single-coil induction gun. Experiments with multi-stage acceleration of a projectile were left to experienced electronics engineers who were able to build a complex switching system using powerful thyristors and fine-tune the moments of sequential activation of the coils. Instead, we focused on the ability to create a dish using widely available ingredients. So, to build a Gauss cannon, first of all you have to go shopping. In the radio store you need to buy several capacitors with a voltage of 350-400 V and a total capacity of 1000-2000 microfarads, enameled copper wire with a diameter of 0.8 mm, battery compartments for the Krona and two 1.5-volt C-type batteries, a toggle switch and a button. In photographic goods, let's take five Kodak disposable cameras, in auto parts - a simple four-pin relay from a Zhiguli, in "products" - a pack of cocktail straws, and in "toys" - a plastic pistol, machine gun, shotgun, shotgun or any other gun that you want to turn it into a weapon of the future.
Let's go crazy
The main power element of our gun is the inductor. With its manufacture it is worth starting assembling the weapon. Take a piece of straw 30 mm long and two large washers (plastic or cardboard), assemble them into a bobbin using a screw and nut. Start winding the enameled wire onto it carefully, turn by turn (with a large wire diameter this is quite simple). Be careful not to allow sharp bends in the wire or damage the insulation. Having finished the first layer, fill it with superglue and begin winding the next one. Do this with each layer. In total you need to wind 12 layers. Then you can disassemble the reel, remove the washers and put the reel on a long straw, which will serve as a barrel. One end of the straw should be plugged. It's easy to test the finished coil by connecting it to a 9-volt battery: if it holds a paper clip, you've succeeded. You can insert a straw into the coil and test it as a solenoid: it should actively draw a piece of paper clip into itself, and when connected pulsed, even throw it out of the barrel by 20-30 cm.
Once you get comfortable with a simple single-coil circuit, you can test your strength in building a multi-stage gun - after all, this is what a real Gauss cannon should be like. Thyristors (powerful controlled diodes) are ideal as a switching element for low-voltage circuits (hundreds of volts), and controlled spark gaps are ideal for high-voltage circuits (thousands of volts). The signal to the control electrodes of the thyristors or spark gaps will be sent by the projectile itself, flying past photocells installed in the barrel between the coils. The moment when each coil turns off will depend entirely on the capacitor supplying it. Be careful: excessively increasing the capacitance of the capacitor for a given coil impedance can lead to an increase in pulse duration. In turn, this can lead to the fact that after the projectile passes the center of the solenoid, the coil will remain on and slow down the movement of the projectile. An oscilloscope will help you track and optimize the moments of turning on and off each coil in detail, as well as measure the speed of the projectile.
Dissecting values
A battery of capacitors is ideally suited for generating a powerful electrical pulse (in this opinion, we agree with the creators of the most powerful laboratory railguns). Capacitors are good not only for their high energy capacity, but also for their ability to release all the energy within a very short time, before the projectile reaches the center of the coil. However, capacitors need to be charged somehow. Fortunately, the charger we need is available in any camera: a capacitor is used there to generate a high-voltage pulse for the ignition electrode of the flash. Disposable cameras work best for us because the capacitor and “charger” are the only electrical components they have, which means getting the charging circuit out of them is a piece of cake.
The famous railgun from the Quake series takes first place in our ranking by a wide margin. For many years, masterful use of the “rail” has distinguished advanced players: the weapon requires filigree shooting accuracy, but if it hits, the high-speed projectile literally tears the enemy to pieces.
Disassembling a disposable camera is a step where you need to start being careful. When opening the case, try not to touch the elements of the electrical circuit: the capacitor can retain a charge for a long time. Having gained access to the capacitor, first short-circuit its terminals with a screwdriver with a dielectric handle. Only after this can you touch the board without fear of getting an electric shock. Remove the battery brackets from the charging circuit, unsolder the capacitor, solder a jumper to the contacts of the charging button - we will no longer need it. Prepare at least five charging boards in this manner. Pay attention to the location of the conductive tracks on the board: you can connect to the same circuit elements in different places.
The sniper gun from the exclusion zone receives the second prize for realism: the electromagnetic accelerator, made on the basis of the LR-300 rifle, sparkles with numerous coils, characteristically hums when charging capacitors and kills the enemy at enormous distances. The power source is the Flash artifact.
Setting priorities
Selection of capacitor capacity is a matter of compromise between shot energy and gun charging time. We settled on four 470 microfarad (400 V) capacitors connected in parallel. Before each shot, we wait for about a minute for a signal from the LEDs on the charging circuits, indicating that the voltage in the capacitors has reached the required 330 V. The charging process can be accelerated by connecting several 3-volt battery compartments in parallel to the charging circuits. However, it is worth keeping in mind that powerful “C” batteries have excessive current for weak camera circuits. To prevent the transistors on the boards from burning out, each 3-volt assembly must have 3-5 charging circuits connected in parallel. On our gun, only one battery compartment is connected to the “chargers”. All others serve as spare stores.
Location of contacts on the charging circuit of a Kodak disposable camera. Pay attention to the location of the conductive tracks: each wire of the circuit can be soldered to the board in several convenient places.
Defining safety zones
We would not advise anyone to hold a button under their finger that discharges a battery of 400-volt capacitors. To control the descent, it is better to install a relay. Its control circuit is connected to a 9-volt battery through the shutter button, and the control circuit is connected to the circuit between the coil and the capacitors. A schematic diagram will help you assemble the gun correctly. When assembling a high-voltage circuit, use a wire with a cross-section of at least a millimeter; any thin wires are suitable for the charging and control circuits. When experimenting with the circuit, remember: capacitors may have residual charge. Discharge by short circuit before touching them.
In one of the most popular strategy games, the foot soldiers of the Global Security Council (GDI) are equipped with powerful anti-tank railguns. In addition, railguns are also installed on GDI tanks as an upgrade. In terms of danger, such a tank is about the same as the Star Destroyer in Star Wars.
Let's sum it up
The shooting process looks like this: turn on the power switch; wait for the LEDs to glow brightly; lower the projectile into the barrel so that it is slightly behind the coil; turn off the power so that when firing, the batteries do not take energy from themselves; take aim and press the shutter button. The result largely depends on the mass of the projectile. Using a short nail with a bitten off head, we managed to shoot through a jar with energy drink, which exploded and flooded half the editorial office with a fountain. Then the gun, cleaned of sticky soda, launched a nail into the wall from a distance of fifty meters. And our weapon strikes the hearts of fans of science fiction and computer games without any shells.
Ogame is a multiplayer space strategy in which the player will feel like an emperor of planetary systems and wage intergalactic wars with the same living opponents. Ogame has been translated into 16 languages, including Russian. The Gauss Cannon is one of the most powerful defensive weapons in the game.
A variety of devices have been invented to heat rooms of all sizes, but none of them can be compared in efficiency to a heat gun. It is noteworthy that such a device is easy to assemble yourself, having a kit available finished parts and nodes. How to do it yourself and which variety to give preference to is the subject of our conversation.
Purpose and principle of operation of a heat gun
Today, a special variety is often used in everyday life. heating devices- fan heaters. Relatively small device due to forced submission air blowing onto heating coils can warm a room in a matter of minutes. A heat gun is like the older brother of a fan heater. Here's how it differs from him:
- both the heater and fan are more powerful;
- not only electricity is used as a heat source, but also different kinds fuel.
A heat gun is indispensable if you need to heat a room with large area And high ceilings: hangar, warehouse, trade or exhibition pavilion, greenhouse. Such facilities are not equipped with a traditional heating system with radiators, since with such volumes it is pointless: dozens of radiators or convectors would have to be installed. A heat gun with sufficient power, even alone, will easily solve the problem of heating a large space.
In addition to the purely heating function, heat guns help solve various technical problems, for example:
- in everyday life: heating polymer stretch ceiling and the room in which it is installed (makes it possible to greatly stretch the panel);
- in food production: fruit drying;
- in construction: drying freshly laid plaster and screed.
Types of heat guns
Electrical
The function of the heat generator in such a device is performed by a spiral made of nichrome or other alloy with high electrical resistance or a tubular electric heater (TEH). In the heating element, the main role is played by the same spiral, but it is placed in a copper or brass tube filled with sand.
The electric heat gun is characterized by the absence of increased noise and harmful emissions
Thus, the heating element heats up less than the coil in pure form, but the difference in temperature is compensated by the increased surface area. That is, the heating element is not inferior in performance to the spiral, but dust does not burn on it and, therefore, users will not experience an unpleasant odor.
An electric heat gun has the following advantages:
- simple design, minimum parts;
- light weight;
- minimal noise level (only the fan makes noise);
- absence of any emissions;
- safety due to the absence of open flame.
All these properties make electric heat guns the most convenient. But you also need to take into account the following features:
- Electric heating, even despite its efficiency close to 100%, is by far the most expensive.
- The permissible power of the device depends on the load the supply network is designed for. There are often significant restrictions, for example, the household electrical network allows you to connect devices with a power of no more than 7 kW.
- At high humidity the electric gun becomes dangerous.
Burner
Heaters of this type are equipped with a burner, through which one or another type of fuel is burned. An important advantage of burner heat guns compared to electric ones is their practically unlimited power, which does not depend on anything. An equally important drawback is the emission of smoke. The units are available in two versions:
Based on the type of fuel used, burner heat guns are divided into several types.
Gas
The disadvantages are the following:
- For battery life you need to fill the cylinder with liquefied gas, which requires special equipment;
- Gas fuel is explosive, but its leakage is not visually detectable.
In case of spontaneous extinguishing of the burner, the gas gun is equipped with an electromagnetic valve, which in such a situation automatically shuts off the gas supply based on a signal from the temperature sensor.
Diesel
In addition to the housing, heater and fan, a diesel heat gun is necessarily equipped with a tank, a pump for supplying fuel and a filter for cleaning it. High pressure pump (it’s called a fuel pump high pressure or injection pump) supplies fuel to the injector installed in the combustion chamber. At the exit it is sprayed into a fog. To make the fuel more liquid, a preheating chamber is installed near the injector.
Indirectly heated diesel heat gun equipped with a stainless flue pipe
There may not be a fuel pump: some heat guns use the ejector principle of fuel supply. Due to the pressure difference, it is drawn into the fast-moving air flow, as a result of which a fuel-air mixture enters the chamber.
Diesel units are inferior to gas analogues in the following:
- use more expensive fuel;
- they make louder noise;
- they work poorly in cold weather (fuel becomes viscous);
- publish bad smell even in the version with indirect heating;
- are more expensive (the cost increases due to the high pressure fuel injection pump and injector being difficult to manufacture);
- due to more complex design less reliable, but repairs are more expensive;
- need a fuel tank and periodically require refilling.
Positive qualities are explosion safety and the ability to pour fuel into the tank without the use of special equipment.
Under no circumstances should you refuel a diesel gun with gasoline or any other flammable fuel!
Multi-fuel
These guns are similar to diesel ones, only they can also run on waste oil. When using such fuel, the operation of the installation is even cheaper than gas.
Kerosene and waste oils - motor, hydraulic, etc. - are used as fuel for multi-fuel guns.
Solid fuel
This is a cumbersome and least practical option, since fuel must be added manually all the time. But such an installation is most accessible to self-made: Of the purchased components, only a fan is required.
Diagram of a heat gun operating on solid fuel
Water and steam
In such models, air blows over a radiator into which hot water or steam is supplied. Guns of this type - great option for objects with centralized system heating (at enterprises it is steam) or hot water supply. No electric heaters or burners are needed. It is enough to connect the heater to any of the listed systems - and you can use the energy hot water or coolant.
Water heat guns are hung on the wall or ceiling without occupying the usable area of the heated room
Infrared
As is known, bodies give off thermal energy not only through contact with the environment, but also through infrared (IR) radiation. electromagnetic waves. The higher the body temperature, the more intense the infrared radiation is. The operation of IR heat guns is based on this phenomenon: in the heater they have a metal element that is heated to very high temperatures. high temperature(red glow).
A reflector is installed behind it, so that all radiation is directed in one direction. There is no fan, since it is not necessary: heat is transferred without the participation of air directly to the object located in the field of action of the device.
An infrared heat gun differs from other types in the absence of a fan, which ensures its quiet operation
The following can be said about IR guns:
- They are very effective in open areas and in well-ventilated areas, that is, in areas where the air heated by a conventional heat gun would quickly evaporate.
- Due to the absence of a fan, they produce less noise.
- People find it more comfortable to bask in their rays, since they do not create an air flow.
- An IR gun is unable to create an even microclimate in a large room, since it does not provide forced air mixing.
- Heating with such a gun is not always comfortable, since it can be hot at a close distance from it, and cool at a distance. In addition, it only heats on one side, and if the user’s head gets into the field of action, unpleasant sensations are possible.
IR guns can be either electric or burner.
Many of the modern heat guns, except for solid fuel ones, are capable of automatically maintaining a user-specified room temperature by timely switching on and off. In burner guns, automatic ignition is carried out by a piezoelectric element that generates a spark.
What guns can you make with your own hands?
You can independently assemble the following types of guns:
- electrical;
- diesel;
- gas;
- solid fuel (designed for wood fuel).
What elements does it consist of?
So, in general, this device consists of:
- a cylindrical body (it gives the device a resemblance to a cannon) with gratings at the inlet and outlet;
- heating element;
- a fan blowing the heating element;
- filters for suction air purification.
This set can be expanded or, conversely, reduced, depending on what is used as a heat source. There are several options and each of them is worth considering in detail.
Diagram of a heat gun operating on diesel fuel
Calculation
First of all, you need to determine how much power a homemade heat gun should have. Obviously, this parameter will depend on the volume of the room, as well as on how quickly the generated heat is dissipated into the external environment. It is customary to use the following empirical formula: Q = V x T x K, where Q is the power of the heat gun, kcal/h; V is the volume of the room, m3; T - temperature difference inside and outside the room, 0 C; K is a dimensionless coefficient that takes into account the intensity of thermal energy dissipation into the environment, in other words, the heat loss of the building. Taken equal to:
- for non-insulated frame buildings with wooden or metal casing: K = 3–4;
- for poorly insulated light buildings with single-layer brick walls, ordinary non-heat-saving windows and a non-insulated roof: K = 2–2.9;
- For capital buildings with double-layer brick walls, windows regular sizes and medium-insulated roof: K = 1–1.9;
- for buildings well insulated with modern highly efficient thermal insulators (including the roof and floor) and equipped with modern energy-saving windows with double-glazed windows: K = 0.6–0.9.
To convert power Q into more familiar kilowatts, its value in kcal/h must be divided by 860.
Thus, to heat an uninsulated warehouse sheathed with corrugated steel sheets (assuming K = 4) with an area of 10x15 m with a ceiling height of 5 m at an outside temperature of -5 0 C (inside it is necessary to maintain a temperature of +18 0 C), heat guns with a total capacity will be required:
Q = (10 x 15 x 5) x (18 – (-5)) x 4 = 750 x 23 x 4 = 69,000 kcal/h = 69,000 / 860 = 80.2 kW.
Tools and materials
To make a heat gun you will need:
- steel equal angles 40x4 mm or 50x4 mm;
- a pipe with a diameter of about 250 cm or a sheet of galvanized steel 0.7–1 mm thick;
- a duct fan with an impeller diameter corresponding to the diameter of the pipe (you can take a fan with a motor from an old vacuum cleaner);
- copper two-core wire with plug;
- metal tank, lined thermal insulation material(for a diesel heat gun).
Depending on the type of homemade heater, you will additionally need:
- for the electric model: heating elements (it is better to remove the spiral heater from the old electric furnace), ceramic insulator, terminals, fuses;
- for gas: gas-burner with piezo ignition and solenoid valve;
- for diesel: nozzle, injection pump, fuel filter, copper tube;
- for wood burning: sheet steel, corners.
You also need to prepare the following tools:
- electric welding machine;
- soldering iron;
- drill with a set of metal drills;
- hacksaw for metal;
- spanners;
- pliers;
- rivet machine.
Making a heat gun with your own hands
The process of creating a homemade heat gun always begins with making a frame from the corners to which the body and other components will be attached. Further actions depend on the type of installation.
First, a diagram of the electrical circuit of the installation is drawn up. If the master does not have the relevant knowledge, he can use ready-made developments.
This is what a schematic diagram of a heat gun looks like
Mistakes made when assembling an electric heater can result in electrical damage or electric shock. When performing work, follow safety regulations.
An electric heat gun is made as follows:
Video: DIY electric gun for heating the garage
Heat gun on diesel fuel and diesel fuel
The manufacturing process consists of the following stages:
We draw the reader's attention to the fact that this heat gun operates according to a direct heating scheme, so it cannot be used in residential or other premises with people or animals.
To check the correct assembly, it is advisable to invite a specialist from some auto repair shop.
The homemade model does not have a flame control sensor and an overheating protection system, so it cannot be left unattended during operation.
Video: multi-fuel heat gun
Gas heat gun
This installation is made as follows:
- A meter section of pipe with a diameter of 180 mm is used as a body. In the absence of a finished pipe, it is made from a galvanized sheet, fastening its edges with rivets.
- At the ends of the housing on the side you need to cut a hole with a diameter of 80 mm (here the pipe for removing heated air will be connected) and 10 mm (here the burner will be installed).
- A combustion chamber is made from a meter-long piece of pipe with a diameter of 80 mm. It needs to be welded into the body exactly in the center, for which it is necessary to use several plates.
- Next from steel sheet a disk is cut out to be used as a plug. Its diameter must correspond to the diameter of the heat gun body (180 mm). A hole with a diameter of 80 mm is cut in the center of the disk for the combustion chamber. Thus, a plug welded to the body on one side will close the gap between it and the combustion chamber. The plug must be welded on the heated air supply side.
- A heated air supply pipe is welded to a hole with a diameter of 80 mm made in the housing.
- A burner with a piezoelectric element is installed in a 10 mm hole. Next, a gas supply hose is connected to it using a clamp.
- The manufacture of the heat gun is completed by installing the fan and connecting it and the piezo igniter to the power supply via a switch.
Video: homemade gas heat gun
The easiest way to make such a heater is from an old gas cylinder. If it is not available, you can use a thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 300–400 mm as the main blank - then the lid and bottom will need to be welded yourself (the cylinder already has these elements).
One of the options for a wood-burning heat gun is shown in the drawing:
Drawing general view heat gun indicating its main dimensions
As you can see, the body of the heat gun is divided into a firebox and an air chamber with inlet and outlet openings. The partition between them and the improvised plate radiator act as a heating element for the air passed through the chamber. The location of the radiator fins is shown in the sections.
Sections - frontal and horizontal, which show internal organization guns
By attaching a corrugated hose to the outlet pipe of the air chamber, the user will be able to supply hot air to any point in the room.
The installation is made as follows:
An overly powerful fan is not required for this heat gun. It is enough to install a model for bathroom exhaust with a capacity of about 50 m 3 /h. You can use a fan from a car heater. If the room is very small, a cooler made of computer unit nutrition.
Video: solid fuel homemade gun
Features of operation and care
The owner of a heat gun should adhere to the following rules:
- Do not use the heater if there are gasoline or solvent vapors in the air. High humidity is also unacceptable for an electric gun.
- The exhaust pipe must be located no closer than 1.5 m to any kind of flammable substances.
- There should be a pause of at least 2 minutes between turning off and then turning on the heat gun.
- If the installation is equipped air filters, they should be changed or washed with soap, if possible, every 500 hours of operation.
- Fuel filters of diesel and multi-fuel heat guns should be cleaned every 2-3 months. Operation.
- The fan should be cleaned at the beginning or end of each season.
- At the end of the season, you need to clean the combustion chamber of carbon deposits using a vacuum cleaner or brush.
- Transportation of diesel and multi-fuel guns is permitted only with an empty fuel tank. If, during emptying, sediment is found in the drained fuel, the tank should be flushed with kerosene (fill in a couple of liters and shake). Without flushing, the next time you start, the fuel filter is likely to be clogged.
- It is not recommended to fill the cannon with fuel left over from last season. It is more correct to dispose of such residues and refill the installation with fresh fuel.
- The heat gun should be covered during storage. plastic film or a thick cloth so that it does not become covered with dust.
- If the gas heat gun is supposed to be powered from the gas supply network, then the connection to the pipe must be made using a special steel liner. To ensure that the gas pressure at the connection point remains constant, the connection angle must be at least 10 degrees towards the outlet.
- The gun is connected to the electrical network after connecting to the pipe.
- Installation of a liquid gas cylinder on a gas gun and its connection may only be carried out by outdoors. In this case, all joints must be lubricated with a soap solution to make sure there are no leaks (if there is one, the solution will bubble).
- When starting the heat gun, you need to set the maximum temperature on the thermostat. The desired temperature is set after the combustion chamber has warmed up and the main fan has started.
- The operation of the heat gun must necessarily end with a cooling cycle: the burner goes out (the electric heater turns off), but the fan continues to work for some time. In factory-made heaters, this mode starts automatically when the switch is set to the “off” position. If you simply remove the plug from the socket, the cooling phase will not be completed and the unit may fail as a result of overheating.
- For a homemade heat gun, the user must provide cooling manually: turn off the burner and turn off the fan only after the installation has cooled down sufficiently.
- Fuel guns can only be refueled when they are cold.
- To prevent fuel leakage, the heat gun should be placed on a flat, stable surface.
- It is allowed to store only a daily supply of fuel near the heat gun and other equipment (no closer than 0.5 m). The main stock should be stored in a separate room.
- Do not hang or block a working heat gun, especially the openings for air intake and supply. Also, you should not place things to dry on a running unit.
The effectiveness of heat guns has been proven in practice: if you need to warm up a large room or dry something, you won’t find a more suitable installation. At the same time, its design is quite simple, which allows you to make a simple model with your own hands. The main thing is to remember that such heaters, by definition, are very powerful, so when using them, especially homemade options, you should be extremely careful.